I've been running one of these (1000w) for about 2 year now on a small 500w turbine I just really needed it for when the wind was real strong and my battery bank was full. The menu isn't the easiest to understand and I'm still not sure how it all goes but if you look at the set menu 16.09 you can see there is a dump load set point and a overload set point, the overload will brake the turbine by shorting and the dump by burning off at the resistor. I replaced my resistor with a better one as like yourself didn't feel the one in the box was very good. You can use both dump and short at the same time or just one or the other. I use both at the same time to keep the head down on the resistor The overload won't stop the turbine just slow it down so great for crazy winds, you will get a shorted message on screen when it kick in then after about 60sec you will hear a click as it lets go and the turbine will pick up again. The two terminals next to the three red inputs are for your limiter C.T cable one is for the internal limiter the other for the external, you won't need these if your pushing to the grid. You also have a power curve which you can set and turn off or on this is where I get lost as I don't really understand anything about turbine power curves or how it's supposed to be set so if you work it out I'd be happy to hear how it goes. mine is a 24v and was set from the factory starting at 10 through to 90. yours look to be set a little strange with the first three set the same at 124 the next four at 140-141 then a big jump on the last two. I guess you could turn it on and see how it goes. My fans kick in at around 400-450w so most of the time it runs silent. overall I've been happy with mine but have nothing to compare it with. I'll be interested to see how you get on with yours over the next few month. As always have fun.
I think the powercurve setting depends on the turbine size and wind conditions. If it tends to spinn up to easy give it some more amps in the lower voltage range and visa versa
I have the same 1000W 24V unit and I’ve been very pleased with it. The tricky bit is adjusting the power curve to suit your turbine. I have only a 400W wind turbine and the dump load is never used. The only time the dump load is activated is when I save changes to the power curve and the controller unloads the wind turbine while it saves the new values. If there is a lot of wind, the turbine will run away and activate the dump load. Once the values are saved, the grid is reconnected and the turbine voltage is pulled back down.
Same here John Beattie, but more like 5 years with no trouble and no batteries and home made turbine. Decided with the price of power Id splash out on a i 2000 2kw turbine and new inverter, so far no better than my previous as regards power generally but on the standard settings it did blast up to 1400 watts once then went over voltage and disconnected the inverter and shorted the dumpload as designed cos the circuit involves bits that will fry over 90 volts. Changed some of the settings and brought down the max voltages and midrange and its so far behaving well enough. I think the slow start is charging capacitors not power to resistor. Bit disappointed with power output so far from the mill, I was hoping it would put out more power at lower wind speed, but I suppose there is the same amount of power in a given swept area. might have been better spending the money on more and bigger magnets and built a new genny. Live and learn.
Health Last year, I got a product called the 2000W 3 Phase Wind Turbine Grid Tie Inverter Limiter AC 45-90V SUN 2000GTIL WAL, but it doesn't work at all? The wind turbine's input readings are correct but the inverter's output readings are essentially zero? Where should one turn for help in this matter? greeting.
Die Kennlinie muss programmiert werden. Wenn das nicht erledigt wird, kann die Turbine nicht auf Drehzahl kommen. Ich selbst habe eine 300w Turbine. Bei mir sehen die Einstellungen in etwa so aus. 32V 0.0A; 50V 0,0A; 60V 0,0A; 65V 3,0A; 70V 7,9A Wie gesagt für eine 300W Turbine. Du solltest auch den Dumpload richtig einstellen, dieser verhindert auch das Drehen der Turbine. GLG aus dem Fichtelgebirge Volker U0 32 V 0-0 U1 50 V 0-0 U2 60 V 0-0 U3 65 V 3-0 U4 70 V 7-9
Thanks I'm sure it's a settings issue. Someone sent me a copy of the manual I'm going to be going through it today to see what can be adjusted. I do know that no matter how it's adjusted, though, the resistor that comes with it has no chance of actually slowing down the turbine.
@@ToysforWatts Ich habe jetzt die Einstellungen für die selbe Windturbine mit 600W Leistung gefunden. Vielleicht kann man mit beiden Werten ein Diagramm erstellen. Dumpload ist nicht sehr wichtig! Wichtig ist das die Windturbine bei gewisser Leistung genügend Abnahme hat. Dadurch dreht sich die Turbine langsamer. Dumpload nur über die Batterie Bank durchführen. Ist besser. Hier die Werte für das 600W Modell. …………...........V ....A …………... 0 ... 27 ... 0,0 ……………. 1 ... 45 ... 1,3 ……………. 2 ... 55 ... 3,0 ……………. 3 ... 62 ... 5,0 ……………. 4 ... 68 ... 8,0 GLG aus dem Fichtelgebirge Germany Volker
Try adjusting the amps in yhe setupp menu so that it starts generating power at lower voltages. Set 48v to 050, 52v to 160, 56v to 250 and 60v to 255 the rest will auto adjust to 255. Also set dump load to kick in at 60v and short cut to 75v.
I will try those settings and see what happens. I can't get the manufacturer to tell me what any of those settings are actually supposed to do...they're not mentioned in the manual at all.
Yes friend. That inverter is perfect and is doing its job fantastically. But you have to adjust the braking voltage in your case to 48 volts. You have to set the braking voltage of the windmill to 102.4 volts because that inverter is mppt before entering the mppt circuit the voltage is high if the inverter does not charge the mill then the way to know when to stop it due to excess rpm is in the no-load voltage 102.4vun greeting
Interesting. I have one of these myself that im planing to try with a 48v 2kw turbine, I saw others that had the same problem with resistor staying on to long. Probably made like that to save the unit from overvoltage. The kick in point for the resiator can be adjusted but not higher then 80v i think. Im thinking using it in combination with a batt charger would be a solution, just open the sun 2000 and tap off from the dc side of the rectifier to a batt charger input. Should help to tame it in strong winds I guess
Ever since starting this I have been told about capacitors...but I have never seen a working example. I'm not convinced they can properly load up a turbine and wouldn't know where to start to try and build my own.
This will be interesting, I bought one of the these about a month ago but not installed it yet. If it is runs 100% to grid is the dump load redundant? If you take apart a 3Kw fan heater all it is inside is a thin gauge coil spring element of no great length. I think this dump load would soak up alot of energy. The Tessup charge controller dump load is the same style and very poor build quality in comparison. I would be interested if you can show us what voltage is going to the dump load, could it be diverted and used to charge a lifePo4 battery bank? Cheers man! Gaz
Voltage at the dump load is always turbine voltage....if it says it's kicking out 45v there's 45v at the dump, same at 80v, and everywhere else. I'm actually looking for an old space heater to wire into the dump load lol
Hallo i want some help thanks the inverter when working on the network brakes the wind turbine at 40 to 43 volts and does not let it work. when it is not working on the grid it lets the wind turbine work at 80 to 85volts but still does not provide energy. can you give any advice to make it work?
Hi there ,I need your help, I bought one dam same things from EBay and connect everything as it should but never LD screen will be one also no electricity will come out ,just I can see dam load has got power DC for a sure,could you please tell me where I’m wrong?
Ik heb de 1000 watt versie en gewoon met een plus en min aansluiting en zo hield ik de accu's tussen de 55 en 50 volt .maar dan durfde ik niet weg te gaan . Kreeg ook de melding dat de spanning te hoog was heb er twee zonnepanelen parallel met de I1500 op aangesloten . Weet niet wat er in de nacht gebeurd als de panelen niks leveren maar gaat tot nu toe goed . Had nu alleen wel de 2000 watt moeten hebben omdat de zonnepanelen ook al 450 wat doen met de zon er op ! Maar kan nu gewoon weg gaan de I1500 en de zonnepanelen werken goed samen, kan nu alleen niet de I1500 omhoog draaien dan komt er teveel watt binnen deze staat nu op 6 meter hoogte kan naar 11 meter met de lier . Verder zit ik met veel plezier te kijken hoe jij dit gaat oplossen, groeten Piet de Vries
I have solar panels, but I would like to supplement them with a wind turbine minus batteries. How would I set this up? The solar system is leased, so I cannot do anything with them.
I wonder if you’ve had any success with this controller? I’ve the 1000W 24V version and once I got the power curve dialled in, it produces a lot more power than if I just connect the turbine directly to the batteries.
@@pgfox2002 my settings won’t be of any use to you. What I did was impedance match the controller to the generator. In my case the resistance was 6 ohms so I set the current draw on the controller such that the impedance appeared the same as the generator. As an example, @ 24V I set the current to 4A, @ 36V I set the current to 6A. Above 36V all the Amp settings were set to 6A as the generator became saturated and no matter what the RPM, the generator could not produce more than 6A. Connected directly to the 24V battery the max 6A would produce 144W but with the controller the generator was allowed to produce 6A at 50V i.e 300W. The max I saw was about 350W.
It must have a defect this one. Mine also puts dc voltage to the dump teeminals when no resistor connected, must be some lekage from electronics, it lets no effect trough. Resistor only gets power when dump voltage setpoint is reached.
That resistor looks like a inferred heater tube mite work and give ya some heat mite just be for shutting down unhook the resistor and use the resistor for shutting down only
I,m sure you wired it up wrong. After 2kw goes into the grid ,anything more goes into the dump load. Or in your case batteries. The dump load being red hot means all the power created wend into dump load not the grid. Any way that's my 2 cents worth. Cheers from Tassie
Since it doesn't seem to be working properly I have to assume that it's possible, but I'm not sure how I could have wired it incorrectly...the only wiring I get to do is grid, turbine, and dump load...all of which are difficult to mix up.
Maybe it's the box ticked of the dump load in settings. I got the same set-up, but only had it for 3 days thus far and no wind. So I can't tell you yet. But the dump load glowing red hot is a big no no .cheers jerry
Its design to work with 40-90V, so you have to have a 48v turbine to use it. This test is really a waste of time, you could have bought the 12-30v version (1000w) and will do better job than this
I've been running one of these (1000w) for about 2 year now on a small 500w turbine I just really needed it for when the wind was real strong and my battery bank was full. The menu isn't the easiest to understand and I'm still not sure how it all goes but if you look at the set menu 16.09 you can see there is a dump load set point and a overload set point, the overload will brake the turbine by shorting and the dump by burning off at the resistor. I replaced my resistor with a better one as like yourself didn't feel the one in the box was very good.
You can use both dump and short at the same time or just one or the other. I use both at the same time to keep the head down on the resistor
The overload won't stop the turbine just slow it down so great for crazy winds, you will get a shorted message on screen when it kick in then after about 60sec you will hear a click as it lets go and the turbine will pick up again.
The two terminals next to the three red inputs are for your limiter C.T cable one is for the internal limiter the other for the external, you won't need these if your pushing to the grid.
You also have a power curve which you can set and turn off or on this is where I get lost as I don't really understand anything about turbine power curves or how it's supposed to be set so if you work it out I'd be happy to hear how it goes. mine is a 24v and was set from the factory starting at 10 through to 90. yours look to be set a little strange with the first three set the same at 124 the next four at 140-141 then a big jump on the last two. I guess you could turn it on and see how it goes.
My fans kick in at around 400-450w so most of the time it runs silent. overall I've been happy with mine but have nothing to compare it with.
I'll be interested to see how you get on with yours over the next few month.
As always have fun.
I think the powercurve setting depends on the turbine size and wind conditions. If it tends to spinn up to easy give it some more amps in the lower voltage range and visa versa
I have the same 1000W 24V unit and I’ve been very pleased with it. The tricky bit is adjusting the power curve to suit your turbine. I have only a 400W wind turbine and the dump load is never used. The only time the dump load is activated is when I save changes to the power curve and the controller unloads the wind turbine while it saves the new values. If there is a lot of wind, the turbine will run away and activate the dump load. Once the values are saved, the grid is reconnected and the turbine voltage is pulled back down.
Same here John Beattie, but more like 5 years with no trouble and no batteries and home made turbine. Decided with the price of power Id splash out on a i 2000 2kw turbine and new inverter, so far no better than my previous as regards power generally but on the standard settings it did blast up to 1400 watts once then went over voltage and disconnected the inverter and shorted the dumpload as designed cos the circuit involves bits that will fry over 90 volts. Changed some of the settings and brought down the max voltages and midrange and its so far behaving well enough. I think the slow start is charging capacitors not power to resistor. Bit disappointed with power output so far from the mill, I was hoping it would put out more power at lower wind speed, but I suppose there is the same amount of power in a given swept area. might have been better spending the money on more and bigger magnets and built a new genny. Live and learn.
Health
Last year, I got a product called the 2000W 3 Phase Wind Turbine Grid Tie Inverter Limiter AC 45-90V SUN 2000GTIL WAL, but it doesn't work at all?
The wind turbine's input readings are correct but the inverter's output readings are essentially zero?
Where should one turn for help in this matter?
greeting.
any udpate ur your problem sir.? i want o buy also with my 48v 800w WT China Made
Die Kennlinie muss programmiert werden. Wenn das nicht erledigt wird, kann die Turbine nicht auf Drehzahl kommen. Ich selbst habe eine 300w Turbine. Bei mir sehen die Einstellungen in etwa so aus. 32V 0.0A; 50V 0,0A; 60V 0,0A; 65V 3,0A; 70V 7,9A
Wie gesagt für eine 300W Turbine. Du solltest auch den Dumpload richtig einstellen, dieser verhindert auch das Drehen der Turbine. GLG aus dem Fichtelgebirge Volker
U0 32 V 0-0
U1 50 V 0-0
U2 60 V 0-0
U3 65 V 3-0
U4 70 V 7-9
Thanks I'm sure it's a settings issue. Someone sent me a copy of the manual I'm going to be going through it today to see what can be adjusted. I do know that no matter how it's adjusted, though, the resistor that comes with it has no chance of actually slowing down the turbine.
@@ToysforWatts Ich habe jetzt die Einstellungen für die selbe Windturbine mit 600W Leistung gefunden. Vielleicht kann man mit beiden Werten ein Diagramm erstellen. Dumpload ist nicht sehr wichtig! Wichtig ist das die Windturbine bei gewisser Leistung genügend Abnahme hat. Dadurch dreht sich die Turbine langsamer. Dumpload nur über die Batterie Bank durchführen. Ist besser. Hier die Werte für das 600W Modell.
…………...........V ....A
…………... 0 ... 27 ... 0,0
……………. 1 ... 45 ... 1,3
……………. 2 ... 55 ... 3,0
……………. 3 ... 62 ... 5,0
……………. 4 ... 68 ... 8,0
GLG aus dem Fichtelgebirge Germany Volker
Did you get anywhere with the power curve settings with this
Try adjusting the amps in yhe setupp menu so that it starts generating power at lower voltages. Set 48v to 050, 52v to 160,
56v to 250 and 60v to 255 the rest will auto adjust to 255. Also set dump load to kick in at 60v and short cut to 75v.
I will try those settings and see what happens. I can't get the manufacturer to tell me what any of those settings are actually supposed to do...they're not mentioned in the manual at all.
These settings is how much amps it will draw from the generator at the given voltage
@@magvat is 255 (25.5A) as high as it goes? I would think either of the generators will put out considerably more amps.
@@kevinmills5293 I think you can multiply with 1.73 for 3 phase
@@magvat perhaps but the 3 phase input is rectified and I would imagine it is the DC amps that are being measured.
Yes friend. That inverter is perfect and is doing its job fantastically. But you have to adjust the braking voltage in your case to 48 volts. You have to set the braking voltage of the windmill to 102.4 volts because that inverter is mppt before entering the mppt circuit the voltage is high if the inverter does not charge the mill then the way to know when to stop it due to excess rpm is in the no-load voltage 102.4vun greeting
how do you set the braking voltage?
Interesting. I have one of these myself that im planing to try with a 48v 2kw turbine, I saw others that had the same problem with resistor staying on to long. Probably made like that to save the unit from overvoltage. The kick in point for the resiator can be adjusted but not higher then 80v i think. Im thinking using it in combination with a batt charger would be a solution, just open the sun 2000 and tap off from the dc side of the rectifier to a batt charger input. Should help to tame it in strong winds I guess
I guess you can adjust wind curve and cut in voltage, my controllers are a bit funny with cut in , it's hard to get the wind curve right.
Some growatt inverters are 220 like this one and they hook the output to a split transformer I think to get 2 legs of 110 and a nutral.
Looks like a neat little unit. Im sure its just settings. Hope you can figure it out soon, really interested in this.
have you tried looking at a single super capacitor battery they look like a normal battery and should drop in rated at about 48v
Ever since starting this I have been told about capacitors...but I have never seen a working example. I'm not convinced they can properly load up a turbine and wouldn't know where to start to try and build my own.
It's good to know I will not buy one of these for wind. What charge controller do you recomend for 48V LIPHo4?
hi, is the winding single wrapped, is the connection star-shaped, how many mm wire is used?
This will be interesting, I bought one of the these about a month ago but not installed it yet.
If it is runs 100% to grid is the dump load redundant?
If you take apart a 3Kw fan heater all it is inside is a thin gauge coil spring element of no great length. I think this dump load would soak up alot of energy. The Tessup charge controller dump load is the same style and very poor build quality in comparison.
I would be interested if you can show us what voltage is going to the dump load, could it be diverted and used to charge a lifePo4 battery bank?
Cheers man!
Gaz
Voltage at the dump load is always turbine voltage....if it says it's kicking out 45v there's 45v at the dump, same at 80v, and everywhere else. I'm actually looking for an old space heater to wire into the dump load lol
Hallo i want some help thanks
the inverter when working on the network brakes the wind turbine at 40 to 43 volts and does not let it work.
when it is not working on the grid it lets the wind turbine work at 80 to 85volts but still does not provide energy.
can you give any advice to make it work?
Hi there ,I need your help, I bought one dam same things from EBay and connect everything as it should but never LD screen will be one also no electricity will come out ,just I can see dam load has got power DC for a sure,could you please tell me where I’m wrong?
Hi there from the Netherlands. Have you got a Grid tie inverter, for an istabreeze i500 for 12 volts suitable? greet P&D
Ik heb de 1000 watt versie en gewoon met een plus en min aansluiting en zo hield ik de accu's tussen de 55 en 50 volt .maar dan durfde ik niet weg te gaan .
Kreeg ook de melding dat de spanning te hoog was heb er twee zonnepanelen parallel met de I1500 op aangesloten . Weet niet wat er in de nacht gebeurd als de panelen niks leveren maar gaat tot nu toe goed .
Had nu alleen wel de 2000 watt moeten hebben omdat de zonnepanelen ook al 450 wat doen met de zon er op !
Maar kan nu gewoon weg gaan de I1500 en de zonnepanelen werken goed samen, kan nu alleen niet de I1500 omhoog draaien dan komt er teveel watt binnen deze staat nu op 6 meter hoogte kan naar 11 meter met de lier .
Verder zit ik met veel plezier te kijken hoe jij dit gaat oplossen, groeten Piet de Vries
I have solar panels, but I would like to supplement them with a wind turbine minus batteries. How would I set this up? The solar system is leased, so I cannot do anything with them.
Where is wind turbine? I did not see it
Hi everyone, just installed, could someone give me some advice on how to set the parameters in the right way?
I wonder if you’ve had any success with this controller? I’ve the 1000W 24V version and once I got the power curve dialled in, it produces a lot more power than if I just connect the turbine directly to the batteries.
Kevin - could you share the settings you dialled in please? I’ve got the i2000 and I’m attempting to up the power output
@@pgfox2002 my settings won’t be of any use to you. What I did was impedance match the controller to the generator. In my case the resistance was 6 ohms so I set the current draw on the controller such that the impedance appeared the same as the generator. As an example, @ 24V I set the current to 4A, @ 36V I set the current to 6A. Above 36V all the Amp settings were set to 6A as the generator became saturated and no matter what the RPM, the generator could not produce more than 6A. Connected directly to the 24V battery the max 6A would produce 144W but with the controller the generator was allowed to produce 6A at 50V i.e 300W. The max I saw was about 350W.
It must have a defect this one. Mine also puts dc voltage to the dump teeminals when no resistor connected, must be some lekage from electronics, it lets no effect trough. Resistor only gets power when dump voltage setpoint is reached.
That resistor looks like a inferred heater tube mite work and give ya some heat mite just be for shutting down unhook the resistor and use the resistor for shutting down only
This resistor is the only one that came with the unit and it's not capable of shutting down a 2000w turbine.
Not a good idea i think it would overvoltage and fry the unit without the resistor.
I,m sure you wired it up wrong. After 2kw goes into the grid ,anything more goes into the dump load. Or in your case batteries. The dump load being red hot means all the power created wend into dump load not the grid. Any way that's my 2 cents worth. Cheers from Tassie
Since it doesn't seem to be working properly I have to assume that it's possible, but I'm not sure how I could have wired it incorrectly...the only wiring I get to do is grid, turbine, and dump load...all of which are difficult to mix up.
Maybe it's the box ticked of the dump load in settings. I got the same set-up, but only had it for 3 days thus far and no wind. So I can't tell you yet. But the dump load glowing red hot is a big no no .cheers jerry
You have not set up the power curve
💡😎👍 ⚡
Its design to work with 40-90V, so you have to have a 48v turbine to use it. This test is really a waste of time, you could have bought the 12-30v version (1000w) and will do better job than this
For sure, that resistor is a toy and can't handle the watts.
That resistor looks like a heatertube from a outside IR-heating unit you'd see at bars etc. Some are easily 2kw units.
that thing sucks, sorry you wasted you're cash on it.
About 60% of my channel is wasting my money to try and show people why they shouldn't waste theirs :D
@@ToysforWatts can you show me how you wired that up so it is connected to your batteries? and how do you keep it from draining the batteries?