Being in Arizona, I see 4 and 5 ton systems every day and very few 2 ton systems. This was a great video though, thank you for spending the time to make this amazing content! The technician community thanks you! 🤝
The good thing is you have everything you need in your phone. Once you can look at a schematic and understand all the symbols and flows and know the sequence of operation ( more complex systems) may require a manual. Even a factory tech needs manuals sometimes on as built systems. It takes time and dedication to learn and understand everything and nobody knows everything. The HVAC& R industry is now much more than a home split system to a 5-10 ton rooftop unit. It’s comms and logic which come in many forms and sizes. Asking for help when you don’t want to because of pride. Every tech wants to be the best or should, but also be humble.
I agree. I don't use continuity that much and like to go off of the Ohms so that you can catch little problems that you might miss if you just went off of the audible cue. Maybe a nice use for it is when a compressor is overheated and you want to cool it down to get the safety to reset you can connect alligator clips in continuity mode and once you hear the beep you know it's finally reset. Thanks for the video!
The continuity beeping sound is good if you're trying to find a short to ground, You can go quickly through a system and listen for tone. Also, going through a circuit that has many points to see if it's open or closed.
The beep test is very useful when you are simply trying to find whether a switch is open or closed, or if you have a broken wire somewhere or something is plugged in to the wrong place or not fully seated. Also useful when tracing wires. In other words, sometimes a yes or no is more important than how much. This is the whole reason behind digital electronics and communications. On or off is easier and more reliable than precisely measuring the voltage.
@@shawnsgdoesn't seem like you read his comment. Sometimes you might not be directly in front of your multimeter testing the wire and a beep can tell you if the line is O.L or 0.0
Thanks for an excellent video . I knew all of that , but this would be very useful for a lot of guys I used to work with , they didn’t come from an electrical background.
This is imperative to understand especially when testing heating elements, and how you can aid in determining the proper BTU output of electric heat as the elements having resistance outside of its spec will lead to issues with high utility bills and or poor heating due to tripping limit switches.
Absolutely, understanding the proper functioning and testing of heating elements is crucial in HVAC work. Testing their resistance and ensuring they are within specifications is essential to avoid issues like high utility bills or poor heating performance due to limit switch tripping. It's important to pay attention to these details to ensure efficient and reliable heating performance for your customers.
My Fluke 116 has a “Auto V Lo Z” setting. It was useful recently in finding a faulty thermostat circuit board issue. Checking with regular voltage setting would show various AC voltages due to high resistance circuit board faults in the thermostat. Testing with the “Auto V LoZ” setting would shunt the noisy voltages on the line and the circuit would work normally. Maybe a video on that feature and the limitations of high impedance digital meters and their susceptibility to line noise might be helpful.
Thank you for saying something about standard wire resistance. While most applications will not have a run long enough to create significant resistance and voltage drop, there are going to be cases in which it does occur. There is even more resistance with stranded and thinner gauge wire. 0.0 ohms is perfect world resistance on short wire runs even.
There is a lot of this that is basic electricity and electronics theory that without some knowledge in that area first can be very difficult to understand. Even though someone might think they do. The condition described might be understood, but the underlying hows and whys that will enable deeper understanding in order to troubleshoot effectively are not. Not a criticism of your excellent video, just acknowledging the reality of what truly understanding this process in order to accurately and quickly find faults will require.
hey can you explain a couple things further: 1) what is it about corrosion and melted wires (I'm assuming a different mechanism for each) that causes an increase in ohms and resistance 2) shouldn't even simple wires have resistance? Is anything really zero resistance? You said the door switch thing for the gas furnace should have 0 and those simple wires also should have 0. 3) What is so bad about some device having more resistance than it "should"? Can you explain a bit more in detail how more resistance leads to higher current and heat? This completely confuses me. I thought the higher the resistance, the more the current is being resisted and thus the less current gets thru! 4) Last question: What exactly does that door switch do?
Superheat, typically 12-15F taken near the compressor is important to make sure your not bringing any liquid back into the compressor (low superheat) but is not too high which will cause the compressor to run too warm or hot. Of course the proper charge and line sizes need to be correct.
Have this question, always wanted to ask, thank you much: when measuring superheat, why taking the pressure/temperature at suction line and subtract from the vapor line copper's temperature? Pressure at vapor line yields the temperature of the vapor at that location, not the saturation of the liquid/vapor inside the evaporator coil..also what is temperature of the copper line? what does it represent? I thought the true superheat would be the temperature of the wet bulb minus saturation temperature, which is the temperature of the mixture liquid/vapor inside the evaporator coil because this superheat number represents how much heat/enthalpy is absorbed and removed by the refrigerant in the coil...this superheat has nothing to do with vapor temperature at the suction (derived from the measured pressure) or the temperature of the copper pipe...Appreciate if the host or someone can address. Thank you much.
Wrong video, i know. But, i was curious :Why in the video showing the vacuuming process of a system did you use 3 appion valve core tools instead of 2?
Need advice. I have a unit that’s not blowing cold. The pressures look normal. The compressor is fine. Last guy replaced the fan motor. I said but the suction line still isn’t cold to the touch it should get cold to the touch within seconds. He said since it’s so hot it’ll take a while to start cooling. I knew better but still paid him and he won’t return my call. I knew better the suction line always gets cold within SECONDS of the condenser coming on. If I turn the unit off for a while and then turn it on, the suction line gets cold for about 1 minute but then that’s it, it goes back to ambient temperature and inside the it’s not blowing cold. I’ve now had 3 different people look at this unit. No one knows what’s going on. I’m already out $500. Any thoughts? Bad TXV?
Hello, I am subscribed to the Channel, but I understand a lot of English, we hope that the translation will be done into Arabic so that we benefit from the videos with thanks and appreciation
I watched a video from this channel about heat strip circuits and one video from grayfurnaceman about changing a sequencer to a contactor about 20 times until I figured it out. Every time I watched, something clicked in my brain and I made a discovery. Repetition is key. Now I happily replace all my sequencers with contactors when working with electric heat.
As an electrician, I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the mm continuity function plays a vital role in determining certain electrical and communication shorts. All electrical and communication systems are NOT equal and thus that feature has its place from time to time; otherwise, why would mm manufacturers bother designing it into their products?
Contractor for 40 years stop just stop trying to give tutorials to average American citizens tutorials or no tutorials my experience after 40 years if you don’t have the skills for mechanics and troubleshooting you will probably fail at repair attempt and likely cause more problems. Stick to a blog where people have some experience.
Your channel is extremely helpful to many young techs trying to make it. Salute to you good sir 🙏 You're a great teacher
I used to be in awe when I watched guys trace voltage and ohm things out. I still think about that whenever I'm doing it. Love this trade
Being in Arizona, I see 4 and 5 ton systems every day and very few 2 ton systems. This was a great video though, thank you for spending the time to make this amazing content! The technician community thanks you! 🤝
This is Very Critical to learn and know about electrical wires and Connections..... Thank you Teacher 👍
Im gonna send this to the new guy.
@daniel343ful I am the new guy.
I’m a new guy as well started in commercial ac as a helper I become a pm tech in October and I’ve been trying to learn as fast as possible
My thoughts too
😂
@@tiino4690same lol
Super helpful. I need a big playlist of electrical help videos. It slips out of my mind from time to time how all these functions work.
The good thing is you have everything you need in your phone. Once you can look at a schematic and understand all the symbols and flows and know the sequence of operation ( more complex systems) may require a manual. Even a factory tech needs manuals sometimes on as built systems. It takes time and dedication to learn and understand everything and nobody knows everything. The HVAC& R industry is now much more than a home split system to a 5-10 ton rooftop unit. It’s comms and logic which come in many forms and sizes. Asking for help when you don’t want to because of pride. Every tech wants to be the best or should, but also be humble.
I agree. I don't use continuity that much and like to go off of the Ohms so that you can catch little problems that you might miss if you just went off of the audible cue.
Maybe a nice use for it is when a compressor is overheated and you want to cool it down to get the safety to reset you can connect alligator clips in continuity mode and once you hear the beep you know it's finally reset.
Thanks for the video!
That's the exact use I have for the audible circuit tester.
Exactly what I use the continuity setting for. Just showed another tech that last week.
The continuity beeping sound is good if you're trying to find a short to ground, You can go quickly through a system and listen for tone. Also, going through a circuit that has many points to see if it's open or closed.
yep
Wow, I’ve been doing it the wrong way this explains a lot. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching, glad I could help!
Oh I always use the continuity function because I didn't know any better, thanks for correcting that!
No worries!
The beep test is very useful when you are simply trying to find whether a switch is open or closed, or if you have a broken wire somewhere or something is plugged in to the wrong place or not fully seated. Also useful when tracing wires. In other words, sometimes a yes or no is more important than how much. This is the whole reason behind digital electronics and communications. On or off is easier and more reliable than precisely measuring the voltage.
It doesn't seem like you watched the video.
@@shawnsg why is that?
@@shawnsgdoesn't seem like you read his comment. Sometimes you might not be directly in front of your multimeter testing the wire and a beep can tell you if the line is O.L or 0.0
Great information! When I try to teach other techs they scratch their heads! They’re thinking open or closed only.
👍Awesome explanation and demo! Thank you!
Excellent session.
Waiting for more videos
Thank you.
como siempre ,excelente en calidad y enseñanza ,saludos desde córdoba argentina ¡¡¡¡¡
Great video and a solid explanation.
Thanks for an excellent video . I knew all of that , but this would be very useful for a lot of guys I used to work with , they didn’t come from an electrical background.
Glad it was helpful!
Simples ...😊 plain English description. Subscribed 👍
Good explanation 💡
This is imperative to understand especially when testing heating elements, and how you can aid in determining the proper BTU output of electric heat as the elements having resistance outside of its spec will lead to issues with high utility bills and or poor heating due to tripping limit switches.
Absolutely, understanding the proper functioning and testing of heating elements is crucial in HVAC work. Testing their resistance and ensuring they are within specifications is essential to avoid issues like high utility bills or poor heating performance due to limit switch tripping. It's important to pay attention to these details to ensure efficient and reliable heating performance for your customers.
@@acservicetechchannel Not to mention fires.
My Fluke 116 has a “Auto V Lo Z” setting.
It was useful recently in finding a faulty thermostat circuit board issue. Checking with regular voltage setting would show various AC voltages due to high resistance circuit board faults in the thermostat.
Testing with the “Auto V LoZ” setting would shunt the noisy voltages on the line and the circuit would work normally.
Maybe a video on that feature and the limitations of high impedance digital meters and their susceptibility to line noise might be helpful.
@3:12 me on the field shaking around seeing random numbers on the screen 😆 🤣
This was an amazing video! Thank you for posting!
Sometimes you just want to ring something out though checking for the right wire
awesome Craig!!!! thank you for sharing I love the book! and all your videos.
My pleasure!
18AWG solid copper wire has a resistance of .651 ohms per 100 ‘. FYI
Thank you for saying something about standard wire resistance. While most applications will not have a run long enough to create significant resistance and voltage drop, there are going to be cases in which it does occur. There is even more resistance with stranded and thinner gauge wire. 0.0 ohms is perfect world resistance on short wire runs even.
Great info
Another excellent session
thanks for the tips very helpful with the understanding between the two will put it to use
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid
Thank you!
You're welcome!
There is a lot of this that is basic electricity and electronics theory that without some knowledge in that area first can be very difficult to understand. Even though someone might think they do. The condition described might be understood, but the underlying hows and whys that will enable deeper understanding in order to troubleshoot effectively are not.
Not a criticism of your excellent video, just acknowledging the reality of what truly understanding this process in order to accurately and quickly find faults will require.
Loved your videos really helpful.
Excellent video
Very niece sir ji 😘🇮🇳
Good ⚡️⚡️⚡️Stuff
one other question: what's the difference between a thermal limit switch and a "low/high limit thermostat" ?
Thank you helps me alot
Nice channel any videos on automotive air condition?
hey can you explain a couple things further:
1)
what is it about corrosion and melted wires (I'm assuming a different mechanism for each) that causes an increase in ohms and resistance
2)
shouldn't even simple wires have resistance? Is anything really zero resistance? You said the door switch thing for the gas furnace should have 0 and those simple wires also should have 0.
3)
What is so bad about some device having more resistance than it "should"? Can you explain a bit more in detail how more resistance leads to higher current and heat? This completely confuses me. I thought the higher the resistance, the more the current is being resisted and thus the less current gets thru!
4)
Last question: What exactly does that door switch do?
Can you make a video about refrigerant heat exchanger , please?
thank you so so much!!!
As always I like your videos nice videos
Glad you like them!
Thank you!!!!!!!
I might add that the meter or a better meter maybe measuring the OHM value of the probles also and that's why you may not be getting Zero Ohms!
What is the “NCV” mode on meter?
That was awesome
Superheat, typically 12-15F taken near the compressor is important to make sure your not bringing any liquid back into the compressor (low superheat) but is not too high which will cause the compressor to run too warm or hot. Of course the proper charge and line sizes need to be correct.
Have this question, always wanted to ask, thank you much: when measuring superheat, why taking the pressure/temperature at suction line and subtract from the vapor line copper's temperature? Pressure at vapor line yields the temperature of the vapor at that location, not the saturation of the liquid/vapor inside the evaporator coil..also what is temperature of the copper line? what does it represent? I thought the true superheat would be the temperature of the wet bulb minus saturation temperature, which is the temperature of the mixture liquid/vapor inside the evaporator coil because this superheat number represents how much heat/enthalpy is absorbed and removed by the refrigerant in the coil...this superheat has nothing to do with vapor temperature at the suction (derived from the measured pressure) or the temperature of the copper pipe...Appreciate if the host or someone can address. Thank you much.
Wrong video, i know.
But, i was curious :Why in the video showing the vacuuming process of a system did you use 3 appion valve core tools instead of 2?
You guys recommend that multimeter for someone starting out in HVAC? Or is there a better brand
Need advice. I have a unit that’s not blowing cold. The pressures look normal. The compressor is fine. Last guy replaced the fan motor. I said but the suction line still isn’t cold to the touch it should get cold to the touch within seconds. He said since it’s so hot it’ll take a while to start cooling. I knew better but still paid him and he won’t return my call. I knew better the suction line always gets cold within SECONDS of the condenser coming on. If I turn the unit off for a while and then turn it on, the suction line gets cold for about 1 minute but then that’s it, it goes back to ambient temperature and inside the it’s not blowing cold. I’ve now had 3 different people look at this unit. No one knows what’s going on. I’m already out $500. Any thoughts? Bad TXV?
Hello, I am subscribed to the Channel, but I understand a lot of English, we hope that the translation will be done into Arabic so that we benefit from the videos with thanks and appreciation
I didn’t grasp anything but still watched
Now watch it again, it's all about repetition
I watched a video from this channel about heat strip circuits and one video from grayfurnaceman about changing a sequencer to a contactor about 20 times until I figured it out. Every time I watched, something clicked in my brain and I made a discovery. Repetition is key. Now I happily replace all my sequencers with contactors when working with electric heat.
AC SERVICE TECH, make a YT lesson about the top 20 most common problems in HVAC. Testing the start up capacitor and condenser capacitor.
As an electrician, I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the mm continuity function plays a vital role in determining certain electrical and communication shorts. All electrical and communication systems are NOT equal and thus that feature has its place from time to time; otherwise, why would mm manufacturers bother designing it into their products?
✊🏽✊🏽✊🏽
Wow
Martinez Brian Martinez Deborah Thomas Jose
More than happy to be the 250th like.
Hernandez Karen Thompson Mary Lopez Linda
Corrosion Number 1 Connection Killer
Rodriguez Donald Davis Helen Robinson Paul
Wilson Anna Gonzalez Michelle Thompson Edward
10x 🧠
Moore Melissa Taylor Karen Brown Brenda
Walker Richard Jackson Scott Hall Sarah
'Promo sm' 😍
Contractor for 40 years stop just stop trying to give tutorials to average American citizens tutorials or no tutorials my experience after 40 years if you don’t have the skills for mechanics and troubleshooting you will probably fail at repair attempt and likely cause more problems. Stick to a blog where people have some experience.
Thanks for another great video. It would be nice to show a new contactor and how the resistance is 0 ohms.
Walker Donna Jackson Angela Young Timothy
Sharing to Facebook.
I think I knew most of that.
👌