You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Always use the five cut method for squaring your sled. This puts no reliance on the accuracy of any other tool. And that double sided tape means that when you adjust the end of the fence back a bit you end up with a curved fence. Get rid of the tape and use one screw each end. Now when you adjust, the fence pivots around one screw, and remains straight. Once you have got it straight with the five cuts, put all the screws in.
the whole intro is about how important it is to have accurate cross cuts, then he uses a combo square to declare his cut "perfectly square". no, honey. you have error there. you just can't see it by laying a combo square down next to it. the 5 cut method magnifies your error so you can see and measure it accurately, and then adjust the sled accurately. why make a whole video teaching people to make a cross-cut sled, and then not bother to use the 5 cut method? it's just so substandard.
Nice information and amazing knowledge, I like it, Although I am not a professional woodworker, I am a retired school, Teacher, But ,I am very fond of woodworking and my age is 60 years, I want to make something but I have no plan, no idea, no guidance , I hope you will help me in this context and will be guide me, It will be great honour for me, Thank you for providing me the best knowledge and beautiful video, GOD BLESS YOU, ZAFAR from Quetta Pakistan
@Zafar Iqbal Greetings from Egypt! There are thousands of Woodworking videos on RUclips-- for beginners and experts. Type in " Woodworking basics " and "Woodworking safety"....Good luck.
Thankyou so much for making a very clear and concise video , talked through at a sensible speed that allows people to understand and make good use of . There are so many ridiculous ,, look at me ,,, videos on here on this subject with hyper crazy loons screaming away trying to talk over some bloody rock music ,, what the hell is that all about ? I’m gonna sub ,, Thankyou so much once again
i'm glad I read the comment section before I asked "why only one runner?"----- great instruction! and after watching several others, this is the one I saved to to build my sled(tweak it if I want) thank you
I like your videos from Woodsmith I just write a letter to you guys and send to you happy holidays and happy New Years to Woodsmith have a great day my name is Terell Jones
I am building this project. TIP! Check your saws factory fence for square first. Then cut the dust rabbet before you move the saws factory fence in for sled assembly using double sided tape. Video shows assembly of the sled base to the runner and the sled fence to the sled. Its at this point the rabbet comes up in the video. Make all your table saw cuts first. Otherwise you have to realign the table saw fence when assembling. If using an older saw, your saws factory fence could be a 64th or 32nd off making the new sled crooked.
This is an excellent suggestion... I would recommend not only regularly checking your fence alignment but also your blade to table alignment, and miter gauge setup. I've been burned a few times on assuming everything was setup properly because things can shift from time to time - especially in our shop when we have lots of different people using the same tools. :(
@@PRRGG1 - Oh no... about a year ago I was cutting a bunch of parts on the table saw for a dresser and it wasn't until I was about done that I realized the blade was tilted about 1 or 2 degrees off 90. NOOOOOOOO!!!! :(
Need to back up and add a step. Make sure that your fence is parallel to the blade. If it isn't then your sled fence won't be square to the blade. Using the blade to square the sled fence is another option.
For my long sled I attached the end near the blade with a screw then set a dowel into the slide at what my square said was 90. Then using feeler gauges I shimmed out my fence gradually until it cut perfect on a 5 cut
Great video but there are better ways to square the fence. For example using a screw as a pivot for initially attaching the fence then clamp/screw the other end and test using the 5 cut method or the dial indicator method or the flip over method. Make any adjustments, drill new holes and screw so the fence wont reset in an old position and test again.
Square the fence to the blade using the '5 cut method' as described by William NG using feeler gauge is a a very accurate method. I like the extended table.
I used Ng's method to make a sled that cuts to within 0.001" over a 22 inch cut! It makes perfect square cuts every time. Combine this with his miter jig and you're set for perfect 45's too. Also, King's Fine Woodworking made a pretty sweet sled using Ng's method
Mil gracias. Cabal eso estaba haciendo y subí a buscar algunos modelos. Encontré el de ustedes y ¡¡¡vaya sorpresa!!!, planos gratuitos. Dios los bendiga por ser tan generosos al compartir sus experiencias y permitir que otros podamos usar sus diseños. Un saludo desde Guatemala.
I love what you guys do. Now I have a cheap Harbor Freight table saw because at this time I can't afford a better one. Now do you have an idea how to make a crosscut sled when its a partly a T grove?
While I’ve never built a sled Jeffrey, I don’t think the T groove will matter. I would use a calipers to get the proper width of the miter gauge slot. You might take several measurements along the length of the slot. I think when I build mine that’s what I will do. I will make a 2nd hardwood runner for the opposite side of the blade. Thank you & Merry Christmas
This is all good for those that have the expensive equipment shown here. I have just beginning table saw. So can you make one of these for the cheaper table saws?
Absolutely. A sled lkke this can help make that beginner saw cut like a more expensive product. Take your time to make the sled and it will help in the long run.
It does not matter what table saw you have. You could be rocking an overly priced SawStop or a cheap pile of junk from Harbor Freight. The sled making process is the same for all table saws. 🍻
Even though you couldnt be any less entertaining to watch, for You Tube. I do appreciate the tutorial. And can see that you care very much about the craft, There is about 1000 videos on the subject. After watching some of them I still had questions. being a scenic carpenter for 25 years noticed that if leave things out an inexperienced weekend warrior will be in the hospital by Monday..
Good sled. But probably not the last one you will ever build. There is always something else you will want the sled to do. For instance you might want a clamp to hold the workpiece in place so your fingers stay clear of the blade.🙂🙂
I think squaring the fence needs a separate video. It's not clear how to make that adjustment and I tried to do with screws, not so easy. I'd also recommend a stopper screw on the hardwood rail to stop the sled once its past last bridge. I saw that in another DIY video by Sergio
newbie question here (I just bought a table saw 4 days ago, so really new to this whole thing). You have the stop block on the left side of the blade, which seems wrong to me. Your sled has all that room on the left side to take longer stock, but then you defeat that by putting a stop on that side. What am I missing here?
Sam Young when using your sled for longer boards the tail off piece tends to break off at the end of a cut. To prevent that breaking you need a support sled identical to yours only without a fence on the other side of the blade. The support sled just sits there "dead" and keeps the tail off piece from cracking at the end of the cut.
Just subscribed and got the free plans for the bigger sled. It's a good one and easy to make and the instructions are easy to follow. Nice handy hints like double sided tape and also the horizontal piece of wood on the back bridge to protect fingers. Especially good for me ! made a nice tight square cut with it too ! Thank you
We’ve found that it can be a little tricky to get two runners perfectly located and parallel to each other. If this isn’t done correctly the sled will bind and won’t slide smoothly... Using just one runner is simpler and seems to work fine, but to each their own. Thanks for watching.
Like the poster below, I would be concerned that the long fence in the second sled would (1) not be perfectly straight to begin with and/or (2) would warp over time. What type of wood did you use for it and what process did you go through to make sure it was perfectly straight ,,, at least first?
Those are fair concerns... it looks like the fence is a piece of 3/4" thick hard maple. I'm sure we picked a piece that was pretty flat and stable to begin with and then jointed one face to flatten it and then planed it to thickness. We have a fairly climate controlled shop that doesn't have large swings in temperature or humidity that would contribute to future warping, but that is definitely something to check from time to time.
Three points of concern. First of all, the square used for "squaring" is small, leading to inaccuracies proportional to the length of the piece. Secondly, which is intended to offset the problems of point 1, the fence is screwed in, but adjustable for fine tuning. This means that the screws could loosen over time causing aberrations to increase with use. The fence is never glued or otherwise permanently fastened. Thirdly, using the blade as a reference could prove to be inaccurate if the blade were changed out for another with a different kerf width. As a final note, mention ought to be made of the materials used so that properties inherent, such as warping over time, do not become an issue. Other than these points, that caught my attention, I like the creativity and forward thinking that leads to greater versatility, which we could all use. Good job!
Thanks for the input. You could certainly use a larger square if you had one but the square is just used a reference to get you started. You should really make some test cuts and check your test pieces for square with a precision tool. As for the adjustment screws, you make a good point... Once you have the fence adjusted for square, it would probably be helpful to "pin" the fence in place with a couple countersunk screws to keep it from moving over time. Lastly, although most blade kerfs are approximately 1/8", it is possible to changing to a thin kerf blade would affect the accuracy of the measuring tape on the flip stop system, but if you were going to use a thinner kerf blade consistently then you could just adjust the position of the cross-hair indicator to reflect the change.
Actually the biggest issue with this design is none of what you said..It's the simple fact the Sled bridges aren't tall enough to accommodate the full height of the table blade for thicker workpieces. Plan calls for a 3 inch height which is not tall enough. The sled needs a rise in the middle of the bridge cut on a band saw. Otherwise the design is fine. This isn't the first Woodsmith plan I was easily able to poke holes in, I tried the dado sled they have and it was an awful plan.
jc51373 - You can make the bridges as tall as you’d like for your applications. No design is perfect for every application, but I’ve been using this sled for quite a while and never had a problem. But I am cutting mostly 3/4” to 1” thick material typically. We also use this sled: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/ultimate-crosscut-sled/ in our production shop quite a bit. It might address some of your concerns, but feel free to critique it as well.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine yes you can't really cut anything over that thickness (1 1/4" at most) with this design unless you want the hand guard to be sacrificial, which is not supposed to be, even then it's not more than 1 1/2" max. It would have been a good callout in the plan or your video because I went and bought all the material, cut them down to the plans dimensions and it wasn't until assembly i realized that limitation of this sled, which is a big limitation. Now I have to redo the bridges. Also your video doesn't cover how you aligned the holes for the fence on the sled base that would be helpful to know as well.
Excellent points. Someone else in the comments here also mentioned how, in this design, the aluminum extrusion for the flip stop track dips down on the back on the back of the fence. So if you have a saw stop that is something to consider, as well on the depth of cut limitation.
Phil, I enjoy your videos.There very complete and I learn a lot. Thanks. I had a question, what kind of double face tape do you use. What is the brand name and where can I buy it. Nothing I’ve seen seems to match what you use. Thanks very much. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. I believe the brand of double-sided tape we use is from Intertape Polymer Group (IPG). We've had pretty good luck with that brand. Here is one source: amzn.to/2D8oGBB Here is a video we shot with more info: ruclips.net/video/kZbX4Sq5YIg/видео.html
I have a question on why you use the pan head screw instead of a undercut or countersunk head wood screw is it because he shank doesn't provide any contact without threads?
Good question... we used panhead screws in an over-sized shank hole so you could loosen them and make fine adjustments to get the fence set. If you use countersunk screws you are really locking it in to that position, and it makes it harder to make adjustments later.
Just wondering why you don't dado the base bottom for the runner instead of the tape? A 1/8 in deep dado will lift the runner some and it assures both he runner and base are straight. Also, a framing square and the fence should aline the fence with the base and blade.
A dado in the base would sure work. You would then make the runner slightly thicker - Something Ill keep in mind next time we're working on a sled. I usually tend to stay away from framing squares - I drop mine too much and I don't trust they're terribly square (although, they're square enough for framing)!
Woodsmith Thanks Bunches for the reply! Though I can't write out the details, there is away to check a framing square and even a way to adjust it with a center punch. My experience is the longer the square, to a certain extent, the better, more square you'll be.
@@dougsprojects6431 That is almost a myth. IF you know what you're doing and have the right kind of punch and a solid place to strike it (like an anvil) you can expand/contract a square that way - but unless you have a machined square to begin with - it's a waste of time if you're looking for a reference surface. All of the steel or aluminum squares sold at home centers are stamped out - they're not machined. The blades/tongues are not truly straight, and they vary in width by as much as 20-30 thou. along their length, and they're not truly all in the same plane. If you don't know what you're doing you're just as apt to knock your square out of plane as you are to open or close the angle. Bottom line, if machinist accuracy matters then use a machined tool (like Woodpecker stuff) - but those are $200 squares not $20 squares.
I wonder if you were lucky to get it perfectly square first time? If you make a cut then reverse the test piece and make a second cut about 1/4" (6mm) in the measure the offcut it will show double the error and make adjustment of the fence easier.
We are ALWAYS lucky enough to get it perfect on the first try here in the Woodsmith Shop. ;) Yes, typically you'll probably have some adjustment back and forth before it's perfect.
Norman Bott I did that and spent a lot of time getting rid of the last thou’ error. So I screwed a small block to the base of the sled with a screw into the near horizontal which allowed me to micro adjust. Being a retired aircraft engineer does not help woodworking. Does anyone need a lot of small wood strips which are parallel apart from an error
When and if you have to fine tune the fence after tests cut for true cut. If you loosen screws to make adjustment and retighten doesn't that make it go back to same position or do you re-drill the holes?
We used panhead screws and washers in oversized, counterbored holes so you can make fine adjustments and tighten them done without returning to the original position.
That is correct. If you use the Kreg flip stop system, it limits the height of the fence. If you choose not to use the Kreg flip stop you could really make the back fence as tall as you want.
I don't understand how loosening the screws and then tightening them back up change the angle? Wouldn't the board be back to the same angle as before? Thanks
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine The problem I have using one on my DeWalt DW744 is the blade comes up too far to the front which either limits the size of the board that can be cut or balancing the sled that is off the table saw bed. Going to try to build one with a framework to stop a lot of the tilting. BTW great detailed video!
The sled in part 3 looks like the riving knife nor a splitter is used. I have some thin kerf blades that the riving knife is too thick to use with my table saw. It looks like I need this sled if I want to use my thinner kerf blades, than I can with my riving knife.
We’ve done sleds with either one or two runners in the past. Two runners might give a little more stability but it adds another layer of difficulty to get both runners in the correct position and perfectly parallel. One runner seems to work fine and is a little easier to execute.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Just curious but if the runners fit snugly in their slots, how is it tough to get both runners "in the correct position and perfectly parallel? I'm not trying to be a troll, just don't understand the response.
Captain G - no, it is a good question. It really isn’t an overly complicated process, it’s just another step that we felt wasn’t necessary for this introductory sled. We have put 2 runners on other sleds we’ve made, and they have worked fine too. I think this would actually be a good topic of discussion for a future video. Thanks.
Don’t get the part “loosened the screws and moved the fence just a little bit and tightened”. It is not like the screw holes change location. How you can make an adjustment like that?
The screw holes in the sled base are over-sized (1/4" I think) so there is room around the shank of the screw to make minor adjustments and then tighten the screw back down. We used a panhead screw with a washer to secure the fence. I believe this is shown in more detail in the plans. Good question though... thanks for asking.
We used panhead screws in oversized, counterbored holes so there is a little room for adjustment. You can loosen the screw and move it over within that oversized hole and tighten it back down.
The high humidity where I live demands the use of something other than wood for the runners. Even hardwood runners swell up a lot during summer months.
Yeah, I would actually recommend upgrading to an aluminum runner like the Kreg KMS7303 (seen here: amzn.to/2CWqxIn) We've used it on some of other sleds like this one: ruclips.net/video/KWyLrDZAW-c/видео.html
I don’t know if you get any more stability with 2 runners versus one, but I find that it’s harder to set up 2 runners because if they aren’t perfectly placed and parallel the sled will bind and not slide smoothly.
sum1sw - we’ve found that it can be a little tricky to get two runners perfectly located and parallel to each other. If this isn’t done correctly the sled will bind and won’t slide smoothly. Using just one runner seems to work fine.
I don’t know if you get any more stability with 2 runners versus one, but I find that it’s harder to set up 2 runners because if they aren’t perfectly placed and parallel the sled will bind and not slide smoothly.
The plans for the larger sled seem to have a problem. It shows a distance of 12" from the right edge to the blade slot. The width of the bridges is 12". But the distance shown from the right edge of the bed to the right side of the far bridge is 8". That would put the blade slot only 4" into the bridge, when it clearly shows (in the instructions and video) that the blade slot goes through the center of the bridge. I'm going to assume that the 8" measurement shown is wrong, and should say 6" instead?
Links to the free downloadable plans for the table saw sleds and for the products used in this video can be found in the description above.
Woodsmith download table saw sled
Woodworkers sled
I COULD NOT FIND THE DOWNLOADABLE CLICK AND HENCE REGRET
Shahnaz Pardeshi - www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/table-saw-sleds/
is there a coupon code or something? when I click the link it wants $50 for the free plans
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I am a 69 year old beginner and have found my sled. Thank You. 👍✌️😃🤙🇺🇸
I watched so many video about sleds. This the only one! Simply great. No frills, just what you need
Thanks!
Just bought a table saw, I like your simple but effective cross cut sleds and clear uncomplicated instructions, thank you 👍🏻
Glad it helped
HPDE runners reduce friction . great video , thanks
Great suggestion! Thanks!
Always use the five cut method for squaring your sled. This puts no reliance on the accuracy of any other tool. And that double sided tape means that when you adjust the end of the fence back a bit you end up with a curved fence. Get rid of the tape and use one screw each end. Now when you adjust, the fence pivots around one screw, and remains straight. Once you have got it straight with the five cuts, put all the screws in.
donepearce this guys method of making the sled square to the saw blade is hit and miss.
the whole intro is about how important it is to have accurate cross cuts, then he uses a combo square to declare his cut "perfectly square". no, honey. you have error there. you just can't see it by laying a combo square down next to it. the 5 cut method magnifies your error so you can see and measure it accurately, and then adjust the sled accurately. why make a whole video teaching people to make a cross-cut sled, and then not bother to use the 5 cut method? it's just so substandard.
@@RainDog222222 Time to get the digital caliper out. William gets em to about one thou. And his method is the best out here.
He can't fix it now anyway because he glued the fence down with tape.
Good video. Went into good detail about a lot of how everything needs to be made but would have liked to hear more of how to adjust the back fence.
One of the best instructional videos on RUclips. Thanks for sharing it. You can bet I've subscribed ! !
Thanks!
Fantastic, during this crisis you are giving me hope.
Wonderful!
the most simplest sled in the market if I say so my self
thnx a bunch
Thanks for the compliment! :)
Nice information and amazing knowledge, I like it, Although I am not a professional woodworker, I am a retired
school, Teacher, But ,I am very fond of woodworking and my age is 60 years,
I want to make something but I have no
plan, no idea, no guidance , I hope you will help me in this context and will be guide me, It will be great honour for me,
Thank you for providing me the best knowledge and beautiful video, GOD BLESS YOU, ZAFAR from Quetta Pakistan
@Zafar Iqbal
Greetings from Egypt! There are thousands of Woodworking videos on RUclips-- for beginners and experts. Type in " Woodworking basics " and "Woodworking safety"....Good luck.
Thankyou so much for making a very clear and concise video , talked through at a sensible speed that allows people to understand and make good use of . There are so many ridiculous ,, look at me ,,, videos on here on this subject with hyper crazy loons screaming away trying to talk over some bloody rock music ,, what the hell is that all about ? I’m gonna sub ,, Thankyou so much once again
I am eager to learn, just bought my first tablesaw so i want to thank you for this clear tutorial with all the need to know why's
Great! Thanks for watching. Let us know if you have any questions.
This might be the most useful video for anyone buying their first table saw, thank you!
Thanks - Glad you found it useful!
i'm glad I read the comment section before I asked "why only one runner?"----- great instruction! and after watching several others, this is the one I saved to to build my sled(tweak it if I want) thank you
I'm gonna ask because I don't see any comments about runners. Why only one?
Love how simple it is to make. An excellent video - thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I like your videos from Woodsmith I just write a letter to you guys and send to you happy holidays and happy New Years to Woodsmith have a great day my name is Terell Jones
Happy holidays!
Simple and effective thanks for the details of manufacture 😊
As a magazine subscriber, I really like your articles! These are excellent sleds! Thank you!
always enjoy watching your Videos, even when you are on Create TV. Thanks for posting this
Thanks for watching!
I am building this project. TIP! Check your saws factory fence for square first. Then cut the dust rabbet before you move the saws factory fence in for sled assembly using double sided tape. Video shows assembly of the sled base to the runner and the sled fence to the sled. Its at this point the rabbet comes up in the video. Make all your table saw cuts first. Otherwise you have to realign the table saw fence when assembling. If using an older saw, your saws factory fence could be a 64th or 32nd off making the new sled crooked.
This is an excellent suggestion... I would recommend not only regularly checking your fence alignment but also your blade to table alignment, and miter gauge setup. I've been burned a few times on assuming everything was setup properly because things can shift from time to time - especially in our shop when we have lots of different people using the same tools. :(
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine what's worse is when you mess up your own project! Recently did that with my jointer fence by not checking LOL..
@@PRRGG1 - Oh no... about a year ago I was cutting a bunch of parts on the table saw for a dresser and it wasn't until I was about done that I realized the blade was tilted about 1 or 2 degrees off 90. NOOOOOOOO!!!! :(
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine that stinks! And the next thought is "how can I save it?" :)
@@PRRGG1 - That seems to be a large portion of woodworking... How to fix the screw-ups. :)
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I really like this solution! Thank you.
Need to back up and add a step. Make sure that your fence is parallel to the blade. If it isn't then your sled fence won't be square to the blade. Using the blade to square the sled fence is another option.
Excellent content. Very well explained.
Thank you!
The best Table saw sled video I have seen
Excellent instruction on how to 👍👍👍
For my long sled I attached the end near the blade with a screw then set a dowel into the slide at what my square said was 90. Then using feeler gauges I shimmed out my fence gradually until it cut perfect on a 5 cut
If I rebuild it I may disassemble a cheap harbor freight micrometer to tune it
Nice one, Phil. I always enjoy watching you. Best, M.W.
Mark Williams -Thanks, Mark.
I like the idea of the thumb protector at the back of the sled. I'm guessing this was learned the hard way in some wood shop century ago...
So true... I really appreciate having that there. I'm the type of person that can get complacent with safety and forget where my hands are on a sled.
Really great demo...thanks
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video.
Nice pace, clear instructions and importantly anyone can make this sled.
Thank you so much for releasing the plans.
New sub!
I like it. I can do this. Some are so overengineered i don’t even try to make it
Great video but there are better ways to square the fence. For example using a screw as a pivot for initially attaching the fence then clamp/screw the other end and test using the 5 cut method or the dial indicator method or the flip over method. Make any adjustments, drill new holes and screw so the fence wont reset in an old position and test again.
John Barr - Good suggestions, thanks!
We know.
@@rodpotts2666, if you knew about the 5 cut method then I doubt you would be watching this video to build a sled.
I like that your muzak is basically Offspring's Self Esteem
Whaaatttt??
Square the fence to the blade using the '5 cut method' as described by William NG using feeler gauge is a a very accurate method. I like the extended table.
I used Ng's method to make a sled that cuts to within 0.001" over a 22 inch cut! It makes perfect square cuts every time. Combine this with his miter jig and you're set for perfect 45's too. Also, King's Fine Woodworking made a pretty sweet sled using Ng's method
The Purple ad is the very first one I have actually watched. Normally just skip them but Colin Mochrie is just too funny to skip.
LOL... I haven't seen that one yet. I'll keep my eye out for it. :)
Very nice I subbed and liked also downloaded the plans thanks for posting
Great! Thanks for watching. :)
Very nice video with great information.
Thanks!
Mil gracias.
Cabal eso estaba haciendo y subí a buscar algunos modelos. Encontré el de ustedes y ¡¡¡vaya sorpresa!!!, planos gratuitos.
Dios los bendiga por ser tan generosos al compartir sus experiencias y permitir que otros podamos usar sus diseños.
Un saludo desde Guatemala.
I love what you guys do. Now I have a cheap Harbor Freight table saw because at this time I can't afford a better one. Now do you have an idea how to make a crosscut sled when its a partly a T grove?
While I’ve never built a sled Jeffrey, I don’t think the T groove will matter. I would use a calipers to get the proper width of the miter gauge slot. You might take several measurements along the length of the slot. I think when I build mine that’s what I will do. I will make a 2nd hardwood runner for the opposite side of the blade. Thank you & Merry Christmas
Excellent - easy to follow, well explained. I will build one soon.
Robert Sauve - Thanks glad you enjoyed it. 👍
This is all good for those that have the expensive equipment shown here. I have just beginning table saw. So can you make one of these for the cheaper table saws?
Absolutely. A sled lkke this can help make that beginner saw cut like a more expensive product. Take your time to make the sled and it will help in the long run.
It does not matter what table saw you have. You could be rocking an overly priced SawStop or a cheap pile of junk from Harbor Freight. The sled making process is the same for all table saws. 🍻
Good video and sled. Dont agree with the title though because, if you cut panels, you also need a panel sled.
Thanks! Fair enough on the critique of the title.
Awesome tutorial! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Will do! :)
Thank you
You're welcome! :)
Thanks.
Even though you couldnt be any less entertaining to watch, for You Tube.
I do appreciate the tutorial. And can see that you care very much about the craft, There is about 1000 videos on the subject. After watching some of them I still had questions. being a scenic carpenter for 25 years noticed that if leave things out an inexperienced weekend warrior will be in the hospital by Monday..
Thanks for the input.
The music in between the parts is undeniably The Passenger by Iggy Pop played like a ballad on a piano.
That's awesome... I never really listened that closely.
Would it be a good idea to install a second hardwood runner in the other miter gauge slot?
much more reliable and accurate with 2 runners, this is garbage
@@agentchodybanks9120 I agree. I wouldn't trust one runner to remain accurate especially using solid wood even with screws
Good sled. But probably not the last one you will ever build. There is always something else you will want the sled to do. For instance you might want a clamp to hold the workpiece in place so your fingers stay clear of the blade.🙂🙂
Well Done, Easy to follow and will build the Larger one for myself as well !
Thx’s for
Vince Presto - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. 👍
Woodsmith .presure potvc
Thank You Phil for sharing this video. Love it and I'm going to build one asap. Thanks again and Merry Christmas :)
Thanks for watching and let us know how the build goes. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, too!
I think squaring the fence needs a separate video. It's not clear how to make that adjustment and I tried to do with screws, not so easy. I'd also recommend a stopper screw on the hardwood rail to stop the sled once its past last bridge. I saw that in another DIY video by Sergio
Good points... Having a square fence is probably the most critical aspect of a table saw sled so it could definitely use more detail. Thanks.
newbie question here (I just bought a table saw 4 days ago, so really new to this whole thing). You have the stop block on the left side of the blade, which seems wrong to me. Your sled has all that room on the left side to take longer stock, but then you defeat that by putting a stop on that side. What am I missing here?
Good question. No replies!
A dead board on the other side of the blade with a runner attached to hold it in the other slot will prevent the tail stock from falling off the sled.
Could you explain what you mean? I'm new at this.
Sam Young when using your sled for longer boards the tail off piece tends to break off at the end of a cut. To prevent that breaking you need a support sled identical to yours only without a fence on the other side of the blade. The support sled just sits there "dead" and keeps the tail off piece from cracking at the end of the cut.
Excelente, algo de resaltar es la metodología de los detalles ...Gracias
Just subscribed and got the free plans for the bigger sled. It's a good one and easy to make and the instructions are easy to follow. Nice handy hints like double sided tape and also the horizontal piece of wood on the back bridge to protect fingers. Especially good for me ! made a nice tight square cut with it too ! Thank you
I like the sleds with two runners.
We’ve found that it can be a little tricky to get two runners perfectly located and parallel to each other. If this isn’t done correctly the sled will bind and won’t slide smoothly... Using just one runner is simpler and seems to work fine, but to each their own. Thanks for watching.
Like the poster below, I would be concerned that the long fence in the second sled would (1) not be perfectly straight to begin with and/or (2) would warp over time. What type of wood did you use for it and what process did you go through to make sure it was perfectly straight ,,, at least first?
Those are fair concerns... it looks like the fence is a piece of 3/4" thick hard maple. I'm sure we picked a piece that was pretty flat and stable to begin with and then jointed one face to flatten it and then planed it to thickness. We have a fairly climate controlled shop that doesn't have large swings in temperature or humidity that would contribute to future warping, but that is definitely something to check from time to time.
Three points of concern. First of all, the square used for "squaring" is small, leading to inaccuracies proportional to the length of the piece. Secondly, which is intended to offset the problems of point 1, the fence is screwed in, but adjustable for fine tuning. This means that the screws could loosen over time causing aberrations to increase with use. The fence is never glued or otherwise permanently fastened. Thirdly, using the blade as a reference could prove to be inaccurate if the blade were changed out for another with a different kerf width. As a final note, mention ought to be made of the materials used so that properties inherent, such as warping over time, do not become an issue. Other than these points, that caught my attention, I like the creativity and forward thinking that leads to greater versatility, which we could all use. Good job!
Thanks for the input. You could certainly use a larger square if you had one but the square is just used a reference to get you started. You should really make some test cuts and check your test pieces for square with a precision tool. As for the adjustment screws, you make a good point... Once you have the fence adjusted for square, it would probably be helpful to "pin" the fence in place with a couple countersunk screws to keep it from moving over time. Lastly, although most blade kerfs are approximately 1/8", it is possible to changing to a thin kerf blade would affect the accuracy of the measuring tape on the flip stop system, but if you were going to use a thinner kerf blade consistently then you could just adjust the position of the cross-hair indicator to reflect the change.
Actually the biggest issue with this design is none of what you said..It's the simple fact the Sled bridges aren't tall enough to accommodate the full height of the table blade for thicker workpieces. Plan calls for a 3 inch height which is not tall enough. The sled needs a rise in the middle of the bridge cut on a band saw. Otherwise the design is fine. This isn't the first Woodsmith plan I was easily able to poke holes in, I tried the dado sled they have and it was an awful plan.
jc51373 - You can make the bridges as tall as you’d like for your applications. No design is perfect for every application, but I’ve been using this sled for quite a while and never had a problem. But I am cutting mostly 3/4” to 1” thick material typically. We also use this sled: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/ultimate-crosscut-sled/ in our production shop quite a bit. It might address some of your concerns, but feel free to critique it as well.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine yes you can't really cut anything over that thickness (1 1/4" at most) with this design unless you want the hand guard to be sacrificial, which is not supposed to be, even then it's not more than 1 1/2" max. It would have been a good callout in the plan or your video because I went and bought all the material, cut them down to the plans dimensions and it wasn't until assembly i realized that limitation of this sled, which is a big limitation. Now I have to redo the bridges. Also your video doesn't cover how you aligned the holes for the fence on the sled base that would be helpful to know as well.
Excellent points. Someone else in the comments here also mentioned how, in this design, the aluminum extrusion for the flip stop track dips down on the back on the back of the fence. So if you have a saw stop that is something to consider, as well on the depth of cut limitation.
Great set-up. I'll be saving my pennies to address this issue in my beginner shop. Thanks.
Phil, I enjoy your videos.There very complete and I learn a lot. Thanks. I had a question, what kind of double face tape do you use. What is the brand name and where can I buy it. Nothing I’ve seen seems to match what you use. Thanks very much. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. I believe the brand of double-sided tape we use is from Intertape Polymer Group (IPG). We've had pretty good luck with that brand.
Here is one source: amzn.to/2D8oGBB Here is a video we shot with more info: ruclips.net/video/kZbX4Sq5YIg/видео.html
Thank you very much.
Looking forward to using these helpful tips. Thank you.
I'm wondering what brand steel rule you were using to measure with?? I would like one like that... SR
Great Sled. Very well done and easy to understand. Thank you for sharing this. :-)
I have a question on why you use the pan head screw instead of a undercut or countersunk head wood screw is it because he shank doesn't provide any contact without threads?
Good question... we used panhead screws in an over-sized shank hole so you could loosen them and make fine adjustments to get the fence set. If you use countersunk screws you are really locking it in to that position, and it makes it harder to make adjustments later.
Just wondering why you don't dado the base bottom for the runner instead of the tape?
A 1/8 in deep dado will lift the runner some and it assures both he runner and base are straight.
Also, a framing square and the fence should aline the fence with the base and blade.
A dado in the base would sure work. You would then make the runner slightly thicker - Something Ill keep in mind next time we're working on a sled. I usually tend to stay away from framing squares - I drop mine too much and I don't trust they're terribly square (although, they're square enough for framing)!
Woodsmith
Thanks Bunches for the reply! Though I can't write out the details, there is away to check a framing square and even a way to adjust it with a center punch.
My experience is the longer the square, to a certain extent, the better, more square you'll be.
Yep, i've adjusted a few of mine by punching the inside (or outside) corner with a center punch to pull it back into square! Great trick.
@@dougsprojects6431 That is almost a myth. IF you know what you're doing and have the right kind of punch and a solid place to strike it (like an anvil) you can expand/contract a square that way - but unless you have a machined square to begin with - it's a waste of time if you're looking for a reference surface. All of the steel or aluminum squares sold at home centers are stamped out - they're not machined. The blades/tongues are not truly straight, and they vary in width by as much as 20-30 thou. along their length, and they're not truly all in the same plane. If you don't know what you're doing you're just as apt to knock your square out of plane as you are to open or close the angle. Bottom line, if machinist accuracy matters then use a machined tool (like Woodpecker stuff) - but those are $200 squares not $20 squares.
I wonder if you were lucky to get it perfectly square first time? If you make a cut then reverse the test piece and make a second cut about 1/4" (6mm) in the measure the offcut it will show double the error and make adjustment of the fence easier.
We are ALWAYS lucky enough to get it perfect on the first try here in the Woodsmith Shop. ;) Yes, typically you'll probably have some adjustment back and forth before it's perfect.
Or use the '5-cuts' method for even more accuracy and quicker results.
Norman Bott I did that and spent a lot of time getting rid of the last thou’ error. So I screwed a small block to the base of the sled with a screw into the near horizontal which allowed me to micro adjust. Being a retired aircraft engineer does not help woodworking. Does anyone need a lot of small wood strips which are parallel apart from an error
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Which you can't do because you glued the sled down permanently with the double sided tape.
When and if you have to fine tune the fence after tests cut for true cut. If you loosen screws to make adjustment and retighten doesn't that make it go back to same position or do you re-drill the holes?
We used panhead screws and washers in oversized, counterbored holes so you can make fine adjustments and tighten them done without returning to the original position.
Do you guys have a video describing the auxiliary fence and how you attached it to the miter gauge as well?
thank you so much, the video was so useful
Great video. How deep will the blade cut with the larger sled? It looks like the max is 1 1/4". Thanks.
That is correct. If you use the Kreg flip stop system, it limits the height of the fence. If you choose not to use the Kreg flip stop you could really make the back fence as tall as you want.
I'm about as green as they come, I noticed that you weren't using a riving knife, Do I need to use one with a table saw sled?
Thanks for the free plans and videos
No problem. Let us know how the build goes.
I don't understand how loosening the screws and then tightening them back up change the angle? Wouldn't the board be back to the same angle as before? Thanks
You do fantastic work!! Will these sleds work on the inexpensive jobsite table saws that the novice woodworker uses?
Yes, absolutely!
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine The problem I have using one on my DeWalt DW744 is the blade comes up too far to the front which either limits the size of the board that can be cut or balancing the sled that is off the table saw bed. Going to try to build one with a framework to stop a lot of the tilting. BTW great detailed video!
Great tips and sleds!
Thanks!
The sled in part 3 looks like the riving knife nor a splitter is used. I have some thin kerf blades that the riving knife is too thick to use with my table saw. It looks like I need this sled if I want to use my thinner kerf blades, than I can with my riving knife.
Thank you - I like your style, especially for the novice like myself! What are the pros and cons of one track over two?
We’ve done sleds with either one or two runners in the past. Two runners might give a little more stability but it adds another layer of difficulty to get both runners in the correct position and perfectly parallel. One runner seems to work fine and is a little easier to execute.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine Just curious but if the runners fit snugly in their slots, how is it tough to get both runners "in the correct position and perfectly parallel? I'm not trying to be a troll, just don't understand the response.
Captain G - no, it is a good question. It really isn’t an overly complicated process, it’s just another step that we felt wasn’t necessary for this introductory sled. We have put 2 runners on other sleds we’ve made, and they have worked fine too. I think this would actually be a good topic of discussion for a future video. Thanks.
Rabbet? Rabbit? Ahh, a REBATE!
Don’t get the part “loosened the screws and moved the fence just a little bit and tightened”. It is not like the screw holes change location. How you can make an adjustment like that?
The screw holes in the sled base are over-sized (1/4" I think) so there is room around the shank of the screw to make minor adjustments and then tighten the screw back down. We used a panhead screw with a washer to secure the fence. I believe this is shown in more detail in the plans. Good question though... thanks for asking.
If you loosen the screws to adjust the fence aren't they just going to go back into the same hole?
We used panhead screws in oversized, counterbored holes so there is a little room for adjustment. You can loosen the screw and move it over within that oversized hole and tighten it back down.
I am from the future and I can confirm this is the last table saw sled ever
Thank you for confirming that for all the haters. :)
14:16 How is it easy to do since you glued the fence down? If you move the end, you will bend the fence.
The high humidity where I live demands the use of something other than wood for the runners. Even hardwood runners swell up a lot during summer months.
Yeah, I would actually recommend upgrading to an aluminum runner like the Kreg KMS7303 (seen here: amzn.to/2CWqxIn) We've used it on some of other sleds like this one: ruclips.net/video/KWyLrDZAW-c/видео.html
I use plastic runners
Why not put sandpaper on the mitre gauge face to stop creeping?
why aren't you using 2 runners? especially on the extended sled
Tg u for sharing..*****
Why not use two runners on the larger sled? Wouldn't it be more stable and add to the accuracy?
I don’t know if you get any more stability with 2 runners versus one, but I find that it’s harder to set up 2 runners because if they aren’t perfectly placed and parallel the sled will bind and not slide smoothly.
Beautifully done Sir. Thanks for sharing. Any reason why you did not use two runners?
sum1sw - we’ve found that it can be a little tricky to get two runners perfectly located and parallel to each other. If this isn’t done correctly the sled will bind and won’t slide smoothly. Using just one runner seems to work fine.
Thank you for your advice. I'll keep that in mind, but I really like your double sided adhesive tape method, I thought it would work. - regards
Fantastic my friend . I gone do it . I’ m in Brazil. Regards , tks a lot . Beni
EVERALDO BENI - Thanks for watching... best of luck.
Hello Woodsmith,
1 ?. Why not duel runners for the larger sled?.
I don’t know if you get any more stability with 2 runners versus one, but I find that it’s harder to set up 2 runners because if they aren’t perfectly placed and parallel the sled will bind and not slide smoothly.
Outstanding video....thank you 👍
Mr wood smith. Where can a person buy a metal runner that fits perfect instead of wood runners
The aluminum bar we like to use is the Kreg Jig and Fixture Bar (KMS7303): amzn.to/2wBs8ny
what's the name of your glue being used?
At 14:15 always make sure your combination square is actually square, because they can lose their accuracy.
This is true. You want to check your tool precision and accuracy from time to time. I've been burned before on this.
The plans for the larger sled seem to have a problem. It shows a distance of 12" from the right edge to the blade slot. The width of the bridges is 12". But the distance shown from the right edge of the bed to the right side of the far bridge is 8". That would put the blade slot only 4" into the bridge, when it clearly shows (in the instructions and video) that the blade slot goes through the center of the bridge. I'm going to assume that the 8" measurement shown is wrong, and should say 6" instead?