Front crank case seal www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3802820/ Front crankshaft seal installation tool www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3824498/ Front Crank Case Seal Kit www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/stock-replacement/dodge-89-07-front-crank-seal.htm
@@thoroughbreddiesel thank you very much ! I have a question about cover gasket. Could you use a 12v gasket cover on 24 v cover instead to put sealant?
Thank you for not editing out the challenges, like the harmonic balancer removal, too many video's edit difficulties, therefore editing the process of solving those difficulties. It takes great effort to for an experienced mechanic to put themselves in the mindset of the inexperienced and not skip over some minor but important details. Great job, thanks again, Chris
Just an FYI. Dodge sells this cover that has the seal already installed. Save you the headache of installing a new seal in the cover, and cleaning the cover you’ve taken off. It cost me $75.00 for the cover. (2014 Ram 2500 SLT 6.7L). Be careful with the fan motor, and the clip, it breaks easily and the motor isn’t cheap. Be careful not to dent the radiator. Stay calm, and good luck.
I've seen other ways to do this job, but THIS guy goes through every process! I watched the video 3 times before I started and had to revisit some parts as I was doing the job. I'm glad that I ordered the crank repair sleeve because my crank snout was really worn (at only 228,000 miles!), causing a monster oil leak. The Ford permatex and the LocTite 545 worked beautifully. Installed a KDP kit and a water pump while I had it apart. Thanks for such an informative video, sir!
Do the new front crank seals that have a red coating on the outside still require the LocTite 545? A lot of conflicting info out there. Some say the red coating is a sealant and adding the LocTite to this will make it leak. Thanks @@thoroughbreddiesel
You guys have the best videos I watch them all the time and it helps me work on my 06 2500 & 3500 everything is always explained meticulously and well and everything is done to a T love them. Please don’t stop making them.
I'm planning on getting everything I need to install both gaskets on my 94 12 timing cover.... Always majorly saving my life motivational to me.... Salute , , blessings to everyone grind and motivations......
Wade, thank you so much for all the videos you and your team produce for us dyiers. Thoroughbred diesels help all us owners keep our vehicles on the road. Thank you sir
Great video.Thank you.I found it much easier to use your excellent fitting tool with a hydraulic PRESS ,than a hammer.Easy to get it to go in 'square'.The comment about the clearance between the cover and the gears is important.Mine had just clipped the inside of the cover in 2 places. Use a Gasket !!
Great job, you didn't mention any speculation as to reason for seal failure, while no close-up crank didn't look bad at all. Wondering if crank ventilation malfunction is causing pressure in crankcase wearing out seal prematurely. My 2005 3500 5.9 seems to be leaking , amount is considerably different with RPM..
as all was a great video a couple of guys tryed telling me you had to remove the camshaft iv went to Dana Tec school in Ohio i guess they thought a old timer was to stupid to do this CRANK SHAFT seal just as i expected it to be stright forward thank you THOROUGHBRED DIESEL
Major life motivational.... 8m bout to order timing cover kit for 94 Cummins dually.... Salute , Blessings to everyone grind and motivations.... Shoot do y'all need a other truck for a " how to do video " lmao ...
Yes the 12 valve guys are lucky and they get a gasket. I know the rtv on the gasket works for people, but I never have done it. But if it works for you keep on keepin' on!
I’ve done mine, your video helped. I didn’t have any of the fancy install tools but was still able to get it installed properly. Used a small piece of wood to install the sleeve. Biggest trouble I had was harmonic balancer bolts were really tight and wanted to strip. Put heat to then carefully and they came out good. Ended up putting new bolts back in.
The trick to loosening the front crank bolts is to remove the transmission inspection plate underneath. Use a prybar to hold the flywheel still and then you can have at it
i always install from the back and even with the tool its never right im always going back to fix it from the front. if your motor needs a wear sleeve it probably needs a whole lot more than a wear sleeve
I was searching for a rear main seal video but could not find. Is the rear pretty much the same process particularly with the loctite 545? Thanks great video!
The crankcase cover appears to be just pressed steel. If some ape has cranked down on the bolts it may have become distorted from the ideal flat plane. I didn't see mention of checking the cover but the one he shows installing seems to show distortion near the crankshaft area. When installing valve covers, pans or other such parts I like to determine their plane by sliding them along a very flat abrasive surface and see what doesn't show contact. If it's not very true I try to correct it by various means. Thoroughbred Diesel said applying permatex only to the engine side was wrong but didn't clarify if it's to be on both sides or just the cover side. I just got a 5.9 that just had the lifter cover gasket repaired but appears to have other oil leaks and a large fuel leak. It's kinda torn down now getting new radiator and inter-cooler cleaning. Looks like I'm into gear cover and front seal too @ 250k. A sticker says altered fuel system and injection pump has been replaced once and fuel tank module twice but I still can't see what lift pump it has now. Any ideas? 01 3500 dually HO 6spd X cab full bed. I did get a bit of tightening on the back of head banjo fuel return but not sure if this was the real leak.
Well today I found out changing oil my seal is leaking, at 62 years old this will take a few days, I'll order your installers. I'm a diesel mechanic for 42 years, I'd heat wear sleeve on Macks in oil to 250 degrees and install fast with welding gloves. Yea I'm old
do you wait for the rtv sealant to harden or put it on wet? thanks for the great vid. With my luck, I'll strip or break one of those 10mm bolts... What happens then-- put the truck down like a lame mule?
always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV
I'd have to say your videos are my new go to videos from now on when I'm working on my Commins 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4 so needless to say I subscribed to your channel, good good EDUCATIONAL understandable directions and all around good to CONTENT, Thank you.
@@thoroughbreddiesel do you have a video on the rear main seal mine is leaking kinda bad ??? I know it a big job but if I had some direction that would help a lot any feedback would be much appreciated, Thanks.
Is it normal for the wear sleeve to crunch onto the edge of the Key like that? If you warmed (220 degrees) the wear sleeve up it would slip on there...just slide it over until it touches the key and let it cool...boom you’re done. No tools required.
I am about to take this job on since I am replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner on my 2001 4x4 with 265k miles on it. I got the Ford 7.3 gasket maker like you recommended. It recommends a couple of other Ford products for cleaning and prepping the surfaces for this task. One of these recommended products is from $160-$250 for surface cleaning wipes. I'm obviously not going that route and wanted to ask what you would recommend as a cleaning solvent for this in addition to using scotch brite. Thanks for making these helpful videos for us do it ourselfers.
Awesome video, was able to get it done on my 06’ 5.9 with 339,000 miles…was stressful, but this video helped every step of the way! Out of curiosity how much would it cost to do this job at Thoroughbred Diesel?
The 4 or 5 bolts @ 7m30s I had those bolts all Loosen up and sheer all 4 or 5. I had a heck of a time. Also took me a while of just staring at the carnage to even understand what happened
To avoid the necessity of installing a wear sleeve I installed my new seal into the cover at a different depth…a depth where it would ride on a new virgin spot on the crank as opposed to riding on the exact same worn spot as the old seal by taking depth measurements from cover to seal to insure that it went in square. So I didn’t use the depth tool instead I used a depth measurement tool to get equal measurements taken at 120 degree intervals locations. If I recall correctly my three measurements were .115 depth from cover surface to seal so wear sleeve was not needed because the new seal would ride on the crank at a new depth location. After approximately 5k miles it doesn’t leak at all. I removed the cover to do the kdp tab instal at approximately 320k miles on my ‘97 12valve.
Thanks for the great video. Question: is this the same for the third gen? My harmonic balance has a tdc tic mark on it. Should I bring the motor to tdc before removal?
Not necessary to bring to TDC, but the crank for the common rails is a little different in that it has an alignment dowl on it. That dowel will need to be removed if you are using the wear sleeve installation tool.
The new 6.7 cranks have a dowel already in them if I'm correct how will the wear sleeve tool work with that I didn't see any ports for that to poke through
Red scotch brite pad and pb blaster will usually get that damper worked loose be a good time to do water pump and belt tensioner on it tach drive sensor supposed to go on the studs 24 valve should be on side of block
It is not wise to lay the fan clutch down. It should always be sat down in a vertical position. The part suppliers have even learned to set them on the shelf upright bc the fluid will travel to one side of the clutch causing premature failure
awesome video. I got a 2nd gen 12v that I gotta replace the front main on... do you think a wear sleeve is recommended if the truck only has 160k miles?
Its really going to depend on what you find when you get in there. If you can feel a groove on the crank with your fingernail, I would suggest the wear sleeve.
I have this can below my crankshaft filter, there's a tube from filter to this can. I have oil all over the front. I can't see where it's leaking around the crankshaft cover. I'm going crazy with all this oil.
How do you know if your crank is worn enough to require the wear sleeve? Or can you install it on any? I have 400k miles, but no evidence that it is over worn. Need to do KDP, don’t want to get it all open and then learn the hard way that I needed it or didn’t need it. If it’s not sufficiently worn, can the wear sleeve still be installed? Great video, I like that it shows the work and some of the challenges.
On that where sleeve they got those coatings that helps prevent where diamond like coding is one of them and there’s other companies out there that do coatings also I bet you would make that sleeve last indefinitely and you won’t have to ever change it again anyway just an idea this is six in a row jim saying have a good day from Kennerdell PA
Great video! I'm doing a full rebuild on a 5.9 right now and have referred to a few of your videos now. I have already put my harmonic balancer back on and missed putting the dust seal on. Did you put one on in here? Am I ok without it or should I pull it apart?
Great video Wade. Answered many questions I have except one. Can you do a video on removal of work wear sleeve? I have a 96 that has one needing replacement. Thanks
Have you done or could you do a bearing change on the fan hub ? On a 5.9 ... There has to be a way to change out the bearing and not buy the whole assembly
Outstanding video guys. Just got myself a 98 3500 12v and it is leaking oil from the front seal and vacuum pump, making a mess of everything. Will definitely be buying the wear sleeve/ seal kit and both installation tools. Thanks for the info!
Hey Wade, on my 01 24v Cummins I was curious on if there is an oil gasket or something sitting to the side of the A/C compressor? Looks like I’m leaking a lot of oil but can’t pin point exactly where, but I know the crank seal is leaking and I’m not sure if my CCVF has ever been changed either 🤷
It could be blowing back from the crank seal. I would replace it and then see what you are left with. On the AC comp side, there is only oil filter housing gasket but I haven’t seen those leak.
Great video! Very thorough! What did you use to clean the cover and mounting surface? Mine has been taking an oil shower for a while and it is a huge mess. I have the radiator out as it sprung a leak.
The mounting surface we cleaned with a roll loc gasket cleaner. I have soaked the front covers in a Dawn degreaser solution that softens up the grime, then can be cleaned off the next day.
To remove you just hit it in three places with a chisel and that makes relief so that it can be removed. I cant answer that on wear, Ive run one for 50,000 miles and not seen any noticeable wear to be concerned about.
2 questions. I noticed you did not install a KDP keeper. Was there on already in place? Also, you did not replace the water pump while you were in there. Why not? My 2000 non-53 block Cummins has only 205k miles. I've owned it 20 years, bought at 53k miles and it has not been worked very hard. Is the crankshaft wear spacer necessary in my case? I do plan on keeping it as my last truck.
KDP kit is probably something that should have been done at this time however its isn't as big of a problem on the 24 valve trucks so we didn’t attack it. Water pump would have also been a nice upgrade, but was recently done on that truck. I do suggest doing the wear sleeve with the mileage on your truck just for piece of mind.
Any tips on removing the wear sleeve? What would be expected for a shop bill , both with previous sleeve and 1st sleeve. Based on my trucks back storie this was done as preventive maintenance. And is now starting to fail@ ~400k mi
While this video is Super Informative, it adds one step that causes great confusion on my end. The Locktite 545 step... I have always heard & have always read in part instructions, that it is imperative this seal go in "clean & dry" without the aid of lubricants or rtv's getting it where it needs to go. In other words, the Teflon seal needs unobstructed/clean contact with the crank snout. If that's the case, why are we using the 545?? It seems to fly in the face of all the warning literature that usually come in the box with the Part.
Thank you very much for this video! I am wondering how to remove an old repair sleeve? Will it be easily pulled, or is there another tool which will be needed? I am getting ready to tackle this, and will be picking up all the correct tools, and supplies from you guys to do so.
More than likely if you didn’t put a repair sleeve on the engine, it probably won't have one. The Cummins procedure for removing an old sleeve is to lightly chisel the old sleeve off, being careful not to damage the crank.
Weld 4 nuts onto the sleeve and make a metal plate with 4 holes a d put a wooden block In between then insert bolts a d evenly crank down on the bolts until it pulls the old sleeve off but wear sleeves are not installed from the factory so u won't alwasy have one
@@tonynewsomjr.4043 Wow I'd never put welding heat to the crankshaft like that, seems risky and unnecessary. I'd rather chisel it carefully as recommended.
My Cummins seal came with a red coating on the outer surface instead of the bare metal on the one you show. I'm thinking it is a sealing material so would I still use the Loctite 545? Great video!
I wouldn't think so. My oem 175000 mile seal without the red coating had absolutely no oil make it's way through that area. It all came out of the seal. I just installed a seal with that red coating without the loctite.
Great video as always. THANK YOU! was going great so far on my 06 Mega 3500 DRW but now stuck on having to remove an old sleeve on-there. Will try the chisel recommendation, but not super confident... Maybe applying heat/torch to the sleeve surface will help? Or will the heat make it worse? Last resort is to pay some mobile welder for the nutz method :-//
Curious what kind of oil you're using just before installing the wear sleeve. Looks lightweight, but I want to be sure. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks! --Jake
Couldn't you take the six bolts off the fan drive pulley, remove the pulley, then have access to use a ratchet and socket on the bolt behind the pulley?
You can, in this case the bolts on the pulley were tight enough that I couldn’t hold the pulley and get the bolts broke loose, so I removed the whole drive.
Not sure if you are still responding to inquiries but here goes. My question... is one tube of the TA-31 enough to go all the way around the timing cover? I hope you make more videos I founds the video very helpful, Thanks
most of these front covers are stamped uneven and the seal never goes in square no matter what special tool /jig you have now ive installed about a thousand of these and thats not an exaggeration i use a piece of pipe trimmed back .180 to put wear sleeve on and if you need a wear sleeve you should probably rebuild the motor ive had wear sleeves destroy seals
I did this the way the video shows and after hitting the install to the way u did the seal got crooked and the install ripped the black runner part of seal so I had to buy another one
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for great video save me a lot money, were I can buy those parts and tools?
Front crank case seal
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3802820/
Front crankshaft seal installation tool
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3824498/
Front Crank Case Seal Kit
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/stock-replacement/dodge-89-07-front-crank-seal.htm
Awesome
Do you have the replacement front crack seal that ALREADY has the wear sleeve installed?
THANK YOU for showing every frustrating second and not skipping forward. It helps to see what im actually tackling
We keep things real around here.
@@thoroughbreddiesel thank you very much ! I have a question about cover gasket. Could you use a 12v gasket cover on 24 v cover instead to put sealant?
@@pelvismc I am n
Thank you for not editing out the challenges, like the harmonic balancer removal, too many video's edit difficulties, therefore editing the process of solving those difficulties. It takes great effort to for an experienced mechanic to put themselves in the mindset of the inexperienced and not skip over some minor but important details. Great job, thanks again, Chris
You're welcome and thanks!
Just an FYI. Dodge sells this cover that has the seal already installed. Save you the headache of installing a new seal in the cover, and cleaning the cover you’ve taken off. It cost me $75.00 for the cover. (2014 Ram 2500 SLT 6.7L). Be careful with the fan motor, and the clip, it breaks easily and the motor isn’t cheap. Be careful not to dent the radiator. Stay calm, and good luck.
I had my seal done at the dealer under warranty and got a free radiator out of it, the mechanic poked a whole in it during the process!.
Do you have the link for where you ordered the cover that has the seal already
@@Therobert1441 no he doesnt bc he didnt even do the repair!
It's 250 for a new cover
@@johnnysprocketz came here to say this exact same thing! Amen brother
Been dreading this job and buying oil. This gives me more hope for sure
I always use a wear sleeve. Any motor over 150K miles is going to have a groove in the crank from my experience and the install tools are a must have
I've seen other ways to do this job, but THIS guy goes through every process! I watched the video 3 times before I started and had to revisit some parts as I was doing the job. I'm glad that I ordered the crank repair sleeve because my crank snout was really worn (at only 228,000 miles!), causing a monster oil leak. The Ford permatex and the LocTite 545 worked beautifully. Installed a KDP kit and a water pump while I had it apart. Thanks for such an informative video, sir!
You're welcome!
Do the new front crank seals that have a red coating on the outside still require the LocTite 545? A lot of conflicting info out there. Some say the red coating is a sealant and adding the LocTite to this will make it leak. Thanks @@thoroughbreddiesel
Brother i'm in the middle of this RIGHT NOW , your video was everything I needed to have peace about this job ,Thanks Steve
Thank you. That is why we make the videos. :)
I was looking for a KDP tab video that didn't skip steps. This was perfect even if it wasn't what the video was made for.
BEST, real time, full explanation, step by step video EVERRRRRR!!! Thank you so much for the great content and all the info!! +++++
You're very welcome!
You guys have the best videos I watch them all the time and it helps me work on my 06 2500 & 3500 everything is always explained meticulously and well and everything is done to a T love them. Please don’t stop making them.
Thank you!
I'm planning on getting everything I need to install both gaskets on my 94 12 timing cover.... Always majorly saving my life motivational to me.... Salute , , blessings to everyone grind and motivations......
Glad I could help!
I love how detailed and thorough these videos are
Thanks!
Wade, thank you so much for all the videos you and your team produce for us dyiers. Thoroughbred diesels help all us owners keep our vehicles on the road. Thank you sir
Our pleasure! You're welcome! Thank you!
Once you get the wear sleeve tool started straight, mark one of the flats on each bolt with a sharpie so you know they're turning in sync.
Very informative video. Thanks, I have this task coming up shortly when I do the KDP on my 94, 5.9
Good luck! Thanks!
Awesome videos. Taught me alot. This guy is highly educated and accurate.
Thanks Chad!
Love the long videos. The details are what make the job work!!
Glad you like them!
Great video.Thank you.I found it much easier to use your excellent fitting tool with a hydraulic PRESS ,than a hammer.Easy to get it to go in 'square'.The comment about the clearance between the cover and the gears is important.Mine had just clipped the inside of the cover in 2 places. Use a Gasket !!
You're welcome!
Great job, you didn't mention any speculation as to reason for seal failure, while no close-up crank didn't look bad at all. Wondering if crank ventilation malfunction is causing pressure in crankcase wearing out seal prematurely. My 2005 3500 5.9 seems to be leaking , amount is considerably different with RPM..
Thank you!
as all was a great video a couple of guys tryed telling me you had to remove the camshaft iv went to Dana Tec school in Ohio i guess they thought a old timer was to stupid to do this CRANK SHAFT seal just as i expected it to be stright forward thank you THOROUGHBRED DIESEL
You're welcome!
Major life motivational.... 8m bout to order timing cover kit for 94 Cummins dually.... Salute , Blessings to everyone grind and motivations.... Shoot do y'all need a other truck for a " how to do video " lmao ...
I find it very good explanation video; I have noticed there is not tone ring in the balancer?
Thank you very much for an excellent video. Changing out my seal today.
Very welcome!
Great video. Very nice step by step. Recommend never laying the fan clutch down flat. It should be kept vertical
Thanks!
Nice Job! My 94 5.9 cover had a gasket on it? would you suggest using a small amount of RTV on both sides of it during install?
Yes the 12 valve guys are lucky and they get a gasket. I know the rtv on the gasket works for people, but I never have done it. But if it works for you keep on keepin' on!
Don't forget the KILLER DOWEL PIN kit !!!!
I’ve done mine, your video helped. I didn’t have any of the fancy install tools but was still able to get it installed properly. Used a small piece of wood to install the sleeve. Biggest trouble I had was harmonic balancer bolts were really tight and wanted to strip. Put heat to then carefully and they came out good. Ended up putting new bolts back in.
The trick to loosening the front crank bolts is to remove the transmission inspection plate underneath. Use a prybar to hold the flywheel still and then you can have at it
i always install from the back and even with the tool its never right im always going back to fix it from the front. if your motor needs a wear sleeve it probably needs a whole lot more than a wear sleeve
If you own the big snap on ball joint press kit there is ball joint tool in it that fits the seal perfectly. Easy to press seal into cover
I was searching for a rear main seal video but could not find. Is the rear pretty much the same process particularly with the loctite 545? Thanks great video!
Thanks! We haven’t done a rear main video yet, but Loctite on the rear main is not called for.
Great video. I wish there were more videos as informative as this for working on 5.9 Cummins engines
Thanks!
The crankcase cover appears to be just pressed steel. If some ape has cranked down on the bolts it may have become distorted from the ideal flat plane. I didn't see mention of checking the cover but the one he shows installing seems to show distortion near the crankshaft area.
When installing valve covers, pans or other such parts I like to determine their plane by sliding them along a very flat abrasive surface and see what doesn't show contact. If it's not very true I try to correct it by various means.
Thoroughbred Diesel said applying permatex only to the engine side was wrong but didn't clarify if it's to be on both sides or just the cover side. I just got a 5.9 that just had the lifter cover gasket repaired but appears to have other oil leaks and a large fuel leak. It's kinda torn down now getting new radiator and inter-cooler cleaning. Looks like I'm into gear cover and front seal too @ 250k. A sticker says altered fuel system and injection pump has been replaced once and fuel tank module twice but I still can't see what lift pump it has now. Any ideas? 01 3500 dually HO 6spd X cab full bed. I did get a bit of tightening on the back of head banjo fuel return but not sure if this was the real leak.
Well today I found out changing oil my seal is leaking, at 62 years old this will take a few days, I'll order your installers. I'm a diesel mechanic for 42 years, I'd heat wear sleeve on Macks in oil to 250 degrees and install fast with welding gloves. Yea I'm old
Great video im about to do a work in a dodge with that leaking problem
Nice tools I really looking yo buy so it will make my job easier
Glad I could help!
do you wait for the rtv sealant to harden or put it on wet? thanks for the great vid. With my luck, I'll strip or break one of those 10mm bolts... What happens then-- put the truck down like a lame mule?
Thank you for this! Be nice if you'd also do a oil pan gasket replacement on a 2001 5.9. : )
always put the top stud back in before putting cover back on and use it to guide you on , then ya don't have to rotate cover any to find bolt holes and mess up yer RTV
I'd have to say your videos are my new go to videos from now on when I'm working on my Commins 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4 so needless to say I subscribed to your channel, good good EDUCATIONAL understandable directions and all around good to CONTENT, Thank you.
Awesome, thank you! Glad they helped you out.
@@thoroughbreddiesel do you have a video on the rear main seal mine is leaking kinda bad ??? I know it a big job but if I had some direction that would help a lot any feedback would be much appreciated, Thanks.
Is it normal for the wear sleeve to crunch onto the edge of the Key like that? If you warmed (220 degrees) the wear sleeve up it would slip on there...just slide it over until it touches the key and let it cool...boom you’re done. No tools required.
I am about to take this job on since I am replacing the radiator, thermostat, water pump and belt tensioner on my 2001 4x4 with 265k miles on it. I got the Ford 7.3 gasket maker like you recommended. It recommends a couple of other Ford products for cleaning and prepping the surfaces for this task. One of these recommended products is from $160-$250 for surface cleaning wipes. I'm obviously not going that route and wanted to ask what you would recommend as a cleaning solvent for this in addition to using scotch brite. Thanks for making these helpful videos for us do it ourselfers.
You're welcome! Good luck!
I was told to never use oil or anything on the shaft that the seal is being installed on. How on that
You should put links to the tools you use in the video.. Mainly cause I've tried to find them an There not in your store
Links are in the description.
just wanted to say...Thank You
Thank you for your kind words. This is why we do what we do.
Thanks for your video. Is the same process for 2005 ..
Awesome video, was able to get it done on my 06’ 5.9 with 339,000 miles…was stressful, but this video helped every step of the way! Out of curiosity how much would it cost to do this job at Thoroughbred Diesel?
Great to hear! We no longer work on customers' trucks.
The 4 or 5 bolts @ 7m30s I had those bolts all Loosen up and sheer all 4 or 5. I had a heck of a time. Also took me a while of just staring at the carnage to even understand what happened
To avoid the necessity of installing a wear sleeve I installed my new seal into the cover at a different depth…a depth where it would ride on a new virgin spot on the crank as opposed to riding on the exact same worn spot as the old seal by taking depth measurements from cover to seal to insure that it went in square. So I didn’t use the depth tool instead I used a depth measurement tool to get equal measurements taken at 120 degree intervals locations. If I recall correctly my three measurements were .115 depth from cover surface to seal so wear sleeve was not needed because the new seal would ride on the crank at a new depth location. After approximately 5k miles it doesn’t leak at all. I removed the cover to do the kdp tab instal at approximately 320k miles on my ‘97 12valve.
Thanks for the great video. Question: is this the same for the third gen? My harmonic balance has a tdc tic mark on it. Should I bring the motor to tdc before removal?
Not necessary to bring to TDC, but the crank for the common rails is a little different in that it has an alignment dowl on it. That dowel will need to be removed if you are using the wear sleeve installation tool.
The new 6.7 cranks have a dowel already in them if I'm correct how will the wear sleeve tool work with that I didn't see any ports for that to poke through
We suggest filing the dowel down or heating and removing.
Red scotch brite pad and pb blaster will usually get that damper worked loose be a good time to do water pump and belt tensioner on it tach drive sensor supposed to go on the studs 24 valve should be on side of block
It is not wise to lay the fan clutch down. It should always be sat down in a vertical position. The part suppliers have even learned to set them on the shelf upright bc the fluid will travel to one side of the clutch causing premature failure
awesome video. I got a 2nd gen 12v that I gotta replace the front main on... do you think a wear sleeve is recommended if the truck only has 160k miles?
Its really going to depend on what you find when you get in there. If you can feel a groove on the crank with your fingernail, I would suggest the wear sleeve.
@@thoroughbreddiesel sweet okay simple enough thanks bud 💪
hey bud im back... why do you put the wear sleeve on with the chamfered edge towards the motor?
I have this can below my crankshaft filter, there's a tube from filter to this can. I have oil all over the front. I can't see where it's leaking around the crankshaft cover. I'm going crazy with all this oil.
Is this process pretty similar for 3rd gen trucks? As in room you’ll have
How do you know if your crank is worn enough to require the wear sleeve? Or can you install it on any? I have 400k miles, but no evidence that it is over worn. Need to do KDP, don’t want to get it all open and then learn the hard way that I needed it or didn’t need it. If it’s not sufficiently worn, can the wear sleeve still be installed? Great video, I like that it shows the work and some of the challenges.
On that where sleeve they got those coatings that helps prevent where diamond like coding is one of them and there’s other companies out there that do coatings also I bet you would make that sleeve last indefinitely and you won’t have to ever change it again anyway just an idea this is six in a row jim saying have a good day from Kennerdell PA
Great video! I'm doing a full rebuild on a 5.9 right now and have referred to a few of your videos now. I have already put my harmonic balancer back on and missed putting the dust seal on. Did you put one on in here? Am I ok without it or should I pull it apart?
Truthfully, we hardly ever use the dust seal. Most of the seals we carry actually don’t have the external dust seal.
Great video Wade. Answered many questions I have except one. Can you do a video on removal of work wear sleeve? I have a 96 that has one needing replacement. Thanks
Have you done or could you do a bearing change on the fan hub ? On a 5.9 ... There has to be a way to change out the bearing and not buy the whole assembly
I have one with 305k miles should I count on needing the wear seal bushing without tearing into it yet ?
It’s a visual thing. Once you get there, if the groove is deep enough, go with a sleeve.
Outstanding video guys. Just got myself a 98 3500 12v and it is leaking oil from the front seal and vacuum pump, making a mess of everything. Will definitely be buying the wear sleeve/ seal kit and both installation tools. Thanks for the info!
Thanks! Good luck!
Did you reseat your killer dowel pin and add the retainment cover over the dowel hole to prevent it from backing out?
Do you suggest permatex over an oem gasket for the front cover?
The 5.9 98.5 and up and 6.7’s trucks call for silicone sealer on the front cover, there is no gasket.
Hey Wade, on my 01 24v Cummins I was curious on if there is an oil gasket or something sitting to the side of the A/C compressor? Looks like I’m leaking a lot of oil but can’t pin point exactly where, but I know the crank seal is leaking and I’m not sure if my CCVF has ever been changed either 🤷
It could be blowing back from the crank seal. I would replace it and then see what you are left with. On the AC comp side, there is only oil filter housing gasket but I haven’t seen those leak.
Great video! Very thorough! What did you use to clean the cover and mounting surface? Mine has been taking an oil shower for a while and it is a huge mess. I have the radiator out as it sprung a leak.
The mounting surface we cleaned with a roll loc gasket cleaner. I have soaked the front covers in a Dawn degreaser solution that softens up the grime, then can be cleaned off the next day.
I always screw in two guide studs finger tight to line up and support the cover
We really need to get him some Milwaukee ratchets lol. It felt like 1903 with actual ratchets and wrenches. All kidding aside, awesome video.
LOL....thank you!
If you don't use the balancer bolts to pull it up onto the crank, how do you get it pulled up onto the crank?
The sleeve? You need to use the sleeve install tool.
Since you had the front cover off, i'm surprized you didn't inspect the dowel pin in the front cover for the "killer dowel pin" update.
He's workin on a 24v not a 12v
I needed to see if you used the plastic sleeve when you put the cover on the engine! Thanks you answered my question! Great video!
Thank you. That is why we make the videos.
do you have to drain the oil before starting on taking front gear cover off?
No, there will only be a small amount of residual oil in the cover.
How hard is it to get that wear sleeve off ? And approximately how many miles/hours do expect it to under daily driving and regular hauling ?
To remove you just hit it in three places with a chisel and that makes relief so that it can be removed. I cant answer that on wear, Ive run one for 50,000 miles and not seen any noticeable wear to be concerned about.
I found it to be a great video regardless of all these backseat drivers great job
Thanks!
2 questions. I noticed you did not install a KDP keeper. Was there on already in place? Also, you did not replace the water pump while you were in there. Why not? My 2000 non-53 block Cummins has only 205k miles. I've owned it 20 years, bought at 53k miles and it has not been worked very hard. Is the crankshaft wear spacer necessary in my case? I do plan on keeping it as my last truck.
KDP kit is probably something that should have been done at this time however its isn't as big of a problem on the 24 valve trucks so we didn’t attack it. Water pump would have also been a nice upgrade, but was recently done on that truck. I do suggest doing the wear sleeve with the mileage on your truck just for piece of mind.
Thank you, I will.
What is KDP?
So how did you get off the balancer??
Any tips on removing the wear sleeve?
What would be expected for a shop bill , both with previous sleeve and 1st sleeve.
Based on my trucks back storie this was done as preventive maintenance. And is now starting to fail@ ~400k mi
Hi I have the 24v cummins does the harmonic balancer needs any threat lock on the bolts? When putting it back together.
Installation does not call for locktite.
Good video but I’m surprised you didn’t mention the KDP issue and to address it while the cover was off? Anyway still a very informative video, thanks
While this video is Super Informative, it adds one step that causes great confusion on my end. The Locktite 545 step...
I have always heard & have always read in part instructions, that it is imperative this seal go in "clean & dry" without the aid of lubricants or rtv's getting it where it needs to go.
In other words, the Teflon seal needs unobstructed/clean contact with the crank snout.
If that's the case, why are we using the 545?? It seems to fly in the face of all the warning literature that usually come in the box with the Part.
Thank you very much for this video! I am wondering how to remove an old repair sleeve? Will it be easily pulled, or is there another tool which will be needed? I am getting ready to tackle this, and will be picking up all the correct tools, and supplies from you guys to do so.
More than likely if you didn’t put a repair sleeve on the engine, it probably won't have one. The Cummins procedure for removing an old sleeve is to lightly chisel the old sleeve off, being careful not to damage the crank.
Weld 4 nuts onto the sleeve and make a metal plate with 4 holes a d put a wooden block In between then insert bolts a d evenly crank down on the bolts until it pulls the old sleeve off but wear sleeves are not installed from the factory so u won't alwasy have one
@@tonynewsomjr.4043 Wow I'd never put welding heat to the crankshaft like that, seems risky and unnecessary. I'd rather chisel it carefully as recommended.
Great video for a old shade tree mechanic.
Thanks 👍
purchased the Mahle Cummins 5.9 timing cover crank seal, part 48383. It has a skinny black seal that I have not seen before....
The black o-ring is for the trucks that have that o-ring on the catch can on the front cover.
If the crank case breather tube is leaking oil out the tube does this repair need to be done?
No. not if your front crank case is not leaking.
Lmao do not! Pry on it. Let me get a pry bar.
My Cummins seal came with a red coating on the outer surface instead of the bare metal on the one you show. I'm thinking it is a sealing material so would I still use the Loctite 545? Great video!
I wouldn't think so. My oem 175000 mile seal without the red coating had absolutely no oil make it's way through that area. It all came out of the seal. I just installed a seal with that red coating without the loctite.
Great video as always. THANK YOU! was going great so far on my 06 Mega 3500 DRW but now stuck on having to remove an old sleeve on-there. Will try the chisel recommendation, but not super confident... Maybe applying heat/torch to the sleeve surface will help? Or will the heat make it worse? Last resort is to pay some mobile welder for the nutz method :-//
Closing the loop: Chisel worked perfectly to remove the old sleeve. Thank you Thoroughbred Diesel !
Thank goodness for your videos you are a good instructor.
It doesn’t matter how you put the harmonic balancer back? No tdc needed?
Great video. No mention of the dowel pin? Must have already been done on this motor.
dowel pin was on 12v cummins his truck is 24v
Did you only use silicone as the gasket
For the 1998.5 and up trucks, yes.
Do you have to drain engine oil before replacing the front crankshaft seal?
No, always a good idea to do it because of the contaminants that could get into the case from the replacement.
Curious what kind of oil you're using just before installing the wear sleeve. Looks lightweight, but I want to be sure. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks! --Jake
Hey Jake, just normal 15W40.
Any particular way to do it if not using the depth setter
You can eyeball it or measure as you go.
Wiring harness above alternator floating not bolted down
Couldn't you take the six bolts off the fan drive pulley, remove the pulley, then have access to use a ratchet and socket on the bolt behind the pulley?
You can, in this case the bolts on the pulley were tight enough that I couldn’t hold the pulley and get the bolts broke loose, so I removed the whole drive.
Not sure if you are still responding to inquiries but here goes. My question... is one tube of the TA-31 enough to go all the way around the timing cover? I hope you make more videos I founds the video very helpful, Thanks
Yes, one tube will get the job done for sure, with some to spare if you aren’t applying it too thick. Thank you!
Very amazing video thank you for taking the time for sharing this valuable information
Glad it was helpful!
most of these front covers are stamped uneven and the seal
never goes in square no matter what special tool /jig you have now ive installed about a thousand of these and thats not an exaggeration i use a piece of pipe trimmed back .180 to put wear sleeve on and if you need a wear sleeve you should probably rebuild the motor ive had wear sleeves destroy seals
I did this the way the video shows and after hitting the install to the way u did the seal got crooked and the install ripped the black runner part of seal so I had to buy another one