I have an oil line coming into the pump from the oil filter and 1 line back from the pump to the oil filter where there is a nipple so I can bleed the line. Bleeding works yet I am not getting any fuel to the nozzle. So it seems the pump is working (because the bleeding is working) but the nozzle is not getting any fuel. I cleaned the lines from the pump to the nozzle. Only opened up the pump where the pump filter is sitting and it looked clean. Isn't that weird? Or is this something that could happen? thanks.
Have Sumter pump ,approximately 6to7years old ,have quite a drip of kerosene coming from under housing between motor and pump,reset new nozzle and electrodes and depth with Z gauge could seal in pump be going ,furnace seems to run ok except for drip when firing
Yes, it's very possible. Was it leaking before you serviced the burner? If not, it could be leaking at the fuel line right at the burner. Here is one way to find the fuel leak. Turn the burner off Clean inside the burner housing really good Pull off the fuel pump and wipe it really clean paying special attention to the area around the pump shaft and seal Next reassemble everything Turn on the power to the burner and as soon as your blower motor starts running a couple secs, turn it back off. Next remove your blower motor and take a look inside at the fuel pump seal. If it's not leaking, look down the burner blast tube and see if the fuel is running backwards along the bottom of the blasttube down to the weep hole. You may need to do this a couple of times. Just let the burner run longer each time. I hope this help! Let me know what you find!
Would you answer a question or two please ? I was up all night 05/30/2021. Oil burner would turn on then off then on again as if there was air in the lines or maybe a clogged nozzle. So I changed filter and nozzle, checked pump screen and then I could not get oil burner pump to fill up filter canister - I could not get oil to the burner. Pulled small copper fuel line that supplies oil to tube that has nozzle attached to it, has ceramic electrodes proper terminology escapes me at the moment, the gun I believe it is called(that has nozzle screwed into). Well, no oil was coming out of fuel line. Oil tank is piped with two pipes and not gravity fed. Fuel lines are coming out of the top of oil tank. I thought fuel lines were clogged so I got air compressor and blew the lines back to the oil tank. Approximately 100 lbs of pressure was used. I do not know how I finally got oil burner to run again but I did. Original symptoms are still happening. Fires up for a little then flutters then off and eventually during the same cycle burner turns back on (thank God)before lock out. I have a Suntec A2VA-7116 oil pump. The oil pump makes a squeek sometimes when it first starts up then the squeek goes away. I do use fuel additive when the Oil delivery man delivers the oil. This is like my third pump so far. The last oil pump I installed was 12/2019. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
Do you have a check valve on the supply line. This can help to prevent the fuel from migrating back to the tank when the burner is off for periods of time. This could take care of your problem.
I came across your video in my search for a fix. Sporadically my kerosine forced air Miller/ Beckett mobile home furnace rolls. Mostly upon start but also during a tstat cycle but not as often. Like; run, run, run. In between those runs is a milli second off condition. Hence my rolling description. I suspected air bubbles and tightened all connections on my 2 line system. Some say Im picking up bubbles from my return line in the tank because I shoved the intake line down so I wouldn't run dry due to a delivery foul-up. But it did run dry and It started ok after one reset of the safety switch, seemed all normal. I've been all through the electrical side of things, all, but still randomly is a daily, 2-3-4 times a day occurrence. Any insight on this as I did not see a problem with your pump demonstration...
I am converting an old hot power washer with a modern beckett burner. Not sure if i just need a regular return or the bypass set up. Not sure what single or dual pipe means.
If you are hooking up one fuel line to the fuel pump then do not install the bypass plug. If you are hooking up a supply line and a return line to the fuel pump then you will need to install the bypass plug into the fuel pump
I have a Beckett AFG burner; now made whinny noise for about 2 weeks and still functions. How can you tell which one is defective motor or Beckett Cleancut pump? If I can replace one I do not want to purchase both parts. Thanks for your help.
Hello, you can pull the coupling out between the motor and the fuel pump and put it back together and turn it on. That will allow you to hear the motor run without the fuel pump running! I hope this helps to isolate your issue
Dave Thomas Make sure fuel filter gasket is not leaking also check to make sure the burner coupling is not bad. If you have a hand pump, disconnect the inlet line from the burner and see if you can draw fuel up to that point.
I have never had any luck! Plus, for me it is best to replace it and not spend so much time rebuilding something which may need to be replaced anyway. This ensures lower repair costs for customers and no call backs for me!
@@furnacetech2581 My pump is a year old, replaced last year. Worked fine until recently, after bleeding the leak started. Afraid to overtighten and strip threads. Have removed bleeder and cleaned twice, no effect.
@@mattfoley6082 have you inspected inside the threads of the pump. I have never had leak on me to be honest and I have worked on a lot of burners. I know you may not have an old pump laying around. If you tell me the pump model number and email me your address, I can look through the spare pumps I have and possibly send you another bleeder.
You can adjust the fuel pressure with a flat head screwdriver just above the bleed port. Turn left to drop pressure and right to increase fuel pressure. Make sure you set the fuel pressure to the manufacturer specs with the correct sized nozzle!
I would always start with the fuel level in the tank before checking anything else. After that, The fuel should travel through a fuel valve. Then a fuel filter and possibly a check valve before it gets to the burner fuel pump. If your fuel valve is open and your fuel filter is clean. Check your burner coupling between your blower motor and your fuel pump.
Furnace Tech no it does not have sel valve, I have taken it all apart, cleaned it out. Same result, bleed valve. Strong output, still no fuel to the burner side??? Thanx for your fast reply.
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I have an oil line coming into the pump from the oil filter and 1 line back from the pump to the oil filter where there is a nipple so I can bleed the line. Bleeding works yet I am not getting any fuel to the nozzle. So it seems the pump is working (because the bleeding is working) but the nozzle is not getting any fuel. I cleaned the lines from the pump to the nozzle. Only opened up the pump where the pump filter is sitting and it looked clean.
Isn't that weird? Or is this something that could happen? thanks.
Pin is missing.
Pin is normally the first component to wear out which causes erratic oil pressure and pump shaft high spots or seizures.
thank you !
Thank you for the help!!!
Have Sumter pump ,approximately 6to7years old ,have quite a drip of kerosene coming from under housing between motor and pump,reset new nozzle and electrodes and depth with Z gauge could seal in pump be going ,furnace seems to run ok except for drip when firing
Yes, it's very possible.
Was it leaking before you serviced the burner?
If not, it could be leaking at the fuel line right at the burner.
Here is one way to find the fuel leak.
Turn the burner off
Clean inside the burner housing really good
Pull off the fuel pump and wipe it really clean paying special attention to the area around the pump shaft and seal
Next reassemble everything
Turn on the power to the burner and as soon as your blower motor starts running a couple secs, turn it back off.
Next remove your blower motor and take a look inside at the fuel pump seal. If it's not leaking, look down the burner blast tube and see if the fuel is running backwards along the bottom of the blasttube down to the weep hole.
You may need to do this a couple of times. Just let the burner run longer each time.
I hope this help! Let me know what you find!
Wondering if I can replace just the pump seal to avoid buying a new pump. Thanks , subscribed
Yes, you can replace the seal and strainer! Thank you for watching
Good job you're doing. What can cause the shaft of the pump to be stiff? Mine is stiff and doesn't turn freely why?
Dirty fuel or rust due to having water in the fuel system can cause the pump to fail
Great video. New sub
Exactly what I needed thank you very much!
Would you answer a question or two please ? I was up all night 05/30/2021. Oil burner would turn on then off then on again as if there was air in the lines or maybe a clogged nozzle. So I changed filter and nozzle, checked pump screen and then I could not get oil burner pump to fill up filter canister - I could not get oil to the burner. Pulled small copper fuel line that supplies oil to tube that has nozzle attached to it, has ceramic electrodes proper terminology escapes me at the moment, the gun I believe it is called(that has nozzle screwed into). Well, no oil was coming out of fuel line. Oil tank is piped with two pipes and not gravity fed. Fuel lines are coming out of the top of oil tank. I thought fuel lines were clogged so I got air compressor and blew the lines back to the oil tank. Approximately 100 lbs of pressure was used. I do not know how I finally got oil burner to run again but I did. Original symptoms are still happening. Fires up for a little then flutters then off and eventually during the same cycle burner turns back on (thank God)before lock out. I have a Suntec A2VA-7116 oil pump. The oil pump makes a squeek sometimes when it first starts up then the squeek goes away. I do use fuel additive when the Oil delivery man delivers the oil. This is like my third pump so far. The last oil pump I installed was 12/2019. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
Do you have a check valve on the supply line. This can help to prevent the fuel from migrating back to the tank when the burner is off for periods of time. This could take care of your problem.
Pump is shot, buy a new one
Hi Mister Great video. I like to know what cause bleeding every 3 days? I replaced my single stage. Thank you
If you have a leak in the fuel line, it can cause the system to need bleeding after extended periods off time.
@furnacetech2581 I'll be check. Thank you so much
Awesome information, can you tell me what size the small plug that goes inside is ? Thanks
I am not sure of the exact plug size. I get them with each fuel pump from the manufacture so I always have spares.
@@furnacetech2581 got ya “ I will find out cause I’m going to need one when I hook up the tiger loop I believe..?
I came across your video in my search for a fix. Sporadically my kerosine forced air Miller/ Beckett mobile home furnace rolls. Mostly upon start but also during a tstat cycle but not as often. Like; run, run, run. In between those runs is a milli second off condition. Hence my rolling description. I suspected air bubbles and tightened all connections on my 2 line system. Some say Im picking up bubbles from my return line in the tank because I shoved the intake line down so I wouldn't run dry due to a delivery foul-up. But it did run dry and It started ok after one reset of the safety switch, seemed all normal. I've been all through the electrical side of things, all, but still randomly is a daily, 2-3-4 times a day occurrence. Any insight on this as I did not see a problem with your pump demonstration...
I am converting an old hot power washer with a modern beckett burner. Not sure if i just need a regular return or the bypass set up. Not sure what single or dual pipe means.
If you are hooking up one fuel line to the fuel pump then do not install the bypass plug.
If you are hooking up a supply line and a return line to the fuel pump then you will need to install the bypass plug into the fuel pump
well explained.
Thank you sir 👍👍👍👍
I have a Beckett AFG burner; now made whinny noise for about 2 weeks and still functions. How can you tell which one is defective motor or Beckett Cleancut pump? If I can replace one I do not want to purchase both parts. Thanks for your help.
Hello, you can pull the coupling out between the motor and the fuel pump and put it back together and turn it on. That will allow you to hear the motor run without the fuel pump running! I hope this helps to isolate your issue
@@furnacetech2581 Thank you for good advice.
can i just remove and replace the whole pump or do i have to take it apart like a jigsaw puzzle ?
You can definitely replace the whole pump.
Dear Sir, my bunner stars about 5s then stop. What do i need to check, sir? Thanks You very much
Check the fuel solenoid and the flame sensor. These are possible culprits! I hope that helps!
Have good flow from tank to oil filter . When I open bleader valve just drips I replaced oil filter thinking pump is plugged?
Dave Thomas
Make sure fuel filter gasket is not leaking also check to make sure the burner coupling is not bad.
If you have a hand pump, disconnect the inlet line from the burner and see if you can draw fuel up to that point.
I'm experiencing the same thing. Did you figure it out.
once these things seize up that's it? just curious if anyone's ever managed to free up one that's locked up.
I have never had any luck! Plus, for me it is best to replace it and not spend so much time rebuilding something which may need to be replaced anyway. This ensures lower repair costs for customers and no call backs for me!
I had luck getting mine free but there is obviously a problem with it. It just don’t work like it needs to and I’m constantly messing with it.
My bleed valve leaks. I've cleaned the threads thoroughly to no effect. Suggestions?
If you have an old pump maybe try replacing it.
@@furnacetech2581 My pump is a year old, replaced last year. Worked fine until recently, after bleeding the leak started. Afraid to overtighten and strip threads. Have removed bleeder and cleaned twice, no effect.
@@mattfoley6082 have you inspected inside the threads of the pump. I have never had leak on me to be honest and I have worked on a lot of burners. I know you may not have an old pump laying around. If you tell me the pump model number and email me your address, I can look through the spare pumps I have and possibly send you another bleeder.
My email: furnacetech@hotmail.com
@@furnacetech2581 Did not inspect, just cleaned with qtip. Threads and bleeder appear to be clean. This has me stumped.
How do turn the heat for lower pressure?
You can adjust the fuel pressure with a flat head screwdriver just above the bleed port. Turn left to drop pressure and right to increase fuel pressure.
Make sure you set the fuel pressure to the manufacturer specs with the correct sized nozzle!
best is the best
my pump is working but he diesel is not coming to the burner could you explain to me that it can be
I would always start with the fuel level in the tank before checking anything else. After that, The fuel should travel through a fuel valve. Then a fuel filter and possibly a check valve before it gets to the burner fuel pump. If your fuel valve is open and your fuel filter is clean. Check your burner coupling between your blower motor and your fuel pump.
If you open the bleed port on the fuel pump, you should get a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles when the burner turns on.
@@furnacetech2581 what if the tank is full, and the pump bleeds great, just nothing comes out of the bunner line?? I cant get oil to the bunner!
@@mikebates7234 Does it have a fuel solenoid valve? Make sure it's getting power. You may have trash stuck inside the pump.
Furnace Tech no it does not have sel valve, I have taken it all apart, cleaned it out. Same result, bleed valve. Strong output, still no fuel to the burner side??? Thanx for your fast reply.
5:50 Teflon tape .. I thought that was a big no no.
Correct, NEVER use Teflon tape!