Hello mikeno, thank you for your perfect help with the video. Now my D 300 is perfect for IR-Photography and the first results are really good. Well done!
A small tip for you when you cut the glass. The ball end of the cutter is for tapping the back side of your glass scoring. A couple gentle taps will produce micro fractures down your score line letting you snap your glass off easier.
When taking out the screws from the camera I always have like four A4 paper sheets with a sketch of the camera and where each screw goes. It is easier when you need to put them back
Hello, thanks for this video! I will probably do this with mine. I have a sort of related question: Is it possible to put a full frame sensor on the d300? Or do I just buy a new camera?
THE SOLDERING AT ABOUT THE MIN 12 WHATS ITS THEIR PURPOSE? DO YOU THINK IS JUST FOR FIXING THE METAL AT THE BOARD OR PLAYS OTHER ROLE THERE? THANKS 4 SHARING AND HOPE YOUR ANSWER
Hello Mikeno , I'm an electronics engineer with all the anti static equipment , anti static mat & wrist strap , I carefully disconnected the serial connectors that feed the rear screen & rear controls to the D 300 , I was very careful with the serial connectors , despite all the careful precautions , after reassembly the rear screen was blank ,just black as in it looked like the camera was off no information at all , i was wondering if you could advise as to what went wrong ?.
Excellent video!!!can I ask how you knew dimensions of the ir filter size?I am looking to convert my canon 10d to ir however I can't find filter size anywhere online...don't wan't to take camera apart and then measure it as this would leave sensor exposed to dust,any ideas please??
Great informative video !! Did you consider using a Kodak Wratten Gelatin infrared filter which could be cut with scissors ... and might have let you keep the vibrating/cleaning thing?
both glasses he removed are cutting out IR. So if you leave the cleaning glass you still are cutting out a great portion of IR signal. I have experienced this myself and had to disassemble the camera twice!
Thank's Klapeful, The screw driver I use in this video is a modified "WERA" PH00 that I have filed the very pointy tip so it fit's perfect in the screw head, so it will work almost as a JIS00. But of course you should use a real JIS00, that you can get here at www.ifixit.com. eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Drivers-Wrenches/JIS-Driver-Set.html?Fixit&Referral& Cheers Kenneth
Does anyone know of the exact thickness of the low pass/ir filter? Would like to replicate the thickness as lose as possible (not sure if that will help tune the autofocus)
I find it always fascinating watching what you get up to. Would this type of conversion be a full-spectrum, or does that involve a different type of filter? Thank you, you've encouraged me to pull some old AI Nikkor lenses apart with imperfections with mould etc, and actually get them back together again.. Regards from Salisbury East in South Australia, Paul.
Enjoyed the video. I've wanted to do the same on an old DSLR. I noticed you didn't solder the metal cover back onto the board. Do you have problems with grounding or shorting with movement and handling? Curious why its not necessary to solder that part.
Well, I found out later when I assemble the camera that I simply forgot it, but since there are 6 screws that actually hold the metal cover in place it's not realy important for the camera to work correct.
Hey, thanks for sharing! It helped me a lot. I only had a lot trouble to unscrew the 3 screws to get into the sensor. What product did you use to soften the screws? And what wrench size did you use?
Hi .. You videos are really great way to learn about fixing camera gears. I fixed my Hasselblad H2 shutter curtain just by watching u. I am no facing mirror sticking issue with my d700 can u give a solution for that? Thanks a lot for making this great videos ..
Thank's Emran, I happy that my film could help you to get your Hasselblad H2 back to life again. About your Nikon D700 there could be many issues, broken part's or the mechanism to move the mirror is stuck or broken. But you can get a repair manual for your camera on this website: arcticwolfs.net/ scroll down and you will find it
mikeno62 hi thanks for u suggestion. I might need a bit more. Caz I am not much familiar with hardware works. The problem I found when I press shutter button it takes the photo and mirror keeps up and by pressing depth of field (DOP) button it comes down.
Just an idea, have you checked the dial on the top left side of the camera, if the "Mup" is set, the camera will when pressing the shutter button, flip up the mirror and when the next press on the shutter button, the camera will take the picture. If you want the camera to work just like normal (press the button, take a picture), then the dial should set at "S" (single shot)
Very good explanations, Mike, thank you a lot. I have a small question about the "new" filter: how could you find that dimmensions (29,80x22,65)? It was before disansembled the camera, or you measured only after you had taken out the hot mirror filter? Thank you in advance :)
Well, I first disassemble my camera and take out all the filtres and then measure what size the IR filter should have, then cut it into the correct size filter I use a glass cutter. I then assemble my camera again, just to get ready to actually make the video and put in the IR filter.
Yes, when working with microelectronic just like in DSLR cameras and new lenses, it's really a good thing have the antistatic band on your wrist and it should be electrically grounded (⏚), it will protect the fine electronic components from being damaged.
After all this labor, you can only take infrared pics now. why don't you replace the IR-cut filter with a BCF? that way you can not only do astrophotography, but also do infrared photography with your R72 filter, as well as regular photography with an IR lens filter.
I'm taking infrared pictures with an infrared filter attached to the front of the lens on my digital with adjusted stop and shutter speed. No need going disassembling camera.
This method allows normal shutter speeds for hand-holding as if there was no filter, as well as the ability to do a preset WB in-camera. There are other advantages as well, like being able to use lenses with large front elements and no filter threads, etc.
Hi! I already had converted an old Fuji S3Pro to IR (ruclips.net/video/_c9ocDCTFo0/видео.html), but now that camera doesn´t work anymore so I am converting my old D300 and i have a question. It is really necesary to completly remove the dust reduction filter? Thanks.
Sad to hear about your old Fuji S3 Pro :-). About the D300, I removed the dust reduction filter because the IR filter I use in this case was very thick, I will guess you can get the IR filter thinner but I'm not sure where.
@@mikeno62 curious thing... with the FujiS3Pro you have to compensate the EV +3 so, you can work whit, let´s say, normal shutter speeds and F stops, but with the Nikon D300 you need waaaay more light to get a good exposure with the same IR filter (760nm). I had to use "spacers" on the sensor array so the focus was kind of "misaligned"... Anyway, the filter get broken so I need to buy another one, but this time I will buy a 720nm filter (I asume is thinner than the 760nm)
Dubito che 2,33mm sia il giusto spessore da usare sulla D300 dato che è ricavato da un filtro circolare standard Hoya IR72. Inoltre non parla di messa a fuoco. Bah!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello mikeno, thank you for your perfect help with the video. Now my D 300 is perfect for IR-Photography and the first results are really good. Well done!
Thanks Hans, I'm happy to know that.
bravo..thank you
This helped a lot in modifying my D200 for astrophotography. Thankyou.
A small tip for you when you cut the glass. The ball end of the cutter is for tapping the back side of your glass scoring. A couple gentle taps will produce micro fractures down your score line letting you snap your glass off easier.
Excellent learning video! Thank you very much mikeno62! Great work sir!
I couldn't have done it without you.
Love it! You'r clearly bonkers, but my kind of bonkers! well done.
Can you post some examples of what images look like after this conversion, please?
Great video
When taking out the screws from the camera I always have like four A4 paper sheets with a sketch of the camera and where each screw goes. It is easier when you need to put them back
Hi, INTRESTING... Would be nice to see some photo from this conversion and if it look well .... or gone well... ;)
Brilliant - now I know why it costs so much to have a camera converted! 😱
No samples? Thanks for video !
wow wow wow master, greetings for Perú
can i leave the sensor without ir filter? and just just put the filter on the lens?
Yes you can !
Hello Kenneth. Mirror on my D300 is constantly up (no error indicator) when I push it down by hand, it does not stay down in place. Thank you.
it is not in "Mup" mode :)
I have the same problem, wondering to know if there is a way to fix it...
Did you at all solder the blank motherboard cover back on. I did not notice. And if not, Why not?
What is the size of screwdriver that you used to remove the 3 sensor screw with threadlock?
Did you not need to re-solder the ground plate? (47:00)
Yes , you do !
Hello, thanks for this video! I will probably do this with mine. I have a sort of related question: Is it possible to put a full frame sensor on the d300? Or do I just buy a new camera?
No the focus distance is wrong for full frame parts won't fit electronics are wrong
THE SOLDERING AT ABOUT THE MIN 12 WHATS ITS THEIR PURPOSE? DO YOU THINK IS JUST FOR FIXING THE METAL AT THE BOARD OR PLAYS OTHER ROLE THERE? THANKS 4 SHARING AND HOPE YOUR ANSWER
Hello Mikeno , I'm an electronics engineer with all the anti static equipment , anti static mat & wrist strap , I carefully disconnected the serial connectors that feed the rear screen & rear controls to the D 300 , I was very careful with the serial connectors , despite all the careful precautions , after reassembly the rear screen was blank ,just black as in it looked like the camera was off no information at all , i was wondering if you could advise as to what went wrong ?.
Did you find the solution to you problem? ,as I have the exactly same issue.
Excellent video!!!can I ask how you knew dimensions of the ir filter size?I am looking to convert my canon 10d to ir however I can't find filter size anywhere online...don't wan't to take camera apart and then measure it as this would leave sensor exposed to dust,any ideas please??
Great informative video !! Did you consider using a Kodak Wratten Gelatin infrared filter which could be cut with scissors ... and might have let you keep the vibrating/cleaning thing?
Thanks Ron, I did not know about those filters, but it's a great idea to make a Infrared camera :-) the "easy" way
both glasses he removed are cutting out IR. So if you leave the cleaning glass you still are cutting out a great portion of IR signal. I have experienced this myself and had to disassemble the camera twice!
Wratten filters may warp if camera gets too hot.
Hi, great video, it's very helpful !
Can you write the references of the screwdriver you use during the whole video ? Thanks :)
Thank's Klapeful, The screw driver I use in this video is a modified "WERA" PH00 that I have filed the very pointy tip so it fit's perfect in the screw head, so it will work almost as a JIS00.
But of course you should use a real JIS00, that you can get here at www.ifixit.com.
eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Drivers-Wrenches/JIS-Driver-Set.html?Fixit&Referral&
Cheers
Kenneth
is that the standard size to cut for crop sensor? i want to convert my d7000 also
Does anyone know of the exact thickness of the low pass/ir filter? Would like to replicate the thickness as lose as possible (not sure if that will help tune the autofocus)
D70 is 1.3mm probably not much different.
I find it always fascinating watching what you get up to. Would this type of conversion be a full-spectrum, or does that involve a different type of filter? Thank you, you've encouraged me to pull some old AI Nikkor lenses apart with imperfections with mould etc, and actually get them back together again..
Regards from Salisbury East in South Australia, Paul.
Enjoyed the video. I've wanted to do the same on an old DSLR. I noticed you didn't solder the metal cover back onto the board. Do you have problems with grounding or shorting with movement and handling? Curious why its not necessary to solder that part.
Well, I found out later when I assemble the camera that I simply forgot it, but since there are 6 screws that actually hold the metal cover in place it's not realy important for the camera to work correct.
Hey, thanks for sharing! It helped me a lot. I only had a lot trouble to unscrew the 3 screws to get into the sensor. What product did you use to soften the screws? And what wrench size did you use?
he used acetone
Hi .. You videos are really great way to learn about fixing camera gears. I fixed my Hasselblad H2 shutter curtain just by watching u.
I am no facing mirror sticking issue with my d700 can u give a solution for that?
Thanks a lot for making this great videos ..
Thank's Emran, I happy that my film could help you to get your Hasselblad H2 back to life again. About your Nikon D700 there could be many issues, broken part's or the mechanism to move the mirror is stuck or broken.
But you can get a repair manual for your camera on this website:
arcticwolfs.net/
scroll down and you will find it
mikeno62 hi thanks for u suggestion. I might need a bit more. Caz I am not much familiar with hardware works. The problem I found when I press shutter button it takes the photo and mirror keeps up and by pressing depth of field (DOP) button it comes down.
Just an idea, have you checked the dial on the top left side of the camera, if the "Mup" is set, the camera will when pressing the shutter button, flip up the mirror and when the next press on the shutter button, the camera will take the picture.
If you want the camera to work just like normal (press the button, take a picture), then the dial should set at "S" (single shot)
Very good explanations, Mike, thank you a lot. I have a small question about the "new" filter: how could you find that dimmensions (29,80x22,65)? It was before disansembled the camera, or you measured only after you had taken out the hot mirror filter? Thank you in advance :)
Well, I first disassemble my camera and take out all the filtres and then measure what size the IR filter should have, then cut it into the correct size filter I use a glass cutter. I then assemble my camera again, just to get ready to actually make the video and put in the IR filter.
@@mikeno62 Thank you again, Mike :)
Nice video. It 's the band on your hand necesary?
Yes, when working with microelectronic just like in DSLR cameras and new lenses, it's really a good thing have the antistatic band on your wrist and it should be electrically grounded (⏚), it will protect the fine electronic components from being damaged.
Why didn't you show any photo's ?
The edit program would not allow me do add pictures. So I change edit program to filmora.
After all this labor, you can only take infrared pics now. why don't you replace the IR-cut filter with a BCF? that way you can not only do astrophotography, but also do infrared photography with your R72 filter, as well as regular photography with an IR lens filter.
Image samples would be great ... and useful
I'm taking infrared pictures with an infrared filter attached to the front of the lens on my digital with adjusted stop and shutter speed. No need going disassembling camera.
This method allows normal shutter speeds for hand-holding as if there was no filter, as well as the ability to do a preset WB in-camera. There are other advantages as well, like being able to use lenses with large front elements and no filter threads, etc.
The factory has special tweezers. Lol
Hi!
I already had converted an old Fuji S3Pro to IR (ruclips.net/video/_c9ocDCTFo0/видео.html), but now that camera doesn´t work anymore so I am converting my old D300 and i have a question. It is really necesary to completly remove the dust reduction filter?
Thanks.
Sad to hear about your old Fuji S3 Pro :-). About the D300, I removed the dust reduction filter because the IR filter I use in this case was very thick, I will guess you can get the IR filter thinner but I'm not sure where.
@@mikeno62 curious thing... with the FujiS3Pro you have to compensate the EV +3 so, you can work whit, let´s say, normal shutter speeds and F stops, but with the Nikon D300 you need waaaay more light to get a good exposure with the same IR filter (760nm). I had to use "spacers" on the sensor array so the focus was kind of "misaligned"... Anyway, the filter get broken so I need to buy another one, but this time I will buy a 720nm filter (I asume is thinner than the 760nm)
Dubito che 2,33mm sia il giusto spessore da usare sulla D300 dato che è ricavato da un filtro circolare standard Hoya IR72. Inoltre non parla di messa a fuoco. Bah!
It's a pain to get inside a D300, these stupid rubber parts/damaged sticky tape and various screws hidden everywhere. No fun at all.
That's true Dorf, but there is even more hidden screws in many Fuji X cameras :-o