Yeah I'm considering going down this path. However I am looking for something slim, and trying to avoid this sort of look :) www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/163z18t/starlink_inside_a_tesla_model_y/
I wouldn't epoxy anything to the Dishy. For a much lower profile, just attach two pairs of suction cups to two pieces of wood, or whatever you have handy, and put the Dishy between the cross-pieces and the glass. Use foam to snug things up and protect the Dishy from vibration. Much lower profile and lots of ways to design/adjust it for the best fit and best look. And no attaching anything to the Dishy itself, it just gets cradled.
Thank you very much and also to Mr Oleg ! Just did on my gen 2 dish and it is working perfectly, very nice solution to keep it simple, less components, lighter and hopefully subject to less point of failures. Best regards from city of Campinas state os São Paulo, BRAZIL 4.Aug.2024
14:09 Perhaps try the 3m command strips again but this time, wipe the glass surface with alcohol wipes to make sure it’s free from grease/dirt. Or for a more stronger bond, use the 3M VHB adhesive tape.
the phased array is on a solid pcb so you should'nt try to flex it to match the roof as it will fatigue the copper traces over time and could kill the dish, and even if you somehow bend it, it cpuld significantly decrease the performance and reliability as each antennas factory calibration will be off. I think you could possibly try using double sided suction cups (if they exist, or diy them). if they are big it could decrease the visibility but if it works well, in future you could get a thin peice of wood or plastic that is a little wider than the antenna, secure the antenna onto it and mount the suction cups on the sides to stop the obstructions, @AUSY8
I would use a couple of lengths of conduit 20mm ends Flattened by heat gun to enable them to push between roof lining and sun roof front and back and curved upwards with starling attached.
@@AUSY8 it wasn't triggering or anything that bad. At the start I was keen to digest what you were showing me but you were switching feeds a little too much for my liking was all. Thank you again for the video, I'm tempted to pull mine apart as I'm currently mounting it flat via suckers. I'm still in the speed testing and reliability phase of that approach as it's kinda a one way trip.
Really great info. I'm tempted to do the same. Right now I'm storing the Starlink kit in the footwell and only take it out when needed, which is annoying. The 12V conversion is genius. What is the weight of the antenna when ready to stick to the ceiling?
Thank you. 1. Do you think it could be installed width-wise rather than length-wise (rotated 90 degrees)? I'm thinking it could ease the attachment quality with 2 sided sticky material (can't find the exact name right now), due to the curvature of the roof. Reason I'm asking is, do satellites require the antenna to be vertical or can it accept being horizontal? There may be an effect with wave polarization. 2. Do you intend on trying the same with the latest dish that came out recently (late 2023), which I think it Gen 4 hardware? Thanks a lot, this is amazing content!
One question is when you are powering Dishy from 15 volts in you M3 does the car actively keep the low voltage battery charged or are you now powering from the low voltage battery meaning you could flatten it if used too long.
The car high voltage battery keeps the low voltage battery charged automatically. There would only be a risk of flattening it, if the high voltage batt was on a low state of charge or flat
i have followed all the steps, but have obviously done something wrong ..... dishy works as it should, it comes on line, it even updated but having tried two different routers i keep getting a WAN disconnected message - i am assuming its an issue with the data cable into the dish or am i using the wrong router (unlikely ...) i am using a tp link archer a50 and gnet 1300. as they both give me the same error message, then it has to be the ethernet cable or the connections. i am using cat 6 external cable. i will redo the connectors tomorrow and have another go ..... but one question i do have is - is the ground cable required for the data, if so how do i get that back to the router or can i ground it somewhere in the enclosure?
Sorry to hear it's half working. I think you are close if Dishy is online. I'm assuming it also shows as online from your account on Starlink.com? I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's probably your ethernet connector. Remember to wire it as a "B' connector and use the Starlink colours as normal, i.e. no swapped colours. Also make sure the wires are well seated. I've prepared many an ethernet connector where a wire or two is not seated correctly. As for ground, I did not ground the connector.I used a plastic connector and I don't think it has facility to use ground. Hope this helps. Good luck
@@AUSY8 thanks, it WAS an issue with my crimper not making the connection properly, for some reason it wasnt pushing down on pin number 6 !! all now sorted. thanks. as you said, ground isnt needed. for my enclosure i have used a 45mm wide piece of upvc window trim, i used my wofes crafting heat gun to bend the upvc around a simple jig. it actually works brilliantly, no need for 3d printed enclosure, i scorched a couple of corners, but next time i would heat from the inside so you wouldnt see it. it is secured to dishy using sikkaflex and is pretty solid. a purpose size cut piece of perspex will be used on the bottom. is there a way i can send you a couple of photos as it might help others? as i have two starlinks, my next project will be to move to a one cable connection. i could do this with a poe injector and splitter i believe, BUT i am considering using a cat 6 cable but only using four of the wires for TX and RX and the other four for power in/out. so it would be an rj45 with four RX and TX out of the router, then a connector allowing me to add power to the unused wires and then at the dishy end (internally( the cable would be split again, with only the rx and tx going into the dishy connector and the other two going to the power connections. can you see any reasons why this wouldnt work? i am aware that it would cap the mbs to around 100mbs, but that is more than enough for my needs in my RV (motorhome in the UK)
@@misterb5216 Wow that is wonderful news. Well done. You can contact me using this address: redwood_watt.0k@icloud.com - if you are interested I would be keen to include you and/or your pictures, in a follow up video. You are taking this hack to this next level. I will have to leave it to my followers on the viability of moving to 1 cable.
@@AUSY8 its up and running just using one cable !!! ive used the four data wires in the ethernet cable to provide data from the router and the other four wires to provide power. it looks a bit rough at the moment but i will send photos so you can see the 'concept'. i now no longer need the power connections in the enclosure so will rejig it all when i get back (going over to Europe mainland for a few weeks in my motorhome) im only getting around 60mps but thats more than enough for tv, laptop etc !
ZPDR-10V-S Is the connector to dishy that the data (and original power) uses. You can now do the hack without cutting any cables ! You will need the pins of course, which are a pain in the arse to connect to the wires! Anyone have any tips to do this ??
I have a 48v RV battery from Volta, which powers my inverter to output 110v, then the Starlink power supply converts to 48v, then the dishy converts back to 12v. Wtf
Suction cups. Epoxy the bottom of them to the face of the Dishy. Use the clear ones and get a good quality.
Yeah I'm considering going down this path. However I am looking for something slim, and trying to avoid this sort of look :)
www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/163z18t/starlink_inside_a_tesla_model_y/
I wouldn't epoxy anything to the Dishy. For a much lower profile, just attach two pairs of suction cups to two pieces of wood, or whatever you have handy, and put the Dishy between the cross-pieces and the glass. Use foam to snug things up and protect the Dishy from vibration. Much lower profile and lots of ways to design/adjust it for the best fit and best look. And no attaching anything to the Dishy itself, it just gets cradled.
Thank you very much and also to Mr Oleg !
Just did on my gen 2 dish and it is working perfectly, very nice solution to keep it simple, less components, lighter and hopefully subject to less point of failures.
Best regards from city of Campinas state os São Paulo, BRAZIL 4.Aug.2024
Happy we could be of service. It is a simple mod indeed.
olá qual padrão de pinagem no keystone usou a ou b?
@@danielteixeira4540 This pinout is T568B. Hope that helps.
@@danielteixeira4540 use a T568B
The fixing to the glass could be a problem on a hot day, and should it fall the PCB maybe damaged.
14:09 Perhaps try the 3m command strips again but this time, wipe the glass surface with alcohol wipes to make sure it’s free from grease/dirt. Or for a more stronger bond, use the 3M VHB adhesive tape.
Thanks for the sugestions @AutosNGizmos. Off to Bunnings we go :)
the phased array is on a solid pcb so you should'nt try to flex it to match the roof as it will fatigue the copper traces over time and could kill the dish, and even if you somehow bend it, it cpuld significantly decrease the performance and reliability as each antennas factory calibration will be off. I think you could possibly try using double sided suction cups (if they exist, or diy them). if they are big it could decrease the visibility but if it works well, in future you could get a thin peice of wood or plastic that is a little wider than the antenna, secure the antenna onto it and mount the suction cups on the sides to stop the obstructions, @AUSY8
I would use a couple of lengths of conduit 20mm ends Flattened by heat gun to enable them to push between roof lining and sun roof front and back and curved upwards with starling attached.
Try 3M Hook and loop so you can remove at ease. They have different grades of hook and loop some can carry many Kg in short tabs.
Thanks for the tip @peterwhite6060. Will check those out.
Bodgery at so many levels - bravo !!! Yours truly - an actual engineer ;)
Thanks. We try hard
thank you it was funny and cool! Thanks for the link.
No worries, Glad you liked it.
Thanks for the video. 😊
Any chance of less video feed switches in the video my brain is trying to follow. 😅
No worries. Did not realise this video was triggering. I'll see how I might tone it down in the future.
@@AUSY8 it wasn't triggering or anything that bad. At the start I was keen to digest what you were showing me but you were switching feeds a little too much for my liking was all.
Thank you again for the video, I'm tempted to pull mine apart as I'm currently mounting it flat via suckers. I'm still in the speed testing and reliability phase of that approach as it's kinda a one way trip.
You don't need a 3 pin connector. An XT30 is a small connector used in electric model aircraft available for Banggood or Hobbyking.
Agree. I only used 2 pins. It's what I handy in my small spares box :)
Really great info. I'm tempted to do the same. Right now I'm storing the Starlink kit in the footwell and only take it out when needed, which is annoying.
The 12V conversion is genius.
What is the weight of the antenna when ready to stick to the ceiling?
Thanks, Yeah the 12v conversion is the bees knees. The dish, as shown on the table in the video, is about 1.25kg without any cables.
Thank you.
1. Do you think it could be installed width-wise rather than length-wise (rotated 90 degrees)? I'm thinking it could ease the attachment quality with 2 sided sticky material (can't find the exact name right now), due to the curvature of the roof. Reason I'm asking is, do satellites require the antenna to be vertical or can it accept being horizontal? There may be an effect with wave polarization.
2. Do you intend on trying the same with the latest dish that came out recently (late 2023), which I think it Gen 4 hardware?
Thanks a lot, this is amazing content!
Oh it did fall, should have waited to the end before posting.
One question is when you are powering Dishy from 15 volts in you M3 does the car actively keep the low voltage battery charged or are you now powering from the low voltage battery meaning you could flatten it if used too long.
The car high voltage battery keeps the low voltage battery charged automatically. There would only be a risk of flattening it, if the high voltage batt was on a low state of charge or flat
i have followed all the steps, but have obviously done something wrong ..... dishy works as it should, it comes on line, it even updated but having tried two different routers i keep getting a WAN disconnected message - i am assuming its an issue with the data cable into the dish or am i using the wrong router (unlikely ...) i am using a tp link archer a50 and gnet 1300. as they both give me the same error message, then it has to be the ethernet cable or the connections. i am using cat 6 external cable. i will redo the connectors tomorrow and have another go ..... but one question i do have is - is the ground cable required for the data, if so how do i get that back to the router or can i ground it somewhere in the enclosure?
Sorry to hear it's half working.
I think you are close if Dishy is online. I'm assuming it also shows as online from your account on Starlink.com?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's probably your ethernet connector. Remember to wire it as a "B' connector and use the Starlink colours as normal, i.e. no swapped colours. Also make sure the wires are well seated. I've prepared many an ethernet connector where a wire or two is not seated correctly.
As for ground, I did not ground the connector.I used a plastic connector and I don't think it has facility to use ground.
Hope this helps. Good luck
@@AUSY8 thanks, it WAS an issue with my crimper not making the connection properly, for some reason it wasnt pushing down on pin number 6 !! all now sorted. thanks. as you said, ground isnt needed.
for my enclosure i have used a 45mm wide piece of upvc window trim, i used my wofes crafting heat gun to bend the upvc around a simple jig. it actually works brilliantly, no need for 3d printed enclosure, i scorched a couple of corners, but next time i would heat from the inside so you wouldnt see it. it is secured to dishy using sikkaflex and is pretty solid. a purpose size cut piece of perspex will be used on the bottom.
is there a way i can send you a couple of photos as it might help others?
as i have two starlinks, my next project will be to move to a one cable connection. i could do this with a poe injector and splitter i believe, BUT i am considering using a cat 6 cable but only using four of the wires for TX and RX and the other four for power in/out. so it would be an rj45 with four RX and TX out of the router, then a connector allowing me to add power to the unused wires and then at the dishy end (internally( the cable would be split again, with only the rx and tx going into the dishy connector and the other two going to the power connections.
can you see any reasons why this wouldnt work? i am aware that it would cap the mbs to around 100mbs, but that is more than enough for my needs in my RV (motorhome in the UK)
@@misterb5216 Wow that is wonderful news. Well done. You can contact me using this address: redwood_watt.0k@icloud.com - if you are interested I would be keen to include you and/or your pictures, in a follow up video.
You are taking this hack to this next level. I will have to leave it to my followers on the viability of moving to 1 cable.
@@AUSY8 its up and running just using one cable !!! ive used the four data wires in the ethernet cable to provide data from the router and the other four wires to provide power.
it looks a bit rough at the moment but i will send photos so you can see the 'concept'. i now no longer need the power connections in the enclosure so will rejig it all when i get back (going over to Europe mainland for a few weeks in my motorhome)
im only getting around 60mps but thats more than enough for tv, laptop etc !
ZPDR-10V-S
Is the connector to dishy that the data (and original power) uses. You can now do the hack without cutting any cables ! You will need the pins of course, which are a pain in the arse to connect to the wires! Anyone have any tips to do this ??
After applying the same 12v input, can I use the original router?
If you mean the Starlink one, no I don't think so. You have to supply your own.
What is the wattage needed to run their system???? I would buy a power inverter for us, we have solar power.
Don't quote me, but I think out of the box Starlink consumes somewhere north of 75w on AC depending on settings and if it's booting.
around 150w peak so get a 300w capacity to prolong your inverter's life. pure sine wave inverter to be exact
So if you are using a 16 V to 12 V inverter what are you saving?
A whole lot of watts. Also the inverter may out be needed if your car/rv etc has a true 12v. Tesla output 15v-16v from the cig. lighter
Also you don’t need a POE injector
12:21 It will be on Barney’s head actually ☹️
Let's hope not. Barney only has a small head, he needs every little bit of it :)
I have a 48v RV battery from Volta, which powers my inverter to output 110v, then the Starlink power supply converts to 48v, then the dishy converts back to 12v. Wtf
Wtf indeed. A few too many conversions there.
This method is better than 12 to 48 volts
It is, but it requires more hacking of your dish.
Saludos amigo
Greetings back to you :)
im sorry, your names telstra?!
Toaster
WHY IS UR HEAD SOO BIG
because I store a lot of info in it :)