Start looking for a pure sine wave UPS not a cheap one. Look for one that will support a 1000w or more, then you can run a separate set of outlets in the house with automatic UPS support. Some server rooms use several 3KVA units, now 3KVA would do a small house nicely and could well be supported by some huge truck batteries.
Ok, big battery is added and it will work. But how long that 7AH circute board/ of UPS will take to Recharge car battery like 80AH, 100AH, 150AH ? 10 days or 15 ?
+Ben Kayfetz Yes you are correct if there is a network connection. I have removed the buzzer on some and installed a LED light in its place. Some smaller units have the ability to add some components and increase the output. They just omited them to have a smaller cheaper unit.
these old ups units were made for computers, it the power went out when you were using your computer you could safely shut it down, there not made to run a fan or refrigerator.
Next time use thicker wire to the car-battery. Don't make a connection to other wires. Don't use bolts and screws for a connection. Go direct to the circuit board, every resistance will cost you los of energy. Something else: think about making a 12V DC net in your house, Many things can be used on a low voltage direct current, such as laptops, reasers, chargers for mobile telephone. The big screen TV wound't work on 12 Vols because it uses to much energy. A small TV set is working. Lightbulbs are to old, go to LED lights. Actually 110V AC is a bit out of date.
12VDC eh... You talk about resistance, though thick bolts and screws will offer very little ... and yet don't mention [or don't know] about the losses related to voltage and wire size, which means either really thick and expensive wire and/or short runs for 12VDC to reduce the wire resistance losses. 110VAC out of date... ROFL... the fact is DC and AC already had a battle in the early history of electricity, ... AC won and for a good reason as it can travel further with less losses. Also higher voltage is used because it gets lower losses. Power outside your house is higher voltage again, the high voltage wires are much higher again, ... all for reduced resistance losses. Why, because it's superior. There is some advantage to not converting from battery DC to AC for certain applications such as a RV, which has little space for solar and have to do the best with it's limited resources. That 5% or so increased efficiency and the very short runs from battery to powered device gives it an edge. Now if we compare that to an average house, the cost of the wire alone will very quickly outdo any potential saving compared to the price of 5% more panel and you'll pay even more for the non-standard electrical equipment, aka supply and demand. So in general nope.
I did Install the wires directly to the board. This unit being a 360 watt unit I didn't need to use heavy wire as it will only be used to run some lights. I have run this unit quite a while and not 1 time has the wire or the connection to the battery has gotten hot.
*interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner ( **lovy.biz/zrsy** ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great results with it.*
Please never ever ever do this. The UPS are only designed to run with the batteries supplied. What happens is the UPS has to run longer than it was designed to. This causes more heat to be generated, and these UPS only have a small heat sink, so it can dissipate the heat quick enough, and it causes the components to melt down. If you look at UPS that come with larger batteries from the factory, they also have larger heat sinks. Heat is generated in discharging and charging the batteries, so you can't charge the batteries and use the UPS to maintain them and expect it to safely power your devices when the power goes out for longer than it was originally designed for. It may, but it wasn't designed to, it can potentially cause more problems.
The size of the heatsink would be related to it's Wattage output. The battery size has nothing to do with it, a fairly small battery and a giant battery are more than capable of providing the maximum output of the unit, aka it will make no difference.
blogobre The heatsink does matter. Its related to wattage output and length of time the heatsink is needed for. Yes, it wont make a difference if you keep the wattage output low, the heatsink will never get too hot. If you use the unit close to its max wattage output, the temperature max continually rise while its being used. That's not an issue for the small batteries because they will be drained before the unit ever reaches a temperature that's too hot. A large battery will continually run over that time, generating more heat. Its just a sign of an undersized cooling system. Its cheaper to just undersized it, the UPS are already heavy and large, which in this world is undesirable by a lot of people, less parts (no fan), etc. They made the units to do one job, and that is to run for the wattage output and time they listed.
Are you saying that 10 mins versus 30 hrs will make a difference in the heatsink? Does the heat keep going up and up as you suggest, rather than radiating the energy away into the air like it's designed to? Are you also saying that a decent maker such as APC have undersized heatsinks in mission critical applications that they back up? Are you saying that systems that at times cost thousands new would undersized a heatsink to make it cheaper and no engineering was done on it? Are you saying that aluminum that's finned weighs much, especially in comparison to the weight and size of the batteries? There's an easy way to calculate it actually and an easier way to test it. Run it at max wattage and check the temp of the heatsink, I bet it's just warm not hot after a few mins and I bet the temperature sits there, as it's designed to do, at least on decent ones. You can also approximately calculate the necessary size via energy that's turned to heat, which is related to the efficiency of the device and the surface area and air flow of the unit. No, I think you're making speculation without much evidence, perhaps repeating a rumor previously told and I'm happy to see the data supporting your position, though I'm skeptical to your assumptions. You also haven't answered the challenge, that is wattage output ... aka generally those units with bigger batteries... is the reason for the larger heatsink, 'not' the larger batteries. If your assumption was true, the units with hot-swapable batteries or 'add on batteries' [which you can daisy chain endlessly if you like] would have to have ever increasing heat sinks to accommodate those larger and larger battery banks. Heck I've seen 20kwh hooked up to an APC 5kw unit. Your position makes zero sense.
blogobre At what point do you think the UPS reaches its max temperature at maximum load? Also have you looked at the run time chart of regular UPS? About half of what you said, 5 minutes, unless you get the more expensive UPS. It takes time to heat up the all the metal inside a UPS, plus the actual case, they have very limited cooling inside a metal case with no fans, etc. Same reason you can start a car without a fan and coolant. You have a limited time that way, but you can still do it. The load you put on the UPS will matter though, and if you ever look at the marketing for a UPS, when they claim long run times, its at a small load, at full load, there is just a few minutes. If you want to prove your point, please do some research and use actual facts.
Ahh, and now you expect me to support my claim... yet my claim is asking you questions about your claim... and you have yet to support your own claim, presumably because you can't, to which is my point. You don't know what you're saying here, you're making speculations without evidence. The burden of proof here is on you, it's a 2500 year philosophical [and now scientific] principle. I'm more than happy to be wrong here, though I require 'some' level of data to support it, not just 'what you think'.
Start looking for a pure sine wave UPS not a cheap one. Look for one that will support a 1000w or more, then you can run a separate set of outlets in the house with automatic UPS support.
Some server rooms use several 3KVA units, now 3KVA would do a small house nicely and could well be supported by some huge truck batteries.
Ok, big battery is added and it will work. But how long that 7AH circute board/ of UPS will take to Recharge car battery like 80AH, 100AH, 150AH ? 10 days or 15 ?
Most UPSs buzzers can be disabled or set to a schedule by logging into the UPSs firmware...
+Ben Kayfetz Yes you are correct if there is a network connection. I have removed the buzzer on some and installed a LED light in its place. Some smaller units have the ability to add some components and increase the output. They just omited them to have a smaller cheaper unit.
This is fascinating stuff, Wayne. There seems to be a lot of potential for these devices.
Thanks for the education!
these old ups units were made for computers, it the power went out when you were using your computer you could safely shut it down, there not made to run a fan or refrigerator.
I have used this one for a few years now to run lights and it is still working. They are good for light duty stuff like lights with no issues.
Next time use thicker wire to the car-battery. Don't make a connection to other wires. Don't use bolts and screws for a connection. Go direct to the circuit board, every resistance will cost you los of energy.
Something else: think about making a 12V DC net in your house, Many things can be used on a low voltage direct current, such as laptops, reasers, chargers for mobile telephone. The big screen TV wound't work on 12 Vols because it uses to much energy. A small TV set is working. Lightbulbs are to old, go to LED lights. Actually 110V AC is a bit out of date.
12VDC eh... You talk about resistance, though thick bolts and screws will offer very little ... and yet don't mention [or don't know] about the losses related to voltage and wire size, which means either really thick and expensive wire and/or short runs for 12VDC to reduce the wire resistance losses. 110VAC out of date... ROFL... the fact is DC and AC already had a battle in the early history of electricity, ... AC won and for a good reason as it can travel further with less losses. Also higher voltage is used because it gets lower losses. Power outside your house is higher voltage again, the high voltage wires are much higher again, ... all for reduced resistance losses. Why, because it's superior.
There is some advantage to not converting from battery DC to AC for certain applications such as a RV, which has little space for solar and have to do the best with it's limited resources. That 5% or so increased efficiency and the very short runs from battery to powered device gives it an edge. Now if we compare that to an average house, the cost of the wire alone will very quickly outdo any potential saving compared to the price of 5% more panel and you'll pay even more for the non-standard electrical equipment, aka supply and demand. So in general nope.
I did Install the wires directly to the board. This unit being a 360 watt unit I didn't need to use heavy wire as it will only be used to run some lights. I have run this unit quite a while and not 1 time has the wire or the connection to the battery has gotten hot.
*interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out how to recondition used car batteries try Panlarko Recondition Planner ( **lovy.biz/zrsy** ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my m8 got great results with it.*
Sir William was playing around with it when we met, do you remember?" Jack said to Clare. "He was storing charges in boxes.
Reconditioned & New Batteries
Forklift Traction Battery Repair
Please never ever ever do this. The UPS are only designed to run with the batteries supplied. What happens is the UPS has to run longer than it was designed to. This causes more heat to be generated, and these UPS only have a small heat sink, so it can dissipate the heat quick enough, and it causes the components to melt down.
If you look at UPS that come with larger batteries from the factory, they also have larger heat sinks.
Heat is generated in discharging and charging the batteries, so you can't charge the batteries and use the UPS to maintain them and expect it to safely power your devices when the power goes out for longer than it was originally designed for. It may, but it wasn't designed to, it can potentially cause more problems.
The size of the heatsink would be related to it's Wattage output. The battery size has nothing to do with it, a fairly small battery and a giant battery are more than capable of providing the maximum output of the unit, aka it will make no difference.
blogobre
The heatsink does matter. Its related to wattage output and length of time the heatsink is needed for.
Yes, it wont make a difference if you keep the wattage output low, the heatsink will never get too hot.
If you use the unit close to its max wattage output, the temperature max continually rise while its being used. That's not an issue for the small batteries because they will be drained before the unit ever reaches a temperature that's too hot. A large battery will continually run over that time, generating more heat.
Its just a sign of an undersized cooling system. Its cheaper to just undersized it, the UPS are already heavy and large, which in this world is undesirable by a lot of people, less parts (no fan), etc.
They made the units to do one job, and that is to run for the wattage output and time they listed.
Are you saying that 10 mins versus 30 hrs will make a difference in the heatsink? Does the heat keep going up and up as you suggest, rather than radiating the energy away into the air like it's designed to? Are you also saying that a decent maker such as APC have undersized heatsinks in mission critical applications that they back up? Are you saying that systems that at times cost thousands new would undersized a heatsink to make it cheaper and no engineering was done on it? Are you saying that aluminum that's finned weighs much, especially in comparison to the weight and size of the batteries?
There's an easy way to calculate it actually and an easier way to test it. Run it at max wattage and check the temp of the heatsink, I bet it's just warm not hot after a few mins and I bet the temperature sits there, as it's designed to do, at least on decent ones. You can also approximately calculate the necessary size via energy that's turned to heat, which is related to the efficiency of the device and the surface area and air flow of the unit.
No, I think you're making speculation without much evidence, perhaps repeating a rumor previously told and I'm happy to see the data supporting your position, though I'm skeptical to your assumptions.
You also haven't answered the challenge, that is wattage output ... aka generally those units with bigger batteries... is the reason for the larger heatsink, 'not' the larger batteries. If your assumption was true, the units with hot-swapable batteries or 'add on batteries' [which you can daisy chain endlessly if you like] would have to have ever increasing heat sinks to accommodate those larger and larger battery banks. Heck I've seen 20kwh hooked up to an APC 5kw unit. Your position makes zero sense.
blogobre
At what point do you think the UPS reaches its max temperature at maximum load?
Also have you looked at the run time chart of regular UPS? About half of what you said, 5 minutes, unless you get the more expensive UPS.
It takes time to heat up the all the metal inside a UPS, plus the actual case, they have very limited cooling inside a metal case with no fans, etc. Same reason you can start a car without a fan and coolant. You have a limited time that way, but you can still do it.
The load you put on the UPS will matter though, and if you ever look at the marketing for a UPS, when they claim long run times, its at a small load, at full load, there is just a few minutes.
If you want to prove your point, please do some research and use actual facts.
Ahh, and now you expect me to support my claim... yet my claim is asking you questions about your claim... and you have yet to support your own claim, presumably because you can't, to which is my point. You don't know what you're saying here, you're making speculations without evidence.
The burden of proof here is on you, it's a 2500 year philosophical [and now scientific] principle.
I'm more than happy to be wrong here, though I require 'some' level of data to support it, not just 'what you think'.
whats with the "uhh" every other word?
:)
I think the video would be half the length otherwise.
Gee ...thanks, I wouldn't have noticed, but since you had said something now its really annoying.