Thank you for sharing your thoughts and insights about this conversion! Your follow-up "Is it worth it" was particularly helpful. We are RVers in the USA and are frequently outside cellular networks (even with 3 different carriers). We have plenty of off-grid power (800W solar/400AH LFP) but amps saved is amps available! I especially enjoyed your "Is it worth it" video with the giraffes in the distance and the elephants coming by your camp!
I just wanted to express my Tks for your video. I watched it several times and bought the larger power supply that you recommended with the fan, hooked it all up with my new Starlink gen 3 to our Rv, powered mainly by solar and it working perfectly. FYI, we are located in colorado with no cell service. The WiFi calling feature of the iPhones allows us to make calls in addition to internet access. The RV has four 200 watt 24vdc panels (series and parallel) hooked thru a Victron down to 12vdc to two 200 amp hour lithium batteries in parallel. Now we need to see how much of our solar capacity it will take to run it. But again many Tks for your help. I am a subscriber.
Nicely done! My biggest issue with taking my Starlink with me in my van is everyone at home not having internet. I sure don’t want to subscribe twice. :)
🙂 thanks Scott. Yeah, that dish will stay on my vehicle and I will only activate it when on the road. I would be in deep shit if I left for a few weeks and took the internet with me!
@@ScottBalkum not sure if you are based in the USA but we have T-Mobile Home Internet for $60/month (US). I have a few things requiring internet 24/7 and T-Mobile seems to fill the need when Starlink is on the road.
Well done! Waiting for my gen3. Love how neat the starmount is but at nearly 900usd for the mount and 12v conversion your setup makes makes a lot more sense.
One thing to keep in my is that you want to find a boost converter that is constant current constant voltage.(cc cv) I am unsure if the version you are using is like that. The reason is that if you are running the input side on a battery that might change voltage (like a vehicle battery) you want to make sure the output on your converter doesn’t fluctuate with the change of voltage level in the battery
I purchased the smaller (sealed) converter. It worked a few times but then the SL router would reboot. I would test the output and it seemed it was not outputting 57 volts. I ordered the 1500W converter so I can have a bit more control.
Really nice solution there. Tell me that satisfying 3D printed snap into position didn't happen first try or I'll be sad... usually takes me a few iterations.
I’m slowly getting to grips with STARLINK for our travels. Someone mentioned that I would not be able to buy one in the UK as it would have to be ‘Continent friendly’ for use in Southern Africa ? . And then what package would I subscribe to (apparently’ROAMING’ is the one , and is that possible through payment from a SA bank. Sorry for all the questions 😂🙌
You can buy one in the UK and use it in Africa, but you have to wait up to 120 days to transfer it from a UK account to an African account (you can use it in the interim on a UK Global Roam account, but that will be expensive). Once you move the kit to an African account you will probably use it on a Regional Roam that covers all of Africa 👍. Simplest option is to buy in Africa if you can.
Most 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel connectors should work, although the ones I had lying around were a bit large and I had to trim them. Try this: amzn.to/46bDsTA
Thank you so much for this video, I have question, should I add capacitor to remediate any fluctuation even though I see few of them already in there? TIA
Hi, thanks for this info. I did however get a different Setup Transformer... It kind of worked but now knowing about the output wattage, I can see why might is flaky. Anyways, I did not have access to a 3d printer. Are you by chance selling these cases? If so, I'd be interested in 1.
@@RetroMusicStudio2023 generally, devices limit the current themselves. For example the sockets in your house can supply a decent amount of current but each appliance just uses what it needs 👍. Voltage on the other hand usually needs to match what the device requires
Assuming lithium batteries, you have 150x13=1950Wh total. If you run your batteries down to 20% you have 1950x0.8=1560Wh available. Starlink Gen 3 plus inverter will pull about 60W. 1560/60=26 hours.
Nice one. A few people have knocked the idea and said "you get what you pay for". Saying "they over heat and aren't safe". Good to hear yours is fine. Plus mine will have a fan so I reckon it'll be fine too. We'll see
@@phoenixstone4920 yeah. I added a fan to mine as well to be safe since it is in a rather confined space. It does not seem to get too hot. I usually only use the starlink for a few hours at a time to save power though.
Do you by chance get spikes in Watts? I have a different step up transformer and have noticed once all is booted up, my watts will spike to 120w for a few seconds then settle back to 50ish. Not sure why I'm getting these spikes. I did however purchase the 1200w transformer you recommend and will test that.
@@MovingPicturesAfrica ok I have a little 600w PS and my system works fine with that. Just purchased a Oupes Mega 3 and it trips the current after about 10 mins. Not sure why but I think it has to do with the high watt spikes. Again I'm going to try the transformer you have and see if it works better.
@@MovingPicturesAfricawill definitely be within spec for gen 3 dish. What is your plan for car installation? Will you use a relay or switch? All you need to power a gen 2 is a PoE splitter and output at 48v from the DC booster + of course a router for WiFi.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video as well as creating a cover for the power supply.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and insights about this conversion! Your follow-up "Is it worth it" was particularly helpful. We are RVers in the USA and are frequently outside cellular networks (even with 3 different carriers). We have plenty of off-grid power (800W solar/400AH LFP) but amps saved is amps available!
I especially enjoyed your "Is it worth it" video with the giraffes in the distance and the elephants coming by your camp!
@@2bz2ranch45 glad you found the videos helpful
I just wanted to express my Tks for your video. I watched it several times and bought the larger power supply that you recommended with the fan, hooked it all up with my new Starlink gen 3 to our Rv, powered mainly by solar and it working perfectly. FYI, we are located in colorado with no cell service. The WiFi calling feature of the iPhones allows us to make calls in addition to internet access. The RV has four 200 watt 24vdc panels (series and parallel) hooked thru a Victron down to 12vdc to two 200 amp hour lithium batteries in parallel. Now we need to see how much of our solar capacity it will take to run it. But again many Tks for your help. I am a subscriber.
My pleasure. Glad you found it useful
Thank you for this vid.
Purchased the converter with the fan.
Your stl printed nice and fitted the converter with no problem.
Thanks again.
Fantastic!
Thanks Rob. Still waiting for my starmount kit for the Gen 3. Will,keep you posted via 4x4community
👍 shout if you have any questions
Nicely done! My biggest issue with taking my Starlink with me in my van is everyone at home not having internet. I sure don’t want to subscribe twice. :)
🙂 thanks Scott. Yeah, that dish will stay on my vehicle and I will only activate it when on the road. I would be in deep shit if I left for a few weeks and took the internet with me!
@@MovingPicturesAfrica Heh, yea, probably $599 well spent.
@@ScottBalkum not sure if you are based in the USA but we have T-Mobile Home Internet for $60/month (US). I have a few things requiring internet 24/7 and T-Mobile seems to fill the need when Starlink is on the road.
Well done! Waiting for my gen3. Love how neat the starmount is but at nearly 900usd for the mount and 12v conversion your setup makes makes a lot more sense.
Thanks Johan! Also check out Trio Flat Mount. Link in description. They have a cheaper mount and 12V option 👍
Wow external power supply for gen 3 is really nice for this setup. Hardwiring it before seemed like a huge pain!
Yes. It's really easy.
One thing to keep in my is that you want to find a boost converter that is constant current constant voltage.(cc cv) I am unsure if the version you are using is like that. The reason is that if you are running the input side on a battery that might change voltage (like a vehicle battery) you want to make sure the output on your converter doesn’t fluctuate with the change of voltage level in the battery
Thanks. I have not noticed the output fluctuating. I checked and it was still 57v when running
I purchased the smaller (sealed) converter. It worked a few times but then the SL router would reboot. I would test the output and it seemed it was not outputting 57 volts. I ordered the 1500W converter so I can have a bit more control.
Thanks for letting me know 🙏. I will remove the link if it does not work perfectly.
Really nice solution there. Tell me that satisfying 3D printed snap into position didn't happen first try or I'll be sad... usually takes me a few iterations.
😂 it was version 5
I’m slowly getting to grips with STARLINK for our travels. Someone mentioned that I would not be able to buy one in the UK as it would have to be ‘Continent friendly’ for use in Southern Africa ? . And then what package would I subscribe to (apparently’ROAMING’ is the one , and is that possible through payment from a SA bank. Sorry for all the questions 😂🙌
You can buy one in the UK and use it in Africa, but you have to wait up to 120 days to transfer it from a UK account to an African account (you can use it in the interim on a UK Global Roam account, but that will be expensive). Once you move the kit to an African account you will probably use it on a Regional Roam that covers all of Africa 👍. Simplest option is to buy in Africa if you can.
@@MovingPicturesAfrica fantastic….. thank you so much
Great video!! What awg wire did you use from the battery to the inverter? Thank you.
Thanks 🙏. I wish I could remember but I wired up my inverter ages ago.
@@MovingPicturesAfrica Thank you.
Nice! Really easy to follow up! Would be possible to power up the dish only directly? And then use another router? Cheers!
Thanks. Yes, I believe that's possible with a PoE injector
Great video, thanks! Ended up ordering the 1500w. Do you know if there is a way to measure when adjusting the low voltage cutout and current limiter?
I think if you want to set those you will need an adjustable voltage and current source.
@@MovingPicturesAfrica That makes sense ;)
Do you have a link for the barrel connector? Thanks.
Most 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel connectors should work, although the ones I had lying around were a bit large and I had to trim them. Try this: amzn.to/46bDsTA
Does the new RJ45 cable use standard T568B pinout?
I believe so. I used an off the shelf cable
@@MovingPicturesAfricathanks for the prompt response! Great video!
Why Starlink doesn't already offer a 12v system is beyond me.
Agreed
I need to know how much the input current to the boost converter in 12V ?
@@abbasoday7212 cant remember exactly but max is probably about 12A
@@MovingPicturesAfrica Thanks
Thank you so much for this video, I have question, should I add capacitor to remediate any fluctuation even though I see few of them already in there? TIA
I'm not an expert, but I think it's probably not necessary 👍
@@MovingPicturesAfrica thank you!
Hey, the bug is reacting to Japan, for example
Hi, thanks for this info. I did however get a different Setup Transformer... It kind of worked but now knowing about the output wattage, I can see why might is flaky. Anyways, I did not have access to a 3d printer. Are you by chance selling these cases? If so, I'd be interested in 1.
Sorry. I'm not selling. I'm sure there are companies that do 3d printing and ship you the print
@@MovingPicturesAfrica Roger that... Thanks
Did you tweak the current to match the required value for the router?
No, just the voltage. The router will draw as much current as it needs.
Thank you, I thought it was going to be fry if there was too much current input,so it's safe to use this.👌👍
@@RetroMusicStudio2023 generally, devices limit the current themselves. For example the sockets in your house can supply a decent amount of current but each appliance just uses what it needs 👍. Voltage on the other hand usually needs to match what the device requires
If I have two batteries that are combined 150 amp hours. Using a regular power inverter how many hours can I run starlink before the battery dies?
Assuming lithium batteries, you have 150x13=1950Wh total. If you run your batteries down to 20% you have 1950x0.8=1560Wh available. Starlink Gen 3 plus inverter will pull about 60W. 1560/60=26 hours.
How's it going 3 months on? Does it still work well? I just purchased the 1500w 30a version with the fan.
Working fine. But I don't use it all the time. I've used it for about 6 weeks total.
Nice one. A few people have knocked the idea and said "you get what you pay for". Saying "they over heat and aren't safe".
Good to hear yours is fine. Plus mine will have a fan so I reckon it'll be fine too. We'll see
@@phoenixstone4920 yeah. I added a fan to mine as well to be safe since it is in a rather confined space. It does not seem to get too hot. I usually only use the starlink for a few hours at a time to save power though.
Dc berapa volt starlink gen 3
What’s size fuse is needed for this setup?
IIRC I used a 20A fuse
Do you by chance get spikes in Watts? I have a different step up transformer and have noticed once all is booted up, my watts will spike to 120w for a few seconds then settle back to 50ish. Not sure why I'm getting these spikes. I did however purchase the 1200w transformer you recommend and will test that.
Yes the power draw fluctuates quite a lot. I think perhaps when it is looking for satellites it pulls more power, but I can't be sure about that
@@MovingPicturesAfrica ok I have a little 600w PS and my system works fine with that. Just purchased a Oupes Mega 3 and it trips the current after about 10 mins. Not sure why but I think it has to do with the high watt spikes. Again I'm going to try the transformer you have and see if it works better.
@@jsdiecast 👍 my one has been working great. I've used it in total for 6 weeks about 4 hours a day with no issues
@@MovingPicturesAfrica What are you using for a Power source?
@@jsdiecast dual battery in vehicle
Is he working with me in Asia and what kind of bug am I doing
كم الشتراك الشهري الجيل 3
Be careful of those DC boost converters. They lie about the current output. Luckily they mostly fail peacefully and dont take out other components.
Thanks. I'm only outputting ~2A, so I think I'm well within the specs even if they are exaggerated.
@@MovingPicturesAfricawill definitely be within spec for gen 3 dish.
What is your plan for car installation? Will you use a relay or switch?
All you need to power a gen 2 is a PoE splitter and output at 48v from the DC booster + of course a router for WiFi.
@@ZED-PV yeah I have used a relay and added a switch to the dash. I'll cover that in the next vid 👍
@@MovingPicturesAfrica awesome thank you! Killer setup you have!
What's a roother 😂
😂 row-ter to you
Just done this 12v conversion, not worth it you only save half an amp of all the wiring done. thanks anyway.
If you already have a pure sine wave inverter it may not be worth it.
@@MovingPicturesAfrica maybe not but you have to think, you are taking 110v and converting to 12v. There is a loss there. Why not use start with 12v.