@@joseduranjr4963 yes it's the same block but there are different components from the cars. The truck engines had unique parts including pistons for different compression ratios from the car engines, truck specific intake and exhaust manifolds, camshaft with more lift, and timing set that did not retard the camshaft timing.
Unfortunately yes. The pan bolts up to the bottom of the timing chain cover and there's a rubber gasket between. You could try without pulling the pan but I'm not sure how you would seal it after. You'll have to pull the dip stick tube and starter to get all the pan bolts off and jack body up to get full suspension drop to pull the pan out. It was tight. By the time I was done with my build I think pulling the motor would be an easier route getting the new pan seals to seat right is a pain.
@@wolfiebiomech7313 you can pull the pan without pulling the engine. You have to jack the front end up so the suspension can be at full drop in order to manuver the pan out around the oil pump and front axel. You'll have to take the starter and dipstick tube off too.
It's hard to give you a true estimate cause I was working on other things when doing this. If you had all the seals and new chain and gears ready you might be able to pull it off in a day or two.
Whatd you put on the bolt end when reinstalling the water pump? Silicone gasket maker? 12:50
Yes I use Permatex water pump gasket maker amzn.to/3XCjdfK
Is that the same 6.6 (400) engine used in the 1979 Lincoln Mark V?
@@joseduranjr4963 yes it's the same block but there are different components from the cars. The truck engines had unique parts including pistons for different compression ratios from the car engines, truck specific intake and exhaust manifolds, camshaft with more lift, and timing set that did not retard the camshaft timing.
Is the exhaust valve supposed to be down or up?
@@TripleCurlProductions the exhaust valve should be closed when piston #1 is at Top Dead Center.
Thank you
@@hehelnah you're welcome!
do you have to take off the oil pan?
Unfortunately yes. The pan bolts up to the bottom of the timing chain cover and there's a rubber gasket between. You could try without pulling the pan but I'm not sure how you would seal it after. You'll have to pull the dip stick tube and starter to get all the pan bolts off and jack body up to get full suspension drop to pull the pan out. It was tight. By the time I was done with my build I think pulling the motor would be an easier route getting the new pan seals to seat right is a pain.
@@jacobsupgrades dang. I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the engine. I can't get the pan off without taking the engine out.
@@wolfiebiomech7313 you can pull the pan without pulling the engine. You have to jack the front end up so the suspension can be at full drop in order to manuver the pan out around the oil pump and front axel. You'll have to take the starter and dipstick tube off too.
@@jacobsupgrades I just ditched that rubber seal and used a crap load of permatex 1 minute set black
@@h3llsdemon437 that's probably easier. Have you had a chance to run it to see how it holds up?
How long did it take?
It's hard to give you a true estimate cause I was working on other things when doing this. If you had all the seals and new chain and gears ready you might be able to pull it off in a day or two.
Is This A 351 Windsor Or Cleveland Pease?
Neither, it's a 1977 400M. Same process as a 351M
The 400 is not a M block the 351m is coped off of the 351 Cleveland
@@narnialord3940 If the 351M and 400 are the same block then wouldn't the 400 still be an M? When looking up parts they are usually listed 351M/400.
@@narnialord3940it’s the same block deferent stroke crank between a. 351m and 400