How to replace Mercedes w208 engine mounts..w203 similar
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- how to replace left and right main engine mounts on a smaller "C" class and clk class Mercedes with a V6 m112 engine..the mounts on the 4 cylinder cars are similar,but more easily accessible. The w163,w210 may be similar as well, but with more room due to a larger body shell follow me on twitter / fupabox
This looks like it can apply to the V8 version of the W208, this video really helped me out!
Thank you so much!
Almost the same ..with a bit less room to work in .
I've already done this on my V6 S210 (doubtless same as W210 saloon) - dramatic loss of noise and vibration! Learned that if your mounts are shot, you can't rock the engine by hand. Thanks for all your help with so many fixes.
Thx for the video. I have a CLK55 and even tho I had the special offset 16mm tool, I found it easier to use my offset 16mm ratcheting wrench and removing mine from the bottom. I had already removed the washer fluid reservoir. 😉
I just bought a couple of month a CLK 320 w208 facelift, i have to say that is a very sporty car i love it. I like to fix my car myself and you are a very BIG help for me. Thank you Fupa! Ps. Sorry for my bad english. Waiting for more videos!
Had to to stay home cos of virus so changed mounts today (CLK320). All issues resolved, no vibration under load car drives like new (Lemerforder mounts fitted). Didn't have to move alternator only compressor. Undo both bottom mount bolts together to give more engine lift. Old mounts were compressed about 20mm and bottoming out. Well happy! Thanks!!!
excellent
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video! I replaced the mounts in my wife's '98 clk320 and the installation went exactly as you presented. Moving the alternator and the a/c compressor were simple. Getting the air box off the wheel well was more difficult than those. I would add only that it would be wise to get the part number MBA-2186 tool made for the top mount bolt, and a ratchet-wrench for that same bolt. Those helped me greatly. Thanks again!
+Robert Borchardt glad it helped
Great video, ready to fit my new mounts when weather improves. CLK320 vibration through body when engine loaded. Hope it cures my problem!!
Doing this on my W210 tomorrow. Thanks for your help! Wish me luck!
Good luck!
Thank you very much for this video! Couldn't have done it without you! You were right to pry the tensioner back, if you try to use the tamper proof torx bit, it unscrews the tensioner post, no need to do that. "Not a hard job, but a fiddley one"
+completechiroandwell glad it help..yes fiddley is about the right word for it :)
completechiroandwell re
At about 5:28 you mention that the top bolt on the driver’s side engine mount was unexpectedly loose. We never saw how you tested for loose engine mounts, so I am assuming that a loosely bolted engine mount, which is otherwise in good shape, could have been the source of the original engine mount problem. If that is correct, it would seem that checking the mounting bolts first might have been prudent, unless the mounts had obviously disintegrated. A bore scope can be handy in these situations. Thanks for the video. A friend has a W211wagon who has been quoted $1500 by a private mechanic to replace the two engine mounts. I told him I thought it could be done in a hour or so by a DIYer with the necessary jacks and tools for the cost of the two engine mounts (and the cost of the transmission mounts if necessary). Thanks for showing me how to approach such a job - it’s been a while since I have had to do this on a Mercedes.
No the bolt required no initial grunt to break it loose .. just wasn't expected , but not loose enough to have been the source of the mount movement . $1500 ?? yikes .
Thanks for making this video. I have to change my engine mounts front and rear on my w203. I was skeptical about jacking the car up by the oil pan but I guess nothing wrong with that. I have a 06 350 and the engine mounts are horrible. This is the 2nd set (now at 100k). Anyway thanks for making the video. Very helpful.
What a job, I'm looking to replace mine on a later model 320, I have some knocking during driving the car and also has the occasional thump on startup, I have already replaced the transmission mounting.
I hope I have more room.
Yoo good video but that lighting is Killin it bro keep up the good work*
Thanks a lot for your videos. This is helped me a lot already, going to replace my E300 TD engine mounts tommorow!
i'm curious.. what kind of mpg are you getting so far with your m112? i'd like to pick a w210 m112 up in the future. must be a lot smoother too i'm sure than the m104.
average is over 28mpg using a US gallon as a measurement...in mixed city highway...pure highway on long trips ..around 33 mpg
2001 clk 55 I just did the driver side motor mount. Swivel head ratchet from the bottom both screws. No parts removed. The mount slid right out. 20 min job
thanks for your efforts, helps me a heap.
what happens when your engine stops after putting it into reverse?
Great Video! I am going to change the AC compressor and remembered that you undid it on this video. Looks pretty straight forward. Do you remember if it would be easy to take out after the 3 bolts are removed? Thanks!
not tough at all from what I remember..haven't replaced one in prob. 10 years
Work under the car, on passenger side, removed the engine bracket 4 bolts to make the job easier, no need to remove anything except the one you want to replace, I just did it on1999 C230 mercedes
A Canadian with a hockey-puck hack? But of course....
Great effort here btw....
SWF1127 you should see how we use them for cooking :)
***** Have an ex that couldn't boil water so nothing would surprise me....:-)
There's a metal bulb on the back of the a/c compressor that just won't let it go forward enough without removing the power steering unit as well. Mine is a 1998 W208 320
I wonder if there are different types of AC compressor on the same model ?
I took off the power steering unit and it helped but still couldn't get the a/c compressor far enough forward so I cranked the jack two more times and I got it done but just barely. Could be I didn't position the jack properly to get the engine high enough but still the a/c would hardly go forward like yours and the engine was hard against the right side.
Hello great video - does this apply to the W203 C240 4MATIC??? or just the RWD W203?
It should be very similar for the w203 4matic.. the mounts are slightly different though
I have a mb c230k 2004 sport and i was wondering if u have experience on replacing engine mounts on that car.?thanks..
it's pretty much the same as this w202... I checked them for wear on a neighbors w203 , but haven't replaced them...
Ok thanks..i guess is more easy cause mine is 4 cilinder can i do it from up top?
Nelson Oliveras sorry brain fart.. I asumed this comment was on my w202 4cyl video..here ...one video for each side ruclips.net/video/6bxPK1VcKOo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/y5owJViMvc8/видео.html
Thats excellent have you noticed a difference afterwards?
huge difference..car changes direction more positively,more solid going over bumps, and on acceleration and braking it is more hooked up...and my mounts were barely visibly worn at 270k km...if you do them ,also do the rear transmission mount as well...it takes 5 minutes and should always be done when the front main 2 are done...I filmed the tranny mount being done ,but the camera lens was oily ,and the camera died so I didn't finish the video...I have a rear tranny mount video on my w202 playlist ,and it's exactly the same procedure
great video!!!thanks for all the effort!!
Other than the w202 obv which we love what other platforms do you recommend? I have a friend that wants to get a w203 but I've heard they are problematic, esp the transmission and s/c models.
the w203 kompressor is ok if it has been perfectly maintained, the 240 6 cylinder and 3.2l 6 are good engines as well..the 722.6 transmission is good if maintained and fluids changed with MB fluid..BUT, overall the 203 is not as good as the w202.the w210 is a good car after 1998.and before 2003..the g class if one can be found is a solid rock...but tough on gas...as for older cars ,you can never beat a w124 chassis e320 if you can find a low mileage original..it would outlast many new cars. The ML has issues because it was built in the USA...
Hmmm... W210, there's a lot of those on the road here. And actually he said something about maybe wanting a wagon so that'd work. He likes my w202 too though. I've heard the year 2000 w202 is kind of a hodgepodge of 202, 203, 208, 210, etc
The Stiver
a w210 wagon with the 3.2 v6 and no 4matic would be the best all-round as far as reliability,space,and fuel economy...I generally try to find original owner cars...I don't worry as much about mileage,as I do the condition..I put tons of mileage on my cars,and I find cars with higher mileage have been cared for in order for them to reach the high mileage....not always the case,but something I tend to notice more often than not....lots of w210s and w202s for sale here with 350-400k km on them..my old w202 at 350k km was sent to Nigeria to be used as a taxi :) ..if the stock stereo is in it and the A/C works..it's usually a good sign of an older owner who could afford the proper maintenance...the last of the w202s got the kompressor motor,and you are correct,they had some disappointing updates to keep them current...I really wish MB had kept the 4cyl 2.3 naturally aspirated...The Daimler/Chrysler years ,and models released/designed during those years seem not to be as reliable.
You know, I'm the same way about mileage. I dont buy into the low mileage hype b/c the most problematic car I ever bought had 23k miles at 5 yrs old... Sat around too long (it was a Honda too..). My w202 had 190k mi (~340k km) when I bought it but the stock radio and new brakes, water pump, engine harness and its been solid, just needed the wear and tear rubber pieces that much of your videos feature.
Haha of course he just sent me a link for an 04 e500 4matic w211 for sale. Ahhhh not so much...
my motor mount bracket, the metal piece that the motor mount screws into snapped. you can reference the part # A 112 223 37 04, so you can have a better understanding of what im talking about. looking under the car, it looks extrmemly hard to change thiis part because of how tight and where the screws are located for it. would you be able to tell me wether or not im going to have to pull the engine to replace. thanks
+adrian jennings. It is very tight in there...I honestly don't know if it would come out with the engine in the car.. Unfortunately all I can say is to try it and see. Let me know if you are able to get it out without removing the engine. I feel for ya, looks like a job with a lot of swearing involved
thank you very helpful keep it up
Are the same part number the right and left engine mount? Thanks.
+soxlime yes
@@fupabox are you interested in a 2002 W208 CLK55 AMG with 100,000 miles?
Mercedes Lexus Toyota Tempting... If I had space at the moment I would say yes , but unfortunately no room and winter coming :(
@@fupabox yes true but thats why I'd give you a good price on it, how often can you get a low mileage CLK55 below $6,000 USD?
Mercedes Lexus Toyota OMG you're killing me ..great price. Damn , I wish I could , but just no space this year . I even checked a few friends today for garage space to store it till next year . Waiting on a reply for a possible spot in a Condo underground . I'll let you know in a day or so
Nice I'll be doing this shortly
use the offset special tool for the top bolts
Are the engine mounts both the same?
yes...some parts places sell them as a different part and I'm not sure why, but they are the same
fupabox thanks alot 👌
LOL...All these video's removing exhaust, Alt's, etc to get these out. I put my 06 c280 4matic w203 (i believe) on blocks. Pulled off the front tires and simple 2 bolts with couple jack pumps to raise the motor and pulled em out through the wheel well. 5 minutes a side...FYI, anyone looking for root causes leading to this problem...Radiator starts leaking from the bottom, Upper Transmission line repeatedly disconnecting from the radiator, and half boot and clip torn from the inner CV joint led to the identification.
Lance - I also have a 4matic w204 C240 Wagon... would the trans mount replacement be similar to what you described for your c280 4matic? On the RWD w203's they talk about removing exhaust. thanks and reallly appreciate any info you can share as i need to change mine and dealer quoted $1200 which is BS...
@@jvakos It was really easy. Pull your front tire out. The mount should be right there. Use a knuckle on your socket and a long wobble detention to loosen from the top. Take out top bolts on both sides. Put a piece of 2x8 under the oil pan and jack up the motor about an inch. Remove the bottom bolts pull the motor mount put through the wheel well. Put the new motor mount in. Hand thread the top bolt loose and bottom bolt loose. Do the exact same on the other side. Drop the motor on the new mounts slowly. Make sure the tabs are aligned up with the notches on the mounts. As soon as in place and motor set down. Tighten the bolts on both sides. You have to put the front end on stands. No ramps.
My cost was about $150, but I had to replace a front axle also, due to motor mount failure....On the Motor mounts, look for grease on the frame. Both of mine failed and leaked. Could feel a scraping while turning sharp in reverse, was the frame on my front axle from mount failure. Need help with an axle, let me know.:)
@@lancedorsher7217 thanks a TON Lance super helpful!!! Wil give it a try to do my motor mounts this way. Thx!
FYI, this procedure does NOT work on the w203 with a v6 engine. Passenger side yes, but there is a LOT less room on the w203 v6. You will have to remove the exhaust to do this on the w203.
Appreciate the info..
you should get a laser pointer and a shop light. shop light $20 and laser pointer $5= almost price instructional video
Helpful
it is a difficult job, not just fiddly.
The video is fine but lacks good lighting in important parts.
To do the same in S500 W220 1999, what are the steps?
for the passenger side it is easier to remove the top bolt from the bottom, use this special tool : www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Offset-Engine-Socket-Wrench/dp/B008NZRKDE
no need to remove alternator.
good info...ty
should have used proper lighting.
use the offset special tool for the top bolts