Just fitted mine today. Only took 15 mins and what a difference it has made . Who knew that 6 mm made all the difference ! The main change has been no more bottoming out on the front end and just feels really connected. So pleased and corners are even more fun through them. Well done Graham and Andy for a great video. Order direct from Graham Chadwick £24.99 posted.
Good work I used to race RD350LCs back in the 80s and basically this is what we did (we used stainless tube cut to length under the fork cap) worked a treat ( we were riding those things really hard) You could go adjustable and emulators but what you have done looks fine 👍
Many thanks for your comments. Those were the days !! Yes not rocket science. Simple common sense engineering. Don't try to invent the wheel. Graham. 😎
Got mine today. 10 minutes to fit !! Didn't take the bars off. Jacked front up , loosened pinch bolt, used trusty 22mm ring spanner. Slightly fiddly but no dramas. Just made sure I put plenty towels on the tank to protect it.
Thanks Mr Dorman and Graham. After seeing" ride with Warro's" review and yours I have ordered some from Graham today. Still waiting for my bike but getting organised with the right stuff now. When i test rode it i though the front end was a bit soft so this will help on the dodgy roads around here in Queensland. I really enjoy your videos. Cheers Ian.
Great video and well done Graham. I have purchased some beautiful bespoke brass parts for my interceptor from Graham and he does an incredible job and will talk through your design.
Hi Mr Dorman - Finally installed the spacers today and what a difference. Only done 700kms on the originals but noticed the immediate difference. The front end seems firmer and not so vague. By the way i noticed you put some wood under your sidestand. The sidestand seems too short to me.
Make a big difference don't they. I'd still like a taller front end though to raise the ground clearance. Pondering on how best to achieve that. Agree re the stand, mine is worse due to the taller rear tyre. Its on my to do list to lengthen.
an excellent video well done you both. I will follow with interest my new machine hopefully arrives on the 9th of this month. So will look at customising as I go forward. well done again. Tony
I have been doing this mod for at least 30 years on tele forks, That is a nice part and yes I have to say the forks are a little soft STD and I am going to do a similar mod.
Having made preload spacers a few time for various bikes, I believe that you've over thought your design. Is there really a need for the spacers to have a lip that limits how far they go down into the fork tubes. All you need to do is create a spacer that increases the distance between the cap and the washer. The washer's purpose is to allow a flat space for the factory spring spacers to rest against the bottom of the fork cap to protect the cap's lip and to provide stability of the upper end of the spacer tube. But as your spacer fits neatly up inside the cap's recess, if the lip was removed, it would still exert pressure on the washer evenly and be able to go down inside the fork tube as far as you like. I've used all manner of ways to increase preload, but the simplest for this fork may be to just cut another spacer tube from a length of the proper OD tube, to the desired length. In other words, measure the length of the factory spacer tube, and add whatever additional preload you want and make a new one of the desired length. By doing this, you can add as much preload as you want. And, if you make it a bit longer than you think you'll need, you can trim the length a bit at a time until you hit the "magic" number for your weight and riding style. Easier to remove metal than add it back... ;-) Although, depending on your rider sag measurements, it may be more appropriate to increase the spring rate than just increasing the preload on springs that are too light for the rider's weight. If the spring are undersprung, adding preload can help in certain ways, but it's more of a bandaid that a real solution.
The ressest portion is designed to eliminate Ali to Ali movement. This is to eliminate wear for long term use. It also takes up volume. This makes the air spring (the captive enclosed air) stronger. There are many ways to increase preload and each to their own. You are also correct in saying they have had a lot of thought. These spacers work very effectively without mods to std parts. Your way works too.
Crikey Michael this is a long reply. Thank you for your input, yes definitely more than one way to arrive at the same result. Happy with this one for now. When I start jumping the grand canyon I may have to revisit however. The spacers are a cleaner solution for us and similar to what I have experimented with in the past. I'm in a catch 22 as I'd like the bike to ride a touch higher for when I brave the rough stuff but I like how this feels. I'd best come up with a strong bash plate just in case.
Yes absolutely, if you don't want or need externally adjustable preload. you can use 1" (ID) schedule 80 PVC pipe which fits in most 42mm forks. In fact it is supplied with the Congent DDC emulators when you buy their emulators. Easy to cut and has a 3\16" wall thickness. but that said, I just got my Interceptor last week and have done some preliminary checks on the suspension. The springs are too soft for even a rider of my weight (170 lbs.) and should be swapped out. there is only 110mm of front fork travel, so by using an increased preload your just shortening the overall travel. I'm already using well over 75% of the travel, and that's without hitting the brakes hard. So indeed it needs at a minimum more preload and a spring swap would be the final touch given that you don't desire to buy emulators which will improve the almost non existent damping. for the sake of information the sag numbers on my bike are as follows stock: A- unloaded 381mm B- static sag 355mm bike on its own weight C rider sag 335 mm with rider in gear So you are looking at 46mm of total sag, too much static sag, but only 20mm of rider sag on top of that. Ideally, and there are no hard and fast rules here, you want about 28-30 rider sag. and not so much static sag. But the other issue is damping or lack thereof and compression. The bike bottoms out too easily. Emulators are the only way to properly fix these. On a positive note, I have adjusted tire pressures and added a little preload on the back shock(that's another long story), and on smooth black top roads the bike handles very well even in the twisties with a very balanced feel, but on washboard roads or roads with pot holes, it suffers.
Hey, @DEeMON, I'm a suspension newb, enjoying learning about ways I can improve me Inty BE, so I appreciate your detailed information. Would you kindly tell me the from where your measurements are taken, ie pt A to pt B for unloaded, static rider sag, etc. Regarding emulators: are these included in the YSS upgrades? Btw, atm I'm loving my bike stock, only a month old.
All that's needed here is a short length of thicker walled tube the same outside diameter as the existing spacer tube with a turned down spigot that locates in the bore of the spacer tube. Nothing could catch anywhere then.
@@bobbyblueace 1" PVC 1120 Schedule 80 630 PSI should do. I used it on My MT07 when I installed emulators. should work on all 41 mm forks, but have not checked the RE yet, just got mine a week ago. 1" is the ID BTW it is a very thick walled pipe 33mm OD
Mmm interesting, in my experience the front end is a bit of a weak point on the Interceptor, can feel a bit 'loose' and particularly prone to white lining (but that could be the stock tyres?) would be interesting to see if these iron out one of the issues.
This is in reply to a comment I can no-longer find (it was from DEeMON) about using spacers cut from 1" id, 3/16" wall, PVC tube. This would result in some sprung weight reduction, a good thing (see below). Steel: 210mm long, 35mm od, Imm wall, 165g measured. Original RE part. PVC: 210mm long, 35mm od, 4.8mm wall (1" id, 3/16" wall), 134g calculated. Save 62g total over 2 fork tubes. Titanium: 210mm long, 35mm od, 1mm wall 92g calculated. Save 146g total over 2 fork tubes. Aluminium: 210mm long, 35mm od, 1mm wall 55g calculated. Save 220g total over 2 fork tubes. Too weak ? Note: the 165g was from a scale that measured in 5g increments, 35mm od Al tube is not a stocked size here but China has it with a 2mm wall via eBay which would give a total weight saving for 2 fork tubes of 110g.
I did. First I used a stack of washers for the preload. After some months I took out 10% (about 43ml) of the OEM oil out of every forkleg and replaced it with 43ml 85W gear oil. This mixes with the OEM oil and thickens it. The result is more compression and rebound damping. Works great on tarmac👍
Hi Rajiv, they are "V Power". Had these lying around in my stock. They are really for a Honda VFR850. They fit extremely well. They also save a stone in weigh. Only tried as a experiment. But the flow very nicely, sound nice and deep and I like them. So have stayed on. Graham. 😎
Hello, I just bought a RE Interceptor and I am very happy (with your videos for sure you contributed to my choice....). Only thing that I do not like are the stock exhausts....... too much heavy and big! In this video I saw on both bikes 2 different types of after market exhausts....could you please tel me the brand(s) ??? And maybe a website where to buy ???? Thanks a lot ! And please .....continue like this..........
Hi Graham hear. My silencers are "V Power" they are for a VFR850 and are little used but quite old. I had them lurking around spare in my shed. There are many places where you could buy not these but ones similar, Happy hunting and I hope you find ones to achieve the look you want. 😎
Hi Alessandro what a cool name you have! Glad you’re enjoying the videos. I got my cans from classic bike shop in the uk. I’m really happy with the look and sound but they are only mild steel and will rust through at some point I’m sure. I would like a full stainless system at some stage but would probably still colour the silencers black.
Buy a couple of cheap ' Emgo ' shorty mufflers and re- baffle(wrap' ) the iserts. Sound and look old- school fantastic. And 1/4 the price of branded mufflers. You can retro- engineer the original brackets with a little rooting around an ingenuity, looks profesional. And positively suits the bike style. Ive got a couple of clips on my channel if you care to watch them👍 oh and 1/4 of the OEM weight
Hi. Nice bike. I have made some modifications on my Interceptor, like new tires with on and off road capacity and after that I notice that the side stand now it's shorter for my bike and I'm looking for something more longer because now I'm afraid to put my bike on side stand because it stay very leaning. Have you ever thought about putting a new side stand or didn't notice any difference? You raise the top yoke? Because the distance between the yoke and the fork nut seems smaller than the original. And you could provide the measurements of the spacer and the material that it's made?
Isaac Oliveira Hi Isaac, yes I have the same side stand issue both from the tyres and raising the front end. I will probably cut it and weld in an extension at some point.
Just found your channel. Really like your approach. Could you let me know exactly which model of Renthal bar you've fitted? I'm trying to source one to raise the position on my Classic 500. Thank you.
I’ve only been riding bikes for forty five years - I think you can still get a more viscous grade of fork oil before you jeff the springs and make them ride more brittle. Try the simple solution first - just sayin’. Bodged up spacers aren’t the answer!
I think that the stock springs are too soft and with the spacers they will be out of specs within few hard breaking specially now that you are going off road, in my humble opinion you only need harder, stronger springs✊🏻
We shall see, certainly if doing any hardcore off road you'd deffo need stronger springs. I won't dare go hard on this off road in case I smash it to pieces, not much opportunity yet with the virus people are pretty sensitive to off roading here as it is so didn't want to rub anyone up the wrong way.
geez, why go to all that trouble when you could just buy adjustable preload caps. And As I have done that on my other bikes, the right way to really improve the front suspension is to go ahead and get the YSS kit with springs,Emulators and pre load caps all in one.
Adjustable caps are great. Trouble is they foul the Handlebars on the Interceptor. They also look a bit out of place on this style of bike. Fitting both systems is identical.
@@DEeMONsworld . Your right could change bars or risers but I really like the riding position. Plus look at all the things your having to do just to get your preload. Add up the price of adjustable fork tops plus cost of handle bars and or handlebar risers. Just to get what we have done without all that. Am sure if you do it you way it will work really well and you will be happy with the end result. 👍
Definitely an option and they are available, both TEC and Hitchcocks have them I think. I like the fit and forget and clean look of the top caps though. Cheers
Just fitted mine today. Only took 15 mins and what a difference it has made . Who knew that 6 mm made all the difference ! The main change has been no more bottoming out on the front end and just feels really connected. So pleased and corners are even more fun through them. Well done Graham and Andy for a great video. Order direct from Graham Chadwick £24.99 posted.
Glad you're a happy boy and great to have them independently verified! Who is Andy though? lol
Dorman Diaries ha ha, I could have sworn Graham said you were Andy!. Oh well you run a great channel whoever you are 👍😎
Good work
I used to race RD350LCs back in the 80s and basically this is what we did (we used stainless tube cut to length under the fork cap) worked a treat ( we were riding those things really hard)
You could go adjustable and emulators but what you have done looks fine 👍
Many thanks for your comments.
Those were the days !!
Yes not rocket science. Simple common sense engineering.
Don't try to invent the wheel.
Graham. 😎
Got mine today. 10 minutes to fit !!
Didn't take the bars off. Jacked front up , loosened pinch bolt, used trusty 22mm ring spanner. Slightly fiddly but no dramas. Just made sure I put plenty towels on the tank to protect it.
Thanks Mr Dorman and Graham. After seeing" ride with Warro's" review and yours I have ordered some from Graham today. Still waiting for my bike but getting organised with the right stuff now. When i test rode it i though the front end was a bit soft so this will help on the dodgy roads around here in Queensland. I really enjoy your videos. Cheers Ian.
Really pleased you included parts of our development processes. Yet another well filmed video. 😎
Graham Chadwick thank you sir
Great video and well done Graham. I have purchased some beautiful bespoke brass parts for my interceptor from Graham and he does an incredible job and will talk through your design.
Millie Felstead - yes he’s very good and knows his stuff!
Hi Mr Dorman - Finally installed the spacers today and what a difference. Only done 700kms on the originals but noticed the immediate difference. The front end seems firmer and not so vague. By the way i noticed you put some wood under your sidestand. The sidestand seems too short to me.
Make a big difference don't they. I'd still like a taller front end though to raise the ground clearance. Pondering on how best to achieve that. Agree re the stand, mine is worse due to the taller rear tyre. Its on my to do list to lengthen.
an excellent video well done you both. I will follow with interest my new machine hopefully arrives on the 9th of this month. So will look at customising as I go forward. well done again. Tony
Art Man thanks Tony, much appreciated!!
Nice video...interesting stuff. And some fine brass products. Interceptor is looking great...! Cheers, Steve
Stephen Eldridge hi Steve, thank you for your continued support 👍
I have been doing this mod for at least 30 years on tele forks, That is a nice part and yes I have to say the forks are a little soft STD and I am going to do a similar mod.
The bike is looking fantastic! Great video and love the channel, keep pumping out the awesome content!
Thanks mate, really appreciate your comments 🙏🏼
@@DormanDiaries you're inspiring me to create more Royal Enfield content on my channel.
i have mine set to 4mm for now with 85kg rider/geared . made alot difference , front end doesnt feel loose anymore
That’s great to hear, will be similar to my weight then tho not weighed myself. Nice to hear from other folks so we know we aren’t imagining it!
@@DormanDiaries had some strange clonking noise when riding over bumps , but gladly its gone now
fabiano yep that’s the one, seems a common issue and these seem to solve it
Having made preload spacers a few time for various bikes, I believe that you've over thought your design. Is there really a need for the spacers to have a lip that limits how far they go down into the fork tubes. All you need to do is create a spacer that increases the distance between the cap and the washer. The washer's purpose is to allow a flat space for the factory spring spacers to rest against the bottom of the fork cap to protect the cap's lip and to provide stability of the upper end of the spacer tube. But as your spacer fits neatly up inside the cap's recess, if the lip was removed, it would still exert pressure on the washer evenly and be able to go down inside the fork tube as far as you like. I've used all manner of ways to increase preload, but the simplest for this fork may be to just cut another spacer tube from a length of the proper OD tube, to the desired length. In other words, measure the length of the factory spacer tube, and add whatever additional preload you want and make a new one of the desired length. By doing this, you can add as much preload as you want. And, if you make it a bit longer than you think you'll need, you can trim the length a bit at a time until you hit the "magic" number for your weight and riding style. Easier to remove metal than add it back... ;-)
Although, depending on your rider sag measurements, it may be more appropriate to increase the spring rate than just increasing the preload on springs that are too light for the rider's weight. If the spring are undersprung, adding preload can help in certain ways, but it's more of a bandaid that a real solution.
The ressest portion is designed to eliminate Ali to Ali movement. This is to eliminate wear for long term use. It also takes up volume. This makes the air spring (the captive enclosed air) stronger. There are many ways to increase preload and each to their own. You are also correct in saying they have had a lot of thought. These spacers work very effectively without mods to std parts. Your way works too.
Crikey Michael this is a long reply. Thank you for your input, yes definitely more than one way to arrive at the same result. Happy with this one for now. When I start jumping the grand canyon I may have to revisit however. The spacers are a cleaner solution for us and similar to what I have experimented with in the past. I'm in a catch 22 as I'd like the bike to ride a touch higher for when I brave the rough stuff but I like how this feels. I'd best come up with a strong bash plate just in case.
Yes absolutely, if you don't want or need externally adjustable preload. you can use 1" (ID) schedule 80 PVC pipe which fits in most 42mm forks. In fact it is supplied with the Congent DDC emulators when you buy their emulators. Easy to cut and has a 3\16" wall thickness. but that said, I just got my Interceptor last week and have done some preliminary checks on the suspension. The springs are too soft for even a rider of my weight (170 lbs.) and should be swapped out. there is only 110mm of front fork travel, so by using an increased preload your just shortening the overall travel. I'm already using well over 75% of the travel, and that's without hitting the brakes hard. So indeed it needs at a minimum more preload and a spring swap would be the final touch given that you don't desire to buy emulators which will improve the almost non existent damping. for the sake of information the sag numbers on my bike are as follows stock:
A- unloaded 381mm
B- static sag 355mm bike on its own weight
C rider sag 335 mm with rider in gear
So you are looking at 46mm of total sag, too much static sag, but only 20mm of rider sag on top of that. Ideally, and there are no hard and fast rules here, you want about 28-30 rider sag. and not so much static sag. But the other issue is damping or lack thereof and compression. The bike bottoms out too easily. Emulators are the only way to properly fix these.
On a positive note, I have adjusted tire pressures and added a little preload on the back shock(that's another long story), and on smooth black top roads the bike handles very well even in the twisties with a very balanced feel, but on washboard roads or roads with pot holes, it suffers.
Totally agree with all this ... 👍
Hey, @DEeMON, I'm a suspension newb, enjoying learning about ways I can improve me Inty BE, so I appreciate your detailed information. Would you kindly tell me the from where your measurements are taken, ie pt A to pt B for unloaded, static rider sag, etc. Regarding emulators: are these included in the YSS upgrades?
Btw, atm I'm loving my bike stock, only a month old.
All that's needed here is a short length of thicker walled tube the same outside diameter as the existing spacer tube with a turned down spigot that locates in the bore of the spacer tube. Nothing could catch anywhere then.
it's even easier than that just pull the metal tubes and replace with a thick walled PVC pipe of the desired total length.
@@DEeMONsworld Agree. As long as you can find the correct diameter of off the shelf pipe .
@@bobbyblueace 1" PVC 1120 Schedule 80 630 PSI should do. I used it on My MT07 when I installed emulators. should work on all 41 mm forks, but have not checked the RE yet, just got mine a week ago. 1" is the ID BTW it is a very thick walled pipe 33mm OD
Just about to put these in, I was wondering what kind of front and rear tire pressures are you running ?
Hi Mate, 35 ish in the rear, think about 32 in the front.
Mmm interesting, in my experience the front end is a bit of a weak point on the Interceptor, can feel a bit 'loose' and particularly prone to white lining (but that could be the stock tyres?) would be interesting to see if these iron out one of the issues.
Yea its the loose feeling that I think these get rid of. Just couldn't find the words to say that!
This is in reply to a comment I can no-longer find (it was from DEeMON) about using spacers cut from 1" id, 3/16" wall, PVC tube. This would result in some sprung weight reduction, a good thing (see below).
Steel: 210mm long, 35mm od, Imm wall, 165g measured. Original RE part.
PVC: 210mm long, 35mm od, 4.8mm wall (1" id, 3/16" wall), 134g calculated. Save 62g total over 2 fork tubes.
Titanium: 210mm long, 35mm od, 1mm wall 92g calculated. Save 146g total over 2 fork tubes.
Aluminium: 210mm long, 35mm od, 1mm wall 55g calculated. Save 220g total over 2 fork tubes. Too weak ?
Note: the 165g was from a scale that measured in 5g increments, 35mm od Al tube is not a stocked size here but China has it with a 2mm wall via eBay which would give a total weight saving for 2 fork tubes of 110g.
Really interesting stuff, have you tinkered with oil viscosities and overfilling for a little anti-dive?
I did.
First I used a stack of washers for the preload.
After some months I took out 10% (about 43ml) of the OEM oil out of every forkleg and replaced it with 43ml 85W gear oil. This mixes with the OEM oil and thickens it.
The result is more compression and rebound damping. Works great on tarmac👍
Hi mate. Didn’t get the details of the brass parts. Great video. Ride safe.
Hi Mate - I've put a link to the grey ones :) facebook page in the description. Hope this helps. Glad you liked the video
Great video, 👍
Ayup mate just a quick question, where did you get your headlight cover from and does it include the rim?many thanks Ken.
what silencers are used on Graham's bike ?
Hi Rajiv, they are "V Power". Had these lying around in my stock. They are really for a Honda VFR850. They fit extremely well. They also save a stone in weigh. Only tried as a experiment. But the flow very nicely, sound nice and deep and I like them. So have stayed on. Graham. 😎
If I were to look for a similar part. Can I go for a steel tube/washer? What are the exact dimensions?
I see you've dropped the forks in the top yoke, I did the same to slow the steering a bit.Seems to have made a difference.
Yea I like the way it stands now. I probably wouldn't advise dropping them through if short of inseam but I'm just OK in this regard.
Hi what difference did you find by dropping the forks in the yokes .
@@williammetters8128 It just slows the steering down a tiny bit, a bit less twitchy.
Hello, I just bought a RE Interceptor and I am very happy (with your videos for sure you contributed to my choice....). Only thing that I do not like are the stock exhausts....... too much heavy and big! In this video I saw on both bikes 2 different types of after market exhausts....could you please tel me the brand(s) ??? And maybe a website where to buy ???? Thanks a lot ! And please .....continue like this..........
Hi Graham hear. My silencers are "V Power" they are for a VFR850 and are little used but quite old. I had them lurking around spare in my shed. There are many places where you could buy not these but ones similar, Happy hunting and I hope you find ones to achieve the look you want. 😎
@@2WHEELSor2WINGS Thanks !
Hi Alessandro what a cool name you have! Glad you’re enjoying the videos. I got my cans from classic bike shop in the uk. I’m really happy with the look and sound but they are only mild steel and will rust through at some point I’m sure. I would like a full stainless system at some stage but would probably still colour the silencers black.
Buy a couple of cheap ' Emgo ' shorty mufflers and re- baffle(wrap' ) the iserts. Sound and look old- school fantastic. And 1/4 the price of branded mufflers. You can retro- engineer the original brackets with a little rooting around an ingenuity, looks profesional. And positively suits the bike style. Ive got a couple of clips on my channel if you care to watch them👍 oh and 1/4 of the OEM weight
Headlamp guard link ?
Those "inside" pipes are really long! Can't be much spring in that fork!
Yea probably cost and weight saving. Ones from a R80 are twice or thrice as long!
Hi. Nice bike. I have made some modifications on my Interceptor, like new tires with on and off road capacity and after that I notice that the side stand now it's shorter for my bike and I'm looking for something more longer because now I'm afraid to put my bike on side stand because it stay very leaning. Have you ever thought about putting a new side stand or didn't notice any difference?
You raise the top yoke? Because the distance between the yoke and the fork nut seems smaller than the original. And you could provide the measurements of the spacer and the material that it's made?
Isaac Oliveira Hi Isaac, yes I have the same side stand issue both from the tyres and raising the front end. I will probably cut it and weld in an extension at some point.
Just found your channel.
Really like your approach.
Could you let me know exactly which model of Renthal bar you've fitted?
I'm trying to source one to raise the position on my Classic 500.
Thank you.
chriskay116 hi mate thanks for your comments. The model no. printed on the bars is 768
@@DormanDiaries Thank you. Smashing.
Dorman Diaries,any information on that Tool you are using ?...It sure looks handy :)
Yep, that’s a motion pro trail tool. Plus I’ve added a motion pro spark plug tool to the set.
Nice video
Thank you young lady
I’ve only been riding bikes for forty five years - I think you can still get a more viscous grade of fork oil before you jeff the springs and make them ride more brittle. Try the simple solution first - just sayin’. Bodged up spacers aren’t the answer!
Can I ask where your pal got his fork seal protectors please?
Hi, they are Triumph parts from eBay. They are really nice quality. Prices vary quite a lot from different sellers. 😎
How do you think your new tires are doing compared to the stock ones....especially on road....has the handling changed or does it feel almost the same
BLR MOTORRAD INC. - seems fine on the road to me, had em up to a good speed stable etc
@@DormanDiaries thanks for the reply...will surely try to get some off roading tyres for my motorcycle too...👍😊
Plz friend do one thing on ur interceptor bike ,plz fit Himalayan speedometer on interceptor plz
I think that the stock springs are too soft and with the spacers they will be out of specs within few hard breaking specially now that you are going off road, in my humble opinion you only need harder, stronger springs✊🏻
We shall see, certainly if doing any hardcore off road you'd deffo need stronger springs. I won't dare go hard on this off road in case I smash it to pieces, not much opportunity yet with the virus people are pretty sensitive to off roading here as it is so didn't want to rub anyone up the wrong way.
Dorman Diaries , yes, you are right, stay safe mate!!
Good video 👌👍😀
Shortbikerblondie thank you 🙏🏼
hey nice video! whats the plastic thing on the forks?
Which bike? Do you mean the stone guards on the silver one instead of gaiters?
@@DormanDiaries yeah on the silver twin! :)
@@GregoryHouseMD1 Yea stone guards then
Can you give the exact dimension of the extension. I will make my own this week
Perhaps you would like him to pop over and fit it for you too.
What are the off road tires on the black bike? Thank you
Hi Ivan, I've got a video in my playlist all about them and fitting them. Bridgestone battlax adventurecross ax41's
What bar risers and Renthal bars are you using?
Fast H Racing renthals are 6.0 trials. Risers I put together myself. I’ve got a vid in my playlist on them.
Hey Bruv, job well done. Could you please share the dimensions.. I am from India, so it would be difficult shipping it..
I have no difficult shipping to India. Contact me to arrange 😎
Is it easy to lower the overall height of this bike
mark cameron could drop the forks through a touch. Won’t need new shocks on back. Tec sell some lower ones
geez, why go to all that trouble when you could just buy adjustable preload caps. And As I have done that on my other bikes, the right way to really improve the front suspension is to go ahead and get the YSS kit with springs,Emulators and pre load caps all in one.
Yes at about £250
@@stevepalmer5670 true, but caps that are adjustable are about 30 bucks, and screw em in. If you're not willing to do the full Monty
Adjustable caps are great. Trouble is they foul the Handlebars on the Interceptor. They also look a bit out of place on this style of bike. Fitting both systems is identical.
@@2WHEELSor2WINGS easy to use risers, and then you have adjustability. To each his own about what looks good.
@@DEeMONsworld . Your right could change bars or risers but I really like the riding position. Plus look at all the things your having to do just to get your preload. Add up the price of adjustable fork tops plus cost of handle bars and or handlebar risers. Just to get what we have done without all that.
Am sure if you do it you way it will work really well and you will be happy with the end result. 👍
take metal off the top that fits inside the fork nut !
Wouldn't it be better to fit adjustable ones
Definitely an option and they are available, both TEC and Hitchcocks have them I think. I like the fit and forget and clean look of the top caps though. Cheers
How much are they please
gaz t - Hi Gaz, he’s asking £24.99 posted his details are in the description. Thanks for watching
Towel over the tank ! It only takes one whoops ;-)
Linda Goodchild I’ve had a few of those... character
I made 8mm spacers and used 15w oil, massively better than stock.
MrKdr500 - good to hear. What weight oil is meant to be in as standard?
Thanks so much for that little titbit- this is what community is all about. I wanted to do this but didn't know where to start👍
Did you use stock oil amount?
MrKdr500 - What is your body weight, as that makes a difference for damping.