I really respect someone who freely admits their mistakes, especially without making excuses. Asking for help/advice is good too. All of this on video takes a lot of humility. Thanks for a great video, Andrew.
True, true. There is nothing wrong with admitting to your mistakes and asking for help and advice from someone else. I get it, I am no stranger to telling people that there was a misunderstanding and/or a mistake made.
You gave me hope of getting my 05 Honda Recon 250's rear differential back together. I did it all by myself with no hassle and even made my own special tool for the big pinion nut
Lol, i can almost see the paper he is reading from in this video. Been binge watching Andrews videos lately, so much more enjoyable than the crap on tv these days.
Hey Andrew! Michigan Mechanic Tip Brewed in NJ. This is how I've avoided buying fancy Internal Bearing Pullers.. Deep Creep by Seafoam First, Better than WD-40, PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench put together. Its 13$ a can, but WORTH IT. 1) Tap a lag anchor shield that fits in the I.D of the bearing in with a hammer 2) Tighten the associated bolt into the anchor, and spread anchor inside bearing (NO IMPACT you will stretch the case) 3) Give it a little torch love if you have it first, and pry it out with a pickle fork I Hope someone reads this and this helped anyone. Thanks for your awesome videos Andrew!
AvE did one before for a blind hole, where he used grease and rags and a punch/drift that was the same as the id of the bearing. The hydraulic force generated by packing in the grease coated rags and hammering the punch was enough to force the bearing out.
Sometimes you can force the pinion cage bearing out with hydraulic pressure . Find a piece of round stock or a punch slightly smaller that the ID of the bearing , ( same size as the male part of the pinion shaft ) wrap some Teflon tape to form a seal of sorts . Fill cavity with grease and usually a few taps will force the old bearing up & out of the case .
With that pinion bearing just heat the case up with a blow torch and then give it a tap on the bench and it will fall out. I love the angle iron tool 10/10
on that pinion bearing.... pack it full of grease or water soaked paper towel. Stuff some paper towel on top, pound a snug rod or dowel into the inner race hole. You will hydraulic the bearing out. As it moves pull the dowel, add more grease or soggy paper. Once grease/paper starts coming out the top hole you should have enough of the bearing exposed to grab it and yank it out - or use a lip puller.
Look for a lathe less than $800 Gear Drive is better than leather belt, even a cheap 7x10 harbor freight one will do - the 10x20 is a better choice. My Sheldon 1945 WQ 10x44 leather belt driven lathe is actually only a 10x22 in the chinese measuring system. So a Logan, Sheldon, South Bend, SIEG, Monarch, Columbus, G&E (Gould & Eberhardt), K&T (Kearney & Trecker) You can turn bar stock down to fit a bearing, the pack the hole with grease and blue paper towel. Lathe is also good for spinning things to sand them - comutators, brush rings, rusty shaft you need to clean to get bearing off. I use my lathe more for cleaning things than making things. To remove that roller pilot bearing Harbor Freight Item#63609 $23 14pc slide hammer set is the other way. www.walmart.com/ip/197284166 $38 is a 16pc pilot bearing puller set
Clean the casing thoroughly (to avoid stinking out the oven and kitchen), and pop it in the oven at 200C for 1/2 hour. The bearings will literally drop out. It's so easy, it's almost unbelievable!
Great video. Very entertaining. It's fun to watch someone work through a problem. im a mechanic and when sharing info about jobs, what not to do is usually the first and most important info being shared.
I love the voice overs, Im thinking of getting a quad for down at camp. Something to take the kids out for a rip on. You've widened my search to 20 year old quads because parts are still available. that disk brake kit is pretty slick too. I'm thinking Yamaha/Honda 400ish.
Like a pilot bushing, you pack it with grease and use something with a tight fit in the hole, when you pound it into the grease being forced into the hole it will pop it out, I have also heard of using bread to fill the hole for a less messy job. Hope this made sense.
I used all thread and welded it to that pilot bearing then put a steel plate across the top with a hole in the center. Used a nut and turned it down tight. As I tightened the nut it pulled outward on the pilot bearing. It finally popped out and I didn't use the retaining ring when I reassembled it. Thanks for the video.
Andrew, Buy yourself a few different diameters of copper rod like 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", maybe about 10" long and use them as drifts for knocking bearings and seals into place, even some lengths of nylon rod would also be handy.
This man don't have time to wait for a part to come in, hell he just makes him one.. His thought is someone put it together, and i can take it apart, just half to use a bigger hammer that's all.. He don't use grease to help set the bearing, just bang it in . I LOVE IT, NIce job
Now that is something I can get my head around. Very good my main man. I would never of guessed that angle iron for a tool and that made me smile. You never stop thinking do you. I found a way to see all of your videos and should get caught up in about a month or less cause Iwatch you a lot. I have made friends with a lot of youtube people and hope that you will be kind enough to allow me as a friend... I don't mean go have coffee or something, just this chat box. Thank you for your time
Fill the inside diameter of the bearing with grease insert a shaft as a makeshift piston hit the end of the shaft gently the hydraulic pressure should back the bearing out add more grease as needed. Great channel by the way!
Maybe a little heavy handed but it's fixed. Also a willingness and ability to work on an older unit like this gives you full license to hit it with a hammer all you want. Harbor freight has a cheap press for you that would look good along the wall. Great video as always thanks Andrew
to remove that small pinion bearing you're supposed to use a punch and push down in then use puller or whatever to get bearing out. there is a circlip around that bearing thats why there is a groove in the center. when you push down through hole it releases the circlip so bearing can come out
If a bearing is an "interference" fit, heat up the housing to expand it, and get your cooled bearing out of a freezer and it will tap right in. Same thing works for engine, cylinder liners, put them in the freezer and they go into an engine block correctly. If your bearing taps in too easily, make sure it goes in with loctite bearing mount ( amazing stuff). Now that differential appeared to run in grease and not oil, so you will also need to remember to inject (pack) grease into the bearings before install so they dont run dry. In fact there are now semi-fluid wheel bearing, synthetic grease exactly for this type of situation.
Great video, setting up the pinion pre load was missed & I didn't see any oil being refilled. Maybe off camera.reminds me of my refusal to buy special tools for one off jobs.
The pinion bearing with the blind hole, they make blind hole bearing puller set. It's an expandable collet with threads that connect to a slide hammer. I used it to pull the bearings on my yz 125 rebuild. They are pretty cheap on amazon I think I paid $25 just search blind hole bearing set
You had me rollin with the text (don't do this) as you did (this). LoL I can say my first go to impulse is to beat something out with a punch or screwdriver.
If you have an outside bearing race (Pressed into a bore) If you pull bearing apart so just the outer race remains. You weld around on the face of race (where bearings run) The weld will cool and shrink the race.
take a piece of 1.1/2" x 1.1/2" square tubing and it make's a great tool to get that nut out that holds the pinion bearing in, by the way look in that little hole and you will see a snap ring if you push it in the bearing will come out more easy
I don't know how i missed this video. With the small bearing you used the welder on. The secret is hydraulics. You put some thick grease down inside the hole of the bearing. Then take a rod same size as inner diameter of bearing with a sharp but not to hard a blow with hammer and it will pop right out.
Just saw your video here wondering if you know of any way to upgrade my 99 Foreman to a front disconnect and positive traction like the newer models have would prefer to do an electric setup if possible
Where the main bolt was tide in; Likekly on 2 small bareings. So you take out all the other stuff (as you do) and just screw back the bolt to small bareings and pull them out.
Stuff bread into the bearing. Find a shaft that fits the hole in the bearing and start pounding on it. Put more brad as needed. It will drive the bearing out without damage. Bread hydraulic.
we use to use a grease gun and pump grease into the center hole of throw out bearings. the grease pushed the bearing out from behind. maybe that would work in this situation also.
You’re welcome good luck, it might be worth getting that special tool for that one nut. this is still working five years later. Make sure you’re axles are in good shape and wheelbearings, I just had to do those.
With a small flat tip screwdriver. Bend the clip upwards, grab it with needle nose pliers. And just pull it out, bearing should slide right out. This is from a technical manual.
I'm pretty certain you put the side seals in backwards. The exposed metal side should go towards the bearing and the rubber overmolded side should be on the outside. Also, be careful about using old bearings as drivers for the new bearing, you don't want crud from the old bearing to contaminate the new bearing.
You can put them in either way, springs to outside lets over pressure out of the diff. When I converted a John Deere 544A to a greased rear axle pivot from diff oil lubed. Drilled the zerk fitting hole into the bushing/housing and reinstalled the new oil seals in backwards (spring out) to let grease out. Putting in the seals with spring out also moves the contact point further out in case of chewed/rough seal seating area.
Hai montato i mimm paraolio sulla scatola del differenziale al contrario..corretta quella del pignone ma le altre 2 sono al contrario..la parte interna del mimm paraolio và sempre rivolta verso l olio da contenere..comunque sei un grande..ti stimo.
For that huge pilot bearing funny nut there's a hydraulic nut that has the outer hex that fits it supposedly. It looks like a huge nut with male threads coming out one side. Then the inside diameter is too small to fit over the shaft so it needs a lathe to increase the inner diameter. Then one can weld a bit of pipe and nut to use a regular socket etc. There's another vid of a guy doing it.
Hi mate , hard to see in video as it all speed up but the spacers that go on either side of the ring gear , Are they the thinner ones? and the thicker ones go inside the clutch accessibly to seat the springs? or is that other way around?
Is that thing full time 4wd? I remember Honda had a few years that they did that. Considering that it's a 95 and I'm sure you run it pretty hard here and there, that original diff lasted a pretty decent amount of time.
BarnStangz all old hondas are 4 wheel full time. u can get actuators for these ol hondas but the only saving u will get from it is on gas. Because all your 4 wheel drive gear will be still turning at all times so ya dont save anything in the long run
He gets a lot of hate on the way he does his stuff but he never ever has called himself a mechanic, welder, metal fabricator or anything professional so his ways might not be proper but they do work.
Авто/Мото
"I'm sure there's a better way to do this. I just don't know what it is?" I just loved that phrase. Famous honest humble words from Andrew.
That phrase made me pissed. I am still laughing
All through any process, tutorial or repair; Professor Camarata remains patient, focused and uninflected.
I really respect someone who freely admits their mistakes, especially without making excuses. Asking for help/advice is good too. All of this on video takes a lot of humility. Thanks for a great video, Andrew.
True, true. There is nothing wrong with admitting to your mistakes and asking for help and advice from someone else. I get it, I am no stranger to telling people that there was a misunderstanding and/or a mistake made.
You gave me hope of getting my 05 Honda Recon 250's rear differential back together. I did it all by myself with no hassle and even made my own special tool for the big pinion nut
Lol, i can almost see the paper he is reading from in this video. Been binge watching Andrews videos lately, so much more enjoyable than the crap on tv these days.
Hey Andrew! Michigan Mechanic Tip Brewed in NJ. This is how I've avoided buying fancy Internal Bearing Pullers..
Deep Creep by Seafoam First, Better than WD-40, PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench put together. Its 13$ a can, but WORTH IT.
1) Tap a lag anchor shield that fits in the I.D of the bearing in with a hammer
2) Tighten the associated bolt into the anchor, and spread anchor inside bearing (NO IMPACT you will stretch the case)
3) Give it a little torch love if you have it first, and pry it out with a pickle fork
I Hope someone reads this and this helped anyone. Thanks for your awesome videos Andrew!
AvE did one before for a blind hole, where he used grease and rags and a punch/drift that was the same as the id of the bearing. The hydraulic force generated by packing in the grease coated rags and hammering the punch was enough to force the bearing out.
Thanks for that tip. I wonder if a concrete wedge anchor would work (or something very similar) as well as the shield and bolt
Ive just started following you, Im not mechanically minded at all but your ingenuity and perseverance to make it happen is impressive!
Nice! I love the way this dude bangs on shit! Glad I'm not the only one!
Sometimes you can force the pinion cage bearing out with hydraulic pressure .
Find a piece of round stock or a punch slightly smaller that the ID of the bearing , ( same size as the male part of the pinion shaft ) wrap some Teflon tape to form a seal of sorts .
Fill cavity with grease and usually a few taps will force the old bearing up & out of the case .
Kind of like a pilot bearing on a flywheel
With that pinion bearing just heat the case up with a blow torch and then give it a tap on the bench and it will fall out. I love the angle iron tool 10/10
on that pinion bearing.... pack it full of grease or water soaked paper towel. Stuff some paper towel on top, pound a snug rod or dowel into the inner race hole. You will hydraulic the bearing out. As it moves pull the dowel, add more grease or soggy paper. Once grease/paper starts coming out the top hole you should have enough of the bearing exposed to grab it and yank it out - or use a lip puller.
ramosel thanks. I tried hammering a socket with grease, no luck. I've had that work well with auto transmission pinion bearings before.
Yup this works good,...
Look for a lathe less than $800 Gear Drive is better than leather belt, even a cheap 7x10 harbor freight one will do - the 10x20 is a better choice. My Sheldon 1945 WQ 10x44 leather belt driven lathe is actually only a 10x22 in the chinese measuring system. So a Logan, Sheldon, South Bend, SIEG, Monarch, Columbus, G&E (Gould & Eberhardt), K&T (Kearney & Trecker) You can turn bar stock down to fit a bearing, the pack the hole with grease and blue paper towel. Lathe is also good for spinning things to sand them - comutators, brush rings, rusty shaft you need to clean to get bearing off. I use my lathe more for cleaning things than making things. To remove that roller pilot bearing Harbor Freight Item#63609 $23 14pc slide hammer set is the other way. www.walmart.com/ip/197284166 $38 is a 16pc pilot bearing puller set
Clean the casing thoroughly (to avoid stinking out the oven and kitchen), and pop it in the oven at 200C for 1/2 hour. The bearings will literally drop out. It's so easy, it's almost unbelievable!
@@johnw1078 Thats a cool trick.
I usually use sockets and threaded rod to push or pull bearings in or out. Keep the videos coming!
Great video. Very entertaining. It's fun to watch someone work through a problem. im a mechanic and when sharing info about jobs, what not to do is usually the first and most important info being shared.
mademad2 thanks.
Straight genius using that angle iron as a tool 👌👌👏
I love guys like you. Always look for mentors that are like you. Stay w geniuses like yourself . Never give up
Also ,,,,BREAD
I love the voice overs, Im thinking of getting a quad for down at camp. Something to take the kids out for a rip on. You've widened my search to 20 year old quads because parts are still available. that disk brake kit is pretty slick too. I'm thinking Yamaha/Honda 400ish.
A monotone masterpiece
Like a pilot bushing, you pack it with grease and use something with a tight fit in the hole, when you pound it into the grease being forced into the hole it will pop it out, I have also heard of using bread to fill the hole for a less messy job. Hope this made sense.
I have done that with pilot bearings before. It works good
watched 30 of your vids over the weekend great stuff Andrew..
I used all thread and welded it to that pilot bearing then put a steel plate across the top with a hole in the center. Used a nut and turned it down tight. As I tightened the nut it pulled outward on the pilot bearing. It finally popped out and I didn't use the retaining ring when I reassembled it. Thanks for the video.
Andrew,
Buy yourself a few different diameters of copper rod like 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", maybe about 10" long and use them as drifts for knocking bearings and seals into place, even some lengths of nylon rod would also be handy.
Old post but what an excellcent idea. Thanks mate
This man don't have time to wait for a part to come in, hell he just makes him one.. His thought is someone put it together, and i can take it apart, just half to use a bigger hammer that's all.. He don't use grease to help set the bearing, just bang it in . I LOVE IT, NIce job
MAN I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU ARE DOING CUZ I'M NOT AUTO MECHANIC BUT I SURVIVED TO FINISHED WATCHING YOUR VIDEO
Now that is something I can get my head around. Very good my main man. I would never of guessed that angle iron for a tool and that made me smile. You never stop thinking do you. I found a way to see all of your videos and should get caught up in about a month or less cause Iwatch you a lot. I have made friends with a lot of youtube people and hope that you will be kind enough to allow me as a friend... I don't mean go have coffee or something, just this chat box. Thank you for your time
Guess you never made this friend
You are hilarious and bring new meaning to Just do it.
Dispite any mistakes you make you still get more done than anyone I know
Fill the inside diameter of the bearing with grease insert a shaft as a makeshift piston hit the end of the shaft gently the hydraulic pressure should back the bearing out add more grease as needed. Great channel by the way!
Your discovery of the special tool is great. Love your videos.
Maybe a little heavy handed but it's fixed. Also a willingness and ability to work on an older unit like this gives you full license to hit it with a hammer all you want. Harbor freight has a cheap press for you that would look good along the wall. Great video as always thanks Andrew
its fathers day and this video was perfect...thanks
Andrew i have been watching some of your videos in the last couple of days, and i really like them, but this is by far my favorite, this too funny!!
pilot bearing puller also you have to set the preload on the pinion bearing.
to remove that small pinion bearing you're supposed to use a punch and push down in then use puller or whatever to get bearing out. there is a circlip around that bearing thats why there is a groove in the center. when you push down through hole it releases the circlip so bearing can come out
Freaking Macgyver making his own tools. Awesome. I love watching these videos. Very entertaining
If a bearing is an "interference" fit, heat up the housing to expand it, and get your cooled bearing out of a freezer and it will tap right in. Same thing works for engine, cylinder liners, put them in the freezer and they go into an engine block correctly. If your bearing taps in too easily, make sure it goes in with loctite bearing mount ( amazing stuff). Now that differential appeared to run in grease and not oil, so you will also need to remember to inject (pack) grease into the bearings before install so they dont run dry. In fact there are now semi-fluid wheel bearing, synthetic grease exactly for this type of situation.
great result with the angle iron spanner fpr the pinion nut Andrew.
This video had a lot of bearing on disassembly and assembly, differentially speaking! 😁
My reply has no bearing on this conversation.
I'm in the wild and can't find my bearings, I think I'm gonna die.
The Geezer ha ha
Seal of approval from me
I believe the small pinion bearing has a retaining ring you gotta remove 1st..either way awesome channel keep at it
😂😂😂he's come far guys, u sound like a robot andrew 🤣
I like your ingenuity! Thanks for sharing!
Great video, setting up the pinion pre load was missed & I didn't see any oil being refilled. Maybe off camera.reminds me of my refusal to buy special tools for one off jobs.
Ahhhhh.....Necessity......the mother of invention!! Keep up the good work!!
hey dude if i can learn from your mistakes then your video is worth watching, thanks bro
The pinion bearing with the blind hole, they make blind hole bearing puller set. It's an expandable collet with threads that connect to a slide hammer. I used it to pull the bearings on my yz 125 rebuild. They are pretty cheap on amazon I think I paid $25 just search blind hole bearing set
thanks man, i helped my buddy replace the bearings on his hunting atv
8:16 Oooops! But it worked. Andrew always finds a way. 😊
You had me rollin with the text (don't do this) as you did (this). LoL I can say my first go to impulse is to beat something out with a punch or screwdriver.
Question..... at 3:53 you talk about a 22mm nut holding that sleeve into place. Mine doesn’t have that. So just try and pry it out? 🤔
Might I ask what kind of sealant you used on the diff cases? Also what bearing kit did you use?
If you have an outside bearing race (Pressed into a bore) If you pull bearing apart so just the outer race remains. You weld around on the face of race (where bearings run) The weld will cool and shrink the race.
Yes! Finally someone that beats
The shit out of stuff.
I like it!
take a piece of 1.1/2" x 1.1/2" square tubing and it make's a great tool to get that nut out that holds the pinion bearing in, by the way look in that little hole and you will see a snap ring if you push it in the bearing will come out more easy
4:40 GENIUS finding that specialized tool
Another beauty job by Andrew C right here. Lol. Wicked.
Boy, I'd give anything to be your neighbor!... We'd be two peas in a pod.... I've watched all your vids and your me! Keep it up.
Boy i didn't know any of this at ALL 89
How about adding some grease to the new diff, would that help?
I don't know how i missed this video. With the small bearing you used the welder on. The secret is hydraulics. You put some thick grease down inside the hole of the bearing. Then take a rod same size as inner diameter of bearing with a sharp but not to hard a blow with hammer and it will pop right out.
They make a little bearing puller that goes into the bearing. You thread in and it spreads out and grabs. Remove with slide hammer. For pilot bearing
andrew's earlier videos were actually pretty comical.
Just saw your video here wondering if you know of any way to upgrade my 99 Foreman to a front disconnect and positive traction like the newer models have would prefer to do an electric setup if possible
7:56 new way to use a claw hammer
Where the main bolt was tide in;
Likekly on 2 small bareings.
So you take out all the other stuff (as you do) and just screw back the bolt to small bareings and pull them out.
Andrew...the thing you need to your toolbox are called bearing internal pullers!buy a kit you gonna need it!
Do you need gasket maker? I noticed it didn't have when took apart
You inspire me to make a RUclips channel. What editing software do you recommend
Tractor supply sells a small gear the exact size for 5 bucks i weld it to a big deep socket and works perfect
heat the case a bit to remove and repl;ace??
Stuff bread into the bearing. Find a shaft that fits the hole in the bearing and start pounding on it. Put more brad as needed. It will drive the bearing out without damage. Bread hydraulic.
we use to use a grease gun and pump grease into the center hole of throw out bearings. the grease pushed the bearing out from behind. maybe that would work in this situation also.
Pack the bearings with light grease, before installing, helps to keep from
Burning out . My opinion, 3/29/21
plus,, whenever i do what you do it all goes boom !
Thanks for the video I think I can handle the job now
You’re welcome good luck, it might be worth getting that special tool for that one nut. this is still working five years later. Make sure you’re axles are in good shape and wheelbearings, I just had to do those.
Dude a bearing/race/seal driver set would save you lots of punching -- and be useful on many other jobs
good job!!!.... thanks 4 video. be kind.
With a small flat tip screwdriver. Bend the clip upwards, grab it with needle nose pliers. And just pull it out, bearing should slide right out. This is from a technical manual.
Were all of those sealed bearings?
I'm pretty certain you put the side seals in backwards. The exposed metal side should go towards the bearing and the rubber overmolded side should be on the outside. Also, be careful about using old bearings as drivers for the new bearing, you don't want crud from the old bearing to contaminate the new bearing.
EFormance Engineering I'm positive the seals are in right, that's how the old ones came out. That metal goes into the axles nicely.
You can put them in either way, springs to outside lets over pressure out of the diff. When I converted a John Deere 544A to a greased rear axle pivot from diff oil lubed. Drilled the zerk fitting hole into the bushing/housing and reinstalled the new oil seals in backwards (spring out) to let grease out. Putting in the seals with spring out also moves the contact point further out in case of chewed/rough seal seating area.
Hai montato i mimm paraolio sulla scatola del differenziale al contrario..corretta quella del pignone ma le altre 2 sono al contrario..la parte interna del mimm paraolio và sempre rivolta verso l olio da contenere..comunque sei un grande..ti stimo.
Now that is a hammer!
For that huge pilot bearing funny nut there's a hydraulic nut that has the outer hex that fits it supposedly. It looks like a huge nut with male threads coming out one side. Then the inside diameter is too small to fit over the shaft so it needs a lathe to increase the inner diameter. Then one can weld a bit of pipe and nut to use a regular socket etc. There's another vid of a guy doing it.
you even forgot to put the seal on the drive axle back in place 11:05
Hi mate , hard to see in video as it all speed up but the spacers that go on either side of the ring gear , Are they the thinner ones? and the thicker ones go inside the clutch accessibly to seat the springs? or is that other way around?
I'm not sure, its been a while since I did this. Maybe check the microfiche from Honda.
At 1:35, what’s that tool he has goes around the shaft to hold the pinion ?
Andrew, dont you have to dial gauge the pinion with the driven wheel and shim up to a required mesh ?
Andrew, next time use a pilot bearing removal tool, on a slide hammer. There are other methods if that doesn't work.
I use moist bread and get a bolt that goes thru snug keep hammering bread into it and viola it walks right out!
Cool video, thank you for sharing your amazing video. God bless you and your family
Just pulled the diff out of my honda 350 rancher cv axles were stuck in mine too
BTW the best wat to pull that inner bearing is a lag bolt and a slide hammer
Once all the seals are out, heating an aluminum case to about 200 degrees F in the oven will let the bearings fall out
You should consider getting a bearing packer. :)
were your batteries a little low in this video? you sound bummed out
Is that thing full time 4wd? I remember Honda had a few years that they did that. Considering that it's a 95 and I'm sure you run it pretty hard here and there, that original diff lasted a pretty decent amount of time.
BarnStangz yes, that thing is always in four-wheel-drive, I like it that way
BarnStangz all old hondas are 4 wheel full time. u can get actuators for these ol hondas but the only saving u will get from it is on gas. Because all your 4 wheel drive gear will be still turning at all times so ya dont save anything in the long run
I'd love to build something like this with four electric wheel hub motors.
Dejay Rezme yeah, that would be cool if it works good.
Bro In minute 9:7 where did you get that checkpoint that you put hitting it I can't find it I'm from Mexico how can I look for it or what it's called
Slide Hammer to grab the inner part of the race and pull it out
need to buy an internal bearing puller/slide hammer. works perfect on those pinion bearings and much more
i have one my brakes never have worked o mine its a 0202 i just never think about bakes i don't use them
Troy Crowder the old drum breaks on the old hondas never worked all that great
The tool to get that little bearing out that you damaged the case is called a blind bearing puller
You rock bro
He gets a lot of hate on the way he does his stuff but he never ever has called himself a mechanic, welder, metal fabricator or anything professional so his ways might not be proper but they do work.