Instead of a bone folder with its sharp edge, I often use my wooden edge slicker as it has a rounded point at the end. It leaves minimal marks while pushing the crease.
Beautiful. Thank you for the lesson. I would have used one of those little triangles from the kerf cut from earlier. Less waste that way. Either way works, really.
Thanks for these videos Chuck. You are a great teacher and motivator. For me, it would be clearer if you quickly showed us the end product, and then showed us how you got there. At first, I wasn’t sure where you were going with making that D. For that D, would spraying the form with saddlelac or something similar help it to last longer as a form? Keep the videos coming 👍
Chuck, I've heard you say many, many times,... "Use a new blade". I use a box cutter quite often also, but have found that I'd rather strop the same high quality blade over and over rather than replace it with a new blade. My blade becomes sharper than factory settings and since is a meatier blade, it's very easy to strop to "scary sharp". Your thoughts?
As long as you're starting with a sharp blade, you're doing it right. I do the same, because I'm a cheap ass lol. But stropping your blade should be recommended by all. I'll strop my cheap razor blades, even if it's fresh. I find getting that smooth polished edge helps a lot with reducing drag.
Love watching these tutorials. With regard to antique gel, I only see a variety of browns and black as available colors. Are there any other colors available that have a similar application process? Thanks again for all educational videos....keep up the good work!
I love using the scraps to make the forms! Would adding resolene to the mold help? Would wrapping the mold with saran wrap help? I would guess both would help to a certain degree but eventually moisture would transfer over...
I want to tool a basketweave design on a wet molded knife pouch. What is the best way to do this without n order to keep the design and color (from the stain/dye)??
I was thinking about the same thing. I recently got my first 3d printer and, seeing this video I got to thinking about that. Especially when he mentioned the mold wearing out. Using acrylic and other plastic cutouts for forms has been a thing for a while; even metal forms. But 3d printed forms seems more convenient. This 3d printer is the most useful purchase I've made in a long time. Right up there with my woodworking and blacksmithing tools. Woodworking, blacksmithing, electronics engineering, sewing. Now I'm learning leather, glass and a few other things. There ain't much I can't make.
@@taitano12 Im new to the leather hobby but had a 3d printer for a few years and I have started trying to print out 3d patterns using Fusion 360. Moulds will be next I see some designs easier than others but if you use 360 you can insert a picture of what you are wanting to mould, calibrate the size then draw around it. A really neat feature and the software is free for non commercial use
Every time I see your videos, I want to start a new project. Have a great weekend. 🤝
10:15 using woodworking concepts in leather, love it! Nice kerf cut.
Instead of a bone folder with its sharp edge, I often use my wooden edge slicker as it has a rounded point at the end. It leaves minimal marks while pushing the crease.
Great vid, Chuck!
You could also use a modelling spoon/rubbing tool if the bone tool is too harsh/cumbersome to work with.
Beautiful. Thank you for the lesson. I would have used one of those little triangles from the kerf cut from earlier. Less waste that way. Either way works, really.
You can use PVC cement and coat that leather. It's a great hardner and water proof so your molds will last longer
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for these videos Chuck. You are a great teacher and motivator. For me, it would be clearer if you quickly showed us the end product, and then showed us how you got there. At first, I wasn’t sure where you were going with making that D. For that D, would spraying the form with saddlelac or something similar help it to last longer as a form?
Keep the videos coming 👍
Chuck, I've heard you say many, many times,... "Use a new blade". I use a box cutter quite often also, but have found that I'd rather strop the same high quality blade over and over rather than replace it with a new blade. My blade becomes sharper than factory settings and since is a meatier blade, it's very easy to strop to "scary sharp". Your thoughts?
As long as you're starting with a sharp blade, you're doing it right. I do the same, because I'm a cheap ass lol. But stropping your blade should be recommended by all. I'll strop my cheap razor blades, even if it's fresh. I find getting that smooth polished edge helps a lot with reducing drag.
I, too, strop my utility blades but I strop anything and everything.
Love watching these tutorials. With regard to antique gel, I only see a variety of browns and black as available colors. Are there any other colors available that have a similar application process? Thanks again for all educational videos....keep up the good work!
I love using the scraps to make the forms!
Would adding resolene to the mold help?
Would wrapping the mold with saran wrap help?
I would guess both would help to a certain degree but eventually moisture would transfer over...
I dipped dieda gitarstrap in pro dyi black it very stif in 7:8oz
Hey Chuck, I'm curious your opinion on dipping projects in hot wax
I want to tool a basketweave design on a wet molded knife pouch. What is the best way to do this without n order to keep the design and color (from the stain/dye)??
hey chuck, how do you deal with pain in your hands after a few hours of leatherworking?
Frequent breaks, hand exercise with various grades of recovery balls, and strength build-up through repetition. Worked for me.
My hands cramp up bad. I have to stretch and crack my knuckles, but there's a point where I just have to stop. Getting older sure sucks sometimes.
what's up chuck
Up chuck lol
I've been making my molds on a 3D printer lately .. I can add literally anything and they last forever
I was thinking about the same thing. I recently got my first 3d printer and, seeing this video I got to thinking about that. Especially when he mentioned the mold wearing out. Using acrylic and other plastic cutouts for forms has been a thing for a while; even metal forms. But 3d printed forms seems more convenient.
This 3d printer is the most useful purchase I've made in a long time. Right up there with my woodworking and blacksmithing tools. Woodworking, blacksmithing, electronics engineering, sewing. Now I'm learning leather, glass and a few other things. There ain't much I can't make.
@@taitano12 Im new to the leather hobby but had a 3d printer for a few years and I have started trying to print out 3d patterns using Fusion 360. Moulds will be next I see some designs easier than others but if you use 360 you can insert a picture of what you are wanting to mould, calibrate the size then draw around it. A really neat feature and the software is free for non commercial use