I know this video is old but it helped a lot when doing the repair on my car. To sum up the cluster fuck that is the a8 d3. when the car reaches 90*c it opens the termostat which redirects its coolant to the webasto unit's cutof valve (not active when heating activated) then it passes trough the webasto with no opstruction to a metal pipe near the right fender and goes up as a direct intake to the solenoid valves. the valves then (i unjacked them to get 100% open valves) pass trough the coolant via secondery magnetic pump to the heater cores *yes 2 of them. So it goes in the solenoid with a large hose and splits of to 4 litle hoses, on the left side of the solenoid its the passanger side (lhd model) and the upper hose is the return line and the bottom is the feed line, the same goes for the drivers right side. So here is where the trouble can come up, you can get heat up to the cores, but for some reason they are ice cold a second later and that is due to a air pocket ether in the cores (you have 2 bleeder screws for that) and one nasty litle bleader screw that is behind the engine in the middle of the car. (when you look at the turbine 3.0tdi and look at the firewall and 30 cm down you will se a T pipe that has a bleader screw, what happens is that air gets traped there and because the coolant system is massive, you dont have a vacum there and you dont have regular circulation of coolant. when you air that one out, you should get a regular return of coolant which the water pump it self creates and thus you have heeting. Hope this helps someone.
I've had my 08 S8 since may of 2020, always poor heat in the winter, put in new heater cores, flushed, bled, never had good output, always lukewarm. someone reversed the inlet and outlet to the pump unit based on what I'm seeing here. I'm going to go reverse them and see what happens.
and I have heat now. that's what I get for assuming the system was correct before i started on it. at a coolant temp of 63c, the blocking valves start to close off to regulate flow to the heater cores to target what looks like an air temp of 45c when I'm commanding a cabin temp of 22c, with intake air temp of 12c.
I know this video is old but it helped a lot when doing the repair on my car.
To sum up the cluster fuck that is the a8 d3.
when the car reaches 90*c it opens the termostat which redirects its coolant to the webasto unit's cutof valve (not active when heating activated) then it passes trough the webasto with no opstruction to a metal pipe near the right fender and goes up as a direct intake to the solenoid valves. the valves then (i unjacked them to get 100% open valves) pass trough the coolant via secondery magnetic pump to the heater cores *yes 2 of them.
So it goes in the solenoid with a large hose and splits of to 4 litle hoses, on the left side of the solenoid its the passanger side (lhd model) and the upper hose is the return line and the bottom is the feed line, the same goes for the drivers right side.
So here is where the trouble can come up, you can get heat up to the cores, but for some reason they are ice cold a second later and that is due to a air pocket ether in the cores (you have 2 bleeder screws for that) and one nasty litle bleader screw that is behind the engine in the middle of the car. (when you look at the turbine 3.0tdi and look at the firewall and 30 cm down you will se a T pipe that has a bleader screw, what happens is that air gets traped there and because the coolant system is massive, you dont have a vacum there and you dont have regular circulation of coolant.
when you air that one out, you should get a regular return of coolant which the water pump it self creates and thus you have heeting.
Hope this helps someone.
You're a savior man thanks
@@zephaudi glad i can help man :D
Thank you for the info
Thanks!!
I've had my 08 S8 since may of 2020, always poor heat in the winter, put in new heater cores, flushed, bled, never had good output, always lukewarm. someone reversed the inlet and outlet to the pump unit based on what I'm seeing here. I'm going to go reverse them and see what happens.
and I have heat now. that's what I get for assuming the system was correct before i started on it. at a coolant temp of 63c, the blocking valves start to close off to regulate flow to the heater cores to target what looks like an air temp of 45c when I'm commanding a cabin temp of 22c, with intake air temp of 12c.
need help finding a air cleaner assembly with all pipes and sensor
My car is having this problem