UPDATE: After 6 months are Starlink flat mount failed us. It got condensation inside and damaged the unit. Here’s a link to the video: ruclips.net/video/l4E2QKpdBl0/видео.htmlsi=IBckg4K5pboVKcyj Original Comment: Thanks for watching the video!!! We really appreciate it! I will not make the “bits / bytes” mistake again haha Also here's some more info regarding how the Starlink is performing on our Instagram reel: instagram.com/reel/Cwh_qb-o4h6/ For those who think it’s stupid to mount it flat, here’s a link describing how a phased array antenna (this is a phased array dish) wifiranger.com/how-does-starlink-work/#:~:text=As%20a%20satellite%20moves%20across,uses%20a%20%E2%80%9Cphased%20array.%E2%80%9D
Only reason I can see to tilt the antenna, is to let rain fall off. The antenna will definitely lose signal strength with any water pooling on the top, but it is flat so there wont be much.
I had a strong suspicion this was a bad idea and then saw this as the first comment.. thanks for being honest and telling people it’s not a great idea.
@@baliwski A desiccant would have extended the life some, but the question is how did the moisture get in to the housing in the first place. If it was because it had been raining for the 3 days during the assembly, then a desiccant pack may have been enough. If it was related to the material the housing was made of, how permiable it is, and whether there is barometric pressure change air exchanges happening that allowed the moisture in after a good (and dry) seal up, you would need to have a way to periodically replace the desiccant or have a way to heat dry it, venting the released moisture out of the housing. The comment that the housing is 3d printed doesn't give me a good feel for the housing being water tight. The Plexiglass lid very well may be, and the rubber gasket, and the glue may all have been good, but having done 3d printing for the past decade, I have a healthy respect for water's ability to infiltrate prints.
It's not a "little magnet" it's a ferrite which can improve performance in certain EMI "noisy" environments and/or reduce electromagnetic emissions of the device to bring it in compliance with FCC rules.
Great, great, informative video without "over-gabbing" or becoming redundant. Hope a lot of vanlifers get this info. I'm in a cabin in eastern Arizona on the side of a mountain, off-off grid and only have "2 bar" cell service, about 3 or 4 hours a day. Having too many issues with 110 volt so this 12 volt solution is a win win. Thank you and travel safe.
You made me comfortable in performing my own project like this to put on my atv and snowmobile when I’m out there traveling between communities in the Arctic, thanks dude. You’re the man!
I'm curious how the metal roof rack there would impact the transmission pattern of dishy. also being off axis could be a slight issue but they use a phase array system anyway, with out the motors moving the dish it's going to be Tx'ing off to a sat at totally the wrong angle. Super cool project, Thanks for sharing bud
Have a look at the Mikrotik Hex Poe router. Runs on DC, can output 48v via the built in POE at/af ports. So you can do away with the 12/24v converter and the injector and end up with a much better router to boot.
@@JasonParkers Damn your correct, for some reason I thought they had wireless in the hex series. I normally have a AP attached so didn't really think about it.
The little rubber thingy (ferrite bead) stops interference from magnetic fields in the cable if I am not mistaken. There is also a channel called everlanders on RUclips who have also mounted their starlink on their vehicle.
Correct. Normally, ferrite coils “choke” common mode current from coming down the coaxial cable between the antenna and receiver. There are several YT videos on the subject covered by Amateur radio operators that are familiar with antenna theory.
Didn't want to cut the cords so I never went to 12 to 48 volt conversion route. Your video was really good news for me and I've ordered all the components. Thank you. The poe injector however is going to take a month to get here, apparently they're on backorder (2/5/24)
I’m running the same 12v setup and router and I can tell you I hate it. I’m constantly having issue getting connected. I’ve played with boot order and timing and it just sucks. When I’ need it to work I just plug in the original setup….having said that I power it off a 24v to 115v 600w inverter. One day hopefully I get it sorted….12v saves me about 3% of power overnight vs the 24v inverter. Thanks for the video.😊
An informative video. Since we normally park under a ton of trees I am interested in just converting my Gen 2 dishy to 12vdc. Thanks for listing the necessary components to do that conversion.
Having just tested my Starlink in an off-grid location in Nevada for 10 days with nights down to single digits, I will be doing the power conversion. I installed only a 3000wh battery out of 6000wh for the testing. I see a huge advantage in not having to use the inverters. The only thing I would have changed is your flat mount; I would have the option to tilt it. I see some do this with the solar panels as well. I will have to play with the snow melt settings
The first person that pronounced WiFi correctly. wi-fee is the correct prononunciation as it comes from Wireless (wi sound) fidelity (fee sound). Nice.
Not actually the case. From Wikipedia below (the td;lr; version) (Encyclopedia Britannica & Oxford dictionary also have references. The Cambridge dictionary gets it wrong...) "The name Wi-Fi, commercially used was coined by the brand-consulting firm Interbrand. The Wi-Fi Alliance had hired Interbrand to create a name that was "a little catchier than 'IEEE 802.11b Direct Sequence'." According to Phil Belanger, a founding member of the Wi-Fi Alliance, the term Wi-Fi was chosen from a list of ten names that Interbrand proposed. Interbrand also created the Wi-Fi logo. The yin-yang Wi-Fi logo indicates the certification of a product for interoperability. The name Wi-Fi is not short-form for 'Wireless Fidelity',[34] although the Wi-Fi Alliance did use the advertising slogan "The Standard for Wireless Fidelity" for a short time after the brand name was created...
I would be more suspicious of the 48v booster being the cause of the lower speed. I believe the one you used creates a lot of "noise" and interferes with the Ethernet. At least that's what I'm thinking for my conversion so I'm switching to a cleaner 48v booster.
10 месяцев назад
@@dkb4x4 hi, what booster did you get in the end? Are you happy with your setup?
3 amps thats a lot for somethign that will be on 24/7 ish IMO. I would be tapping into that starlink router it will have a AC to DC board dropping it down to the voltages required it will save a huge mess of POE injectors and a router keeping the setup clean. I'm willing to bet someone has already modded the router for this application. Honestly at 3A a small 50W cheap inverter would have been similar. Also that ferrite core plays a big part in keeping noise / interference down I wouldn't have smashed that off the cable you can buy clip on ones to replace it I would. Nice install the cable glands look cool I will check them out and hopefully you look into alternative ways to get a more clean setup.
Converting AC to DC will always be more inefficient than converting 12Vdc to 48vdc for POE. The CAT6 cable to dish is shielded so interference is negligible. I didn't bother replacing the ferrite bead.
The Mbps means Megabits Per Second, for Megabytes Per Second you need to take the value speed-test shows you and divide it by 8, for example, your 20Mbps is 2.5MB/s and the 170-ish is 21.25MB/s.
Working in IT people do this all the time. You know how many times I hear gigabytes or megabytes per second instead of megabits or gigabits per second. So maybe that is why it is not confusing to me but the fact he was consistent when talking should have easily clued you in to megabits and not megabytes. Kind of like when you are reading and see their, there, and they’re used wrong it’s easy to see which one they should have used. Not a big deal especially since you can clearly see megabits on the screen.
@@Braddeman I am quite aware of that, biggest issue here in my country ISPs call it Megabytes or Mega, without specifying the exact type abit misleading.
I wonder if the 12v to 48v converter is significantly more efficient than a good 12v to 120v inverter. Note the heat sink fins on your converter to dissipate wasted energy.
Great video man, planning to work while traveling with my bike through South America and pulling energy from a small battery is crazy so power consumption is a big deal, will test it and let you know how that works out.
Will be interested to see if with repeated heating and cooling and rain will reveal humidity making its way into the housing and condensing on the circuit board and rendering it non-functional! Please post an update after a year of use!
@@41Atatsiakonly if you have a router with a chip in it to be able to bring in an 4.5 ghz line off of cat 6E guarantee that router is a 1ghz router with 100mbs max
My first thought would have been that if it acts like a satellite dish, then it would need to be angled just like the motorised stand that moves the dish to locate and lock on to the signal. The speed that it is giving is much slower as it's always horizontal and not directly connected to the starlink LEO
Mounting it on my roof would not be my choice, same as my solar... that decision means you must always park in open sky AKA direct sun. Keeping it portable and easily stowed means you can park in the shade where possible and set the dish remotely where it gets signal. Question... since you are not using the starlink router, does the starlink app no longer work as well? To see connection/obstruction and network throughput / latency tracking?
The Everlanders did this about 3 months ago, a bit more involved, I think they also got the power draw down a little. Let's hope Starlink are watching and consider making a version that's more appropriate for mobile use without costing a fortune...
I was thinking of getting that adapter. Good to know it works. What sort of upload speeds do you get? I need at least about 7mps for video conferences.
Hi, Ladi here. Great idea to do this! What speeds were you able to get on regular basis? I'm curious how well it works when flat mounted. It's motorized and finds the best angle.
Hola buenas tardes amigo, me encantó tu video y necesito de tu ayuda, el mío lo quiero fijar en una base en el techo de mi casa, pero quiero poner un tornillo por debajo del botón para quitarlo de la base, la pregunta es si por debajo de ese botón que extrae la antena no hay algún chip o cable que pueda llegar a dañar
Wasn't going to comment until 8/1... but that was before I knew you were planning a networking/engineering vlog! 🤣 Satellite Dish, wireless routers, WAN, LAN, ethernet cables, RJ45 connectors... all good stuff in the tech world...👍 Voiding the warranty was a nice touch... 👍👍 Enjoyed watching the process... 👀 Enough kudos... back to work 😅... July 🧨is almost upon us...
omt het dat op het wit schema de gele en de zwarte kabels naar de poe gaan en de rode en zwarte naar de batterij en op je tafel gaan de beide kleuren andersom gemonteerd?en kIk heb
Great dishy modification. The mounting effort not so much. First video I have watched that explains a direct 12V dishy mod. I wish you had shown more detail but I suppose it's documented on Oleg's page.
@@TheGamingForLife1 you miss the point. You do not have "megabytes per second" download. You have mega BITS per second download. That's 8 times slower than you stated. It's still somewhat fast but nowhere near as fast as you stated.
@@markphillips8019I’m working in IT and I’m not dotting the I‘s and slashing the T’s as you! The point is the comparison to his internet connection from home! It’s the same as the electricians get mad if u mix up kWh and kW as well kwh and kw…. Etc. In German it’s just called Klugscheisser….. Consider, he is not an electrician nor IT guy and be thankful he is doing the effort to show how he did it! 😊
how is that a stationary dish can get the best reception when the app rotates the dish correctly? do you have keep moving the van according to the app before you finally park?
So now that the dish can't move and locate a satellite and it's just laying flat on the roof of your van that must give you a much weaker signal I didn't even think that this would work without it being able to follow the satellite?
Have you worked out the Ah consumption difference between your modified setup and using the original router with something like a 150W Pure Sine inverter?
This is awesome. I love how sleek the setup is. Can Starlink support a "smart home" setup in a van? Can you easily stay connected 24/7 if you have power?
Super nice install, looks great! Does the plexiglass cover not interfere with the signal from the dishy? Would love to see a follow up speedtest once you get it permanently installed and running!
@@WillBilly. If it is reducing the speed and increasing latency then it does interfere with the dishy, just would like to see a before/after speedtest to see how badly it gets reduced due to the cover.
That was a very informative Video. Awesome job. I need the Star Link for my Overlander DIY Camper i am building so i can work from anywhere as well as you guys. Has the Star Link been working to your expectations?? Tha k you for the video.
Very well done, i will shamelessly copy, we do have a cellular internet system from Insty Connect and looks like I might be able to use my existing router. Any data on downland/upload speeds on the flat mount vs tilted?
I wonder if it was still work even with the motor and everything in tact . For example, not even cutting into the dish but everything after where the type c plugs into the POE and everything else 12 V and the 48 converter can power the motor inside the dish. I’m wondering if it will work
Nice video, a few months ago I used a multi tool and it cut very clean…. I made my own mount on the roof in the same spot! I had a little mini inverter that plugs in a cigarette lighter power so I don’t have to turn on the main inverter…..problem was here in nj speeds were getting so slow and prices went up I paused the service and got the t-mobile home internet for $50 a month and getting so much faster speed…. I may have to turn Starlink back on when I travel in the fall…
Love it!! I’m planning on getting t-mobile after the summer! Heard great things about it but it won’t work in Canada. It’s definitely the move for domestic eastern states!
Plexiglass is adding attenuation of the signal so the system become more sensitive to the weather conditions unfortunately. I assume it will be good to make a frame around the dish front and seal it around. Also the connection is under the question as soon as the mobile setup means vibration need to secure it additionaly. IMHO
The problem with putting it on the roof is you can’t park in the shade in the summer. Good thing to do would make it so you can still easily pull it from the roof and move it. Just a thought though.
I read through and didn’t see this question- The roam dish has the motor in it for calibration and satellite optimization. Does doing this throw a code ever or how does it affect the operation of the system since the motor has been removed?
But the Stand has 3 holes you could of Mounted Direct to the top of the Van? unless that isn't a good idea? gives you the Flexibility of changing the angle and suchlike?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE: After 6 months are Starlink flat mount failed us. It got condensation inside and damaged the unit.
Here’s a link to the video: ruclips.net/video/l4E2QKpdBl0/видео.htmlsi=IBckg4K5pboVKcyj
Original Comment:
Thanks for watching the video!!! We really appreciate it! I will not make the “bits / bytes” mistake again haha
Also here's some more info regarding how the Starlink is performing on our Instagram reel: instagram.com/reel/Cwh_qb-o4h6/
For those who think it’s stupid to mount it flat, here’s a link describing how a phased array antenna (this is a phased array dish) wifiranger.com/how-does-starlink-work/#:~:text=As%20a%20satellite%20moves%20across,uses%20a%20%E2%80%9Cphased%20array.%E2%80%9D
Only reason I can see to tilt the antenna, is to let rain fall off. The antenna will definitely lose signal strength with any water pooling on the top, but it is flat so there wont be much.
I had a strong suspicion this was a bad idea and then saw this as the first comment.. thanks for being honest and telling people it’s not a great idea.
Would a desiccant have helped? Also how did you convert the cable to ethernet? Is that the adapter that can be purchased from starlink?
@@baliwski A desiccant would have extended the life some, but the question is how did the moisture get in to the housing in the first place. If it was because it had been raining for the 3 days during the assembly, then a desiccant pack may have been enough. If it was related to the material the housing was made of, how permiable it is, and whether there is barometric pressure change air exchanges happening that allowed the moisture in after a good (and dry) seal up, you would need to have a way to periodically replace the desiccant or have a way to heat dry it, venting the released moisture out of the housing. The comment that the housing is 3d printed doesn't give me a good feel for the housing being water tight. The Plexiglass lid very well may be, and the rubber gasket, and the glue may all have been good, but having done 3d printing for the past decade, I have a healthy respect for water's ability to infiltrate prints.
Reason: your destruction of rubber and magnets = the cable is affected by external interference
It's not a "little magnet" it's a ferrite which can improve performance in certain EMI "noisy" environments and/or reduce electromagnetic emissions of the device to bring it in compliance with FCC rules.
Great, great, informative video without "over-gabbing" or becoming redundant. Hope a lot of vanlifers get this info. I'm in a cabin in eastern Arizona on the side of a mountain, off-off grid and only have "2 bar" cell service, about 3 or 4 hours a day. Having too many issues with 110 volt so this 12 volt solution is a win win.
Thank you and travel safe.
You made me comfortable in performing my own project like this to put on my atv and snowmobile when I’m out there traveling between communities in the Arctic, thanks dude. You’re the man!
you got it! Sounds like you live in a gnarly area!
DON'T DO THE MODIFICATION U WILL REGRET IT !!!!!!!
@@jameskim62how is that?
Really good assembly, you could say it's even better than the official option since it's 12 volts
I'm curious how the metal roof rack there would impact the transmission pattern of dishy. also being off axis could be a slight issue but they use a phase array system anyway, with out the motors moving the dish it's going to be Tx'ing off to a sat at totally the wrong angle. Super cool project, Thanks for sharing bud
Have a look at the Mikrotik Hex Poe router. Runs on DC, can output 48v via the built in POE at/af ports. So you can do away with the 12/24v converter and the injector and end up with a much better router to boot.
But that's not wireless, right?
@@JasonParkers Damn your correct, for some reason I thought they had wireless in the hex series. I normally have a AP attached so didn't really think about it.
The little rubber thingy (ferrite bead) stops interference from magnetic fields in the cable if I am not mistaken.
There is also a channel called everlanders on RUclips who have also mounted their starlink on their vehicle.
Correct. Normally, ferrite coils “choke” common mode current from coming down the coaxial cable between the antenna and receiver.
There are several YT videos on the subject covered by Amateur radio operators that are familiar with antenna theory.
love how clean the install is
Thank you! We’re pumped how it turned out!
Didn't want to cut the cords so I never went to 12 to 48 volt conversion route. Your video was really good news for me and I've ordered all the components. Thank you. The poe injector however is going to take a month to get here, apparently they're on backorder (2/5/24)
Excellent video.
Thanks Patrick!!!
I’m running the same 12v setup and router and I can tell you I hate it. I’m constantly having issue getting connected. I’ve played with boot order and timing and it just sucks. When I’ need it to work I just plug in the original setup….having said that I power it off a 24v to 115v 600w inverter. One day hopefully I get it sorted….12v saves me about 3% of power overnight vs the 24v inverter. Thanks for the video.😊
An informative video. Since we normally park under a ton of trees I am interested in just converting my Gen 2 dishy to 12vdc. Thanks for listing the necessary components to do that conversion.
Having just tested my Starlink in an off-grid location in Nevada for 10 days with nights down to single digits, I will be doing the power conversion. I installed only a 3000wh battery out of 6000wh for the testing. I see a huge advantage in not having to use the inverters. The only thing I would have changed is your flat mount; I would have the option to tilt it. I see some do this with the solar panels as well. I will have to play with the snow melt settings
One word: Crushin’ It!
Great video 🤙🏼
Isn’t that 2 words? 😂
The first person that pronounced WiFi correctly. wi-fee is the correct prononunciation as it comes from Wireless (wi sound) fidelity (fee sound). Nice.
el guifi
Not actually the case. From Wikipedia below (the td;lr; version) (Encyclopedia Britannica & Oxford dictionary also have references. The Cambridge dictionary gets it wrong...)
"The name Wi-Fi, commercially used was coined by the brand-consulting firm Interbrand. The Wi-Fi Alliance had hired Interbrand to create a name that was "a little catchier than 'IEEE 802.11b Direct Sequence'." According to Phil Belanger, a founding member of the Wi-Fi Alliance, the term Wi-Fi was chosen from a list of ten names that Interbrand proposed. Interbrand also created the Wi-Fi logo. The yin-yang Wi-Fi logo indicates the certification of a product for interoperability.
The name Wi-Fi is not short-form for 'Wireless Fidelity',[34] although the Wi-Fi Alliance did use the advertising slogan "The Standard for Wireless Fidelity" for a short time after the brand name was created...
WiFuh
You should run it with the Starlink router and then your travel router to see if that’s reducing speed.
This as a network specialist was my thought. The starling router is most likely optimized for the dish.
Couldn't agree more, a comparison between both, is the only way to know for sure!
I curious about this as well
I would be more suspicious of the 48v booster being the cause of the lower speed. I believe the one you used creates a lot of "noise" and interferes with the Ethernet. At least that's what I'm thinking for my conversion so I'm switching to a cleaner 48v booster.
@@dkb4x4 hi, what booster did you get in the end? Are you happy with your setup?
Your "magnet" is an EMI ferrite filter. Pickup a split snap on type if you get noise glitchy service from noisy power supplies.
I appreciate that tip
ngl, when you said Wifi satelite at like 0:50 you trigered my flight or fight responds, that could not have been more wrong xD
3 amps thats a lot for somethign that will be on 24/7 ish IMO. I would be tapping into that starlink router it will have a AC to DC board dropping it down to the voltages required it will save a huge mess of POE injectors and a router keeping the setup clean. I'm willing to bet someone has already modded the router for this application. Honestly at 3A a small 50W cheap inverter would have been similar. Also that ferrite core plays a big part in keeping noise / interference down I wouldn't have smashed that off the cable you can buy clip on ones to replace it I would. Nice install the cable glands look cool I will check them out and hopefully you look into alternative ways to get a more clean setup.
Converting AC to DC will always be more inefficient than converting 12Vdc to 48vdc for POE.
The CAT6 cable to dish is shielded so interference is negligible. I didn't bother replacing the ferrite bead.
Hey dude... good on you. Pleased that you had courage to do that. Not many would. And you made it look easy
The Mbps means Megabits Per Second, for Megabytes Per Second you need to take the value speed-test shows you and divide it by 8, for example, your 20Mbps is 2.5MB/s and the 170-ish is 21.25MB/s.
thank you for pointing that out. It was indeed confusing him talking about bytes and while his screen is showing the values in bits.
Working in IT people do this all the time. You know how many times I hear gigabytes or megabytes per second instead of megabits or gigabits per second. So maybe that is why it is not confusing to me but the fact he was consistent when talking should have easily clued you in to megabits and not megabytes. Kind of like when you are reading and see their, there, and they’re used wrong it’s easy to see which one they should have used. Not a big deal especially since you can clearly see megabits on the screen.
@@Braddeman I am quite aware of that, biggest issue here in my country ISPs call it Megabytes or Mega, without specifying the exact type abit misleading.
Really Cool Idea and Implementation of said Idea !
I wonder if the 12v to 48v converter is significantly more efficient than a good 12v to 120v inverter. Note the heat sink fins on your converter to dissipate wasted energy.
This was an awesome video with some components I had not seen yet, thank you.
You got it thanks for watching!!!
Nice build, looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Great video man, planning to work while traveling with my bike through South America and pulling energy from a small battery is crazy so power consumption is a big deal, will test it and let you know how that works out.
Will be interested to see if with repeated heating and cooling and rain will reveal humidity making its way into the housing and condensing on the circuit board and rendering it non-functional!
Please post an update after a year of use!
Have you noticed a reduction in performance by being horizontal all of the time?
I would be more worried about that travel access point, it looks very cheap and it might be only 2.4ghz wifi so that's why he got such a low speed.
@@25566 2.4ghz is more than enough for this. I don't think starlink would bother with a motorized stand unless it improved performance.
2.4 ghz can produce 450 mbps, relax.
@@41Atatsiakonly if you have a router with a chip in it to be able to bring in an 4.5 ghz line off of cat 6E guarantee that router is a 1ghz router with 100mbs max
My first thought would have been that if it acts like a satellite dish, then it would need to be angled just like the motorised stand that moves the dish to locate and lock on to the signal. The speed that it is giving is much slower as it's always horizontal and not directly connected to the starlink LEO
How does it rotate to find the satieties if it is fixed in one position?
It doesn’t. It’s permanently compromised now.
Mounting it on my roof would not be my choice, same as my solar... that decision means you must always park in open sky AKA direct sun. Keeping it portable and easily stowed means you can park in the shade where possible and set the dish remotely where it gets signal.
Question... since you are not using the starlink router, does the starlink app no longer work as well? To see connection/obstruction and network throughput / latency tracking?
The dishes are not meant to articulate and change its dish position?
Flat mount worked as the same?
I love the visual details.
Great job & clean.
Thank you Jeff!
The Everlanders did this about 3 months ago, a bit more involved, I think they also got the power draw down a little. Let's hope Starlink are watching and consider making a version that's more appropriate for mobile use without costing a fortune...
they already have a flat mount version, but it's $$$
They do have a mobile solution, but want to charge you a fortune. Dude has to go live on Mars, and that is not cheap.
I was thinking of getting that adapter. Good to know it works. What sort of upload speeds do you get? I need at least about 7mps for video conferences.
Thanks for the content. Cheers from OZ
That’s is awesome wish we could have done it before our van was fully built lol
One benefit to being super delayed on the van haha
Hi, Ladi here. Great idea to do this! What speeds were you able to get on regular basis? I'm curious how well it works when flat mounted. It's motorized and finds the best angle.
It worked find when we were in Canada! I saw like 40-70mbps
Man you are a genius, thanks!
well done...best walk through i have watched
This answers my question over whether to get a Mini. Which dish version are you working on? Gen3?
Hola buenas tardes amigo, me encantó tu video y necesito de tu ayuda, el mío lo quiero fijar en una base en el techo de mi casa, pero quiero poner un tornillo por debajo del botón para quitarlo de la base, la pregunta es si por debajo de ese botón que extrae la antena no hay algún chip o cable que pueda llegar a dañar
Can you advise make and model details on the RV flat unit u used to mount the cut down Starlink antenna....
Thanx
Wish i could tell you then that we will have the mini now.
Wasn't going to comment until 8/1... but that was before I knew you were planning a networking/engineering vlog! 🤣
Satellite Dish, wireless routers, WAN, LAN, ethernet cables, RJ45 connectors... all good stuff in the tech world...👍
Voiding the warranty was a nice touch... 👍👍
Enjoyed watching the process... 👀
Enough kudos... back to work 😅... July 🧨is almost upon us...
This little project was really fun, I enjoyed it! Lot of work to do in July!!!! Can't wait to start traveling again
omt het dat op het wit schema de gele en de zwarte kabels naar de poe gaan en de rode en zwarte naar de batterij en op je tafel gaan de beide kleuren andersom gemonteerd?en kIk heb
Great video. Do you have to configure the new router before using it, like putting in a password and such? Thanks.
Great dishy modification. The mounting effort not so much. First video I have watched that explains a direct 12V dishy mod. I wish you had shown more detail but I suppose it's documented on Oleg's page.
Not "Mega Bytes" but Mega Bits per second. Your speed is 8 actually times slower than you stated.
You think 200 Mbps is slow?
@@TheGamingForLife1 you miss the point. You do not have "megabytes per second" download. You have mega BITS per second download. That's 8 times slower than you stated. It's still somewhat fast but nowhere near as fast as you stated.
😂 I think of us nerds knew what he meant but GJ on the lesson
I was thinking the same
@@markphillips8019I’m working in IT and I’m not dotting the I‘s and slashing the T’s as you!
The point is the comparison to his internet connection from home!
It’s the same as the electricians get mad if u mix up kWh and kW as well kwh and kw…. Etc.
In German it’s just called Klugscheisser…..
Consider, he is not an electrician nor IT guy and be thankful he is doing the effort to show how he did it!
😊
Thanks . I think Starlink should make a customized version of this dish for vans and motor homes.
They do. It's called Starlink In-motion. It's stupidly expensive, and still requires AC power.
do you notice any performance trade-off for flat mounted antenna versus the original motorized tilting antenna?
could someone help me understand how being flat works when the dish from factory has to use a motor to position itself im confused
Hey mike it’s because it’s a phased array antenna, just like the flat mount Starlink. 👍🏻
Donde consigue ese case? Salufos desde México
Do you have a link for the feed through you used on the roof? Thanks.
how is that a stationary dish can get the best reception when the app rotates the dish correctly? do you have keep moving the van according to the app before you finally park?
Hello, I live in the village and I use solar power, my Starlink modem gets very hot, what kind of inverter do you think I should use for Starlink?
How fast technology has change Starlink now has a mini dish that is a all in one, all you need is a 12V source.
Great video
Really interesting!
Thank you 😊
This same installation configuration, can I install it on a motorcycle using its own battery?
The gen3 will require no cutting since it''s flat?
So you can only.camp in open spaces?? What if you camp in thick bush with no sky view, mounting it is great but it limits your campimg??
Hey - Can you show how the switch powers the USB?
You can get a 12vdc Input Poe injector from tycon power 12 to 48 poe
Yes, but then you need to cut and re-crimp the Starlink CAT6 cables. Read the video title again.
Have you solved the issue of Wi-Fi calling not working with that router and Starlink?
do you think it work also good in holland and travel in europa
Will this run on a 12v 10amp circuit will snow mount disabled?
Great video as always 🙂 Just wish the mount wasn’t so expensive 😅
Internet police here.
Mbps = Mega BITS per second.
(Internet speed)
.
MBps = Mega BYTES per second
.
8 BITS = 1 BYTE
.
😉
Ooopsies!!! 😅
So now that the dish can't move and locate a satellite and it's just laying flat on the roof of your van that must give you a much weaker signal I didn't even think that this would work without it being able to follow the satellite?
It will, check out “phased array satellites”
Have you had issues with condensation at all ?
Mine stopped working
Have you worked out the Ah consumption difference between your modified setup and using the original router with something like a 150W Pure Sine inverter?
Nice job!
Friend one question, where i Can buy the kit for make it?
Shouldn’t the dish have its motors so it can move along with the satellites?
Tracking is not really required. The dish is phased. Google "Starlink In-motion"
with this setup do you still have to pay for starlink membership while your not using the starlink router
So it uses less power? How many watts tho?
If I wanted to use 12v power, wouldn't buying a pure sine wave inverter have been better?
Depends on the country is cheaper or expensive the service. I tested. In NY 150 dollars if i order for dominican republica is $50 crazy ah!?
This is awesome. I love how sleek the setup is. Can Starlink support a "smart home" setup in a van? Can you easily stay connected 24/7 if you have power?
Great work ! , is not a magnet is a ferrite bead.
What's the power draw on this. I remember the standard is meant to be 50-75W and the performance 110-150. Similar numbers running on 12v?
When mounted flat on the roof, the dish cannot align itself. Isn't that necessary?
Super nice install, looks great! Does the plexiglass cover not interfere with the signal from the dishy? Would love to see a follow up speedtest once you get it permanently installed and running!
dosnt interfere but greatly reduces speed and increases latency
@@WillBilly. If it is reducing the speed and increasing latency then it does interfere with the dishy, just would like to see a before/after speedtest to see how badly it gets reduced due to the cover.
@@ThaMonkeyClaw as in the plexiglass dosnt effect it but the stationary flat mounting does. I have one, if i have a slow week ill run some tests.
That was a very informative Video. Awesome job. I need the Star Link for my Overlander DIY Camper i am building so i can work from anywhere as well as you guys. Has the Star Link been working to your expectations?? Tha k you for the video.
Thank you! Yes we've been using it non stop in Newfoundland, haven't turned it off in over a week,. Works when driving too
Hi. Great video! I am curious about what is the other white device, right besides the Starlink antenna in the roof of the van? Cheers.
Thanks! It’s a MaxxFan! (Roof vent fan)
@@MathersOnTheMap oh! Thanks!
Really good
Very well done, i will shamelessly copy, we do have a cellular internet system from Insty Connect and looks like I might be able to use my existing router. Any data on downland/upload speeds on the flat mount vs tilted?
Should work with any router you’ll be good 👌🏻 I haven’t really tested it to be honest
Why you not disconnected cable???
I wonder if it was still work even with the motor and everything in tact . For example, not even cutting into the dish but everything after where the type c plugs into the POE and everything else 12 V and the 48 converter can power the motor inside the dish. I’m wondering if it will work
Yes it would 👌🏻👍🏻
What is the black component between the switch and the pocket router? Just a powered USB-C port?
Yup! Just a usb charger
Nice video, a few months ago I used a multi tool and it cut very clean….
I made my own mount on the roof in the same spot! I had a little mini inverter that plugs in a cigarette lighter power so I don’t have to turn on the main inverter…..problem was here in nj speeds were getting so slow and prices went up I paused the service and got the t-mobile home internet for $50 a month and getting so much faster speed….
I may have to turn Starlink back on when I travel in the fall…
Love it!! I’m planning on getting t-mobile after the summer! Heard great things about it but it won’t work in Canada. It’s definitely the move for domestic eastern states!
@@MathersOnTheMap yes and when I go somewhere I can always turn Starlink back on …
That’s the move!
Plexiglass is adding attenuation of the signal so the system become more sensitive to the weather conditions unfortunately. I assume it will be good to make a frame around the dish front and seal it around. Also the connection is under the question as soon as the mobile setup means vibration need to secure it additionaly. IMHO
wow that looks very goood
Great vid! Is it possible to connect the 12v-48v component to a 12v cigarette lighter connection?
thanks! Yes it would as long as the cigarette lighter can handle 12 amps (if you use the snow melt feature)
I thought it needed to orientate itself towards the satellites? Doesn't this method kill that off?
The problem with putting it on the roof is you can’t park in the shade in the summer. Good thing to do would make it so you can still easily pull it from the roof and move it. Just a thought though.
I read through and didn’t see this question-
The roam dish has the motor in it for calibration and satellite optimization.
Does doing this throw a code ever or how does it affect the operation of the system since the motor has been removed?
Doesn’t through any errors and it works fine flat we have no complaints besides if it rains heavy then it sucks
@@MathersOnTheMap thank you for the reply! That was my only concern before attempting this!
@@andrewlongronno problem, check us out on instagram for a quicker response if ya have other questions 👍🏻
Why is it plugged in? At the beginning @3:57
But the Stand has 3 holes you could of Mounted Direct to the top of the Van? unless that isn't a good idea? gives you the Flexibility of changing the angle and suchlike?