I've worked on many of these and figured them out, have them down to almost a science one could say. Been doing a few of them for some other guys even wanting to improve their S-III cars. The first main issue is the pinion gear in many cases. I have replaced the pinion with a TYCO and even using some of the nicer(for some reason) crown gears (many are more true to round as well, but not all are good)with the stock factory axles, they improve so much more its almost hard to believe. I have also developed a simple method of removing the factory crown gears and using the Tyco (440 crown) with the Tyco pinion with rewarding success on the Factory AW axles and they run even as good or better with an AFX SRT or MEGA G or Life-Like rear end in them! wow! I have gotten many to most to run as fast as some factory MEGA G+ , TYCO 440's, Tomy Turbo and others, proven by a timing system on a big track track. The very first thing though is to OIL tehm well and often and run them to break them in as much as possible before they want to "light up" at the brushes, cool and clean the commutator's, run/break in some more and then take out the brushes, (or this can be done first > But not recommended actually because if the barrel threads get ruined trying this they are not offered as a replacement part by AW)brush springs and even many times the brush barrels , clean them by rolling springs and brushes on the sticky side of some tape, spraying the barrels out with electrical cleaner, slightly stretching the springs then reassembling. Secondly to do is to press the traction magnets up into the chassis about a 1/8 inch or so as the magnetic down force is too much until you find the sweet spot once the chassis is running right and depending on what size tires you go with(I recommend .470 or so but any that allow the chassis to clear is fine-you just have to adjust traction magnets for best performance)holds t back even with the factory tires. (also lower front tires will improve things )Speaking of springs, the pickup springs are most times damaged and or bent up in one way or another and I meticulously straighten those as well and get the tensions about the same by using my simple method but wont go into that here. The pickups sometimes want to move and ride on top of the springs on top of the brush barrels. Not good and will diminish performance. The NEW keepers help once they are centered between the springs. Lastly I knurl the axle ends with the edge of a metal file to replace wheels. I can only wish all could see how good and smooth & fast my S-III chassis are. I do sell them on eBay at times.
I have an auto world 4 gear that makes a terrible high pitched squeal and is very slow... car was great out of the box but after a handful of runs it started squealing and runs slow. Any suggestions? Thanks new subscriber.
Really appreciate these little workbench tip videos. I think most "crap" cars and car brands can be improved significantly with just a few mods and some consideration of which components are responsible for the poor performance. Especially if you can buy some of the cheaper products and get some good performance out of them. That really makes me feel like I got my money's worth. Thanks.
Great on the outside junk on the inside. AW Super lll slot cars. Looks like you got it to ride pretty good. Thanks for the video. I have over 10 of these but won't run them because they over heat and are pig slow but they look good in the pits. I'd like to find a chassis that works with there bodies made by someone else.
Send them all to me if you want- minimal cost to get them right. Guys have sent theirs to me from New York to South Dakota and western Canada as well as other type chassis to refurbish get right and run good and fast . They are one of my specialties. I have never used aftermarket parts in them -Not needed -only other factory parts and some are WIZZARD fast; others a super fast also. It all depends on what you want out of them and how much extra you want to spend for other factory parts if wanted in them as well.
I have one AW and just put a lifelike stock M axle, crown gear, hubs and pinion on it. With new tires it now runs ok not great but better than stock. Great bodies but a stock lifelike T still outruns it by quite a bit.
Thanks for taking a peek at Autoworld’s not so fast crappy super lll chassis👍🏻 I love their body’s but, Geez .. those horrible chassis. One thing also is I get them so hot smells like an electrical fire in the room 😂 I run the Jel claws and soooooo much better ride!
I've got a few of these super-crappy... eh.. I mean super-3's, as well. I'm surprised you got a one with a decent pinion. Every one I've seen the pinion is extremely OOR. I replaced both gears on all of mine and did all the other recommended tweaks and got a few of them to run ok-ish, but only for a few laps before they start to over-heat. Worthless junk IMO, and I just do my best to avoid them now. It's really too bad AW cant get their $#!+ together and produce a quality product. They're so close, just a little more quality control and they'd be much better. I only buy AW stuff when I can get it at an extreme discount anymore. I really like the x-tractions and T-jet ultra g's, but almost every single one I have needed a major over-haul right out of the package. It does seem like they have greatly improved the quality of their track, though. I bought the Tri-oval set after watching your video on it and was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the track pieces. I wouldn't have bought that either, though, if it wasn't for your review and the 40% Hobby Lobby discount.
If you have any that need worked on to get right and run so good and fast you wont believe, send them to me . Guys have sent theirs to me from New York to South Dakota and western Canada as well as other type chassis to refurbish get right and run good and fast . They are one of my specialties. I have never used aftermarket parts in them -Not needed -only other factory parts and some are WIZZARD fast; others a super fast also. It all depends on what you want out of them and how much extra you want to spend for other factory parts if wanted in them as well.
Great video I'm glad theres experts out in slot car world I was able to finally fix my car .thank you
I've worked on many of these and figured them out, have them down to almost a science one could say. Been doing a few of them for some other guys even wanting to improve their S-III cars. The first main issue is the pinion gear in many cases. I have replaced the pinion with a TYCO and even using some of the nicer(for some reason) crown gears (many are more true to round as well, but not all are good)with the stock factory axles, they improve so much more its almost hard to believe. I have also developed a simple method of removing the factory crown gears and using the Tyco (440 crown) with the Tyco pinion with rewarding success on the Factory AW axles and they run even as good or better with an AFX SRT or MEGA G or Life-Like rear end in them! wow! I have gotten many to most to run as fast as some factory MEGA G+ , TYCO 440's, Tomy Turbo and others, proven by a timing system on a big track track. The very first thing though is to OIL tehm well and often and run them to break them in as much as possible before they want to "light up" at the brushes, cool and clean the commutator's, run/break in some more and then take out the brushes, (or this can be done first > But not recommended actually because if the barrel threads get ruined trying this they are not offered as a replacement part by AW)brush springs and even many times the brush barrels , clean them by rolling springs and brushes on the sticky side of some tape, spraying the barrels out with electrical cleaner, slightly stretching the springs then reassembling. Secondly to do is to press the traction magnets up into the chassis about a 1/8 inch or so as the magnetic down force is too much until you find the sweet spot once the chassis is running right and depending on what size tires you go with(I recommend .470 or so but any that allow the chassis to clear is fine-you just have to adjust traction magnets for best performance)holds t back even with the factory tires. (also lower front tires will improve things )Speaking of springs, the pickup springs are most times damaged and or bent up in one way or another and I meticulously straighten those as well and get the tensions about the same by using my simple method but wont go into that here. The pickups sometimes want to move and ride on top of the springs on top of the brush barrels. Not good and will diminish performance. The NEW keepers help once they are centered between the springs. Lastly I knurl the axle ends with the edge of a metal file to replace wheels. I can only wish all could see how good and smooth & fast my S-III chassis are. I do sell them on eBay at times.
I have an auto world 4 gear that makes a terrible high pitched squeal and is very slow... car was great out of the box but after a handful of runs it started squealing and runs slow. Any suggestions? Thanks new subscriber.
Really appreciate these little workbench tip videos. I think most "crap" cars and car brands can be improved significantly with just a few mods and some consideration of which components are responsible for the poor performance. Especially if you can buy some of the cheaper products and get some good performance out of them. That really makes me feel like I got my money's worth. Thanks.
Great on the outside junk on the inside. AW Super lll slot cars. Looks like you got it to ride pretty good. Thanks for the video. I have over 10 of these but won't run them because they over heat and are pig slow but they look good in the pits. I'd like to find a chassis that works with there bodies made by someone else.
Send them all to me if you want- minimal cost to get them right. Guys have sent theirs to me from New York to South Dakota and western Canada as well as other type chassis to refurbish get right and run good and fast . They are one of my specialties. I have never used aftermarket parts in them -Not needed -only other factory parts and some are WIZZARD fast; others a super fast also. It all depends on what you want out of them and how much extra you want to spend for other factory parts if wanted in them as well.
@@artsmart07 Thanks Simon for your comment. Might contact you in the future.
@@gerardfalardeau2317 anytime..
I have one AW and just put a lifelike stock M axle, crown gear, hubs and pinion on it. With new tires it now runs ok not great but better than stock. Great bodies but a stock lifelike T still outruns it by quite a bit.
Thanks for taking a peek at Autoworld’s not so fast crappy super lll chassis👍🏻 I love their body’s but, Geez .. those horrible chassis. One thing also is I get them so hot smells like an electrical fire in the room 😂 I run the Jel claws and soooooo much better ride!
SIKK.. read my tips above to greatly improve your S-III chassis. a Wizzard knockoff chassis as you may know. .
I've got a few of these super-crappy... eh.. I mean super-3's, as well. I'm surprised you got a one with a decent pinion. Every one I've seen the pinion is extremely OOR. I replaced both gears on all of mine and did all the other recommended tweaks and got a few of them to run ok-ish, but only for a few laps before they start to over-heat. Worthless junk IMO, and I just do my best to avoid them now. It's really too bad AW cant get their $#!+ together and produce a quality product. They're so close, just a little more quality control and they'd be much better. I only buy AW stuff when I can get it at an extreme discount anymore. I really like the x-tractions and T-jet ultra g's, but almost every single one I have needed a major over-haul right out of the package. It does seem like they have greatly improved the quality of their track, though. I bought the Tri-oval set after watching your video on it and was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the track pieces. I wouldn't have bought that either, though, if it wasn't for your review and the 40% Hobby Lobby discount.
If you have any that need worked on to get right and run so good and fast you wont believe, send them to me . Guys have sent theirs to me from New York to South Dakota and western Canada as well as other type chassis to refurbish get right and run good and fast . They are one of my specialties. I have never used aftermarket parts in them -Not needed -only other factory parts and some are WIZZARD fast; others a super fast also. It all depends on what you want out of them and how much extra you want to spend for other factory parts if wanted in them as well.
Thanks. I won't run my lll cars because they sound terrible !
It's the gears. I've determined that the crown gear is the worst offending part. The pinion is OK. The teeth on the crown are not designed right.
Mike.. read my tips above to greatly improve these Wizzard knockoff chassis.
Auto world cars are absolute junk....and there is no knowing what you get out of the box. Some run okay others run horrible.