Great video. Your persistence with this lathe is just unbelievable. What an amazing young man you are. I am enjoying watching your journey, and wish you great success. Ciao, Marco.
Enjoying these videos and watching your progress on figuring out the older cnc equipment! I'll be going thru a similar journey in a few years so this is good primer!
Tig weld drilmaterial on your jaws . That will work . Or weld a blok on you're parting tool for more length. It 's not that you need to cut big . And you wil clean the face up anyway. Pations and thinking out of the box is what I see . I like that . Have fun machining !
If you part off the part when it is clamped in main and sub, you might have less deformation on the sub spindle jaws - although your quite space limited, so you may need a long parting off tool
How bout orient the sub and then mill the square with the live tooling in the lathe so it's perfect? Just put a spacer in the jaws in the back were your not milling the square.? Just a thought ...didnt finish the video yet ether... so if I jumped ahead I'm sorry
@@split141x darn,,,hey ya know making 1 would be a really cool video! I would try plastic or aluminum first before spending money on cast iron. It's so cool between your lathe and mill and surface grinder you can make ANYTHING!!!! 😁
if you put indicator on main spindle and rotate the sub it reads 0. If you rotate main spindle it droops so the measurement is not valid. I dial in dead centers in a multitasking machine using indicator mounted straight on the jaw to not have any flex. An mptec mag base droopped about 0.2mm when extended all the way
Yea so I might not have explained it, but I never rotated the indicator due to gravity. If I do need get something concentric to the spindle I'll use a co ax indicator in the spindle. I can't use one here because of the shape of the inside of the sub spindle jaws, otherwise that would of been a bit more accurate. I guess I could of used one to hit the tops of the jaws, so maybe I'll do that next time.
Great video. Your persistence with this lathe is just unbelievable. What an amazing young man you are. I am enjoying watching your journey, and wish you great success. Ciao, Marco.
Appreciate it!
Enjoying these videos and watching your progress on figuring out the older cnc equipment! I'll be going thru a similar journey in a few years so this is good primer!
Holy..... I'm soooo glad i'm using CAD/CAM on everything with my mill and laithe.
Programming by hand feels archaic !
That's why getting a working post processor for old lathes can be a pain :P Mines still not done, and I've spent hours on it.
this channel is better than john saunders!
I love dah cnc
Tig weld drilmaterial on your jaws . That will work . Or weld a blok on you're parting tool for more length. It 's not that you need to cut big . And you wil clean the face up anyway. Pations and thinking out of the box is what I see . I like that . Have fun machining !
You'll like the next video then!
What about lowering chuck pressure so they don't mess up the jaws?
If you part off the part when it is clamped in main and sub, you might have less deformation on the sub spindle jaws - although your quite space limited, so you may need a long parting off tool
Yea this is mainly a part off blade length issue
What kind of rapids does that thing have?
1181 IPM
How bout orient the sub and then mill the square with the live tooling in the lathe so it's perfect? Just put a spacer in the jaws in the back were your not milling the square.? Just a thought ...didnt finish the video yet ether... so if I jumped ahead I'm sorry
Unfortunately none of the live tools face the sub.
@@split141x darn,,,hey ya know making 1 would be a really cool video! I would try plastic or aluminum first before spending money on cast iron. It's so cool between your lathe and mill and surface grinder you can make ANYTHING!!!! 😁
if you put indicator on main spindle and rotate the sub it reads 0. If you rotate main spindle it droops so the measurement is not valid. I dial in dead centers in a multitasking machine using indicator mounted straight on the jaw to not have any flex. An mptec mag base droopped about 0.2mm when extended all the way
Yea so I might not have explained it, but I never rotated the indicator due to gravity. If I do need get something concentric to the spindle I'll use a co ax indicator in the spindle. I can't use one here because of the shape of the inside of the sub spindle jaws, otherwise that would of been a bit more accurate. I guess I could of used one to hit the tops of the jaws, so maybe I'll do that next time.