Tips For a Perfect Panel Glue Up
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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When you need wide pieces for a project and don’t want to use sheet stock, man made material, you’ll be doing a panel glue up; gluing pieces edge to edge. There are a handful of things that need to happen to create a successful edge to edge glue up. A well constructed panel glue up will have grain match, color match, good glue joints, and come out flat. Here are a number of tips that will help you compose great panels for your projects.
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COMMON QUESTIONS WHEN ATTEMPTING A GLUE-UP
A number of common questions about crafting a panel glue up are answered on this video. How many clamps should I use? How do I keep track of boards on a large glue up? Should I reinforce the joint with biscuits or something similar? How much glue should I use? How do I keep the panel flat as I’m clamping? How tight should the clamps be? How do I deal with squeeze out? Each of these questions is addressed.
MORE GLUING AND CLAMPING TECHNIQUES
Gluing and clamping techniques are part of woodworking, and it’s important to understand what glue to use, and how to best clamp your project pieces. Sometimes, despite our best efforts, a glue-up goes badly. Prevention is worth a pound of cure, but it’s also good to have some tricks up your sleeve to take care of these after-the-fact problems.
For more information on Titebond Original Wood Glue visit www.titebond.com, or call (800) 347-4583.
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Thanks for the 45-degree clamp force explanation! Seen tons of videos on this topic and nobody mentioned how far apart the clamps should be or why.
It all depends on the width of the boards, that it.
I have been using a couple clamping cauls lately but probably wouldn't need them if I wasn't over tightening the main clamps.
Thank you, perfect explanation. I am very new to working with wood and now realise I am over tightening my clamps.
Great information. I have been tightening my clamps too tight. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Keep in mind that the glue is going to be holding the wood together, not the clamps. All the clamps are there for is to hold the pieces together (without allowing them to moving around) while the glue dries.
I understand about not too much clamping pressure, still, I'm surprised you didn't use cauls to ensure the panel pieces remained coplanar?
Answered all my questions...including a couple I didn't think of.
Great video. I'm a beginning woodworker and having trouble with gluing up my cutting board projects. Thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge. The rub joint really intrigued me. Definitely going going to try it. Once again thank you.
First time I came across your channel and you're good... nice detailed step by step, something like myself who is just starting woodworking as a hobby really needs.. you're a great Teacher ... thanks
Junior M q
When do you recommend removing the wood from the clamps? I have found if I wait too long the glue on the underside of the boards dries to the clamps.
Just use wax paper anywhere the glue would end up falling onto.
Keith Gatewood I wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag a few minutes after gluing and clamping. After about 3 hours I take the clamps off.
Really appreciated this tutorial. A question about glue cleanup. If you remove it at the semi-gel state, do you need to use an additional cleaning methods? I’ve had some staining projects that had some glue residue. How do I avoid this most effectively?
I'm with Junior M. Great videos!!
Question: What about clamp clean up? Why not use something that will keep the glue of the bar of the clamps?
Hi Michael. I generally just scrape the glue off afterward, but sure, you can put something over the clamps to keep the glue off if you want. Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Great tips, thanks
Question -- I saw another RUclips woodworker (very respected) who talked about biscuits. He, too, stated that they really didn't add to the strength of the joint, and echoed that the glue would be stronger than the surrounding wood. However, he also said (if I understood him correctly) that biscuits (or dowels, etc.) might be helpful to keep the pieces aligned if it's a long build, like the 8' (plus breadboards) table that I'll be building soon. I'm using 2x10s and 2x12s, so they'll be thick and quite long. Do you suggest the use of biscuits or dowels or the like? Thanks for any and all suggestions and insights for this rookie woodworker!
Hi Tim. If the planks are long, then biscuits are a good alignment aid. I don't necessarily suggest using them in this situation, but i wouldn't discourage it either. What I would suggest doing is gluing up in phases so that you are only gluing one joint at a time. That will let you focus all of your attention on a single joint rather than feeling rushed and gluing up multiples in a single stage. But there's no penalty for adding biscuits to this equation as well if it increases your confidence. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Thanks -- I appreciate your professional insights, and your taking the time to respond!
Good information. Thanks for sharing!
What is the best glue for exterior and on cedar. Wooduck box that I do not have wide enough boards
Great question! I have submitted your question to George and our experts. Please watch this space for their reply. It typically takes 1-2 business days. Thanks!
If you are asking what glue to use to edge glue cedar boards for birdhouse construction, I would recommend Titebond 3. It has plenty of bond strength and is water proof.
Best of luck,
Paul
Thank you
I want to join work.
I'm working on my first major woodworking project, right now. I'm building a 6'x32" table top. I've already spent what I plan to on this project, but only have two 36" long clamps and six 4" clamps. I can't secure the middle after gluing and intend on using pocket screws along with the glue. Is not having a middle clamp a bad thing?
Hello. It would be best to buy or borrow more clamps. For this glue up, depending on the width of your planks, I’d probably use about 6 clamps that would span the full width of the top. You’ll regret it for years if you can see gaps or glue lines. Thanks.
What about the time
I didn’t hear you comment on an approximate time frame involved in drying. Please advise.
Hello Mark,
PVA glue is generally ready to remove from clamps after an hour or two. For a complicated glue-up or one with a lot of glue surface area, it's a good idea to let it set up overnight before removing.
Hope this help,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
What kind of paper is that. And where do you get it?
Hello Doug,
t's called Rosin paper: amzn.to/2u6haSE.
It's great stuff. It's pretty thick so it offers decent protection,
and it's durable so I re-use it 2-3 times before tossing it.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
WoodWorkers Guild Of America thank you.
Excellent video and great process. Thanks for sharing.
Good info, thanks
if after gluing the table top there is 1/32 inch gap twelve inches long on the table top. would you re-rip and re-glue or do you have another suggestions?
Hello Jim,
It depends on your tolerance for how this looks visually. You could
attempt to disguise it with some glue and sanding dust but it would be
hard to hide it completely. If a perfect looking seem is important I
would re-rip it, re-joint and glue it.
Hope this helps!
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
How would you recommend gluing the boards on top of each other to make big timber for turning or making a post
Hello Gavin,
I would run all of the boards through a planer to prepare your glue surface. Then glue and clamp. Use a lot of clamps along the length of boards to be glued up in a lamination to ensure a good bond.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated.
The problem we’ve been having, after leaving the boards to set in the clamps overnight, then planning and dressing them to size on the jointer/thicknesser the next day is the boards seem to have a little gap on the glue lines where they haven’t bonded but I’m guessing where not using enough clamps and I’ve noticed there not spreading the glue when gluing up which I think is essential.
I hope that you please want to answer my question:-) If you just glue the board as you find pretty, what then about grain direction?
Fried Mupppp
How do you prevent glue from contacting the metal bar of the clamp?
put a piece of wax paper between th clamp and the wood
What type of clamps are those? Uniklamps? Revo? Revo Jr? Thanks for the rest video!
Hi Andrew. Those are an older version of these: amzn.to/2E7ohOU
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
great advice,as always.keep it coming.:-)
All good information but he never touched on jointing the edges for gluing. Jointing is essential for a good seamless fit between the boards.
Christopher Ross he does, starting at about 5:55
Good
Where did you get your clamps? What brand are they?
Tracy, those are an older model Bessey parallel bar clamp. Those were great, but the newer ones are even better with an improved locking mechanism and better handle grips: amzn.to/2x5fzhA
....someone told me a long time ago that the glues strength came from compression..Ie :tighter the clamps,stronger the joint.
Is this to say they are wrong?! 😂
I almost feel silly here looking at the cheater bar next to my clamps
I’ve most of my life tried to just stop short of crushing the wood 😳
Not to mention extra money spent on clamps that can withstand the force.
Hello Andrew,
Yes, someone told you wrong. :)
In fact, too much clamp pressure can potentially weaken the joint by squeezing out too much glue.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
WoodWorkers Guild Of America
God dang it !! 😡 thank you so much ...I feel so silly... I’ve always laughed at those “pistol gripped” clamps ...thought of the people that used them as half hearted....
DANG !! 😂 well thanks again...
All these years !?!?
Better late than never I suppose.
One of my old teachers taught me tighter=better too. This is great to know. I made a top for a wine cabinet out of mahogany and it ended up bowed after the panel glue up. I’m guessing that was because my clamps were too tight?
if the board is not even can I pass it thru the electric planer?
Why video kvality only 480 dpi? In 2017 ?
because they are woodworkers.. They really don't know anything about computers, codec and stuffs.
aren't you supposed to alternate the ring orientation to prevent cuping ? otherwise you'll end with a large half pipe if you put all the panels in the same orientation. But on average, if you do it randomly, it should be ok I guess
Hello,
This is a longstanding debate among woodworkers, and I'll give you my
opinion. As long as your lumber is dry and stable you really don't need
to worry about alternating the rings. I generally optimize for
appearance rather than ring orientation. If the wood isn't fully dry and
stable then you should stop your project and allow the wood to achieve
equilibrium before proceeding rather than trying average out the problem
by alternating rings. A wavy top might put a bit less stress on the
table's structure but it will still look terrible.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
+xl, Wood warps when it's moisture content changes so if your wood is properly cured its moisture content won't be changing and it's not going to warp (more than it is already). That said, if you're making a table top for a picnic table or some other project that will be exposed to varying air conditions then I'd worry about grain orientation.
@@fred_derf Absolutely correct! It's a fact not a debate...
you are very informative, but every time I see you I laugh you look just like and talk like Groucho Marks. I think he's great to.