Occasionally you find a RUclips channel that is obviously a quality source of information and education. This channel has taught me lots of real techniques that others don’t. I’ve subbed. Thanks for making these videos!
You're seeing techniques that have evolved over the 53 years I've been turning. They served me well as I made a living selling thousands of bowls, boxes, plates, scoops and a few spindles.
I have been woodturning for at least 30 years as a self-taught. however, from these videos I have been watching, have learned new techniques and developed my own turning tools. Thank you, Richard for your instruction. Much useful information.
I love in the US, this is the second video of yours I have watched. I appreciate the way you explain everything you are doing. Very informative. Thank you Sir.
We had a huge fire on our farm 3 years ago, hundreds of olive trees and cork oaks were lost but i could not bring myself to burn it as fire wood. I started watching your channel and some others which inspired me to buy a lathe and turn what wood was left into something nice. I did my first lathe video last week on our channel and i know exactly what you mean about concentrating more on explaining than the turning..... Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for teaching me how to start!👍
Loved the video, especially the few catches/grabs you got, im glad they were included as for me a beginner its great to know that it happens to experienced turners, and then the straight back on the horse again, has helped me understand/ grasp turning a bit more. Cheers 🍻 Matt Maryborough Queensland
Loving all of the videos Richard. I always enjoyed seeing you demonstrate live but I think what you are sharing now and the great content may even be better than being with you in person. Thanks so much for everything you are doing to improve the turning community.
Many thanks, Ken. The big advantage here is that I have control of the camera, whereas at symposiums those behind the camera rarely kept up with the action or homed in on what I wanted to show.
so so glad I came across this video as a beginner . after about a dozen ash bowls thought I would do an end grain lidded box. most disheartened to be getting catch after catch which I wasn't getting with the bowls. spent several hours on RUclips and initially thought I would spend my out of it with a carbide hollower. now I see that my technique needs to improve as the end grain is less forgiving. also thank you so much for leaving your catches in (even though yours were due to videoing rather than inexperience). this helps us more than anything ( and saved me 130 quid)
G'day as a beginner I loved it also that he left all aspects in including the catches as it showed me things like that are common and ok as long as your concentrating, yet him talking and explaining helped so much. Have a fantastic turning life, Cheers 🍻
Those were the kind of catches I get with a scraper..they do happen..for me it's usually when I am almost finished with the a project..thank you for another great video lesson..
Good man Richard, another great video. Answered a lot of questions about how i found end grain so hard. Than you very much for your wonderful easy going style.
I'm a beginner. I got a few small catches and scared enough, come back here to get some more info and encouragement. I'm scared more :) however the coolness against a few catches and natural reaction I now know that it happens even after years of experience and knowledge. So I feel better now. Thanks for the video and encouragement:)
Thank you for your content. I have found you and viewed several of your videos today. Very informative and I shall always remember - "Yet another log" - new subscriber.
Hi Richard, I worked at the Black Forest in Calgary about 15 years ago. You would come a couple times a year and I would get to stare through the window, (couldn’t quite afford the workshop, though it would have been worth it). I did get to learn from Terry, the former owner and now I am getting ready to run my first little workshop in Saskatoon, (next province east). You are a great turner and instructor and so I have been catching up on your videos, thank you.
It's always useful to watch a expert do the job in the right way. Thank you Richard. Nevertheless I use end grain in olive wood and in the middle you have the beauty of the grain that pay the extra effort. Of course as Richard explained, I got cracks that I have to fill with glue or epoxi, but the final look is worth it. Kind regards from Argentina.
Lots of great info as ususal, Richard. Using a block of wood as a moveable fence is a great safety tip. Never thought of plastic when chucking green wood to avoid black marks.
Excellent explanation of why this is not the normal way to make a bowl. Thank you for show the one catch and explaining why it happened. I have seen your why catches happen video and remember you not wanting to "live" demonstrate bowl catches because the are far too dangerous.
You are a master with the skew chisel! I have a Taunton video from the eighties where you go into some exercises with it and I watch them over and over to perfect my technique
That maybe, but the fact remains that endgrain bowls much over 75mm/3-in diameter are tougher to turn thanks to hollowig into endgrain, and more prone to splitting and breakage when dropped.
I have 4 of Richard Raffan books and some video tapes, 1 book was up dated.i tried to master his technique, but by book a little hard. I enjoy his videos!
hadn't thought of using plastic to protect the wet wood from the iron jaws - i've often gotten black marks on my green turnings (especially the fruit trees and oak). i would think anything but the thinnest plastics would throw off the jaw registration on the foot. so glad you mentioned the grain direction when doing the outside (larger to smaller diameter) as if one forgets that you often get a split or flying bowl instead. :) it's not often you see bowls turned with a skew (at least not one being used AS a skew and not a scraper). thanks again RR. :)
One thing I do like about endgrain bowls/platters from certain species is that it transfers the ray and curl structures to the walls. Maple bowls with curl visible on the walls look more interesting as fireplace mantle decorations than when the curl is on the inside flat bottom and under the foot.
I really enjoy your videos! Always learn so much from watching your videos and probably the best thing I learn is what not to do. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and love for turning!
Thanks especially for demonstrating the differences between approaching end grain vs face grain. I’ve turned several goblets and scoops in end grain orientation but never a proper bowl.
Recently turned a bowl and turning internally was a nightmare. A beautiful close grained piece of timber, but now I understand why it was so difficult, End grain.
Hi Richard! Thanks for another great video. I came here to say I really didn't enjoy watching you hollow that thing out!😅 I think it's so hard to control when the wood will engage so I'd rather use a bowl gouge with an acute angle to get me down the side all the way to the bottom in one go. Seriously uncomfortable with using the bowl gouges as scrapers with a pull cut in there. But you learn everytime! I've just recently turned two bowls from some gifted cherry (Green). Both with the pit still there, but I turned one end grain and the other long grain. Great explaination on the splitting, because that's exactly what's happening with the end grain one. I know they'll both move and crack since theyre so wet but still. Looks like I'll be going for long grain for my bowls. 😊 Cheers from Sweden, //Adam
There are always problems to overcome. My first bowls were 3-in diameter cross-grain sapele. On such small cross-grain bowls the four lots of endgrain are always difficult to cut cleanly. Learning to turn bowls it's best to start with a blank about 150x75mm / 6x3-in. My books might help www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturningthank you so much! Since I first watched this I have been doing a lot of turning and I learn something with every piece I turn. People like you who share their experience are priceless! I've turned several end grain bowls of mimosa and they turned out beautiful.
Please excuse my ignorance, I’m trying to figure out why the chuck diameter was marked the way that it was. Making the first mark with the left side and then splitting the difference. I’ve just developed a serious interest in wood turning and I’m trying to learn.
Using dividers set to a desired diameter is a quick way of marking that diameter. Some people halve the diameter and then measure from centre, but that tends to be inacurate. To avoid catches when using dividers you must keep the right point clear of the wood, and the left point horizontal or pitched slightly down. With practice the mark made with the left point will line up with the right point with centre on a line between the two points within a second. This never happens instantly as the left point always needs adjusting, so I was showing what to do when the first mark doesn't align with the right point. You can use much the same technique using a short stick or ruler. My books show a number of ways to lay out measurements. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
I've got to admit that my stomach was in my throat watching you present the scraper with the handle down! I can only imagine the catches and dislodgings you would get with side grain work! I enjoyed watching this, but I think the cons of end grain bowls will steer me to side grain.
Handle down is fine on an internal curve when when hollowing endgrain because the angle between the top of the tool and the wood is less than 90 degrees. Inside facework you can drop the handle slightly to shear scrape inside a bowl rim - which is a lot safer near a rim than scraping with the tool flat on the rest. When shear scraping only a small portion of the edge is in contact with the wood, whereas when a scraper is flat on the rest the wood can grab a whole lot more.
Very interesting. End grain bowls are de rigueur in traditional Japanese wood turning and judging by the many videos I’ve watched on the subject they don’t appear to experience anywhere near the difficulty Richard suffered. I suspect this is down to the difference in tools and technique. It seems end grain bowls are best left to the experts ~ the Japanese! I simply can’t get the blanks required or I would be tempted to make my own tools and give it a try.
I made this video in response to all the endgrain bowls I see online turned by people who clearly don't understand timber or grain alignment, unlike Japanese bowl turners who at one with their material. As I said in the video, my difficulties arose from trying to keep clear of the camera and conequently not being able to see the tool cutting. In production I'd have an endgrain bowl that size done in a few minutes, turning the inside first as I used to with large scoops. I think Japanese turners tend to use hook tools which work best with the timber they have readily available. Likewise with the Scandanavians.
Very good video. Always learning from you. Question: do you only oil your bows once? Also can you use most woods in making thin bowls and microwave them?
Most of my work is free of fissures and finished on the lathe with oil and beeswax. However for many years I was selling mostly jarrah and redgum burl that invariably had fissures and those bowls got oil only because wax gets trapped in the fissures. That looks terrible, and it's very difficult to remove. Anything with fissures typically gets one application of oil on the lathe so I spin the oil out of the fissures after it'd soaked into the wood for a minute or so.
It's always worth testing small bowls or strips of wood in the microwave before committing a larger piece. There's no hard and fast rule as to what will or won't split or distort.
Hi, Senior Citizen here; turning for only 1-1/2 years now. Love you channel and have learned much. One minor comment.....with my laptop at full volume and your video at full volume, your voice is so low, I have to lean over my laptop to hear. All other you-tube videos that I watch have normal high volume Audio through my speakers (meaning I usually have to lower the volume to listen. I apologize if this is not a problem with your video and it somehow, is my computer problem.
The volume problem might be a bit of each. I'm aware that I don't always speak as clearly or as loudly as I could/should. I have also purchased a more expensive mic so hope this will rectify the situation if I pay more attention to my diction and volume.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you sir for your prompt reply. Please know that I did not mean to infer or imply that you don't speak clearly or that your diction was not correct; On the contrary.......your clarity and diction are both PERFECT. My only concern was Sound Level. That said, as I am currently watching THIS VIDEO a few minutes ago, I decided to play it on my smart TV and just discovered two things (hopefully this might assist other readers) 1. By connecting my laptop to the tv (via my HDMI cable), the video is displayed on the TV, however the sound is still coming from my laptop.....and it's volume is the same low level. 2. While now watching it I noticed an "icon on the bottom of the video at extreme right end" and clicking on it, it states PLAY ON TV....when I clicked on that, it then gave me the choice to select my Firestick and it automatically began to display your video on the TV with NORMAL TV VOLUME LEVEL AND CONTROL (ie. perfect). Also I could still stop or fast forward the video from my laptop. So all is well Item 2 is a good workaround (as long as my wife isn't watching TV....ha) Looking forward to continue viewing your videos....and at 79 years old....as they say, you're never too old to learn.....and I appreciate you sharing your expertise.
Greetings, I just came across your channel. I love it. I am subscribed to a bunch of wood turners. Somebody just gave me a lathe so am going to try my hand at turning. I have just subscribed to give you my supoort.
That may be, but bowl gouges are generally used for facework and crossgrain. This bowl is endgrain and I'd normally turn the outside using a skew chisel - but not here because this video is for novices who would find a gouge easier. The key message is that there are several reasons NOT to turn bowls from endgrain. Had I used a bowl gouge I'm sure there would have been comments about my using the wrong tool for this grain alignment.
Hi Richard, how does your bandsaw handle wet wood? I find my blade gums up in minutes and becomes very messy to deal with and cause issues. Any tips on managing that and keeping the blade and table clean etc?
The blades don't cope well with bark and sapwood which tend to gum up the inside of the blade and clog the teeth. It's not so bad with most hardwood heartwood I"m using. I'd cleaned this blade using a knife to chisel the muck off the inside, and I hold the corner of a squared stick against the teeth as I hand wind the saw backwards. That knocks most of the muck out. I brush the table clean and wipe it, occasionally with WD40.
slightly confused noob here - I understand regarding the grain orientation and how it's much tougher. However, aren't most boxes normally turned in this orientation? What's the difference?
Size makes the difference. Endgrain boxes are generally less than 75mm (3-in) so thin endgrain in the base is less vulnerable. An endgrain bowl incorporating the pith is almost guaranteed to split, on top of which thin endgrain bowls are nothing like as strong as cross-grained and the grain patterns are less interesting.
Hello Richard, nice demo and tutorial. What kind of wood is that please? And do you turn wet wood or dry wood? And what actually happened there??? I don´t understand then! Sorry, I don't understand spoken English, only written text (using a translator).
This is pear growing last week, so very wet. The video advises not to make bowls using endgrain especially incorporating the pith because that usually splits. So I cut through the pith and made the bowl from wood free of defects. The first catch occurred because I wasn't holding the end of the handle. The second catch because too much of the edge was in contact with the wood. I hope translator manages the jargon. I have a book in German if that's a help. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Good morning from Europe, thank you very much for your reply, it made me happy. I will buy your book in English because it is easier for me to translate it. I understand the jargon, I've heard it before.
Bowl gouge for what? Not hollowing! This is endgrain and the overall message of this video is that I don't recommend endgrain for bowls over 3" diameter..
He, that is me, is using mostly Sheffield tools: Henry Taylor, Hamlet, and Sorby gouges, scrapers and skew chisels, plus two American D-way gouges and and one Thompson. All High Speed Steel, mostly M2 and cryogenic.
I have coloured bowls. In 1981 I had a solo exhibition in London wittily entitled Holly Wood in Covent Garden. It was entirely holly stained bright pinks, blues and greens ans sold out. On other workmore recently I've used verdigris and rust as you'll see on my website www.richardraffan.com.au.
Hi Richard Thanks for another instructive and entertaining video ,we are of similar age,not sure if the heart jumping when you have a catch is a good thing or not it certainly gets the juices flowing faster. It’s really just another change of underwear! Regards
" Come back out" : that's new , but risky , and hollowing with a scraper no bad idea as long as the sharpening is appropriate : we can see it in another video , it works well in fact , better than relying on the burr alone ..
This is an endgrain bowl and a scraper is far safer, easier to use, and more accurate than any bowl gouge. I've hollowed engrain using scrapers for decades, and as a professional turner have a vague idea of what I'm talking about.
Выбирать внутреннюю часть тарелки таким резцом сложно, всегда будут захваты резца, так как площадь резца большая.. Посмотрите резец расточной Брюкнера, гораздо удобнее вашего расточного резца
Я не могу найти расточный станок Брюкнера. Однако расточные инструменты никогда не обеспечивают гибкости ручного инструмента на внутренних кривых, если внутренняя часть шире входного отверстия. YA ne mogu nayti rastochnyy stanok Bryuknera. Odnako rastochnyye instrumenty nikogda ne obespechivayut gibkosti ruchnogo instrumenta na vnutrennikh krivykh, yesli vnutrennyaya chast' shire vkhodnogo otverstiya.
Mantap pak 🙏,👍👍👍👍berbagi ilmu yg cocok buat saya ,saya simak ful lengkap tanpa skip , moga sukses dan saya ingin di kunjungi balik , ,makasih 🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️moga sehat2selalu ,ya 🙏🙏🙏
My comment is about safety. I just came home from hospital. I was turning a bowl. There was a crack I didn't see on the inside. I hit that crack and the piece split in half at 1000 rpm it went through my face shield broke my nose and came 1/4 inch from putting my eye out. Spent 1 night in hospital, will have co pays and my wife wants to burn down my workshop. Anyway not sure how to warn newbies about the importance of safety. Without my face shield I don't want to think what could have happened. Gonna be black and blue for awhile.
That sounds like you were lucky to escape permenant damage. Centrifugal force can cause split blanks to fly apart which is why I encourage people to use defect free blanks. Spllits are never artistic but always potentially dangerous. Most faceshields keep shavings off your face do little to resist the serious impact of a blank flying off the lathe at speed. Absolutely basic rules when turning are: Never stand in line with the blank as you switch on the lathe - Always start a project at low speed - Always wear eye protection
Some of the crazy things I see people turning on RUclips videos is insane. I had no idea there was a Crack inside and I have found no good way to get light inside. I enjoy your videos.
Occasionally you find a RUclips channel that is obviously a quality source of information and education. This channel has taught me lots of real techniques that others don’t. I’ve subbed. Thanks for making these videos!
You're seeing techniques that have evolved over the 53 years I've been turning. They served me well as I made a living selling thousands of bowls, boxes, plates, scoops and a few spindles.
Brilliant. Thankyou for not editing out the catches......actually found seeing these encouraging and good learning opportunity.
Q: What do you call a woodturning video with no catches?
A: Edited.
I have been woodturning for at least 30 years as a self-taught. however, from these videos I have been watching, have learned new techniques and developed my own turning tools. Thank you, Richard for your instruction. Much useful information.
I love in the US, this is the second video of yours I have watched.
I appreciate the way you explain everything you are doing. Very informative. Thank you Sir.
We had a huge fire on our farm 3 years ago, hundreds of olive trees and cork oaks were lost but i could not bring myself to burn it as fire wood.
I started watching your channel and some others which inspired me to buy a lathe and turn what wood was left into something nice.
I did my first lathe video last week on our channel and i know exactly what you mean about concentrating more on explaining than the turning..... Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for teaching me how to start!👍
I'm not sure how I missed this one previously Richard, but it's very informative and enjoyable to watch. Thank you.
I simply loved the process and technique you adopted.
Loved the video, especially the few catches/grabs you got, im glad they were included as for me a beginner its great to know that it happens to experienced turners, and then the straight back on the horse again, has helped me understand/ grasp turning a bit more.
Cheers 🍻
Matt
Maryborough
Queensland
So informative as a beginner. I see all the mistakes I make and how you just flow right through the work piece. Thank you!
Loving all of the videos Richard.
I always enjoyed seeing you demonstrate live but I think what you are sharing now and the great content may even be better than being with you in person.
Thanks so much for everything you are doing to improve the turning community.
Many thanks, Ken. The big advantage here is that I have control of the camera, whereas at symposiums those behind the camera rarely kept up with the action or homed in on what I wanted to show.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning yes that is often a problem, even at turnfest
Thanks for the demo and discussions on end grain bowls and turning
Take care
Cheers
Harold
so so glad I came across this video as a beginner . after about a dozen ash bowls thought I would do an end grain lidded box. most disheartened to be getting catch after catch which I wasn't getting with the bowls. spent several hours on RUclips and initially thought I would spend my out of it with a carbide hollower. now I see that my technique needs to improve as the end grain is less forgiving. also thank you so much for leaving your catches in (even though yours were due to videoing rather than inexperience). this helps us more than anything ( and saved me 130 quid)
G'day as a beginner I loved it also that he left all aspects in including the catches as it showed me things like that are common and ok as long as your concentrating, yet him talking and explaining helped so much.
Have a fantastic turning life,
Cheers 🍻
Those were the kind of catches I get with a scraper..they do happen..for me it's usually when I am almost finished with the a project..thank you for another great video lesson..
The wood has a nasty habit of grabbing our attention just when we think we're on top of things and lose concentration.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning exactly
Thank you for another Raffan session. You always manage to teach large principles even on small projects.
Thank you Richard, it was a pleasure to watch and I learned a fair bit from you.
Good man Richard, another great video. Answered a lot of questions about how i found end grain so hard.
Than you very much for your wonderful easy going style.
I'm a beginner. I got a few small catches and scared enough, come back here to get some more info and encouragement. I'm scared more :) however the coolness against a few catches and natural reaction I now know that it happens even after years of experience and knowledge. So I feel better now. Thanks for the video and encouragement:)
Thank you for your content. I have found you and viewed several of your videos today. Very informative and I shall always remember - "Yet another log" - new subscriber.
I recently heard the center bump referred to as the pimple and dimple problem area. Great explanation of how to do end grain or “cookie” blanks.
As always absolute joy watching you work feel much better about soldiering on when I get catches myself.
Hi Richard, I worked at the Black Forest in Calgary about 15 years ago. You would come a couple times a year and I would get to stare through the window, (couldn’t quite afford the workshop, though it would have been worth it). I did get to learn from Terry, the former owner and now I am getting ready to run my first little workshop in Saskatoon, (next province east). You are a great turner and instructor and so I have been catching up on your videos, thank you.
It's always useful to watch a expert do the job in the right way. Thank you Richard.
Nevertheless I use end grain in olive wood and in the middle you have the beauty of the grain that pay the extra effort. Of course as Richard explained, I got cracks that I have to fill with glue or epoxi, but the final look is worth it. Kind regards from Argentina.
Lots of great info as ususal, Richard. Using a block of wood as a moveable fence is a great safety tip. Never thought of plastic when chucking green wood to avoid black marks.
Thanks, Mike. I like to think I'm getting the hang of this new video-making hobby of mine, but I still have your notes to hand.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Glad you found a new retirement hobby that benefits all of us. Like turning, the more you do the better you get.
Excellent explanation of why this is not the normal way to make a bowl. Thank you for show the one catch and explaining why it happened. I have seen your why catches happen video and remember you not wanting to "live" demonstrate bowl catches because the are far too dangerous.
You are a master with the skew chisel! I have a Taunton video from the eighties where you go into some exercises with it and I watch them over and over to perfect my technique
Great video. I learned a lot and great to see you left the catches in
I am always learning something from your videos the use of plastic on the jaws what a great idea thank you very much
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Thank you for the detailed information, so useful for a new turner like me
I have turned many end grain bowls and find them to be a fun project and quite useful
That maybe, but the fact remains that endgrain bowls much over 75mm/3-in diameter are tougher to turn thanks to hollowig into endgrain, and more prone to splitting and breakage when dropped.
I have 4 of Richard Raffan books and some video tapes, 1 book was up dated.i tried to master his technique, but by book a little hard. I enjoy his videos!
Thanks so much, Richard. You taught a lot in this video and I really appreciate it.
Thanks Richard, I've tried a couple of end grain bowls and you are correct, it's hard.
..until you use a hook.
hadn't thought of using plastic to protect the wet wood from the iron jaws - i've often gotten black marks on my green turnings (especially the fruit trees and oak). i would think anything but the thinnest plastics would throw off the jaw registration on the foot. so glad you mentioned the grain direction when doing the outside (larger to smaller diameter) as if one forgets that you often get a split or flying bowl instead. :) it's not often you see bowls turned with a skew (at least not one being used AS a skew and not a scraper). thanks again RR. :)
Excellent training! Thank you! From Latvia.
Excellent tutorial by a master wood turner.
One thing I do like about endgrain bowls/platters from certain species is that it transfers the ray and curl structures to the walls. Maple bowls with curl visible on the walls look more interesting as fireplace mantle decorations than when the curl is on the inside flat bottom and under the foot.
Thank you again Sir Richard, you are a Legend!!!!
I really enjoy your videos! Always learn so much from watching your videos and probably the best thing I learn is what not to do. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and love for turning!
Thank you. I do hope to save people going through many of the problems and frustrations I experienced as a novice back in the early 1970s.
Great demonstration. I can’t imagine how difficult this must be on dry wood.
Thank you, this is an educational video which is just what I need. Very nice indeed sir.
Thanks especially for demonstrating the differences between approaching end grain vs face grain. I’ve turned several goblets and scoops in end grain orientation but never a proper bowl.
As you can see in my bowl and facework videos, cross-grained blanks are used for strength and generally more appealing grain patterns.
Recently turned a bowl and turning internally was a nightmare. A beautiful close grained piece of timber, but now I understand why it was so difficult, End grain.
Hi Richard! Thanks for another great video. I came here to say I really didn't enjoy watching you hollow that thing out!😅 I think it's so hard to control when the wood will engage so I'd rather use a bowl gouge with an acute angle to get me down the side all the way to the bottom in one go. Seriously uncomfortable with using the bowl gouges as scrapers with a pull cut in there. But you learn everytime!
I've just recently turned two bowls from some gifted cherry (Green). Both with the pit still there, but I turned one end grain and the other long grain. Great explaination on the splitting, because that's exactly what's happening with the end grain one. I know they'll both move and crack since theyre so wet but still.
Looks like I'll be going for long grain for my bowls. 😊
Cheers from Sweden,
//Adam
I'm a beginner so leave it to me to tackle the hardest project to start with. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
There are always problems to overcome. My first bowls were 3-in diameter cross-grain sapele. On such small cross-grain bowls the four lots of endgrain are always difficult to cut cleanly. Learning to turn bowls it's best to start with a blank about 150x75mm / 6x3-in. My books might help www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturningthank you so much! Since I first watched this I have been doing a lot of turning and I learn something with every piece I turn. People like you who share their experience are priceless! I've turned several end grain bowls of mimosa and they turned out beautiful.
Please excuse my ignorance, I’m trying to figure out why the chuck diameter was marked the way that it was. Making the first mark with the left side and then splitting the difference. I’ve just developed a serious interest in wood turning and I’m trying to learn.
Using dividers set to a desired diameter is a quick way of marking that diameter. Some people halve the diameter and then measure from centre, but that tends to be inacurate. To avoid catches when using dividers you must keep the right point clear of the wood, and the left point horizontal or pitched slightly down. With practice the mark made with the left point will line up with the right point with centre on a line between the two points within a second. This never happens instantly as the left point always needs adjusting, so I was showing what to do when the first mark doesn't align with the right point. You can use much the same technique using a short stick or ruler. My books show a number of ways to lay out measurements. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
Thank you!!!
@@emtpbubb It's one of those techniques that when you give it a go you wonder what you were wondering about.
Haha, that’s good to know!! I just ordered your “Turning Wood” and “Turning” books. Thank you so much for the reply.
That was very useful, very interesting.
I've got to admit that my stomach was in my throat watching you present the scraper with the handle down! I can only imagine the catches and dislodgings you would get with side grain work! I enjoyed watching this, but I think the cons of end grain bowls will steer me to side grain.
Handle down is fine on an internal curve when when hollowing endgrain because the angle between the top of the tool and the wood is less than 90 degrees. Inside facework you can drop the handle slightly to shear scrape inside a bowl rim - which is a lot safer near a rim than scraping with the tool flat on the rest. When shear scraping only a small portion of the edge is in contact with the wood, whereas when a scraper is flat on the rest the wood can grab a whole lot more.
Very interesting. End grain bowls are de rigueur in traditional Japanese wood turning and judging by the many videos I’ve watched on the subject they don’t appear to experience anywhere near the difficulty Richard suffered. I suspect this is down to the difference in tools and technique. It seems end grain bowls are best left to the experts ~ the Japanese! I simply can’t get the blanks required or I would be tempted to make my own tools and give it a try.
I made this video in response to all the endgrain bowls I see online turned by people who clearly don't understand timber or grain alignment, unlike Japanese bowl turners who at one with their material. As I said in the video, my difficulties arose from trying to keep clear of the camera and conequently not being able to see the tool cutting. In production I'd have an endgrain bowl that size done in a few minutes, turning the inside first as I used to with large scoops. I think Japanese turners tend to use hook tools which work best with the timber they have readily available. Likewise with the Scandanavians.
Very good video. Always learning from you.
Question: do you only oil your bows once? Also can you use most woods in making thin bowls and microwave them?
Most of my work is free of fissures and finished on the lathe with oil and beeswax. However for many years I was selling mostly jarrah and redgum burl that invariably had fissures and those bowls got oil only because wax gets trapped in the fissures. That looks terrible, and it's very difficult to remove. Anything with fissures typically gets one application of oil on the lathe so I spin the oil out of the fissures after it'd soaked into the wood for a minute or so.
It's always worth testing small bowls or strips of wood in the microwave before committing a larger piece. There's no hard and fast rule as to what will or won't split or distort.
Hi,
Senior Citizen here; turning for only 1-1/2 years now. Love you channel and have learned much. One minor comment.....with my laptop at full volume and your video at full volume, your voice is so low, I have to lean over my laptop to hear. All other you-tube videos that I watch have normal high volume Audio through my speakers (meaning I usually have to lower the volume to listen. I apologize if this is not a problem with your video and it somehow, is my computer problem.
The volume problem might be a bit of each. I'm aware that I don't always speak as clearly or as loudly as I could/should. I have also purchased a more expensive mic so hope this will rectify the situation if I pay more attention to my diction and volume.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you sir for your prompt reply. Please know that I did not mean to infer or imply that you don't speak clearly or that your diction was not correct; On the contrary.......your clarity and diction are both PERFECT. My only concern was Sound Level.
That said, as I am currently watching THIS VIDEO a few minutes ago, I decided to play it on my smart TV and just discovered two things (hopefully this might assist other readers)
1. By connecting my laptop to the tv (via my HDMI cable), the video is displayed on the TV, however the sound is still coming from my laptop.....and it's volume is the same low level.
2. While now watching it I noticed an "icon on the bottom of the video at extreme right end" and clicking on it, it states PLAY ON TV....when I clicked on that, it then gave me the choice to select my Firestick and it automatically began to display your video on the TV with NORMAL TV VOLUME LEVEL AND CONTROL (ie. perfect). Also I could still stop or fast forward the video from my laptop. So all is well
Item 2 is a good workaround (as long as my wife isn't watching TV....ha)
Looking forward to continue viewing your videos....and at 79 years old....as they say, you're never too old to learn.....and I appreciate you sharing your expertise.
@@seniorcitizen5431 That's all useful info. I too am 79 and also still learning. That's partly what keep us going.
Greetings, I just came across your channel. I love it. I am subscribed to a bunch of wood turners. Somebody just gave me a lathe so am going to try my hand at turning. I have just subscribed to give you my supoort.
Thank you.You might find my books useful as they discuss tools and techniques in more detail. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning You are very welcome. Thanks for your suport.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I will check it out.
Some use the bowl gouge more, and I concur with them. 😊❤😊
That may be, but bowl gouges are generally used for facework and crossgrain. This bowl is endgrain and I'd normally turn the outside using a skew chisel - but not here because this video is for novices who would find a gouge easier. The key message is that there are several reasons NOT to turn bowls from endgrain. Had I used a bowl gouge I'm sure there would have been comments about my using the wrong tool for this grain alignment.
Excellent training! Thank you!
Hi Richard, how does your bandsaw handle wet wood? I find my blade gums up in minutes and becomes very messy to deal with and cause issues. Any tips on managing that and keeping the blade and table clean etc?
The blades don't cope well with bark and sapwood which tend to gum up the inside of the blade and clog the teeth. It's not so bad with most hardwood heartwood I"m using. I'd cleaned this blade using a knife to chisel the muck off the inside, and I hold the corner of a squared stick against the teeth as I hand wind the saw backwards. That knocks most of the muck out. I brush the table clean and wipe it, occasionally with WD40.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning much appreciated. You’re a well of knowledge!
slightly confused noob here - I understand regarding the grain orientation and how it's much tougher. However, aren't most boxes normally turned in this orientation? What's the difference?
Size makes the difference. Endgrain boxes are generally less than 75mm (3-in) so thin endgrain in the base is less vulnerable. An endgrain bowl incorporating the pith is almost guaranteed to split, on top of which thin endgrain bowls are nothing like as strong as cross-grained and the grain patterns are less interesting.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning ah, thanks Richard! 👍
Hello Richard, nice demo and tutorial. What kind of wood is that please? And do you turn wet wood or dry wood? And what actually happened there??? I don´t understand then! Sorry, I don't understand spoken English, only written text (using a translator).
This is pear growing last week, so very wet. The video advises not to make bowls using endgrain especially incorporating the pith because that usually splits. So I cut through the pith and made the bowl from wood free of defects. The first catch occurred because I wasn't holding the end of the handle. The second catch because too much of the edge was in contact with the wood. I hope translator manages the jargon. I have a book in German if that's a help. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Good morning from Europe, thank you very much for your reply, it made me happy. I will buy your book in English because it is easier for me to translate it. I understand the jargon, I've heard it before.
That bandsaw is legendary!
Ótimo canal parabéns boas dicas,Moji Guaçu S.P.Brasil.
Great job, thanks for sharing!
Yes I’ve noticed a lot of people on youtube do this and usually the comments are full of so called experts and none of them pick up on this
Looks an exciting bit
Great info 👍
Excellent! Thanks.
Why a scraper and not a bowl gouge?
Bowl gouge for what? Not hollowing! This is endgrain and the overall message of this video is that I don't recommend endgrain for bowls over 3" diameter..
thank you... very useful !!!
What "brand" of tools does he use? Or maybe, what type of metal? I use some cheap tools and I'm ready to upgrade.
He, that is me, is using mostly Sheffield tools: Henry Taylor, Hamlet, and Sorby gouges, scrapers and skew chisels, plus two American D-way gouges and and one Thompson. All High Speed Steel, mostly M2 and cryogenic.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning dude, you are a legend. I never thought you'd personally respond! Thank you!
If the master has trouble with it you know you shouldn’t try it. Good job though Mr Richard.
Richard do you ever colour your bowls .
I have coloured bowls. In 1981 I had a solo exhibition in London wittily entitled Holly Wood in Covent Garden. It was entirely holly stained bright pinks, blues and greens ans sold out. On other workmore recently I've used verdigris and rust as you'll see on my website www.richardraffan.com.au.
Hi Richard
Thanks for another instructive and entertaining video ,we are of similar age,not sure if the heart jumping when you have a catch is a good thing or not it certainly gets the juices flowing faster.
It’s really just another change of underwear!
Regards
only 2/3rds through and I'm a nervous wreck 😁
" Come back out" : that's new , but risky , and hollowing with a scraper no bad idea as long as the sharpening is appropriate : we can see it in another video , it works well in fact , better than relying on the burr alone ..
@5:16 Q: "What do you call a bowl you poke a hole through the bottom?"
A: Fun(nel) Surprise!
I see a lot of people make large end grain bowls in a cone shape. I think it must be easier.
Like the way you use the wood to stop the blade
Bowl gouge may have been more safe vs the scraper
This is an endgrain bowl and a scraper is far safer, easier to use, and more accurate than any bowl gouge. I've hollowed engrain using scrapers for decades, and as a professional turner have a vague idea of what I'm talking about.
very good
Thank You!
Great illustration Mr Richard. I just don't understand why anyone wants to go into end grain. Kinda like running straight into a TRUCK. lol
Выбирать внутреннюю часть тарелки таким резцом сложно, всегда будут захваты резца, так как площадь резца большая.. Посмотрите резец расточной Брюкнера, гораздо удобнее вашего расточного резца
Я не могу найти расточный станок Брюкнера. Однако расточные инструменты никогда не обеспечивают гибкости ручного инструмента на внутренних кривых, если внутренняя часть шире входного отверстия.
YA ne mogu nayti rastochnyy stanok Bryuknera. Odnako rastochnyye instrumenty nikogda ne obespechivayut gibkosti ruchnogo instrumenta na vnutrennikh krivykh, yesli vnutrennyaya chast' shire vkhodnogo otverstiya.
I ĺove. 😊 ❤
Mantap pak 🙏,👍👍👍👍berbagi ilmu yg cocok buat saya ,saya simak ful lengkap tanpa skip , moga sukses dan saya ingin di kunjungi balik , ,makasih 🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️moga sehat2selalu ,ya 🙏🙏🙏
Terima kasih banyak
My comment is about safety. I just came home from hospital. I was turning a bowl. There was a crack I didn't see on the inside. I hit that crack and the piece split in half at 1000 rpm it went through my face shield broke my nose and came 1/4 inch from putting my eye out. Spent 1 night in hospital, will have co pays and my wife wants to burn down my workshop. Anyway not sure how to warn newbies about the importance of safety. Without my face shield I don't want to think what could have happened. Gonna be black and blue for awhile.
That sounds like you were lucky to escape permenant damage. Centrifugal force can cause split blanks to fly apart which is why I encourage people to use defect free blanks. Spllits are never artistic but always potentially dangerous. Most faceshields keep shavings off your face do little to resist the serious impact of a blank flying off the lathe at speed. Absolutely basic rules when turning are: Never stand in line with the blank as you switch on the lathe - Always start a project at low speed - Always wear eye protection
Some of the crazy things I see people turning on RUclips videos is insane. I had no idea there was a Crack inside and I have found no good way to get light inside. I enjoy your videos.
Very god
💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Great info. Thank you for sharing...