GREAT VIDEO.. so many want to act a fool in their videos , This was easy to watch & very informative with good video angles so we could see what you were doing , Thanks
I bought one of these about 7 years ago, it's a generic model, but made in Taiwan. It's a ripper, it's the best investment I ever made, it cuts a square inch of stella material in about 90 seconds. I use bimetallic blades but they never wear out , I've got 3 spares which I bought , Justin case, but they're still on the shelf. There are bits which need adjusting, but nothing's impossible if you put your mind to it. It cuts true, square and straight. Go out and buy one , best $250 you'll ever spend. By the way, the brand doesn't matter. Stavros, never too old to learn!
I bought one of these instead of Grizzly, ShopFox, Jet, etc. because all the online reviews said you get a surprisingly good deal for the buck. Your videos on inspection and assembly were invaluable to me to get it assembled and tweaked-up so it runs properly. THANK YOU!!!
Fantastic video. In Canada we have the same stuff that gets pulled in by a company called Princess Auto, same machines, same horrible English manuals. Thanks a lot boss I’ll use this in my shop as a go to reference.
My belt shredded some also after a couple projects. Both pulleys were kinda sharp and the motor pulley was out of alignment. I fixed those issues and didn't tighten the belt quite as much as before. Seems to be fine now. I'll post a video about this belt issue and how I fixed it later this month.
Awesome video. My HF bandsaw was super crazy out of tune. I had to remove the idler pulley and adjust, adjust the blade tracking and completely reset the guide rollers from scratch.
Phil, this is a very good video and the contents did help quite a bit. Nice of you to share your time. I am curious to find out if you ever made adjustments to accept three-inch stock?
Thank you. I'm making a few modifications to the saw and plan to post a video or videos about it when finished. I'll make sure to include the material clamp mod.
I had a problem with the blade slipping off easily from the drive pulley. So I installed a bike inner tube (cut open) from a childrens bike between the blade and driving pulley. Now I can put more pressure on the blade than before and have less vibrations.
I believe one of the pivot points on the saw arm can be adjusted to change that angle. It's the one on the same side of the saw arm as the large spring. The part that the spring attaches to and the pivot point is drilled into bolts onto the saw arm. Where it's bolted to the saw arm is where I believe it can be adjusted.
I have been looking at purchasing this saw. I cut a lot of 2” square tubing with 1/4” wall thickness. I have an abrasive chili saw now but struggling with accuracy. I thought about a chop saw with carbide blade. Any opinion on this bandsaw over carbide blade saw? Thanks and I appreciate this video.
Now that some adjustments have been made, this saw is quite a bit more accurate than the chop saws I've used over the years. I think it would cut 2 inch material with quarter inch wall thickness very accurately. Operating it takes longer than a chop saw but I am usually doing something else while it's cutting anyway. I'll stay close by to keep an eye on it though.
I've never used a carbide blade saw for cutting steel but a friend of mine has. He said it was very fast and accurate but threw sharp metal shavings all over the place. The blades for those carbide saws are also kind of expensive. But, if I had to make a lot of accurate cuts and needed them done quickly then a carbide blade saw would probably be my choice.
We have a dewalt 14” carbide tipped cutoff saw at work, it makes very fast cuts but vertically speaking the cuts are not accurate, probably due to blade deflection or perhaps some operator error. They make fast cuts but band saws will be much more accurate in general.
I have this same saw. My first blade lasted about an hr. I replaced the blade now I can't get it to cut straight . wonders off 1/4 inch in 1 &1/2 inch bar stock. not enough adjustment in bearing guides to made blade vertical.
I tried adjusting my band saw (same as this one). I mostly cut 1.5" tubes it starts cutting straight but about half way it's starts cutting cricked. can't really figure it out. any advice ?
Sometimes bad blades can cause that. I would try using a different blade. If that didn't fix the problem, I would probably check the alignment of the blade.
I squared the blade to the fence, and it was fine until I change the blade, now the blade hangs down off the Lilly a little more than it used to and it cuts shitty
@@BudgetPhil I just put a blade on... made it 99% through 1 piece of 3.5” aluminized exhaust pipe before it no longer cut.... blade still felt very toothy still and not worn down... think I’m just selling mine and getting a cold cut saw if i can’t figure this out.
Thank you. I don't know if the saw could be modified to use 5/8" blades. It looks like there might be enough room if the blade guards are modified. But the stock blade guide bearings might be a little too narrow to provide enough support for that size of blade, which may negatively affect the saws accuracy and consistency. The pulleys that the blade rides on may also be a little too narrow for a 5/8" blade. But I really don't know.
I think you're right. A wider blade could probably help keep the cut straight. When the saw is adjusted and aligned it actually does pretty good, but I have noticed that when too much downward force is applied while cutting it tends to make the blade twist. Which then causes the saw to be inaccurate. I ended up adjusting the saw arm's spring tension to provide a balance somewhere between accuracy and cut speed.
I think there are a few different things that can cause the blade to wander. If adjusting the guide bearings to square the blade with the table didn't work then I'd probably check the teeth on the blade next. I might check to see that the saw arm is articulating perpendicularly with the table.
I'm not yet available for personal consultation, but if you list your questions here in the comment section I'll do my best to answer. If I'm not able to assist then perhaps another viewer can help.
@@BudgetPhil thanks for your answer, my problem is that the lower puller where the blade travels is touching the back of it, and if i try to adjust it only moves the one that is on the top but the bottom stays the same.
Buying one tomorrow ....thx for the excellent no bs no music video....straight forward and simple...
Glad I could help
GREAT VIDEO.. so many want to act a fool in their videos , This was easy to watch & very informative with good video angles so we could see what you were doing , Thanks
Thank you.
I bought one of these about 7 years ago, it's a generic model, but made in Taiwan. It's a ripper, it's the best investment I ever made, it cuts a square inch of stella material in about 90 seconds. I use bimetallic blades but they never wear out , I've got 3 spares which I bought , Justin case, but they're still on the shelf.
There are bits which need adjusting, but nothing's impossible if you put your mind to it. It cuts true, square and straight.
Go out and buy one , best $250 you'll ever spend.
By the way, the brand doesn't matter.
Stavros, never too old to learn!
Wow, nice comprehensive how- to. Just started using an old one and that helps, thanks.
Thank you. Glad I could help
What’s pretty impressive is how many of the adjustments can be made
Great video, I've got an older one made in 99 that was gifted to me from a yard sale purchase so this has been very helpful in squaring everything.
Thank you
Thank you for this video,the angle cuts is what I've been looking for before I purchase this,I have to cut 4x4 st at a 45°
Nice. To the point and good editing.
Thank you
I bought one of these instead of Grizzly, ShopFox, Jet, etc. because all the online reviews said you get a surprisingly good deal for the buck. Your videos on inspection and assembly were invaluable to me to get it assembled and tweaked-up so it runs properly. THANK YOU!!!
You're welcome. So far it's been a good saw for me also. Well worth the money I paid.
I’m on the hunt for a band saw. Great video.
Thank you
Excellent series of videos on this type of bandsaw. You should do more videos on other machines etc. Easy to understand and well explained, thanks.
Thank you for your kind words. I hope to post many more videos in the future about the tools and machines I play with.
Fantastic video. In Canada we have the same stuff that gets pulled in by a company called Princess Auto, same machines, same horrible English manuals. Thanks a lot boss I’ll use this in my shop as a go to reference.
You're welcome. Thank you for the kind words
Thank you so much. This is my first bandsaw and this helped me with everything I needed help with.
My belt shredded some also after a couple projects. Both pulleys were kinda sharp and the motor pulley was out of alignment. I fixed those issues and didn't tighten the belt quite as much as before. Seems to be fine now. I'll post a video about this belt issue and how I fixed it later this month.
Awesome tips man. Really appreciate the help 🙏
Glad to help
Excellent how-to, thank you!
Your welcome. Thanks for the compliment.
Awesome info, thank you. This helped me change my blade and tune the machine and square the blade up. Really helpful!
You're welcome. Thanks for stopping by
Very helpful video. Well done
Thank you
Awesome video. My HF bandsaw was super crazy out of tune. I had to remove the idler pulley and adjust, adjust the blade tracking and completely reset the guide rollers from scratch.
Phil, this is a very good video and the contents did help quite a bit. Nice of you to share your time. I am curious to find out if you ever made adjustments to accept three-inch stock?
Thank you. I'm making a few modifications to the saw and plan to post a video or videos about it when finished. I'll make sure to include the material clamp mod.
Very instructional video thanks!
Could anybody tell me the standard taper angle on the driven and drive pulleys for metal cutting horizontal bandsaws
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing! I’m looking at this machine so that’s why I’m checking your videos out. Still not sure yet.
Thank you
Well done. Thank you!
-Will
Thanks man
I had a problem with the blade slipping off easily from the drive pulley. So I installed a bike inner tube (cut open) from a childrens bike between the blade and driving pulley. Now I can put more pressure on the blade than before and have less vibrations.
Thanks for the tip.
great video!
Thank you
This video really helped me I was ready to throw the bandsaw in dumpster
I'm glad the video was helpful. Budget tools can be pretty frustrating to deal with sometimes.
Been looking for a way to adjust the overall vertical blade travel to be sguare with the table. Mine is out about 1/16" in 3 1/2" of vertical travel.
I believe one of the pivot points on the saw arm can be adjusted to change that angle. It's the one on the same side of the saw arm as the large spring. The part that the spring attaches to and the pivot point is drilled into bolts onto the saw arm. Where it's bolted to the saw arm is where I believe it can be adjusted.
I have been looking at purchasing this saw. I cut a lot of 2” square tubing with 1/4” wall thickness. I have an abrasive chili saw now but struggling with accuracy. I thought about a chop saw with carbide blade. Any opinion on this bandsaw over carbide blade saw? Thanks and I appreciate this video.
Now that some adjustments have been made, this saw is quite a bit more accurate than the chop saws I've used over the years. I think it would cut 2 inch material with quarter inch wall thickness very accurately. Operating it takes longer than a chop saw but I am usually doing something else while it's cutting anyway. I'll stay close by to keep an eye on it though.
I've never used a carbide blade saw for cutting steel but a friend of mine has. He said it was very fast and accurate but threw sharp metal shavings all over the place. The blades for those carbide saws are also kind of expensive. But, if I had to make a lot of accurate cuts and needed them done quickly then a carbide blade saw would probably be my choice.
We have a dewalt 14” carbide tipped cutoff saw at work, it makes very fast cuts but vertically speaking the cuts are not accurate, probably due to blade deflection or perhaps some operator error. They make fast cuts but band saws will be much more accurate in general.
Excellent. Thank you.
You're welcome
Muy buen video amigo saludos 🤗 👍
Thank you
Thank you, I was having the same issue.
Your welcome
I have this same saw. My first blade lasted about an hr. I replaced the blade now I can't get it to cut straight . wonders off 1/4 inch in 1 &1/2 inch bar stock. not enough adjustment in bearing guides to made blade vertical.
If it cut straight before the blade change then the new blade may be a defective.
Hi Mr.
What causes the bandsaw blade(horizontal) to cut the metal inclined .
My Regards
A defective or damaged blade can cause that. If the blade is not perpendicular to the table, then the blade guides might need adjustment.
I tried adjusting my band saw (same as this one). I mostly cut 1.5" tubes it starts cutting straight but about half way it's starts cutting cricked. can't really figure it out. any advice ?
Sometimes bad blades can cause that. I would try using a different blade. If that didn't fix the problem, I would probably check the alignment of the blade.
My blade will not cut true I don’t know what’s wrong.. I’ve followed your steps and other videos it’s driving me crazy any advice?
It may be a bad blade. I would try a new blade.
Just bought an OLD HF saw! Going to start “adjusting”. What blades are you using? Seem to cut good!
I purchased a cheap after-market blade from harbor freight that works pretty good. I've heard that Lenox makes good blades for these saws.
I was told the guides do not hold the blade. Seems like your using the guide to hold the blade? Is this the correct way?
I use the blade guides to align and guide the blade but it's not clamped tightly between the guide bearings.
@@BudgetPhil mine is cutting all wavy, and idea?
I squared the blade to the fence, and it was fine until I change the blade, now the blade hangs down off the Lilly a little more than it used to and it cuts shitty
A bad blade can cause that.
@@BudgetPhil I just put a blade on... made it 99% through 1 piece of 3.5” aluminized exhaust pipe before it no longer cut.... blade still felt very toothy still and not worn down... think I’m just selling mine and getting a cold cut saw if i can’t figure this out.
Nice series om mods and tweaks. Just a thought... could this saw be modified to take 5/8" blades?
Thank you. I don't know if the saw could be modified to use 5/8" blades. It looks like there might be enough room if the blade guards are modified. But the stock blade guide bearings might be a little too narrow to provide enough support for that size of blade, which may negatively affect the saws accuracy and consistency. The pulleys that the blade rides on may also be a little too narrow for a 5/8" blade. But I really don't know.
@@BudgetPhil I understand was just thinking it should cut straighter with a wider blade.
I think you're right. A wider blade could probably help keep the cut straight. When the saw is adjusted and aligned it actually does pretty good, but I have noticed that when too much downward force is applied while cutting it tends to make the blade twist. Which then causes the saw to be inaccurate. I ended up adjusting the saw arm's spring tension to provide a balance somewhere between accuracy and cut speed.
Does anyone have a link for a good blade replacement
what blades do you recommend? for cutting mainly Steel/Stainless?
I think Lenox bi-metal blades would be a good choice. I've heard good things about Starret and Morse bi-metal blades also.
My ram machinery, just like that one cuts worse than that one, can't seem to dial it in.
I think there are a few different things that can cause the blade to wander. If adjusting the guide bearings to square the blade with the table didn't work then I'd probably check the teeth on the blade next. I might check to see that the saw arm is articulating perpendicularly with the table.
@@BudgetPhil I pit a new blade on mine its cutting great, don't understand it, but I'm not complaining.
The craziest part is that its 250$ lol. Thats a whole lot of tool for 250$
I agree. This saw, once adjusted, performs well for the price.
hello, i need your help to adjust my saw, can i contact you pls?
I'm not yet available for personal consultation, but if you list your questions here in the comment section I'll do my best to answer. If I'm not able to assist then perhaps another viewer can help.
@@BudgetPhil thanks for your answer, my problem is that the lower puller where the blade travels is touching the back of it, and if i try to adjust it only moves the one that is on the top but the bottom stays the same.
Think I had a similar problem. I increased the blade tension and the blade backed off the lower pulley slightly.
Typical H-F junk.
I find it amazing that we buy a NEW product & need to make it right when we get it home. BUY AMERICAN....
It's $200. What do you expect to get? Go spend 2k on one and guess what? Still have adjust it.
The saw was time consuming to adjust but the price was much lower than anything else I could find like it.