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Thank you Thank You Thank You. I This is by far the best and clearest explanation and clarification that I have seen on the breakdown of Martin guitars. Great teacher! I am on my way today to purchase another Martin. I have a 53 year old D28 , and would like a model that is more forgiving of my old fingers..Lol. A 15,16,17 may be the answer.
I own a 1965 D35-B (original owner), third one made. Still in pristine shape, and has such a deep, warm, full sound. Still love this model over all my other acoustics.
And if you did an honest "blind ear" test and compared it to my pathetic $200 foreign no-name (purchased in 1991), you would be hard-pressed to declare your Martin superior. I have done "the test" several times and my "beater" guitar wins these sound contests. It's a "Samick" in case that matters. Here's the rub. Your Martin will feel better in the hands -- way better than my Samick.
@freedomvan2970 I bet you don't remain a home player! I am 73, and I play 2 or 3 times a week in Florida.. I have 3 Martin's and I used to play Gibson Acoustics.. I love my 00015M, and I think for the money, it's the most versatile... When I was your age I would have died to own a D18!! Hope you enjoy it for another 39 years... BTW do you ever write songs? That's what I do most of the time but I do about 40% cover songs..
I'm lucky enough to have a 1998 D42K (koa back and sides) and it is spectacular. Warm, articulate and balanced. Best acoustic I've ever played and I've played a lot
It was the last FULL year, because they cut over to Indian Rosewood in the middle of 1969 sometime. My '69 D-28 was made early in the year and is Braillian.
Hi my friend, and thank you for the video. Obviously the SC implies single cut. I (with a very rare exception) buy only American made. But the single cut is more appealing to me from someone that may want to do lead work. I'm not at the level of many of the great musicians that have owned these fine instruments but can certainly hold my own. In 1989 the producer of a song I was doing in Nutmeg Studios (1989 NYC) literallity wouldn't let me play my personal acoustic guitar. I won't say what I was playing because to do so would be in bad taste, but it wasn't junk. He told me to use this 1950's Martin that he just had there in the studio. It had to belong to him. Even then, who had something of that level? I got spoiled by a Martin circa the 1950's as I remember. I'm a lot older now, so the specific year, I have forgotten over time.The producer had a whole story of how before they were purchased or taken over by whoever, this guitar was made and all the tings that made it the best ever lol. But it was old as hell even then and it sounded like I'd imagine God would want his guitar to sound. I was even scared to touch it. I'd like a single cut Martin that isn't foreign made. I have no prejudice at all but I live where I do, and would prefer the money I spend stays in the United States if at all possible. Thank you so much for the detail and understanding of the models. The one I need is not from where I would purchase. Especially given the disclaimers earlier in the post in terms of wood etc. Please forgive any typos. I'm slightly rushed at the moment.
Thanks for this very informative summary of the features of the different models. It confirmed for me that I made the right choice 52 years ago (1972) when I bought a new 1971 D-28 to step up from my nylon-string student/beginner guitar. I still figure the D-28 is my "forever" guitar, and I haven't bought any others in all those years except for a D12-28 to add a 12-string to my collection. Still not in the market for any more guitars......
This has been very helpful for me, considering a Martin lately. Just haven't bonded with my Taylor. I know you are focused on purely acoustic tone here, but I would like to see a breakdown of Martins that also have pickups. Thanks for posting, subscribed.
I bought a Road Series 000-12 Koa and it is an amazing guitar !!! I keep the old 00-18G and the OM 21 in their cases most of the time and play the Road Series ! But I have a Blueridge 12 Fret they blows them all away !
I have a D35 Martin., 1968. I bought it from a guy’s brother, who used to play it on the Honky Tonk circuit, in that area. He wore a big bull riders belt buckle, and you can see where he laid it on his belt buckle, as he played over the years. Still very beautiful…
Dude you explained things very well, better than any video I've ever seen to date. I'm only 7mins into it and I've learned a ton about Martins so far from this video and others on your channel. If I were to spoil myself I'd go with a 45 but a 28 is more than enough for me. I wonder why they never made a D-38 Special. Now that sounds sweet. Just kidding . . . actually no I'm not. It does sound like a killer model number.
Buying my first martin today. Used D10e. Only have played seagull and Taylor this far so excited to venture to Martin now. Thanks for the video this was helpful
Nice to see a left hander behind you. Martin don't charge extra for LH. Actually, the Martin J is bigger and easily as loud as a D and has excellent balance (I have an M40 and an HD35 so I so speak from experience). Regarding, tone, the break point is actually at 35, not 28, because the 3 piece back and 1/4 inch bracing create a whole different tone. There is even an argument that there is tonal difference at the 40 point, because the J40 comes with scalloped bracing (which you don't touch on, but should - everyone should play and D28 and an HD 28 before choosing) as standard. There's no D36 (that's a D35 you got hold of there) except as a custom. There is an M36 (also with a 3 piece back). Ms are great, too. Otherwise, this is the best comparison review I have seen, especially for the new buyer. In particular, you are right on the money with finish. You have to play both and also understand the likely future of the two. A satin guitar simply does not have the same durability as full gloss. Personally, I also don't like how satin guitars sound because you get more body noise (where your body touches the guitar) especially plugged in. As I say, this is the best guide for the beginning guitar buyer, bar none. You can't go wrong with a Martin. I happen to regret the decision to go with HPL (they could have gone with low price solid wood like birch instead), but even these are great guitars. Martin consistently beat the competition, and you do a great job of introducing us to their range.
I 've got a martn D15 that I bought second hand 20 yrs.ago,I don't play much but I just drool over it so proud that I bought it without knowing how good the guitar is.
I own several Martins. I’m a lefty and appreciate Martin for offering all their models in lefty. I own a 00012-16 CE Nylon, 0-18, a 000-28 EC, a 1991D28S, and a D45. The 0-18 Mahogany and spruce is BY FAR, my favorite to play. It’s small but very loud . Actually, when fingerpicking, the 0-18 is actually LOUDER than my D28 and 45. With a pick, it’s very different. The larger guitars shine. There is NOTHING like a Martin guitar.
Terrific explanation. I recently bought my first Martin. I jumped in by buying a used D-18 model (made in Nazareth in 2019). I couldn't be happier. I wanted the beautiful sound, the quality, the prestige and the company history of a Martin. I got everything I wanted. I agree with you: Above the D-18 ($$-wise) the extra money buys bling. I don’t have anything against bling, except that I just don't want to pay for it, especially for my first and only acoustic guitar. Thanks for this fantastic video. I learned far more from your video than I learned during my Martin factory tour in June. ❤
Congratulations, that's a beautiful guitar! If you call Martin's customer support they recommend waxing the fretboard and the bridge (as they don't have a finish) at least once a year. They told me to use Dr. Duck's AxWax. Play on!
@@tomdaoust Nice! I tried to add a link but couldn't. Do a youtube search on: Cleaning and Polishing your Guitar There is a Martin guy giving a good cleaning demo.
Great review! BTW , the 0-18, 00-18, 000-18 & D-18 have Genuine Mahogany back & sides as listed in the specifications. Genuine Mahogany is Honduran Mahogany and is one of the highest quality and most expensive types of mahogany. Other models that are listed as Mahogany back & sides are not made with Honduran Mahogany.
Yesterday I bought my first Martin guitar. Based on your advice I made a great choice. I bought a 2019 D-18 in mahogany. I haven’t bought a guitar since 1969 when I bought a Mosrite sunburst combo hollow body electric. I’m delighted with my D-18 choice. Thanks for your great explanations. Can I get the charts you showed?
I have a Road Series SC13-E Special Bursrt. i love it the neck/fingerboard is so nice. I’ve had multiple hand and wrist surgery’s.Because of smaller size you loose some of the deeper tone and I change the electronics to LR Baggs Anthem. Played through a Fishman Performer for gigs. With a Boss Ad-10 really bring out the tone in a room. $2000. I had the bridge slowed and installed liquid metal pins flipped around no slot, sustain is incredible.
I also have a D-12 35. Probably 1971 so I'm told. Don't play on it much and haven't since I got it in 1975. The neck is easy to play on. And the volume is stupendous. Very much like my 0012
I’ve had my 1978 D28 since 1979…it’s been wonderful to own and play….looking to get a Custom Shop 000-28 possibly…or an Eric Clapton 000-28….we’ll see…I like the traditional beauties…
My 1966 O-16 New Yorker was the first re-issue of an old classic (NY shop). It's a 16 with a satin top...mahogany and sitka, wide neck, slotted headstock.. I think they made them from '61-90 I guess it's sort of a custom build....sweet beyond belief....available....
It should be noted that trubbing against a satin finishes while strumming yields a scratchy sound (that some find a problem) which gloss finishes don't have. I find it especially annoying if a satin finish guitar doesn't have a pickguard because I always am always touching where the pg would be. Another issue with satin is it becomes glossy wherever you do rub against it so the finish often looks splotchy even just after a month of playing. This is generally where your arm rubs over the lower bass bout. Consider a satin finish carefully and play gloss counterparts to see/hear the difference.
John, Excellent video with great info about the best brand guitar in the world....Martin !! My wife bought me a D16GT for Christmas in 2001. I love this guitar. What model would you suggest if I want to get a better model for 2 reasons. Improved sound and reinvestment value. Thank you !!!!
Congrats thats awesome! My wife has a D16GTE, great guitar. I think the gold standards are still D-18 or D-28 in the Standard series, but the 16 series are true workhorse and performer guitars that are great. Thanks for watching
It's the D-35 not 36, and it does have a unique bracing on the inside that does change the sound. It would also be good to mention the H series which features herringbone binding, but also the scalloped bracing that you don't find on the typical D models until you get to the 40+ ones or the ones from the 30s.
Bought a Martin SC 13e, made in Mexico two years ago, for $!,600. Lots of problems! Just bought a Firefly acoustic electric, for $200. IMO, The Firefly outlooks, outplays and outsounds the Martin, HANDS DOWN. Never again will I let a brand name influence my buying decisions.
What kind of problems did you have? I just bought an x2 e 12 string for 950 Canadian dollars and think it’s fantastic! I hope I don’t have any problems with it.
Firefly and Harley Benton make extraordinary guitars (made in China, but the Firefly is sold out of San Francisco & the Harley Benton out of England which adds overseas shipping from the UK to the slightly higher price). I saw a comparison of the $216 Firefly FFSPS Elite (Les Paul Custom clone they used to call the FFLP) with a Gibson Les Paul Custom. They were originally going to compare it with the Gibson budget Epiphone $1000 Les Paul Custom, but it blew it away. It compared just about equally with the Gibson in tone & playability, and the Firefly was actually finished with fewer fit & finish problems. Older Firefly's used to have uneven height fret problems & you'd pay as much for the fret leveling as you did for the guitar - but its still a bargain. I have a Gibson ES-335 and just got a Firefly ES-335 from a cousin who has arthritis & stopped playing. I can hear the difference in the pickups, but they're damn close. Nobody I know who's not a musician can tell them apart with their eyes closed. How the Chinese can do this quality of work for just hundreds of dollars astounds me. I've lived in China 3 times as an IT consultant & seen how good their technology can be when they want to extend themselves (not the garbage they usually sell on Amazon). More than half of Elon Musk's Teslas are made just outside Shanghai, as are his batteries & he's building an even bigger auto assembly plant down the street there. Now and then, Firefly drops a dozen or two FFLP or FFSP (the newer designation) on Amazon. They are bought up within hours & turn up on eBay at 3 times the price, mostly still unopened in original packaging, or with minor modifications, by flippers. You can sometimes find one at theguitarsgarden.com (their American headquarters). Their Strat & Tele clones are not quite as good, but give them a year. Their "Gibsons" & acoustics are good enough to gig with or bring into the studio. Stay away from Chibson or Grote and many other Chinese clones, some are real garbage & made to "normal" Amazon quality for the unknowing American market. Note: almost all the 5-star reviews on Amazon's cheap Chinese junk are fakes. Third-party companies exist to have hundreds of people buy cheap stuff & then return it to the manufacturer for resale - but they get to have "verified purchaser" next to their 5-star review - most of which are written by AI. Read the 1-star reviews first & if the same problems (usually with pictures) keep coming up, be warned.
I've owned at least 20. Wish I kept them all. '58 000-18, '59 D-28, '50 D-18, plus some newer ones- D-41, D-45, 000-42 to name a few. Right now they have the modern deluxe series, I bought the 000-18 and 000-42. Those are as good in every way as any I have had.
I've owned six Martins and still have 5. The D-35 I purchased in '79 has been well played and is on the rack. I traded my 000-28EC for a D-42 years ago. I have a '94 J-40 and I purchased the 000-42MD in November '23. I love it so much, when I saw the Martin CEO-10, I had to have it too. They're all fantastic! I need to slow down... Rock on, brother!
I have been loyal to Martin for awhile, but not after being disappointed by some rivals. I have arrived at a standard OM28 with a KnK mini installed. My beater is a modern 000 17 that I have already played the finish off. I dropped it. Now the side is cracked. If it gets too dry, a brace will rattle. I'm cautious with the 28, but I drive the wheels off the 17, and keep her out of the case most of the time. Fussing over gear is a muse killer for me. This guitar feels like good boots that are broke in.
I love my Yamaha FG830. A poor man's Martin. Also, my LL6M ARE is amazing. I am a huge fan of the models being made in the Navajo factory. That being said, the guitars made in Nazareth are awesome.
Yammies blow the entry level Martins from Mexico away. So do Alvarez. High end yamaha and alvarez/yairi are at least equal to Martins in the same price range IMO
I recently found this out. 1985 is when they started using truss rods instead of the reinforcement rods, and 2007 was the year they started implementing two way truss rods.
I've had my D35 since new in 1973 bought it new when i was young, it's pristine I'm thinking of selling it since at 71 arthritis is kinda taking it's toll. Time to let someone else love this guitar.
I have three Martins. A 98 D35, An LX1E for teaching, and an S1 Ukulele. I’ve owned vintage and new, been to the factory 4 times, bought sold traded around 20 Martins since 2003. Ive owned or played almost every model. I’ve driven from Winnipeg to Nashville to trade a Martin. I’ll tell you, shoulder issues made me sell some great guitars. Just find a way to use a strap and drape it over your right leg vs holding it normally. Smaller guitars just don’t have the boom and the sustaining bass for my music. Truss rods are nice. I’ve had 4 neck resets done on various guitars over the years. I like Martins but also like Gibsons. I bought an Emerald carbon fiber for all the situations I wouldn’t want to put my wood guitars through
000-15 has the sweetest sound . I played in a bluegrass band in the 70's and my bandmate played the the 000-15 . It was, at that time the cheapest Martin , but to me sounded much better than their high end models. However , I have a Rogue acoustic that was $45 new , and it has a brilliant sound too. It's not the brand, it's the guitar.✌
Yes, we will be covering all production models including bench specs and performances. We will also be releasing a comprehensive tour of the factory and museum, stay tuned in the coming weeks. Thanks for watching!
I have a D 18 and find it terrific and better than a 00028EC I owned. What I am not sure is are more expensive Martins like the 45 or D 23 better in sound or just fancier and prettier? Thanks 😊
I have a 1994 HD-28, which I’ve loved for 30 years. Only problem is cosmetic, with the gloss finish peeling off the neck. Doesn’t affect fingering or play, just wished it hadn’t happened. Any ideas how or where I can get it refinished?
I’m struggling with arthritis and hand problems. I don’t need the money but I would like to sell my 1973 D-28. Very nice condition with original blue hard case. What is best way to sell?
I have a Martin J-41 that I received as a birthday gift and I’m having difficulty finding more information about them. I’ve not been able to find them on Martin’s website 🤷🏻♂️
The most important thing about a guitar is the top (and the top's bracing). I have been buying guitars since I was 12 in 1960. I went pro in 1964 and bought a 64 D-28 with Adirondack Spruce top and Brazilian Rosewood body (after tone-tapping the tops of dozens of guitars at Sam Ash in Manhattan I found it in the basement) and a 64 sunburst Stratocaster (original cost $303 + $50 for the case - now apparently worth $40,000). I've had scores of guitars through my life, but the only 3 Martins I still have are that 64 D-28, a 1948 D-18 (my birthdate) in Mahogany and Adirondack Spruce (I prefer the less brash and bright sound of Mahogany over Rosewood, which is the king when it comes to Bluegrass) & an 1894 New York Model parlor guitar I found for $20.00 in a pawn shop in Laredo, Texas while on tour. Any modern acoustic I buy now is from a custom luthier made to my specs. One thing you should make clear is that wood is not wood is not wood! Wood even from the same tree can vary considerably in tone, vibration & sustain. Brazilian Rosewood & Adirondack spruce show up from old caches on occasion, but are both endangered. Two tops made from the same tree will tone-tap differently. The two most common types of Spruce used today are Engelmann (from the US Rockies & Northwest) & Sitka (from Alaska). Englemann is lighter and vibrates better - the overtones produced are stronger and richer than they are with Sitka spruce. It’s a more complex tone and the midrange is stronger too - giving a smoother, more nuanced sound. It’s a less compressed sort of sound too because of those extra vibrations. Ceder is popular because it is similar to Spruce. Sometimes you can find new guitars made by custom luthiers using "sinker" Brazilian Rosewood or Adirondack Spruce - wood salvaged from a sunken ship that has lain on the bottom of a cold water lake like the Great Lakes for 50 to 100 years. In other cases, custom luthiers have old stashes of Braz & Adirondack for special one-offs. I have one that is a perfect replica of the late 1933/early 1934 D-28 - the Stradavarius of Martins (my grandchild is going to inherit it just about the time the wood fully opens up and comes into its own. Hurricane Camille recently blew down a mature Adirondack Spruce tree in North Carolina. A young female luthier in England was tipped off & she bought it (it's legal as long as it came down naturally). Expect some extraordinary custom guitars from her (hers usually cost from $5,000 to $36,000, though & the guitars from this tree are going to be on her higher end of the price scale). Once you get into the esoterica of woods and tones, 99% of an audience can't tell from your sound what wood your guitar is made from anyway. Especially with electronics thrown into the mix and a whole band playing. Two months ago, I heard Bruce Cockburn playing a solo concert on a Linda Manzer (a top luthier from Ontario) green guitar (I have one, as do Cockburn, who has at least 2, Paul Simon, Carlos Santana, and Pat Metheny - 1 a year for 25 years - and many other players). Cockburn isn't the voice or player he was in his youth, but the pure tone of that guitar had me smiling for days. The qualities are subtle enough in similar guitars that you are really only paying for better wood & construction for your own ear & that of other ear-trained musicians around you. For a beginner or even early-intermediate, I suggest a new or used guitar at a lower price - in good shape from one of a dozen brands - or some of the extraordinary $200/$300 acoustics coming out of China (be careful, there's also a LOT of garbage - do your research). What you want to concentrate on is ease of playability with low, clean action and pleasing tone with no fret buzz or choking when you bend a string. More beginners give up guitar because it's not easy to play (say, too high action or buzzing frets or wrong gauge strings or lack of decent intonation or inability to stay in tune, than anything else). The name on the headstock is the least of my concerns when evaluating individual guitars. A hint: if you are getting a Nitrocellulose gloss guitar, spring an extra few bucks to have a luthier sand off the Nitro from the back & sides of the neck & wax it for smoother sliding up and down the neck, unless you are one of those players who believe "nobody ever made a living above the 5th fret" & just want to play "cowboy chords" to accompany your singing. I guess I'm too late for the Les Paul giveaway, but I have a new Les Paul Custom coming from my luthier tomorrow after he refinished several uneven frets (Gibson's QC has gone way downhill of late) and completely re-wired it the Jimmy Page 4-push-pull-500k-pot mod and a treble bleed on the bridge pickup to allow splitting either coil in either or both pickups, reversing polarity & selecting between serial & parallel.
Ive had quite a few guitars gibson humming bird a taylor blueridge but nothing sounds like a martin. I settled in 2003 on a hd 28 v and that has been my guitar since but it needed a little shop time recently and i found a 1980 D 35 that i fell in love with tone wise and ive acquired a d 41 as well at some point ill round out my collection with a vintage d18
I have a Martin Gt-70 electric guitar my dad bought used in 1970. I’m looking for a price as I haven’t performed with it since 1998 for one job and hadn’t been used since 1971 when I bought my 1st Les Paul
Just looking to sell/trade for a Rickenbacker bass guitar. I’m now playing bass and not happy with my Jazz basses. I guess as you get older you get very particular about your sound. ( guess I should be very particular ) NOW lol
I bought a GPC OOO road series special from MF. It is solid wood sapele b&S spruce top and ebony fretboard and bridge. Great snappy tone machine. Single cutaway with fishman electronics. Only $699 from the Mexican factory.
I'm looking at a 00-28. Wish they'd do a proper authentic xbrace joint in the standard series. I really don't know what's stopping them, all of the brands copying them do it better.
I own a Martin 0-18 and love it bought 6 years ago. I was looking at the Martin OM-42 and for $6399.00 they use plastic bridge pins and tusq saddle which is still another form of plastic. Martin standard series should all have either unbleached or bleached cow bone nut, saddle. And the bridge pins should be either real ebony wood or cow bone or water Buffalo horn or fossil walrus ivory or mammoth ivory. The standard series is their high end except if you order a custom model. For that amount of money you can order a custom from an luthier in USA with triple AAA+ 30 year old graded wood. With more wood combinations. Plus get a Spanish Heel Construction which is superior over the Dovetail construction. Martin guitar's are wonderful but the new owner of Martin guitar's is cutting corners to save monies and still have higher prices. I would not buy a Taylor guitar's because they use bolts to connect the body to the fretboard.
@johnoffutt898 I pretty much agree with you. My 2 Martin 6 strings both have bone nuts and bridge. The pins I'm not certain about.. Also have a 12 string Martin but I will have to look to see. Enjoyed your post!
I own a 2006 D -28. also know a Gentleman who owns a 1935 I think it is also a D-28 can't remember. Martin that his Dad bought for him brand new in 1935. I last talked to him at my Dad's funeral in 2008 so he might even be gone now.
Hi I have an HD 28 but it has an Adirondack top and sounds amazing. But you didn’t talk about this model with the addi top. Can I get your thoughts? I want to change the tuner keys to gold but not sure which brand or style to get. Please any advice? Thanks!!!
I think most guitars coming into market, even Eastman whom I really like, are sending guitars in to stores that play like a dobro. Why not chocolate, strawberry and vanilla? Stores can order very low action, medium action or high action. And let the public decide what sells the best!
i am looking for a 12 string acoustic thats not thousands but I want one that is easy on the fingers and is one that will last a lifetime. any suggestions to try out?
I own a 68 "S" D-28 1 fret/slotted neck. SN 255xxx. Custom built in Nazereth PA. I am trying to attain information of the potential one of a kind guitar.
I don’t know the Martin nomenclature. Where’s the D14 in all this. I’m seeing these around appointed very differently with prices all over the map. Someone explain please.
so , I went to buy the D41 a few years back and it was the new re-imagined, I almost threw it to the ceiling taking it out of the case it was so light... but I didn't buy it because it sounded horribly flat, a $600 Guild sounded way better. I have always loved Martins I have an old DR and D-18 the reason why I wanted to upgrade it was time... but that soured me on spending $6k on something the felt like it was made from Balsa wood.. did I just happen to come across either a fake or something else. its not like you can play 20 different D41's at the store it's hard enough finding one. when I bought The DR I played 20 + of those and it actually sounds better than the D18... so, two things, Am I just stuck looking for an older D41 (without spending extra on making a custom) and 2 what actually is the DR considered a 15, 16 17 or something else entirely..
I am left handed and ordered a Martin. It came, Made in Mexico, says so on the serial number label. It is POS, the neck is so rough I can use it as an Emery Board for my fingernails. Oposed to my Taylors. Made in Cupertino California, says so on the Serial Number Label. I play them, excellent quality.
@@grog5564 only certain models are made in Mexico it's not dependent on the the right or left hand. What model is it..the model you selected if it was right handed would be made usually in the same factory in Mexico. I went to the Martin Factory in Pa to take mine in for some repairs.There is a little room with the basically budget guitars in there for people to try.The D18 Satin and 00-18 all mahogany sounded very good for the money but the original Martin reputation is in the Authentic Series (not the Indian Rosewood versions)
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Thank you Thank You Thank You. I
This is by far the best and clearest explanation and clarification that I have seen on the breakdown of Martin guitars. Great teacher!
I am on my way today to purchase another Martin. I have a 53 year old D28 , and would like a model that is more forgiving of my old fingers..Lol. A 15,16,17 may be the answer.
I own a 1965 D35-B (original owner), third one made. Still in pristine shape, and has such a deep, warm, full sound. Still love this model over all my other acoustics.
I'll take a couple of thousand extra dollars and trade you my 1964 Stratocaster!
Just want you to know I’m envious of both of you 😂
And if you did an honest "blind ear" test and compared it to my pathetic $200 foreign no-name (purchased in 1991), you would be hard-pressed to declare your Martin superior. I have done "the test" several times and my "beater" guitar wins these sound contests. It's a "Samick" in case that matters. Here's the rub. Your Martin will feel better in the hands -- way better than my Samick.
Very thorough and well explained. Great video. I never knew that thing about the suffix number on Martins.
I chose the D35 years before I got one. Plain styling but nice materials and construction. The sound is delicious. So solid, full and measured.
Just bought my first. At 39 years old I've wanted one since I was 14 but I'm just a home player. Picked up a 1973 D18 last weekend
May I ask the condition, and what you paid for it?
@seadeas Fantastic condition. Some evidence of playing around the sound hole and that's all. $2200
congrats! I should have mine next year ")
@freedomvan2970 I bet you don't remain a home player!
I am 73, and I play 2 or 3 times a week in Florida.. I have 3 Martin's
and I used to play Gibson Acoustics.. I love my 00015M, and I think for the money, it's the most versatile...
When I was your age I would have died to own a D18!! Hope you enjoy it for another 39 years...
BTW do you ever write songs?
That's what I do most of the time
but I do about 40% cover songs..
congrats sir
I have a Martin D35 that I bought new in 1986, and I also have a Martin Dreadnaught Junior that I bought in 2021. I am a real Martin fan.
I have a D42 I bought new in 2002 and it just seems to keep getting better. I love Martin guitars. Thanks for the video!
Plz tell me is it worth the money?
I'm lucky enough to have a 1998 D42K (koa back and sides) and it is spectacular. Warm, articulate and balanced. Best acoustic I've ever played and I've played a lot
I have a 1968 D-35 , Martin said it was the last year, they used Brazilian Rosewood
It was the last FULL year, because they cut over to Indian Rosewood in the middle of 1969 sometime.
My '69 D-28 was made early in the year and is Braillian.
Hi my friend, and thank you for the video. Obviously the SC implies single cut. I (with a very rare exception) buy only American made. But the single cut is more appealing to me from someone that may want to do lead work. I'm not at the level of many of the great musicians that have owned these fine instruments but can certainly hold my own. In 1989 the producer of a song I was doing in Nutmeg Studios (1989 NYC) literallity wouldn't let me play my personal acoustic guitar. I won't say what I was playing because to do so would be in bad taste, but it wasn't junk. He told me to use this 1950's Martin that he just had there in the studio. It had to belong to him. Even then, who had something of that level? I got spoiled by a Martin circa the 1950's as I remember. I'm a lot older now, so the specific year, I have forgotten over time.The producer had a whole story of how before they were purchased or taken over by whoever, this guitar was made and all the tings that made it the best ever lol. But it was old as hell even then and it sounded like I'd imagine God would want his guitar to sound. I was even scared to touch it. I'd like a single cut Martin that isn't foreign made. I have no prejudice at all but I live where I do, and would prefer the money I spend stays in the United States if at all possible. Thank you so much for the detail and understanding of the models. The one I need is not from where I would purchase. Especially given the disclaimers earlier in the post in terms of wood etc. Please forgive any typos. I'm slightly rushed at the moment.
Thanks for this very informative summary of the features of the different models. It confirmed for me that I made the right choice 52 years ago (1972) when I bought a new 1971 D-28 to step up from my nylon-string student/beginner guitar. I still figure the D-28 is my "forever" guitar, and I haven't bought any others in all those years except for a D12-28 to add a 12-string to my collection. Still not in the market for any more guitars......
This has been very helpful for me, considering a Martin lately. Just haven't bonded with my Taylor. I know you are focused on purely acoustic tone here, but I would like to see a breakdown of Martins that also have pickups. Thanks for posting, subscribed.
Taylors started out with some great guitars, but, as they have begun mass producing them, they have become problematic.
I bought a Road Series 000-12 Koa and it is an amazing guitar !!! I keep the old 00-18G and the OM 21 in their cases most of the time and play the Road Series !
But I have a Blueridge 12 Fret they blows them all away !
I have a D35 Martin., 1968. I bought it from a guy’s brother, who used to play it on the Honky Tonk circuit, in that area. He wore a big bull riders belt buckle, and you can see where he laid it on his belt buckle, as he played over the years. Still very beautiful…
Dude you explained things very well, better than any video I've ever seen to date. I'm only 7mins into it and I've learned a ton about Martins so far from this video and others on your channel. If I were to spoil myself I'd go with a 45 but a 28 is more than enough for me. I wonder why they never made a D-38 Special. Now that sounds sweet. Just kidding . . . actually no I'm not. It does sound like a killer model number.
Buying my first martin today. Used D10e. Only have played seagull and Taylor this far so excited to venture to Martin now. Thanks for the video this was helpful
My 2021 D-18 standard is just an absolute cannon. Well constructed and a tone that’s sweet as pie.
Any issues with the binding yet?
The most beautiful sounding guitars I have ever played.
D-42 and d-42 koa and the 00-15sm are incredible.
Dream guitars.
Nice to see a left hander behind you. Martin don't charge extra for LH. Actually, the Martin J is bigger and easily as loud as a D and has excellent balance (I have an M40 and an HD35 so I so speak from experience). Regarding, tone, the break point is actually at 35, not 28, because the 3 piece back and 1/4 inch bracing create a whole different tone. There is even an argument that there is tonal difference at the 40 point, because the J40 comes with scalloped bracing (which you don't touch on, but should - everyone should play and D28 and an HD 28 before choosing) as standard. There's no D36 (that's a D35 you got hold of there) except as a custom. There is an M36 (also with a 3 piece back). Ms are great, too. Otherwise, this is the best comparison review I have seen, especially for the new buyer. In particular, you are right on the money with finish. You have to play both and also understand the likely future of the two. A satin guitar simply does not have the same durability as full gloss. Personally, I also don't like how satin guitars sound because you get more body noise (where your body touches the guitar) especially plugged in. As I say, this is the best guide for the beginning guitar buyer, bar none. You can't go wrong with a Martin. I happen to regret the decision to go with HPL (they could have gone with low price solid wood like birch instead), but even these are great guitars. Martin consistently beat the competition, and you do a great job of introducing us to their range.
I 've got a martn D15 that I bought second hand 20 yrs.ago,I don't play much but I just drool over it so proud that I bought it without knowing how good the guitar is.
I’m in the market for a Martin. Your guide is great and timely! Thanks. 🙏
See my post. Having to get the binding repaired is a real drag!
I own several Martins. I’m a lefty and appreciate Martin for offering all their models in lefty.
I own a 00012-16 CE Nylon, 0-18, a 000-28 EC, a 1991D28S, and a D45.
The 0-18 Mahogany and spruce is BY FAR, my favorite to play.
It’s small but very loud . Actually, when fingerpicking, the 0-18 is actually LOUDER than my D28 and 45. With a pick, it’s very different. The larger guitars shine. There is NOTHING like a Martin guitar.
Terrific explanation. I recently bought my first Martin. I jumped in by buying a used D-18 model (made in Nazareth in 2019). I couldn't be happier. I wanted the beautiful sound, the quality, the prestige and the company history of a Martin. I got everything I wanted. I agree with you: Above the D-18 ($$-wise) the extra money buys bling. I don’t have anything against bling, except that I just don't want to pay for it, especially for my first and only acoustic guitar. Thanks for this fantastic video. I learned far more from your video than I learned during my Martin factory tour in June. ❤
Congratulations, that's a beautiful guitar! If you call Martin's customer support they recommend waxing the fretboard and the bridge (as they don't have a finish) at least once a year. They told me to use Dr. Duck's AxWax. Play on!
@@mikedovsky Thanks. I ordered some Dr. Duck's AxWax from Amazon.
@@tomdaoust Nice! I tried to add a link but couldn't. Do a youtube search on: Cleaning and Polishing your Guitar
There is a Martin guy giving a good cleaning demo.
Great review!
BTW , the 0-18, 00-18, 000-18 & D-18 have Genuine Mahogany back & sides as listed in the specifications. Genuine Mahogany is Honduran Mahogany and is one of the highest quality and most expensive types of mahogany. Other models that are listed as Mahogany back & sides are not made with Honduran Mahogany.
Thanks !!! I was confused . Because at that price something have to be different and special . Now I go for one of the 18 🌹
This is the 1st vid I have seen like this where every model is explained.
You easily earned my sub sir!
Very informative video, thanks. Would you consider doing a similar video on Lowden acoustic guitars?
I’m thinking about picking up a D10E this summer, I’ve played a couple and they sound so, so good to me
Choose very carefully and pay attention to the neck angle, get the guys in the shop to set it up for you
Plz buy d18 it is heaven
Yesterday I bought my first Martin guitar. Based on your advice I made a great choice. I bought a 2019 D-18 in mahogany. I haven’t bought a guitar since 1969 when I bought a Mosrite sunburst combo hollow body electric. I’m delighted with my D-18 choice. Thanks for your great explanations. Can I get the charts you showed?
I have the same guitar.
I really like the current SC Martins. They're priced under 2k, give you easy access to upper frets and sound great!
I have a Road Series SC13-E Special Bursrt. i love it the neck/fingerboard is so nice. I’ve had multiple hand and wrist surgery’s.Because of smaller size you loose some of the deeper tone and I change the electronics to LR Baggs Anthem. Played through a Fishman Performer for gigs. With a Boss Ad-10 really bring out the tone in a room. $2000. I had the bridge slowed and installed liquid metal pins flipped around no slot, sustain is incredible.
Slotting with reveresed ebony bridge pins does wonders too 9:14
I also have a D-12 35. Probably 1971 so I'm told. Don't play on it much and haven't since I got it in 1975. The neck is easy to play on. And the volume is stupendous. Very much like my 0012
This was excellent. Thank you. I'm trying to decide between an SC 10 and an SC 13. 🤔
I’ve had my 1978 D28 since 1979…it’s been wonderful to own and play….looking to get a Custom Shop 000-28 possibly…or an Eric Clapton 000-28….we’ll see…I like the traditional beauties…
My 1966 O-16 New Yorker was the first re-issue of an old classic (NY shop). It's a 16 with a satin top...mahogany and sitka, wide neck, slotted headstock.. I think they made them from '61-90 I guess it's sort of a custom build....sweet beyond belief....available....
It should be noted that trubbing against a satin finishes while strumming yields a scratchy sound (that some find a problem) which gloss finishes don't have. I find it especially annoying if a satin finish guitar doesn't have a pickguard because I always am always touching where the pg would be. Another issue with satin is it becomes glossy wherever you do rub against it so the finish often looks splotchy even just after a month of playing. This is generally where your arm rubs over the lower bass bout. Consider a satin finish carefully and play gloss counterparts to see/hear the difference.
Great info! The only detail left out is different nut widths... Pretty important spec for some players.
John,
Excellent video with great info about the best brand guitar in the world....Martin !! My wife bought me a D16GT for Christmas in 2001. I love this guitar. What model would you suggest if I want to get a better model for 2 reasons. Improved sound and reinvestment value. Thank you !!!!
Congrats thats awesome! My wife has a D16GTE, great guitar. I think the gold standards are still D-18 or D-28 in the Standard series, but the 16 series are true workhorse and performer guitars that are great. Thanks for watching
D16 GTR. IS an awesome choice
It's the D-35 not 36, and it does have a unique bracing on the inside that does change the sound. It would also be good to mention the H series which features herringbone binding, but also the scalloped bracing that you don't find on the typical D models until you get to the 40+ ones or the ones from the 30s.
Bought a Martin SC 13e, made in Mexico two years ago, for $!,600. Lots of problems! Just bought a Firefly acoustic electric, for $200. IMO, The Firefly outlooks, outplays and outsounds the Martin, HANDS DOWN. Never again will I let a brand name influence my buying decisions.
Theres your problem,buy american -made martins
Yeah cheap guitars are a lot better then they used to be.I would never pay thousands for any guitar,they just aren't that much better.
What kind of problems did you have? I just bought an x2 e 12 string for 950 Canadian dollars and think it’s fantastic! I hope I don’t have any problems with it.
Firefly and Harley Benton make extraordinary guitars (made in China, but the Firefly is sold out of San Francisco & the Harley Benton out of England which adds overseas shipping from the UK to the slightly higher price). I saw a comparison of the $216 Firefly FFSPS Elite (Les Paul Custom clone they used to call the FFLP) with a Gibson Les Paul Custom. They were originally going to compare it with the Gibson budget Epiphone $1000 Les Paul Custom, but it blew it away. It compared just about equally with the Gibson in tone & playability, and the Firefly was actually finished with fewer fit & finish problems. Older Firefly's used to have uneven height fret problems & you'd pay as much for the fret leveling as you did for the guitar - but its still a bargain. I have a Gibson ES-335 and just got a Firefly ES-335 from a cousin who has arthritis & stopped playing. I can hear the difference in the pickups, but they're damn close. Nobody I know who's not a musician can tell them apart with their eyes closed. How the Chinese can do this quality of work for just hundreds of dollars astounds me. I've lived in China 3 times as an IT consultant & seen how good their technology can be when they want to extend themselves (not the garbage they usually sell on Amazon). More than half of Elon Musk's Teslas are made just outside Shanghai, as are his batteries & he's building an even bigger auto assembly plant down the street there.
Now and then, Firefly drops a dozen or two FFLP or FFSP (the newer designation) on Amazon. They are bought up within hours & turn up on eBay at 3 times the price, mostly still unopened in original packaging, or with minor modifications, by flippers. You can sometimes find one at theguitarsgarden.com (their American headquarters). Their Strat & Tele clones are not quite as good, but give them a year. Their "Gibsons" & acoustics are good enough to gig with or bring into the studio. Stay away from Chibson or Grote and many other Chinese clones, some are real garbage & made to "normal" Amazon quality for the unknowing American market. Note: almost all the 5-star reviews on Amazon's cheap Chinese junk are fakes. Third-party companies exist to have hundreds of people buy cheap stuff & then return it to the manufacturer for resale - but they get to have "verified purchaser" next to their 5-star review - most of which are written by AI. Read the 1-star reviews first & if the same problems (usually with pictures) keep coming up, be warned.
I've owned at least 20. Wish I kept them all. '58 000-18, '59 D-28, '50 D-18, plus some newer ones- D-41, D-45, 000-42 to name
a few. Right now they have the modern deluxe series, I bought the 000-18 and 000-42. Those are as good in every way as
any I have had.
I've owned six Martins and still have 5. The D-35 I purchased in '79 has been well played and is on the rack. I traded my 000-28EC for a D-42 years ago. I have a '94 J-40 and I purchased the 000-42MD in November '23. I love it so much, when I saw the Martin CEO-10, I had to have it too. They're all fantastic! I need to slow down... Rock on, brother!
I have been loyal to Martin for awhile, but not after being disappointed by some rivals. I have arrived at a standard OM28 with a KnK mini installed. My beater is a modern 000 17 that I have already played the finish off. I dropped it. Now the side is cracked. If it gets too dry, a brace will rattle. I'm cautious with the 28, but I drive the wheels off the 17, and keep her out of the case most of the time. Fussing over gear is a muse killer for me. This guitar feels like good boots that are broke in.
I love my Yamaha FG830. A poor man's Martin. Also, my LL6M ARE is amazing. I am a huge fan of the models being made in the Navajo factory. That being said, the guitars made in Nazareth are awesome.
Yammies blow the entry level Martins from Mexico away.
So do Alvarez.
High end yamaha and alvarez/yairi are at least equal to Martins in the same price range IMO
I love my LL16D ARE.
Love my LS16
Thank you for this guide! I was hoping someone would make a Martin demystified video! 😊
Thank's 4 an excellent guide, I am seeking a left-handed D-28
what years started having a truss rod? Are the newer ones a two way truss rod?
I recently found this out. 1985 is when they started using truss rods instead of the reinforcement rods, and 2007 was the year they started implementing two way truss rods.
Well done video
I own an 018 a djr 10 and an lxk2 - love them all and your description of then was right on
Best guitar revieew/information channel on RUclips.
This was a detailed and incredibly helpful explanation of the Martin line! Thank you!
I've had my D35 since new in 1973 bought it new when i was young, it's pristine I'm thinking of selling it since at 71 arthritis is kinda taking it's toll. Time to let someone else love this guitar.
Where you from? I was born in 73, been looking at those years Martin's D-18/D-28 & D-35
I am 69, perfect for me if you decide to part with it. I would hold as an investment
I have three Martins. A 98 D35, An LX1E for teaching, and an S1 Ukulele. I’ve owned vintage and new, been to the factory 4 times, bought sold traded around 20 Martins since 2003. Ive owned or played almost every model. I’ve driven from Winnipeg to Nashville to trade a Martin. I’ll tell you, shoulder issues made me sell some great guitars. Just find a way to use a strap and drape it over your right leg vs holding it normally. Smaller guitars just don’t have the boom and the sustaining bass for my music. Truss rods are nice. I’ve had 4 neck resets done on various guitars over the years. I like Martins but also like Gibsons. I bought an Emerald carbon fiber for all the situations I wouldn’t want to put my wood guitars through
000-15 has the sweetest sound . I played in a bluegrass band in the 70's and my bandmate played the the 000-15 . It was, at that time the cheapest Martin , but to me sounded much better than their high end models. However , I have a Rogue acoustic that was $45 new , and it has a brilliant sound too. It's not the brand, it's the guitar.✌
OM and OOO are the same body size, difference is in scale length snd for some nut width.
OM has deeper, thicker body.
Is there a RUclips channel that covers Martin acoustic guitars like Trogly does for Gibson guitars?
Yes, we will be covering all production models including bench specs and performances. We will also be releasing a comprehensive tour of the factory and museum, stay tuned in the coming weeks. Thanks for watching!
I have a D 18 and find it terrific and better than a 00028EC I owned. What I am not sure is are more expensive Martins like the 45 or D 23 better in sound or just fancier and prettier? Thanks 😊
SUPERBLY explained. Thank you !
I got a OM-28 and like to practice more on my sc13-e. A lot of sound comes out of the sc13.
I have the d-16e and I love love that guitar I take it everywhere played a lot of shows with it !!
I wis[h you had included the differences of interior bracing of models . My 1994 HD282R Herringbone has foward bracIng and my 1978 D28 does not.
I’m thinking of selling/trading one of my guitars for a Martin, the guitar plays and sounds great.
I have a 1994 HD-28, which I’ve loved for 30 years. Only problem is cosmetic, with the gloss finish peeling off the neck. Doesn’t affect fingering or play, just wished it hadn’t happened. Any ideas how or where I can get it refinished?
I’m struggling with arthritis and hand problems. I don’t need the money but I would like to sell my 1973 D-28. Very nice condition with original blue hard case. What is best way to sell?
I have a Martin J-41 that I received as a birthday gift and I’m having difficulty finding more information about them. I’ve not been able to find them on Martin’s website 🤷🏻♂️
Excellent video, best in class. Thank you.
The most important thing about a guitar is the top (and the top's bracing). I have been buying guitars since I was 12 in 1960. I went pro in 1964 and bought a 64 D-28 with Adirondack Spruce top and Brazilian Rosewood body (after tone-tapping the tops of dozens of guitars at Sam Ash in Manhattan I found it in the basement) and a 64 sunburst Stratocaster (original cost $303 + $50 for the case - now apparently worth $40,000). I've had scores of guitars through my life, but the only 3 Martins I still have are that 64 D-28, a 1948 D-18 (my birthdate) in Mahogany and Adirondack Spruce (I prefer the less brash and bright sound of Mahogany over Rosewood, which is the king when it comes to Bluegrass) & an 1894 New York Model parlor guitar I found for $20.00 in a pawn shop in Laredo, Texas while on tour. Any modern acoustic I buy now is from a custom luthier made to my specs.
One thing you should make clear is that wood is not wood is not wood! Wood even from the same tree can vary considerably in tone, vibration & sustain. Brazilian Rosewood & Adirondack spruce show up from old caches on occasion, but are both endangered. Two tops made from the same tree will tone-tap differently. The two most common types of Spruce used today are Engelmann (from the US Rockies & Northwest) & Sitka (from Alaska). Englemann is lighter and vibrates better - the overtones produced are stronger and richer than they are with Sitka spruce. It’s a more complex tone and the midrange is stronger too - giving a smoother, more nuanced sound. It’s a less compressed sort of sound too because of those extra vibrations. Ceder is popular because it is similar to Spruce. Sometimes you can find new guitars made by custom luthiers using "sinker" Brazilian Rosewood or Adirondack Spruce - wood salvaged from a sunken ship that has lain on the bottom of a cold water lake like the Great Lakes for 50 to 100 years. In other cases, custom luthiers have old stashes of Braz & Adirondack for special one-offs. I have one that is a perfect replica of the late 1933/early 1934 D-28 - the Stradavarius of Martins (my grandchild is going to inherit it just about the time the wood fully opens up and comes into its own. Hurricane Camille recently blew down a mature Adirondack Spruce tree in North Carolina. A young female luthier in England was tipped off & she bought it (it's legal as long as it came down naturally). Expect some extraordinary custom guitars from her (hers usually cost from $5,000 to $36,000, though & the guitars from this tree are going to be on her higher end of the price scale).
Once you get into the esoterica of woods and tones, 99% of an audience can't tell from your sound what wood your guitar is made from anyway. Especially with electronics thrown into the mix and a whole band playing. Two months ago, I heard Bruce Cockburn playing a solo concert on a Linda Manzer (a top luthier from Ontario) green guitar (I have one, as do Cockburn, who has at least 2, Paul Simon, Carlos Santana, and Pat Metheny - 1 a year for 25 years - and many other players). Cockburn isn't the voice or player he was in his youth, but the pure tone of that guitar had me smiling for days. The qualities are subtle enough in similar guitars that you are really only paying for better wood & construction for your own ear & that of other ear-trained musicians around you. For a beginner or even early-intermediate, I suggest a new or used guitar at a lower price - in good shape from one of a dozen brands - or some of the extraordinary $200/$300 acoustics coming out of China (be careful, there's also a LOT of garbage - do your research). What you want to concentrate on is ease of playability with low, clean action and pleasing tone with no fret buzz or choking when you bend a string. More beginners give up guitar because it's not easy to play (say, too high action or buzzing frets or wrong gauge strings or lack of decent intonation or inability to stay in tune, than anything else). The name on the headstock is the least of my concerns when evaluating individual guitars.
A hint: if you are getting a Nitrocellulose gloss guitar, spring an extra few bucks to have a luthier sand off the Nitro from the back & sides of the neck & wax it for smoother sliding up and down the neck, unless you are one of those players who believe "nobody ever made a living above the 5th fret" & just want to play "cowboy chords" to accompany your singing.
I guess I'm too late for the Les Paul giveaway, but I have a new Les Paul Custom coming from my luthier tomorrow after he refinished several uneven frets (Gibson's QC has gone way downhill of late) and completely re-wired it the Jimmy Page 4-push-pull-500k-pot mod and a treble bleed on the bridge pickup to allow splitting either coil in either or both pickups, reversing polarity & selecting between serial & parallel.
Ive had quite a few guitars gibson humming bird a taylor blueridge but nothing sounds like a martin. I settled in 2003 on a hd 28 v and that has been my guitar since but it needed a little shop time recently and i found a 1980 D 35 that i fell in love with tone wise and ive acquired a d 41 as well at some point ill round out my collection with a vintage d18
I have a Martin Gt-70 electric guitar my dad bought used in 1970. I’m looking for a price as I haven’t performed with it since 1998 for one job and hadn’t been used since 1971 when I bought my 1st Les Paul
Just looking to sell/trade for a Rickenbacker bass guitar. I’m now playing bass and not happy with my Jazz basses. I guess as you get older you get very particular about your sound. ( guess I should be very particular ) NOW lol
I bought a GPC OOO road series special from MF. It is solid wood sapele b&S spruce top and ebony fretboard and bridge. Great snappy tone machine. Single cutaway with fishman electronics. Only $699 from the Mexican factory.
I have a ooo 15 and have my eye on the ooo 17 black smoke. How much of a difference is there? I would like to have both cause I love my ooo 15.
best guitar channel🎸
So what would be the optimal Martin guitar regarding price and performance?
What is a 1996 Martin MTV1 Unplugged worth? Maybe played 5 times at most. Has just been in it's case for years... like new
I'm looking at a 00-28. Wish they'd do a proper authentic xbrace joint in the standard series. I really don't know what's stopping them, all of the brands copying them do it better.
My number one pick would be a D-18 for it's simple aesthetics but great tone
It is a preference, but the 28 just has crisper high and a much punchier bass from rosewood. But I feel you, I love them 18s.
I own a Martin 0-18 and love it bought 6 years ago. I was looking at the Martin OM-42 and for $6399.00 they use plastic bridge pins and tusq saddle which is still another form of plastic. Martin standard series should all have either unbleached or bleached cow bone nut, saddle. And the bridge pins should be either real ebony wood or cow bone or water Buffalo horn or fossil walrus ivory or mammoth ivory. The standard series is their high end except if you order a custom model. For that amount of money you can order a custom from an luthier in USA with triple AAA+ 30 year old graded wood. With more wood combinations. Plus get a Spanish Heel Construction which is superior over the Dovetail construction. Martin guitar's are wonderful but the new owner of Martin guitar's is cutting corners to save monies and still have higher prices. I would not buy a Taylor guitar's because they use bolts to connect the body to the fretboard.
@johnoffutt898 I pretty much agree with you. My 2 Martin 6 strings both have bone nuts and bridge. The pins I'm not certain about.. Also have a 12 string Martin but I will have to look to see.
Enjoyed your post!
Hi you didn’t talk about the HD28 with the Adirondack top. Please do so thanks.
I own a 2006 D -28. also know a Gentleman who owns a 1935 I think it is also a D-28 can't remember. Martin that his Dad bought for him brand new in 1935. I last talked to him at my Dad's funeral in 2008 so he might even be gone now.
This is a great video. Thanks for breaking this all down!
Hi John! Could you talk about my Martin D -!6 M 496393 1975(?) What is your value nowadays? Thank you very much for the information.
This is such an informative video, well done!
Hi
I have an HD 28 but it has an Adirondack top and sounds amazing. But you didn’t talk about this model with the addi top. Can I get your thoughts? I want to change the tuner keys to gold but not sure which brand or style to get. Please any advice? Thanks!!!
Just subscribed!!!
Isn't there a difference in bracing between the 41 and 42?
Great video really helped clarify things for me
Martin definitely needs more recognition , quality and what's the word context.
I have a couple of Martins. Do you sell resonators?
I have a R-17 built in 1942, Arch-top. Sounds great but low I volume
I think most guitars coming into market, even Eastman whom I really like, are sending guitars in to stores that play like a dobro. Why not chocolate, strawberry and vanilla? Stores can order very low action, medium action or high action. And let the public decide what sells the best!
i am looking for a 12 string acoustic thats not thousands but I want one that is easy on the fingers and is one that will last a lifetime. any suggestions to try out?
HD 28 not mentioned.
I own a 68 "S" D-28 1 fret/slotted neck. SN 255xxx. Custom built in Nazereth PA. I am trying to attain information of the potential one of a kind guitar.
I don’t know the Martin nomenclature. Where’s the D14 in all this. I’m seeing these around appointed very differently with prices all over the map. Someone explain please.
In simplest terms....D stands for Dreadnought. 14 is the number of Frets at the top of the body.
@@jasonodell79er ...And D-18, 28, etc.?
Ive got a 1936 R-18. Still sounds sweet
so , I went to buy the D41 a few years back and it was the new re-imagined, I almost threw it to the ceiling taking it out of the case it was so light... but I didn't buy it because it sounded horribly flat, a $600 Guild sounded way better. I have always loved Martins I have an old DR and D-18 the reason why I wanted to upgrade it was time... but that soured me on spending $6k on something the felt like it was made from Balsa wood.. did I just happen to come across either a fake or something else. its not like you can play 20 different D41's at the store it's hard enough finding one. when I bought The DR I played 20 + of those and it actually sounds better than the D18... so, two things, Am I just stuck looking for an older D41 (without spending extra on making a custom) and 2 what actually is the DR considered a 15, 16 17 or something else entirely..
Is a jumbo not louder than a dread ?
this was awesome , thanks for the info...
Can you explain why there is no professional 000-15 Mahogany model?
I am left handed and ordered a Martin. It came, Made in Mexico, says so on the serial number label. It is POS, the neck is so rough I can use it as an Emery Board for my fingernails. Oposed to my Taylors. Made in Cupertino California, says so on the Serial Number Label. I play them, excellent quality.
Why did you pick the Martin Mexico..it's not a Martin.
@@merseybeat1963I did not pick it, if you are left handed you have to order a guitar to be made for you. That is where Martin had it made.
@@grog5564 only certain models are made in Mexico it's not dependent on the the right or left hand. What model is it..the model you selected if it was right handed would be made usually in the same factory in Mexico.
I went to the Martin Factory in Pa to take mine in for some repairs.There is a little room with the basically budget guitars in there for people to try.The D18 Satin and 00-18 all mahogany sounded very good for the money but the original Martin reputation is in the Authentic Series (not the Indian Rosewood versions)
Excellent guide, thank you
Thanks helped a lot knowing what’s what
Nice Marshal Half Stack ya got there!
I like Martin guitars but the price increases over the last 3 years is too much. I’ll just buy used guitars from now on.
So we should avoid D because it is loud but unbalanced?