I can’t remember who asked me to try the over the powder wad as it’s been 45 plus years ago… but I used to buy old felt hats and punch out 7/16” wads for my .54 caliber flintlock. I was and still shoot 100 grains of 2F Goex (now Swiss) with a felt hat wad and my normal .015” pillow ticking patch around a .530” ball. I started buying .54 caliber wonder wads as you can’t hardly find a worn out felt hat anymore. Thank you for sharing your shooting Pard.
Love your willingness to experiment. In my retirement I’ve only recently taken up muzzleloading starting with my current assembling of a Kibler SMR. I got tired of going to the range and watching (hearing) guys rip off hundreds of rounds through their AR’s and thought that there has to be a better, more economical, way to have fun shooting and hone my marksmanship skills. Then I discovered the Black Powder Maniac! So here’s an experiment, and excuse me for describing it in a comments section as I can’t find contact info for you Mark: The overall premise is to discover the most economical combination that produces the cheapest cost-per-shot. In the first installment, I would like you to assemble a bullet trap made of a plastic bin filled with rubber mulch (many RUclips videos on this) that demonstrates the minimum amount of mulch needed (and depth of the bin) to capture all the different calibers you shoot, at 25 yards. Log the cost of the components for the trap and the cost of each lead ball you shoot and recover for recycling. I know you melt and cast at least some of your own balls so as time goes by your need to acquire lead through purchase should decrease. Then, of course, the amount of lead expended into the ground on your shooting site should decrease as well which is an environmental and health benefit that can’t be calculated but that will be there. Any way, sorry to be long winded here but if there is a better way please let me know. Other economy installments will be mentioned later.
Wow...that's a tall order to fulfill! Yes..I do pour my own round balls with FREE lead. I cut my own patches to use also. The only thing I buy for this hobby is flints, caps & powder. I make everything else myself. I can try your idea...not sure how I can pull it off using all these free materials. Thanks for watching.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooterżeby wyłapać kule wystarczy 5 litrowy baniak po wodzie destylowanej lub mineralnej napełnić piaskiem i położyć poziomo, a za nim położyć luzem zwinięte stare koce polarowe, które zatrzymają pocisk lub kulę. Tak koce zatrzymują kule z "Colta Navy 1851" które przejdą przez baniak z piaskiem. Kule nie przebijają kocy, bo koce są luzem i kula zabiera je swoim pędem odsuwając na kilkanaście centymetrów. Jako kulochwyt powinny być właśnie rzeczy lekkie i miękkie swobodnie leżące na stojaku a nie twarde i naprężone bo te kulą przebije.Miże karabiny potrzebne będzie więcej kanistrów z piaskiem by kulą wychamiwała i by potem znaleźć ją w kulochwycię ze starych kocy polarowych. Ja takich kocy mam mnóstwo po każdej wyprawie do lasu pod namiot. Po prostu nie chce mi się ich prać i rozwieszać do suszenia w małym mieszkaniu w mieście, wolę na następną wyprawę do lasu kupić nowe.
Another awesome video.. I absolutely love how much you have so much fun.. and your enthusiasm.. You made another Sunday for me and now I will get ready to head to church again today.. JESUS does love us ❤️ 🫂
Hello from Oklahoma! Interesting Video! For Years now I've shot a TC 50 Hawkens style rifle. All I've ever used is a product called bore butter. Never had any corrosion issues and the rifle has always held good accuracy. Thanks for the video, and the food for thought. God Bless!
Spit lube only for me. Works great, never gums up the barrel, never gets misplaced or left at home. Haven’t used anything else in I couldn’t even guess how many years.
@@BuckskinsBlackPowder I agree but only because the load is going to sit in my barrel for three days, For this reason I do use lubed patched for hunting.
Mark I have tried using .50 felt wad over the power when shooting the cheap shot sabot in my sidelocks. Yes a inline sabot will shoot well out of the old muzzleloaders with a 1-48 twist
I tried balistil, a bunch of natural greases and oils, mink, bear, crisco, coconut, lard, olive, castor, I tried a mix of waxes, bees, carnauba with the oils and greases. I tried SPG, Bore butter, and i forget what the other was. They all work to some degree, and i think all are just fine for hunting, but all had to be swabbed after 6-10 shots. I've been experimenting with a homebrew based on the lee valley lube patent. I start with a mix of oils, add lye to make soap, add alcohol to dissolve some of the soap, add a mix of citrus and pine solvent to further dissolve the soap until theres still a little cloudiness left, add a bit of boric acid which acts as a preservative and brings the ph back to neutral. I'm still working on nailing down the exact ratios of all the ingredients, but its been a fantastic lube. Ive let it sit on the powder all day while hunting and had no problem. When I'm at the range or a woods walk i don't swab. On occasion ill get a crud ring if i dilute it with too much alcohol (still working on the perfect mix). But i think i found my magic sauce. Once i finally perfect it, ill mix up enough to fill a wine bottle and I imagine itll last me at least a year.
I know a lot of guys use felt wads over powder then a patched ball.. I’ve tried it and honestly see no difference in accuracy or fouling. 45 and higher I can get 15 to 20 shots without swabbing and only the last couple get a little harder to load. With 32, 36 and 40, I can get 8 to 10 shots off. This is just with a patched ball using either Wonder Lub or my home made concoction of bees wax, crisco and olive oil. Wonder lube smells better. I’ve also used Ballistol as patch lube and it works good too.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooter interesting. On really hot dry days, I use a mix of 50/50 Ballistol and water (moose milk) and it works well. I've used spit before but, to be honest, I don't like chewing on a piece of cloth. I have also used a mix of about 3 parts water to 1 part Simple Green. The Simple Green concoction works well too (Simple Green and water mix is what I use to clean the bore after the shooting day is done). Over the past 40 years, I've used a lot of stuff including lard (rendered animal fat), Crisco, Cooking oil, Murphy's Oil Soap, Automatic Transmission fluid, and my experience is anything that puts a little lubrication on the patch to help it slide down the bore more easily works just fine . I even got a chance to try real whale oil once. Like you said, ask 10 shooters and you'll get 15 different preferences. Since all of it works about equally, pick something and stick with it and be happy! In my 40 plus years of shooting muzzleloaders and modern guns, what I have found is the best way to tighten groups is practice. The more we practice, the better we get. It also seems the more I practice the more accurate my rifles become. :)
I sure do love these experiment type videos. Wait what am I saying, I love them all ! 😂 Thank you as always for entering us for a little while each week and blessings to you and your entire family Mark.
Good video Mark ! After cleaning with water I dry and then wipe out with WD-40 and this doesn’t stay oily but seems to dry up. Wipe out with a dry patch to start shooting next time. I’ve been happy using Ox Yoke pre lubed patches. You said it ! Whatever works for you, stay with it ! Thanks this was fun and interesting. Blessings ! 👍😃
W-D 40 is mainly fish oil , I've seen it cause serious corrosion problems. People who rebuild electric motors say that if it's used to lube bushings then they will wear out with just a hours use . I don't think I would use it on any firearm unless I was planning on cleaning and lubing it with something else immediately
Every thing black powder used 50% water and 50% dawn soap in a spray bottle and spray the patch and the barrel stay clean just don't wet it too much. So put powder, than patch, and ball try it.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooter I have used water for YEARS myself with perfect results but recently tried OLDE TURKEY TRACK cleaner from Taylor Arms. I had just finished putting a total of 240 grains of BP through my Pedersoli Rocky Mountain Hawken from 3 shots and tried it. Was amazed at how quickly it cut the soot and sped up cleaning in general.
The only thing a well-lubed patch on the ball is going to do is reduce lead fouling. Regardless of putting a patch over the powder or not, the powder IS still fouling the bore just as much. The patch on top of the powder is not reducing the fouling at the breech and is not helping to stop fouling of the barrel as the powder is burning behind the patch atop the powder. This is why you get the same black swab regardless of the method used.
How about this challenge no one ever thought of? Using a smooth bore flintlock with a patch, dimple the ball like a golf ball is dimpled to make it fly a lot straighter ! I have never seen this tried yet.😉
I've been asked to try that before but never got around to it. Now...I'm motivated to try this. I need to get a wood rasp & make this happen! Thanks for the idea.
What I use when I know I’m gonna have a long day shooting is a patch soaked in car wash or dish soap with a 75% soap and 25% water never needs a swab and loads like the first time every time..I do use a over powder patch as well
Interesting experiment, I kind of figured the patches from both would come out about the same, I can't imagine why a patch over the powder would make any difference because all the fouling is behind the patch. As alway's. I enjoyed the video and all the good shooting 👍
No petrol products for me 🫣 What a sticky, smearing, black tar mess, no thanks. Thats a line i wont cross, hope you can get it out but i think you may be dealin with that wd40 for the next few outings n cleanings. But u wont have to worry about rust😂 You are a wild man 👍
@@jacobwilbert1018 I got into BP shooting during the Bicentennial back in 1976. I wasnt familiar with shooting them so I joined a BP club in Saratoga NY. There wasn't alot of commercial BP shooting products esp lubes back then, Pyrodex had just come out but real Black Powder was widely available. Anyway a lot of the club members were using Crisco grease so thats what Ive been using most of the time, even till now. You can also mix it with bees wax melted 50/50 together if you like but it works fine alone. Ive never had a problem with it, and there isnt any observable difference between Crisco and commercial BP lubes in my opinion and no corrosion issues.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video. I really didn't have any problems with cleaning. It actually cleaned a little easier because I don't swab much at all.
@@themansplainer7726sam wosk pszczeli roztopiony w kąpieli wodnej nalewam do załadowanych bębnów Colt'a Navy 1851 by zabezpieczyć bęben przed ogniem łańcuchowym. Gorący wosk nie może spowodować zapalenia prochu bo jego temperatura nie przekracza 100⁰C a to o 170⁰C mniej od temperatury zapłonu czarnego prochu. Korki z wosku używam do mojego karabinu na wiewiórki od Ardessy Scout'a .36. W bębnach Colta wosk latem twardnieje po 20 minutach na tyle, że przdmuchy ognia przy strzelaniu nie usuwają wosku z komór jak to dzieje się z każdym smarem. Ładuję bębny w domu bo na strzelnicy nie mam warunków by topić wosk. Dlatego mam pięć bębenków do jednego Colt'a od Pietty .36 i na strzelnicy ładuję tylko karabin. Moim zdaniem do dziurawienia tekturowych tarcz te małe kalibry wystarczą, szkoda że nie ma na rynku rewolwerów .36 o dłuższych niż 8" lufach. Pozdrawiam z Polski.
Mark as always great video and willing to do experiments!! I got one experiment for you. I know you can use leaves twigs to shoot round balls and you can shoot round balks without patches but what happens if you shoot cotton like soft white puff cotton that you get at a drugstore or Walmart and brought it with you as a patch can it be done if you load powder, cotton as a patch and ball ??? and always God bless you Mark !!!
arent store bought pre lubed patches lubed with something like cooking oil (maybe vegetable oil) some type of petroleum oil may actually be better than traditionally lubed patches but thing with it is it you could potentially have remnants of the oil still burning when you reload but i think modern petroleum based lubricants is worth checking into also i wonder how vaseline would work as a bullet lube
I'm not sure what they are lubed with. I have some store bought patches that are real wet...even 2 years later! Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
I use Swiss Null OB or Schuetzen 4F powder for priming powders. I've also drilled the touch hole out to 1/16" inch for better ignition. Thanks for watching.
can you try food grade anti seize lube as patch lube? see if it cleans or works well as a patch lube, im curious cause i read about it in a forum, people say because its not oil based it helps with rust when clean, storing and what not. it has to be food grade, something different about regular anti seize..
Mark I like your channel but I've been shooting BP for 40 years and have always been told never use petroleum products in them . With all the great lubes out there I can't understand why you would use it in your guns.
No, WD40 is convenient to use but 1. vsit makes fired patches smoulder and might start a forest fire. Also has some kind of petroleum in it that makes fouling hard.
Good morning from pa I love your videos but I don't think I would use WD-40 because of being to greasy unless you have a sufficient supply of clean clothes but I imagine it would keep the barrel lubed but wouldnt that lead to powder sticking to barrel when you reload . Or would it be cleaned when you run patch over ball down barrel.
I didn't have any problems cleaning this gun when done. In fact, it cleaned easier since I did swab it. Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
It's not a good idea to use WD-40 or any other petroleum product inside the barrel of your muzzleloading rifle. You will create tar rings which after time will make your rifle highly inaccurate. So make sure that you really clean that barrel out good after using that WD-40.
@@kenthatfield4287 In fact, this gun cleaned up quicker than normal. Excluding this project …I’m just a plain ol’ water user for shooting and cleaning patches. Thanks for watching.
not to sure about that, I did some chem and aerospace fuel systems and Ox stuff in the 90's I recall WD as very inert. black powder makes nitric in the fouled oxidized leftovers. but I know a guy, I'll ask.
I have heard that WD is a petroleum product and doesn’t play well with black powder fowling . Didn’t seem to hurt here. Sounds like the quest was to shoot a skychief load with a round ball.
Good Sunday morning to everyone ✝️ Appreciate the video and the update and ideas. Remember everyone through it all seek Jesus Christ in your life and heart for he is the true answer through it all in this old world ✝️💪🙏
WD is fish oil , you should shoot the way they were designed, no lub patches dry powder plug the bore with lube dry patch then ball do this you can shoot all day with out cleaning ,you try to shoot dry like modern guns three four rounds you must cleen . in cold weather a lubed patch will freeze to the ball
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I can’t remember who asked me to try the over the powder wad as it’s been 45 plus years ago… but I used to buy old felt hats and punch out 7/16” wads for my .54 caliber flintlock. I was and still shoot 100 grains of 2F Goex (now Swiss) with a felt hat wad and my normal .015” pillow ticking patch around a .530” ball. I started buying .54 caliber wonder wads as you can’t hardly find a worn out felt hat anymore. Thank you for sharing your shooting Pard.
Thanks for watching......pillow ticking & water is all I use anymore - except during this video.
You do all the hard work of researching stuff like this, so we dont have to.
Thank you very much
Thanks for watching. ..this is the fun part. Trying materials I normally won't use.
Love your willingness to experiment. In my retirement I’ve only recently taken up muzzleloading starting with my current assembling of a Kibler SMR. I got tired of going to the range and watching (hearing) guys rip off hundreds of rounds through their AR’s and thought that there has to be a better, more economical, way to have fun shooting and hone my marksmanship skills. Then I discovered the Black Powder Maniac! So here’s an experiment, and excuse me for describing it in a comments section as I can’t find contact info for you Mark: The overall premise is to discover the most economical combination that produces the cheapest cost-per-shot. In the first installment, I would like you to assemble a bullet trap made of a plastic bin filled with rubber mulch (many RUclips videos on this) that demonstrates the minimum amount of mulch needed (and depth of the bin) to capture all the different calibers you shoot, at 25 yards. Log the cost of the components for the trap and the cost of each lead ball you shoot and recover for recycling. I know you melt and cast at least some of your own balls so as time goes by your need to acquire lead through purchase should decrease. Then, of course, the amount of lead expended into the ground on your shooting site should decrease as well which is an environmental and health benefit that can’t be calculated but that will be there. Any way, sorry to be long winded here but if there is a better way please let me know. Other economy installments will be mentioned later.
Wow...that's a tall order to fulfill! Yes..I do pour my own round balls with FREE lead. I cut my own patches to use also. The only thing I buy for this hobby is flints, caps & powder. I make everything else myself. I can try your idea...not sure how I can pull it off using all these free materials. Thanks for watching.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooterżeby wyłapać kule wystarczy 5 litrowy baniak po wodzie destylowanej lub mineralnej napełnić piaskiem i położyć poziomo, a za nim położyć luzem zwinięte stare koce polarowe, które zatrzymają pocisk lub kulę. Tak koce zatrzymują kule z "Colta Navy 1851" które przejdą przez baniak z piaskiem. Kule nie przebijają kocy, bo koce są luzem i kula zabiera je swoim pędem odsuwając na kilkanaście centymetrów. Jako kulochwyt powinny być właśnie rzeczy lekkie i miękkie swobodnie leżące na stojaku a nie twarde i naprężone bo te kulą przebije.Miże karabiny potrzebne będzie więcej kanistrów z piaskiem by kulą wychamiwała i by potem znaleźć ją w kulochwycię ze starych kocy polarowych. Ja takich kocy mam mnóstwo po każdej wyprawie do lasu pod namiot. Po prostu nie chce mi się ich prać i rozwieszać do suszenia w małym mieszkaniu w mieście, wolę na następną wyprawę do lasu kupić nowe.
Another awesome video.. I absolutely love how much you have so much fun.. and your enthusiasm.. You made another Sunday for me and now I will get ready to head to church again today.. JESUS does love us ❤️ 🫂
Thanks Tricia. I made it to church today myself. Have a blessed day.
Another winner Mark! I have noticed you shoot a lot better when you use a patch...sometimes.
God bless you Mark. Wife's 3 rd neck surgery. Still taking care of her. ❤
Take care of your bride my friend. That's the most important thing to do.
Hello from Oklahoma! Interesting Video! For Years now I've shot a TC 50 Hawkens style rifle. All I've ever used is a product called bore butter. Never had any corrosion issues and the rifle has always held good accuracy. Thanks for the video, and the food for thought. God Bless!
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Spit lube only for me. Works great, never gums up the barrel, never gets misplaced or left at home. Haven’t used anything else in I couldn’t even guess how many years.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Great for target shooting, but not for hunting. On the range, I always try to sight in for my most accurate hunting load.
@@BuckskinsBlackPowder Wise choices my friend. Don't want the game to run away.
@@BuckskinsBlackPowder I agree but only because the load is going to sit in my barrel for three days, For this reason I do use lubed patched for hunting.
Mark I have tried using .50 felt wad over the power when shooting the cheap shot sabot in my sidelocks.
Yes a inline sabot will shoot well out of the old muzzleloaders with a 1-48 twist
Thanks for watching. I need to try that again someday.
I tried balistil, a bunch of natural greases and oils, mink, bear, crisco, coconut, lard, olive, castor, I tried a mix of waxes, bees, carnauba with the oils and greases. I tried SPG, Bore butter, and i forget what the other was. They all work to some degree, and i think all are just fine for hunting, but all had to be swabbed after 6-10 shots.
I've been experimenting with a homebrew based on the lee valley lube patent. I start with a mix of oils, add lye to make soap, add alcohol to dissolve some of the soap, add a mix of citrus and pine solvent to further dissolve the soap until theres still a little cloudiness left, add a bit of boric acid which acts as a preservative and brings the ph back to neutral. I'm still working on nailing down the exact ratios of all the ingredients, but its been a fantastic lube. Ive let it sit on the powder all day while hunting and had no problem. When I'm at the range or a woods walk i don't swab. On occasion ill get a crud ring if i dilute it with too much alcohol (still working on the perfect mix). But i think i found my magic sauce. Once i finally perfect it, ill mix up enough to fill a wine bottle and I imagine itll last me at least a year.
Sounds like an awesome formula once you get it perfected. Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
What FUN!!!! Congrats on the great video!!!!
Thanks my friend......keep on shooting my friend..!!!
Very cool experiment. Good shooting.
You have a wonderful week Mark. God Bless brother
Thanks for watching my friend. I enjoy putting these type videos together.
Thanks for watching my friend. I enjoy putting these type videos together.
@ you are very welcome my friend. Oh yeah i bet lol.
Mark you where on fire on that first round! Interesting video, thank you fer bringing it to us!
That doesn't happen often! Thanks for watching.
I know a lot of guys use felt wads over powder then a patched ball.. I’ve tried it and honestly see no difference in accuracy or fouling. 45 and higher I can get 15 to 20 shots without swabbing and only the last couple get a little harder to load. With 32, 36 and 40, I can get 8 to 10 shots off. This is just with a patched ball using either Wonder Lub or my home made concoction of bees wax, crisco and olive oil. Wonder lube smells better. I’ve also used Ballistol as patch lube and it works good too.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video. I quit using commercial products.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooter interesting. On really hot dry days, I use a mix of 50/50 Ballistol and water (moose milk) and it works well. I've used spit before but, to be honest, I don't like chewing on a piece of cloth. I have also used a mix of about 3 parts water to 1 part Simple Green. The Simple Green concoction works well too (Simple Green and water mix is what I use to clean the bore after the shooting day is done). Over the past 40 years, I've used a lot of stuff including lard (rendered animal fat), Crisco, Cooking oil, Murphy's Oil Soap, Automatic Transmission fluid, and my experience is anything that puts a little lubrication on the patch to help it slide down the bore more easily works just fine . I even got a chance to try real whale oil once. Like you said, ask 10 shooters and you'll get 15 different preferences. Since all of it works about equally, pick something and stick with it and be happy! In my 40 plus years of shooting muzzleloaders and modern guns, what I have found is the best way to tighten groups is practice. The more we practice, the better we get. It also seems the more I practice the more accurate my rifles become. :)
@@JeffandLeslie Absolutely RIGHT! Pick something that works & go with it. Practice practice! There is nothing wrong with that either!!
Great video Mark. Shooting those jugs has to be as much fun as doing the experiment.
Amen brother...I absolutely LOVE seeing things destroyed! LOL
I sure do love these experiment type videos. Wait what am I saying, I love them all ! 😂 Thank you as always for entering us for a little while each week and blessings to you and your entire family Mark.
Thanks for watching. .
Good video Mark ! After cleaning with water I dry and then wipe out with WD-40 and this doesn’t stay oily but seems to dry up. Wipe out with a dry patch to start shooting next time. I’ve been happy using Ox Yoke pre lubed patches. You said it ! Whatever works for you, stay with it ! Thanks this was fun and interesting. Blessings ! 👍😃
W-D 40 is mainly fish oil , I've seen it cause serious corrosion problems. People who rebuild electric motors say that if it's used to lube bushings then they will wear out with just a hours use . I don't think I would use it on any firearm unless I was planning on cleaning and lubing it with something else immediately
Thanks my friend.....water is normally all I use, except for this wacky experiment! LOL
Thanks my friend.....water is normally all I use, except for this wacky experiment! LOL
Every thing black powder used 50% water and 50% dawn soap in a spray bottle and spray the patch and the barrel stay clean just don't wet it too much. So put powder, than patch, and ball try it.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
This sounds like it would be a great idea for the person who suggested it to try for themselves. Interesting video Mark.
Hmmm, good point. Maybe he will. Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
@@blackpowdermaniacshooter I have used water for YEARS myself with perfect results but recently tried OLDE TURKEY TRACK cleaner from Taylor Arms. I had just finished putting a total of 240 grains of BP through my Pedersoli Rocky Mountain Hawken from 3 shots and tried it. Was amazed at how quickly it cut the soot and sped up cleaning in general.
Good morning from Syracuse NY brother and thank you for sharing your adventures
Thanks for watching.
The only thing a well-lubed patch on the ball is going to do is reduce lead fouling. Regardless of putting a patch over the powder or not, the powder IS still fouling the bore just as much. The patch on top of the powder is not reducing the fouling at the breech and is not helping to stop fouling of the barrel as the powder is burning behind the patch atop the powder.
This is why you get the same black swab regardless of the method used.
Yep.....I agree. Excluding this video, another reason why I only use water to wet patches to shoot & clean.
Yep.....I agree. Excluding this video, another reason why I only use water to wet patches to shoot & clean.
How about this challenge no one ever thought of? Using a smooth bore flintlock with a patch, dimple the ball like a golf ball is dimpled to make it fly a lot straighter ! I have never seen this tried yet.😉
I've been asked to try that before but never got around to it. Now...I'm motivated to try this. I need to get a wood rasp & make this happen! Thanks for the idea.
What I use when I know I’m gonna have a long day shooting is a patch soaked in car wash or dish soap with a 75% soap and 25% water never needs a swab and loads like the first time every time..I do use a over powder patch as well
Water is what I use too, except on this video. Thanks for watching.
Interesting experiment, I kind of figured the patches from both would come out about the same, I can't imagine why a patch over the powder would make any difference because all the fouling is behind the patch. As alway's. I enjoyed the video and all the good shooting 👍
The first patch is there to keep the oil from the second patch mixing with the powder.
Thanks my friend.....water is normally all I use, except for this wacky experiment! LOL
Thanks my friend.....water is normally all I use, except for this wacky experiment! LOL
Ballistol & water👍😎
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Looks like WD-40 is definitely a winner Mark.👍🏻
It is slimy but works OK. I will stick with water, my main source of lube for years now.
It is slimy but works OK. I will stick with water, my main source of lube for years now.
No petrol products for me 🫣
What a sticky, smearing, black tar mess, no thanks.
Thats a line i wont cross, hope you can get it out but i think you may be dealin with that wd40 for the next few outings n cleanings. But u wont have to worry about rust😂
You are a wild man 👍
Try cooking oil or Crisco
@themansplainer7726
Are you suggesting that I try cooking oil or crisco?
@@jacobwilbert1018 I got into BP shooting during the Bicentennial back in 1976. I wasnt familiar with shooting them so I joined a BP club in Saratoga NY. There wasn't alot of commercial BP shooting products esp lubes back then, Pyrodex had just come out but real Black Powder was widely available. Anyway a lot of the club members were using Crisco grease so thats what Ive been using most of the time, even till now. You can also mix it with bees wax melted 50/50 together if you like but it works fine alone. Ive never had a problem with it, and there isnt any observable difference between Crisco and commercial BP lubes in my opinion and no corrosion issues.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video. I really didn't have any problems with cleaning. It actually cleaned a little easier because I don't swab much at all.
@@themansplainer7726sam wosk pszczeli roztopiony w kąpieli wodnej nalewam do załadowanych bębnów Colt'a Navy 1851 by zabezpieczyć bęben przed ogniem łańcuchowym. Gorący wosk nie może spowodować zapalenia prochu bo jego temperatura nie przekracza 100⁰C a to o 170⁰C mniej od temperatury zapłonu czarnego prochu. Korki z wosku używam do mojego karabinu na wiewiórki od Ardessy Scout'a .36. W bębnach Colta wosk latem twardnieje po 20 minutach na tyle, że przdmuchy ognia przy strzelaniu nie usuwają wosku z komór jak to dzieje się z każdym smarem. Ładuję bębny w domu bo na strzelnicy nie mam warunków by topić wosk. Dlatego mam pięć bębenków do jednego Colt'a od Pietty .36 i na strzelnicy ładuję tylko karabin. Moim zdaniem do dziurawienia tekturowych tarcz te małe kalibry wystarczą, szkoda że nie ma na rynku rewolwerów .36 o dłuższych niż 8" lufach. Pozdrawiam z Polski.
Love your videos, Mark
Thanks my friend....I love putting this stuff together.
Mark as always great video and willing to do experiments!! I got one experiment for you. I know you can use leaves twigs to shoot round balls and you can shoot round balks without patches but what happens if you shoot cotton like soft white puff cotton that you get at a drugstore or Walmart and brought it with you as a patch can it be done if you load powder, cotton as a patch and ball ??? and always God bless you Mark !!!
I can most certainly put that idea on video soon! Thanks for the suggestion.
arent store bought pre lubed patches lubed with something like cooking oil (maybe vegetable oil) some type of petroleum oil may actually be better than traditionally lubed patches but thing with it is it you could potentially
have remnants of the oil still burning when you reload but i think modern petroleum based lubricants is worth checking into also i wonder how vaseline would work as a bullet lube
I'm not sure what they are lubed with. I have some store bought patches that are real wet...even 2 years later! Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
How well does dryer lint work as wad material in a smoothbore? Is it a cheap alternative that virtually make itself every time you wash your clothes.
I've tried dryer lint in smoothbore before. It works OK. Thanks for watching.
Like that smooth jazz!
Thanks for watching.
Great video
Thanks for watching.
Great shooting options, how about setting up a back board when shooting with WD40 that way will see where the balls were hitting on every missed.
I use to set up cardboard on earlier videos. I can do that again on future videos! Thanks.
I shared your video with my friends
Thanks my friend.
@blackpowdermaniacshooter you are welcome my friend and brother
Holy smokes! Somebody needs to weed the corn!
Yep...LOL. Our season is about over here in KY.
i tried WD40 as a patch lube a few years ago, it burned the patches up, it did not work. but it is good for cleaning the bore.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
My brother in Christ, get the chicken hat out for all those missus
@@BlackPowderTherapist Amen brother….I need too….!!!!!
I've been using the Dawn dish soap, water 50 50. Can shoot all day without swabing.
He does that to clean. He has a video of him cleaning
Spit patches work the same way. Be generous with the spit. It does make you powerful thirsty.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Good video Mark, I know you give your muzzleloader baths like I do now, but do you ever scrape them?
I scraped this gun once and had no caked up powders. Thanks for watching.
What did you use to cone your barrel. I have a 54 cal I've been wanting to do. I'm a lefty too
I had a friend cone it for me. I'm not sure where the found the equipment. Thanks for watching.
hello from France 😎 Occitanie , les Cévènnes
Wow....thank for watching, especially from France!
Wow....thank for watching, especially from France!
I have that same rifle and have never had that kind of ignition speed. What is your loading procedure & what powder do you use to prime?
I use Swiss Null OB or Schuetzen 4F powder for priming powders. I've also drilled the touch hole out to 1/16" inch for better ignition. Thanks for watching.
Somehow, I don't think shooting offhand is a real good test of the accuracy of the rifle. Looked like fun, though!
Amen brother...!! I agree! Thanks for watching.
can you try food grade anti seize lube as patch lube? see if it cleans or works well as a patch lube, im curious cause i read about it in a forum, people say because its not oil based it helps with rust when clean, storing and what not. it has to be food grade, something different about regular anti seize..
Never heard of such a thing. Can you give me a brand name of what you want me to try..,??
@ it’s made by Super Lube. Super Lube food grade anti-seize.
Neat man
Thanks for watching.
This should be interesting.
it was ...sort of corny for sure! Thanks for watching.
Mark I like your channel but I've been shooting BP for 40 years and have always been told never use petroleum products in them . With all the great lubes out there I can't understand why you would use it in your guns.
I prefer ol' water myself for wetting patches & cleaning. I quit using oiled patch lubes ( except for this video ) several years ago.
I prefer ol' water myself for wetting patches & cleaning. I quit using oiled patch lubes ( except for this video ) several years ago.
No, WD40 is convenient to use but
1. vsit makes fired patches smoulder and might start a forest fire.
Also has some kind of petroleum in it that makes fouling hard.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
WD-40 is mainly fish oil , that's why people spray it on their lures when fishing
@@outinthesticks1035 Yep.....
I found WD "Diesels" in my 22 varmint air riffles pellet heals, gives it a sonic crack
@@davefellhoelter1343 That's pretty wild! Wow!
I've tested over powder wads and patches and saw no improvements in accuracy.
This video proves that too. WD 40 is slimy but works OK. I will stick with water, my main source of lube for years now.
This video proves that too. WD 40 is slimy but works OK. I will stick with water, my main source of lube for years now.
👍
Thanks for watching.
I get the $5 large bucket of lard
That should last you for a VERY long time!
WD-40 in a pinch. I’ll stick with de. alcohol and murphy until I get a squeak.
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Yeah but you missed a bunch. Didja see if the patches were blowing?
Never checked the patches.....probably should have. I'll pay attention to them in future projects, thanks.
Never checked the patches.....probably should have. I'll pay attention to them in future projects, thanks.
Good morning from pa I love your videos but I don't think I would use WD-40 because of being to greasy unless you have a sufficient supply of clean clothes but I imagine it would keep the barrel lubed but wouldnt that lead to powder sticking to barrel when you reload . Or would it be cleaned when you run patch over ball down barrel.
I didn't have any problems cleaning this gun when done. In fact, it cleaned easier since I did swab it. Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
That's more like a wad in a shotgun
I agree.....its well patched! Thanks for watching.
This is the proper way to recycle.
Amen brother! Thanks for watching.
It's not a good idea to use WD-40 or any other petroleum product inside the barrel of your muzzleloading rifle. You will create tar rings which after time will make your rifle highly inaccurate. So make sure that you really clean that barrel out good after using that WD-40.
@@kenthatfield4287 In fact, this gun cleaned up quicker than normal. Excluding this project …I’m just a plain ol’ water user for shooting and cleaning patches. Thanks for watching.
@blackpowdermaniacshooter the most important thing is that you got it clean before you got a ring.
@@kenthatfield4287 Amen..I always clean every gun when I'm done. Thanks for watching...
Mixing black powder with wd40 makes acid.
Ouch! Guess one needs to clean his gun for sure! Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
not to sure about that, I did some chem and aerospace fuel systems and Ox stuff in the 90's I recall WD as very inert. black powder makes nitric in the fouled oxidized leftovers. but I know a guy, I'll ask.
I have heard that WD is a petroleum product and doesn’t play well with black powder fowling . Didn’t seem to hurt here.
Sounds like the quest was to shoot a skychief load with a round ball.
"I LOVE" the WD. I hose my smoke poles down with it after a shoot to stop the humidity from reacting with the fouling, before I get time to clean.
Depends on which petroleum product you use.
all DIY edible food grade but the WD
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.
Good Sunday morning to everyone ✝️ Appreciate the video and the update and ideas. Remember everyone through it all seek Jesus Christ in your life and heart for he is the true answer through it all in this old world ✝️💪🙏
Amen brother...Jesus does love us!
WD is fish oil , you should shoot the way they were designed, no lub patches dry powder plug the bore with lube dry patch then ball do this you can shoot all day with out cleaning ,you try to shoot dry like modern guns three four rounds you must cleen . in cold weather a lubed patch will freeze to the ball
Not an issue for people that live in cold states. Dont use petroleum based oils n dont use lubes that harden or freeze.
If u know u know 😉
Thanks for watching. Water is all I use anymore , except on this video.