Thank you for the reply... great work keep it up we have enough problems finding parts in South Africa so finding such good explanations really helps us out here... thank you
Hi Aksman thanks for putting up this vid, know its been 3 years ago ,but its been very helpful in how i wire this PWM up as the wire up of the motor is not marked negative and positive,yourvid shows it clear how to so great referance thanks :) ,im in Adealide South Australia by the way :)
Thanks Adealide! You have a nice PWM company in your continent called Motion Dynamics. I have purchased from them before and it might be worth a look for you.
This is similar to what I was going to do to my setup. I may even setup a simple double pole three way bypass switch so there is no disconnect and reconnecting of wires- just turn the switch. I have one of those cheap Chinese 60 amp,PWM controllers and they do get hot if running at higher speeds. I was going to wire a small 12volt dc computer fan to the output of the PWM controller. That way the faster you dial up the speed, the faster the fan will go. Very low noise and extremely low power consumption and will keep the controller cool.
I did the same thing but a lot simpler. My trolling motor cable got a quick disconnect on them. It's the same for the PWM. I just made another quick disconnect that connected straight to the battery with a second in line fuse, so if the PWM blow I just disconnect from it. I then plug it straight into the reserve that hooked straight to the battery.
Would it be feasible to pre-wire the original tiller head and controls with the correct pigtails so you could easily revert back to OEM functions if the PWM fails? If so, would love to see you do a video on it! 😁
I have been wondering about this problem too. There are two other possible solutions. One is to leave the trolling motor head on the unit so that you can just unplug the trolling motor from the PWM and plug direct to the battery. This has the added benefit that at least you still have speed control. The second option is to "wire up" a second PWM with quick connects so that you can just unplug the failed PWM and plug in the new one. Of course, what options you have are entirely dependent on positioning your PWM, battery and trolling motor connects close enough to each other to be able to bypass if necessary. And then there's issue of whether you have access to all the connections while on the water too. Great video. Any guess/opinion on the failure rate of these PWM's?
Thanks Craig. I am a member of a few kayak related FB pages and have heard stories of some PWMs failing so I started thinking about a solution. You could carry extra controllers but that would be a lot of extra stuff to carry. This is basically to be used in an emergency to get you back where you can do more permanent repairs.
Hi. Honestly, it is not very difficult and I am not trying to be condescending. Just connect the breaker about 1 foot or less from the battery and run all your power needs after the breaker.
Thank you for the reply... great work keep it up we have enough problems finding parts in South Africa so finding such good explanations really helps us out here... thank you
Hi Aksman thanks for putting up this vid, know its been 3 years ago ,but its been very helpful in how i wire this PWM up as the wire up of the motor is not marked negative and positive,yourvid shows it clear how to so great referance thanks :) ,im in Adealide South Australia by the way :)
Thanks Adealide! You have a nice PWM company in your continent called Motion Dynamics. I have purchased from them before and it might be worth a look for you.
This is similar to what I was going to do to my setup. I may even setup a simple double pole three way bypass switch so there is no disconnect and reconnecting of wires- just turn the switch. I have one of those cheap Chinese 60 amp,PWM controllers and they do get hot if running at higher speeds. I was going to wire a small 12volt dc computer fan to the output of the PWM controller. That way the faster you dial up the speed, the faster the fan will go. Very low noise and extremely low power consumption and will keep the controller cool.
I did the same thing but a lot simpler. My trolling motor cable got a quick disconnect on them. It's the same for the PWM. I just made another quick disconnect that connected straight to the battery with a second in line fuse, so if the PWM blow I just disconnect from it. I then plug it straight into the reserve that hooked straight to the battery.
Would it be feasible to pre-wire the original tiller head and controls with the correct pigtails so you could easily revert back to OEM functions if the PWM fails?
If so, would love to see you do a video on it! 😁
It is possible but not very practical. If you don't want to use a jumper then an easier solution would be to carry a spare PWM.
I have been wondering about this problem too. There are two other possible solutions. One is to leave the trolling motor head on the unit so that you can just unplug the trolling motor from the PWM and plug direct to the battery. This has the added benefit that at least you still have speed control. The second option is to "wire up" a second PWM with quick connects so that you can just unplug the failed PWM and plug in the new one. Of course, what options you have are entirely dependent on positioning your PWM, battery and trolling motor connects close enough to each other to be able to bypass if necessary. And then there's issue of whether you have access to all the connections while on the water too. Great video. Any guess/opinion on the failure rate of these PWM's?
Thanks Craig. I am a member of a few kayak related FB pages and have heard stories of some PWMs failing so I started thinking about a solution. You could carry extra controllers but that would be a lot of extra stuff to carry. This is basically to be used in an emergency to get you back where you can do more permanent repairs.
Which works better and lasts longer the pwn or esc controllers???
The ESC's last longer for trolling motors less than 50lb thrust.
Could you do a video showing how to wire a circuit breaker with a PWM? Thanks.
Hi. Honestly, it is not very difficult and I am not trying to be condescending. Just connect the breaker about 1 foot or less from the battery and run all your power needs after the breaker.
Aksman very helpful! I was initially going to run the motor positive to the PWM then to breaker and breaker to battery.
How to change the blown fuse , why?
Sometimes these things fail and they can't be fixed. You should already have a circuit breaker at the battery.