I have the Glowforge plus and have had it since 2020. I refurbished it myself and it’s working great! However, I know that the life will not last for too much longer and would like to upgrade. I am still hesitant on jumping into the Onelaser Just because it’s barely been out and there aren’t very many videos and I just am a little worried about putting down a bunch of money for something that’s not known very well, but on the other hand, I hate to miss out on the discount. Needing some advice!
Hello new subscriber😁 been looking at getting some type of cutting machine i want it for cutting 3k carbon fibre sheet for fpv drone racing frames also its mostly small parts cutting area doesnt need to be that big 300mm square qould work what would you recommend for this material ? laser or CNC router??? Thanks
Although a galvo base system for process one little pcs may be faster from what my experience, a high-speed gantry system is likely much more efficient for a large batch processing. However, for cutting, if the material is not directly below the galvo head, it can result in a steep cutting edge.
just got an xtool p2s, setting it up now and have to put distilled water and antifreeze in thee tube. BUT does it really need antifreeze when it's in a room that wont go below 10°C ?
I have the Creality 22W Pro Bundle. My advice to anyone looking at this laser, save up for something better. You find out really quick how limited the machine is and how poorly built it is (wobbly legs, wobbly laser module, cords barely plug in, airflow is horrid making it shut down every 20-30min). After about 2 months I put it under a shelf in my building and haven't touched it since. Creality is an FDM printer company just trying to stay relevant so their support on their lasers are non-existent. Maybe I got a dud, but my friend bought one as well and had a similar experience. I know it's a cheap entry level laser, but I have a hard time supporting a $500+ paperweight.
Biggest downside of cheap laser cutter/engraver for me is inability to cut clear acrylic. I have 10W super cheap Atomstack and it can cut very thick wood and engrave leather, wood, whatever not transparent. But time to time I would love to cut something transparent since that is something I can't print on 3D printer.
This is not even close to being a fair representation of what each of those lasers can achieve. You can get much, *much* better results from the Creality (and other cheap diode lasers). Either your speed was too low or you power was too high. You are *_not_* "definitely going to get a darker mark with the diode", it'll always depend on the power and speed. You can dial them up / down enough that it will barely mark the surface at all. Always start by printing a test grid.
I’ve done a good bit of testing and you wind up just going deeper into the wood vs having a darker engrave on CO2s. But your right I could have gotten a clearer engrave I try to mention that as well
@@makeorbreakshop - The issue wasn't the CO2 laser, it was the diode. If anything, less powerful diode lasers generally give you better control for photo "engraving" (more like printing, really), compared to CO2 lasers that tend to be tuned more for cutting, and sometimes don't let you go low enough to fine-tune photos.
@@RFC3514 If you have an RF CO2 tube, that problem is solved. A diode has a more penetrating effect on certain materials, but the limitations are also significant, i wouldnt use diode for any serious production, the diode itself never invented for laser industry to begin with.
@@MakerDaddy - It's not a problem at all, you just have to adjust it for the material. Low power diode lasers are generally quite good at preserving detail and intermediate tones when burning photos, contrary to what this video implies. It's when you need to _cut_ things that they tend to be too slow.
@@RFC3514 I might not have been as clear in the video as I should have, but the fact that you can go darker with a diode is a good thing and let's you get nicer photo engraves vs a CO2.
8:51 that 3rd one made by omtech Pro is just .... 😅 So, you are telling me, omtech pro is minimum 300% higer cost than other two options, with 40% lower efficiency and produce the worst result in this comparison, wow, im shocked, but thank you!
Doing a poor job at material calibration doesn’t make a cheap laser better than a nice one. This is a huge failure in the host, and not the equipment. Learn to use a laser before misleading all these people
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I have the Glowforge plus and have had it since 2020. I refurbished it myself and it’s working great! However, I know that the life will not last for too much longer and would like to upgrade. I am still hesitant on jumping into the Onelaser Just because it’s barely been out and there aren’t very many videos and I just am a little worried about putting down a bunch of money for something that’s not known very well, but on the other hand, I hate to miss out on the discount. Needing some advice!
Hello new subscriber😁 been looking at getting some type of cutting machine i want it for cutting 3k carbon fibre sheet for fpv drone racing frames also its mostly small parts cutting area doesnt need to be that big 300mm square qould work what would you recommend for this material ? laser or CNC router??? Thanks
one thing to note is the F1 Ultra for smaller jobs and dual lasers Diode & Fiber and around 10,000 mm/s speeds around $4000
good point, I didn't include fiber/galvo machines at all since they are their own whole category but plan on comparing them in the future!
@@makeorbreakshop Sweet yeah.. love my F1 Ultra! Got the AP unit too.. The air in the room registers cleaner when its on than when its off LOL..
@@makeorbreakshop It would be nice to see the comparison with the galvo style F1 Ultra.
Although a galvo base system for process one little pcs may be faster from what my experience, a high-speed gantry system is likely much more efficient for a large batch processing. However, for cutting, if the material is not directly below the galvo head, it can result in a steep cutting edge.
just got an xtool p2s, setting it up now and have to put distilled water and antifreeze in thee tube. BUT does it really need antifreeze when it's in a room that wont go below 10°C ?
You should be good if your not dropping below freezing
@@makeorbreakshop Thankyou :-)
What's the best enclosed laser for wood. acrylic nightlights. And metal please. 🎉❤I really love ur videos
How deep can those lasers cut?
Would you like a copy of my CAM software?
Would love to see you do a video on the Longer nano pro, 12w galvo diode, 100x100
I’ll add it to the list!
I have the Creality 22W Pro Bundle. My advice to anyone looking at this laser, save up for something better. You find out really quick how limited the machine is and how poorly built it is (wobbly legs, wobbly laser module, cords barely plug in, airflow is horrid making it shut down every 20-30min). After about 2 months I put it under a shelf in my building and haven't touched it since. Creality is an FDM printer company just trying to stay relevant so their support on their lasers are non-existent. Maybe I got a dud, but my friend bought one as well and had a similar experience. I know it's a cheap entry level laser, but I have a hard time supporting a $500+ paperweight.
Biggest downside of cheap laser cutter/engraver for me is inability to cut clear acrylic. I have 10W super cheap Atomstack and it can cut very thick wood and engrave leather, wood, whatever not transparent. But time to time I would love to cut something transparent since that is something I can't print on 3D printer.
This is not even close to being a fair representation of what each of those lasers can achieve. You can get much, *much* better results from the Creality (and other cheap diode lasers). Either your speed was too low or you power was too high.
You are *_not_* "definitely going to get a darker mark with the diode", it'll always depend on the power and speed. You can dial them up / down enough that it will barely mark the surface at all. Always start by printing a test grid.
I’ve done a good bit of testing and you wind up just going deeper into the wood vs having a darker engrave on CO2s. But your right I could have gotten a clearer engrave I try to mention that as well
@@makeorbreakshop - The issue wasn't the CO2 laser, it was the diode. If anything, less powerful diode lasers generally give you better control for photo "engraving" (more like printing, really), compared to CO2 lasers that tend to be tuned more for cutting, and sometimes don't let you go low enough to fine-tune photos.
@@RFC3514 If you have an RF CO2 tube, that problem is solved. A diode has a more penetrating effect on certain materials, but the limitations are also significant, i wouldnt use diode for any serious production, the diode itself never invented for laser industry to begin with.
@@MakerDaddy - It's not a problem at all, you just have to adjust it for the material. Low power diode lasers are generally quite good at preserving detail and intermediate tones when burning photos, contrary to what this video implies. It's when you need to _cut_ things that they tend to be too slow.
@@RFC3514 I might not have been as clear in the video as I should have, but the fact that you can go darker with a diode is a good thing and let's you get nicer photo engraves vs a CO2.
AKA learn how to use settings properly
ha alaways
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8:51 that 3rd one made by omtech Pro is just .... 😅 So, you are telling me, omtech pro is minimum 300% higer cost than other two options, with 40% lower efficiency and produce the worst result in this comparison, wow, im shocked, but thank you!
It’s more that i wouldn’t get a super high powered CO2 tube for engraving, kind of like buying a chainsaw for fine engraving…
@@makeorbreakshop I agree, if that 150W has a smaller wattage RF tube, it would make much more sense.
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Doing a poor job at material calibration doesn’t make a cheap laser better than a nice one.
This is a huge failure in the host, and not the equipment. Learn to use a laser before misleading all these people