You forgot to roll the water hose clamp - You're gonna hate if you have any problems later. If it's rolled to the top then you don't have to take anything else off to get to it, but now you'll have to take the bell-housing off just to get to the hose clamp. Live and learn - been there done that.
I think somebody else said that in the comments too. I think if it comes to that I would cut the hose clamp and just get a new one. But yes, you have to be very strategic with the hose clamps. I may have missed one or two of those.
LOL I've been known to find a acorn every now and then. I appreciate the detail in your video's. These full rebuild vid's provide a lot of information that is useful for preventive maintenance, things I hadn't considered looking for. I am currently in the process of Boot replacements on two SeaRays, just did a Engine Coupler & Alignment on a '79 Sundancer and followed up w/ full cable replacements, only to discover that the boots were leaking (4th time pulling the Stern Drive on that one....ARRGGGG). After pulling the Gimble Bell-housing off yesterday (with some good insight from your video's) I found that whoever replaced the boots that last time didn't even get the clamps tight, and after messing around I learned a hard lesson about positioning those bellows clamps "strategically" as you mentioned (lol) for future access. The ones I'm working on are older than the Gen II you're doing and you have some added BS in your way that I don't have on the Alpha Gen I, however...if I had to deal with loose clamps again I would want to be able to get a wrench on them WITHOUT pulling the bellhousing off and making a 4 hr job out of a 15-20 minute job - If ya know what I mean. Lessons learned - that's why I made the comment. You also made the comment about the probability of not even needing the exhaust bellows, but if its not used then the water can back-up in the flapper valves in the exhaust and corrode the mechanism so they don't open and close correctly - another lesson learned the hard way and those are a mother to replace in a tight engine compartment - TRUST ME ON THAT ONE. A wise Man told me: "Experience teaches a hard lesson, so you can learn from others experience or your own, choose the shorter path and learn from others mistakes instead of have to make them yourself. That's why I appreciate your video's and others video's, b/c it helps avoid costly mistakes and HOURS if not DAYS of labor, not to mention senseless money spent on unnecessary parts etc. Thanks for the Vid's bud, keep it up, your helping more people than you realize, even if they don't post comments, they're still out there watching and learning. FINDING ACORNS LOL @@605BOLT
Thanks for your kind words!!!! Sounds like the SeaRays and Sundancer are getting the full treatment! Are you a marine mechanic professionally or a relapsed boat addict? I can't imagine having more than one boat. One is enough headache for me haha. I have never worked on a Gen 1 Alpha. For my next boat, I'd like a Bravo so I can learn on something a little different. I never thought of corrosion really due to being on fresh water but you're right that the flappers and height are basically your only defense against surging wake when you stop. Some use the little exhaust tube deal. I'd like to try that sometime. It only seals when its down. Kind of an ingenious idea. I appreciate the words of wisdom and couldn't agree more.
Just a Tip from a 42-year pro mechanic. Freeze your bushings and bearings over night before installation in a freezer (or use a CO2 fire extinguisher to freeze if in a hurry), they install much easier when cold. ;)
For sure. I've used that at work from time to time. Definitely makes a difference. Never tried the fire extinguisher. I have used canned compressed air propellant though. That works too in a pinch. Good info!
I have my Bravo apart and begin reassembly today, first time as well. This video is priceless information to me, not only did you take the time to explain every detail, everything is accurate and you definitely did not skimp on parts, time or effort in any way. Huge confidence boost for me to get this job done! You have my respect brother and I really appreciate the help👊
Keith thanks for the kind words. Of course these videos are on alpha parts, not bravo but I'm sure you knew that by now. They are similar parts but I've never done a bravo. Maybe for my next boat.🤔😂 Glad the videos helped you out some. It was quite a project but the boat is running great with no leaks to this day. Good luck on your project and I hope to see you on the water somewhere down the road. 🍺
I have to say ...you scared me at first..in the previous video......I would have bet against you...only because I didnt' think you would follow through. Now, you have my respect for...going the extra mile....this is not an easy thing to do...its a lost art..., yet you recaptured what it takes to do this properly. You have what it takes to make the impossible, probable. I wish i had your attn to detail..good for you.. and thanks for the painfully descriptive video....this is invaluable stuff..!!!!
Great work. I unfortunately need to replace my gimbal ring as well due to striking a tree at speed. Nobody really covers the gimbal ring in as much detail as you did. Thanks
Great Videos Nice Intros. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but pretty certain you put that seal in wrong. The cup and spring of a seal faces the liquid or pressure side. All in all great video.
Right on. Thanks Jessie. Regarding the seal direction I thought that was strange as well but according to how the seals were pulled out and also how the Mercruiser service manual diagram shows the lip is actually supposed to go up. Aka facing the more slender end of the swivel shaft. I figured it would be different as well based on how seals "keep liquid in" so to speak. But they can also keep it out. Examples being the front main seal of an engine keeping road salt and slop out of an engine or how axle end seals keep the same road grime out of the axle housing. I'm 90% it's right but it goes against my instincts as well. Good eye!
@@605BOLT If your going by the book I wont argue. Though I have known a book or two to have errors. Still this is possibly an exception being the spring would be exposed to salt water if put in the other way. Then again salt water pump seals have bronze springs to mitigate. All in all if its not leaking screw the rules we are all just Oil Rags. LOL
Certainly possible it could be an error. I run in fresh water here and it is dry docked on a trailer and not in a marina slip. I think a case could be made for either direction for sure! Appreciate you watching/commenting. I always like to hear feedback!
Any one know for sure. Just done mine spring facing down as this was the verbal info I had. My boat is about to go back in the marina so I don't want to get it wrong.
I just took mine out, it was installed to keep the water out. The opposite way as done in the video. I then search all the comments to see if others have posted on seal orientation. My vote is for lip side toward water and grease with appropriate grease, re-grease every winter/non use. Please post manual directions if possible.
Yes for sure. Take a look. There is some natural play because of how the valving in the power steering ram reverses fluid and maybe your steering pin pinch bolts are loose. Worst case the steering arm is worn out. Hopefully just loose and can be tightened. Check out my video on gimbal pinch bolts if you want a better idea of what I'm talking about. Good luck!
@@605BOLT nah man, the steering arm is completely rotten, needs replacement. Do you have experience with drilling a hole in the transom, take out the pin from there replace the arm then cover the hole with a stainless steel plate? Like jrmarine? Got a gen2 so should work. What do you recommend, oem or aftermarket for pin and swivel arm? Thx!
I have personally worked with Ron at JR Marine. He is good people. Mention you saw my videos to him! But as to your original question no, I have not drilled and made the fix like you describe although many others have with great success. My engine was already out so it wasn't a big deal to go the long way so to speak and do everything fully removed. But I would talk to Ron and he can guide you through the drilling process. He also has legit OEM parts. Not Chinese replicas so he's a great one stop shop. Hope this helps. 👍
@@605BOLT cool man I will contact them and mention you. Not sure if they will ship to Holland Europe. Thx for your help, appreciated. Subbed, keep up the good work!!
Makes me appreciate being able to just go in the back and grab a part. What's the part number for the brass fitting for the oil line. Not the plastic OEM One.
Who sold it to you or did you just put that brass fitting on the end of the OEM plug that goes through the housing? I do alpha drives on a regular and they break all the time-
@@hedgepethracing9590 I bought it all as is. Nobody sold me a brass fitting so if what you're saying is true then somebody must have changed it before me.
Hey good video.detail by detail 👍🏻I have that problem right now my boat is leaking water inside from that same top seal but I don’t know what outdrive I have so I can order the parts the outdrive is painted in black my boat it’s a 1994 crownline 250c with a 7.4 v8 mercruiser any info would help thanks 🙏
Thanks for the kind words. Since its a big block, I would guess it's a bravo. Check out my other video here to be sure. It helps you identify what you have. The boat used in my videos is an alpha one gen 2. ruclips.net/video/-bOC5wdotvA/видео.htmlsi=d5axjJIsbAPHxugt
I'm fresh water here but I can tell u there is zero percent chance I will ever buy a boat that has had a history with salt water. That is another huge headache to have to deal with. Thanks for the kind words! 🙏
Serega, I don't know what the dimensions are of the swivel shaft. I would call JR Marine and ask Ron what the sizes are. He makes new ones so he would be very familiar with their dimensions.
Guy wanting me to fix one he hit a stump steering locked up even with the cable unhooked lower unit wont steer dont think i want any thing to do with it
I’m gonna share with all you guys a little secret, we go to tractor supply you could buy a PTO shaft bearing from a tractor is the same bearings you gotta use the outside sheer Ribery protector as a goalie in the PTO, chef Mary seem to be better than a MerCruiser Barry MerCruiser bearings I go out Almost every day with my boat 10 hour shifts and drawing and I was going through one gimbal bearing a year and with his PTO one now it’s been three years. I don’t know what the difference is but it seems to be a better bearing I’m just sharing information and $18 for the bearing at tractor supply Before the rain delay
ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxstpYujzHJz_gVXHH29Rpfph1dZuajbca?feature=shared thanks dude I’m taking on the bellows job tomorrow, I think the scariest part is taking apart the shift cable and putting it back together 😅
So the hose clamp on the hose is not positioned so you can access it in the future and you probably don’t want to take all of this off again just for the hose. Just a thought.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
You forgot to roll the water hose clamp - You're gonna hate if you have any problems later.
If it's rolled to the top then you don't have to take anything else off to get to it, but now you'll have to take the bell-housing off just to get to the hose clamp.
Live and learn - been there done that.
I think somebody else said that in the comments too. I think if it comes to that I would cut the hose clamp and just get a new one. But yes, you have to be very strategic with the hose clamps. I may have missed one or two of those.
I seen in the next video that you actually rolled it up to the top 👍@@605BOLT
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again haha
LOL
I've been known to find a acorn every now and then.
I appreciate the detail in your video's.
These full rebuild vid's provide a lot of information that is useful for preventive maintenance, things I hadn't considered looking for.
I am currently in the process of Boot replacements on two SeaRays, just did a Engine Coupler & Alignment on a '79 Sundancer and followed up w/ full cable replacements, only to discover that the boots were leaking (4th time pulling the Stern Drive on that one....ARRGGGG). After pulling the Gimble Bell-housing off yesterday (with some good insight from your video's) I found that whoever replaced the boots that last time didn't even get the clamps tight, and after messing around I learned a hard lesson about positioning those bellows clamps "strategically" as you mentioned (lol) for future access. The ones I'm working on are older than the Gen II you're doing and you have some added BS in your way that I don't have on the Alpha Gen I, however...if I had to deal with loose clamps again I would want to be able to get a wrench on them WITHOUT pulling the bellhousing off and making a 4 hr job out of a 15-20 minute job - If ya know what I mean.
Lessons learned - that's why I made the comment.
You also made the comment about the probability of not even needing the exhaust bellows, but if its not used then the water can back-up in the flapper valves in the exhaust and corrode the mechanism so they don't open and close correctly - another lesson learned the hard way and those are a mother to replace in a tight engine compartment - TRUST ME ON THAT ONE.
A wise Man told me:
"Experience teaches a hard lesson, so you can learn from others experience or your own, choose the shorter path and learn from others mistakes instead of have to make them yourself.
That's why I appreciate your video's and others video's, b/c it helps avoid costly mistakes and HOURS if not DAYS of labor, not to mention senseless money spent on unnecessary parts etc.
Thanks for the Vid's bud, keep it up, your helping more people than you realize, even if they don't post comments, they're still out there watching and learning. FINDING ACORNS LOL @@605BOLT
Thanks for your kind words!!!! Sounds like the SeaRays and Sundancer are getting the full treatment! Are you a marine mechanic professionally or a relapsed boat addict? I can't imagine having more than one boat. One is enough headache for me haha. I have never worked on a Gen 1 Alpha. For my next boat, I'd like a Bravo so I can learn on something a little different. I never thought of corrosion really due to being on fresh water but you're right that the flappers and height are basically your only defense against surging wake when you stop. Some use the little exhaust tube deal. I'd like to try that sometime. It only seals when its down. Kind of an ingenious idea. I appreciate the words of wisdom and couldn't agree more.
Just a Tip from a 42-year pro mechanic. Freeze your bushings and bearings over night before installation in a freezer (or use a CO2 fire extinguisher to freeze if in a hurry), they install much easier when cold. ;)
For sure. I've used that at work from time to time. Definitely makes a difference. Never tried the fire extinguisher. I have used canned compressed air propellant though. That works too in a pinch. Good info!
I have my Bravo apart and begin reassembly today, first time as well. This video is priceless information to me, not only did you take the time to explain every detail, everything is accurate and you definitely did not skimp on parts, time or effort in any way. Huge confidence boost for me to get this job done! You have my respect brother and I really appreciate the help👊
Keith thanks for the kind words. Of course these videos are on alpha parts, not bravo but I'm sure you knew that by now. They are similar parts but I've never done a bravo. Maybe for my next boat.🤔😂 Glad the videos helped you out some. It was quite a project but the boat is running great with no leaks to this day. Good luck on your project and I hope to see you on the water somewhere down the road. 🍺
I have to say ...you scared me at first..in the previous video......I would have bet against you...only because I didnt' think you would follow through. Now, you have my respect for...going the extra mile....this is not an easy thing to do...its a lost art..., yet you recaptured what it takes to do this properly. You have what it takes to make the impossible, probable. I wish i had your attn to detail..good for you.. and thanks for the painfully descriptive video....this is invaluable stuff..!!!!
This means a lot to me!!! Comments like this are huge motivation. I hope these videos keep some boats on the water!!!! Thank you so much for watching!
Well done... Meticulous attention to detail!
Thank you!!
Awesome detail, Hope I never have to go through this, especially with twin B3’s. Great Job!!
Appreciate you saying that. Ya it was a chore for sure. I figure bravo would be even more involved.
Excellent video, I'm in the meddle of doing the same job and you've helped immensely. Thank you
I appreciate your kind words. That's what the videos are here for. If you have any questions, please reach out. Merry Christmas!
@@605BOLT Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you
@@nelloagostini4389 🙏
Thank you👍 This was was the best video out there about this.
🙏 thank you. Hope it got you fixed up!
Great work. I unfortunately need to replace my gimbal ring as well due to striking a tree at speed. Nobody really covers the gimbal ring in as much detail as you did. Thanks
Thanks for commenting. Hope you get it fixed! 🍻
Excellent; you are a good teacher.
Thank you for saying that rcytb.🍻
Great info. I've got a Gen 1, and am rebuilding thanks for posting.
My pleasure! Glad it helped you out. Thanks for commenting and watching!!
This is superb and is a great help. Thanks so much for posting.
My pleasure. Glad you liked it and thanks for commenting!!! 🍻
Great simple video and explanation.
Ready to start my project also.👍
Thank you for saying that! It was a long journey!
@@605BOLT Probably upload some of my repair too. Keep it simple brother. 🙏 Health, wealth and peace.👍
@@hsanguily yes do that. More videos the better. Everyone has different ideas.
Thanks, upcoming event this winter for me.😅
@@Yugsie ya it sucks but when it's done you feel so much better. And the boat drives so much better.
@@605BOLT
It's gotta help around the dock and trailer!
@@Yugsie for sure. It is a little bit wobbly when the gimbal ring is all wore out. You need to make huge steering swings to keep it on track
Great Videos Nice Intros. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but pretty certain you put that seal in wrong. The cup and spring of a seal faces the liquid or pressure side. All in all great video.
Right on. Thanks Jessie. Regarding the seal direction I thought that was strange as well but according to how the seals were pulled out and also how the Mercruiser service manual diagram shows the lip is actually supposed to go up. Aka facing the more slender end of the swivel shaft. I figured it would be different as well based on how seals "keep liquid in" so to speak. But they can also keep it out. Examples being the front main seal of an engine keeping road salt and slop out of an engine or how axle end seals keep the same road grime out of the axle housing. I'm 90% it's right but it goes against my instincts as well. Good eye!
@@605BOLT If your going by the book I wont argue. Though I have known a book or two to have errors. Still this is possibly an exception being the spring would be exposed to salt water if put in the other way. Then again salt water pump seals have bronze springs to mitigate. All in all if its not leaking screw the rules we are all just Oil Rags. LOL
Certainly possible it could be an error. I run in fresh water here and it is dry docked on a trailer and not in a marina slip. I think a case could be made for either direction for sure! Appreciate you watching/commenting. I always like to hear feedback!
Any one know for sure. Just done mine spring facing down as this was the verbal info I had. My boat is about to go back in the marina so I don't want to get it wrong.
I just took mine out, it was installed to keep the water out. The opposite way as done in the video. I then search all the comments to see if others have posted on seal orientation. My vote is for lip side toward water and grease with appropriate grease, re-grease every winter/non use. Please post manual directions if possible.
I like the new intro!
Kind of a cool shot I thought.
Good job buddy 👏 thanks very helpful 👍
Thank you! Have a great weekend! 🇺🇸
Thanks, great vid, got bit of play in the steering, now I know where to look.
Yes for sure. Take a look. There is some natural play because of how the valving in the power steering ram reverses fluid and maybe your steering pin pinch bolts are loose. Worst case the steering arm is worn out. Hopefully just loose and can be tightened. Check out my video on gimbal pinch bolts if you want a better idea of what I'm talking about. Good luck!
@@605BOLT thanks man I will!
@@605BOLT nah man, the steering arm is completely rotten, needs replacement. Do you have experience with drilling a hole in the transom, take out the pin from there replace the arm then cover the hole with a stainless steel plate? Like jrmarine? Got a gen2 so should work. What do you recommend, oem or aftermarket for pin and swivel arm? Thx!
I have personally worked with Ron at JR Marine. He is good people. Mention you saw my videos to him! But as to your original question no, I have not drilled and made the fix like you describe although many others have with great success. My engine was already out so it wasn't a big deal to go the long way so to speak and do everything fully removed. But I would talk to Ron and he can guide you through the drilling process. He also has legit OEM parts. Not Chinese replicas so he's a great one stop shop. Hope this helps. 👍
@@605BOLT cool man I will contact them and mention you. Not sure if they will ship to Holland Europe. Thx for your help, appreciated. Subbed, keep up the good work!!
You don’t need a press to do this you can put this in with your hands. If it’s done right, I install mine just with a piece of wooden block.
Definitely possible.
Great video, very informative!
Thanks for your comment Matt. Hopefully you find it useful! 👍
Makes me appreciate being able to just go in the back and grab a part. What's the part number for the brass fitting for the oil line. Not the plastic OEM One.
👍👍
I don't have that part number off hand. Sorry. I never had to replace the brass fitting on mine.
Who sold it to you or did you just put that brass fitting on the end of the OEM plug that goes through the housing?
I do alpha drives on a regular and they break all the time-
@@hedgepethracing9590 I bought it all as is. Nobody sold me a brass fitting so if what you're saying is true then somebody must have changed it before me.
Thanks for making this video
You're welcome my man. Hopefully many more to come. Thank you for watching. 🍻
Hey good video.detail by detail 👍🏻I have that problem right now my boat is leaking water inside from that same top seal but I don’t know what outdrive I have so I can order the parts the outdrive is painted in black my boat it’s a 1994 crownline 250c with a 7.4 v8 mercruiser any info would help thanks 🙏
Thanks for the kind words. Since its a big block, I would guess it's a bravo. Check out my other video here to be sure. It helps you identify what you have. The boat used in my videos is an alpha one gen 2.
ruclips.net/video/-bOC5wdotvA/видео.htmlsi=d5axjJIsbAPHxugt
I think those oil fittings are after market. The OE ones are nylon and snap.
Interesting. I didn't know that.
Thanks!
Duuuude thank you. You didn't have to do that but it means a lot. Hope your boat is all fixed up!! 🙏
Lots of credit where credit is due. Really curious on cost of completion.
Parts for the outdrive was about 1400 or so.
I keep telling myself labor is free 😂😂
good job man ...dont you love salt water corrosion and what nightmares it causes ....
I'm fresh water here but I can tell u there is zero percent chance I will ever buy a boat that has had a history with salt water. That is another huge headache to have to deal with. Thanks for the kind words! 🙏
Can't wait to see this think Makin a ripp
Soon.👍
Awesome job
Thanks for saying that! It sucked a little to do this project but I'm happy to be done.
Good job
🙏thanks
Thank you for the vid.
@@jimmyjernigan9642 no problem! Thank you for commenting!!!
Quicksilver parts...small fortune there.
It's the good stuff. 👍
Good day everyone! Help, if anyone have size of the original swivel pin and bushings. My new pin has quite big play in it’s
Serega, I don't know what the dimensions are of the swivel shaft. I would call JR Marine and ask Ron what the sizes are. He makes new ones so he would be very familiar with their dimensions.
Nice job. Did you order the parts through JrMarine? Looking at their website and no way to order, unless you need to call them? Thank you
I called them yes. Talked to Ron. Very helpful.
Is there a bushing in the lower gimble pin ??
Been a while since I was in there but I don't think so.
Great vid
Thanks David. Hope it helped! 🤞
Guy wanting me to fix one he hit a stump steering locked up even with the cable unhooked lower unit wont steer dont think i want any thing to do with it
Oh Lord haha. Sounds like an insurance job but maybe a new transom assembly would be easier. Just costs a few more bucks in parts.
Its in a searay boat say pins must be bent why it wont steer its in a severe bind
@@dennisharrison4744 oh man. That's a lot of damage.
I’m gonna share with all you guys a little secret, we go to tractor supply you could buy a PTO shaft bearing from a tractor is the same bearings you gotta use the outside sheer Ribery protector as a goalie in the PTO, chef Mary seem to be better than a MerCruiser Barry MerCruiser bearings I go out Almost every day with my boat 10 hour shifts and drawing and I was going through one gimbal bearing a year and with his PTO one now it’s been three years. I don’t know what the difference is but it seems to be a better bearing I’m just sharing information and $18 for the bearing at tractor supply Before the rain delay
Interesting. I would have never thought to check there. Good idea!
ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxstpYujzHJz_gVXHH29Rpfph1dZuajbca?feature=shared thanks dude I’m taking on the bellows job tomorrow, I think the scariest part is taking apart the shift cable and putting it back together 😅
Ya its all a little iffy your first time but my boat is still running great fixed exactly as these videos show. Been idk how many years now.
So the hose clamp on the hose is not positioned so you can access it in the future and you probably don’t want to take all of this off again just for the hose. Just a thought.
Ya thats a fair point. I don't intend on doing this for another year or two at least.