Great video! Not sure why you apologize for narration or length. I understood perfectly and there was a ton of info packed into just over 20 mi. Thanks for bringing me along.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I just came in from spending a few hours trying to plumb a pneumatic cylinder for my HF 4x6 and it didn't work. Your schematic, explanation, and part number answered every question I had about this. Thanks again.
Thank you for an excellent video. No need to apologize in the comments. It was fine and a valuable resource. You haven't posted any videos for a long time. I hope all is well with you. I would like to see more of your small stock storage system seen in the background. More videos please. Thanks
Thanks for you comment Kurt W. I am glad you enjoyed this video. It's frustrating to me to not be able to smoothly narrate these video as easily as I hear others doing. Yes, I haven't posted video is quite a while even though I have many projects filmed and "in the can" so to speak. I have MS and it has finally gotten to the point where I could no longer send enjoyable time it the shop. I rushed to complete several projects since I knew this was coming. I just haven't taken the time to edit and post them yet. I think they are the best stuff I've made. Having said all this, I've been forced to sell all my equipment due to the creeping loss of function caused by MS. Don't give up on me I'll try to work on posting something soon.
@@apowellz Thanks for your reply. I'm very sorry to hear about your health problems and the loss of your shop time. Hang in there. Hopefully you will be able to find other ways to express your creativity. Best wishes to you. Regards, KW
@@apowellz Hi Allen. I was just wondering how you were doing since this comment 2 months ago??? I hope you are doing OK. I know it can be very hard to cope with health problems. I have some chronic health issue myself, but nothing like what you are dealing with. Perhaps we could email if you wish. Best regards
Thank you again. The pressure gauge was a great addition for understanding it clearly. Especially the residual pressure of 50psi when cutting. That flat plate you have on the near side of the saw is a great addition which I wish all manufacturers would fit.
+Joss Fitzsimons The gauge is a fun addition. That clamping shelf ahead of the vise is one the best mods. It's simple, but it is invaluable for so many things. There are cuts you can make with it that would be difficult to do any other way. Thanks for the comment.
Well Sir, i would kill to have 10% your capability to make those parts so accurate and perfect !!! i am an old engineer, electrical engineer, but wishing to learn machining and metal fabrication, I think it is wonderful and relaxing to some some extent ... will save your video ....
Thanks Allen! Very interesting and informative video. And you definitely don't need to apologize for your narration! Sure, I've watched vids from the "masters" (ThisOldTony, Clickspring, Joe Pi, Abom, TitansofCNC, etc) but I enjoyed and learned just a much from yours. Also thanks for providing examples from Amazon of valve assembly and hydraulic cylinder (@ 2:27)! Growing up, my dad had a Craftsman horizontal bandsaw of this size that came with the hydraulic cutting rate control built-in. I was disappointed to see that the inexpensive saws today (HF etc.) lack that control. It occurred to me that someone has probably figured out a way to add one--so here I am. Thanks again!
Thanks Allen for the other great bandsaw modification videos, i made those mods to my saw last week and now i'll add the hydraulic cylinder to complete the mods. I'm really glad you pointed out to mount it shaft side down as this will save me the head ache of replacing "O"rings in a short amount of time. Hope you have some more videos planned soon!
Thanks for your comment. I hope you will add the hydraulic cylinder. You be amazed how much it will improve using the saw from blade life to cut setup. I actually knew better on the first cylinder, but I did anyway! I have several project videos filmed, but editing them is the more difficult for me then the actual work on the projects! I will try to get some of them done.
+Geoff Dunn Thankfor your comment. I'm gland you enjoyed it. I'm not much of a videographer. Building things is much more fun then editing videos! This the best mod you can do for your saw.
hello Allan. I am a totally amateur machinest and I've begun the exact project you have already done. I am just wondering where guy can find a check ball seat?
G'day Allen very interesting how you came up with this fix. I am thinking of buying one of these saws this would be a great modification for it, great vid well machined kind regards John Tasmania
Thanks John for your comment. I have had this saw for over 20 years and it has been by far the best tool I have owned for the price. I have made many modifications mostly for work holding and convenience. It still has the original motor, belt and gearbox oil. Keep a good blade in it and have a little patience while it cuts and it will work for years. This cylinder modification is the best thing I have done to it and it makes the saw a joy to use. Should have done it years ago!
Hi Allen, Great video, your saw has quickly become a model for what I'm hoping to turn my Marketplace budget buy into. @16:23 in your video I'm looking at your bearing/blade guides they seem like a hybrid between the fixed ones that came on my yr 2000 model 37151 and the newer style that come on the "red" Harbor freight models. Is this a mod you did, or do you know what saw these came on OEM? i like that they look like they can pivot like the new style, but mount to the machine like the old green ones. thanks
This is a great heavy duty retaining cylinder, made to last forever, the only thing I've would like as an extra feature on this, is a valve to stop the action while you set up or measure, then you could set the needle valve to a position and not need to readjust it, still a minor inconvenient. Enjoyed... ;)
+ beaudry stone I agree and thought about the same thing. It would be convenient not having to change the needle setting in repetitive cuts. A small ball valve between or in place of the gauge tee and the needle valve would do it. It's a good idea I may add to this set up. Thanks for commenting.
IBWatchinUrVids I made no videos of when I made my diamond bit and holder. If you search on the net for Tangential Lathe Tool as I did, you will find everything you want to know about the tool, how to grind the bit using a shop made jig and several ways to make the bit holder. Take the time to do the research and make the tool and you'll have a cheap, easily maintained, great lathe tool!
Great project, and many thanks for posting! Apologies for tuning-in late, and perhaps I missed it in the video, but at 11:59 you say "seat for check ball is pressed in and ball is fitted". Where did the seat come from and of what material is it made? How is the ball "fitted"? Very well done!
Sorry I kind of skipped over few things to shorten up the video. The drawing of the valve at 11:35 shows the location of the ball and seat. Since I had to drill clear trough the valve body to make a passage, I needed make a seat for the ball to rest on because the ball diameter is less than the passage id to allow oil to flow past the check when raising the saw carriage. The seat is made from a piece of drill rod that has drilled through. The seat end has a small inner chamfer. I put the ball on the seat before pressing it in and wack it a couple of times to form the seat to the ball better. The photo at 11:59 shows the seat in place with the ball sitting on it. You can loose balls at bearing or hardware stores. Thanks for the comment!
Good to see you have been able to get some valuable shop time in Allen. A very interesting video on making your own hydraulic cylinder set up. Just a question about your lathe; what are some of the specs, turn height, size of chuck, bed length? You start looking at lathes and it gets very confusing to say the least.
+Mark Fryer Yes Mark I manage to try to get out in the shop 1 to 1 1/2 hours as often as I can. My lathe is Grizzly G4003. 12" swing over the rails and the bed is 36" long. I use the 6" 3 jaw chuck primarily, but it also comes with an 8" 4 jaw. It does everything I need. It's the only one I've used and it had handled all I've thrown at it. You use only about first 12 to 16 inches of the bed in front of chuck for 90% of your work, but the extra length is invaluable when you need it! Thanks for the comment.
how much pressure does the clock show? i can not see the clock.You are building a sail s pneumatic cylinder I want to put up with oil.by thank you for your reply
Very good video I have thought about making a cylinder for another project of mine gave me a lot of very good information always like to see others ideas. Thanks
+Kim Brerwer Thanks for your comment. A little cylinder like this could be useful for several projects. Caution: This is for a very low pressure application. Anything higher pressure would require a different piston seal set up and most likely a welded base end instead of solder.
Thats a great mod all these saws suffer from poor feed control. Your homemade tooling is very impressive also, they were some big cuts. Dont be hard on yourself about your narration it was fine........................Cheers
+thornwarbler Yes, the high priced, up scale saws all have hydralic feed systems. The counter balance spring on the little saws is only slightly better than nothing. Who hasn't had the experience of cutting a piece of thin was tubing and have the saw gnaw away at first and after breaking through the wall rip the rest. Not so much with this set up! Thanks for your comment. I hope to get better at the narration.
+Allen Powell I was actually thinking the ideal setup would be to use both. Then the cylinder limits feed rate and the spring limits down force. Without the spring you have no control over the amount of down force when cutting thick sections where the cut progresses slower than the cylinder feed rate, unless you manually adjust the needle valve while watching the pressure gauge like in your setup.
+Thunderbelch Maybe so, but the feed rate is so adjustable (down to drops per minute) that you can set the rate slow enough that the blade should have no problem keeping ahead of the saw dropping thus the blade doesn't see much of the load. My experience with counter balance springs, is the closer the blade gets to horizontal the more tension must be applied to the spring adjuster to counter the weight of the carriage. Like I said the gauge was just for fun. I said 50 - 100 psi gauge pressure (which is not true blade load) for a reasonable cutting speed, but I could adjust the needle for an extremely slow cut and the gauge would read in the 150 - 200 psi range.
Sorry for the late reply. The clamping angle was made with two pieces of flat bar because of the angle on the casting on the saw. One piece was bolted to the sloping face on the saw. The other piece was held level and flush to the top surface of the bed then welded to the first. Very handy modification to make.
Thanks Allen, I was afraid I may have to do that, just thought you had some magic trick. Thanks for the reply, U-Tube is great for sharing information and all the viewers appreciate what you are doing!
Duane Dickey No not really. I used 6" because the old cylinder I was replacing was 6" stroke so I just matched it. Material cost was not a concern and I didn't have to move the lower mount around. A 4" would work most likely just as well. The bore could be smaller also, but rod diameters start getting smaller too. You got to use what you have!
Thanks for the comment. It's been several months since I built this cylinder and it does not leak drop even though I just used simple o-rings for seals. This has been the best improvement I have made to the operation of my saw!
I dont understand how a hydraulic cylinder can simply be connected from one end to the other without some sort of external reservoir. The end without the piston rod is going to displace more hydraulic oil than the other end. I'm not sure how you got around that with yours. Good video though.
Sorry I didn't see your comment earlier. You are correct about a cylinder that is filled at the base end with the rod extended. Especially if the rod is large in diameter in relation to the bore of the cylinder, with ports hooked together, as the rod is pushed in the oil is forced around to the rod end and since the rod displaces part of the volume of that side the cylinder will lock up before the rod is fully collapsed. If the cylinder is filled from the rod end with the rod in all the way, when the rod is pulled out and the oil forced around to the base end and the rod will fully extend due to the larger displacement of the base end. Hope my explanation is understandable! Also notice my cylinder rod diameter is small compared to the bore an never strokes the whole travel in. Thanks for the comment.
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Great video! Not sure why you apologize for narration or length. I understood perfectly and there was a ton of info packed into just over 20 mi. Thanks for bringing me along.
Allen, I just bought one of these from Marketplace and I am going to do this mod. Thank you!!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I just came in from spending a few hours trying to plumb a pneumatic cylinder for my HF 4x6 and it didn't work. Your schematic, explanation, and part number answered every question I had about this. Thanks again.
Thank you for an excellent video. No need to apologize in the comments. It was fine and a valuable resource. You haven't posted any videos for a long time. I hope all is well with you.
I would like to see more of your small stock storage system seen in the background.
More videos please. Thanks
Thanks for you comment Kurt W. I am glad you enjoyed this video. It's frustrating to me to not be able to smoothly narrate these video as easily as I hear others doing. Yes, I haven't posted video is quite a while even though I have many projects filmed and "in the can" so to speak. I have MS and it has finally gotten to the point where I could no longer send enjoyable time it the shop. I rushed to complete several projects since I knew this was coming. I just haven't taken the time to edit and post them yet. I think they are the best stuff I've made. Having said all this, I've been forced to sell all my equipment due to the creeping loss of function caused by MS. Don't give up on me I'll try to work on posting something soon.
@@apowellz Thanks for your reply. I'm very sorry to hear about your health problems and the loss of your shop time.
Hang in there. Hopefully you will be able to find other ways to express your creativity. Best wishes to you.
Regards,
KW
@@apowellz Hi Allen.
I was just wondering how you were doing since this comment 2 months ago??? I hope you are doing OK. I know it can be very hard to cope with health problems. I have some chronic health issue myself, but nothing like what you are dealing with.
Perhaps we could email if you wish.
Best regards
Thank you again. The pressure gauge was a great addition for understanding it clearly. Especially the residual pressure of 50psi when cutting. That flat plate you have on the near side of the saw is a great addition which I wish all manufacturers would fit.
+Joss Fitzsimons The gauge is a fun addition. That clamping shelf ahead of the vise is one the best mods. It's simple, but it is invaluable for so many things. There are cuts you can make with it that would be difficult to do any other way. Thanks for the comment.
Well Sir, i would kill to have 10% your capability to make those parts so accurate and perfect !!! i am an old engineer, electrical engineer, but wishing to learn machining and metal fabrication, I think it is wonderful and relaxing to some some extent ... will save your video ....
Love the flow valve! Shall try to make one of these. Great Job! Thanks
Thanks Allen! Very interesting and informative video. And you definitely don't need to apologize for your narration! Sure, I've watched vids from the "masters" (ThisOldTony, Clickspring, Joe Pi, Abom, TitansofCNC, etc) but I enjoyed and learned just a much from yours. Also thanks for providing examples from Amazon of valve assembly and hydraulic cylinder (@ 2:27)!
Growing up, my dad had a Craftsman horizontal bandsaw of this size that came with the hydraulic cutting rate control built-in. I was disappointed to see that the inexpensive saws today (HF etc.) lack that control. It occurred to me that someone has probably figured out a way to add one--so here I am. Thanks again!
Thanks Allen for the other great bandsaw modification videos, i made those mods to my saw last week and now i'll add the hydraulic cylinder to complete the mods. I'm really glad you pointed out to mount it shaft side down as this will save me the head ache of replacing "O"rings in a short amount of time. Hope you have some more videos planned soon!
Thanks for your comment. I hope you will add the hydraulic cylinder. You be amazed how much it will improve using the saw from blade life to cut setup. I actually knew better on the first cylinder, but I did anyway! I have several project videos filmed, but editing them is the more difficult for me then the actual work on the projects! I will try to get some of them done.
This is pretty great build.
I have wellsaw 600 prob from about 1970 piston never worked but you have given me some ideas !!!
Thanks I think its a great job , informative and helpful to those of us who don't like to abuse our blades.
Outstanding mod, well thought out and well executed, thank you for your video!
+Geoff Dunn Thankfor your comment. I'm gland you enjoyed it. I'm not much of a videographer. Building things is much more fun then editing videos! This the best mod you can do for your saw.
hello Allan. I am a totally amateur machinest and I've begun the exact project you have already done. I am just wondering where guy can find a check ball seat?
G'day Allen very interesting how you came up with this fix. I am thinking of buying one of these saws this would be a great modification for it, great vid well machined kind regards John Tasmania
Thanks John for your comment. I have had this saw for over 20 years and it has been by far the best tool I have owned for the price. I have made many modifications mostly for work holding and convenience. It still has the original motor, belt and gearbox oil. Keep a good blade in it and have a little patience while it cuts and it will work for years. This cylinder modification is the best thing I have done to it and it makes the saw a joy to use. Should have done it years ago!
Hi Allen, Great video, your saw has quickly become a model for what I'm hoping to turn my Marketplace budget buy into. @16:23 in your video I'm looking at your bearing/blade guides they seem like a hybrid between the fixed ones that came on my yr 2000 model 37151 and the newer style that come on the "red" Harbor freight models. Is this a mod you did, or do you know what saw these came on OEM? i like that they look like they can pivot like the new style, but mount to the machine like the old green ones. thanks
Good video Sir. Keep up the good work. Take care, be safe!
+Ironheart Fabrication I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for your comment.
This is a great heavy duty retaining cylinder, made to last forever, the only thing I've would like as an extra feature on this, is a valve to stop the action while you set up or measure, then you could set the needle valve to a position and not need to readjust it, still a minor inconvenient.
Enjoyed... ;)
+ beaudry stone I agree and thought about the same thing. It would be convenient not having to change the needle setting in repetitive cuts. A small ball valve between or in place of the gauge tee and the needle valve would do it. It's a good idea I may add to this set up. Thanks for commenting.
Mr. Powell, I know this is an older video, but I wonder if you have any videos or information on that diamond shear lathe tool? Thanks!
IBWatchinUrVids I made no videos of when I made my diamond bit and holder. If you search on the net for Tangential Lathe Tool as I did, you will find everything you want to know about the tool, how to grind the bit using a shop made jig and several ways to make the bit holder. Take the time to do the research and make the tool and you'll have a cheap, easily maintained, great lathe tool!
Excellent idea. Just add water coolant to it and you are having a long lasting saw.
Great project, and many thanks for posting! Apologies for tuning-in late, and perhaps I missed it in the video, but at 11:59 you say "seat for check ball is pressed in and ball is fitted". Where did the seat come from and of what material is it made? How is the ball "fitted"? Very well done!
Sorry I kind of skipped over few things to shorten up the video. The drawing of the valve at 11:35 shows the location of the ball and seat. Since I had to drill clear trough the valve body to make a passage, I needed make a seat for the ball to rest on because the ball diameter is less than the passage id to allow oil to flow past the check when raising the saw carriage. The seat is made from a piece of drill rod that has drilled through. The seat end has a small inner chamfer. I put the ball on the seat before pressing it in and wack it a couple of times to form the seat to the ball better. The photo at 11:59 shows the seat in place with the ball sitting on it. You can loose balls at bearing or hardware stores. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks, Allen - Got it. That's just what I needed.
Nice video. Great job!
Thanks for the comment. Where you in Idaho? I'm in Boise. Not that many commenters from the wilds of Idaho!
Helped a lot. Thank you!
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great job
Good to see you have been able to get some valuable shop time in Allen. A very interesting video on making your own hydraulic cylinder set up. Just a question about your lathe; what are some of the specs, turn height, size of chuck, bed length? You start looking at lathes and it gets very confusing to say the least.
+Mark Fryer Yes Mark I manage to try to get out in the shop 1 to 1 1/2 hours as often as I can. My lathe is Grizzly G4003. 12" swing over the rails and the bed is 36" long. I use the 6" 3 jaw chuck primarily, but it also comes with an 8" 4 jaw. It does everything I need. It's the only one I've used and it had handled all I've thrown at it. You use only about first 12 to 16 inches of the bed in front of chuck for 90% of your work, but the extra length is invaluable when you need it! Thanks for the comment.
how much pressure does the clock show? i can not see the clock.You are building a sail s pneumatic cylinder I want to put up with oil.by thank you for your reply
real nice job thanks for sharing
Very good video I have thought about making a cylinder for another project of mine gave me a lot of very good information always like to see others ideas. Thanks
+Kim Brerwer Thanks for your comment. A little cylinder like this could be useful for several projects. Caution: This is for a very low pressure application. Anything higher pressure would require a different piston seal set up and most likely a welded base end instead of solder.
+Allen Powell I understand my needs probably would not be much higher than that in the video
Thats a great mod all these saws suffer from poor feed control. Your homemade tooling is very impressive also, they were some big cuts.
Dont be hard on yourself about your narration it was fine........................Cheers
+thornwarbler Yes, the high priced, up scale saws all have hydralic feed systems. The counter balance spring on the little saws is only slightly better than nothing. Who hasn't had the experience of cutting a piece of thin was tubing and have the saw gnaw away at first and after breaking through the wall rip the rest. Not so much with this set up! Thanks for your comment. I hope to get better at the narration.
+Allen Powell I was actually thinking the ideal setup would be to use both. Then the cylinder limits feed rate and the spring limits down force. Without the spring you have no control over the amount of down force when cutting thick sections where the cut progresses slower than the cylinder feed rate, unless you manually adjust the needle valve while watching the pressure gauge like in your setup.
+Thunderbelch Maybe so, but the feed rate is so adjustable (down to drops per minute) that you can set the rate slow enough that the blade should have no problem keeping ahead of the saw dropping thus the blade doesn't see much of the load. My experience with counter balance springs, is the closer the blade gets to horizontal the more tension must be applied to the spring adjuster to counter the weight of the carriage. Like I said the gauge was just for fun. I said 50 - 100 psi gauge pressure (which is not true blade load) for a reasonable cutting speed, but I could adjust the needle for an extremely slow cut and the gauge would read in the 150 - 200 psi range.
Hi Allen
How did you make the clamping angle plate for the side of the Harbor Freight band saw ?
Sorry for the late reply. The clamping angle was made with two pieces of flat bar because of the angle on the casting on the saw. One piece was bolted to the sloping face on the saw. The other piece was held level and flush to the top surface of the bed then welded to the first. Very handy modification to make.
Thanks Allen, I was afraid I may have to do that, just thought you had some magic trick. Thanks for the reply, U-Tube is great for sharing information and all the viewers appreciate what you are doing!
Excelente ilustración
great job! and thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment. It was fun to make and is a treat to use.
How much would you charge to make another one? I need one and don't have your skills
Looks good.
good job
Thanks Bill
Do you really need a 6" stroke? I have several 4" but no 6"er's.
Duane Dickey No not really. I used 6" because the old cylinder I was replacing was 6" stroke so I just matched it. Material cost was not a concern and I didn't have to move the lower mount around. A 4" would work most likely just as well. The bore could be smaller also, but rod diameters start getting smaller too. You got to use what you have!
Great vid! My air cylinder leaks for the same reason. :( I haven't gotten around to replacing it yet. But I'll keep your vid in mind when I do. :D
Thanks for the comment. It's been several months since I built this cylinder and it does not leak drop even though I just used simple o-rings for seals. This has been the best improvement I have made to the operation of my saw!
I dont understand how a hydraulic cylinder can simply be connected from one end to the other without some sort of external reservoir. The end without the piston rod is going to displace more hydraulic oil than the other end. I'm not sure how you got around that with yours. Good video though.
Sorry I didn't see your comment earlier. You are correct about a cylinder that is filled at the base end with the rod extended. Especially if the rod is large in diameter in relation to the bore of the cylinder, with ports hooked together, as the rod is pushed in the oil is forced around to the rod end and since the rod displaces part of the volume of that side the cylinder will lock up before the rod is fully collapsed. If the cylinder is filled from the rod end with the rod in all the way, when the rod is pulled out and the oil forced around to the base end and the rod will fully extend due to the larger displacement of the base end. Hope my explanation is understandable! Also notice my cylinder rod diameter is small compared to the bore an never strokes the whole travel in. Thanks for the comment.
@@apowellz Thanks for the reply. So basically it needs a little air space in it to work properly. Makes sense.
2021