Are they two different pieces in the vise? This is not good as only the widest piece gets properly clamped. It is much easier to tilt the parts in the vise instead of tilting the head.
That would be hilarious, but sadly, no. The old Kurt vices had embossed letters that were cast unto the metal prior to machining. He just painted the inside.
When you install the 90 degree head, the quil is lowered down. The 90 degree head clamps to the exposed quil after it is tightening into the collet taper. If the draw bar was much shorter than it is, you would not be able to tighten it with the quil down for the 90 degree head.
It's a reuseable one. As the thread wears it it cut shorter then rethreaded to the original length and the underside of the top diameter is cut back by the same amount.
That machine sounds like somebody is murdering it. Why not just sidemill that with an M42 rougher? Those giant shoulder mills are all just glorified fly cutters, I would never use them for cutting a bevel. If they are used for hogging material they kill the mill head. I do a lot of shipyard prototrak work and M42 roughers + coolant is the most economic way to do low volume work.
I will have to try that. I dont have any formal training so these videos are in a way documenting my learning journey. I never thought about the stress that it puts on the mill head. Thanks for the tip
@@InchFab Inserts dont have the same cutting geometry as a ground end mill. They are more blunt at the edge and behind the edge their angle is more obtuse like a splitting maul vs. a kitchen knife. Solid carbide tools are this way too when compared to HSS/M42. M42 is HSS with 8% cobalt alloyed in. I had 4 35* bevels to mill on 2" thick plate and I did those all sidemilling with a single 3" long 3/4" M42 rougher. M42 end mills are also quite cheap on ebay, great tooling for smaller shops working with lesser machines that dont need short cycle times.
As long as the angle isn't critical following the line is just more time efficient. However if the angle is important, then yeah... you should probably use a sine plate and indicate off of it or something
thank you, very helpful for my upcoming test!
Power knee. I hope you appreciate that.
Yea that sounds amazing.
It is a battery powered drill with an adapter that i made that goes where the crank hooks in
@restoration-projects ahh. Cool. that's better than hand cranking.
Are they two different pieces in the vise? This is not good as only the widest piece gets properly clamped. It is much easier to tilt the parts in the vise instead of tilting the head.
I wouldn’t trust the knuckle scale to give me a true angle. I’ve seen them off as much as 1 degree. Always tram to a correctly set sine bar.
@@alanrawson-wg8io or hold the part at the angle in the vise.
👍
lol did you stencil paint kurt on that vice?
He did lol
looks engraved
That would be hilarious, but sadly, no. The old Kurt vices had embossed letters that were cast unto the metal prior to machining. He just painted the inside.
What happened to traming in that head to a sine plate ?
It was a non critical part so I just used the scale on the mill
I was gonna say the same thing
Neat
That is a cool machine. So what's the difference between a Bridgeport vs Milling Machine?
They are the same. Bridgeport is a milling machine. It’s just a famous manufacturer of milling machines.
@@RW0- Thank you 🙏
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice
Thanks
Ditch the gloves.
Why is the drawbar so long? 😂
I"m not sure exactly, it came that way
When you install the 90 degree head, the quil is lowered down. The 90 degree head clamps to the exposed quil after it is tightening into the collet taper. If the draw bar was much shorter than it is, you would not be able to tighten it with the quil down for the 90 degree head.
Quillmaster JA w/ right angle attachment. Still an extremely valuable bridgeport accessory.
It's a reuseable one. As the thread wears it it cut shorter then rethreaded to the original length and the underside of the top diameter is cut back by the same amount.
That machine sounds like somebody is murdering it. Why not just sidemill that with an M42 rougher?
Those giant shoulder mills are all just glorified fly cutters, I would never use them for cutting a bevel. If they are used for hogging material they kill the mill head. I do a lot of shipyard prototrak work and M42 roughers + coolant is the most economic way to do low volume work.
I will have to try that. I dont have any formal training so these videos are in a way documenting my learning journey. I never thought about the stress that it puts on the mill head. Thanks for the tip
Can you explain this a little more?
@@InchFab Inserts dont have the same cutting geometry as a ground end mill. They are more blunt at the edge and behind the edge their angle is more obtuse like a splitting maul vs. a kitchen knife. Solid carbide tools are this way too when compared to HSS/M42. M42 is HSS with 8% cobalt alloyed in. I had 4 35* bevels to mill on 2" thick plate and I did those all sidemilling with a single 3" long 3/4" M42 rougher. M42 end mills are also quite cheap on ebay, great tooling for smaller shops working with lesser machines that dont need short cycle times.
@@phalanyx3478 got it, thank you.
Is that a rotary?
if you used the degree wheel on the mill your 8 is off
As long as the angle isn't critical following the line is just more time efficient. However if the angle is important, then yeah... you should probably use a sine plate and indicate off of it or something
@@ryanthelancemain3871 its more time efficient to simply tilt the part.
If you don't indicate an angle standard and just rely on the mill markings you are not s qualified machinist