Lovely to see father and son working technical problems out, i know you and your dad are super smart, i remember your dad works for the Univesity as a researcher. Nice to see you both share a moment.
The old hysterisis, having to go over or under a limit to acheave a change in a reluctant circuit or mechanism. The squelch on c.b radios has a similar property, to stop a chattering switching point. Recording on tape needs the over and under flux levels to overcome the reluctance of the oxide being magnitized. Something like that lol.
your the man dude.. always cool to see some professional diagnostics and repairs that we can do on the floor and at home. it's motivating and inspirational dude. keep it up! love the vids too man!
Factory techstream is like that too. You only see change on those PIDs during the active test feature. Kind of annoying when you compare to other manufacturers! Nice video. I really like that resistance check where you did that to all of them.
Good job testing them,I've found when Lexus or Toyota "same thing" trip those vvt codes,there is a reason,alot of times it could be phasers,cam,or needing a simple oil change,but 95% of the time the solenoid is wore out,good job.
I knew a guy that had a car with an oil leak. He had to add about .25 of a quart a week. He decided he did not need to do oil changes and only changed his oil filter. It wasn't long before his car started throwing VVT error codes. The solenoid was good and the screen was clear. So he changed the oil and filter and never had the VVT error code again. Even with a bad oil leak and having to add a lot of oil between oil changes the VVT system was affected by not performing a full oil change.
Looks to me like you actually demonstrated that the bank 1 solenoid doesn't reach 30 degrees or respond at the same rate as the replaced one. You found a failure before it started throwing codes. Time to replace that one too.
You're correct, these solenoids have a life span where it is recommended to replace them all when one starts to fail. This will improve fuel efficiency due to their better responsiveness. For this design, spark plugs are recommended if you don't know the history of the car since you will be removing the intake plenum most likely as they are under it for Bank 1.
Congratulations, another happy (special) customer! Glad the engine wasn't out of time for real though, it would have needed way more work and could have had bad consequences
So you used a Dorman, right ;) j/k. The problem with the bench voltage/amperage test you did is that they are not designed to stay 100% on for long lengths of time, they are duty cycled as we know. So 1 would expect as the coil heats up with 100% on time we'd see numbers change. That being said, given its location it doesn't surprise me at all that it eventually succumbed to heat failure.
p0015 on the lexus ! Perform an engine flush combined with a cleaning of the solenoids. I do an engine flush at every second oil change. Costs a little and saves a lot.
@21:44 or stated another way - 44% duty cycle is the amount of electrical energy required to overcome the mechanical inertia that is required for an instant response.
@@MrXyzasdf I don't have a single word for the list of opposing forces that I added, but none of them are proportional to acceleration, which inertia is. That's important, because it changes the expectation of how the valve responds to a moderate PWM input. Increased inertia leads to expectation that the valve responds slower than normal, but still responds and completes the movement with same PWM levels. Increased static friction leads to expectation that higher than normal PWM is required to overcome sticking (as in Ivan's case), while increase of diff pressure or opposing spring both require increase in PWM to finish the movement. Of these, inertia is the least fitting explanation of the symptoms -- it would require something in the system to become more massive.
@@Graham_Wideman There is more than one form of inertia. Pay closer attention to what Ivan is saying @21:44 This vehicle manufacturer has implemented a strategy of electrically pulsing the VVT solenoid valve at 44% duty cycle for its designed closed position to overcome 1. hysteresis of the magnetic coil and 2. the static inertia of the spring, otherwise the valve will respond slower for the intended designed goal. Please burn your NASA t-shirt and the stickers from your pickup truck.
@@MrXyzasdf "There is more than one form of inertia." Inertia is used vaguely in common speech, but in science and engineering it has a precise meaning since Newton defined it in 1687 in his Laws of Motion: Law 1 The Law of Inertia: acceleration = Force/mass and Law 2: momentum = mass x velocity. Effectively, Law 1 tells how to add to or subtract from the momentum that an object possesses per Law 2. So essentially "inertia" is synonymous with "momentum". "This vehicle manufacturer has implemented a strategy of electrically pulsing the VVT solenoid valve at 44% duty cycle". You mean the manufacturer is using plain old pulse-width modulation (PWM). "for its designed closed position to overcome 1. hysteresis of the magnetic coil " Not so. First, there's nothing special about 44%. That just happens to produce enough average current to overcome all the NON-inertial forces and move the valve in this unit. Other units are probably similar, but not identical. The circuit does not depend on 44% exactly because the system also measures the VVT result and can increase or decrease the PWM as needed to set the VVT to variable amounts of advance by setting the valve to intermediate positions. The system also does not depend on pulsing to overcome anything, it simply uses pulses as a way to obtain an intermediate amount of average current compared to turning the current on full-time. There is no particular hysteresis in the coil, but there may be friction in the valve, which will impart hysteresis to the system, as it did in the faulty unit. "2. the static inertia of the spring". The spring has almost no inertia compared to its spring force. To the extent any components have mass, they present inertial to the system, but (a) the effect of that inertia is small compared to the other forces, and (b) Newton's law of INERTIA states that if inertia is the only phenomenon at work (for example, no friction or spring) then applying ANY amount of force will cause the body to accelerate. So in no case will inertia per se prevent the valve from operating as was the case in the faulty valve. Any NASA t-shirt or truck stickers are solely in your imagination, along with an incorrect idea of what the word "inertia" means and how commonplace PWM is and how it works.
Спасибо for sharing your Father with us today, Ivan. Great video! I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2013 Toyota Highlander with the 2GR-FE, had to pull the air box, throttle body and intake plenum. Getting that intake plenum off was Not Fun™ but it sure ran better with fresh plugs, a clean throttle body, a new PCV valve and a new air filter. Question: Does he get the same Pine Hollow Warranty as anyone else? 😂
Nice to see where you got your smarts from Ivan, or at least some of them lol. I've tended to observe caution when operating a device on DC that was designed for pwm. Overheating can happen quickly.
Cool diagnosis! Watching that hysteresis on the faulty solenoid was very interesting. I wonder whether the OBD2 tool wasn't undersampling so you couldn't see the change that you were seeing on the scope. With the two way test, it likely is just doing sampling on that part of the system but, while driving, it does a bunch more stuff. Regardless, the scope shows what's really going on. Thanks, Ivan.
Those cooler line updates are a HUGE deal. Did an engine last year when they blew out on the highway on a customer! VVT solenoids, or low incorrect oil is usually the cause on the P0015. …Now on to the video!
If you simulated the normal operating oil temperature, while testing solenoids you will be shocked how much they change their behavior especially when they are pushing back oil pressure with an evident coil short
Loved hearing your Dad, I do not understand Russian, it always makes me feel like a challenge has been called out. "In Russia, we fix, no talk". Like Lev in the movie Armageddon; Lev Andropov : It's stuck, yes? Watts : Back off! You don't know the components! Lev Andropov : [annoyed] Components. American components, Russian Components, ALL MADE IN TAIWAN!
Great video and this p0015 just popped on our 2010 toyota venza 2gr with 145,000miles after an oil change 2 weeks ago. Oil level is good and even though i don't have large hands, i can't get my hand down to that back exhaust solenoid. I may try again though because i hate to think what a dealership would charge to remove the intake, etc.
Good job Ivan. I have to wonder how many full time mechanics would have even bothered to read the snap-on "troubleshoot" data. I'm sure that little bit of information just confirmed your initial thoughts about the solenoid especially when they have a "new version" of the valve assembly listed in those notes. That by itself likely saved a bunch of diag time vs. attempting to confirm via other measures. NO CHARGE...Happy Fathers Day Dad
Did Lexus redesign those oil cooler lines. I find with Toyota if there is a problem with a part, the new one has been re-engineered to not fail again. Happy Father's Day.
Хорошее видео. Насчет падения тока при подключении напряжение. Это логически понятно потому что при таком подключении (кстати такое подключение это не нормальное работы катушки, которая в любом случае должна управляться duty cycle) обмотка греется и соответственно повышается сопротивление что в конечном счёте влияет на ток протекающих по ней.
Great content!! Have exactly the same problem on a 2007 rx 350. No data pids changing while driving… going to see if my modis edge has those bidirectional controls. Completely forgot to even check that. Thanks so much for posting amazing case studies. Love your channel man!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that is awesome! thank you for answering, I truly appreciate it! I really enjoy the logical step taking/progression to diagnosing, I learn a ton with every video, they are great resources for learning! Thanks for all you do!
Lexus just don't rust at the same rate as everything else. Quality in every sense of the word! We're in MI with loads of salt, my Mom has an 07 Rx350 (with 170k) and it's 99.9% rust free.. Even underneath. One small surface chip starting to rust under a wheel well but that's It! My 08 Es350 with 306k has zero rust but only been in MI 4 years.
I’ve got the exact yr, make, and model. The VVT code would come in on a regular basis. Did a BG engine clean, and since then change my oil more frequently. The code hasn’t come back in over 100k miles.
I wonder if you could of taken the VVT Solenoid apart and cleaned the cylinder with spray brake cleaner and did the same to the piston and o rings ,perhaps you could of removed the contaminants that was making it stick. I did this operation on my G35 at 100K miles during a valve cover replacement. There were minute bits of slug/carbon that got pass the screen. This in time could have given me problems.
Great video Ivan! Good diagnostic, oil condition is also a big factor too, I’v managed to cure a few cars with similar running problems as this one with electronic solenoid’s which tend to stick I always use liqui Molly engine flush which would clean them out thoroughly followed by a treatment of liqui Molly Ceretec a ceramic treatment that coats all the bearings surfaces &chains chain tensioners and any friction surface, usually most problems improve within 100 miles or so .you really have to try it it’s a fantastic product with the best reviews! greetings from England
Those vvt solenoids can malfunction from something as simple as wrong oil weight or using conventional instead of synthetic. I had a customer with a Hyundai and it had a bad valve cover leak. Well anytime he was low on oil he would run to our local rural store for a quart. And the store only had 10w30 and 10w40 no 5w20 or synthetics. Well it threw a code for camshaft and crankshaft out of correlation. After diagnosing the bad solenoid I pulled it out and it was all gummed up with oil crud. He had the leak for over a year he said. Just goes to show why the manufacturer recommends certain weights and types. So next time you go to a quick lube shop or any shop for that matter make sure they are not using shit bulk oil whatever weight they have because it can make more problems than ya want. Most average mechanics would've diagnosed that code I got as a timing belt slipped etc. Then your out the money for a timing belt service and a new sensor eventually when they say dope I didn't solve the code what part can I chuck at it next
@@alb12345672 replacing conventional with synthetic probably wouldn't hurt it. If it were the other way around probably a good bet. Synthetic oil takes heat way better without breaking down so fast. So if they recommend a longer change interval above 4-5 k miles then synthetic is probably best. If the manufacturer recommends 3-4k conventional is fine. I have a 1995 Chevy G20 and I tow constantly so I run a synthetic blend just for the extra wear protection. But I also still change it every 3-4 k miles. I seen several cars where cheap bulk oil has been used and cause rough idle, misses, engine temp running a bit high etc etc..codes thrown for all kinds of crap too. Then switch em back to synthetic and at the most after 2 oil changes there back 100% no codes runs smoother temps a bit lower etc. Honda 3.5s get pissed with wrong weight/type. That car was rattling and shaking a bit..I switched it to OEM and it smoothed out and quieted down 10 fold. They were not technically due to change for 1k miles. Guy swore he needed a full time up on his pilot with only 42k on the odometer..I was like I really doubt it's due for major tuneup/servicing. All I did was change oil and he came back a week later just to talk about his ranger clutch and said he was amazed a $40 oil change solved it.
@@Boga217 Yeah it runs fine on Synthetic. Funny the next year 350 they went to 0W20 and a longer OCI. Some cheap bulk oils aren't the greatest. In that case 3K is a safe bet for bulk oil.
From the data I'm inclined to think that the car would benefit from a new solenoid on bank 1. It's less responsive and its range of action is late and restricted.
nice one Ivan , i wonder if you applied some heat to the solenoid on the bench you could of seen some resistance changes ? the think tool looks good, how does it compare to launchx361?and how much do they cost? thanks again Ivan
It might be worth firing the parts cannon on your dads truck and just replace the other ocv. That bank 2 seems to be sticking too but not as bad as the original in bank 1 😂
Hmmm. Not so cool that the new solenoid goes to 30deg and the old solenoid only goes to 20deg. Can't be very good for performance wouldn't you say? Being that it's supposed to be a linear system I would expect both banks to be exactly the same value for the same duty cycle for the best engine operation. Unless the ECU is monitoring for a specific value and adjusts the duty cycle to get what it's looking for? Could that be the real problem?? (it can't achieve what it wants i.e. 30) because the one solenoid can only go to 20? I'd say you need to find out the range it should be able to adjust for. Maybe you need to change the other solenoid as well. (to get them both to 30) Thoughts?
Иван, мне показалось, что Александр Батькович, раньше тебя подметил отставание реакции соленоида на уменьшение скважности :) Вероятно, одна из лучших моделей Toyota. Твой папа, выбрал ее из-за надежности?
Ii know there's a temptation to assume that textbook impedance measurements are always indicative of a parts failure. On a 1994 Saturn with a crank no start situation, I tested a fuel injector and discovered that it measured only half of the specified impedance. But one shot injector shouldn't keep the car from starting in my opinion, so I tested the others and they were all the same. As best as I recall, they should have been about 14 Ohms but were all 7. Which made more sense that they were all bad... But then Logic said 4 injectors don't all fail at the same time. I wound up replacing the computer as after testing literally everything else, it wasn't sending pulses to the injectors... It's now 10 years later and those low impedance injectors are still working perfectly.. Did Saturn just do a run of oddball injectors and not document it? Or was the manual wrong? Who knows? Or maybe someone had replaced all of the injectors with some off brand injectors before we got the car... But you were absolutely right to do a function test! Impedances can be off due to dirty connectors and some parts can function just fine even when they test as off spec. Of course, if the impedances are off on feedback or reference circuits that the computer needs to read, they are more critical. On the 1994 Saturn, the fuel injectors didn't have such a feedback circuit to the computer, so it really didn't care. One might think that the low injector impedance put more strain on the ignition drivers in the computer, but the new computer is still chugging along after well over another 100,000 miles... so while the low impedance likely didn't kill the computer's injection driver circuit, they likely didn't help. And even if 7 Ohms is half of 14 Ohms... 7 Ohms in the grand scheme of things isn't really that much. And of course when you get a reading near infinite megaohms that should be in single digit ohms, on a fuel pump motor for example... the brushes are gone and the pump is done for. So there are some places where an Ohm reading can still be definitive.
Ivan. Your father seem to notice it sticking before you did. I don’t know what these control valves cost but it appears the second one does not work the same as the other. If your saying the one you replaced is fine by going up to 30 degrees but, the other only reached 20 degrees I would change both just for piece of mind for the future. Nice car he owns.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Haha good to know sir. Do you happen to know the part number. Has been confusing, I see some sites show 1, 2 , right, left rear etc. Thanks a bunch!
@@taylorwaylor87 yeah the part numbers are confusing for sure! B1 exhaust "RH No1" P0015 is 15330-0P020. B1 intake "RH No2" P0016 is 15330-0P030. Good luck!
something suspicious there, one bank opens further than the other, the other solenoid is likely failing. but who knows, maybe they did some tomfoolery to get more EGR flow on one bank
![Quando Rondo - Life Goes On [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eIf3fhMXAow/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice to see your DAD again Ivan, I was wondering how he was doing. HAPPY FATHER'S DAY, IVAN'S DAD. Henry from N.E. PA.
Lovely to see father and son working technical problems out, i know you and your dad are super smart, i remember your dad works for the Univesity as a researcher. Nice to see you both share a moment.
The old hysterisis, having to go over or under a limit to acheave a change in a reluctant circuit or mechanism.
The squelch on c.b radios has a similar property, to stop a chattering switching point.
Recording on tape needs the over and under flux levels to overcome the reluctance of the oxide being magnitized.
Something like that lol.
Happy Fathers Day Ivan's Dad. You have a good son there.
your the man dude.. always cool to see some professional diagnostics and repairs that we can do on the floor and at home. it's motivating and inspirational dude. keep it up! love the vids too man!
Thanks Andrew!
Xex exc c.
Happy fathers day, all you fellow Dads..
Happy Father's day. That solenoid probably wears out faster because it's towards the back of the engine. Its hotter back there..
God bless you and your dad Ivan.
Factory techstream is like that too. You only see change on those PIDs during the active test feature. Kind of annoying when you compare to other manufacturers! Nice video. I really like that resistance check where you did that to all of them.
Good job testing them,I've found when Lexus or Toyota "same thing" trip those vvt codes,there is a reason,alot of times it could be phasers,cam,or needing a simple oil change,but 95% of the time the solenoid is wore out,good job.
I knew a guy that had a car with an oil leak. He had to add about .25 of a quart a week. He decided he did not need to do oil changes and only changed his oil filter. It wasn't long before his car started throwing VVT error codes. The solenoid was good and the screen was clear. So he changed the oil and filter and never had the VVT error code again. Even with a bad oil leak and having to add a lot of oil between oil changes the VVT system was affected by not performing a full oil change.
Looks to me like you actually demonstrated that the bank 1 solenoid doesn't reach 30 degrees or respond at the same rate as the replaced one. You found a failure before it started throwing codes. Time to replace that one too.
That's exactly what I Was wondering too. Shouldn't they behave exactly the same? Are the part numbers the same for both solenoids?
You're correct, these solenoids have a life span where it is recommended to replace them all when one starts to fail. This will improve fuel efficiency due to their better responsiveness. For this design, spark plugs are recommended if you don't know the history of the car since you will be removing the intake plenum most likely as they are under it for Bank 1.
@@stephendee7839 these are VVT solenoids, they are $120 a piece.
@@scientist100 my mistake. I mixed up which video I was commenting on.
Quality time with dad :), father like son, dad has a good eye and picked that variable up quick smart..well done..
You always feel on top when you help out your Pop. 😎👍
That was quite a nice father's day gift.
Beautiful Russian, beautiful English! Ivan, you are the guy. Happy Father’s Day to you and your papa
No BONUS footage? Not much of a fathers day gift for us.... Just kidding Ivan. Keep up the good work. Just maybe not so early next time.
Bank "1" the hardest one, isn't always? :-)
Congratulations, another happy (special) customer! Glad the engine wasn't out of time for real though, it would have needed way more work and could have had bad consequences
Nice job ivan! For helping your dad with his car! Happy Father's day to your dad and yourself too! Awesome video! Many thumbs up
great video. Awesome that you were helping your Dad. I miss helping my Dad.
Happy Fathers Day. Thanks Ivan!
You the man with the rite plan happy Father’s Day to everyone
So you used a Dorman, right ;) j/k. The problem with the bench voltage/amperage test you did is that they are not designed to stay 100% on for long lengths of time, they are duty cycled as we know. So 1 would expect as the coil heats up with 100% on time we'd see numbers change. That being said, given its location it doesn't surprise me at all that it eventually succumbed to heat failure.
p0015 on the lexus ! Perform an engine flush combined with a cleaning of the solenoids. I do an engine flush at every second oil change. Costs a little and saves a lot.
I’ve worked on that engine as I used to own one. Not a ton of room beneath the manifold on bank 2. Kudos on your method as always man. S Dnem Ottsa!
@21:44 or stated another way - 44% duty cycle is the amount of electrical energy required to overcome the mechanical inertia that is required for an instant response.
It's overcoming friction, pressure differentials and likely a spring more than inertia.
@@Graham_Wideman and my good man, pray tell, how would you aptly encapsulate the meaning of what you just described into one word?
@@MrXyzasdf I don't have a single word for the list of opposing forces that I added, but none of them are proportional to acceleration, which inertia is. That's important, because it changes the expectation of how the valve responds to a moderate PWM input. Increased inertia leads to expectation that the valve responds slower than normal, but still responds and completes the movement with same PWM levels. Increased static friction leads to expectation that higher than normal PWM is required to overcome sticking (as in Ivan's case), while increase of diff pressure or opposing spring both require increase in PWM to finish the movement. Of these, inertia is the least fitting explanation of the symptoms -- it would require something in the system to become more massive.
@@Graham_Wideman There is more than one form of inertia. Pay closer attention to what Ivan is saying @21:44 This vehicle manufacturer has implemented a strategy of electrically pulsing the VVT solenoid valve at 44% duty cycle for its designed closed position to overcome 1. hysteresis of the magnetic coil and 2. the static inertia of the spring, otherwise the valve will respond slower for the intended designed goal. Please burn your NASA t-shirt and the stickers from your pickup truck.
@@MrXyzasdf "There is more than one form of inertia." Inertia is used vaguely in common speech, but in science and engineering it has a precise meaning since Newton defined it in 1687 in his Laws of Motion: Law 1 The Law of Inertia: acceleration = Force/mass and Law 2: momentum = mass x velocity. Effectively, Law 1 tells how to add to or subtract from the momentum that an object possesses per Law 2. So essentially "inertia" is synonymous with "momentum".
"This vehicle manufacturer has implemented a strategy of electrically pulsing the VVT solenoid valve at 44% duty cycle". You mean the manufacturer is using plain old pulse-width modulation (PWM).
"for its designed closed position to overcome 1. hysteresis of the magnetic coil " Not so. First, there's nothing special about 44%. That just happens to produce enough average current to overcome all the NON-inertial forces and move the valve in this unit. Other units are probably similar, but not identical. The circuit does not depend on 44% exactly because the system also measures the VVT result and can increase or decrease the PWM as needed to set the VVT to variable amounts of advance by setting the valve to intermediate positions. The system also does not depend on pulsing to overcome anything, it simply uses pulses as a way to obtain an intermediate amount of average current compared to turning the current on full-time. There is no particular hysteresis in the coil, but there may be friction in the valve, which will impart hysteresis to the system, as it did in the faulty unit.
"2. the static inertia of the spring". The spring has almost no inertia compared to its spring force. To the extent any components have mass, they present inertial to the system, but (a) the effect of that inertia is small compared to the other forces, and (b) Newton's law of INERTIA states that if inertia is the only phenomenon at work (for example, no friction or spring) then applying ANY amount of force will cause the body to accelerate. So in no case will inertia per se prevent the valve from operating as was the case in the faulty valve.
Any NASA t-shirt or truck stickers are solely in your imagination, along with an incorrect idea of what the word "inertia" means and how commonplace PWM is and how it works.
Happy father's day to all father's out there
Спасибо for sharing your Father with us today, Ivan. Great video! I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2013 Toyota Highlander with the 2GR-FE, had to pull the air box, throttle body and intake plenum. Getting that intake plenum off was Not Fun™ but it sure ran better with fresh plugs, a clean throttle body, a new PCV valve and a new air filter. Question: Does he get the same Pine Hollow Warranty as anyone else? 😂
Lifetime warranty! 😁👌
Well my XXL meat hooks won't fit, but great job as always, happy father's day guys
Nice to see where you got your smarts from Ivan, or at least some of them lol.
I've tended to observe caution when operating a device on DC that was designed for pwm. Overheating can happen quickly.
Happy fathers great diagnosis and repair 👍
You did the original ZAZ mechanic a solid in this one. Kewl!
Great case study for a Father's Day ! Thanks Ivan and Happy Father's Day to your father.
Cool diagnosis! Watching that hysteresis on the faulty solenoid was very interesting. I wonder whether the OBD2 tool wasn't undersampling so you couldn't see the change that you were seeing on the scope. With the two way test, it likely is just doing sampling on that part of the system but, while driving, it does a bunch more stuff.
Regardless, the scope shows what's really going on.
Thanks, Ivan.
Those cooler line updates are a HUGE deal. Did an engine last year when they blew out on the highway on a customer!
VVT solenoids, or low incorrect oil is usually the cause on the P0015.
…Now on to the video!
Nice diag Ivan thanks for posting!
Good demo and explaination. Thanks for going the extra mile with the bench testing. I came here from South Main Auto and really enjoy both of you!
the Russian dialog is by far the best part of this video
If you simulated the normal operating oil temperature, while testing solenoids you will be shocked how much they change their behavior especially when they are pushing back oil pressure with an evident coil short
Happy Father's Day
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Happy Father's Day!!!
Loved hearing your Dad, I do not understand Russian, it always makes me feel like a challenge has been called out. "In Russia, we fix, no talk". Like Lev in the movie Armageddon; Lev Andropov : It's stuck, yes?
Watts : Back off! You don't know the components! Lev Andropov : [annoyed] Components. American components, Russian Components, ALL MADE IN TAIWAN!
the vvt oilsupply line has a bendthat is rubber and a new solid part replaces.
Nice diag and fix👌sucks that my Snap On Solus Edge doesn't have this bidirectional option🤦♂️
Dad are you paying by credit card or cash?😅😅. Great job
I really love your father russian accent!!👍
Great video and this p0015 just popped on our 2010 toyota venza 2gr with 145,000miles after an oil change 2 weeks ago. Oil level is good and even though i don't have large hands, i can't get my hand down to that back exhaust solenoid. I may try again though because i hate to think what a dealership would charge to remove the intake, etc.
As an upcoming Technician I’m so glad I found you, very good content, keep up the good work 👍🏻
Awesome to hear Jon! It's a very rewarding field with learning opportunities every day 👌🙂
Good job Ivan. I have to wonder how many full time mechanics would have even bothered to read the snap-on "troubleshoot" data. I'm sure that little bit of information just confirmed your initial thoughts about the solenoid especially when they have a "new version" of the valve assembly listed in those notes. That by itself likely saved a bunch of diag time vs. attempting to confirm via other measures. NO CHARGE...Happy Fathers Day Dad
Did Lexus redesign those oil cooler lines. I find with Toyota if there is a problem with a part, the new one has been re-engineered to not fail again. Happy Father's Day.
I believe these are hoses and they brittle and break. Not sure what they look like as the ones I have seen, they have the aluminum version already.
“Timing over retarded”. Reminds me that dumb movie; tropic thunder. “Everybody knows you never go full retard…. “
С днем отца!
Was just seeing this issue on a 2012 Highlander. It is an intermittent stuck on condition and it is common for this design it looks.
Хорошее видео. Насчет падения тока при подключении напряжение. Это логически понятно потому что при таком подключении (кстати такое подключение это не нормальное работы катушки, которая в любом случае должна управляться duty cycle) обмотка греется и соответственно повышается сопротивление что в конечном счёте влияет на ток протекающих по ней.
Great content!! Have exactly the same problem on a 2007 rx 350. No data pids changing while driving… going to see if my modis edge has those bidirectional controls. Completely forgot to even check that. Thanks so much for posting amazing case studies. Love your channel man!
Thank you for the kind words 🙂🙏
Hey Ivan I love the vids! I always learn something. Was wondering how you got into this? Did you go to tech school or just learn this on your own?
Self-taught with help from generous mentors :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that is awesome! thank you for answering, I truly appreciate it! I really enjoy the logical step taking/progression to diagnosing, I learn a ton with every video, they are great resources for learning!
Thanks for all you do!
I enjoyed the video; I'm just surprised that a 2009 anything is still going in that upstate New York salt
They try to avoid the really salty days lol
Lexus just don't rust at the same rate as everything else. Quality in every sense of the word! We're in MI with loads of salt, my Mom has an 07 Rx350 (with 170k) and it's 99.9% rust free.. Even underneath. One small surface chip starting to rust under a wheel well but that's It! My 08 Es350 with 306k has zero rust but only been in MI 4 years.
@@dustinkauffman5868 Yeah they must treat the metal better :)
Good to see your dad!
I’ve got the exact yr, make, and model. The VVT code would come in on a regular basis. Did a BG engine clean, and since then change my oil more frequently. The code hasn’t come back in over 100k miles.
got P0025 on cold start once in a blue moon. 4GR-FSE, same culprit here?
I wonder if you could of taken the VVT Solenoid apart and cleaned the cylinder with spray brake cleaner and did the same to the piston and o rings ,perhaps you could of removed the contaminants that was making it stick. I did this operation on my G35 at 100K miles during a valve cover replacement. There were minute bits of slug/carbon that got pass the screen. This in time could have given me problems.
Great detective work Ivan. Its the little stuff that makes sensors not work. Happy Fathers day.
Etch-a-sketch scanner beats Verus once again!
Great video Ivan! Good diagnostic, oil condition is also a big factor too, I’v managed to cure a few cars with similar running problems as this one with electronic solenoid’s which tend to stick I always use liqui Molly engine flush which would clean them out thoroughly followed by a treatment of liqui Molly Ceretec a ceramic treatment that coats all the bearings surfaces &chains chain tensioners and any friction surface, usually most problems improve within 100 miles or so .you really have to try it it’s a fantastic product with the best reviews! greetings from England
Tks for the Father’s Day
What was the part number for the VVT valve replacement?
Like #104
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
HINDSIGHT is 20-15!
Happy Father's day
I miss the accents of my elders...
Me too, and I'm so glad they came to this country.
Those vvt solenoids can malfunction from something as simple as wrong oil weight or using conventional instead of synthetic. I had a customer with a Hyundai and it had a bad valve cover leak. Well anytime he was low on oil he would run to our local rural store for a quart. And the store only had 10w30 and 10w40 no 5w20 or synthetics. Well it threw a code for camshaft and crankshaft out of correlation. After diagnosing the bad solenoid I pulled it out and it was all gummed up with oil crud. He had the leak for over a year he said. Just goes to show why the manufacturer recommends certain weights and types. So next time you go to a quick lube shop or any shop for that matter make sure they are not using shit bulk oil whatever weight they have because it can make more problems than ya want. Most average mechanics would've diagnosed that code I got as a timing belt slipped etc. Then your out the money for a timing belt service and a new sensor eventually when they say dope I didn't solve the code what part can I chuck at it next
I have a Lexus GS 350 2011 and it specifies CONVENTIONAL 5W30. I use Pennzoil platinum Ultra 5W30 but I wonder if it could cause issues.
@@alb12345672 replacing conventional with synthetic probably wouldn't hurt it. If it were the other way around probably a good bet. Synthetic oil takes heat way better without breaking down so fast. So if they recommend a longer change interval above 4-5 k miles then synthetic is probably best. If the manufacturer recommends 3-4k conventional is fine. I have a 1995 Chevy G20 and I tow constantly so I run a synthetic blend just for the extra wear protection. But I also still change it every 3-4 k miles. I seen several cars where cheap bulk oil has been used and cause rough idle, misses, engine temp running a bit high etc etc..codes thrown for all kinds of crap too. Then switch em back to synthetic and at the most after 2 oil changes there back 100% no codes runs smoother temps a bit lower etc. Honda 3.5s get pissed with wrong weight/type. That car was rattling and shaking a bit..I switched it to OEM and it smoothed out and quieted down 10 fold. They were not technically due to change for 1k miles. Guy swore he needed a full time up on his pilot with only 42k on the odometer..I was like I really doubt it's due for major tuneup/servicing. All I did was change oil and he came back a week later just to talk about his ranger clutch and said he was amazed a $40 oil change solved it.
@@Boga217 Yeah it runs fine on Synthetic. Funny the next year 350 they went to 0W20 and a longer OCI. Some cheap bulk oils aren't the greatest. In that case 3K is a safe bet for bulk oil.
Good job! Hope it runs great!
Респект что папе помогаешь, молодец 👍👍
Excellent video Ivan. Good to see your dad in a video too. Was that an oem solenoid and lines , or were they aftermarket ? And how old is your dad?
Love your channel man.
Nicely done. Worked great for my procrastinating, from re-doing a manifold fubar! (coming soon)
Ivan,what it do quality video as usual
From the data I'm inclined to think that the car would benefit from a new solenoid on bank 1. It's less responsive and its range of action is late and restricted.
Ivan, what year did your dad come to the States?
1992
a freebie for dad parts and all.
Greetings from Russia! Very interesting to watch your channel.
Hi, need suggestion on why a new controller fit on a scissor just does not take commands.
nice one Ivan , i wonder if you applied some heat to the solenoid on the bench you could of seen some resistance changes ? the think tool looks good, how does it compare to launchx361?and how much do they cost? thanks again Ivan
I like the ThinkTool package more... It's rugged and has a nice stand, plus a bright screen 👍
It might be worth firing the parts cannon on your dads truck and just replace the other ocv. That bank 2 seems to be sticking too but not as bad as the original in bank 1 😂
Awesome video. Hi Ivan I went to place the order for the thinktools pros and the discount code says invalid!
Hmmm.
Not so cool that the new solenoid goes to 30deg and the old solenoid only goes to 20deg. Can't be very good for performance wouldn't you say?
Being that it's supposed to be a linear system I would expect both banks to be exactly the same value for the same duty cycle for the best engine operation.
Unless the ECU is monitoring for a specific value and adjusts the duty cycle to get what it's looking for?
Could that be the real problem?? (it can't achieve what it wants i.e. 30) because the one solenoid can only go to 20?
I'd say you need to find out the range it should be able to adjust for. Maybe you need to change the other solenoid as well. (to get them both to 30)
Thoughts?
Иван, мне показалось, что Александр Батькович, раньше тебя подметил отставание реакции соленоида на уменьшение скважности :)
Вероятно, одна из лучших моделей Toyota. Твой папа, выбрал ее из-за надежности?
Выбирала мама.
@@alexandertemnykh9745 Ваша МАМА, не уступила вам в знаниях :)
Nicely done!
Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
Ii know there's a temptation to assume that textbook impedance measurements are always indicative of a parts failure. On a 1994 Saturn with a crank no start situation, I tested a fuel injector and discovered that it measured only half of the specified impedance. But one shot injector shouldn't keep the car from starting in my opinion, so I tested the others and they were all the same. As best as I recall, they should have been about 14 Ohms but were all 7. Which made more sense that they were all bad... But then Logic said 4 injectors don't all fail at the same time. I wound up replacing the computer as after testing literally everything else, it wasn't sending pulses to the injectors... It's now 10 years later and those low impedance injectors are still working perfectly.. Did Saturn just do a run of oddball injectors and not document it? Or was the manual wrong? Who knows? Or maybe someone had replaced all of the injectors with some off brand injectors before we got the car...
But you were absolutely right to do a function test! Impedances can be off due to dirty connectors and some parts can function just fine even when they test as off spec. Of course, if the impedances are off on feedback or reference circuits that the computer needs to read, they are more critical. On the 1994 Saturn, the fuel injectors didn't have such a feedback circuit to the computer, so it really didn't care. One might think that the low injector impedance put more strain on the ignition drivers in the computer, but the new computer is still chugging along after well over another 100,000 miles... so while the low impedance likely didn't kill the computer's injection driver circuit, they likely didn't help. And even if 7 Ohms is half of 14 Ohms... 7 Ohms in the grand scheme of things isn't really that much.
And of course when you get a reading near infinite megaohms that should be in single digit ohms, on a fuel pump motor for example... the brushes are gone and the pump is done for. So there are some places where an Ohm reading can still be definitive.
Great stuff Ivan thanks
Ivan. Your father seem to notice it sticking before you did. I don’t know what these control valves cost but it appears the second one does not work the same as the other. If your saying the one you replaced is fine by going up to 30 degrees but, the other only reached 20 degrees I would change both just for piece of mind for the future. Nice car he owns.
Experience in scientific research makes itself felt ...
If you keep showing broken Lexus and Toyotas, Scotty's going to take a contract out on you!
What about the oil cooling lines?!
Would it be the same for a 2010 Lexus Rx350? Have Codes P0015 and P0016. How hard was it to wiggle it out of the way of the intake?
Yup same codes. The one towards the firewall is a very tight reach but doable with some skinny wobble extensions and long fingers lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Haha good to know sir. Do you happen to know the part number. Has been confusing, I see some sites show 1, 2 , right, left rear etc. Thanks a bunch!
@@taylorwaylor87 yeah the part numbers are confusing for sure! B1 exhaust "RH No1" P0015 is 15330-0P020. B1 intake "RH No2" P0016 is 15330-0P030. Good luck!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks a LOT - was able to remove and clean it - reinstalled - so far no CEL!
@@taylorwaylor87 was it clogged up? Usually replacement is the only long term solution 👍
something suspicious there, one bank opens further than the other, the other solenoid is likely failing. but who knows, maybe they did some tomfoolery to get more EGR flow on one bank
Hi that Thinktool pros is it a good scan tool ?
It's fantastic! My favorite for modern cars 👍
Ok I was thinking about it over the autel ms906bt
Is that an aftermarket solenoid? I would probably go oem
OEM of course 👍
So, my big meaty paws would not be able to complete this job. Dang it.
My big Polish hands don't fit into tight spaces... :-)