Matt, This was extremely helpful. I bought one of these lenses with the diaphragm frozen and opening up the back per your instructions and cleaning the blades did the trick. I think it is worth mentioning that the pesky ball bearing producing the aperture ring clicks is held in place by a tiny spring located in a hole beneath it. Care should be taken not to lose the spring. Lost tiny springs are the bane of my camera repair experience.
Greeaaaatt. I've removed all the 8 screws from the back and now I've gotta put the stupid ball bearings together! Who the helll thought that was a good idea?!? I should've watched this video first. My 1 minute focuing barrel cleaning job now takes 10 hours.
@@dalbrisco Oh i've made it! Its actually a puzzle. But first, you need to remove the spring from the bottom and attach it on the top so that wehn you place the last plate down, the spring can be reattached to the bottom plate. Then I placed the base plate down on the lens first, then arrange the balls and the thin rods around the ridges so that it'll sit between the bottom plate and the moving plate. Carefully place them and then reattach the spring with a tweezer. ANd then with your steady hands, press the ring firmly so it doesn't move then quickly screw them down. Your done!
oh man, Thank you for your time making these videos and helping us to take care of those lenses that we love so much, I really appreciate it. Thnaks!!!
Someone gave me one of this lens disassembled and without those eight rear screws. Watching your video inspired me to put it back together. The aperture is stuck open and there is a little oil on the front blades. I'll put a video together this week hoping you can help me finish it. Great video!
Matt, thank you so much. your videos help me tremendously. Probably the best clear nicely presented and taped. Thank you for taking the time to help all of us. Mahalo
Hey Matt, thanks for the vid ! Do you have any ressources for someone that disassembled all the screws on the back ? :( every little metal piece and ball bearing came down at once and now i'm left with a puzzle T_T
Matt, by mistake I removed all 8 screws on the back of the lens and 5 ball bearings along with 5 thin curved metal pieces. Do you have a demo on how to reassemble these parts? Thanks! Steve
Matt, thank you for this excellent video. I was able to restore my frozen aperture and it is now working great. Unfortunately, I did manage to lose the tiny ball bearing so my aperture ring is "declicked" for the time being!
My friend, my minolta tube was loose, there were some iron bars and two pieces were thrown out. Do you have a video detailing the reassembly? thank you very much
Hi Matt, love the videos, would you please share the setup of the ball bearing and curved pieces, you talk about if you remove the 8 screws. Unfortunately i didn't see your video before i did this, I can confirm the fiddly nature of it all.
Matt, I figured out how to reassemble the lens. Unfortunately, I lost one of the ball bearings. Amazon sells steel ball bearings in almost any size from 0.5mm and up. Would you know the size of the ball bearings in the MC Rokkor 58mm f/1.4 lens? THANKS!
Hi Steve, You may well have already fixed your lens by now, if not the bearings are usually 1.2mm in diameter 5 of them. I have the same issue as you, i removed the short screws too. I came across the information recently. If you have any tips on how best to put the bearings and thin curved metal pins back, please let me know. Cheers David
@@dalbrisco Hi David, I have three of the Rokkor PF 58mm 1.4 lenses. One of them had the aperture stuck in the open position, so I wanted to learn how to disassemble clean and reassemble these lenses. The most frustrating part of the reassembly was how to manage with these tiny ball bearings. They seems to be "alive" moving about and jumping out of the lens seemingly by themselves. I can't explain it, but it was such a headache. Several times they bounced off my table and landed on the floor. So very difficult to find them - even when sweeping the floor with a magnet. Finally, I resumed putting the lens back together without that 5th ball bearing, and I put the lens away. Months later, the missing ball bearing turned up! It now sits in a very small zip-lock plastic parts bag. I will not attempt to open the lens again to put this little devil back in its place. It's not worth the headache for me. My other two Rokkor lenses work just fine
I watch your video 58mm 1,4 disassembly. I have a Minolta 58mm 1.4 but the rear mount is different. I want to convert to a700 mount not adapting. Not certain how to remove the minolta fd mount. Can you help?
Hi, i just bought one for cheap that had stuck aperture blades. I managed to take it apart, I unstuck the blades quite easily (too much grease). Fast forward to post reassembly : the aperture ring is declicked (lost the bearing...) and the lens cannot stay wide open (it pushes back to ~f2 when I want to go wide open).is this due to the missing bearing? Any idea please? Thank you
Responding to my own question : aperture blades pushback was caused by the aperture bearing that I lost... I managed to replace it by pulling a bearing from a fine point ballpen with a pair of pliers and lots of patience ;) job done: my MCII is almost as good as new. I just need to find a front cap now 😊. Thank you for this useful video
Hi Matt - Thank you for the video - Very informative - I have one question: My diaphragm is stuck wide open - Do I need to mess around the front elements (filter ring, etc.) or can I just follow what you did for the back of the lens to access the diaphragm and see whats going on in there and possible fix it?
Try removing the back glass piece first. That exposes the back of the diaphragm and should let you see if there is any oil buildup on the diaphragm itself. There could also be a mechanical problem that you can identify in the back of the lens. If that fails, try removing the entire diaphragm. This does require you to remove the filter ring holder and the front glass, but isolates the diaphragm so it can be examined and cleaned. If the diaphragm moves smoothly when outside the lens, there is probably a mechanical problem with the lens.
You produce great tutorials! I have a Yashica 50mm 1.4 ML lens, which I tried to disassemble in order to clean it from fungus. Unfortunately unsuccessfully. Yashica 50mm is a very special lens and it seems that the from plate is glued to the body.. It would have been very useful to see how you do it. Do you have any suggestions on how can I open it?
Hey Matt, I stumbled upon your video after a lucky (sorta!) thrift store find of one of these lenses for 80 cents, the glass looks to be in great shape unfortunately can't adapt it for our DSLR I don't think but the focus ring is stuck. in the video you skipped dissassembling that area since you said it would need to go outside and be adjusted back to focus to infinity again, my stupid question, how would one go about doing that / could it be done with no camera? or would it be possible to mark/notate the positioning before? debating on taking it apart and trying it out either way since I mean I'm a buck into it.
Yes it is generally possible to do that without a camera. Just be sure to mark exactly where things line up before loosening up the focusing ring. If you don't optically focus, I also recommend being extra careful when dealing with the focusing mechanism itself as well. If you do take it apart, again, mark exactly where exactly where everything lined up initially The normal procedure for infinity focusing is: 1. With the lens otherwise full reassembled but with the focusing ring only loosely attached, mount the lens on your camera. 2. Adjust the real focus of the lens so that it is optically focused on a distant object (which we'll call infinity) 3. Then turn just the focusing ring (without adjusting the actual focus of the lens) so that the lens indicates an infinity focus. 4. Finally lock the focusing ring back down in this location I generally set the lens infinity focus a hair past optical infinity focus. This allows the lens to properly infinity focus on cameras with ever so slightly incorrect flange distances
awesome, I should be able to handle that, worst case it was...80 cents...best case someone else will be able to enjoy it fully again hopefully!! most of our existing lenses focus to about that point (just a hair over focusing to infinity) so familiar with the idea! never taken a lens apart before but fairly competent with small electronics/computers/etc we shall see! thank you for the thorough response and the video in the first place!
Hi Matt, I was wondering if all the disassembly is necessary to clean oily aperture blades, can't you just use electrical contact spray cleaner, same stuff used to clean electronic boards, it non corrosive, removes oil, and dries fairly quickly, spray it while opening and closing the blades. then let dry. No more unnecessary disassembly.
To only clean the blades, many of the steps in this video can be skipped. If you want to try cleaning the blades in the housing, then just remove the front and back glass and you're all set. I haven't tried contact spray but you need to be very careful if trying to clean the blades in the housing as they can be easily bent and you don't want to get the cleaning solution into the other parts of the lens. For this reason, removing the aperture housing from the rest of the lens is usually a good idea. It also lets more clearly see how effective the cleaning is and where the oil may be Often times the oil is inside the housing itself or on hidden parts of the blades, so I'm not sure how well any spray on cleaning solution will work. In my understanding, you still need to remove the cleaning solution too once it has bound/dissolved the oils. And be sure to test any new cleaning solutions on a small, internal section of blades first (or better, on a spare lens) to make sure it does not damage the coating.
Hi Matt - I took one of these apart and found your video way too late.. as a result, I lost a couple hours just getting it back together so I could tackle it again in the future when I had some more time.. and I knocked the focus alignment out of whack. Do you have any suggestions on how to correct that? It looks like I need to reposition the helicoid a little deeper, which I can do, but I'm hoping there's a quick trick that doesn't involve taking the whole thing apart again..
I mention marking the position where the helicoids detach to make correctly reattaching them easier in some of my later videos, but that doesn't help you much now. Unfortunately, I don't know of a good way to do this besides trial and error. You definitely will have to take the lens apart again though. There are generally 3 important parts in a 50mm MC minolta focusing mechanism: the inner part of the focusing mechanism (that moves up and down), the outer helicoids (which is often brass colored), and the rest of the lens body. The last two parts are usually coupled together, but rotate independently. Here are some general guidelines: 1. Figure out how the diaphragm lever and any other non-focusing pieces have to line up with the main lens body / mounting plate. This is the orientation in which you ultimately want to reattach these parts. 2. Rotate the outer helicoids as far inwards as possible until it stops. Then rotate it back about one turn. This is generally where you want it positioned, but precise alignment may differ. 3. Reattach the inner focusing mechanism in any position to the outer focusing mechanism. Tighten them together fully and note where the important parts from step 1 fall. 4. Based on where the diagram control level falls vs. what your goal from step 1 was, back out and retry in another position. Always keep the outer helicoids in the same position in the lens body between steps 3 and 4. Things to check are: * Diaphragm control level lines up properly. * You can lock the inner focusing mechanism in place so that is goes up and down instead of spinning around in the lens body. The exact orientation is something you may want to figure our in step 1 of the above. * You can focus between the minimum and maximum focusing distances and there is a click at each end. Once you get these lined up, you still have to re-zero the lens, but that only requires a much simper disassembly. Hope that helps and good luck!
Very nice video on one of my all-time favorite lenses, in fact I've adapted it to my Sony a6000. I worked for a camera repair shop in the early 1970s. Minimum disassembly was the rule of the day. Most cleaning was by ultrasonic, I forget the cleaner used; but for aperture blades we cleaned with industrial ether (in very small quanitites!) and then polished with very fine graphite powder, taking care to blow any loose graphite out of the lens interior. Unrelated, but who knows: never clean the inner lens surfaces of the Zeiss Icon rangefinder camera lenses. Their inner surfaces were not hardened and their anti-reflective inner coating was easily wiped off.
How large (mm) is the ball bearing on the aperture? Just bought a lot with this lens, but seems like someone tried fixing the oiled apertures and lost the ball
@@hmApollo101 Thank you, I'll look for something similar. There is surprisingly little information to be found on those little ball bearings despite the popularity of repairing these lenses.
Yes, those are both risks. The key is to use the right tools and use high quality tools. Invest in a nice spanner wrench and some quality jis, Philips, and flat head screwdrivers. They will pay you back many times over
In my lens, the aperture cannot close max to f/11, it can only get to f/5, I opened rear looks like 11:12. And I dont know how I can be that. Any one could help me, please !
I removed the short screws on the back! There were all these tiny ball bearings and little wires that fell out. Now I don't know how to put them back :(
The wires and ball bearings alternate in a ring around the exterior of the mounting plate component. There should be a little groove that they sit in. You may have to fidget around a little to get them slotted into place properly but you should be able to put it all back together
* Spanning wrench (SK Grimes sells a great one) * Small phillips head screwdriver (00 and/or 000. I have been very happy with Wiha screwdrivers) * Small flat head screwdriver * Isopropyl alcohol * Lots of qtips * Cleaning wipes The spanning wrench is the only odd tool, but getting a high quality one is worth the investment. Same goes for the screwdrivers. Invest in a few really nice ones. They will save you time and trouble, and won't strip screws and can help you avoid damaging the lens.
Matt, This was extremely helpful. I bought one of these lenses with the diaphragm frozen and opening up the back per your instructions and cleaning the blades did the trick. I think it is worth mentioning that the pesky ball bearing producing the aperture ring clicks is held in place by a tiny spring located in a hole beneath it. Care should be taken not to lose the spring. Lost tiny springs are the bane of my camera repair experience.
Greeaaaatt. I've removed all the 8 screws from the back and now I've gotta put the stupid ball bearings together! Who the helll thought that was a good idea?!? I should've watched this video first. My 1 minute focuing barrel cleaning job now takes 10 hours.
Yeah did the same, when you figure it out, let me know please.
@@dalbrisco Oh i've made it! Its actually a puzzle.
But first, you need to remove the spring from the bottom and attach it on the top so that wehn you place the last plate down, the spring can be reattached to the bottom plate.
Then I placed the base plate down on the lens first, then arrange the balls and the thin rods around the ridges so that it'll sit between the bottom plate and the moving plate.
Carefully place them and then reattach the spring with a tweezer. ANd then with your steady hands, press the ring firmly so it doesn't move then quickly screw them down. Your done!
oh man, Thank you for your time making these videos and helping us to take care of those lenses that we love so much, I really appreciate it. Thnaks!!!
Someone gave me one of this lens disassembled and without those eight rear screws. Watching your video inspired me to put it back together. The aperture is stuck open and there is a little oil on the front blades. I'll put a video together this week hoping you can help me finish it. Great video!
Matt, thank you so much. your videos help me tremendously. Probably the best clear nicely presented and taped. Thank you for taking the time to help all of us. Mahalo
Hey Matt, thanks for the vid !
Do you have any ressources for someone that disassembled all the screws on the back ? :(
every little metal piece and ball bearing came down at once and now i'm left with a puzzle T_T
Matt, by mistake I removed all 8 screws on the back of the lens and 5 ball bearings along with 5 thin curved metal pieces. Do you have a demo on how to reassemble these parts? Thanks! Steve
Matt, thank you for this excellent video. I was able to restore my frozen aperture and it is now working great. Unfortunately, I did manage to lose the tiny ball bearing so my aperture ring is "declicked" for the time being!
Matt, this is excellent! Thanks for sharing!
My friend, my minolta tube was loose, there were some iron bars and two pieces were thrown out. Do you have a video detailing the reassembly? thank you very much
HII!!!!! THANKS YOU SAVE MY LENS!!!!! I bought a used 58mm 1,4. was faulty... but with your tutorial i fix it!!! Many thanks!
Hi Matt, love the videos, would you please share the setup of the ball bearing and curved pieces, you talk about if you remove the 8 screws. Unfortunately i didn't see your video before i did this, I can confirm the fiddly nature of it all.
David, I did the same thing. Any answers or other videos explaining how to reassemble the 5 thin curved metal pieces with ball bearings? Thanks, Steve
Matt, I figured out how to reassemble the lens. Unfortunately, I lost one of the ball bearings. Amazon sells steel ball bearings in almost any size from 0.5mm and up. Would you know the size of the ball bearings in the MC Rokkor 58mm f/1.4 lens? THANKS!
Hi Steve, You may well have already fixed your lens by now, if not the bearings are usually 1.2mm in diameter 5 of them. I have the same issue as you, i removed the short screws too. I came across the information recently. If you have any tips on how best to put the bearings and thin curved metal pins back, please let me know. Cheers David
@@dalbrisco Hi David, I have three of the Rokkor PF 58mm 1.4 lenses. One of them had the aperture stuck in the open position, so I wanted to learn how to disassemble clean and reassemble these lenses. The most frustrating part of the reassembly was how to manage with these tiny ball bearings. They seems to be "alive" moving about and jumping out of the lens seemingly by themselves. I can't explain it, but it was such a headache. Several times they bounced off my table and landed on the floor. So very difficult to find them - even when sweeping the floor with a magnet. Finally, I resumed putting the lens back together without that 5th ball bearing, and I put the lens away. Months later, the missing ball bearing turned up! It now sits in a very small zip-lock plastic parts bag. I will not attempt to open the lens again to put this little devil back in its place. It's not worth the headache for me. My other two Rokkor lenses work just fine
Thank you for the video Matt. I have a question, how many ball bearings are there for the aperture ring?
There should be just the one that provides the clicking and the stops for the aperture
Hey Matt, thank you for your videos. What is the surface or table called that you are working on. Is it a special table?
I watch your video 58mm 1,4 disassembly. I have a Minolta 58mm 1.4 but the rear mount is different. I want to convert to a700 mount not adapting. Not certain how to remove the minolta fd mount. Can you help?
I like your video. You helped me disassembling my 50mm 1.4 pg :)
Hi, i just bought one for cheap that had stuck aperture blades. I managed to take it apart, I unstuck the blades quite easily (too much grease). Fast forward to post reassembly : the aperture ring is declicked (lost the bearing...) and the lens cannot stay wide open (it pushes back to ~f2 when I want to go wide open).is this due to the missing bearing? Any idea please? Thank you
Responding to my own question : aperture blades pushback was caused by the aperture bearing that I lost... I managed to replace it by pulling a bearing from a fine point ballpen with a pair of pliers and lots of patience ;) job done: my MCII is almost as good as new. I just need to find a front cap now 😊. Thank you for this useful video
Hi Matt - Thank you for the video - Very informative - I have one question: My diaphragm is stuck wide open - Do I need to mess around the front elements (filter ring, etc.) or can I just follow what you did for the back of the lens to access the diaphragm and see whats going on in there and possible fix it?
Try removing the back glass piece first. That exposes the back of the diaphragm and should let you see if there is any oil buildup on the diaphragm itself. There could also be a mechanical problem that you can identify in the back of the lens.
If that fails, try removing the entire diaphragm. This does require you to remove the filter ring holder and the front glass, but isolates the diaphragm so it can be examined and cleaned. If the diaphragm moves smoothly when outside the lens, there is probably a mechanical problem with the lens.
Thank you Matt...Appreciate the help!
You produce great tutorials!
I have a Yashica 50mm 1.4 ML lens, which I tried to disassemble in order to clean it from fungus. Unfortunately unsuccessfully. Yashica 50mm is a very special lens and it seems that the from plate is glued to the body.. It would have been very useful to see how you do it. Do you have any suggestions on how can I open it?
+Vlad Zi Hey man, did you find out how to do it? I've got the same lens with the same problem :/
Thank you I had little fungus on rear element took me 5 minutes to clean up
Hey Matt, I stumbled upon your video after a lucky (sorta!) thrift store find of one of these lenses for 80 cents, the glass looks to be in great shape unfortunately can't adapt it for our DSLR I don't think but the focus ring is stuck. in the video you skipped dissassembling that area since you said it would need to go outside and be adjusted back to focus to infinity again, my stupid question, how would one go about doing that / could it be done with no camera? or would it be possible to mark/notate the positioning before? debating on taking it apart and trying it out either way since I mean I'm a buck into it.
Yes it is generally possible to do that without a camera. Just be sure to mark exactly where things line up before loosening up the focusing ring. If you don't optically focus, I also recommend being extra careful when dealing with the focusing mechanism itself as well. If you do take it apart, again, mark exactly where exactly where everything lined up initially
The normal procedure for infinity focusing is:
1. With the lens otherwise full reassembled but with the focusing ring only loosely attached, mount the lens on your camera.
2. Adjust the real focus of the lens so that it is optically focused on a distant object (which we'll call infinity)
3. Then turn just the focusing ring (without adjusting the actual focus of the lens) so that the lens indicates an infinity focus.
4. Finally lock the focusing ring back down in this location
I generally set the lens infinity focus a hair past optical infinity focus. This allows the lens to properly infinity focus on cameras with ever so slightly incorrect flange distances
awesome, I should be able to handle that, worst case it was...80 cents...best case someone else will be able to enjoy it fully again hopefully!! most of our existing lenses focus to about that point (just a hair over focusing to infinity) so familiar with the idea! never taken a lens apart before but fairly competent with small electronics/computers/etc we shall see! thank you for the thorough response and the video in the first place!
Hi Matt, I was wondering if all the disassembly is necessary to clean oily aperture blades, can't you just use electrical contact spray cleaner, same stuff used to clean electronic boards, it non corrosive, removes oil, and dries fairly quickly, spray it while opening and closing the blades. then let dry. No more unnecessary disassembly.
To only clean the blades, many of the steps in this video can be skipped. If you want to try cleaning the blades in the housing, then just remove the front and back glass and you're all set. I haven't tried contact spray but you need to be very careful if trying to clean the blades in the housing as they can be easily bent and you don't want to get the cleaning solution into the other parts of the lens. For this reason, removing the aperture housing from the rest of the lens is usually a good idea. It also lets more clearly see how effective the cleaning is and where the oil may be
Often times the oil is inside the housing itself or on hidden parts of the blades, so I'm not sure how well any spray on cleaning solution will work. In my understanding, you still need to remove the cleaning solution too once it has bound/dissolved the oils.
And be sure to test any new cleaning solutions on a small, internal section of blades first (or better, on a spare lens) to make sure it does not damage the coating.
Hi Matt - I took one of these apart and found your video way too late.. as a result, I lost a couple hours just getting it back together so I could tackle it again in the future when I had some more time.. and I knocked the focus alignment out of whack. Do you have any suggestions on how to correct that? It looks like I need to reposition the helicoid a little deeper, which I can do, but I'm hoping there's a quick trick that doesn't involve taking the whole thing apart again..
I mention marking the position where the helicoids detach to make correctly reattaching them easier in some of my later videos, but that doesn't help you much now. Unfortunately, I don't know of a good way to do this besides trial and error. You definitely will have to take the lens apart again though.
There are generally 3 important parts in a 50mm MC minolta focusing mechanism: the inner part of the focusing mechanism (that moves up and down), the outer helicoids (which is often brass colored), and the rest of the lens body. The last two parts are usually coupled together, but rotate independently.
Here are some general guidelines:
1. Figure out how the diaphragm lever and any other non-focusing pieces have to line up with the main lens body / mounting plate. This is the orientation in which you ultimately want to reattach these parts.
2. Rotate the outer helicoids as far inwards as possible until it stops. Then rotate it back about one turn. This is generally where you want it positioned, but precise alignment may differ.
3. Reattach the inner focusing mechanism in any position to the outer focusing mechanism. Tighten them together fully and note where the important parts from step 1 fall.
4. Based on where the diagram control level falls vs. what your goal from step 1 was, back out and retry in another position. Always keep the outer helicoids in the same position in the lens body between steps 3 and 4.
Things to check are:
* Diaphragm control level lines up properly.
* You can lock the inner focusing mechanism in place so that is goes up and down instead of spinning around in the lens body. The exact orientation is something you may want to figure our in step 1 of the above.
* You can focus between the minimum and maximum focusing distances and there is a click at each end.
Once you get these lined up, you still have to re-zero the lens, but that only requires a much simper disassembly.
Hope that helps and good luck!
Very nice video on one of my all-time favorite lenses, in fact I've adapted it to my Sony a6000.
I worked for a camera repair shop in the early 1970s. Minimum disassembly was the rule of the day. Most cleaning was by ultrasonic, I forget the cleaner used; but for aperture blades we cleaned with industrial ether (in very small quanitites!) and then polished with very fine graphite powder, taking care to blow any loose graphite out of the lens interior. Unrelated, but who knows: never clean the inner lens surfaces of the Zeiss Icon rangefinder camera lenses. Their inner surfaces were not hardened and their anti-reflective inner coating was easily wiped off.
Thank you, this really helped me!
idk if you will reply but, if my lens cant focus to infinity (its jammed) can you still do this?
How large (mm) is the ball bearing on the aperture? Just bought a lot with this lens, but seems like someone tried fixing the oiled apertures and lost the ball
Did you ever find out the size? I dropped mine.
@@JeffStovall38 I believe it was around 1 or 2mm? I bought a large pack of them on eBay from some Chinese seller, they worked alright
@@hmApollo101 Thank you, I'll look for something similar. There is surprisingly little information to be found on those little ball bearings despite the popularity of repairing these lenses.
Are the rings and screws tight? Any chance of marring the finish or stripping screws?
Yes, those are both risks. The key is to use the right tools and use high quality tools. Invest in a nice spanner wrench and some quality jis, Philips, and flat head screwdrivers. They will pay you back many times over
Which is better compared to the Mc Rokkor PF 50mm f1.7?
there are some diffience ver of 50 f1.7, MC and MD, and all them are better than this 58 1.4
In my lens, the aperture cannot close max to f/11, it can only get to f/5, I opened rear looks like 11:12. And I dont know how I can be that. Any one could help me, please !
THANK YOU!!! REALLY HELPS!!!!
I removed the short screws on the back! There were all these tiny ball bearings and little wires that fell out. Now I don't know how to put them back :(
The wires and ball bearings alternate in a ring around the exterior of the mounting plate component. There should be a little groove that they sit in. You may have to fidget around a little to get them slotted into place properly but you should be able to put it all back together
Matt Bierner Thanks for your answer! I will try again this weekend.
How can I tell the difference between version 1 vs 2?
DannySkateTV The easiest way is to look at the focusing grip. A wavy circumstance is MCII, a smooth one is MCI
Great video thanks
Tools.?
* Spanning wrench (SK Grimes sells a great one)
* Small phillips head screwdriver (00 and/or 000. I have been very happy with Wiha screwdrivers)
* Small flat head screwdriver
* Isopropyl alcohol
* Lots of qtips
* Cleaning wipes
The spanning wrench is the only odd tool, but getting a high quality one is worth the investment. Same goes for the screwdrivers. Invest in a few really nice ones. They will save you time and trouble, and won't strip screws and can help you avoid damaging the lens.