You really need to use washers with a smaller outer diameter on that input shaft, the ones you used looked as if they will be running on the outer ring of the bearing, they should only be touching the inner ring which is what rotates with the shaft. The larger washers will just be producing friction against the bearing outer and/or the spur gear, they will wear out quickly and jam the axle with swarf.
Gosh yes love the help man I have no binding issue with mine but I have noticed that wiggle a little bit in there did not think of using the washer like this I've snapped 2 brass and one steel gear in half so far and I think that probably is over with the only thing I got to say now is if this works I'm I'm spend so much time just trying to get something to brake lol love the help
The front brass gear on the axle, it's grub screw, even with locktite, keeps working free on me. I need a video with a real in depth view of how to get that gear set perfectly. It's so hard to keep a front end tight with all the flex and steering additions to wear and vibration. But, if anyone knows a surefire way to stop that front brass gear from loosening without using apoxy or jbweld, I'd greatly appreciate it. Video was very informative for the rear axle. And loving what WPL has brought to the RC world. I always felt 1/10th scale was too big for crawling, but these WPLs creations are definitely making a mark, and people are noticing. Look at Amazon. WPL is blowing up on there! Anyway, thanks again for the awesome video! 🖖
Hi Captain. Hmm i think the key is using a good hex driver instead of the L shape allen key that comes with it. Drip a small amount of the blue loctite around the grub screw, and lock it in. So far it didn't go loose on me. But once you have tighten it, leave it and let it dry. If you unscrew it after it has dried, you need to apply loctite again.
Hi Ed, Have you noticed the input shaft bearing/bushing wear allows the shaft to get an angle that can cause binding and eventually snap the input shaft under load? *Edit. You mention it at 5:20
Thank you for another great video Ed Just out of curiosity - will their be a steel gear set for the d12 from wpl?? My brass gears are great but id really like to make my rig bulletproof 😅
Best place to get these is from the official store as other companies such as banggood and such have been known for messing peoples order up on a regular basis + its just better in general to support the main page 👍
@@maxbuckley9762 I agree. I didn’t know if wpl had moved to an affiliate store in US since we buy so many of these. I’ll order when I get my B36 next I guess. Thanks!
As I understand it. They are working on a US distribution center. That will be great. A week instead of a month. Although I have received stuff in 2 weeks. Hell yeah I always try to go to the source, and these guys have been great.
@@rockwolfdesigns6384 Yea the US warehouse supposed to start last month but we were hit with chip shortage so unable to ship the goods over yet. Trying my best to speed this up.
Hi, this WPL D12 metal axel assembly set has come with enough washers right? For after binding, have to open the axel again to remove debris? Then apply grease before assembly it back?
depends which batch. u can get some here www.wpl-rc.com/products/shim-washer if it's binding, loosen the screw a bit and check again yes you may remove debris and re-lube
I ended up putting the washers between the differential housing and the drive shaft, that eliminated the play back and forth in that area and greatly increased the amount of pressure it could handle without binding. Check out "hobbywing 1080 wpl c24" the sacrosanct making videos together
He actually said remove the "paint", not pin. I saw another video he did recommending you remove the paint for a better fit. Hope you didn't remove the pins yet. I hope this helps.
You can get 'real crazy' and use a paint remover on the pumpkin {differential} covers. I use an aerosol type that I spray on, wait 5-15 minutes and the paint bubbles off. That way the metal tolerances and proper fit are restored to the cover since the red paint is thickly applied.
Your support of your product is the best feature of your company. You listened to early criticism and made adjustments. You listened. You ROCK!
My First C24-1 Should be here in a Week. I am SO EXCITED..... I am Just in Love with these machines. Just amazing. THANK YOU
You really need to use washers with a smaller outer diameter on that input shaft, the ones you used looked as if they will be running on the outer ring of the bearing, they should only be touching the inner ring which is what rotates with the shaft. The larger washers will just be producing friction against the bearing outer and/or the spur gear, they will wear out quickly and jam the axle with swarf.
yes that's why better to use the shims from WPL RC. in high speed application, using that M3 washer will cause high high heat.
Thanks Ed. I just got a c24 with the separate upgrade kit and I’m having issues with the steel gears. I’ll check the gear on the axle.
Getting ready to do my first build with my grandson. Picked up two of the flatbed trucks. Nice video thanks
great video Edward. I will be trying that out soon on my metal axles.
Gosh yes love the help man I have no binding issue with mine but I have noticed that wiggle a little bit in there did not think of using the washer like this I've snapped 2 brass and one steel gear in half so far and I think that probably is over with the only thing I got to say now is if this works I'm I'm spend so much time just trying to get something to brake lol love the help
Also I love the painted accessory kit 😁 definitely going to grab myself a few of those too
The front brass gear on the axle, it's grub screw, even with locktite, keeps working free on me. I need a video with a real in depth view of how to get that gear set perfectly. It's so hard to keep a front end tight with all the flex and steering additions to wear and vibration. But, if anyone knows a surefire way to stop that front brass gear from loosening without using apoxy or jbweld, I'd greatly appreciate it. Video was very informative for the rear axle. And loving what WPL has brought to the RC world. I always felt 1/10th scale was too big for crawling, but these WPLs creations are definitely making a mark, and people are noticing. Look at Amazon. WPL is blowing up on there! Anyway, thanks again for the awesome video! 🖖
Hi Captain. Hmm i think the key is using a good hex driver instead of the L shape allen key that comes with it. Drip a small amount of the blue loctite around the grub screw, and lock it in. So far it didn't go loose on me. But once you have tighten it, leave it and let it dry. If you unscrew it after it has dried, you need to apply loctite again.
I am having the same issue with my front brass gear grub working loose.
@@CookeCraft same here. No solution yet ☹️
Very well explained.
Same problem in my new axles, rly thanks for film
Hi Ed,
Have you noticed the input shaft bearing/bushing wear allows the shaft to get an angle that can cause binding and eventually snap the input shaft under load?
*Edit. You mention it at 5:20
Yeap that's the cause of it
Thanks i was having this issue great work 😉
Thank you for another great video Ed
Just out of curiosity - will their be a steel gear set for the d12 from wpl??
My brass gears are great but id really like to make my rig bulletproof 😅
nope :-D
not at the moment
Great video!! Very help full!!
thank u
Who’s selling the axle bearing kits now you used? In us.. is there official wpl distributor?
Best place to get these is from the official store as other companies such as banggood and such have been known for messing peoples order up on a regular basis + its just better in general to support the main page 👍
@@maxbuckley9762 I agree. I didn’t know if wpl had moved to an affiliate store in US since we buy so many of these. I’ll order when I get my B36 next I guess. Thanks!
As I understand it. They are working on a US distribution center. That will be great. A week instead of a month. Although I have received stuff in 2 weeks. Hell yeah I always try to go to the source, and these guys have been great.
@@rockwolfdesigns6384 Yea the US warehouse supposed to start last month but we were hit with chip shortage so unable to ship the goods over yet. Trying my best to speed this up.
you may get them here :-）
www.wpl-rc.com/collections/metal-upgrade
Hello, nice video. I got one extra questions, does these metal diff gears suits for FMS atlas 6x6? Thank you for reply.
Hi. I don't think so.
Every time i lock tite a grub screw it strips when i try and take it off again🤦♂️
By any chance can I get axle gear set with inner diameter of 5mm ?.... (Main Shaft Gear)
is there any difference in gear rations? brass one and metal one.
If not is there any other gear ration exept original?
Regards,
Same gear ratio
@@EdwardChew sux, it could run faster with modified gears.
Hi, this WPL D12 metal axel assembly set has come with enough washers right?
For after binding, have to open the axel again to remove debris? Then apply grease before assembly it back?
depends which batch. u can get some here
www.wpl-rc.com/products/shim-washer
if it's binding, loosen the screw a bit and check again
yes you may remove debris and re-lube
@@EdwardChew Hi Edward, ask you, D12, C24, E1 batteries can interchangeable mix use??
Seems all are the same 2 x AA?
@@fwfefrtefdv4719 Yes. they are not power hungry
Those are 14500 batteries, not AA.
@@EdwardChew Noted and thanks bro!
I ended up putting the washers between the differential housing and the drive shaft, that eliminated the play back and forth in that area and greatly increased the amount of pressure it could handle without binding. Check out "hobbywing 1080 wpl c24" the sacrosanct making videos together
Hi Edward, whats is the thickness of the shim?
www.wpl-rc.com/products/shim-washer
What's the reason for snapping off the pins on the axle cover ?
He actually said remove the "paint", not pin. I saw another video he did recommending you remove the paint for a better fit. Hope you didn't remove the pins yet. I hope this helps.
@@rockwolfdesigns6384 hahaha heheeh yeahhh
Remove the "paint" off the 4 studs otherwise it's hard to slot it in
Ahhh ok makes more sense haha
no I haven't removed the pins when putting them together in the past, all good. 👍
You can get 'real crazy' and use a paint remover on the pumpkin {differential} covers. I use an aerosol type that I spray on, wait 5-15 minutes and the paint bubbles off. That way the metal tolerances and proper fit are restored to the cover since the red paint is thickly applied.
Good video 🙂🙂👍👍👍👍
nice
what is the axle shaft diameter?
3mm
@@EdwardChew thankyou
GOOD, common sense solution! 👌 Very useful.
On my Channel, 97% of viewers are NOT subscribed 😑
Show