I'm sorry I didn't get around to this yet. Basically, in the CT cable you'll find a red wire, a black wire, and a bare stranded wire. For series, the red from the inverter end of the CT connects to the red of the first CT. The black from the first CT connects to the red of the second CT. The black from the second CT connects to the black going back into the inverter. The bare connects with the bare of the first CT and second CT. If you want to try parallel, the red from the inverter goes to the red of both CTs, the black from the inverter to the black of both CTs, and the bare of the inverter to the bare of both CTs. The settings can be found at ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html
My observations are: let’s say when L1 and N draws 100W, the inverter will generate 200W since it is 240 V. L2 and N will generate the same power as 100 W and will be exported back to grid.
Interesting. This is happening in your setup currently? Looking at my energy monitor at present I see (using a snapshot from just now) 380W on L1 and 65W on L2. The inverter is generating ~440W (5W under load). I switched on some lighting on L2 pushing it to 88W. The inverter is generating ~462W.
@@thedabbler2753 I have question. How do you connect your 2 limiter sensors? Parallel or in series? Assuming it’s parallel, if L1 draws +100W and L2 draws -100W what is the total reading of both sensors? Assuming it’s connected in series, what is total reading of both sensors too? I am confused. Since 240 v GTI with limiter has only 1 input sensor there is no way the limiter will know which phase is sensing L1 or L2? Try to test L1 and L2 with external clamps you will see different results.
Yes. With only one input for the CT sensor, you can’t avoid this on 120v circuit. For this reason I went with 2 1,000 watt units with 2 separate sensors. One unit is all for L1 and one is for L2.
Would it work to just buy one of the 120 Volt grid-tie inverters, limiting to just one of the two 120v "legs" coming in? I see everyone buys two, one for each phase. But if you just want to reduce your energy bill a little bit with 4 panels, wouldn't it work perfectly fine to just do one?
One 120v for one leg would with the clamp would work. The effectiveness is going to depend on what you have running on that leg and how much you pay for electricity, but certainly it will chip away a bit :)
I really appreciate the reply; its more of a learning thing. And one that should pay for itself in 4 or 5 years. I got 4 panels used for $24 ea (245 watts each - Santan Solar near me), and the inverter is $200. If this drops my bill by 5 or 10 a month, thats fine! Just to get this thing going is fun and a learning experience. @@thedabbler2753
Mine are Hooked In Series Watch the Hots you use it changes the reading one Hot will show Minus then plug it in to another one and is will say Plus, Once you get it leave it alone and it should be good to go! This had me going for a few days.. Good Luck! God Bless!!!
Hello i was looking at your connection with your grid tie inverter and I was wondering how do you connected the limiter to get it to limit both leg of the Grit
Good video. Can you provide a model number for this inverter? And I did not understand your comment about the older units. Are they missing the Neutral connector?
The 2000W model that I use, which has a 45-90V VOC, is model SUN-2000G2-H. My older unit has the 5.2 firmware and the kettle / PC type plug, whereas the newer one has 6.1 and a terminal block, but both wire up the same. The 2000W model is a 240V device, so what is labelled as L and N on the GTIL go to the two hot terminals on a double pole breaker, while the ground goes to the ground bar. Nothing connects to the neutral bar in the breaker panel. I hope that helps.
I have 3+ years of using the 1000W version with one on L1 and the other on L2. I have not purchased the 2000W because of the one Current Clamp. I get the AC (alternating current) side of the box. You lost me on the Current Clamp(s). I would like to have two of the 2000W units set up in place of my two 1000W units. Is there any way possible you would draw (hand drawn is fine) a schematic of how to wire the Current Clamps in this series and parallel fashion and what clamp from what inverter goes where? My system has worked perfectly for over 3 years with no adjustments. I just would like more power. Could you please help?
Thanks for your question. I'll get something together as soon as I can. In the meantime I'd like to give some extra detail to help you decide before getting too far into it. I originally bought my GTILs to run directly from panels, and jumped in for the 2k unit because why not. The panels pushed 62-70v depending on conditions so it was able to hit the rated unit max of 1800W per GTIL, but after a couple of years it became clear a lot of the generation was thrown away in the day which could gave gone to evening loads, so I added batteries last year. It was a great decision which really helped for overall monthly generation, but it isn't perfect if one is expecting twice the on demand power of the 1ks when on batteries. I opted for 48V (51.2V) as it was easiest to find charge controllers and batteries for that voltage. While it works fine it's at the low end of the 2k's 45-90 VOC so for more watts that means more amps and more heat. To keep the heat down I capped the input to 25A and they've run fine now for several years. When the battery voltage is in the 54-56v that's about 1350W to 1400W, so the best case is 2800W of the potential 3600W from 2 x 2k GTILs. I haven't really seen any gain moving it to 28A. To get safely near the rated 1800W per unit one would need a 60V battery. With 1k units a 48v battery hits the sweet spot for their 22-65v VOC and I'm guessing yours can hit around 900W each without issue, so as you already have two units, and provided you have the wall space you might actually be better off adding another 1k GTIL per leg for 3600W. You'd have increased redundancy and could still take advantage of paralleling the CTs. e.g. GTIL1k-1-L1 and GTIL1k-2-L1 parallel to CT-L1. GTIL1k-3-L2 and GTIL1k-4-L2 parallel to CT-L2. I hope that didn't put you off the 2k. It is a good unit. Just trying to see how best you can grow what you have.
@@thedabbler2753 Thank you for the excellent, understandable, and enlightening reply. Just a couple bits of house keeping before I continue: 1.) I have batteries but not connected in the usual way. I have two more GTIL1ks set up in watts-limited mode (battery mode setting) set to 150Watts each, one "L1" and one on "L2" connected to 48VDC batteries. My battery system in controlled by simple "on/off" 24 hour timers that turn on the battery inverters about one hour after my day time GTIL1ks shut off due to sundown. They are not connected to the existing Current Transformers (CTs) as I do not know if in battery mode setting there is an option which utilizes the CTs(?) If so, I would just use the additional CTs that came with the two additional GTIL1ks used for batteries at nighttime (IF, I had room on my busbars). The 150Watts per GTIL1ks on battery is due to my house never uses less than 400Watts and this keeps a 100Watt no-back-feed margin (no CT control). Even more strange, I have high quality AC battery chargers also connected to simple "on/off" timers that come on during peak solar hours and recharge the batteries each day. This cycle repeats without error every 24 hours. So no Solar charge controller of any kind for battery charging. I may rethink/redesign my whole system if I go (most likely) with your recommendation of four GTIL1ks for daytime which I like. So, lets assume I go with the four GTIL1ks for daytime power. I have a problem that my breaker panel does not have accessible L1 and L2 cables. I have only solid metal busbars coming from the smart meter. I only have room for one CT per busbar which is why I originally stopped at just one GTIL1k per busbar. (daytime) I fully understand DC parallel and series wiring. I don't understand if two GTIL1k can share one CT wired in (I don't know, series or parallel ????). I see the '"e.g." above and so am guessing you indicate I can use one CT in parallel with two GTIL1k on the same leg? Can you advise in detail here please? I also don't understand if I can utilize the CTs for nighttime battery operation for my other two GTIL1ks set in either solar or battery mode while using just the batteries at night. Can you advise in detail here please? I really appreciate this help as I so want to grow/scale up my system but keep in "under the radar" so to speak. Thank you.
@@benkanobe7500 The limiting / CT function works independently of the battery or solar configuration, so you will be able to use your battery powered 1ks and it will limit itself to the load. I created a short video to explain how the different settings interact. ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html Regarding the metal busbar, it sounds like parallel connection of two 1ks to each CT will solve that. I thought about writing it up here but it got a bit messy so will be doing a video on it soon.
@@thedabbler2753 Thank you. I learned so much from the short video and now understand how I can use my CTs in night time battery mode. I have watched (I think) every RUclips on the blue box GTIL1&2k created over the last 6 years and the batter function has never been successfully understood or explained that I now of. I look forward to your next video (above mentioned). I will be looking for it. Now off to order two more GTIL1ks.
great video, whne the unit stops working and you check DC fuses and they are good , do i haev to take out the MOSFETs ? anything else i can check before desoldering all of them... thank you in advance .
There are quite a few reasons it might be failing. If there are bad MOSFETs then testing and replacing them may work provided nothing else is wrong. While I can't offer a solution, here are a few good threads around the net on this. See... community.openenergymonitor.org/t/repairing-sun-1000gtil2-or-2000gtil2/14947 facebook.com/groups/1532777123642307/user/100000496450995/
I’m glad you say that because I’ve had so many people tell me that the power put a second meter in with solar so that if you add power it charges you for it Just don’t want to make my situation worse, your video was awesome cause I had so many questions for the USA setup for split phase 240 into 120 lines
@@cenval999 they may have a point where there is a second meter, in which case you can just add the CT's for the GTIL and reduce the house load. To the utility, the approved grid tie already in place is just sending more of it's anticipated generation back to them because the GTIL is doing the house. Should be transparent.
Hello great video I hooked up my 2x ct clamp on each string of pannel It seems to only read 1 side... And the wattage of grid taken dont drop.. on mine but it inject solar wattage
There could be multiple issues. Make sure internal limiter is checked (see ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html), then ensure the CTs are facing the same way on each phase. If the watts is negative on the GTIL they are the wrong way.
We have the 2000 watt version however it stopped working do they have an internal fuse it says lifetime warranty what's the page on Amazon disappeared thank you in advance
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you get any sort of error message on the display? There are quite a few reasons they fail, both on the AC and the DC side. There are a couple of Facebook groups [1] you can join that may be able to help you diagnose errors and part level failures. Otherwise it's try and chase the warranty or buy a new unit I'm afraid. As regards warranty work, the SunG units are made in various factories from a reference design, and then resold through numerous resellers that come and go quite quickly, meaning the warranty after the Amazon return window may be worthless. If you can track your reseller down, they usually try to work with you via email. It is unlikely they will swap the unit out, but you can try. More often they suggest the part(s) to replace, but that requires electronics skills. The individual components (fuses, mosfets, capacitors, etc) are not very expensive, and it is possible to buy the GTIL's mainboard and display unit on places like AliExpress for cheaper than a whole new unit, but you will be waiting a while for it to arrive. Given the price point, and cost of your time, you may just have to order a new unit. Before you hook it up, try to understand what went wrong with the first unit. On the DC side, over current or over voltage can damage the unit. e.g. VOC exceeds the limit on a cold day,.amps exceed the 30A max, etc. On either DC or AC surges can damage the unit. You need to ensure adequate surge protection and breakers on either side. Further to that, do not run the units too hard. Set an amp or watt limit in the configuration. [1] facebook.com/groups/1455824754596738/posts/2133319323513941/
I ordered two of the gtil 2000 units today for use in a U.S. split phase setup. Your video was the most helpful I found on how to configure the setup. Are you still using yours?
@@thedabbler2753 thx - my house is already entirely off grid except for my 4 ton central air system. I hope to use the two gtil 2000 units to zero out the load presented by the AC unit which is about 3800 watts when the compressor is running. I wondered if each of my two gtil should be connected to its own 110v hot leg and neutral, or raise the output voltage on each gtil to 220v and connect both gtils in parallel to l1 and l2. I guess still a little confused!
@@happydingo6435 if you're using the 2k, you have to do the latter. The L and N on the GTIL are treated as the two hots in a 240v circuit, so go into a double pole breaker. The G goes to the ground bar. None of it should connect to the neutral bar in the breaker panel.
This doesn't make sense to me because when you connect the GTL to a double breaker, you are connecting both lines to only one leg (120 volt) of the two legs on the breaker box. It seems to me that the GTL lines should go to a breaker on each of the two 120 volt legs in the breaker box.
That's not how a double pole breaker works. I've included a link for you to have a look at at the end of this reply. Scroll down to the bit about the dryer plug as the 2k GTIL is essentially working the same way. You'll see that the L1 and L2 look like a zipper. When a double pole goes in it touches both at the same time. That is why this works. I hope it clarifies things for you. theengineeringmindset.com/120-240v-split-phase-us-can/
Would you mind doing a more detailed video on how you hooked up the CT clamps, and what setting you used? Thanks!
I'm sorry I didn't get around to this yet. Basically, in the CT cable you'll find a red wire, a black wire, and a bare stranded wire. For series, the red from the inverter end of the CT connects to the red of the first CT. The black from the first CT connects to the red of the second CT. The black from the second CT connects to the black going back into the inverter. The bare connects with the bare of the first CT and second CT. If you want to try parallel, the red from the inverter goes to the red of both CTs, the black from the inverter to the black of both CTs, and the bare of the inverter to the bare of both CTs. The settings can be found at ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html
My observations are: let’s say when L1 and N draws 100W, the inverter will generate 200W since it is 240 V. L2 and N will generate the same power as 100 W and will be exported back to grid.
Interesting. This is happening in your setup currently? Looking at my energy monitor at present I see (using a snapshot from just now) 380W on L1 and 65W on L2. The inverter is generating ~440W (5W under load). I switched on some lighting on L2 pushing it to 88W. The inverter is generating ~462W.
I think it’s my limiter sensor that is not properly connected or installed. I’ll let you know. Thank you.
@@thedabbler2753 I have question. How do you connect your 2 limiter sensors? Parallel or in series? Assuming it’s parallel, if L1 draws +100W and L2 draws -100W what is the total reading of both sensors? Assuming it’s connected in series, what is total reading of both sensors too? I am confused. Since 240 v GTI with limiter has only 1 input sensor there is no way the limiter will know which phase is sensing L1 or L2? Try to test L1 and L2 with external clamps you will see different results.
Yes. With only one input for the CT sensor, you can’t avoid this on 120v circuit. For this reason I went with 2 1,000 watt units with 2 separate sensors. One unit is all for L1 and one is for L2.
Would it work to just buy one of the 120 Volt grid-tie inverters, limiting to just one of the two 120v "legs" coming in? I see everyone buys two, one for each phase. But if you just want to reduce your energy bill a little bit with 4 panels, wouldn't it work perfectly fine to just do one?
One 120v for one leg would with the clamp would work. The effectiveness is going to depend on what you have running on that leg and how much you pay for electricity, but certainly it will chip away a bit :)
I really appreciate the reply; its more of a learning thing. And one that should pay for itself in 4 or 5 years. I got 4 panels used for $24 ea (245 watts each - Santan Solar near me), and the inverter is $200. If this drops my bill by 5 or 10 a month, thats fine! Just to get this thing going is fun and a learning experience. @@thedabbler2753
Mine are Hooked In Series Watch the Hots you use it changes the reading one Hot will show Minus then plug it in to another one and is will say Plus, Once you get it leave it alone and it should be good to go! This had me going for a few days.. Good Luck! God Bless!!!
Hello i was looking at your connection with your grid tie inverter and I was wondering how do you connected the limiter to get it to limit both leg of the Grit
Good video. Can you provide a model number for this inverter? And I did not understand your comment about the older units. Are they missing the Neutral connector?
The 2000W model that I use, which has a 45-90V VOC, is model SUN-2000G2-H. My older unit has the 5.2 firmware and the kettle / PC type plug, whereas the newer one has 6.1 and a terminal block, but both wire up the same. The 2000W model is a 240V device, so what is labelled as L and N on the GTIL go to the two hot terminals on a double pole breaker, while the ground goes to the ground bar. Nothing connects to the neutral bar in the breaker panel. I hope that helps.
I have 3+ years of using the 1000W version with one on L1 and the other on L2. I have not purchased the 2000W because of the one Current Clamp. I get the AC (alternating current) side of the box. You lost me on the Current Clamp(s). I would like to have two of the 2000W units set up in place of my two 1000W units.
Is there any way possible you would draw (hand drawn is fine) a schematic of how to wire the Current Clamps in this series and parallel fashion and what clamp from what inverter goes where?
My system has worked perfectly for over 3 years with no adjustments. I just would like more power. Could you please help?
Thanks for your question. I'll get something together as soon as I can. In the meantime I'd like to give some extra detail to help you decide before getting too far into it.
I originally bought my GTILs to run directly from panels, and jumped in for the 2k unit because why not. The panels pushed 62-70v depending on conditions so it was able to hit the rated unit max of 1800W per GTIL, but after a couple of years it became clear a lot of the generation was thrown away in the day which could gave gone to evening loads, so I added batteries last year. It was a great decision which really helped for overall monthly generation, but it isn't perfect if one is expecting twice the on demand power of the 1ks when on batteries.
I opted for 48V (51.2V) as it was easiest to find charge controllers and batteries for that voltage. While it works fine it's at the low end of the 2k's 45-90 VOC so for more watts that means more amps and more heat. To keep the heat down I capped the input to 25A and they've run fine now for several years. When the battery voltage is in the 54-56v that's about 1350W to 1400W, so the best case is 2800W of the potential 3600W from 2 x 2k GTILs. I haven't really seen any gain moving it to 28A. To get safely near the rated 1800W per unit one would need a 60V battery.
With 1k units a 48v battery hits the sweet spot for their 22-65v VOC and I'm guessing yours can hit around 900W each without issue, so as you already have two units, and provided you have the wall space you might actually be better off adding another 1k GTIL per leg for 3600W. You'd have increased redundancy and could still take advantage of paralleling the CTs.
e.g.
GTIL1k-1-L1 and GTIL1k-2-L1 parallel to CT-L1.
GTIL1k-3-L2 and GTIL1k-4-L2 parallel to CT-L2.
I hope that didn't put you off the 2k. It is a good unit. Just trying to see how best you can grow what you have.
@@thedabbler2753 Thank you for the excellent, understandable, and enlightening reply. Just a couple bits of house keeping before I continue:
1.) I have batteries but not connected in the usual way. I have two more GTIL1ks set up in watts-limited mode (battery mode setting) set to 150Watts each, one "L1" and one on "L2" connected to 48VDC batteries. My battery system in controlled by simple "on/off" 24 hour timers that turn on the battery inverters about one hour after my day time GTIL1ks shut off due to sundown. They are not connected to the existing Current Transformers (CTs) as I do not know if in battery mode setting there is an option which utilizes the CTs(?) If so, I would just use the additional CTs that came with the two additional GTIL1ks used for batteries at nighttime (IF, I had room on my busbars). The 150Watts per GTIL1ks on battery is due to my house never uses less than 400Watts and this keeps a 100Watt no-back-feed margin (no CT control).
Even more strange, I have high quality AC battery chargers also connected to simple "on/off" timers that come on during peak solar hours and recharge the batteries each day. This cycle repeats without error every 24 hours. So no Solar charge controller of any kind for battery charging. I may rethink/redesign my whole system if I go (most likely) with your recommendation of four GTIL1ks for daytime which I like.
So, lets assume I go with the four GTIL1ks for daytime power. I have a problem that my breaker panel does not have accessible L1 and L2 cables. I have only solid metal busbars coming from the smart meter. I only have room for one CT per busbar which is why I originally stopped at just one GTIL1k per busbar. (daytime)
I fully understand DC parallel and series wiring. I don't understand if two GTIL1k can share one CT wired in (I don't know, series or parallel ????). I see the '"e.g." above and so am guessing you indicate I can use one CT in parallel with two GTIL1k on the same leg? Can you advise in detail here please?
I also don't understand if I can utilize the CTs for nighttime battery operation for my other two GTIL1ks set in either solar or battery mode while using just the batteries at night. Can you advise in detail here please?
I really appreciate this help as I so want to grow/scale up my system but keep in "under the radar" so to speak. Thank you.
@@benkanobe7500 The limiting / CT function works independently of the battery or solar configuration, so you will be able to use your battery powered 1ks and it will limit itself to the load. I created a short video to explain how the different settings interact.
ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html
Regarding the metal busbar, it sounds like parallel connection of two 1ks to each CT will solve that. I thought about writing it up here but it got a bit messy so will be doing a video on it soon.
@@thedabbler2753 Thank you. I learned so much from the short video and now understand how I can use my CTs in night time battery mode.
I have watched (I think) every RUclips on the blue box GTIL1&2k created over the last 6 years and the batter function has never been successfully understood or explained that I now of.
I look forward to your next video (above mentioned). I will be looking for it.
Now off to order two more GTIL1ks.
@@benkanobe7500 Just following up. How did it pan out for you?
Can we extend CT sensor cable for extra length?
Is it still accurate?
It is. Make sure to use shielded twisted pair cable (STP). You should be able to get around 30m / 100ft.
great video, whne the unit stops working and you check DC fuses and they are good , do i haev to take out the MOSFETs ? anything else i can check before desoldering all of them... thank you in advance .
There are quite a few reasons it might be failing. If there are bad MOSFETs then testing and replacing them may work provided nothing else is wrong. While I can't offer a solution, here are a few good threads around the net on this. See...
community.openenergymonitor.org/t/repairing-sun-1000gtil2-or-2000gtil2/14947
facebook.com/groups/1532777123642307/user/100000496450995/
I have a similar one but when i put on load, it works for a short time and turns off grid power for the whole house. What could be the problem.
I'm sorry to hear that. When you say similar, what model of inverter is it, and how do you have it wired to your house?
Can this be added to a home that previously had solar installed in the past? To just add a bit more power
I see no reason why not. If you have a net metering agreement still in place you can probably do away with the CT / zero export, making setup easier.
I’m glad you say that because I’ve had so many people tell me that the power put a second meter in with solar so that if you add power it charges you for it
Just don’t want to make my situation worse, your video was awesome cause I had so many questions for the USA setup for split phase 240 into 120 lines
@@cenval999 they may have a point where there is a second meter, in which case you can just add the CT's for the GTIL and reduce the house load. To the utility, the approved grid tie already in place is just sending more of it's anticipated generation back to them because the GTIL is doing the house. Should be transparent.
Hi, which direction you hook up the 2 clamps? is it matter?
Make sure both are the same direction. If the GTIL reading is negative flip them.
Hello great video
I hooked up my 2x ct clamp on each string of pannel
It seems to only read 1 side...
And the wattage of grid taken dont drop.. on mine but it inject solar wattage
There could be multiple issues. Make sure internal limiter is checked (see ruclips.net/video/_FxgATQuSaA/видео.html), then ensure the CTs are facing the same way on each phase. If the watts is negative on the GTIL they are the wrong way.
We have the 2000 watt version however it stopped working do they have an internal fuse it says lifetime warranty what's the page on Amazon disappeared thank you in advance
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you get any sort of error message on the display? There are quite a few reasons they fail, both on the AC and the DC side.
There are a couple of Facebook groups [1] you can join that may be able to help you diagnose errors and part level failures. Otherwise it's try and chase the warranty or buy a new unit I'm afraid.
As regards warranty work, the SunG units are made in various factories from a reference design, and then resold through numerous resellers that come and go quite quickly, meaning the warranty after the Amazon return window may be worthless.
If you can track your reseller down, they usually try to work with you via email. It is unlikely they will swap the unit out, but you can try. More often they suggest the part(s) to replace, but that requires electronics skills. The individual components (fuses, mosfets, capacitors, etc) are not very expensive, and it is possible to buy the GTIL's mainboard and display unit on places like AliExpress for cheaper than a whole new unit, but you will be waiting a while for it to arrive.
Given the price point, and cost of your time, you may just have to order a new unit. Before you hook it up, try to understand what went wrong with the first unit. On the DC side, over current or over voltage can damage the unit. e.g. VOC exceeds the limit on a cold day,.amps exceed the 30A max, etc. On either DC or AC surges can damage the unit. You need to ensure adequate surge protection and breakers on either side. Further to that, do not run the units too hard. Set an amp or watt limit in the configuration.
[1] facebook.com/groups/1455824754596738/posts/2133319323513941/
I ordered two of the gtil 2000 units today for use in a U.S. split phase setup. Your video was the most helpful I found on how to configure the setup. Are you still using yours?
@@happydingo6435 I am indeed. 11kWh of production so far today. Good luck with yours!
@@thedabbler2753 thx - my house is already entirely off grid except for my 4 ton central air system. I hope to use the two gtil 2000 units to zero out the load presented by the AC unit which is about 3800 watts when the compressor is running. I wondered if each of my two gtil should be connected to its own 110v hot leg and neutral, or raise the output voltage on each gtil to 220v and connect both gtils in parallel to l1 and l2. I guess still a little confused!
@@happydingo6435 if you're using the 2k, you have to do the latter. The L and N on the GTIL are treated as the two hots in a 240v circuit, so go into a double pole breaker. The G goes to the ground bar. None of it should connect to the neutral bar in the breaker panel.
This doesn't make sense to me because when you connect the GTL to a double breaker, you are connecting both lines to only one leg (120 volt) of the two legs on the breaker box. It seems to me that the GTL lines should go to a breaker on each of the two 120 volt legs in the breaker box.
That's not how a double pole breaker works. I've included a link for you to have a look at at the end of this reply. Scroll down to the bit about the dryer plug as the 2k GTIL is essentially working the same way. You'll see that the L1 and L2 look like a zipper. When a double pole goes in it touches both at the same time. That is why this works. I hope it clarifies things for you. theengineeringmindset.com/120-240v-split-phase-us-can/
Great info, Thanks for posting
Hello