Exactly. My husband is in a wheelchair and had to have toggles installed to make it easier to reach and control when he was alone, because the dogs went in the regular door while he used the large lift door. 5R in Sanford, FL did all his adaptions on both of our last 2 RVs.
It's hurts to think that you put so much into the relationship and made a commitment on so many levels and sacrifices to make things work. Here's hoping you recoup and regain quickly. Make the best of your new digs, nothing lasts forever! Be safe! 🙂
How would anyone think the wire side should go on the door itself ! These magnetic switches are available from a car audio / alarm dealer, which includes Best Buy
The most important thing is to keep Jax happy. lol You are good at figuring out fixes for your situations. Its no different than owning a home - something is always going wrong. Keep at it, Eric. Its what makes coming here and watching so interesting and you're helping a lot of people at the same time.
I would leave the tv and get a projector and put up a pull-down screen by the dinette window so when eating you have the forward tv and when on the couch you will have the pull-down screen.
Yes! I have a projector in my living room, no TV - if you are really adventurous, you can buy an ultra short throw which only requires 2" of clearance from the wall. I have one of those (from LG), projects a 70" picture 4" from the wall. BTW, you can get pretty good short throw projectors that used to be in classrooms for cheap (less than $200), but they are pretty big compared to consumer units.... Also, you could do a flip down TV over the window as an option.
I have complete confidence, that you will fix all of the things, cuz you are so good at investigating every detail. I enjoy seeing your videos on your everyday life. plus all of the suggestions that people give you, are so helpful and shows that people care about others.
The door is wired backwards. The wire part should be on the threshold,,, then the magnet on the door. Then no wire to flex. You just got caught in the 50/50 rule that things can be installed backwards.
Steve Harkins Yes..seems to be situated backwards. It would be better if the wires stayed inside and just the magnet was on the door. Also it would be a good idea to have a manual method as well.
Steve, My thought too but I figured hey they must have done it that way for some reason, it was a reason I could not imagine though lol, good one of calling it out! Mike or Jimmy, a short circuit eventually insures a service call huh.
Hey Eric, those magnetic switches either open or close the circuit, so you could easily put in a switch or two to either short the circuit before the magnet or open the circuit. This would provide the manual over ride you are looking for.
I like the swapping out the love seat for a recliner idea. I think a recliner that swivels would be good because then you can situate yourself in multiple positions.
This is what I really enjoy about your channel. You keep it real. Not everyday is going to be perfect & not everyone knows everything about everything! Hugs to you & Jax. Safe travels.
That sucks! I'd take them off permanently and use a little foldable step ladder you can bring in and out. Hopefully, things will get better. You and Jax have the best attitudes for RV traveling! Thanks for sharing!
Looks to be installed bass ackwards. The part with the wires should be mounted to the door frame and the magnet mounted to the door. Keeps the wires safe.
Your right on with that. My 32 ft Canadian triple e is done like you say. Always worries me when a “metallic” wire bends continuously....we all know what happens.
Hi Eric, I just installed the same theatre recliners that RVing with Tito did and they are terrific!!! The one thing you should keep in mind is that he installed his in what was formally his dinette. In our Coachmen Mirada, I took out their very uncomfortable sofa bed, which is just like yours. The issue I ran into is that I needed to extend the platform by 6 inches in order to accommodate the space requirements of the seats. I sit it by screwing down a piece of 66 in by 3.5 feet of half inch birch plywood. It worked perfectly. They’re one of the best enhancements we made to our RV!! Best regards!
You are a freaking genius! I can’t believe how much stuff you have figured out through all these videos I have seen. I would just become so exasperated and just rip the stairs right off of the damn thing!
You are the prime example of being a Mr. Fix It...!!! Occasional frustrations and snaff-foo’s just are part of the territory of RV living. Thankful that Eric shares the good and the bad and shows people how to think things thru and solve problems. There is no purr-fect RV. Customize it to “your” personal likes and go for it😉😁👍🇺🇸 Safe travels and keep an eye on spring weather forecasts😉
Hi Eric, it's Dave in Raleigh again. In response to your stair question; I'm in an old Bounder (8 years now) and this thing has no slides or automatic leveling, the awnings are manual and as simple as it is there still seems to be little things all the time that require attention. When my steps stopped working I disabled them by unbolting the control arm and tied the steps in the up position with a couple of those Panduit straps that are used in HVAC, or wire ties. That was more than a year ago and I haven't gotten back to it yet. I don't really miss the steps and for what they are they're really overly complicated but the pin is in the cup holder next to my driver's seat. I can step up until I get around to it. The racket in your furnace is undoubtedly the squirrel cage blower, the only moving part in the whole thing. Use your wave and don't look back. I've never heard a quiet one either. You could try changing it out with a better quality part, but it might do the same thing. In RVs built on a bus platform they're usually in the basement. In class A motor homes the furnace is under the fridge or somewhere close to where you always seem to sit and the return is an open grated with the blower right behind it so the screen might as well not even be there because it still sounds (as yours does) like it's right in the room with you. But don't worry, at the rate you're going another year or two and you'll be in one of those big busses and then you won't have to hear it anymore. In the meantime, try not to stress! You'll figure all this stuff out.
Sorry, that happened to you. On our RV (2012 Thor ACE) the magnet is on the door and the wired part is stationary (Less movement). very odd it's reversed on yours. Best of luck getting a permanent fix. As an override, I've moved the stairs in and then unplugged the power harness going into the stair to keep them in. We had to do this one time when I got the RV stuck in the sand and the stairs kept hitting the ground.~Mike
For the furnace noise, Mine did that too, when I replaced it, I bought the same part #, but with a "Q" at the end...Stands for quiet...What a HUGE difference it makes!!!
Thanks for sharing this real bit of RV life. Almost two years in to our RV we think we have finally solved two of our nagging problems this week by replacing our stovetop and replacing a cracked section of the gray line which we have been repeatedly assured was fixed🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻
We stored the couch and replaced it with two small lazy boy recliners. When we camp we move one recliner out into the flor facing the TV and rotating the other recliner where it is.......works fantastic.
Man, i've been watching your videos since day 1. It is amazing the transformations you've been through. I even had a van i converted myself and lived in for 2 years not long after you had your van. I'm back in an apartment now lol.
I was looking to see if anybody suggested the squeal was more than a noise problem. That should be the first thing you think of when you hear a motor squealing...is that a bearing?
I changed a motor in mine. Kudos to Camping World Bowling Green KY for sending the right one. The plastic wheel came off easily but the metal wheel on the “fire” side was stuck bad. Plenty of PB Blaster and a sharp punch to the shaft. Wood blocks, 48 oz hammer. I held the punch with vise grips, well away from my hand.
I had a circuit board go out on my Dometic furnace when I had an RV, I called around and learned that the new board was about $100 and that NO, they would not ship it to me to install it myself, I had to take the furnace to an authorised RV repair shop and have them do it- 2 slip on wires and 2 screws. So I took the furnace in my car the hour drive each way to get that done, that's another issue to be aware of- proprietary parts and mfr's of anything related to gas furnace etc refusing to sell parts to you.
My furnace doesnt make that noise in my current RV my last rv did but I used a dry graphite lubricant on the blower fan wheel and it eliminated the sound so every 3 months I just added a little more after the 3rd time took another year b4 noise started to faintly come back but just lubricated it again
Have you thought about a drop down screen and projector instead of a tv? In an rv it would save a lot of space and you could have it out when you wanted. New projectors don’t even need a super dark room.
Had the same trouble in Yellowstone with the step. I banged, i sprayed it nothing. So I just removed the pins that go to the motor, slide the step in, then I bungee corded it till I could get out of the freezing weather. Then when the step starts to work again just slide the pin back in and I used a cotter pin so it is easier to remove next time. Hope this makes somewhat since. Oh yes Eric the motors do go out mine went after 19 years. Just keep it lubed and clean it will last for a few more years. Have fun.
My coachmen U can sit in my wrap around dining table and pull out TV towards U. I can watch TV without turning my head. Mine is the 2016 Coachmen 21rs. Great video. Thank goodness i dont have the electric steps!!!!!
That's a great idea! Otherwise, all the weight takes its toll on the plastic gearing inside the motor. My first motor wore out in just 2 years. I'm going to try the leveling blocks next time.
I helped a fellow RV'er that had same issues with the steps the morning he was leaving. We had to disconnect the motor and use zip ties to hold steps up /closed. He said he was going to order new motor at next stop. Being older in age & having this happen is not a good thing. Totally agree that there should be a second system that would automatically kick in or a button you press to work it in emergencies. Thanks for sharing and you/Jax have Blessed Travels.
Wouldn't it make more sense to have the wired component on the coach and the unwired magnet on the door? Seems to be installed backwards to me. So funny, talking about the TV placement I was wondering if you follow RVing with Tito because he just installed a lifting TV cabinet. 2 seconds later, you mention him! LOL!
For-what-it's-worth: I looks to be a simple Reed Switch. The reed switch portion of the circuit is currently wired to the door. It does seem to be wired backwards (the magnet should actually be on the door itself). It is just a 2 wire connection. Walmart (Lowes also Home Depot) should have cheap wire, a small LED-lit (so you will always be aware that you converted it to a manual option) on-off switch, and some electrical tape. You might be able to bypass the unit and mount the on-off switch someplace close to the inside steps to open-close the steps.
Eric, you can, if needed, disconnect the arm that moves the steps. If you get stuck, you can disconnect the arm and free up the steps, then you can use a bungie cord to hold the steps up until you have a fix. You can use a step stool in the meantime. (This is only is case you have a failure that prevents you from driving...you can, in fact disconnect and drive)
Eric, there is a user serviceable way to disconnect the system. You have to do this when you are replacing the motor, or properly lubricating the system. On the rod (like an axle) parallel to the side of the rig, (the motor turns the cam which pushes the linkage which then turns the axle) there should be a cotter pin or a hitch pin clip, that when you remove it, the motor and everything is still intact, but mechanically you have removed the connection point between the linkage and the shaft. the pin goes THROUGH the outer sheath that surrounds the inner axle. (This is a lube point) Also, if you cannot find that or there isn't one, you can remove the bolt holding the linkage between the cam and the axle or shaft. There is only one bolt there, and it is easily accessible. Once you remove one of those, the steps will just hang so you would need to bungee them in the retracted position to drive.
That's great to get in. But how would you deploy them to get out. (not all of us are spry enough to JUMP out without them. Oh and once you are in how do you close them. LOL maybe a milk crate on a rope. Throw it out. pull it in the coach when leaving.
@@paulrodrigues9603 In my mind, I have already designed a lever operated, manual system. Small recessed lever handle next to exit would deploy or retract steps on demand, quickly. And yes, I have lots of time on my hands.
Hey great video... Don't sell yourself short. You figured it out. Regarding your sofa, my suggestion is the single recliner, you can get some really good ones and you wouldn't be limited to the RV only ones. But I would suggest a swivel base and a table on the stove side. I have a swivel base on the recliner I have in my house and when I go full time I'm really going to miss that. I may have to buy a home base just so I can keep my chair... I digress... If you want to keep the dinette you can move it out away from the wall and insert a cabinet with a televator to raise it and lower it in front of the window. But that's a lot of work. Simplest thing is to get the one recliner and it can be a household version. But remember the swivel. All the best, Pat
Sit down, pet Jax, take a deep breath and considering these frustrating things that they can be fixed. Continue seeing the beauty you have experienced and be thankful. I am as a subscriber. :)
Sir Eric u have been doing yr videos in a great way I love the way u make yr vids The way u speak in the vids Have given much knowledge about RV And i never miss any of yr vids Big fan of you This is my first comment on yr vids haha Love from Germany
Eric is an inspiration, and he has taught his followers many things. His videos are uplifting because he always believes there's a solution to every problem, and on that he's accurate.
Eric, on the topic of the furnace vs the catalytic heater. Most RV'ers are reluctant to use the heater because of power draw from the house batteries, because they are using AGM, Lead Acid and have at most half the rated power, not to mention most coaches come equipped with puny battery banks. Since you have 300 amp hours and can use 90% as well as solar to replenish why not use the on-board system. Like the generator these systems last much longer if used regularly. As Phil pointed out the furnace will keep your plumbing warm.
Hey Eric I sell tires and truck rims for a living you should switch those steel wheels out to aluminum Alcoa’s they are a little lighter and no simulators and they would look awesome on there and you might get a little better fuel mileage that’s what most of the big rigs do they switch from Steel to all aluminum rims to get more miles per gallon
I have a similar reclining loveseat in our park model, actually got it cheap from a camping buddy whose rig was still under warranty because of a crease in the material! Nothing at all wrong with the function and it's extremely comfortable. They kept the cupholders for their new replacement. Our TV is located almost directly across and it works well. Might try some 3 in 1 oil on the blower fan, drill a tiny hole in the housing enough for the tip and get it in there. It will quiet it down some but it will eventually need replaced.
I would recommend using blue threadlock for your wheel simulators. It helps keep the nut from coming loose but the nut can be removed if need be. Do not use the red threadlock as it is for permanent applications. I use the blue stuff for nuts and fasteners on my Harley Davidson, (lots of vibration), and it works great. Give it a try, it's not that expensive and can be found at Walmart and auto parts stores.
For the tv situation, put your reclining camping chair in place of the sofa. They work great and fold up easily. No moving the tv. The camping chair can be moved and adjusted.
Owning a motorhome is an adventure in itself. There's always something going wrong. But it's still fun you got your home with you at the beach in the mountains where ever you want it.
Why don't you just turn your future "workstation" into a T.V. room? ....get a really nice recliner, set up a T.V. , add some T.V. trays or such. So then you don't have to compromise the rest of the RV! ....just a thought! :)
Had the same issue just this week. We disconnected the pin from the actuator motor. Then, we were able to retract the steps and use a zip tie to keep the steps in so we could drive. We are now using a $8 plastic step from DG. The truth is we may never decide to use the steps agin unless we can override or dis-engage the system.
Why would the installer fit the reed switch and magnet the wrong way around? The magnet should be on the door and switch mounted to the frame. That was doomed to fail at some point.
Hey man that’s cool the furnace working directly off of solar . That’s awesome surviving and staying warm . If you were able to plug in somewhere that would be obviously ideal for a few days . You got it figured out
Eric, have you thought about putting the tv on a tv mount that will articulate outwards and angled so that it faces the couch? You can also build a nice shallow shelf/cabinet to match the existing cabinets above the passenger side front window for your gaming systems. RV with Tito did a great video on building a new command centre above his door that you can take inspiration from. As for the furnace, it's not supposed to sound like that. I'm off grid in Canada in my 1984 Class A and all it sounds like is blowing air and has always sounded like that for the past four years of constant use in the cold months.
When I was looking for a Bluebird Class A to buy 15 years ago, one of the mandatory things was no slides. My friends who had slides had nothing but problems. 15 years later, the friends with even newer coaches are having slide problems. Not once in 15 years has my coach had a slide problem. Not one...because I don't have any...and I love it that way. Also, some of the fancy doohickies of my Bluebird have been replaced with tried and trued equipment. Example: My factory air powered fancy toilet with 7 way synchronizing air valve with dedicated (yes, dedicated to the toilet operation) air compressor? GONE! Standard china bowl foot pedal operated toilet? Yes! I did go big on the electrical system upgrade with heavy duty dual inverters. If one inverter goes bad, I unplug it from the rack and send it in for repairs while the other inverter continues to supply power. Dual house water pumps. If one goes bad, the other takes over with a flip of the switch. Simple systems. Redundancy.
@@sunnybluesky440 You and I think alike. I like having a backup so when the primary fails, it can take over while the primary is getting repaired. Preparedness, simplicity, redundancy, are positive ideals.
We had a 1999 Fleetwood Bounder that had steps that would work when they wanted. Would come out as we were driving down the road and not come out when we parked. Hubby replaced all kinds of parts, would work for awhile. We learned to look before taking that first step out!! Good luck!!
It is indeed, but if anyone can figure it out and makeshift until he can fix it properly, Eric's ingenious. It is frustrating to buy something and hope everything works, however, as with all things they just won't in time...usually when you can least afford it.
Mount the TV at the end of the cabinet over the dinette. Mount the TV on a swing away so you can store it against the wall over the passengers' window but can be swung out to be watchable even from the dinette. And, as many others here are saying, your door switch is mounted backward. Probably a replacement by someone who wasn't very handy. The wires should be in the RV and not getting bent up by the door. You can install a jumper wire and toggle (whatever) switch to the existing wires for the magnetic switch and easily bypass it when necessary.
I should have warned you not to buy a Coachmen because I owned one and it was not built well. We were lucky to get rid of it. That's why they are cheap!
@Kat LeRoi Yeah, but CVK won't have any issues he can't handle. He's incredibly handy and smart AF! ;-) He's the kind of guy I'd love to carry around in my back pocket!
If you remove the slide switch panel. Theirs over ride buttons. Behind the switches. And you can also find the control box and unhook one slide switch the wiring on the control box to operate the slide. If all else fails. You pull the motors set screws pull the motors. And reinstall them after you manually push the slide in. Ya being a RV technician is real fun. Always challenging.
I had a similar situation with my steps, but the motor burned out from being overloaded with electricity. The steps were in the down position and we couldn't move. It was out very first camping experience on the very first day and didn't know what to do. Campground management gave us a mobile service tech, he couldn't come until Monday, two days. We opted to have them tied in the up position, drove to Camping World, another mistake, had the steps and motor replaced. The generator went out, plus the electrical system, replacing the fuse box. Camping World took 3 tries each at 3 week costing us $2000 to get it fix. Plus my foot stool was missing (taken) as well. Never again service at Camping World.
Eric, A) Move the Magnets away from the Hinge Side. That way you can get the wiring out of the way and keep it from breaking from repeated flexing. It's not hard if you think about it. B) Bypassing the Motor should be easy enough. Put in a switch that would emulate having the Magnets touching. About five minutes worth of work when you think about it. Replace the Love Seat with a single Chair. Mount the Chair on a Pivot so you can turn it to face visitors. You'll be good to go and it's easier then trying to move the T.V. and rewire everything.
Eric they are just switches don't let them confuse you. Two wires off and on. Just bypass what you need and a simple toggle switch where you need it. They get too fancy some times.
Thread lock for the wheel hubs and if you don’t need the stairs; tape the magnet to the door to get them to retract and disconnect the power source for the time being.
I completely agree they really should design them more for people who would be in them longer than just weekends. More often than not, dinette sets are way too large and the living room area too small. The TVs are always in awkward positions unless they rotate. It's sad, no matter the manufacturers, they always slap them together with basic configurations they think work for all.
There has to be an over ride somewhere that you haven't found yet. I sacrificed my wall and put a 42 inch tv across from the tv. It worked and loved it. If you put the new tv over the window make sure you put covering in that window to protect the tv from the light and weather elements.
I’d highly recommend to look for “diesel parking heater” on eBay and buy a kit that suits the RV. For around $150 you can get reliable, dry heat from a super efficient system. I’ve used mine all winter with great results and you can even get a gasoline version (although less efficient) that you can tie straight into your fuel tank. No more propane and no more moisture in the RV (exhaust and intake for the heater are routed outside). A 10kw unit would probably be plenty enough. And you can program it to come on at certain times or temperature thresholds and even certain days of the week. People use them (smaller ones) in sprinter vans and they take up almost no space. I said good buy to my Mr buddy heater and I’m not looking back.
The furnace sound is the bearings on the fan motor, easy to replace the bearing or the entire motor if it does not have removable bearings. Not expensive...
Keep the couch ...get a storage bench for your feet ... can you repositioning TV (put it on a stand to watch from dinning room table ...or get or build that elevator cabin for the TV ...that way not putting yourself in debt ... hope everything works out ...safe travels .
Love this idea, but find a room at the store where you they sell them to test the fans. If Eric gets one, he'll probably be sitting next to or right under the projector and they shoot out hot air and can be noisy.
I pulled the fuse to keep the dumb thing up on mine. It's been years since doing it, but if I remember correctly, the fuse was in the motor area under the steps.
I am surprised that they ran the wired (Hall Effect) switch to the door, instead of putting it on the floor with the magnet on the door. That creates much more motion for the wiring. Your switch must be either normally open, or normally closed. If you have a multimeter, you may be able to determine which it is and either short the wires together, or break contact altogether to simulate the effect of normal closed door operation. Other alternatives include installing a button type switch on the frame (similar to a refrigerator light switch) to replace the existing hall effect switch. Best of luck, and safe travels to you!
Maybe get one of those cool RV mounts for the TV that swivel and can raise up or lower, etc. That way you keep your dining area and swing out the TV when you want it.
Buy your tv from video only when you get back to Washington. They negotiate and have a massive selection that even puts costco to shame. Keep up the great work and can't wait to see what adventures you find yourself in this Summer.
I've got an atwood 2 stage heater. You can hear it when it first comes on, not very loud but you can hear it. It steps down when it gets with in 3 degrees of the set temp. It's quiet enough that it wouldn't wake you up in dead silence.
i think a home works best when its modified for the one who lives in it. my 30 ft 92 e350 ford has been changed, removed the couch installed wood stove and composting toilet. the back bed will come out eventually too. you could just put in a nice used recliner swivel chair for now, and always change it again later when the budget is ready
Tape the magnet on! Just goto the hardware store and buy opoxy glue to glue it back on, Eric. Opoxy works well. Take the wheel covers off and paint the wheels white or black or brown. Watch tv lying down facing the tv. The dinnet also converts into a bed.
Rv heaters make that noise when the oil light motor bushing/bearing felts run out of oil. I oil my motor bushing felts annually. With full time use in Anchorage, Alaska. I use 5+5 drops of amsoil atf. Zoom turbine oil will also work. I Lay the motor horizontally when oiling. I put 5 drops in each side wait 10 or more minutes. Then I put the the bottom side up. Do the same. If you oil with the shaft vertical it will get oil on the brushes and cause arcing and brush failure. The bushings are wearing in yours the looser they get the vibration accelerates brush wear. Without oiling motors last me about 18 months. With oiling they last over 7 years and counting.
add a toggle switch to bypass the magnetic strip that way when you lose the magnet you can just flip a switch to pull them in for emergency use
Exactly. My husband is in a wheelchair and had to have toggles installed to make it easier to reach and control when he was alone, because the dogs went in the regular door while he used the large lift door. 5R in Sanford, FL did all his adaptions on both of our last 2 RVs.
WIth the other switches you could probably just bypass it. Or...Pull the steps in, then pull the fuse for the steps.
Really good idea.
AlliChuck Adventures spot on 👍
@@jerrydixon how did you wire it pass thru loop or ground to the frame
It's hurts to think that you put so much into the relationship and made a commitment on so many levels and sacrifices to make things work.
Here's hoping you recoup and regain quickly.
Make the best of your new digs, nothing lasts forever!
Be safe! 🙂
The wired side of the magnet belongs on the door frame and not on the door, then the wire is not very exposed.
Yep, installed bass ackwards!
How would anyone think the wire side should go on the door itself ! These magnetic switches are available from a car audio / alarm dealer, which includes Best Buy
Exactly. Weird.
@@MIdaffy502
Probably manufactured by immigrant labor. Language barrier prevented him from understanding the blueprint!
Design destined for failure!
The most important thing is to keep Jax happy. lol You are good at figuring out fixes for your situations. Its no different than owning a home - something is always going wrong. Keep at it, Eric. Its what makes coming here and watching so interesting and you're helping a lot of people at the same time.
I would leave the tv and get a projector and put up a pull-down screen by the dinette window so when eating you have the forward tv and when on the couch you will have the pull-down screen.
Yes! I have a projector in my living room, no TV - if you are really adventurous, you can buy an ultra short throw which only requires 2" of clearance from the wall. I have one of those (from LG), projects a 70" picture 4" from the wall. BTW, you can get pretty good short throw projectors that used to be in classrooms for cheap (less than $200), but they are pretty big compared to consumer units.... Also, you could do a flip down TV over the window as an option.
I made almost this same comment without even seeing yours. It’d work out well for him. Some of the new projectors have a really good picture .
And get a foot stole
I have complete confidence, that you will fix all of the things, cuz you are so good at investigating every detail. I enjoy seeing your videos on your everyday life. plus all of the suggestions that people give you, are so helpful and shows that people care about others.
The door is wired backwards. The wire part should be on the threshold,,, then the magnet on the door. Then no wire to flex. You just got caught in the 50/50 rule that things can be installed backwards.
Steve Harkins
Yes..seems to be situated backwards. It would be better if the wires stayed inside and just the magnet was on the door.
Also it would be a good idea to have a manual method as well.
Nope not backward but an added expense to the customer.
Steve, My thought too but I figured hey they must have done it that way for some reason, it was a reason I could not imagine though lol, good one of calling it out!
Mike or Jimmy, a short circuit eventually insures a service call huh.
Hey Eric, those magnetic switches either open or close the circuit, so you could easily put in a switch or two to either short the circuit before the magnet or open the circuit. This would provide the manual over ride you are looking for.
I would permanently disconnected that BS. Get portable all weather steps. The fact that you cannot manually close the steps is absurd.
i would take an angle grinder to the steps
You can manually close them...
@@TheSoloAsylum but how?
I was thinking the exact same thing,i hate those stupid steps anyhow
I like the swapping out the love seat for a recliner idea. I think a recliner that swivels would be good because then you can situate yourself in multiple positions.
This is what I really enjoy about your channel. You keep it real. Not everyday is going to be perfect & not everyone knows everything about everything! Hugs to you & Jax. Safe travels.
Agreed👍
That sucks! I'd take them off permanently and use a little foldable step ladder you can bring in and out. Hopefully, things will get better. You and Jax have the best attitudes for RV traveling! Thanks for sharing!
Looks to be installed bass ackwards. The part with the wires should be mounted to the door frame and the magnet mounted to the door. Keeps the wires safe.
The Chronicles of Maintenance Man I thought the same thing. Why make the wires have to move if you don’t have to....🤷🏼♂️
Cos America..... Ass backwards designs as usual. No surprises here
Your right on with that. My 32 ft Canadian triple e is done like you say. Always worries me when a “metallic” wire bends continuously....we all know what happens.
Hi Eric, I just installed the same theatre recliners that RVing with Tito did and they are terrific!!! The one thing you should keep in mind is that he installed his in what was formally his dinette. In our Coachmen Mirada, I took out their very uncomfortable sofa bed, which is just like yours. The issue I ran into is that I needed to extend the platform by 6 inches in order to accommodate the space requirements of the seats. I sit it by screwing down a piece of 66 in by 3.5 feet of half inch birch plywood. It worked perfectly.
They’re one of the best enhancements we made to our RV!!
Best regards!
You are a freaking genius! I can’t believe how much stuff you have figured out through all these videos I have seen. I would just become so exasperated and just rip the stairs right off of the damn thing!
You are the prime example of being a Mr. Fix It...!!! Occasional frustrations and snaff-foo’s just are part of the territory of RV living. Thankful that Eric shares the good and the bad and shows people how to think things thru and solve problems. There is no purr-fect RV. Customize it to “your” personal likes and go for it😉😁👍🇺🇸 Safe travels and keep an eye on spring weather forecasts😉
You're making me very happy to be in my no frills '97 Chevy Cargo. :)
Hi Eric, it's Dave in Raleigh again. In response to your stair question; I'm in an old Bounder (8 years now) and this thing has no slides or automatic leveling, the awnings are manual and as simple as it is there still seems to be little things all the time that require attention. When my steps stopped working I disabled them by unbolting the control arm and tied the steps in the up position with a couple of those Panduit straps that are used in HVAC, or wire ties. That was more than a year ago and I haven't gotten back to it yet. I don't really miss the steps and for what they are they're really overly complicated but the pin is in the cup holder next to my driver's seat. I can step up until I get around to it. The racket in your furnace is undoubtedly the squirrel cage blower, the only moving part in the whole thing. Use your wave and don't look back. I've never heard a quiet one either. You could try changing it out with a better quality part, but it might do the same thing. In RVs built on a bus platform they're usually in the basement. In class A motor homes the furnace is under the fridge or somewhere close to where you always seem to sit and the return is an open grated with the blower right behind it so the screen might as well not even be there because it still sounds (as yours does) like it's right in the room with you. But don't worry, at the rate you're going another year or two and you'll be in one of those big busses and then you won't have to hear it anymore. In the meantime, try not to stress! You'll figure all this stuff out.
Sorry, that happened to you. On our RV (2012 Thor ACE) the magnet is on the door and the wired part is stationary (Less movement). very odd it's reversed on yours. Best of luck getting a permanent fix. As an override, I've moved the stairs in and then unplugged the power harness going into the stair to keep them in. We had to do this one time when I got the RV stuck in the sand and the stairs kept hitting the ground.~Mike
For the furnace noise, Mine did that too, when I replaced it, I bought the same part #, but with a "Q" at the end...Stands for quiet...What a HUGE difference it makes!!!
Close the steps then pull the fuse. David and Tammy from Florida.
Now that's the right idea, simple and easy.
2% rule... you only have to be 2% smarter than what you are working on..LoL
Thanks for sharing this real bit of RV life. Almost two years in to our RV we think we have finally solved two of our nagging problems this week by replacing our stovetop and replacing a cracked section of the gray line which we have been repeatedly assured was fixed🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻
The door switch should have the wired part on the door threshold and the magnet on the door.
We stored the couch and replaced it with two small lazy boy recliners. When we camp we move one recliner out into the flor facing the TV and rotating the other recliner where it is.......works fantastic.
You could make or buy a mount for the dining area so the TV would flip up, while not in use.
I was thinking the same, but weight and size would be a factor.
Man, i've been watching your videos since day 1. It is amazing the transformations you've been through. I even had a van i converted myself and lived in for 2 years not long after you had your van. I'm back in an apartment now lol.
Bearings in the furnace motor, something you can replace yourself. Easy fix!
I was looking to see if anybody suggested the squeal was more than a noise problem. That should be the first thing you think of when you hear a motor squealing...is that a bearing?
many times a drop of oil on the bearings will solve the squeal.. they have a habit of drying out of lubrication
I changed a motor in mine. Kudos to Camping World Bowling Green KY for sending the right one. The plastic wheel came off easily but the metal wheel on the “fire” side was stuck bad. Plenty of PB Blaster and a sharp punch to the shaft. Wood blocks, 48 oz hammer. I held the punch with vise grips, well away from my hand.
I had a circuit board go out on my Dometic furnace when I had an RV, I called around and learned that the new board was about $100 and that NO, they would not ship it to me to install it myself, I had to take the furnace to an authorised RV repair shop and have them do it- 2 slip on wires and 2 screws. So I took the furnace in my car the hour drive each way to get that done, that's another issue to be aware of- proprietary parts and mfr's of anything related to gas furnace etc refusing to sell parts to you.
I was able to get an aftermarket board here, with adaptors to plug into several types.
My furnace doesnt make that noise in my current RV my last rv did but I used a dry graphite lubricant on the blower fan wheel and it eliminated the sound so every 3 months I just added a little more after the 3rd time took another year b4 noise started to faintly come back but just lubricated it again
Have you thought about a drop down screen and projector instead of a tv? In an rv it would save a lot of space and you could have it out when you wanted. New projectors don’t even need a super dark room.
Had the same trouble in Yellowstone with the step. I banged, i sprayed it nothing. So I just removed the pins that go to the motor, slide the step in, then I bungee corded it till I could get out of the freezing weather. Then when the step starts to work again just slide the pin back in and I used a cotter pin so it is easier to remove next time. Hope this makes somewhat since. Oh yes Eric the motors do go out mine went after 19 years. Just keep it lubed and clean it will last for a few more years. Have fun.
My coachmen U can sit in my wrap around dining table and pull out TV towards U. I can watch TV without turning my head. Mine is the 2016 Coachmen 21rs. Great video. Thank goodness i dont have the electric steps!!!!!
Love my WAV 8. I was very leery about running it overnight but with a window opened to about an inch, I ran it all night and had no issues. Be safe!
Eric, when u get ur steps fix the right way. Get u leveling blocks put underneath your bottom step so it can be sturdy going in and out
That's a great idea! Otherwise, all the weight takes its toll on the plastic gearing inside the motor. My first motor wore out in just 2 years. I'm going to try the leveling blocks next time.
CycleDoc675 that’s a design flaw ppl don’t talk about. There’s no support with those steps
I helped a fellow RV'er that had same issues with the steps the morning he was leaving. We had to disconnect the motor and use zip ties to hold steps up /closed. He said he was going to order new motor at next stop. Being older in age & having this happen is not a good thing. Totally agree that there should be a second system that would automatically kick in or a button you press to work it in emergencies. Thanks for sharing and you/Jax have Blessed Travels.
Wouldn't it make more sense to have the wired component on the coach and the unwired magnet on the door? Seems to be installed backwards to me.
So funny, talking about the TV placement I was wondering if you follow RVing with Tito because he just installed a lifting TV cabinet. 2 seconds later, you mention him! LOL!
Switch the magnets around. Superglue the broken magnet to the door and put the wired magnet on the floor and drop the wiring down so it isn't exposed.
Erick the answer to the seating problem is Swivel Base Recliners :-) Then you don't have to cover up window!
Threadlocker! For the wheel simulators, it's a liquid you put on the treads that keeps them from vibrating lose. You can buy it at walmart.
I'm glad you were easily able to fix the problem.
For-what-it's-worth: I looks to be a simple Reed Switch. The reed switch portion of the circuit is currently wired to the door. It does seem to be wired backwards (the magnet should actually be on the door itself). It is just a 2 wire connection. Walmart (Lowes also Home Depot) should have cheap wire, a small LED-lit (so you will always be aware that you converted it to a manual option) on-off switch, and some electrical tape. You might be able to bypass the unit and mount the on-off switch someplace close to the inside steps to open-close the steps.
Are you SURE you want to sacrifice the window for a TV? That window would be golden to me when sitting at the table.
He could make it where the TV flips down manually on a mount and still have the window.
Eric, you can, if needed, disconnect the arm that moves the steps. If you get stuck, you can disconnect the arm and free up the steps, then you can use a bungie cord to hold the steps up until you have a fix. You can use a step stool in the meantime. (This is only is case you have a failure that prevents you from driving...you can, in fact disconnect and drive)
Hi Eric, thanks for sharing your day, as we all know a house or RV there always something to fix, that’s life, be safe traveling love ya
Eric, there is a user serviceable way to disconnect the system. You have to do this when you are replacing the motor, or properly lubricating the system. On the rod (like an axle) parallel to the side of the rig, (the motor turns the cam which pushes the linkage which then turns the axle) there should be a cotter pin or a hitch pin clip, that when you remove it, the motor and everything is still intact, but mechanically you have removed the connection point between the linkage and the shaft. the pin goes THROUGH the outer sheath that surrounds the inner axle. (This is a lube point) Also, if you cannot find that or there isn't one, you can remove the bolt holding the linkage between the cam and the axle or shaft. There is only one bolt there, and it is easily accessible. Once you remove one of those, the steps will just hang so you would need to bungee them in the retracted position to drive.
Check out "Hickory Springs" manual operated steps. $89.00, locks into place, easy to pull out and slide back.
That's great to get in. But how would you deploy them to get out. (not all of us are spry enough to JUMP out without them. Oh and once you are in how do you close them. LOL maybe a milk crate on a rope. Throw it out. pull it in the coach when leaving.
@@paulrodrigues9603 In my mind, I have already designed a lever operated, manual system.
Small recessed lever handle next to exit would deploy or retract steps on demand, quickly.
And yes, I have lots of time on my hands.
Hey great video... Don't sell yourself short. You figured it out.
Regarding your sofa, my suggestion is the single recliner, you can get some really good ones and you wouldn't be limited to the RV only ones. But I would suggest a swivel base and a table on the stove side. I have a swivel base on the recliner I have in my house and when I go full time I'm really going to miss that. I may have to buy a home base just so I can keep my chair... I digress... If you want to keep the dinette you can move it out away from the wall and insert a cabinet with a televator to raise it and lower it in front of the window. But that's a lot of work. Simplest thing is to get the one recliner and it can be a household version. But remember the swivel.
All the best,
Pat
Take one of your seat back cushions and place it where you put your small pillow. You could sit against it, facing the tv.
Sit down, pet Jax, take a deep breath and considering these frustrating things that they can be fixed. Continue seeing the beauty you have experienced and be thankful. I am as a subscriber. :)
Sir Eric u have been doing yr videos in a great way
I love the way u make yr vids
The way u speak in the vids
Have given much knowledge about RV
And i never miss any of yr vids
Big fan of you
This is my first comment on yr vids haha
Love from Germany
Eric is an inspiration, and he has taught his followers many things. His videos are uplifting because he always believes there's a solution to every problem, and on that he's accurate.
Eric, on the topic of the furnace vs the catalytic heater. Most RV'ers are reluctant to use the heater because of power draw from the house batteries, because they are using AGM, Lead Acid and have at most half the rated power, not to mention most coaches come equipped with puny battery banks. Since you have 300 amp hours and can use 90% as well as solar to replenish why not use the on-board system. Like the generator these systems last much longer if used regularly. As Phil pointed out the furnace will keep your plumbing warm.
Hey Eric I sell tires and truck rims for a living you should switch those steel wheels out to aluminum Alcoa’s they are a little lighter and no simulators and they would look awesome on there and you might get a little better fuel mileage that’s what most of the big rigs do they switch from Steel to all aluminum rims to get more miles per gallon
I have a similar reclining loveseat in our park model, actually got it cheap from a camping buddy whose rig was still under warranty because of a crease in the material! Nothing at all wrong with the function and it's extremely comfortable. They kept the cupholders for their new replacement. Our TV is located almost directly across and it works well. Might try some 3 in 1 oil on the blower fan, drill a tiny hole in the housing enough for the tip and get it in there. It will quiet it down some but it will eventually need replaced.
You should be able to jumper the switch.
Don’t forget if it freezes the only way to heat your plumbing is using the furnace
I would recommend using blue threadlock for your wheel simulators. It helps keep the nut from coming loose but the nut can be removed if need be. Do not use the red threadlock as it is for permanent applications. I use the blue stuff for nuts and fasteners on my Harley Davidson, (lots of vibration), and it works great. Give it a try, it's not that expensive and can be found at Walmart and auto parts stores.
If anybody wants to find Eric look for the trail of wheel similators. 😄
pokermel I lost a couple through California on the 99, after just replacing them poor design
For the tv situation, put your reclining camping chair in place of the sofa. They work great and fold up easily. No moving the tv. The camping chair can be moved and adjusted.
God bless, Your solar friend could probably fix it better than original and put you manual override,switches in.
Owning a motorhome is an adventure in itself. There's always something going wrong. But it's still fun you got your home with you at the beach in the mountains where ever you want it.
Why don't you just turn your future "workstation" into a T.V. room? ....get a really nice recliner, set up a T.V. , add some T.V. trays or such. So then you don't have to compromise the rest of the RV! ....just a thought! :)
Had the same issue just this week. We disconnected the pin from the actuator motor. Then, we were able to retract the steps and use a zip tie to keep the steps in so we could drive. We are now using a $8 plastic step from DG. The truth is we may never decide to use the steps agin unless we can override or dis-engage the system.
Why would the installer fit the reed switch and magnet the wrong way around? The magnet should be on the door and switch mounted to the frame. That was doomed to fail at some point.
Union labor in Indiana......Need I say more?
Hey man that’s cool the furnace working directly off of solar . That’s awesome surviving and staying warm . If you were able to plug in somewhere that would be obviously ideal for a few days . You got it figured out
Has any1 seen the marker board I miss the comments on it
Yes, Eric wrote and told me it was aimed at me.
Eric, have you thought about putting the tv on a tv mount that will articulate outwards and angled so that it faces the couch? You can also build a nice shallow shelf/cabinet to match the existing cabinets above the passenger side front window for your gaming systems. RV with Tito did a great video on building a new command centre above his door that you can take inspiration from.
As for the furnace, it's not supposed to sound like that. I'm off grid in Canada in my 1984 Class A and all it sounds like is blowing air and has always sounded like that for the past four years of constant use in the cold months.
There is an advantage to manual awnings and no slides. I'm looking at a used Foretravel work no slides.
When I was looking for a Bluebird Class A to buy 15 years ago, one of the mandatory things was no slides. My friends who had slides had nothing but problems. 15 years later, the friends with even newer coaches are having slide problems. Not once in 15 years has my coach had a slide problem. Not one...because I don't have any...and I love it that way. Also, some of the fancy doohickies of my Bluebird have been replaced with tried and trued equipment. Example: My factory air powered fancy toilet with 7 way synchronizing air valve with dedicated (yes, dedicated to the toilet operation) air compressor? GONE! Standard china bowl foot pedal operated toilet? Yes! I did go big on the electrical system upgrade with heavy duty dual inverters. If one inverter goes bad, I unplug it from the rack and send it in for repairs while the other inverter continues to supply power. Dual house water pumps. If one goes bad, the other takes over with a flip of the switch. Simple systems. Redundancy.
@@sunnybluesky440 You and I think alike. I like having a backup so when the primary fails, it can take over while the primary is getting repaired. Preparedness, simplicity, redundancy, are positive ideals.
We had a 1999 Fleetwood Bounder that had steps that would work when they wanted. Would come out as we were driving down the road and not come out when we parked. Hubby replaced all kinds of parts, would work for awhile. We learned to look before taking that first step out!! Good luck!!
Wal-Mart sells chrome spray paint.
My furnace made that same noise. I disassembled the electric motor and greased the shaft and it fixed it. It was pretty easy and super cheap.
Great video, and great "can do" attitude. Sorry you are going through this. Ahhhhh...systems :)
It is indeed, but if anyone can figure it out and makeshift until he can fix it properly, Eric's ingenious.
It is frustrating to buy something and hope everything works, however, as with all things they just won't in time...usually when you can least afford it.
Mount the TV at the end of the cabinet over the dinette. Mount the TV on a swing away so you can store it against the wall over the passengers' window but can be swung out to be watchable even from the dinette. And, as many others here are saying, your door switch is mounted backward. Probably a replacement by someone who wasn't very handy. The wires should be in the RV and not getting bent up by the door. You can install a jumper wire and toggle (whatever) switch to the existing wires for the magnetic switch and easily bypass it when necessary.
I should have warned you not to buy a Coachmen because I owned one and it was not built well. We were lucky to get rid of it. That's why they are cheap!
@Kat LeRoi Yeah, but CVK won't have any issues he can't handle. He's incredibly handy and smart AF! ;-) He's the kind of guy I'd love to carry around in my back pocket!
If you remove the slide switch panel. Theirs over ride buttons. Behind the switches. And you can also find the control box and unhook one slide switch the wiring on the control box to operate the slide. If all else fails. You pull the motors set screws pull the motors. And reinstall them after you manually push the slide in. Ya being a RV technician is real fun. Always challenging.
I had a similar situation with my steps, but the motor burned out from being overloaded with electricity. The steps were in the down position and we couldn't move. It was out very first camping experience on the very first day and didn't know what to do.
Campground management gave us a mobile service tech, he couldn't come until Monday, two days. We opted to have them tied in the up position, drove to Camping World, another mistake, had the steps and motor replaced. The generator went out, plus the electrical system, replacing the fuse box. Camping World took 3 tries each at 3 week costing us $2000 to get it fix. Plus my foot stool was missing (taken) as well. Never again service at Camping World.
Eric,
A) Move the Magnets away from the Hinge Side. That way you can get the wiring out of the way and keep it from breaking from repeated flexing. It's not hard if you think about it.
B) Bypassing the Motor should be easy enough. Put in a switch that would emulate having the Magnets touching. About five minutes worth of work when you think about it.
Replace the Love Seat with a single Chair. Mount the Chair on a Pivot so you can turn it to face visitors. You'll be good to go and it's easier then trying to move the T.V. and rewire everything.
Jax is more important to watch than the boobtube...
Cheaper to move the tv to above the table...
Eric they are just switches don't let them confuse you. Two wires off and on. Just bypass what you need and a simple toggle switch where you need it. They get too fancy some times.
Eric just a thought. What about having a TV that rotates from the ceiling.
Thread lock for the wheel hubs and if you don’t need the stairs; tape the magnet to the door to get them to retract and disconnect the power source for the time being.
It behooves me why RV manufacturers do those "neck-wrecker" tv locations. Maybe look for a small "L" shape that can fit in that space?
I completely agree they really should design them more for people who would be in them longer than just weekends.
More often than not, dinette sets are way too large and the living room area too small.
The TVs are always in awkward positions unless they rotate.
It's sad, no matter the manufacturers, they always slap them together with basic configurations they think work for all.
There has to be an over ride somewhere that you haven't found yet. I sacrificed my wall and put a 42 inch tv across from the tv. It worked and loved it. If you put the new tv over the window make sure you put covering in that window to protect the tv from the light and weather elements.
I miss the white eraser board.
I’d highly recommend to look for “diesel parking heater” on eBay and buy a kit that suits the RV. For around $150 you can get reliable, dry heat from a super efficient system. I’ve used mine all winter with great results and you can even get a gasoline version (although less efficient) that you can tie straight into your fuel tank. No more propane and no more moisture in the RV (exhaust and intake for the heater are routed outside). A 10kw unit would probably be plenty enough. And you can program it to come on at certain times or temperature thresholds and even certain days of the week. People use them (smaller ones) in sprinter vans and they take up almost no space. I said good buy to my Mr buddy heater and I’m not looking back.
You have great McGyver's skills: you can fix it. Hahaha
The furnace sound is the bearings on the fan motor, easy to replace the bearing or the entire motor if it does not have removable bearings. Not expensive...
Hey Eric, these issues are called "The RV experience" lol
Keep the couch ...get a storage bench for your feet ... can you repositioning TV (put it on a stand to watch from dinning room table ...or get or build that elevator cabin for the TV ...that way not putting yourself in debt ... hope everything works out ...safe travels
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Maybe a projector with roll up screen instead of a TV covering the window
Love this idea, but find a room at the store where you they sell them to test the fans. If Eric gets one, he'll probably be sitting next to or right under the projector and they shoot out hot air and can be noisy.
I pulled the fuse to keep the dumb thing up on mine. It's been years since doing it, but if I remember correctly, the fuse was in the motor area under the steps.
Eric go find an auto electrician. They always come up with an answer. Why dont you move the tv and put it on the wall opposite your seats.
I am surprised that they ran the wired (Hall Effect) switch to the door, instead of putting it on the floor with the magnet on the door. That creates much more motion for the wiring.
Your switch must be either normally open, or normally closed. If you have a multimeter, you may be able to determine which it is and either short the wires together, or break contact altogether to simulate the effect of normal closed door operation.
Other alternatives include installing a button type switch on the frame (similar to a refrigerator light switch) to replace the existing hall effect switch.
Best of luck, and safe travels to you!
Maybe get one of those cool RV mounts for the TV that swivel and can raise up or lower, etc. That way you keep your dining area and swing out the TV when you want it.
UzeHerName I was also thinking doing that same set but on the couch.
Buy your tv from video only when you get back to Washington. They negotiate and have a massive selection that even puts costco to shame. Keep up the great work and can't wait to see what adventures you find yourself in this Summer.
We have those shit 12/6 simulators on the ford ambulances. They would come off continuously. Finally just painted the wheels silver and gave up.
I've got an atwood 2 stage heater. You can hear it when it first comes on, not very loud but you can hear it. It steps down when it gets with in 3 degrees of the set temp. It's quiet enough that it wouldn't wake you up in dead silence.
At least your laughing.
i think a home works best when its modified for the one who lives in it. my 30 ft 92 e350 ford has been changed, removed the couch installed wood stove and composting toilet. the back bed will come out eventually too. you could just put in a nice used recliner swivel chair for now, and always change it again later when the budget is ready
Eric there's swivel recliner videos for that very same spot on RUclips
Tape the magnet on! Just goto the hardware store and buy opoxy glue to glue it back on, Eric. Opoxy works well. Take the wheel covers off and paint the wheels white or black or brown. Watch tv lying down facing the tv. The dinnet also converts into a bed.
If duct tape don't fix it, you're not using enough duct tape! ;O)
Rv heaters make that noise when the oil light motor bushing/bearing felts run out of oil. I oil my motor bushing felts annually. With full time use in Anchorage, Alaska. I use 5+5 drops of amsoil atf. Zoom turbine oil will also work. I Lay the motor horizontally when oiling. I put 5 drops in each side wait 10 or more minutes. Then I put the the bottom side up. Do the same. If you oil with the shaft vertical it will get oil on the brushes and cause arcing and brush failure. The bushings are wearing in yours the looser they get the vibration accelerates brush wear. Without oiling motors last me about 18 months. With oiling they last over 7 years and counting.