Willys Truck Take Two: Will it Ever Run Again & Viewer Mail
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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When you get the puller tight, the most effective thing you can do is take the wrench off and give the end of the forcing screw a couple whacks with the sledge. Repeat the tightening and smacking the end of the forcing screw until it comes off. I would not want to be hitting that drum directly with a hammer. This has never failed me when using any kind of forcing screw tools on stuff that is really stuck. Smacking the part directly is nowhere near as effective and runs a much higher risk of breaking things you don't want broke. Glad you got it off.
Not to smart if he dont
one solid smack on the end of the puller shaft
Glad to see someone keeping history alive thank you
those cars were meant to race time, like almost all vehicles back then were. a few new mods and it'll be nice. maybe xenon lights for the hadlights
HEAT FROM A TORCH IS A GOOD MOTIVATOR FOR STUCK PARTS!👍
I love old Willy's trucks. I can't wait to see this one on the road again.
'Dude I know what you're thinking...leave it there over night'. You read my thoughts all right. If you continue, I recommend a hockey jock cup at least.
How fun to watch a novice or someone acting as novice. Everyone wants to be right there with you. Like you could use a little help. But you doing good. You're going to learn or teach alot!.
I'm an old school mechanic, a little advice for your engine if it is still locked up get yourself some Marvel Mystery Oil and fill each cylinder and oil pan, you can also fill the rest of the running gear with it. It will help break up the rest and get things moving again
Heat from a torch would expand the drum.
There! I knew I would find that solution if I read the comments. I was thinking, Dad would apply heat to expand. But how? So, you would have used a torch?
Yes.
I Dig Daytona i
I Dig Daytona that's what I was thinking
if all else fails fix it with fire
When pulling the drum, reverse the castle nut and turn it in flush with the end of the spindle. This will catch the drum when it comes loose.
thanks, thanks for watching!! Take a sec and subscribe and hang around with us
Live in a smalll town, the auto stores stock all sorts of old "new stock" parts. Ebay is another source of old "new" parts that I rebuilt my M131A1 military jeep with. Have fun!
Because those shoes wear a groove in the drum. Removing them is some times breaks stuff. However, you MUST back the adjuster all the way off. Once your sure nothing holding it but the bond between the shoes and the drum. Time to beat the whey out of it. Bear in mind. Not all will come apart without damage. 👍
11:09 "Probably gonna need a rebuild on the brakes!" No way, hahaha.
That's an impressive grade of Chinesium on that puller.
My dad linked me the video. Living in VT, we have much experience with rust.
Hope the project is going well!
Anyone watching this make sure you leave the nut on but loose enough for the drum to move. I seen one of them come off and break a guys leg. Heat would have been your friend,even just a small torch. I was in fear for you the whole time.
You can test your generator by “motoring it” in your other video, using a battery. The clips you picked out of the brakes are the spring clips that hold the brake shoes onto the backing plate. You can also adjust the shoes in so they don’t catch the drum.
dude, your comments crack me up!!! They make the video for me.....
I love old cars but it bothers me to see beautiful vehicles going to waste like this but when they have a second chance at life it is so nice.
If you need help go to the AACA website and ask any questions that you may have in the General Discussion category. I guarantee there will be guys there that can help you get this Jeep running and driving. Good luck....
Take out all of the plugs and fill each plug hole with marvel mystery oil. This will help break the engine free. You might have to rebuild the transmission because it is frozen also. The rear end take it off as one unit unbolt it from the springs and tear it down and rebuild it.
Taking a picture was a smart idea.
a bot of heat on the drum will help loosen the rust while you use your puller.. You trust those old wheel studs more than I would. Patience patience.
I have been trying to think of the actor who you sound a bit like...it was lingering at the edge of my consciousness but the more I listened to your humor, it struck me...the late Bill Paxton... a fine actor. Totally random, I know - but there it is. You make entertaining commentary. I enjoyed the video!
Danke schoen
That piece you didn't know the function of is one of the clips that holds the shoes to the back plate. They probably broke pulling off the drums. I recommend heating up the drums some for the front ones. They'll come off easier.
I had to heat the drum on my Studebaker and use a long breaker bar on the puller to get it to pop free, glad you stuck with it.
1.You should always leave the hub nut on in case of it- the drum flying off!
If it's any conslilation the Austin allegro (all agro - brit speak for trouble..) had a front hub nut that was factory torqued to 270 lbs....
the lug studs and the center bearing are the same part. The puller needed to grab the outer edge of the drum. Didn't need the puller.
make sure emerg/brake is released, use a piece of long heavy pipe to tighten puller, and heat drum w/ torch...
Patiently TAP, do not pound on the center shaft of the puller until the drum comes loose. That is the way they were mean't to be used.
Proto makes Tough tools. I have some that are over 50 years and they keep going. I buy more after time and now again.
Heat the outside of the shell - it expands. Rods shrink and shells /nuts expand. Use nut release stuff and or heat it. Holes in the back to cool with ?
Take center nut out put the tire back on with lug nuts then get a 16 pound sledge and hit it on the back of tire and it will fly off! Have done it many times .
On the backside below the axle should be a port to get inside to be able to collapse the break shoes to be able to get the drum off.
well past that now, but. they had sat in the mud 30 years, no port would collapse anything on this truck
In the future, instead using brute force to pry the drums off. Next time cut them off with a torch. In this case you may not have damaged the drums. Depending if they still have enough meat on them to have them turned? Good luch
Heat is your friend when you're wrenching on old rusty buckets.
glad you like the hasp and that it will finally be put to use.
it's going to be hung this weekend, thank you
With both drums off, and assuming an "open" style rear differential (as opposed to a "posi" or locking diff), if you turn one drum, the motion will follow the path of least resistance, which is to turn the other drum in the opposite direction. Hold one drum from turning while you turn the other, and the driveshaft should then turn, or, turn the driveshaft and either or both the drums will turn, but in opposite directions if they both turn. Nice old truck!
You're a better man than I. I wouldn't even touch this project without an air compressor, air tools, a acetylene torch, and the rest of my tool collection.
I think you have the 6-230 hurricane engine, that trucks so cool!! I would have a long term project for sure .. but well worth it in the end! What a great find!
heat on the thing, when it comes it will just come all at once. don't loose those little pieces inside the drum, they hold the brakes in place and adjust them
Hi from over the Pond. You just asked what one of the parts was that fell out when you removed the Hub. it is a Break retaining spring ,it holds the break shoe in place , there should have been a straight pin as well that the spring sits around this also is a part that holds the break shoe to the back plate, there are one of each for each shoe , i hope that is helpful
thanks, I'm going to write that down, seriously, thanks
A lot of WD-40 or PB Blaster would help in getting that set of drums off all the way around. You might have to take the backing plates off to get the wheel assembly off. You should have applied the lubricant for several days before attempting this, as the rust took many years to build up.
the lug nuts you are bolted to actually go to the axel, the drum just sits on the lug bolts and is frozen on there. Sometimes there are threaded holes on the drum you can screw into and then use a puller like you have, if you want to pull the whole axel and drum you have to release the axel from the differential 1st
guess I should have watched the whole video
Boy I miss my 61 Willy’s truck ,,,, should have never sold it. I had 68 thunderbird seats in it and a 327 Chevy block and 38 in tires under it . Love the front grills man,,, happy for ya bro
There are two ways to successfully achieve a goal....Cunning or violence and that drum removal definitely comes under the violence category.
The easy way to pull those hubs is with a healthy impact wrench. We very seldom need heat.
I've been through that brake drum situation before with a 56 F100. I was watching the video saying "just hit it". I had to step back and really whack them hard with the sledge. Around the perimeter like you were doing, but much harder. Until the rust and brake shoe pieces started to crumble out the bottom. Then it came apart. Nice truck. Would love to find one in that condition.
Just now seeing this. Love the running commentary ....
Drum is rusted to the axle hub. Get a torch and use it on that area. It'll pop free in about 5 minutes.
Had you tightened the center bolt, removed the hammer wrench than took the beater and hit the end of the center bolt it would dislodge the drum. Repeat as necessary until it is removed.
The best penetrating oil I have used in a mixture of equal parts of acetone and ATF. Your probably going to need it!
The next time you have a stuck drum brake try backing off the adjuster and on the back that the emergency isn't stuck.
I'd strip the front and rear axles out and install newer ones. I would also look at new engine, trans and steering gear.
Just noticed the old 200 Honda in the background. Had quite a few of em! Great wheelers.
Great video- Great Willys- And even greater sense of humor. Blowtorch!
Swat the end of the puller screw a couple of good licks with your hammer! I used to be heavily into Studebakers in the sixties, and they used the same setup. What you're doing when you hit the end of the black screw, it taking up the slack in the threads. I still have the old forged steel puller. I think it cost me less that 10 bucks in 1960...
Should put a tube over bar as an extension 😋👍🏼
hit the end of the puller it is a tapered axle shaft on all jeeps and American motors worked on many
The brake shoes are probably frozen to the drums. You might try finding the adjuster and back it out.
Don't you gotta get it running before you think about stopping it 😏
Yep👍 It'll run again😁.
Looking forward to see the plants moving forward🌱🌱
Those things used those sucky cam type brake adjusters, two per wheel. All they did was hold the shoe and the wheel cylinder farther out
PB Blaster is a good friend to have!
acetylene torch would make your job wayyyy easier, but a small one from the hardware store and a cup of cold water can free anything
Hey I'm 10 years old me and my dad build hot rods we build a 1973 Ford Mustang GT and we worked on a 1987 C10 and a 1990 S10 Blazer when the wheel is I think it's pretty cool because well you know you don't see him everyday
I do like that truck. It's got so much character.
Very tapping the hub around towards the vechicle
You have a open differential. If one wheel is off the ground, all the power will be sent to that wheel. Always goes to wheel with least traction. That's why your drum isn't turning.
If at all possible before using that hub puller, you should take a brake tung and back off the brakes as much as possible. Impacts should be on the puller center bolt instead of cross ways on the drum.
Did you back off the adjusters? Best to always put some heat to it as well. You would be amazed what a small plumbing torch can do in a pinch!
Great progress on the Willies and loved seeing the beginnings of your garden!
@13:54 "Look Ma, Someone done sent us a WINDCHIME!!" 😂🤠🤣
(&hangs it on his porch with other random metal pieces...)
go get a jeep cherokee two wheel drive rear axle, they look just like that with bigger brakes. you'll have to cut off the mounting points and weld on some 3in spring saddles not difficult. I just did it!
7;52. I would hit the augers hex And it will pop the taper loose, like a Morris taper bit .
Nice to get to know the family a bit......great video as always.....
The drums would have came off without all that work if you would have released the hand brake. GL with the truck. GL&HH
wish that was the problem, it wasn't on
I just took the drums off of my 59 Willys station wagon last night, it gave me that much trouble without sticky brakes.
I look forward to seeing this truck get up and running.
Thanks for the info. I didnt know that.
I went back and took a look. I see that. Thanks.
naw man. That drum is seized like nothing you've worked on, I work on late modle shit that you need bruit force to remove.
That puller would work better if you used it correctly. You tighten it up then hit the end of the bolt (big one in center. Then tighten it more. Hit the bolt again. Keep repeating. Loosening the brake adjuster would help also.
IKR? what you fail to understand is if I loosen the side (all the rusted underneath) it won't be as difficult to come off straight
Seeing the broken down 3wheeler in the back...yea I doubt it’ll ever run again hahahha
Did you try the turn key on the back side of the wheel hub? This turn key loosens the brake shoe from the hub so you can slide the hub off the break shoe.
By the way instead of tapping that t-bar with your hammer try a three-quarter inch drive breaker bar or if you have a 1-in much better take that t-bar off and put a socket on the end of that and squeeze it down until it stops and then take that hammer and don't tap it hit it like a man and I bet you that puppy pops right out and if that don't work put a little heat on it so to let you know I'm 75 years old and my dad was a journeyman Marine machinist and we used to have to take them darn things off because we only own Jeeps in our family and axles and rear ends were normal to break apart so wish you luck my friend
Heat that baby up with a torch, the drum, not the shaft, you might have to heat it till almost cherry red
You don't need no dam brakes,brakes are overrated..lol..im amazed how the chrome is in such good shape.
Read up on differentials, they do not act like a solid axel. Only 1 wheel is driven at a time, if it slips then the other wheel gets power.
Glad ya liked the cigar boxes :) Happy to see they made it in 1 piece.
oh yeah they were awesome
That hub came off pretty easy considering how long it's been sitting in the dirt with no wheels. Do yourself a favor and find a disc brake conversion.
Bits of metal are the brake shoe retainer
On the back side of the hub there is a place to loosen the brake
Dont any of you guys realize that he knows what hes doing? Theres a reason that hes doing what hes doing. Becuase its the only way to do what he needs to do.
thank for the boost!
Exploring Alabama no problem! I dont know why, but Ive always wanted to buy and restore an old car or truck especially an old jeep, whether its a truck or just an old Army Jeep. I love watching videos like this for inspiration.
Impact wrench comes to mind.
It is an open ended axel. That is why only one wheel spins the axle.
That is the exact same tool that I used to get my hubs off!!! It’s the only tool that would work for mine!!!
SWEET HOME ALABAMA
Channel Lock 447G is the best cotter pin puller. Long nose side cutter
All you need is some butter ,because it's toast .Alabama is a beautiful state ,though .Nice family
hit the end of the shaft whilst there is outwards pressure on it
Getting there, canny wait to see it running.
I'm not an expert but yes I think a break rebuild would be a good idea. However you know a wire brush and a lick of paint just shove it all back in and save a few dollars.
Was the break adjust frozen? That's where the penetration spray would do some good. Access the adjustment wheel from the back with a brake tool and turn until the drum turns freely.
Them pullers when you get presser on them you are supposed to hit the centre with a hammer that shockes it of had the same pullers in the 1960 ts
You will need a couple cans of Aerokroil for that project. It's like magic in a can.
Nice collection