This is probably the most convincing, detailed, start to finish overview of relocation brackets I've seen anywhere on the internet. I really appreciate your video, and you got a sub. 👍
Random tip for anyone doing this with wheels On the ground get a ratchet strap and have it wrapped around the axle and frame to keep it in place so you can get the lower control arms back in.
Just installed these last night... not going to lie, getting all the holes to line up was much more difficult than I would have imagined. Having a hole alignment tool goes a long way to make this move along quickly.
about to install front bracket. I already had after market upper control arms hopefully this will reduce some of the flighty steering and bring everything back into spec. Was looking at metalcloak rear control arm drop bracket as well.
Love your vids. Found you recently but I've been in the jeep world a while. I'm on my 4th Jeep now and second JK. Love these videos as I go back through the past videos.
@@BaptismOverland I ordered a JLU Rubicon a few months ago and canceled it and found another JK. I had a 2 door and wanted 4 doors. But I didn't want the extra electronics in the engines they come with now. Holding out a while longer and building the new JKUR in Anvil while I wait.
@@AddkisonAlesAndLagers That's exactly it! Funny story- my friend had a JL and one day everything just shut down. He has no idea why. It had less than 1000 miles and even the guys at Jeep couldn't figure it out that they had to call the engineers to diagnose it. He ended up selling it and got a Gladiator instead. But after that, it's why I shied away. New vehicles with too many computer controls are so much harder to fix and diagnose at home.
Just recently I went to a ARB lift that lifted my JL 2 door rubicon a extra 2.5 inches over stock. I adjusted the rear pinion to 8 degrees with adjustable upper rear control arms, I just didn’t like the look of the angles for longevity. The big problem was the front even with lower adjustable control arms at 4.5 caster , l left some for the front pinion angle. If I hit a good bump at speed it was unsafe and it felt like bump steer. I actually hit three bumps in a row around a bend at 90 km/h and it was very dangerous. I then fitted a adjustable front track bar and adjusted it quarter of a inch longer, then the drag link to get the steering wheel near the middle. This helped a little . The biggest single improvement was the geometry drop down brackets. Now it feels like standard over the sharp bumps without going to the side. Caster looks like 5 degrees and pinion 1. Good thing I don’t use the front drive shaft at road speeds. The only down side they will give less clearance off roading but I rather have the geometry brackets , I’m using the lower adjustable control arms with them backed off to standard length as they are so solid for rocks with better bushings.
Great video ! My lift came with all the control arms. But I want to upgrade the trac bar snd tie rod. My shifter shakes too, which is annoying. But B&M makes a short throw shifter for our Jeep’s. And it’s apparently amazing and very tight, and 40% shorter shifts. But a little pricey. Around 530$.
Some kits only come with adjustable lower control arms. Is this enough for a 3 inch lift? I currently have a 1.5 inch lift with no geometry correction on my JL 2 door with no problems even at 120km/h. I will for sure have problems when I go to 3 inch. I am only using 32 inch tyres will this become more of a issue with bigger tyres? 😮
I would check with JKS. They might have a diff bracket for 3". Keep in mind though that I bought the 2.5" kit fr OME and they usually sit higher than advertised. I actually got 3" fr my lift (before it sagged down to 2.5 when the weight was added fr the winch bumper and RTT). So for awhile I was running these brackets while I was lifted 3". I don't see a problem with you using these with 3" but I would def check with manufacturer
Did you end up putting in 2 inch bump stop extensions? I am wondering if for super light offroad driving if these are needed, as the instructions call for them
@@BaptismOverland hey I dont blame ya! I would too. The jeep I bought had a lift already but no extended stops. I'm gonna put the brackets in for now, add the stops once they come in
There are no correction brackets for the rear. I actually had to get a pair of Teraflex lower control arms for that. With the Old Man Emu lift, they give you a correction bracket for the track bar. So far it has sufficed as it's not that huge of a lift. If I need to I'll get some upper rear control arms and a front adjustable track bar and that should complete my geometry
I don't see why you would need these brackets if you have aftermarket ones already, you know? Aftermarket control arms were made for specific lift heights. And if it's adjustable, you definitely don't need these. These were made if you don't WANT to buy aftermarket control arms and want to use the stock ones which are too short for your lift. It's basically adding length for you if that makes sense. If you already have aftermarket JKS control arms made for, say, a 2.5" lift or you have adjustable arms, you're already good to go without needing to spend for these.
I had the same issue, it turned out to be the drive shaft . There was wear and slop on the u joints . No issues after that. I did everything else to take away the vibration. Remeoved the drive shaft to service it. Problem solved
Turned out mine was just wheel balancing. Some shops don't know how to balance large tires on STEEL wheels. Once I got it to Discount Tire, they tuned it right.
I'll look into it. The steering wheel def stopped shaking. The shaking seems to be coming from the floor and seat and most times that's from the rear. I'll need to correct the rear geometry and see if it still persists.
If you're shifter is shacking and feel it at your feet, that's your driveshaft retiring dude...or somewhere by driveshaft like rzeppa or DS itself isn't tighten down enough or it's loose.
We thought about that too. Only problem is we never even messed with the driveshaft at all and it started to shake soon as the lift was put on. I'll have it looked at but I also still have to address the rear correction anyway. If it still persists after that, then it's most likely driveshaft or the tires aren't as balanced as they should be.
@@BaptismOverland yes I think once you learn more about the jeeps you realize how important it is. I just spent some money on all 8 controls arms to get everything corrected after having my 2.5" lift over a year. It's not just about lifting the jeep there is more to it
@@HenryV_88 Oh trust me I know lol. So many people just lift without correcting. You don't have to wheel it hard to get control arms. If you lift, you have to correct everything with it whether you wheel it or not.
@@BaptismOverland yes agree. I'm not a hard wheeler just camping and overlanding but finally decided to get the control arms to correct my geometry and pinion angles. To bring it back to specs to avoid issues dont the road. But man controls are expensive
What JKS doesn't tell you: these brackets are a bolt-on for 07-14 JKU'S. For 2015-2018 JKU'S you're going to have to cut the passenger side upper mount to "clearance" these, at which point you're stuck with them for life. I returned these on account of this because I didn't want to be permanently attached to them. These are a $200 part which exists purely to try and avoid buying the correct $800 part, but they are NOT bolt-on for ALL JKU'S as JKS claims.
They're also inconsistent in their manufacturing of the part. I've held four different sets of these and they all measured different by up to 3/8". Congrats that the sloppily built part you received fit your rig.
@@PNWJEEPER01 yeah man. That sucks but a lot of these companies are inconsistent. I've also noticed jeeps themselves can be inconsistent too. Buddy of mine has same year and model as me and we've both had things fit differently
@@BaptismOverland long story short- there's no such thing as a set of adjustable control arms that you'll have to cut your mounts to install. These brackets are really just a way to cut corners, which means temporary in the grand scheme of a durable, dependable build. I'm not cutting for temporary stuff.
I actually installed the JKS 3.5" lift with geo correction brackets. Man what a great choice. JKS has great customer service to.
Yes! Huge difference
This is probably the most convincing, detailed, start to finish overview of relocation brackets I've seen anywhere on the internet.
I really appreciate your video, and you got a sub. 👍
Thanks!! I try
Random tip for anyone doing this with wheels
On the ground get a ratchet strap and have it wrapped around the axle and frame to keep it in place so you can get the lower control arms back in.
Great solution!
Just installed these last night... not going to lie, getting all the holes to line up was much more difficult than I would have imagined.
Having a hole alignment tool goes a long way to make this move along quickly.
Yep!! lol. Anything with suspension, lining things up is a PAIN
So glad for this channel. Answered all my questions about correction brackets.
about to install front bracket. I already had after market upper control arms hopefully this will reduce some of the flighty steering and bring everything back into spec. Was looking at metalcloak rear control arm drop bracket as well.
Love your vids. Found you recently but I've been in the jeep world a while. I'm on my 4th Jeep now and second JK. Love these videos as I go back through the past videos.
I really love the JK. It was tempting to switch to the JL but every time I look, I’m really more flattered by the JK ruggedness.
@@BaptismOverland I ordered a JLU Rubicon a few months ago and canceled it and found another JK. I had a 2 door and wanted 4 doors. But I didn't want the extra electronics in the engines they come with now. Holding out a while longer and building the new JKUR in Anvil while I wait.
@@AddkisonAlesAndLagers That's exactly it! Funny story- my friend had a JL and one day everything just shut down. He has no idea why. It had less than 1000 miles and even the guys at Jeep couldn't figure it out that they had to call the engineers to diagnose it. He ended up selling it and got a Gladiator instead. But after that, it's why I shied away. New vehicles with too many computer controls are so much harder to fix and diagnose at home.
Great video. Thank you for the info. I'm new to Jeeps. Just picked up a JK and I'm planning on some suspension upgrades.
Just recently I went to a ARB lift that lifted my JL 2 door rubicon a extra 2.5 inches over stock. I adjusted the rear pinion to 8 degrees with adjustable upper rear control arms, I just didn’t like the look of the angles for longevity. The big problem was the front even with lower adjustable control arms at 4.5 caster , l left some for the front pinion angle. If I hit a good bump at speed it was unsafe and it felt like bump steer. I actually hit three bumps in a row around a bend at 90 km/h and it was very dangerous. I then fitted a adjustable front track bar and adjusted it quarter of a inch longer, then the drag link to get the steering wheel near the middle. This helped a little . The biggest single improvement was the geometry drop down brackets. Now it feels like standard over the sharp bumps without going to the side. Caster looks like 5 degrees and pinion 1. Good thing I don’t use the front drive shaft at road speeds. The only down side they will give less clearance off roading but I rather have the geometry brackets , I’m using the lower adjustable control arms with them backed off to standard length as they are so solid for rocks with better bushings.
Yeah I don't do anything crazy and the correction brackets have been fine for where I've been
Great video ! My lift came with all the control arms. But I want to upgrade the trac bar snd tie rod. My shifter shakes too, which is annoying. But B&M makes a short throw shifter for our Jeep’s. And it’s apparently amazing and very tight, and 40% shorter shifts. But a little pricey. Around 530$.
Good to know. That's a bit much to control an annoyance lol. I can live with it.
Some kits only come with adjustable lower control arms. Is this enough for a 3 inch lift? I currently have a 1.5 inch lift with no geometry correction on my JL 2 door with no problems even at 120km/h. I will for sure have problems when I go to 3 inch. I am only using 32 inch tyres will this become more of a issue with bigger tyres? 😮
I would check with JKS. They might have a diff bracket for 3". Keep in mind though that I bought the 2.5" kit fr OME and they usually sit higher than advertised. I actually got 3" fr my lift (before it sagged down to 2.5 when the weight was added fr the winch bumper and RTT). So for awhile I was running these brackets while I was lifted 3". I don't see a problem with you using these with 3" but I would def check with manufacturer
Great video, those geometry correction brackets are mostly to fix the wandering issue after a lift. What’s you caster angle after the installation?
I haven't checked yet. Waiting on new sway bars to finish up the suspension
Did you end up putting in 2 inch bump stop extensions? I am wondering if for super light offroad driving if these are needed, as the instructions call for them
I did. I paid a grand for this kit. I'm putting in everything it comes with lol.
@@BaptismOverland hey I dont blame ya! I would too. The jeep I bought had a lift already but no extended stops. I'm gonna put the brackets in for now, add the stops once they come in
Thanks Asia. Makes sense. But what about the rear? can you use the same bracket for the rear to adjust the same geometry change?
There are no correction brackets for the rear. I actually had to get a pair of Teraflex lower control arms for that. With the Old Man Emu lift, they give you a correction bracket for the track bar. So far it has sufficed as it's not that huge of a lift. If I need to I'll get some upper rear control arms and a front adjustable track bar and that should complete my geometry
I know it says these are for fixed length control arms but can you use fixed JKS lowers and JKS adjustable uppers with this bracket?
I don't see why you would need these brackets if you have aftermarket ones already, you know? Aftermarket control arms were made for specific lift heights. And if it's adjustable, you definitely don't need these. These were made if you don't WANT to buy aftermarket control arms and want to use the stock ones which are too short for your lift. It's basically adding length for you if that makes sense. If you already have aftermarket JKS control arms made for, say, a 2.5" lift or you have adjustable arms, you're already good to go without needing to spend for these.
I had the same issue, it turned out to be the drive shaft . There was wear and slop on the u joints . No issues after that. I did everything else to take away the vibration. Remeoved the drive shaft to service it. Problem solved
Turned out mine was just wheel balancing. Some shops don't know how to balance large tires on STEEL wheels. Once I got it to Discount Tire, they tuned it right.
Cuz I got new driveshafts too and it wasn't that
If you never found a solution to your shaking I would try going back to an oem steering stabilizer shock. I had that issue.
I'll look into it. The steering wheel def stopped shaking. The shaking seems to be coming from the floor and seat and most times that's from the rear. I'll need to correct the rear geometry and see if it still persists.
If you're shifter is shacking and feel it at your feet, that's your driveshaft retiring dude...or somewhere by driveshaft like rzeppa or DS itself isn't tighten down enough or it's loose.
We thought about that too. Only problem is we never even messed with the driveshaft at all and it started to shake soon as the lift was put on. I'll have it looked at but I also still have to address the rear correction anyway. If it still persists after that, then it's most likely driveshaft or the tires aren't as balanced as they should be.
@@BaptismOverland look at Wayalife driveshaft shake and he shows exactly what you showed. After he fixed it no more shake. Go check it out.
@@BaptismOverland loving your Overland cargo build, keep it up!!
@@zachtuk111 Yeah I've seen it. That's how I knew it might be DS so now it's just process of elimination.
@@BaptismOverland no luck still? Might be your drag link, torque spec to 161lb and check your u joints by front wheels.
have you done any correction on the rear?
Not yet but will do it very soon. I need to.
@@BaptismOverland yes I think once you learn more about the jeeps you realize how important it is. I just spent some money on all 8 controls arms to get everything corrected after having my 2.5" lift over a year. It's not just about lifting the jeep there is more to it
@@HenryV_88 Oh trust me I know lol. So many people just lift without correcting. You don't have to wheel it hard to get control arms. If you lift, you have to correct everything with it whether you wheel it or not.
@@BaptismOverland yes agree. I'm not a hard wheeler just camping and overlanding but finally decided to get the control arms to correct my geometry and pinion angles. To bring it back to specs to avoid issues dont the road. But man controls are expensive
@@HenryV_88 Haha who you telling. That's why I haven't gotten them yet. But it's next. Modding is expensive!
What JKS doesn't tell you: these brackets are a bolt-on for 07-14 JKU'S. For 2015-2018 JKU'S you're going to have to cut the passenger side upper mount to "clearance" these, at which point you're stuck with them for life.
I returned these on account of this because I didn't want to be permanently attached to them.
These are a $200 part which exists purely to try and avoid buying the correct $800 part, but they are NOT bolt-on for ALL JKU'S as JKS claims.
That's odd because I own a 2016 and they bolted on just fine and cleared everything
You can see in the video we didn't have to cut anything
They're also inconsistent in their manufacturing of the part. I've held four different sets of these and they all measured different by up to 3/8". Congrats that the sloppily built part you received fit your rig.
@@PNWJEEPER01 yeah man. That sucks but a lot of these companies are inconsistent. I've also noticed jeeps themselves can be inconsistent too. Buddy of mine has same year and model as me and we've both had things fit differently
@@BaptismOverland long story short- there's no such thing as a set of adjustable control arms that you'll have to cut your mounts to install. These brackets are really just a way to cut corners, which means temporary in the grand scheme of a durable, dependable build. I'm not cutting for temporary stuff.
Once you lift a Jeep it opens a black hole and all your time and money for the next few years gets sucked in.
Nothing has been more truer 😂