I forgot to comment ,I'm at the same stage with both my Z s.I still have a little more welding but I'm in the prep for painting the chassis shell too,which you know is so damn exciting as it,can become a car again ! so it's good we are in the same stage.My philosophy is I'll leave original paint and primer ( not strip it) sand it enough for tooth .Hey it's still on tight for 40+ years ,of coarse not all areas are not that sound,so it will be bare metal then original paint.then I'll prime ,do body work ,then paint. I'm also using raptor bed liner instead of under coat and lizard skin heat barrier to keep heat out.( Florida cars)I'm also bed liner spraying the wiper motor mount area ( the place where you dug all the old leaves ,acorns and dirt and twigs ) that whole tray panel so it's a sealed water proof tray to be sure moisture isn't a future problem. for people watching you strip.Its the vapors that attack the paint if you covered the liquid with a plastic drop cloth it would be more effective. Warning those same vapors will attach another cars paint if it's side by side the vapors can travel and effect another cars paint so be careful.Also the sanding dust and blowing it off even when dry still has the chemical in the paint so don't breath the dust ,cover your eyes, and cover any thing precious the dust will fall on so it doesn't attack chemically any thing else. Another good video and keep at it my friend.
Thanks! For sure, this is a mean chemical. I had to wear two pairs of gloves because that stuff would burn easily through one. And most definitely wear eye protection. I have a more work to do before primer, but welding should be about done. Thanks for watching. Roll cage being welded in this weekend.
Built Not Bought TV I'm still on fence with cage ,even a roll bar I'm thinking I'll pass on. just because I'm not racing not street racing ,I'm just performance driving a vintage car. So I'll save the weight and bolt in a very good a/c so I can thoroughly enjoy driving in the heat of it all. You always must keep a build in focus. If I'm not over powering the chassis and not "racing " I can save the cost to build .Don't need real big wheels and tires ,don't need massive roll bar and suspension components. again restomod but no racing ,I can move money into other areas or keep it in my pocket. I'm still having fun building two restomod but saving money by keeping the cars intended use in laser focus thru out the build.Im using 15X 7 0 offset wheels and 205 60 15 again not racing.Just having as much fun driving ,when I do get on it. Not you ,but I see more builds where ,the Z is so over built ,they turn the car into a very occasional car because it drives on heim joints and overly wide wheels and tires ,race solid springs a very full cage the driving is cramped..They end up driving a beat up Honda because the z they put all this money into is no fun driving day in day out.I love driving a Z as a daily driver .And use my motor cycle when I want something else to drive Great video ! keep building your ride it's going to be a smile monster.
Yes, it's a LOT harder with original paint! My s30 was originally #112, but someone painted the engine bay matt black over the top. The Matt just falls off with the paint stripper, but you gotta really work the factory paint to shift it. The s30 engine bay also has a lot more stuff in it too - cable clamps, bolts, and funny curves in the pressing. It's taking a while...
Not the engine bay but I have a question in regards to the interior of the car I took the states carpet everything out of the interior of my car and I wanted to go ahead and scuff it up and spray it with a rust encapsulator later it has original paint but do you think it matters if I just leave that on their scuff it up and then paint over it with Rust encapsulator later?
Can confirm, currently trying to get through the original red on my 240z right now... even aircraft remover didn't do it. :'( Luckily HF had a sale on polycarbide wheels.
Built Not Bought TV Knowing me, I was a dumbass and did something wrong. Still works awesome in crevices though. Subbed though, definite inspiration whenever I feel lazy.
Once I neutralized the stripped with water I used an air gun to get water out from any cracks. Then used mineral spirits on that. It sat for a good couple weeks and did not rust before I painted it. Also depends on your climate and humidity but I had no problems
You 'could' wash the blue paint and then paint over it. But you'll run the risk that the blue paint is bad and peel off with the heat of the engine bay. Just may cause some problems.
This makes me more confident to start my s1 rx7 resto this summer. Cheers
I forgot to comment ,I'm at the same stage with both my Z s.I still have a little more welding but I'm in the prep for painting the chassis shell too,which you know is so damn exciting as it,can become a car again !
so it's good we are in the same stage.My philosophy is I'll leave original paint and primer ( not strip it) sand it enough for tooth .Hey it's still on tight for 40+ years ,of coarse not all areas are not that sound,so it will be bare metal then original paint.then I'll prime ,do body work ,then paint. I'm also using raptor bed liner instead of under coat and lizard skin heat barrier to keep heat out.( Florida cars)I'm also bed liner spraying the wiper motor mount area ( the place where you dug all the old leaves ,acorns and dirt and twigs ) that whole tray panel so it's a sealed water proof tray to be sure moisture isn't a future problem.
for people watching you strip.Its the vapors that attack the paint if you covered the liquid with a plastic drop cloth it would be more effective.
Warning those same vapors will attach another cars paint if it's side by side the vapors can travel and effect another cars paint so be careful.Also the sanding dust and blowing it off even when dry still has the chemical in the paint so don't breath the dust ,cover your eyes, and cover any thing precious the dust will fall on so it doesn't attack chemically any thing else.
Another good video and keep at it my friend.
Thanks! For sure, this is a mean chemical. I had to wear two pairs of gloves because that stuff would burn easily through one. And most definitely wear eye protection. I have a more work to do before primer, but welding should be about done. Thanks for watching. Roll cage being welded in this weekend.
Built Not Bought TV I'm still on fence with cage ,even a roll bar I'm thinking I'll pass on. just because I'm not racing not street racing ,I'm just performance driving a vintage car. So I'll save the weight and bolt in a very good a/c so I can thoroughly enjoy driving in the heat of it all. You always must keep a build in focus. If I'm not over powering the chassis and not "racing " I can save the cost to build .Don't need real big wheels and tires ,don't need massive roll bar and suspension components. again restomod but no racing ,I can move money into other areas or keep it in my pocket. I'm still having fun building two restomod but saving money by keeping the cars intended use in laser focus thru out the build.Im using 15X 7 0 offset wheels and 205 60 15 again not racing.Just having as much fun driving ,when I do get on it.
Not you ,but I see more builds where ,the Z is so over built ,they turn the car into a very occasional car because it drives on heim joints and overly wide wheels and tires ,race solid springs a very full cage the driving is cramped..They end up driving a beat up Honda because the z they put all this money into is no fun driving day in day out.I love driving a Z as a daily driver .And use my motor cycle when I want something else to drive
Great video ! keep building your ride it's going to be a smile monster.
Glad to see you back at it
Thanks for the content. Will be starting mine tomorrow on my 240sx. Video helped alot
Just came across your channel man, great stuff, will be going back through your z vids.
I really enjoy your videos. Your tracks are 🔥🔥 as well.
Yo thanks! 😁
Yes, it's a LOT harder with original paint! My s30 was originally #112, but someone painted the engine bay matt black over the top. The Matt just falls off with the paint stripper, but you gotta really work the factory paint to shift it. The s30 engine bay also has a lot more stuff in it too - cable clamps, bolts, and funny curves in the pressing. It's taking a while...
Glad mine wasn't too hard. Good luck!
Strangely satisfiyng to watch.
I don’t disagree
*It’s The Tight Spots That Just Gets Annoying, Just Wanting To Get Straight To Painting!. Patience Is Key*
nice work, following this
Thanks !
Not the engine bay but I have a question in regards to the interior of the car I took the states carpet everything out of the interior of my car and I wanted to go ahead and scuff it up and spray it with a rust encapsulator later it has original paint but do you think it matters if I just leave that on their scuff it up and then paint over it with Rust encapsulator later?
Can confirm, currently trying to get through the original red on my 240z right now... even aircraft remover didn't do it. :'(
Luckily HF had a sale on polycarbide wheels.
Hm, yea the blue came off easy but it also took off the original paint below it. So I guess I got lucky. ha
Built Not Bought TV Knowing me, I was a dumbass and did something wrong. Still works awesome in crevices though.
Subbed though, definite inspiration whenever I feel lazy.
Hey quick question. How did you prevent flash rust from accumulating on the bare metal in the bay?
Once I neutralized the stripped with water I used an air gun to get water out from any cracks. Then used mineral spirits on that. It sat for a good couple weeks and did not rust before I painted it. Also depends on your climate and humidity but I had no problems
Built Not Bought TV sounds like a plan. I live in Phoenix so it's pretty dry here.
I have a question, can't you wash the rigged paint? Or no? Lol Jw cuz I don't know.
You 'could' wash the blue paint and then paint over it. But you'll run the risk that the blue paint is bad and peel off with the heat of the engine bay. Just may cause some problems.