I discovered your channel today. Your enthusiasm is catching. My grandfather was a carpenter and I inherited his (mostly wooden) planes which I'm attempting to restore and put to work on some small projects. Your videos will be a valuable guide and a great source of information and ideas. I like how you have a high regard for the origins and history of particular manufacturers. Here in Australia old wooden planes and parts sell for excessively high prices, particularly those offered on online forums. Keep up the good work.
You briefly showed a small round plane with an arrow stamped into it. The crow's foot arrow shows it was owned at one time by the British Goverment, usually the army, although 19th C prison property was also marked the same way
The plane was stamped by the makers, J.F. (James) and G.M (George) Lindsey. They were active in Massachusetts from 1856-79. So no to the British government link. But the prison property theory is really interesting. George was working as a deputy sheriff in 1880. Did the brothers have links to the companies that were using prison labor during that time period? This is worth looking into. Great comment and great insight! Thanks!
hello, love your channel. I picked up a jointer plane & I can almost see a makers mark that reads, S.peet or S. peot? does that sound familiar to you at all. keep up the content. good stuff
Just came across your channel, I like what I've seen so far. Maybe you can answer this question. I have casing molders. One is a OTC #43 1/8 stamped on the toe that cuts a 1/2 inch profile as stamped on the heel. The other, a Sandusky is the one that confuses me. It also cuts a 1/2 profile as marked on the heel but the toe is stamped with both 43 1/8 and 54 3/4. Any ideas?
Hello. I've got a moulding plane that looks like the maker is D R Barton. It has a number 44 on the heel. It also shows 7/8 on the heel. It is a quarter round, or ovolo cutting plane. But the measurement I"m getting is not 7/8, it is about 3/4" in radius in both width and depth. Any idea what is going on here? Thanks.
The 44 is definitely the catalog number. The 7/8 should refer to how thick the piece of wood needs to be. Try planing until the depth stop prevents you from going any deeper. If you're only getting 3/4 of an inch deep, they maybe they rounded up?
Abraham, just discovered your videos thanks to Rex Krueger. I am really enjoying them and hope you can do more. I have a wooden jointer, and what appear to be two jack planes, although one is about an inch shorter than the other one, along with some moulding planes. I also have a jointer, jack, and smoothing that are transitional planes. Any thoughts on transitional planes? Thanks.
Transitional planes are fascinating, but I don't collect them. You might already know about it, but Patented Transitional and Metallic Planes in America is a great book. I also have issues of Plane Talk (the plane research newsletter from the 1970s-1990s) on my site that has tons of stuff about transitional planes abrahamhyatt.com/planetalk
I have a Randall & Cook (1835-39) rabbet plane (straight iron 2-1/4" width, no guides or stops), off the top of my head there's a 5/8 stamped on the back. Maybe its a 1-5/8, maybe not. Any idea why?
That's a beefy rabbet plane. But I have no idea about the number. Some planemakers added 1/2 to plane numbers in their catalogs as the company grew and added new plane types. But I doubt anyone would have used 1/8ths.
You remark that you don't know what the "2" is on the plane at 8:18. Well, that plane is a 5/8in ovolo sash beading plane, and those were used in combination with a sticking board to produce sash beads (as required in making up vertical sliding sash windows and the like). These were often sold in pairs of a #1 and a #2 in the UK. The #1 was used to make the initial (rough) moulding cuts, whilst the #2 was reserved for the final cut to exact size - presumably in order to keep the profile exact. It doesn't matter if you have a slightly out of shape and/or worn #1 plane providing your #2 plane is in good condition. For some mouldings (e.g. astragal and quirk hollows such as the Mathieson #539) the #1 may also be missing some of the sharp edges or quirks which are only applied in the final cut by the #2 plane. Based on personal observation combined with having made up vertical sliding sashes with hand planes a couple of times
i just picked up a John Green bead plane from England, it appears to be a 1/2" bead but it has a #15 which I assume is catalog #, but it is also marked " 3 1/2". Any idea what the 3 1/2 would mean.
I don’t know. I checked Whelan and Sellen’s books on wooden planes and they both say bead planes were just marked with the size. I don’t think there are any numbering systems that only the British used. There’s a book I don’t own - John Green, 18th Century York Planemaker - that might have something about it?
Off topic but what is the deal with the notches on plane edges? There are two in the front and two in the back? I've always wondered why most wooden planes have them. There is a good example at 2:32 on your Taber #26. I have them on my Ohio plane as well. Thanks!
They’re purely decorative. The chamfer above the notch is there to soften the corners, maybe for your hand. The notch is called a chamfer end and in the 1700s planemakers used a bunch of different, unique styles. But by the early 1800s it was standardized to a simple notch. This is Dan Shwank cutting his chamfer end: instagram.com/tv/CaSYm1IjTGz
Hi could you please explain. why wood shavings are hidden at profile. sometimes i have trouble. I myself have French Cormier planing. sometimes it bothers me
I'm not sure what you mean by profile, but shavings jam for a couple reasons: the mouth of your plane is too narrow, the blade is not seating correctly in the throat, there is a gap between the chipbreaker and the blade. This video might be helpful for you: ruclips.net/video/EKcMzJ8eXdE/видео.html
If you like wooden plane videos, you'll love this newsletter: workingwoodenplanes.com No sales, no AI slop. Just good stories about planes.
Love it! It’s very interesting, especially the last one about prison labor. It makes me understand and appreciate my wooden planes in a new way.
I discovered your channel today. Your enthusiasm is catching. My grandfather was a carpenter and I inherited his (mostly wooden) planes which I'm attempting to restore and put to work on some small projects. Your videos will be a valuable guide and a great source of information and ideas. I like how you have a high regard for the origins and history of particular manufacturers. Here in Australia old wooden planes and parts sell for excessively high prices, particularly those offered on online forums. Keep up the good work.
Loved this video. You are truly a master of wooden planes and a great resource for those of us who are learning. Arborist Blair Glenn on RUclips
You briefly showed a small round plane with an arrow stamped into it. The crow's foot arrow shows it was owned at one time by the British Goverment, usually the army, although 19th C prison property was also marked the same way
The plane was stamped by the makers, J.F. (James) and G.M (George) Lindsey. They were active in Massachusetts from 1856-79. So no to the British government link. But the prison property theory is really interesting. George was working as a deputy sheriff in 1880. Did the brothers have links to the companies that were using prison labor during that time period? This is worth looking into. Great comment and great insight! Thanks!
hello, love your channel. I picked up a jointer plane & I can almost see a makers mark that reads, S.peet or S. peot? does that sound familiar to you at all. keep up the content. good stuff
Just came across your channel, I like what I've seen so far. Maybe you can answer this question. I have casing molders. One is a OTC #43 1/8 stamped on the toe that cuts a 1/2 inch profile as stamped on the heel. The other, a Sandusky is the one that confuses me. It also cuts a 1/2 profile as marked on the heel but the toe is stamped with both 43 1/8 and 54 3/4. Any ideas?
I don't know! Message me some photos of it on instagram @workingwoodenplanes and I'll try and help.
At 6:00 you say they made a mistake and marked the nosing plane as 1/4" instead of 1-1/4", but it has the word "INCH" in front of the 1/4.
Hello. I've got a moulding plane that looks like the maker is D R Barton. It has a number 44 on the heel. It also shows 7/8 on the heel. It is a quarter round, or ovolo cutting plane. But the measurement I"m getting is not 7/8, it is about 3/4" in radius in both width and depth. Any idea what is going on here? Thanks.
The 44 is definitely the catalog number. The 7/8 should refer to how thick the piece of wood needs to be. Try planing until the depth stop prevents you from going any deeper. If you're only getting 3/4 of an inch deep, they maybe they rounded up?
Abraham, just discovered your videos thanks to Rex Krueger. I am really enjoying them and hope you can do more. I have a wooden jointer, and what appear to be two jack planes, although one is about an inch shorter than the other one, along with some moulding planes. I also have a jointer, jack, and smoothing that are transitional planes. Any thoughts on transitional planes? Thanks.
Transitional planes are fascinating, but I don't collect them. You might already know about it, but Patented Transitional and Metallic Planes in America is a great book. I also have issues of Plane Talk (the plane research newsletter from the 1970s-1990s) on my site that has tons of stuff about transitional planes abrahamhyatt.com/planetalk
Are those catalogs available as pdf somewhere?
I have a Randall & Cook (1835-39) rabbet plane (straight iron 2-1/4" width, no guides or stops), off the top of my head there's a 5/8 stamped on the back. Maybe its a 1-5/8, maybe not. Any idea why?
That's a beefy rabbet plane. But I have no idea about the number. Some planemakers added 1/2 to plane numbers in their catalogs as the company grew and added new plane types. But I doubt anyone would have used 1/8ths.
@@WoodenPlanes I'd guess its for cleaning up tenons and the like.
You remark that you don't know what the "2" is on the plane at 8:18. Well, that plane is a 5/8in ovolo sash beading plane, and those were used in combination with a sticking board to produce sash beads (as required in making up vertical sliding sash windows and the like). These were often sold in pairs of a #1 and a #2 in the UK. The #1 was used to make the initial (rough) moulding cuts, whilst the #2 was reserved for the final cut to exact size - presumably in order to keep the profile exact. It doesn't matter if you have a slightly out of shape and/or worn #1 plane providing your #2 plane is in good condition. For some mouldings (e.g. astragal and quirk hollows such as the Mathieson #539) the #1 may also be missing some of the sharp edges or quirks which are only applied in the final cut by the #2 plane. Based on personal observation combined with having made up vertical sliding sashes with hand planes a couple of times
i just picked up a John Green bead plane from England, it appears to be a 1/2" bead but it has a #15 which I assume is catalog #, but it is also marked " 3 1/2". Any idea what the 3 1/2 would mean.
I don’t know. I checked Whelan and Sellen’s books on wooden planes and they both say bead planes were just marked with the size. I don’t think there are any numbering systems that only the British used. There’s a book I don’t own - John Green, 18th Century York Planemaker - that might have something about it?
Off topic but what is the deal with the notches on plane edges? There are two in the front and two in the back? I've always wondered why most wooden planes have them. There is a good example at 2:32 on your Taber #26. I have them on my Ohio plane as well. Thanks!
The notches is easy for your hand.
They’re purely decorative. The chamfer above the notch is there to soften the corners, maybe for your hand. The notch is called a chamfer end and in the 1700s planemakers used a bunch of different, unique styles. But by the early 1800s it was standardized to a simple notch. This is Dan Shwank cutting his chamfer end: instagram.com/tv/CaSYm1IjTGz
@@WoodenPlanes makes sense! Thanks for the reply and the link.
Hi could you please explain. why wood shavings are hidden at profile. sometimes i have trouble. I myself have French Cormier planing. sometimes it bothers me
I'm not sure what you mean by profile, but shavings jam for a couple reasons: the mouth of your plane is too narrow, the blade is not seating correctly in the throat, there is a gap between the chipbreaker and the blade. This video might be helpful for you: ruclips.net/video/EKcMzJ8eXdE/видео.html
We need uploads!
Thanks! More videos coming soon
I'm not payin no $12! I only gave $4 fory horse. Do you offer a military discount?