81 upvotes .. a joke .. should be more like 80M ... this is one of the very best actually practical hands on yt videos I have seen; I feel that I am actually the guy doing the stuff .. so well explained and so logical - everything makes sense - the challenge, the compromise - this is where most of us are in diy electronics all over the globe! Well done sir
In the absence of being able to solder that centre pad, then I would use a tiny dab of thermal paste. A dob of solder on that middle pad is a bad idea as it limits the surface area. It will make for a very poor thermal contact. There are also silver epoxy mounting pastes that will transfer heat efficiently and you can guarantee good contact. Not cheap, but then you only need tiny amounts. Finally, a heat gun approach from a soldering station might work, probably aimed at the back of the heatsink, but it's essential to use low temperature soldering paste as an LED like that is unlikely to withstand the temperature required to melt lead-free solder (although soldering the tabs is OK). I would go with the cheap thermal paste approach first and do some tests (although at 1W those star mounts will need to be thermally bonded to a bigger heat sink of some sort as even those get too hot at 1W (let along the 3W or more LEDs that are available).
Solder center pad for better heat transfert. Put the solder tip with power above 40W well tinned under the mcpcb until it melt, slight press down Led until it solidifies. Before this, better not have traces of solder on the pin pads or the solder will be raised
Really helpful, thank you! My biggest takeaway is the clothes peg idea. I struggle with clamping for all sorts of electronics/building projects and that's just simple genius!
I have exactly the same ... a bag o' sinks from ebay + a bag o' lights from ebay. Just love the floating vice idea and the wooden clothes peg - genius!!! I will get to work following what you say - so useful to see this in advance. Slightly unsure about your "raised pimple in the middle" idea ... that may cause only a few actual metal to metal contact points reducing the conduction of heat to the sink?.. I get what you say - you don't want an air gap there .. I might try a bit of lightly crumpled kitchen foil. Kudos to you bruv.
I have a similar situation. I need to solder LED to a star PCB. Would it be possible to use thermal paste(compound) instead of solder to transfer heat from LED to PCB? Like we do in case of peltier module
Probably yes, if you find a good way to establish a firm mechanical connection between the LED and the star PCB heat sink. After all, also modern CPUs can get rid of excess heat through this paste. So far I've only come across examples of people using thermal paste to thermally couple the star PCB heat sink to a second heat sink, or to a metal case, like in here: ruclips.net/video/DFIbWeLoz0A/видео.html
Here s a helpful tip.... you bend the 2 pins upword.... they re going to act like a spring to keep led contact with heatsink... solder the first pin with led at an angl... than you can put heatsink compound if you like.... than you press the other pin and solder it... voila... easy and perfect heat transfer
Solder center pad for better heat transfert. Put the solder tip with power above 40W well tinned under the mcpcb until it melt, slight press down Led until it solidifies. Before this, better not have traces of solder on the pin pads or the solder will be raised
05:16 "to there, the center, and there"... instead of "there" and "there", the next solder pads in respectively clockwise direction would have been the correct choice, i.e., when you rotate the LED by 60 degrees clockwise. If you compare those two adjacent pads with the pads which you intend to solder to, you will realize that they have a different and asymmetric orientation on the PCB, just like the plus and minus pins of the LED are asymmetric. Also, these two solder pads extend much closer to the center pad. 06:00 You're not very optimistic about how long the LED is going to last, are you? :D
OK, I just took a look again and you are quite right I should have soldered onto the two "offset" pads. Not sure how I missed that! Regarding "to there, the centre and there" are you suggesting that you would attempt to solder the LED chip down if your only equipment was a soldering iron? I have some time off over Xmas so I might have another go at soldering one of these, possibly preheating with a hot air gun.
@@PizzeyTechnology I just went through the same problems. :-) Telling from the lots of videos I've seen so far, I don't think that a soldering iron would be a good tool to do that. There are two options: Solder from front side, or from the back side. If you try the latter, then you can't get good thermal contact with the soldering iron, which would mean it takes really long until the solder between LED and PCB would get liquid, and I doubt the LED would survive. Or you tin the back side in order to get better thermal contact, but then the backside isn't flat any more, and it gets impossible to mount it on a heat sink. Soldering from front side isn't really possible either, because the plastic case and the lense of the LED would get damaged. I came across videos like this one, ruclips.net/video/M8b8Yn78UFE/видео.html , but don't really like the idea of heating the LEDs from above. Maybe with a bit of practice, the candle method could be perfected: ruclips.net/video/eqCVZmPU8X4/видео.html But there's always the chance of damaging the LEDs by excessive heat. The price differences aren't really that large at all, so I think in future I'm always going to buy LEDs which are already assembled on the star PCB. Whichever way you're going to try to do it, I wish you good luck with it!
You will need to put in a current limiting system or it will rapidly burn out. If you use the simplest system, a current limiting resistor, and the forward bias is 3.2 V, and the maximum a Li-Ion cell will get up to at full charge is 4.2 V, then at 300 mV that's a 3.3 ohm resistor to give a 1V drop, and it will dissipate up to 0.3 W. However, it's not ideal as when the cell discharges and reached 3.7V, that's only a 0.5 V drop and the current, and light output will be halved. What you really want is an LED driver designed to work off of a Li-Ion cell. The easiest way is to look for a "flashlight LED driver", which are designed for exactly that purpose. The bonus is that you can usually control power levels and it's more efficient than a resistive dropper and will maintain light levels. However, be careful to make sure it can't over-drive a particular LED and it's not as cheap as a simple resistive dropper.
I bought the 1W LEDs and heat sinks on eBay. I selected these as I wanted to try soldering the LEDs to heatsinks myself, but I have since purchased more 1W LEDs pre-soldered to their heatsinks. I suggest you do the same as in fact they worked out cheaper.
I have a similar situation. I need to solder LED to a star PCB. Would it be possible to use thermal paste(compound) instead of solder to transfer heat from LED to PCB? Like we do in case of peltier module
@@ajinkyakabbur4511 unless the LEDs are mechanically fixed down I would not rely on thermal grease alone. Of course the best thing to do would be to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but in my case these were unbranded components from eBay with no datasheet. Where are you sourcing your components from?
I found a small heating pad on Amazon that was made for reflux soldering. I can mount five bare beads at a time on star mounts Place the LED’s with their legs on the correct pads on the star mounts, making sure the polarities match. Apply soldering paste under the beads and on the contact pads. Plug in the heat plate and in a couple of minutes or so you will start to see changes. The soldering paste spreads a bit, may smoke some, then you will see the silvery solder starting to melt together as the paste disappears. As this happens the LED’s actually position themselves correctly on the pads with the melting solder before coming to their final resting point. Once this has happened, unplug the heating plate and leave the LED’s on the heating surface to cool down. The whole thing will turn out to be much simpler in real life than I can describe here.
81 upvotes .. a joke .. should be more like 80M ... this is one of the very best actually practical hands on yt videos I have seen; I feel that I am actually the guy doing the stuff .. so well explained and so logical - everything makes sense - the challenge, the compromise - this is where most of us are in diy electronics all over the globe! Well done sir
In the absence of being able to solder that centre pad, then I would use a tiny dab of thermal paste. A dob of solder on that middle pad is a bad idea as it limits the surface area. It will make for a very poor thermal contact. There are also silver epoxy mounting pastes that will transfer heat efficiently and you can guarantee good contact. Not cheap, but then you only need tiny amounts. Finally, a heat gun approach from a soldering station might work, probably aimed at the back of the heatsink, but it's essential to use low temperature soldering paste as an LED like that is unlikely to withstand the temperature required to melt lead-free solder (although soldering the tabs is OK).
I would go with the cheap thermal paste approach first and do some tests (although at 1W those star mounts will need to be thermally bonded to a bigger heat sink of some sort as even those get too hot at 1W (let along the 3W or more LEDs that are available).
Solder center pad for better heat transfert. Put the solder tip with power above 40W well tinned under the mcpcb until it melt, slight press down Led until it solidifies. Before this, better not have traces of solder on the pin pads or the solder will be raised
Really helpful, thank you! My biggest takeaway is the clothes peg idea. I struggle with clamping for all sorts of electronics/building projects and that's just simple genius!
I have exactly the same ... a bag o' sinks from ebay + a bag o' lights from ebay. Just love the floating vice idea and the wooden clothes peg - genius!!! I will get to work following what you say - so useful to see this in advance. Slightly unsure about your "raised pimple in the middle" idea ... that may cause only a few actual metal to metal contact points reducing the conduction of heat to the sink?.. I get what you say - you don't want an air gap there .. I might try a bit of lightly crumpled kitchen foil. Kudos to you bruv.
Update.. I got some thermal paste which should do the job nicely
I have a similar situation. I need to solder LED to a star PCB. Would it be possible to use thermal paste(compound) instead of solder to transfer heat from LED to PCB?
Like we do in case of peltier module
Probably yes, if you find a good way to establish a firm mechanical connection between the LED and the star PCB heat sink. After all, also modern CPUs can get rid of excess heat through this paste.
So far I've only come across examples of people using thermal paste to thermally couple the star PCB heat sink to a second heat sink, or to a metal case, like in here: ruclips.net/video/DFIbWeLoz0A/видео.html
Yes put it on the center and solder the positive and negative contacts
Here s a helpful tip.... you bend the 2 pins upword.... they re going to act like a spring to keep led contact with heatsink... solder the first pin with led at an angl... than you can put heatsink compound if you like.... than you press the other pin and solder it... voila... easy and perfect heat transfer
Thanks for that.
Hi you need to use heatsink compound for those leds to take away the heat from them
what is that compound and where do you source it?
Solder center pad for better heat transfert. Put the solder tip with power above 40W well tinned under the mcpcb until it melt, slight press down Led until it solidifies. Before this, better not have traces of solder on the pin pads or the solder will be raised
What was the camera model# used to record this video if you don’t mind me asking?
Probably my old JVC camcorder. Must be about 15 years old now and rarely gets used.
why would you want to put solder under the LED? I would think it makes worse contact with the heatsink then without.
Nice video but tell me what wire do you use for that leds
7/0.1 stranded wire or similar. I tend to run LEDs at less than their rated current and wires tend to be short.
@@PizzeyTechnology dnt you have a link we're they sell it
which driver I need if I use one watt 26 smd led heatsink in parallel circuit for vc supply
Sorry, but I don't understand your question.
Bang bagus grease apa silicone grease?
05:16 "to there, the center, and there"... instead of "there" and "there", the next solder pads in respectively clockwise direction would have been the correct choice, i.e., when you rotate the LED by 60 degrees clockwise. If you compare those two adjacent pads with the pads which you intend to solder to, you will realize that they have a different and asymmetric orientation on the PCB, just like the plus and minus pins of the LED are asymmetric. Also, these two solder pads extend much closer to the center pad.
06:00 You're not very optimistic about how long the LED is going to last, are you? :D
OK, I just took a look again and you are quite right I should have soldered onto the two "offset" pads. Not sure how I missed that! Regarding "to there, the centre and there" are you suggesting that you would attempt to solder the LED chip down if your only equipment was a soldering iron? I have some time off over Xmas so I might have another go at soldering one of these, possibly preheating with a hot air gun.
@@PizzeyTechnology I just went through the same problems. :-) Telling from the lots of videos I've seen so far, I don't think that a soldering iron would be a good tool to do that.
There are two options: Solder from front side, or from the back side. If you try the latter, then you can't get good thermal contact with the soldering iron, which would mean it takes really long until the solder between LED and PCB would get liquid, and I doubt the LED would survive. Or you tin the back side in order to get better thermal contact, but then the backside isn't flat any more, and it gets impossible to mount it on a heat sink. Soldering from front side isn't really possible either, because the plastic case and the lense of the LED would get damaged.
I came across videos like this one, ruclips.net/video/M8b8Yn78UFE/видео.html , but don't really like the idea of heating the LEDs from above. Maybe with a bit of practice, the candle method could be perfected: ruclips.net/video/eqCVZmPU8X4/видео.html But there's always the chance of damaging the LEDs by excessive heat.
The price differences aren't really that large at all, so I think in future I'm always going to buy LEDs which are already assembled on the star PCB.
Whichever way you're going to try to do it, I wish you good luck with it!
Can I use 18650 3.7v on this 1w led?
You will need to put in a current limiting system or it will rapidly burn out. If you use the simplest system, a current limiting resistor, and the forward bias is 3.2 V, and the maximum a Li-Ion cell will get up to at full charge is 4.2 V, then at 300 mV that's a 3.3 ohm resistor to give a 1V drop, and it will dissipate up to 0.3 W. However, it's not ideal as when the cell discharges and reached 3.7V, that's only a 0.5 V drop and the current, and light output will be halved.
What you really want is an LED driver designed to work off of a Li-Ion cell. The easiest way is to look for a "flashlight LED driver", which are designed for exactly that purpose. The bonus is that you can usually control power levels and it's more efficient than a resistive dropper and will maintain light levels. However, be careful to make sure it can't over-drive a particular LED and it's not as cheap as a simple resistive dropper.
Oh My! - Use thermal paste in the middle. I can't believe it!
My led heating....but . I sold on heatshrink why pls reply
Do you mean soldered onto a heatsink?
@@PizzeyTechnology no... Pls tell
Hi. Where can i buy this leds? What name or number have this led?
Thx
I bought the 1W LEDs and heat sinks on eBay. I selected these as I wanted to try soldering the LEDs to heatsinks myself, but I have since purchased more 1W LEDs pre-soldered to their heatsinks. I suggest you do the same as in fact they worked out cheaper.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PCS-1W-High-Power-Cool-White-LED-Light-Emitter-6500-7000K-with-20mm-Heatsink/251373119457
I have a similar situation. I need to solder LED to a star PCB. Would it be possible to use thermal paste(compound) instead of solder to transfer heat from LED to PCB?
Like we do in case of peltier module
@@ajinkyakabbur4511 unless the LEDs are mechanically fixed down I would not rely on thermal grease alone. Of course the best thing to do would be to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but in my case these were unbranded components from eBay with no datasheet. Where are you sourcing your components from?
@@PizzeyTechnology I get your point. Thanks for the help.
I bought them from a local electronics shop. So no datasheets here as well.
Use low temp soldering paste.
You need to solder bottom as well. not just press it against it.
Surface mount soldering paste and a heat gun? Most likely that's a good solution but I had a go with the tools available.
You are supposed to use thermal paste on the center.
thermal compound in the center pad.... not solder...
I know it really doesn't matter but, he used the wrong pads.
You are correct.
Uh, you soldered the leads to the wrong pads... I mean, it works, but that's what the thinner offset ones are for.
you are not suppose to solder that central pad
Bake it in a toaster oven 😅
Meh, I think i’ll pass. I’ll place some solder paste and let it reflow on a pan with aluminum foil between the star board and pan surface.
I found a small heating pad on Amazon that was made for reflux soldering.
I can mount five bare beads at a time on star mounts
Place the LED’s with their legs on the correct pads on the star mounts, making sure the polarities match.
Apply soldering paste under the beads and on the contact pads.
Plug in the heat plate and in a couple of minutes or so you will start to see changes. The soldering paste spreads a bit, may smoke some, then you will see the silvery solder starting to melt together as the paste disappears. As this happens the LED’s actually position themselves correctly on the pads with the melting solder before coming to their final resting point.
Once this has happened, unplug the heating plate and leave the LED’s on the heating surface to cool down.
The whole thing will turn out to be much simpler in real life than I can describe here.
this is how NOT to solder...