Hello Lou, as usual you impress us with your work, and wonderful craftmanship, i'm really hoping to see your rendition of this beautiful submarine (to me this is the most beautiful version of the Nautilus), as for the lightning i have an idea, why not put inside a rechargeable battery, like the ones used to charge mobiles, and in the lower hatch you can put the conector to recharge the battery, so that way it can have power on it's own and when drained you can connect it again, and in one of the upper hatches i would put the on/off switch... hahaha as i say, just my two cents :) Waiting eagerly for the next video !!! Greetings from Yucatan, Mexico :D
Wow, the Nautilus!! This is gonna be a great build to watch. I was thinking about the Nautilus recently when Kirk Douglas passed away. I loved the movie basically because of that ship. I'm already looking forward to your painting and weathering for this one. Congrats on 5k!!!
There are white metal parts for ships at Modelexpoonline.com. They are called Bollards. They are available in different sizes. Looking good. Love the weathering effect that the primer has on it right now. Too bad you are going to paint over it. LOL See ya next week.
Like you said staples,for the hand holds instead of the bent wire. Also what about attaching the stairwell with the lights to the body, and the outer hull is removable so that the wires aren't messed with. I believe the ship cleats and such are also sold at most model boat shops, the fine details this larger Nautilus provides will make a fine addition to your collection. Now the problem is that your going to need a bigger showroom soon. But that's for a later date. Thank you, Loved the video as always! Till next week. John S:-)
7:01/57:40 : When It Comes To Lighting And Where He's Shelving It, He COULD Have The Option Of A Switch In The Circuitry That Would Allow Him To Switch On One Side, -Or The Other, -Or Both, -Or Neither Side ESPECIALLY If He Wants To Flip The Sub's Direction!
Lou, cant wait to see this finished. Might pick it up myself. Your work always inspires. Just a note, don't know if you're going for screen accuracy and it might have been mentioned already, but I don't believe the large eyes were ever green.
do you mean the wheelhouse big portholes? They were green during "attack mode" although they never did a good job of matching the set lighting to the model. if you mean the "crocodile eyes" you are correct they were regular warm white unless you look at the full size props built for the amusement parks - those were green, but not accurate
Lou, Congrats' on passing 5K subs ! Kind of ironic, building a sub and passing 5K subs. A thought on turning the prop, either line the shaft, or replace the plastic/resin shaft with metal tubing,then run the shaft tube through a slightly larger housing tube attached to the hull body. Love the model from one of my favorite movies when I was a kid. I know you will do a great job on it, as you always do. take care.
Hey, Lou, congrats on the 5K well-deserved subs! Yours are my go to videos whenever I need to figure something out. Thanks! Another fix for the large clear ports on either side of the bridge not fitting: what if you took laminated styrene strips and wrapped them around the line that you drew at their base? Then you could use that added beefiness as your glue joint. Just a thought. But whatever you come up with, I’m sure will be enlightened! Anyway, you’re The Man - keep it up!
Congratulations on the 5K subs! Like the idea of a jack to make the bridge deck modular, maybe 3.5mm headphone connector? Can't wait to see what you do with the weathering.
Congratulations on 5k subscribers Lou! Obviously you must light both sides to give you the option of turning the model round or taking it to shows. I was wondering how they got a plastic kit from a resin mould! Obviously it's just another kind of resin. Good luck! 👍
Love that boat-- and whatta model. It's most likely made of 2-part epoxy or just like what Steve makes use of-- that 1610 2-part resin. You might consider doing body work with Evercoat Metal Glaze-- also a 2-part material suited for fiberglass work. It's great stuff once you get acquainted with it. (Tip: invest in popsicle sticks!) Also, Steve used Tulip right out of the bottle for replacing rivets-- you might need a blunt toothpick for this scale. The biggest suggestion I can give is to consider a stereo headphone jack for the power connection. Not necessarily for a hard attachment-- that I think magnets will help do. But it is a good power connection and helps locate the entire bridge. You set in some 2-part plumber's epoxy in the bridge, then put the socket in the hull also in putty and let the plug align the whole thing while still pliable. As of your sign-off, this suggestion doesn't appear all that helpful-- you are traveling in another direction. But I have to try! You also might consider using the Metal Glaze goo to make "perfect" fitting parts. The Merriman way uses bowling alley paste wax as a barrier, then put the stuff on the bottom and mush the waxed part on top. Trim a little as material permits. The fit is ideal. I say stick to Saran Wrap and ApoxySculpt ('stick' -- right? yuk!) you have a lot more fuss time. Looking good, Lou-- as usual. The power problem really needs to have a better solution. Like using one of those USB power sources that can be recharged with another one. Getting the wire or socket outside is the only consideration (uhh... the bottom hatch?). And still working that high off the ground, standing on Kirk's shoulder...
@@aztekdummy You knew the job was dangerous, buddy. There's no need to invoke the entire state of North Carolina to get some electricity up there. Treat it as an art installation. Just 'blue skyin'' it here, but if you get some long, stylish, artistic even, tubes and you put one on the left side of the shelf, the other on the right, you can run some insulated 14 gauge wire up either one. A little fuss with some wire staples on the floor board and a bit of fancy work with an add-on plug. Perhaps a small AC socket in a wall-mount box (they're out there) that you lay on the shelf. Run the wires to that socket and hey, presto-- you've got your AC where you want it. Paint the whole thing white, nobody'd know it was there! Alternately, you could just find some appropriate diameter tube and run a simple extension cord up the wall. I think there's brass tubing in 8' lengths-- maybe... That's always a crowd pleaser. Maybe another material. (Mmm, you could get some 3/4" PVC plumbing pipe and cut it in half-- just a big model then! Easy to paint. I'm not talking about that wall-mounted junk either-- it's about as subtle as a road flare. You'd essentially make this. if you plug it into a power strip you also have circuit breaker protection.
Hey Lou, Congrats on the 5K Well Done! Great Model, the 31” Nautilus, it is looking good, and I like your idea for the battery placement. However, I have a suggestion and I hope you do not take this the wrong way. I was thinking so you do not have to take on and off bridge for the battery. Why not move the battery placement to the back were the dinghy goes, and you could still cover it up with the dinghy part. That way you do not have to worry about the wires braking or light leaks, I just hope it fits.
I'd have been tempted to use red oxide primer, as a base complimentary to the final color. Or have you found that color to be less helpful in revealing imperfections that need fixing? Entertaining and educational as always!
This will be a great project! I'm looking forward to following your build. My favorite movie (from my Third Grade Days)..."A whale of a tale I'll tell you lads...." The design won an Academy Award if i recall correctly. Do you know if anybody has made any photo-etch detail parts that might apply? (Perhaps I'm your 5001st. subscriber!)
That's a model I'm sad I never built, and the way my fingers are going it looks like I can only build it vicariously through you. So far, so good. Did you consider putting the 'gator-eye LEDs on stanchions glued to the deck so the wires wouldn't ever have to be flexed? I've done that on several models back in the day (with grain o' wheat bulbs, but still) and it worked great. Soft rubber gaskets do wonders for light leaks especially now that rare earth magnets are available to hold that wheelhouse down.
Congrats on reaching 5K viewers. If you are going to light it , light the model. You may want to see to other side from time to time. How about using connectors on those eyes to help when you replace the batteries .
You know,quite a few of us moddlers have built dozens if not hundreds of models of ALL PLASTIC,without problems,no cheap pot metal involved,looks to be a goodly craft all said and done
I'm so excited for this build. I have the same kit and love learning some tips from the Master! :-)
Hello Lou, as usual you impress us with your work, and wonderful craftmanship, i'm really hoping to see your rendition of this beautiful submarine (to me this is the most beautiful version of the Nautilus), as for the lightning i have an idea, why not put inside a rechargeable battery, like the ones used to charge mobiles, and in the lower hatch you can put the conector to recharge the battery, so that way it can have power on it's own and when drained you can connect it again, and in one of the upper hatches i would put the on/off switch... hahaha as i say, just my two cents :) Waiting eagerly for the next video !!! Greetings from Yucatan, Mexico :D
Lou,
You mentioned the length of your vids.
I like the long ones. I binge watch your builds and an hour or more is just fine with me.
You gotta light it all Lou!
Congrats on 5K subs.. well deserved, good sir!
Wow, the Nautilus!! This is gonna be a great build to watch. I was thinking about the Nautilus recently when Kirk Douglas passed away. I loved the movie basically because of that ship. I'm already looking forward to your painting and weathering for this one. Congrats on 5k!!!
Great video. Interesting subject as usual. Thanks for the Evans designs hint. I have been trying to work out how to do that. Turns out I can buy it 😁
There are white metal parts for ships at Modelexpoonline.com. They are called Bollards. They are available in different sizes. Looking good. Love the weathering effect that the primer has on it right now. Too bad you are going to paint over it. LOL See ya next week.
I enjoy the longer videos. Congrats on 5k!
Like you said staples,for the hand holds instead of the bent wire. Also what about attaching the stairwell with the lights to the body, and the outer hull is removable so that the wires aren't messed with. I believe the ship cleats and such are also sold at most model boat shops, the fine details this larger Nautilus provides will make a fine addition to your collection. Now the problem is that your going to need a bigger showroom soon. But that's for a later date. Thank you, Loved the video as always! Till next week. John S:-)
Yeah, pick up your cleats, anchors and other details from model boat shops. They'll be in metal at least
7:01/57:40 : When It Comes To Lighting And Where He's Shelving It, He COULD Have The Option Of A Switch In The Circuitry That Would Allow Him To Switch On One Side, -Or The Other, -Or Both, -Or Neither Side ESPECIALLY If He Wants To Flip The Sub's Direction!
Congrats on 5k subs!
This kit is right in your wheelhouse, Lou! I’m so sorry, I couldn’t resist! 😝 congrats on your 5K subs! Well deserved!
I went to the Elvis tribute convention and boy, was it populated with Elvai.
Lou, cant wait to see this finished. Might pick it up myself. Your work always inspires. Just a note, don't know if you're going for screen accuracy and it might have been mentioned already, but I don't believe the large eyes were ever green.
do you mean the wheelhouse big portholes? They were green during "attack mode" although they never did a good job of matching the set lighting to the model. if you mean the "crocodile eyes" you are correct they were regular warm white unless you look at the full size props built for the amusement parks - those were green, but not accurate
I've been looking forward so long for this build.
Great Subject! Excellent Video!
We stopped drinking Corona about 20 Years Ago so we should be Good To Go!
Cheers!
Lou, Congrats' on passing 5K subs ! Kind of ironic, building a sub and passing 5K subs. A thought on turning the prop, either line the shaft, or replace the plastic/resin shaft with metal tubing,then run the shaft tube through a slightly larger housing tube attached to the hull body. Love the model from one of my favorite movies when I was a kid. I know you will do a great job on it, as you always do. take care.
Hey, Lou, congrats on the 5K well-deserved subs! Yours are my go to videos whenever I need to figure something out. Thanks!
Another fix for the large clear ports on either side of the bridge not fitting: what if you took laminated styrene strips and wrapped them around the line that you drew at their base? Then you could use that added beefiness as your glue joint. Just a thought. But whatever you come up with, I’m sure will be enlightened! Anyway, you’re The Man - keep it up!
I like that. Worth a try and would flatten out that joint at the same time. Excellent
Congratulations on the 5K subs! Like the idea of a jack to make the bridge deck modular, maybe 3.5mm headphone connector? Can't wait to see what you do with the weathering.
Congrats on 5k subs.... :)
That does indeed look like the stuff Steve Neill uses, which is 1630 polyurethane.
That's my Very Favorite Version of the Nautilus.
Congratulations on 5k subscribers Lou! Obviously you must light both sides to give you the option of turning the model round or taking it to shows. I was wondering how they got a plastic kit from a resin mould! Obviously it's just another kind of resin. Good luck! 👍
Oh wow I had no idea this existed and now I very much need to build this.
It is true that it works best to select the proper material for the specific use.
It's still resin. Just a nicer color.
Oh, this is gonna be fun... :)
Love that boat-- and whatta model. It's most likely made of 2-part epoxy or just like what Steve makes use of-- that 1610 2-part resin. You might consider doing body work with Evercoat Metal Glaze-- also a 2-part material suited for fiberglass work. It's great stuff once you get acquainted with it. (Tip: invest in popsicle sticks!) Also, Steve used Tulip right out of the bottle for replacing rivets-- you might need a blunt toothpick for this scale.
The biggest suggestion I can give is to consider a stereo headphone jack for the power connection. Not necessarily for a hard attachment-- that I think magnets will help do. But it is a good power connection and helps locate the entire bridge. You set in some 2-part plumber's epoxy in the bridge, then put the socket in the hull also in putty and let the plug align the whole thing while still pliable. As of your sign-off, this suggestion doesn't appear all that helpful-- you are traveling in another direction. But I have to try!
You also might consider using the Metal Glaze goo to make "perfect" fitting parts. The Merriman way uses bowling alley paste wax as a barrier, then put the stuff on the bottom and mush the waxed part on top. Trim a little as material permits. The fit is ideal. I say stick to Saran Wrap and ApoxySculpt ('stick' -- right? yuk!) you have a lot more fuss time.
Looking good, Lou-- as usual. The power problem really needs to have a better solution. Like using one of those USB power sources that can be recharged with another one. Getting the wire or socket outside is the only consideration (uhh... the bottom hatch?). And still working that high off the ground, standing on Kirk's shoulder...
well, I'd like to be able to run AC power to it, but getting power up to that shelf would be a nightmare
@@aztekdummy You knew the job was dangerous, buddy. There's no need to invoke the entire state of North Carolina to get some electricity up there. Treat it as an art installation. Just 'blue skyin'' it here, but if you get some long, stylish, artistic even, tubes and you put one on the left side of the shelf, the other on the right, you can run some insulated 14 gauge wire up either one. A little fuss with some wire staples on the floor board and a bit of fancy work with an add-on plug. Perhaps a small AC socket in a wall-mount box (they're out there) that you lay on the shelf. Run the wires to that socket and hey, presto-- you've got your AC where you want it. Paint the whole thing white, nobody'd know it was there!
Alternately, you could just find some appropriate diameter tube and run a simple extension cord up the wall. I think there's brass tubing in 8' lengths-- maybe... That's always a crowd pleaser. Maybe another material. (Mmm, you could get some 3/4" PVC plumbing pipe and cut it in half-- just a big model then! Easy to paint.
I'm not talking about that wall-mounted junk either-- it's about as subtle as a road flare. You'd essentially make this. if you plug it into a power strip you also have circuit breaker protection.
Light the entire kit and place a mirror behind it. 😀
John Takacs I agree, with your suggestion.I had the same idea and reading the other comments I was going make the same comment.
For The Memory of Kirk Douglas...
Build that Model Right Lou Please Build it Right.
Hey Lou, Congrats on the 5K Well Done! Great Model, the 31” Nautilus, it is looking good, and I like your idea for the battery placement. However, I have a suggestion and I hope you do not take this the wrong way. I was thinking so you do not have to take on and off bridge for the battery. Why not move the battery placement to the back were the dinghy goes, and you could still cover it up with the dinghy part. That way you do not have to worry about the wires braking or light leaks, I just hope it fits.
Nope the dingy is smaller than a 9v battery which would mean cutting into the hull.not going to cut thru those rivets
I'd have been tempted to use red oxide primer, as a base complimentary to the final color. Or have you found that color to be less helpful in revealing imperfections that need fixing?
Entertaining and educational as always!
years of gray models have just conditioned me, I suppose
This will be a great project! I'm looking forward to following your build. My favorite movie (from my Third Grade Days)..."A whale of a tale I'll tell you lads...." The design won an Academy Award if i recall correctly. Do you know if anybody has made any photo-etch detail parts that might apply? (Perhaps I'm your 5001st. subscriber!)
Now this is a fantastic model. I’d love to see a really nice model with lots of oxidising and some rust and the like on it.
Watch RC GUYS youtubes.
That's a model I'm sad I never built, and the way my fingers are going it looks like I can only build it vicariously through you.
So far, so good.
Did you consider putting the 'gator-eye LEDs on stanchions glued to the deck so the wires wouldn't ever have to be flexed? I've done that on several models back in the day (with grain o' wheat bulbs, but still) and it worked great. Soft rubber gaskets do wonders for light leaks especially now that rare earth magnets are available to hold that wheelhouse down.
Congrats on reaching 5K viewers.
If you are going to light it , light the model. You may want to see to other side from time to time.
How about using connectors on those eyes to help when you replace the batteries .
Just subbed!Great channel.
Put batteries in the rear boat.
Symmetry, sir! Symmetry ✌
You know,quite a few of us moddlers have built dozens if not hundreds of models of ALL PLASTIC,without problems,no cheap pot metal involved,looks to be a goodly craft all said and done
I feel properly chastised. you have to admit, tho, that when dealing with delicate hinges, metal ones are better than plastic ones
Lou, you need the Walmart Robby the Robot to go with your cool poster. He’s only 19.87.
Got one. And the iron giant
Horace Hunley would be proud.
Lou I gave you the Vulcan shuttle last year I have more models to mail you I'm not sure if I will go to wonderment this year
Harry! geeze, I hope you can make it to KY
amber in the bridge, and the alligator eyes are green
only on the full scale park attractions
Big fan of the channel! Where are ya based out of?
it's right there over the title
Will this be a competition model?
Is that kit still available
masterpiecemodels.com/product/20k-submarine/
looks like it
Lou, I'm curious...with whatever material this is, did you have to deal with pinholes?
No pin holes. It is very well cast. That was what confused me, I was expecting the same problems as resin. The worst problem with this was the flash
I meant wonderfeast
Lou
When will the Enterprise C paint masks be available?
I sent the first order to Steve last Monday, so pretty soon, I'd guess
Lou, Check out RCSUBGUY on you tube, check out the motor configuration it may give you some ideas, but not as complicated !
Light it up
There is an rc sub builder who builds these. Look him up for some ideas
Hey Lou, is this the Nautilus from League of Extraordinary Gentlemen?
Bite your tongue. The is from 20000 leagues under the sea
Lite one side...why wasye time and money
lou you need to invest in a 3d printer then you can reprint your windows