I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
These videos are great, thanks so much. Only thing I can add is that when tightening the swivel shaft locknut, another way to get it correctly tightened is according to the service manual to: 1. Tighten until a clearance of .002 - .010 in. (0.05 - 0.25 mm) exists between lower swivel pin washer and gimbal housing mount using a feeler gauge. 2. Strike down on gimbal ring flanges using a plastic hammer. 3. Recheck clearance and tighten locknut as necessary.
The kit for the transom is the best solution to stupid engineering on mercrisers part. Not only making the steering inaccessible, but mercruisers' kit makes for a mechanically unsound repair. As well as there way always leaks water into the boat. I just used this kit for the first time. I can say it saved time and there was no frustration level . J-Tech Marine
Very good video I have a alpha 1 generation 1 with loose steering will your kit work on cutting the top out and rebuild, mine has the same freeplay. thank you Joe
This guy just saved me $3;800. You can’t trust anyone, that’s why I check everything. My gimbal wasn’t worn out the two bolts on the u bolt we’re loose.
In the 70s I started with 280trs drives in new 27ft magnum boats. gimbal were splinted so was the tiller arm. Still no good today the better way latham external string that's the best end of problem
Thanks man! We think we have a leak in the bellows somewhere. When the drive is down there is no leak. As soon as we put it up it pours in like a small waterfall.
Great video and very happy to see there is a way more efficient solution. That being said will your kit work on a alpha one gen 1? I can’t seem to find anything on the gen 1s
Hi, can I know how much you pulled the nuts with the Torque wrench? Thank in advance, I want to do the same job but I can't find an online workshop manual
Hi, Getting ready to reassemble my Merc A1G2 transom assembly. I have concerns about the pin. The pin the goes through the gimbal ring seems like it needs some sort of seal to prevent seawater intrusion. I cannot seem to find it listed anywhere. Should I just put an o-ring in there, or is there a specific seal(s) for the steering ping as it connects through the ring? Thanks in advance.
I am unclear on the u joint bellow and the aluminum ring replacement. You said you made a tool? what does it look like i have been told you can mess this up if not careful.
How stiff/loose should the gimbal be left to right on the pin? When is it too stiff or too loose left to right wise. I think my one is too stiff and can only just be moved by hand. Great video, thanks so much.
I have excessive play left and right on my stern drive my left gimble ring bolt is tightenable but the right is just turning not tightening This is invaluable info Thanks
once you've replaced the wear bushing, and I assume there is only one, at the top, none at the bottom, and everything is reassembled and torqued down properly, how much side to side and up and down play should there be if any. is there anything you can adjust to minimize the play until you replace the wear bushing?
can i do this operation on the Mercruiser TRS stern from 1987,, defect steering arm, and would like to check the worn at the bolt from the gimbal ring and to steering pin..and this look as a easy and quick way to repair the failure....
Keith Sage yes. If your going to do all that work. removing the transom assembly when the engine is out takes only about an hour. and when you go back in you will have the added benefit of a fresh transom seal on your restoration. plus when it is all out the transom is more accessible to check for rot.
@@Andrico77 mine has 3.5” of play…. Yup… time to spend money. Mine affects my steering a lot, I’d say you’re on your way to needing it replaced but if the steering is fine, you could get away with it for now.
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
Just did this repair on my 2001 Sea Ray with a bravo 3, Ron and the products of J-R Marine were a huge money saver, thanks Ron!
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
These videos are great, thanks so much.
Only thing I can add is that when tightening the swivel shaft locknut, another way to get it correctly tightened is according to the service manual to:
1. Tighten until a clearance of .002 - .010 in. (0.05 - 0.25 mm) exists between lower swivel pin washer and gimbal housing mount using a feeler gauge.
2. Strike down on gimbal ring flanges using a plastic hammer.
3. Recheck clearance and tighten locknut as necessary.
34 year old boat running nice, smooth, and tight thanks to these guys.
The kit for the transom is the best solution to stupid engineering on mercrisers part. Not only making the steering inaccessible, but mercruisers' kit makes for a mechanically unsound repair. As well as there way always leaks water into the boat.
I just used this kit for the first time.
I can say it saved time and there was no frustration level .
J-Tech Marine
super informative compared to other videos about bellows replacement! Thanx!!!
Really Good explanation. Greetings from the V8Lounge in Germany
I was wondering why my bravo 1 had that plate bolted on the top. Now I know they used this process.
You just saved me a hell allot of cash! Thanks!
Good video, but I would like to learn more about the name of this brilliant gasket, and where it can be ordered?
Why jump over the most interesting part, how to put on the gear lube hose onto the bell housing? Looking for some tips how to accomplish this easily.
Your kit worked perfect on my Alpha one Gen II. Thanks
Very good video I have a alpha 1 generation 1 with loose steering will your kit work on cutting the top out and rebuild, mine has the same freeplay. thank you Joe
Did you ever find an answer to this? I am wondering the same
This guy just saved me $3;800. You can’t trust anyone, that’s why I check everything. My gimbal wasn’t worn out the two bolts on the u bolt we’re loose.
Awesome video, the kit worked great.
In the 70s I started with 280trs drives in new 27ft magnum boats. gimbal were splinted so was the tiller arm. Still no good today the better way latham external string that's the best end of problem
Ron your video says 55 foot pounds but the paper slip in the kit says 50.
What one should I do?
Thanks man! We think we have a leak in the bellows somewhere. When the drive is down there is no leak. As soon as we put it up it pours in like a small waterfall.
Great video and very happy to see there is a way more efficient solution. That being said will your kit work on a alpha one gen 1? I can’t seem to find anything on the gen 1s
thank you great video baught the kit did it myself saved me alot of money
This is a very good video much appreciated
Hey thank you very much from Germany. Is it possibel to get a repair set from you? I have a Bravo 3 with a Mercruiser 4,2 D-tronic (250 HP each).
Hi, can I know how much you pulled the nuts with the Torque wrench? Thank in advance, I want to do the same job but I can't find an online workshop manual
great job on the video and very thorough
Great video, very informative Thanks
Hi,
Getting ready to reassemble my Merc A1G2 transom assembly. I have concerns about the pin.
The pin the goes through the gimbal ring seems like it needs some sort of seal to prevent seawater intrusion. I cannot seem to find it listed anywhere.
Should I just put an o-ring in there, or is there a specific seal(s) for the steering ping as it connects through the ring?
Thanks in advance.
I am unclear on the u joint bellow and the aluminum ring replacement. You said you made a tool? what does it look like i have been told you can mess this up if not careful.
How stiff/loose should the gimbal be left to right on the pin? When is it too stiff or too loose left to right wise. I think my one is too stiff and can only just be moved by hand. Great video, thanks so much.
Ever get your answer?
I have excessive play left and right on my stern drive my left gimble ring bolt is tightenable but the right is just turning not tightening
This is invaluable info
Thanks
What is the part number for that block off plate ?
You da man. Thanks so much for your help
once you've replaced the wear bushing, and I assume there is only one, at the top, none at the bottom, and everything is reassembled and torqued down properly, how much side to side and up and down play should there be if any. is there anything you can adjust to minimize the play until you replace the wear bushing?
Would you use 3m 5200 sealant instead of permatex?
Can I replace just the gimbal u bolt with removing the whole gimbal housing
Without removing the gimbal housing
can i do this operation on the Mercruiser TRS stern from 1987,, defect steering arm, and would like to check the worn at the bolt from the gimbal ring and to steering pin..and this look as a easy and quick way to repair the failure....
Most parts for TR and TRS are gone. Listen to this guy and you will be in fine shape
Great info!
I plan to restore re-paint, and re-power my Boat. Would it be better to do all the work removing the Gimbel housing?
Keith Sage yes. If your going to do all that work. removing the transom assembly when the engine is out takes only about an hour. and when you go back in you will have the added benefit of a fresh transom seal on your restoration. plus when it is all out the transom is more accessible to check for rot.
Will do..Thanks Jim.
Hello does anyone have the number I can call for the wrenches and JM kit
How much play in drive is too much. Mine swings 1 inch each way
Ever find your answer?
@@Dwq47 nope
@@Andrico77 mine has 3.5” of play…. Yup… time to spend money. Mine affects my steering a lot, I’d say you’re on your way to needing it replaced but if the steering is fine, you could get away with it for now.
You "unloosened" the bolt eh? Doesn't that mean to tighten??
What an unbrilliant and unkind comment.
*gimbal
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.