Agreee, Im doing a remodel and I've never looked before a video on this topic and this was super clear and concise, thumbs down must be from aliens (wtf???)
Love this video. I am an interior design student and now I am learning materials and feel totally lost sometime. But thanks for the clear explanation between those two. Subscribed! Vancouver Canada
Very glad we could help, and good luck with the rest of your studies! Goes to show we can't always assume it's only buyers that are watching our videos.
Yeah. From we have found (and take this like everything - with a grain of salt) they say that they are waterproof. From what we have found, they do absorb water, and most then when away from the source of water will go down. The problem is that if you walk and or move furniture while it’s swollen, you have a very good chance of damaging the board. Just our two cents
Great explanation!!!...Appreciate the info...my question is this....What about cleaning/refinishing over time like a wood floor? Is that possible with vinyl or laminate?..Do you have another video comparing the two with wood flooring? I have wood flooring now and the upkeep it unbearable!!! Any additional info would be greatly appreciated!!
Unfortunately, you can not refinish laminate or vinyl flooring. A solid hardwood floor can be refinished a number of times, and an engineered hardwood floor can be refinished a few times (depending on how thick the veneer is), because of that wood component on top. Laminates are made up of composite materials and vinyl is essentially a type of plastic. Both options have their pros, including a lower cost than hardwood (making replacement/repairs cheaper), but can not be refinished. Hope that helps.
Clear concise information. I wish you could speak to brands as well. Not all brands are the same. I have samples from Pergo and other laminates and I am surprised at how different they are in scratch resistance. The Pergo so far has the best scratch resistance for laminates. It would also be nice to cover price points and the differences and values associated with price as some brands or tiers within a brand come with the backing preinstalled. I am going into sensory overload on flooring and any assistance is helpful. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the kind words! While I would love to discuss specific brands - the technology changes so fast that while it would be accurate now - give it a few months, change in mill - and the info would be completely out of date. For laminates, the very fortunate scale for durability is AC. It's a scale that goes from 1 - 5 (although there are some 6s, it's not recognized by everyone). This scale - the higher, the better it is for scratch resistance. So for scratch resistance of laminate - go for a 4 or 5, and you won't go wrong. For water resistance, that's a different beast. I would ask your store to give you a board or two and take it home. Walk on it, pull chairs across it, splash water and other household chemicals! The floors are meant to be lived on - and anyone who supports what they are selling wouldn't have any problems with it. The proof is in the floor itself. Once you've had a chance to throw things at a few floors, I'm sure that one will rise above! ;)
I see the brand Pergo selling their own called “Outlast+ Waterproof Soft Oak Glazed 10 mm T x 7.48 in. W x 47.24 in. L Laminate Flooring”. They claim that it’s water proof. Would that be a suitable flooring that’s scratch resistant as well as true water proof?
Watched a video of a guy testing traditional hardwood vs vinyl vs laminate and needless to say the vinyl wiped the floor durability wise did everything from dragging a fridge across it dragging a chair across it dropping a knife on it and more and the vinyl basically had no damage from any of it
The choice between the two was made for me by taking samples of laminate and LVP and intentionally trying to scratch them with a key. The LVP scratched with little effort and you have to get fairly aggressive with the laminate to get it to scratch. With that eye opener; I have dogs and the likely hood of them peeing on the floor is always possible, but after the key test, there's no doubt in my mind that my dogs will scratch LVP on the first day of install as they round the corner to run for the backdoor. So laminate it is. But I also have no doubt that within a few years, LVP will be made with the scratch resistance of laminate and I'll be looking back thinking, "I should have waited". lol
You can with most - just make sure that their warranty covers that. We have seen multiple floors get pulled apart if the joints aren’t strong enough to handle the spin cycle!
Thanks for the information! Durability really all depends on the product. People really need to understand the product specification for the wear layer. I just laid a thousand square foot of rigid core one hundred percent waterproof LVP last week, and it already has scratches on it. Now I'm doing more research. I thought just choosing rigid core waterproof LVP would be good enough, but it's not.
Very true. And while durability is defined by ‘ability to withstand wear’ - it certainly doesn’t mean that it won’t wear. Or scratch. Or mark. This is why most products these days (at least in the lvp and woods) seem to be going more and more to the lower glosses, and textures. The less shine you have, the less of this wear that you will see. And if the floor already has marks all over it - again, harder to see whatever damage that you’ve done! ;)
Good question, Joanne. Being a Canadian business, we are less familiar with the ADA guidelines, and wouldn’t want to steer you in the wrong direction. That said, we support and recommend a 5mm LVP to residential customers who need to consider the specific wear and tear of a wheelchair in the home. If it’s for a public/commercial setting, however, you may want to consider a commercial grade PVC flooring, as it would stand up better to the higher traffic volume. Hope that helps.
Depends what you put underneath your vinyl planks if you use like a 5mm recycle rubber underlayment it well reduce the noise but if you just use foam underlayment then you will hear a little more noise it all depends how much you trying to spend to install some type of rubber underlayment for your vinyl planks
Very true - and with many of the click vinyl planking there is already an underlay. If there is - do not use another underlay beneath, as it may then have too much give and the floor can come apart.
Well, depends on what you have now - and the use of the bathroom. First of all - no go on the laminate. Bad idea. Moisture not so great (even with the water resistant laminates - SPC or vinyl is better. Next, if you’re down to the subfloor already - go LVP or sheet vinyl. Better for keeping any moisture on the surface, and not down on the subfloor. If this is a half-bath (without shower or tub) then it’s not as important. SPC - if you already have a floor down in the bathroom, and aren’t wanting to pull it up before you install. Makes sense?
Renovated a house from the 60's with vinyl which had been you guessed it vinyled-over again - needless to say, the original vinyl was in near pristine condition; whoever they are the aliens will find vinyl preserved from early human pre-history!
Looking at LVP for a mother-in-law unit over concrete with in-floor radiant heat. Remodeler friend recommended Coretec with the cork backer (floating floor). Your thoughts on this product or others you might use?
Sorry for the late reply, but it wouldn’t have been much use to you anyway. We don’t carry COREtec flooring, so we can’t comment on their product. In terms of installing LVP on a floor with radiant heat, it shouldn’t be a problem but you’ll want to double check the LVP manufacturer’s specifications and warranty regarding the maximum heat threshold, as they all differ from one another. The 5mm products that we sell show great success with in-floor heat. If you're in Regina, you can come in and see us or check out our website for options: www.grflooring.ca/collections/lvp
So which one out of the three pieces on your table falls under "pure spc max". I didnt catch you mentioning it in this video, but if its none then can you atleast tell me which is closes to the one i meantioned.?
It can work. Some of our commercial customer require us to use Hydroban (a liquid waterproofing membrane). Makes the adhesive take forever to dry, but you’re protected!
Of course! Wear layers are part and parcel of the durability of the floor. 20 mils and more is considered commercially rated, and under is residential. Personally, we have found that anything with a 12mil or greater layer - paired with a low gloss and textured surface. Works amazing n
We have tried so many different unerlays for laminate. From rubber, to closed cell foam, to cork (and many brands within these). LVP. Hands down better. We work with a larger builder in our area, and they were/are obsessed with making sure that the tenants in the lower suites have no issues. Took a while, but they are now completely sold on a glue down 5mm LVP
Going to be putting a floor down on concrete slab at Southwest Florida. Here they use a 6 mm thick plastic before they lay down the flooring as a vapor barrier. What flooring would you recommend for this type of application?
How do they feel underfoot. No one really ever covers how they feel when walking on the float floor. I have LVP in a small powder room and looks great but feels kinda cheap standing on. Its very small so i cant really walk on it to judge but here is where I think Laminate would win with a more solid feel and sound underfoot. Side question in that I assume Laminate would have the same vulnerability as Glue down engineered wood with water and be harder to remove. Thoughts Welcome.
Thanks for the questions! (and sorry for the tardy reply) A lot of how either will feel underfoot is both subjective and dependent on what’s underneath it. Whether or not one feels more or less solid, or warmer than the other, will be affected by a number of home-specific factors, including ambient temperature, subfloor, etc. As far as laminate-specific question, anything with a tongue and groove and/or click installation will require extra effort to repair, as you need to disassemble the floor to get to the trouble area to replace boards. For the vulnerability to humidity, most laminate products do not do well with prolonged exposure to water, but it’s always good to do a little research. We have a few videos on the channel that include our own findings, if you’re curious. Fuzion TidalCore Waterproof flooring (our newest trial): ruclips.net/video/JQRqpD9baCo/видео.html All product test done to date: ruclips.net/p/PLYVEWL5GAKTkbsskTEc5280sdpm-FhqSe (please keep in mind that our in-house testing is to push the limits of a product, and do not necessarily reflect typical conditions)
Hello! Really depends on the laminate. I would suggest to read through their instructions. Many of the higher end laminates now do not need any expansion joints. We try to err on the side of fewer joints, as worst case you can add them where you need to. Just more work, but makes a better flow in the floor.
On the flip side. I had the original glue down Pergo laminate. The water heater off the kitchen leaked. The floors were ruined by the next day. Curled up planks., I then had floating vinyl planks installed. Due to a big box installer stupidity, a water leak developed. The water went under the planks, and was not noticed for 3 months. Concrete subfloor. As a result, by the time it was noticed, the water had seeped up the walls, and all the walls, the inside covered in black mold, had to be ripped out. If I had laminate, the floors would have been ruined, but no concealed damage would have occurred.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It's definitely a good reminder that a floor's claim of being waterproof doesn't extend to what's beneath or around it. We can't imagine your frustration when the damage was finally discovered.
@@GRFlooring yea but a good underlay like cork wouldve surely minimized the damage, dont you think? combined with a good locking 5G locking system ofcourse
I'm planing to put floor in my semi truck and still have some doubts which one to put. Vinyl which is glued to the floor sound better, only because it's easier to repair and water, moisture resistant. What would be better to install under the vinyl? Of course first will do heat Insulation noise and thermal blocker type of material.
Thank you! Your video is very informative and helpful. I chose the "loose lay" vinyl flooring. I currently have Wilson Art Laminate that is 14 years old and is warping in my kitchen.
For an office, where the chairs are on rollers, which one is least likely to show scratches from chairs rolling over it? Please don't shy away from giving brand names.
Good question. Although the vinyl flooring would stand up better to the wear and tear of office chairs, we would also recommend soft/cushioned wheels, available at most office supply stores. The price of replacing the casters vs. the price of repairs is quite a bit less in the long run. As for brands, we haven’t done an independent test for that yet but we’ll add it to the potential list, as we start to produce more videos.
My Pergo instructions said to keep planks at least 2" wide. However, the best layout i could come up with requires the need to have one about 3/4" wide in the oven alcove running front to back...is that ok? Thanks!
Unless you install to their specifications - you won’t have any warranty. Even if the requirements aren’t reasonable. So you have to cut the staring boards (which will increase waste) to keep within their requirements - I would really recommend to do so. Does that make sense?
Do these terms refer to the same product: "Glue Down", "Loose Lay", "Peel and Stick"? If so, would you please let me know your opinion about which product is ideal for a concrete floor in a basement. Thank you!
Good morning - they refer to very similar products, but with different installation technologies. - Glue Down - this is usually a 2-3 mm thick product. It’s downside is that when it gets a lot of sunlight, it can buckle and warp. It’s upside is low cost. - Loose Lay refers to a 5mm thick product that just sits on the subfloor, we suggest to glue although it’s mostly unnecessary. It’s upside is that it doesn’t have any problems with sunlight, downside is that it costs more than a glue down. - Peel and stick - well, I have yet to find a product that actually sticks... so I would stay far away from this one. So - for a basement, if it’s the cost, and you have have many large windows - go with glue down. If it’s a walkout or does have lots of natural light - loose lay.
Good info! I'm turning a school bus into an RV and am wondering if there is a flooring that is okay for that purpose. It gets mighty hot in a bus sometimes, and it flexes and twists a little as you drive on uneven surfaces....
Well, in my opinion - two great options. Personally, I like comfort and warmth on the feet. My suggestion would actually be carpet tile. It's easy to put down, flexible, warm on the feet - and if you wreck a few tiles, easy to change! Or you could go 5mm Loose Lay - again easy to install, will handle heat, easy to fix - just not as comfy on the feet!
@@GRFlooring Thank you for your quick reply! I hadn't thought about carpet tiles...my last experience with those was probably in the 1970's...I imagine they are better now than then, and I'll look into that idea. FYI, I did insulate the bus floor and put 3/4 in plywood on top of the insulation so I should have warm feet. When you say "loose lay", is that the flooring in this vid that gets glued down and does not have snap together parts? I worry that the glue would get runny when the bus is sitting in the sun and turning into an oven....I can imagine hitting a bump and floor tiles go flying! (not really, but you know...)
Totally understand! And fortunately yes, carpet tile has come a long way! For the adhesive, it’s a very thin layer. And what happens is that if it does get very warm (over say 90 F) the glue will let go. Doesn’t mean that the tiles or planks will fly around, the they are made to stay in place by themselves. The glue just helps keep them I. Their spot.
Hi so what if 100% waterproofed laminate? I can’t decide if I want waterproof vinyl or waterproof laminate. I like the laminate because it thicker. What’s your thought ?
What we've found so far (with our suppliers, not to say this is the case everywhere) is that the waterproof laminate is only waterproof for X hours (typically 72 hours). And what happens is that it does absorb the water - and then expand, but dries out to its original shape. While LVP just doesn't absorb the water in the first place. The challenge that I feel is that when the laminate is expanded with all the moisture, it's more prone to damage - and the LVP isn't. That being said, how much moisture are you really expecting on the floor - and therefore is that as much of a big deal?
I am sure that I was told when my luxury vinyl plank floor was installed about a year ago, in my house, that I did not really need a floor protector under my office chair. However, I am finding that may not have been good information, as I have several areas where the floor appears to be damaged, most likely from the chair. And, the installing dealer NOW says the warranty does not include damage from rolling chairs. If I recall, we installed this same type of floor at my old office and again they never said that we should use floor mats. In fact, that contractor, I am pretty sure, said that we didn't need to worry and shouldn't have to use them.
That's unfortunate that you were told that you don't need protectors under your furniture. You really do. Be it hardwood, LVP, laminate - even ceramic tile requires protectors on furniture as to not scratch/damage the floor. At least with the LVP - the area that's currently effected, it's easy enough to change. Always protect your investment! Many different sales reps & even stores drink the Kool-aid of the manufacturers who always claim that their brand new shiny brand is bullet proof. They aren't. They are just floors. Sorry that I don't have a better answer for you!
Maybe hit the gym my friend, sure those are useful but if youre finding damage that fast, you clearly could stand to lose a few poubds, ive been selling floors of all kinds for over d decade snd never wouodve advised against protectors, but in 1 year? yea that should never happen unless you weight over 250....then there is also the possibility that you payed less than $4 sq. ft for your LVP and in that case sorry to say but you get what you pay for , shouldve went either with a better LVP or just stick to Stone Composite
What issue may occur when with the 5in overlay if you live in a place like Arizona or the High Desert in Cali where the temperature outside reaches 100 degrees
Good morning, well - it's not the air temperature that's the issue, it's the temperature on the floor. IE - as it comes through the windows, and beats down on the floor. Of course if your A/C isn't turned on, then the floor will heat up as well just from the air! That's where there adhesive isn't as important, and why they also suggest/offer the ability to loose lay. Install the glue or special tape around the perimeter of the room and loosely lay the LVP inside of that. The tape/adhesive is only there to help stop the floor from shifting too much. Still will move plenty though, and probably the reason for how much tile & stone that's used in your part of the world! Just my two cents! ;)
I liked your older video as well and the answers you provided in the comments- thanks! One LVP question about the repeating images. What are your thoughts about wider and longer planks? Do you think the repeating would perhaps be even less noticeable since you basically have fewer boards?
Thank you for the kind words! With the repeating, from what I've seen - it does show a bit less. The challenge is that the wider and longer the plank is, the more that it moves - so the better chance that if it gets colder the boards may shrink more... That's why the standards were 7" wide or so, and we are starting to see 9" coming in. That difference doesn't seem to be causing any issues with our testing - so it's just a theory so far.
It certainly will - which is why we strongly suggest to use the Loose Lay. These products are stable enough to not require glue (we just use as an extra bit of protection). The big problem that we see is that it doesn't need to be that hot out. Direct sunlight on the floor can increase the temperature well beyond 100F even when it isn't warm out. So again, if you're looking at LVP - loose lay is the way to go.
@@dinawoodward6430 We have Allure Vinyl at our back door. There is a pet door in the door and the afternoon sun shines through the opaque pet door, the floor has warped where the sun hits.
Great video, just when I think I found which material to go with, I find another video to make me think again. Ugh. What are your thoughts on revwood plus?
Hahahaha, I know the feeling! I really don't have any experience with RevWood Plus. So I cannot say anything with certainly. The good - it's a Mohawk product, and they stand behind what they sell (for the most part - not labour, but if there's an issue you can at least get a new floor). The bad - I have yet to find a laminate that I really like. The waterproof laminate (so far with our testing) just isn't. BUT - I'm sure that eventually we will find one that is! Maybe they would give you a sample to stick in a bucket of water for a bit and see if it expands???
Unfortunately again a line that we don’t have any experience with... Here is a list of those that we have tested, and have passed Cascade - Creative Options Cascade - Odyssey Fusion - Smart Drop XL - all All of these have passed over and over again - and we just don’t have problems. There have been others that originally passed, but after they changed for formula, have failed. But don’t just take our word for it, throw some heat on a sample, throw water on it. See how it reacts!
If you do the glue down can you use a luan or plywood underlayment to bring the floor up to match the thickness of your previous floor? Would this compromise the waterproofness (making up words, lol) of the flooring?
what do you think? lol there is nothing locking the boards in p-lace and leaving ineviteble tiny spaces between them with wooden subfloor and specifically no underlay you mentioned, obviously at some point your wooden subfloor would be compromised, did you expect a different answer or ? No you get what you pay for my friend, if you want both get some SPC with rubber or atleast cork (preferably rubber ) underlay and never worry about it again, hope this helped but im dissapointed in your question tbh
I noticed the vinyl plank is very easy to damage the edges. What happens if you have a piece that is not going under the molding but is in the middle of the floor where 2 pieces are joined?
So you're talking about the click vinyl planking, right? As the 5mm loose lay - very difficult to damage. The click, yes - extremely easy to damage. We currently have a builder customer of ours that is really sold on the click - no matter what we show and try to help them out with. Therefore, I actually have to send my brother (one of our best floating installers) to do their work. He will spend hours and hours cutting and replacing boards that get damaged during the install. (Then I have to listen to him complain about his wasted hours). ;)
Hey thank you for these videos, I have a question, in your opinion, I have a vinyl plank 8mm with a pad pre attached going on a wood subfloor, is it necessary to have additional underlay given these circumstances? Thank you
Mike Schlabs my pleasure! So, a few questions.. What thickness and type of wood subfloor? What is the joist spacing? How flat (not level, but flat). As in if you had a 10’ flat bar - how many hills and valleys in the floor? I assume this is a floating lvp? What does the installation instructions say?
@@GRFlooring I noticed that Mike hasn't gotten back to you with an answer. But I have a similar flooring situation and question about underlayment. I will be installing over hardwoods in one area, and installing over sub-floors that will be covered with 3/4" plywood to raise those floors to match the level of the hardwoods so that the adjoining floors levels match. Much of the LVP comes with a foam backing and the sellers say you don't need an underlayment. I feel like we might need one for sound and softness, and to protect the hardwoods for future rescue if desired. What are your thoughts?
I’m going back and forth with my designer trying to decide if I should go with LVP or Laminate. I know LVP is water resistance and Laminate supposedly scratch resistance, so hard to make the decision. What do you think about Cortona plus for LVP?
We have an uneven subfloor on power and jack foundation set in adobe. We know we need to do some evening out but perfection is impossible here. Which floor will show hide unevenness the most? We are thinking laminate because of the rigidity which we hope will float over imperfections better. Appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks!
Well, here is the conundrum. Laminate, yes is more rigid - but the challenge is that with rigidity comes the likelihood of breaking the tongue and groove. Most manufacturers will have a maximum tolerance of say 3/16" over 8'. And the reason is that repeatedly walking over the floor with voids under will actually cause the tongue and grove to break. Which will then cause the floor to gap and separate. 5mm Luxury Vinyl (not floating - as floating LVP would have the same challenges as the laminate) will conform to the subfloor. So it won't hide it, but it won't cause damage to the floor itself and should last a long time. I'm finally going to start working on some videos starting today - so will do a quick one about this (as it's a great question - and I have a heave in the showroom floor, so easy to show!). Give me a few days and I will have that up!
Very informative. My kitchen floor has tile and they are cracked and a little uneven, there's one part that's stick out. Do you suggest removing the tiles and even out the subfloor or put some paddings over the tiles and put on vinyl planks?
Thank you, It's always a balancing act - are you planning on living in the home for a while longer? Or is it a flip? If you're going to be there for a while, I would suggest to remove the tile and patch the subfloor. It will give you the best results. Whereas if you're not going to be there for a while longer - you could remove any loose tiles, fill that area in, then go over top. Would look as good, but if anything else pops or cracks, it will start telegraphing through to the floor.
@@GRFlooring thanks, I plan to live there for a couple more years so it sounds like patching the subfloor is the better solution. Side question, do you know what typically cause pops and cracks for tiles? Could it be tree roots going through the subfloor? Sorry if this is a silly question, I am new to this.
Not at all - never a silly question! Sorry for the delay, hadn’t gotten a notification that you had sent this! The cracks and pops in ceramic tile are usually caused by one of three problems. 1 - improperly set tile. If there isn’t enough thinset, it wasn’t at the right consistency- or wasn’t properly set (pressed and moved to make sure that you get full contact) - the the tiles have a better chance of coming apart with shifting subfloor. Either by movement in the ground or humidity changes. 2 - improper subfloor. As per TTMAC, you are required to have a total thickness of 1-1/8” plywood under all tile flooring. The reason for this is that we need to minimize the amount of movement in the subfloor. If the tiles are properly set, but you have a lot of movement in the subfloor (by not having the right strength), it can pop and crack. 3 - shifting concrete. This is something we find in basements. The ground moves to the point where it pulls the tile apart. Other than using a decoupling mat (which costs more), move people roll the dice.
@@GRFlooring in Australia rigid core (spc/wpc) flooring is called hybrid flooring. It makes research really hard and confusing because over here vinyl only refers to glue down!
Well - they are trying. The key to the durability in the laminate finish - is its hardness (which gives it the resistance to scratching). The problem with using that over a vinyl surface is that the vinyl will expand and contract with heat (think sun shining down on the floor, not the heat in the air). This movement would cause problems between the surface finish and the core itself, which would then delaminate or crack at the weakest point. There are laminates coming to the market now that do have a greater tolerance for moisture - but so far I'm not really impressed.
I am currently trying to decide between the three choices. Do I need to lay an underlayment down for any choice? Which would you recommend with children (spills) and a dog (nail scratches)?
Fair question! My question back - what's more important to you, scratches on the surface - or edge swelling? Dogs will cause LVP to scratch (possibly more so than the kids, but that's up to your kids! ;) ). But kids are more likely to spill water and not clean it up very quickly (at least with my kids). Personally - I went 5mm Loose Lay glued down in my home. I don't have a dog, but have two boys. For as much as I love my boys, they do spill and drop stuff all over. I personally can handle some scratches (if anything gets too bad, I can just change the board) - but spills on a laminate, with the swelling of the edges, I wouldn't be able to take. I'd be replacing that floor over and over. In fact, I was just (two weeks ago) looking at some rental properties - all of them had laminate. Every single suite - every one. In two buildings (one of 16 doors, one of 12) had warping of the boards due to water spilling, or not cleaning properly. And - I wouldn't ever suggest click LVP unless I really didn't like you. ;)
GR Flooring vinyl don’t warp? I heard some laminates are waterproof like www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/quickstep-impressive-laminate?gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRASEiwAENqAPlRu_bPNOKtjd9yFCTaEZRdmhrrj6GRQDb25K54AuOAsxKJ2owaa4xoChqIQAvD_BwE. Opinions? I have to decide between vinyl or laminate for a property I will rent out. This laminate is rated highly and costs 30% less than the vinyl the joiner is recommending. Opinions?
Nixon Chan great question...I’m seeing more and more laminate (Pergo Outlast+-for example) that claim to be water resistant/water proof. I have 4 Labradors ( I know🙄)- one is still a puppy and has accidents at times. Also a 4 year old. Spills happen. I’m told if cleaned within a few hours that it’s considered waterproof? LVP concerns me due to large dogs’ nails. Would love to hear back on this! Thx
Good morning! That is definitely a topic that does not get enough conversation! First of all, yes - there are definitely LVP lines that are made in the USA. The reason that 99% (a guess) is made overseas is more to cheap labour than it is to environmental concerns. That being said - the issue of products made overseas is that there may not be the same quality controls and thoughts to environmental friendliness. Not pointing any fingers - but we are talking about some parts of the world that for years was using lead in baby toys... So the two questions that must be asked when choosing an LVP (or any product, as many flooring options are mostly made overseas). 1 - Does the product contain any phthalates? 2 - Do you have Floorscore or any other 3rd party testing. The reason you don't want ANY phthalates in your floor (taken from google) "Most vinyl flooring contains chemicals called phthalates, many of which have been banned from children's products over concerns of negative health effects. Phthalates are used to soften plastic and vinyl and make them more flexible. But they're believed to be toxic and have been linked to a laundry list of ailments." Then, the Floorscore or other certifications helps make sure that the suppliers & manufacturers are not trying to bring over sub-part products. Hopefully this helps, but you're right - you really have to look and and ask questions from any flooring company before you buy!
You certainly can - the only real downside in my opinion is that it provides to insulation. So if the floor is currently cold - the LVP won't change that.
You can, as long as.. 1 - The tile is well adhered and not broken 2 - You should use Floor Patch (Ardex Feather Finish is what we use) to float over the floor, to fill in the grout joints.
Hello. My question for you is what actually happens physically to laminate when liquid sits too long on the boards? Does it get bubbles along the edges of the board or what ?
Great question! If the water is on top of the boards - then nothing. The actual surface is pretty waterproof. The issues arises that it never stays on the top, it will get to the edge. And the edges will allow the water/moisture to seep into the core or even under the floor itself. So when the edges get moisture/water - then the boards swell. The floor will cup. I’d be happy to send you some images if you’d like. Can show what the after effect is.
GR Flooring how long does the water have to sit generally to start warping the laminate? We have lvp in our current home and we are moving and unfortunately the builder only has three grey options, we are going with the laminate because of the warm woods offered. I am worried about how the laminate will handle and accidental glass of water dropping on the ground.
@@33ttpat10 You have the time between when the water hits the floor, and when it's not there anymore to wipe it up. Don't sweat if it's on the floor for 10sec while you grab a towel, but don't let a puddle sit from washing dishes for an hour every couple days.
Thank you great information in this video. One question. In a basement application, do you recommend putting LV directly on the slab or on a subfloor? I am not worried about cold floors, more comfort when walking. I have limited height in my basement. Water has been an issue 2x in the past 23 years, impacting about 25% of the floors.
Thank you, Yes - as long as you don’t mind the fact that it won’t add any insulation to the floor. You will be fine. If the floor moves / cracks - you can lift out the floor, fix the concrete or wood, and reinstall.
The vinyl is usually a virgin vinyl (not recycled) with a print of wood or tile and then a finish (of more vinyl) on top. The Loose Lay versions have emulsified fiberglass in the core to give it stability. Laminates are usually a High Density Fiberboard (HDF) with a print of wood or tile, and then a finish (usually aluminum oxide). This finish is more scratch resistant than the vinyl on the LVP, but not as flexible.
Deek 44 it is the laminate that is affected by the changes in humidity. There are some laminates that are affected less - but luxury vinyl plank is not affected at all by moisture.
Well, I personally would have no problem using a 5mm Loose Lay product in there. But even with the stability, it still is plastic, so it will expand during the summer and shrink during the winter. So just keep that in mind - it will still move. It’s just that unlike laminate, the floor won’t get wrecked. It will still be fine.
How can you tell what kind of floor you have ? Laminate, LVP or something else. I still can’t tell by watching videos. Or how can you tell if they are sealed
Good morning! We carry all types of flooring - hardwood, laminate, carpet, tile, vinyl plank - anything to do with flooring. By sealed - do you mean waterproof? Or stain resistant?
@@GRFlooring I didn’t know there was a stain resistant too. I meant waterproof but is there a way to tell if they are waterproof and/or stain resistant?
I want to turn my attached garage into a work out room. We do not park our truck in there, but the next owner may, so what would you recommend for a nice looking alternative to the concrete floor we stare at now??
5mm LVP. Glued down - and use PL subfloor adhesive on the edge to the overhead door. One of the salespeople here have had it in theirs for the last 7 years. And every spring they use a pressure washer to clean - works great!
Good morning, It dosen't really have to be even - just flat. Any unevenness would of course still be there, but won't effect the floor. Flatness is usually required to be within 3/8" or less over a 8' span.
Thank you! You are very correct - this is (in my opinion) a ticking time bomb in the flooring industry... One of the downsides to this 'Race to the Bottom Price' that so many products are experiencing is causing/effecting suppliers to use more and more fillers and whatever else that's really bad! Here's a link that I like about Phalates. www.ecocenter.org/healthy-stuff/reports/vinyl-floor-tiles/flooring_recommendations Basically it really comes down to the store/supplier/mfg - holding the line on quality. Not only is recycled cored luxury vinyl less stable than virgin (basically moves more when exposed to changes in temperature), it's also very much more possible to have phalates. That's why all of our suppliers are A - reputable companies who aren't just stamping whatever on their boxes, they also are B - confirming that their products meet and or exceed requirements! (in LVP - that means phalate free). I have an old friend who's a chemist, and have asked him in the past if there was a simple/inexpensive test that we could perform on our products before we allowed them in our warehouse. Unfortunately at this point, he tells me that it's pretty far beyond the reach of a simple flooring company. So we are reliant on our suppliers to hold the mfg to task. And I'm pretty confident that they are doing so. That being said - I would LOVE to be able to do this as a standard test on every vinyl floor that we get (same as we do a moisture test on all hardwood flooring) to be 100% safe. So read, ask questions and be safe!
Nyc Butterfly Braids Hair Story Podcast It is not hard to decide. Stay away from laminate. Things go bad quick with it. Water is always a bad idea with wood. Especially wood composite. I only use luxury vinyl click or glue down.
No it will not, the stick down does not hold up in damp areas either. I worked for a high volume turn over apartment complex with over 1000 apartment buildings. The company had us installing that stick down vinyl knowing that within the year we would be required to replace. Then again section 8 housing does not get good products at least that was how it was in the early 1990s. Use a tile or product designed for both radiant heat from either electric floor heating or hydronic heating. You want a material that will hold and spread or radiate the heat evenly.
Very true - there have been many new types of peel and stick over the years, but the adhesive does have a lot of limitations. And most of the testing that we’ve done - shows that it dosen’t stick overly well in wet areas either.
We just installed laminate in our kitchen. Im prayin hard daily for no leaks, & Im on constant lookout for any fresh spills. I woulda loved the vinyl floor, but can scratch easily. So, why dont they put out a flooring to combine the sturdy laminate, with the core of the vinyl for the moisture resistance?? Do they even make that product? If not, it would be a fantastic idea! Best of both worlds, & would draw SO many consumers! If they made that, I would do my whole house in it.
Sorry for that confusion. The loose lay, being a vinyl product, would have the same great water resistance as all other vinyl flooring options. Keep in mind that, depending on the amount of water, your subfloor may still be affected. Good catch! Thanks for pointing that out.
How do you install glue down laminate in the vicinity of a hearth? A stone hearth will take most of the heat from a fireplace, but I’d assume the adjacent laminate would be at least 95 degrees.
Installing almost anything (short of tile, stone, etc) all depends on the fireplace. Each fireplace will have a zone where you cannot have any combustible material within that area. Usually in our part of the world, that’s where you use a hearth. As long as it’s the correct dimensions - you can go right up to it with anything, and it won’t get too warm to cause any problems. The newer fireplaces are usually zero clearance - which means that you can go right up to it. So, you will need to find out what the clearance zone is before you start installing any flooring there.
My kitchen floor is old sheet vinyl. I want to replace with vinyl tiles or planks. Currently my kitchen floor seems uneven and it squeeks and creeks. What could be causing this and can I put new vinyl flooring on top of this existing uneven, squeeking floor? If not how do you fix?
Your best bet would be to remove the floor and subfloor - and install new. The squeaks might possibly be fixed with deck screws, but to fix the unevenness - unfortunately you are stuck with removal and reinstallation.
Good morning! So far, our tests of waterproof laminate have shown us that it really isn't. That being said - I do have another product that a manufacturer has requested testing, so I will be doing a video on that (as soon as we get time to do it!)
Some manufacturers use Aluminum Oxide, others use Ceramic Beads - and more. But they all still use the mil thickness for their durability rating. Those are additives that are meant to help...
Thanks for the great question. One of the advantages of Loose Lay is that the product doesn’t require glue. If you have a 2 or 3mm (that doesn’t have the fiberglass stabilization layer), you will have some movement and warping. The 5mm loose lay, however, will not be a problem as when it gets warm, the glue releases BUT when it cools down, the glue will grab again.
Using the adjective “luxury” in this case is likely to differentiate from the early iterations of vinyl flooring, as construction and designs have both evolved quite a bit, even in recent years. We don’t specialize in etymology, though, so we just use the words the industry uses. Likely not the answer you’re looking for but it’s the best we can do. Hope that clarifies things a little and thanks for watching.
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Finally someone explained the differences. I kept finding videos of laminate vs sheet vinyl flooring
Glad it helped!
This is the simplest video I’ve found with the difference between vinyl and laminate thank you so much so informative answered all my questions!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Agreee, Im doing a remodel and I've never looked before a video on this topic and this was super clear and concise, thumbs down must be from aliens (wtf???)
@@GRFlooring keep it up, cheers!
@@americanpaintciudadjuarez2309 Thanks, Raul! We'll do out best. Thanks for watching.
It is super easy to understand
FINALLY a clear delivery on the LVP and Laminate differences
Thank you 👍👍
Thank you for this outstanding, clear, honest, helpful video!!!
Our pleasure! Thank you for watching!
I have Mohawk it’s 20 yrs old and still looks new. From having so much parties it’s amazing.
That's great to hear! If it's installed correctly and maintained. You should be great for years to come!
Mohawk RevWood? We have LVP and it’s a plastic crap. Your subfloor has to be perfect or everything pops through or uneven.
Great video, very helpful! Thank you! I see you're a minister from the comments. It shows!
Love this video. I am an interior design student and now I am learning materials and feel totally lost sometime. But thanks for the clear explanation between those two. Subscribed! Vancouver Canada
Very glad we could help, and good luck with the rest of your studies! Goes to show we can't always assume it's only buyers that are watching our videos.
Great job explaining -- you make it easy to choice the right one!
Thanks for the video and the professionalism of your responses to comments.
Our pleasure!
What about waterproof laminate they make now? Pergo is one of the beat products on the market, and I am really considering it for my floors.
Yeah. From we have found (and take this like everything - with a grain of salt) they say that they are waterproof. From what we have found, they do absorb water, and most then when away from the source of water will go down. The problem is that if you walk and or move furniture while it’s swollen, you have a very good chance of damaging the board.
Just our two cents
Great explanation!!!...Appreciate the info...my question is this....What about cleaning/refinishing over time like a wood floor? Is that possible with vinyl or laminate?..Do you have another video comparing the two with wood flooring? I have wood flooring now and the upkeep it unbearable!!! Any additional info would be greatly appreciated!!
Unfortunately, you can not refinish laminate or vinyl flooring. A solid hardwood floor can be refinished a number of times, and an engineered hardwood floor can be refinished a few times (depending on how thick the veneer is), because of that wood component on top. Laminates are made up of composite materials and vinyl is essentially a type of plastic. Both options have their pros, including a lower cost than hardwood (making replacement/repairs cheaper), but can not be refinished.
Hope that helps.
Clear concise information. I wish you could speak to brands as well. Not all brands are the same. I have samples from Pergo and other laminates and I am surprised at how different they are in scratch resistance. The Pergo so far has the best scratch resistance for laminates. It would also be nice to cover price points and the differences and values associated with price as some brands or tiers within a brand come with the backing preinstalled. I am going into sensory overload on flooring and any assistance is helpful. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the kind words!
While I would love to discuss specific brands - the technology changes so fast that while it would be accurate now - give it a few months, change in mill - and the info would be completely out of date.
For laminates, the very fortunate scale for durability is AC. It's a scale that goes from 1 - 5 (although there are some 6s, it's not recognized by everyone). This scale - the higher, the better it is for scratch resistance.
So for scratch resistance of laminate - go for a 4 or 5, and you won't go wrong.
For water resistance, that's a different beast. I would ask your store to give you a board or two and take it home. Walk on it, pull chairs across it, splash water and other household chemicals! The floors are meant to be lived on - and anyone who supports what they are selling wouldn't have any problems with it.
The proof is in the floor itself. Once you've had a chance to throw things at a few floors, I'm sure that one will rise above! ;)
I did submerged Pergo laminate sample from Home Depot to bucket of water for 24 hrs. Nothing happened at all. Not ether one grain bulged up. Perfect.
Excellent!
I see the brand Pergo selling their own called “Outlast+ Waterproof Soft Oak Glazed 10 mm T x 7.48 in. W x 47.24 in. L Laminate Flooring”. They claim that it’s water proof. Would that be a suitable flooring that’s scratch resistant as well as true water proof?
This is really helpful, thanks for explaining so clearly. Subscribed. Lagos, Nigeria.
Thank you!
Watched a video of a guy testing traditional hardwood vs vinyl vs laminate and needless to say the vinyl wiped the floor durability wise did everything from dragging a fridge across it dragging a chair across it dropping a knife on it and more and the vinyl basically had no damage from any of it
What’s the name of the video?
@@PresidentGas1 Nice! Vinyl definitely stood up way better
Laminate had very little damage, I saw it
@@bluenosedive I’ve seen it too and believe it is from the Funny Carpenter on RUclips.
The choice between the two was made for me by taking samples of laminate and LVP and intentionally trying to scratch them with a key. The LVP scratched with little effort and you have to get fairly aggressive with the laminate to get it to scratch. With that eye opener; I have dogs and the likely hood of them peeing on the floor is always possible, but after the key test, there's no doubt in my mind that my dogs will scratch LVP on the first day of install as they round the corner to run for the backdoor. So laminate it is. But I also have no doubt that within a few years, LVP will be made with the scratch resistance of laminate and I'll be looking back thinking, "I should have waited". lol
I have core tech LVP installed in my kitchen with 2 80lb dogs and I have no issues. It was very expensive at 7/sqft for material only
I'll see
Can you put a vanity, washer and dryer on top of luxury vinyl planks, the click in type?
Yes you can
You can with most - just make sure that their warranty covers that. We have seen multiple floors get pulled apart if the joints aren’t strong enough to handle the spin cycle!
GR Flooring oh man I hope that doesn’t happen
Thanks for the information!
Durability really all depends on the product. People really need to understand the product specification for the wear layer. I just laid a thousand square foot of rigid core one hundred percent waterproof LVP last week, and it already has scratches on it. Now I'm doing more research. I thought just choosing rigid core waterproof LVP would be good enough, but it's not.
Very true. And while durability is defined by ‘ability to withstand wear’ - it certainly doesn’t mean that it won’t wear. Or scratch. Or mark.
This is why most products these days (at least in the lvp and woods) seem to be going more and more to the lower glosses, and textures.
The less shine you have, the less of this wear that you will see.
And if the floor already has marks all over it - again, harder to see whatever damage that you’ve done! ;)
Coretec
Which one would you recommend for a wheelchair? Do any of them have ADA compliance?
Good question, Joanne.
Being a Canadian business, we are less familiar with the ADA guidelines, and wouldn’t want to steer you in the wrong direction. That said, we support and recommend a 5mm LVP to residential customers who need to consider the specific wear and tear of a wheelchair in the home. If it’s for a public/commercial setting, however, you may want to consider a commercial grade PVC flooring, as it would stand up better to the higher traffic volume.
Hope that helps.
Are the click together vinyl planks noisier then the glue down vinyl planks? I assume they're both quieter than laminate.
Depends what you put underneath your vinyl planks if you use like a 5mm recycle rubber underlayment it well reduce the noise but if you just use foam underlayment then you will hear a little more noise it all depends how much you trying to spend to install some type of rubber underlayment for your vinyl planks
Very true - and with many of the click vinyl planking there is already an underlay. If there is - do not use another underlay beneath, as it may then have too much give and the floor can come apart.
Thank you so much for your video! Which one would you recommend for the bathroom? SPC, Vinyl or Laminate?
Well, depends on what you have now - and the use of the bathroom.
First of all - no go on the laminate. Bad idea. Moisture not so great (even with the water resistant laminates - SPC or vinyl is better.
Next, if you’re down to the subfloor already - go LVP or sheet vinyl. Better for keeping any moisture on the surface, and not down on the subfloor.
If this is a half-bath (without shower or tub) then it’s not as important.
SPC - if you already have a floor down in the bathroom, and aren’t wanting to pull it up before you install.
Makes sense?
Renovated a house from the 60's with vinyl which had been you guessed it vinyled-over again - needless to say, the original vinyl was in near pristine condition; whoever they are the aliens will find vinyl preserved from early human pre-history!
Looking at LVP for a mother-in-law unit over concrete with in-floor radiant heat. Remodeler friend recommended Coretec with the cork backer (floating floor). Your thoughts on this product or others you might use?
Sorry for the late reply, but it wouldn’t have been much use to you anyway. We don’t carry COREtec flooring, so we can’t comment on their product. In terms of installing LVP on a floor with radiant heat, it shouldn’t be a problem but you’ll want to double check the LVP manufacturer’s specifications and warranty regarding the maximum heat threshold, as they all differ from one another.
The 5mm products that we sell show great success with in-floor heat. If you're in Regina, you can come in and see us or check out our website for options: www.grflooring.ca/collections/lvp
Finally someone articulated commenting about this subject
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. What do you think about that new LifeProof flooring? From Home Depot
So which one out of the three pieces on your table falls under "pure spc max". I didnt catch you mentioning it in this video, but if its none then can you atleast tell me which is closes to the one i meantioned.?
What about waterproofing underneath, before putting vinyl planks down?? I have laminate flooring now. I want the vinyl planks. Thank you
It can work. Some of our commercial customer require us to use Hydroban (a liquid waterproofing membrane).
Makes the adhesive take forever to dry, but you’re protected!
Thank you. So sounds like put vinyl in the bathroom and kitchen and laminate in the other rooms and hallways ?
My pleasure!
You certainly can do that - might give you the best of both worlds!
Would you comment on scratch resistance for VLP with 20 mil wear layer?
Of course! Wear layers are part and parcel of the durability of the floor.
20 mils and more is considered commercially rated, and under is residential.
Personally, we have found that anything with a 12mil or greater layer - paired with a low gloss and textured surface. Works amazing n
Which is better in terms of minimising noise for downstairs neighbours if you live in an apartment? Google gives conflicting opinions.
We have tried so many different unerlays for laminate. From rubber, to closed cell foam, to cork (and many brands within these).
LVP. Hands down better.
We work with a larger builder in our area, and they were/are obsessed with making sure that the tenants in the lower suites have no issues.
Took a while, but they are now completely sold on a glue down 5mm LVP
Going to be putting a floor down on concrete slab at Southwest Florida. Here they use a 6 mm thick plastic before they lay down the flooring as a vapor barrier. What flooring would you recommend for this type of application?
How do they feel underfoot. No one really ever covers how they feel when walking on the float floor. I have LVP in a small powder room and looks great but feels kinda cheap standing on. Its very small so i cant really walk on it to judge but here is where I think Laminate would win with a more solid feel and sound underfoot. Side question in that I assume Laminate would have the same vulnerability as Glue down engineered wood with water and be harder to remove. Thoughts Welcome.
Thanks for the questions! (and sorry for the tardy reply)
A lot of how either will feel underfoot is both subjective and dependent on what’s underneath it. Whether or not one feels more or less solid, or warmer than the other, will be affected by a number of home-specific factors, including ambient temperature, subfloor, etc.
As far as laminate-specific question, anything with a tongue and groove and/or click installation will require extra effort to repair, as you need to disassemble the floor to get to the trouble area to replace boards. For the vulnerability to humidity, most laminate products do not do well with prolonged exposure to water, but it’s always good to do a little research.
We have a few videos on the channel that include our own findings, if you’re curious.
Fuzion TidalCore Waterproof flooring (our newest trial): ruclips.net/video/JQRqpD9baCo/видео.html
All product test done to date: ruclips.net/p/PLYVEWL5GAKTkbsskTEc5280sdpm-FhqSe
(please keep in mind that our in-house testing is to push the limits of a product, and do not necessarily reflect typical conditions)
On a large Laminate floor do you need expansion joints ? We are looking at the Mohawk Revwood ?
Hello! Really depends on the laminate. I would suggest to read through their instructions.
Many of the higher end laminates now do not need any expansion joints. We try to err on the side of fewer joints, as worst case you can add them where you need to. Just more work, but makes a better flow in the floor.
Came across waterproof laminate. Glue on slab and lay in place? Place tile in kitchen and laundry areas?
On the flip side. I had the original glue down Pergo laminate. The water heater off the kitchen leaked. The floors were ruined by the next day. Curled up planks.,
I then had floating vinyl planks installed. Due to a big box installer stupidity, a water leak developed. The water went under the planks, and was not noticed for 3 months. Concrete subfloor. As a result, by the time it was noticed, the water had seeped up the walls, and all the walls, the inside covered in black mold, had to be ripped out. If I had laminate, the floors would have been ruined, but no concealed damage would have occurred.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It's definitely a good reminder that a floor's claim of being waterproof doesn't extend to what's beneath or around it. We can't imagine your frustration when the damage was finally discovered.
@@GRFlooring yea but a good underlay like cork wouldve surely minimized the damage, dont you think? combined with a good locking 5G locking system ofcourse
I'm planing to put floor in my semi truck and still have some doubts which one to put. Vinyl which is glued to the floor sound better, only because it's easier to repair and water, moisture resistant. What would be better to install under the vinyl? Of course first will do heat Insulation noise and thermal blocker type of material.
Hmmm, that's a good question. You're talking about in the cab of the truck I assume? What is in there now?
Thank you! Your video is very informative and helpful. I chose the "loose lay" vinyl flooring. I currently have Wilson Art Laminate that is 14 years old and is warping in my kitchen.
Glad it was helpful!
For an office, where the chairs are on rollers, which one is least likely to show scratches from chairs rolling over it? Please don't shy away from giving brand names.
Good question.
Although the vinyl flooring would stand up better to the wear and tear of office chairs, we would also recommend soft/cushioned wheels, available at most office supply stores. The price of replacing the casters vs. the price of repairs is quite a bit less in the long run.
As for brands, we haven’t done an independent test for that yet but we’ll add it to the potential list, as we start to produce more videos.
My Pergo instructions said to keep planks at least 2" wide. However, the best layout i could come up with requires the need to have one about 3/4" wide in the oven alcove running front to back...is that ok? Thanks!
Unless you install to their specifications - you won’t have any warranty. Even if the requirements aren’t reasonable.
So you have to cut the staring boards (which will increase waste) to keep within their requirements - I would really recommend to do so.
Does that make sense?
You will never win a floor warranty claim anyway do what you need to do
Do these terms refer to the same product: "Glue Down", "Loose Lay", "Peel and Stick"? If so, would you please let me know your opinion about which product is ideal for a concrete floor in a basement. Thank you!
Good morning - they refer to very similar products, but with different installation technologies.
- Glue Down - this is usually a 2-3 mm thick product. It’s downside is that when it gets a lot of sunlight, it can buckle and warp. It’s upside is low cost.
- Loose Lay refers to a 5mm thick product that just sits on the subfloor, we suggest to glue although it’s mostly unnecessary. It’s upside is that it doesn’t have any problems with sunlight, downside is that it costs more than a glue down.
- Peel and stick - well, I have yet to find a product that actually sticks... so I would stay far away from this one.
So - for a basement, if it’s the cost, and you have have many large windows - go with glue down. If it’s a walkout or does have lots of natural light - loose lay.
@@GRFlooring Thank you!
Good info! I'm turning a school bus into an RV and am wondering if there is a flooring that is okay for that purpose. It gets mighty hot in a bus sometimes, and it flexes and twists a little as you drive on uneven surfaces....
Well, in my opinion - two great options.
Personally, I like comfort and warmth on the feet. My suggestion would actually be carpet tile. It's easy to put down, flexible, warm on the feet - and if you wreck a few tiles, easy to change!
Or you could go 5mm Loose Lay - again easy to install, will handle heat, easy to fix - just not as comfy on the feet!
@@GRFlooring Thank you for your quick reply! I hadn't thought about carpet tiles...my last experience with those was probably in the 1970's...I imagine they are better now than then, and I'll look into that idea. FYI, I did insulate the bus floor and put 3/4 in plywood on top of the insulation so I should have warm feet. When you say "loose lay", is that the flooring in this vid that gets glued down and does not have snap together parts? I worry that the glue would get runny when the bus is sitting in the sun and turning into an oven....I can imagine hitting a bump and floor tiles go flying! (not really, but you know...)
Totally understand! And fortunately yes, carpet tile has come a long way!
For the adhesive, it’s a very thin layer. And what happens is that if it does get very warm (over say 90 F) the glue will let go.
Doesn’t mean that the tiles or planks will fly around, the they are made to stay in place by themselves. The glue just helps keep them I. Their spot.
Hi so what if 100% waterproofed laminate? I can’t decide if I want waterproof vinyl or waterproof laminate. I like the laminate because it thicker. What’s your thought ?
What we've found so far (with our suppliers, not to say this is the case everywhere) is that the waterproof laminate is only waterproof for X hours (typically 72 hours). And what happens is that it does absorb the water - and then expand, but dries out to its original shape. While LVP just doesn't absorb the water in the first place. The challenge that I feel is that when the laminate is expanded with all the moisture, it's more prone to damage - and the LVP isn't.
That being said, how much moisture are you really expecting on the floor - and therefore is that as much of a big deal?
I am sure that I was told when my luxury vinyl plank floor was installed about a year ago, in my house, that I did not really need a floor protector under my office chair. However, I am finding that may not have been good information, as I have several areas where the floor appears to be damaged, most likely from the chair. And, the installing dealer NOW says the warranty does not include damage from rolling chairs. If I recall, we installed this same type of floor at my old office and again they never said that we should use floor mats. In fact, that contractor, I am pretty sure, said that we didn't need to worry and shouldn't have to use them.
That's unfortunate that you were told that you don't need protectors under your furniture.
You really do. Be it hardwood, LVP, laminate - even ceramic tile requires protectors on furniture as to not scratch/damage the floor.
At least with the LVP - the area that's currently effected, it's easy enough to change.
Always protect your investment! Many different sales reps & even stores drink the Kool-aid of the manufacturers who always claim that their brand new shiny brand is bullet proof.
They aren't. They are just floors. Sorry that I don't have a better answer for you!
Maybe hit the gym my friend, sure those are useful but if youre finding damage that fast, you clearly could stand to lose a few poubds, ive been selling floors of all kinds for over d decade snd never wouodve advised against protectors, but in 1 year? yea that should never happen unless you weight over 250....then there is also the possibility that you payed less than $4 sq. ft for your LVP and in that case sorry to say but you get what you pay for , shouldve went either with a better LVP or just stick to Stone Composite
Hi. Can the glue on be installed over carpet.
No, not it cannot. The carpet would have to come out first!
What issue may occur when with the 5in overlay if you live in a place like Arizona or the High Desert in Cali where the temperature outside reaches 100 degrees
Good morning, well - it's not the air temperature that's the issue, it's the temperature on the floor. IE - as it comes through the windows, and beats down on the floor. Of course if your A/C isn't turned on, then the floor will heat up as well just from the air!
That's where there adhesive isn't as important, and why they also suggest/offer the ability to loose lay. Install the glue or special tape around the perimeter of the room and loosely lay the LVP inside of that. The tape/adhesive is only there to help stop the floor from shifting too much.
Still will move plenty though, and probably the reason for how much tile & stone that's used in your part of the world! Just my two cents! ;)
I liked your older video as well and the answers you provided in the comments- thanks! One LVP question about the repeating images. What are your thoughts about wider and longer planks? Do you think the repeating would perhaps be even less noticeable since you basically have fewer boards?
Thank you for the kind words!
With the repeating, from what I've seen - it does show a bit less. The challenge is that the wider and longer the plank is, the more that it moves - so the better chance that if it gets colder the boards may shrink more...
That's why the standards were 7" wide or so, and we are starting to see 9" coming in. That difference doesn't seem to be causing any issues with our testing - so it's just a theory so far.
What if it's warm out and the room is 100° will the glue release then?
It certainly will - which is why we strongly suggest to use the Loose Lay. These products are stable enough to not require glue (we just use as an extra bit of protection).
The big problem that we see is that it doesn't need to be that hot out. Direct sunlight on the floor can increase the temperature well beyond 100F even when it isn't warm out. So again, if you're looking at LVP - loose lay is the way to go.
Why would a room ever reach that temperature?!?! I mean unless it's a hot kitchen or something or you have no roof and its under direct sunlight
@@dinawoodward6430 We have Allure Vinyl at our back door. There is a pet door in the door and the afternoon sun shines through the opaque pet door, the floor has warped where the sun hits.
@@dinawoodward6430 During storm in the summer sometimes Powers outrage house gets so hot.
Great video, just when I think I found which material to go with, I find another video to make me think again. Ugh. What are your thoughts on revwood plus?
Hahahaha, I know the feeling!
I really don't have any experience with RevWood Plus. So I cannot say anything with certainly.
The good - it's a Mohawk product, and they stand behind what they sell (for the most part - not labour, but if there's an issue you can at least get a new floor).
The bad - I have yet to find a laminate that I really like. The waterproof laminate (so far with our testing) just isn't. BUT - I'm sure that eventually we will find one that is! Maybe they would give you a sample to stick in a bucket of water for a bit and see if it expands???
Thanks for the quick response. Found another product, Cali Bamboo vinyl. Any thoughts on that? Thanks again.
Unfortunately again a line that we don’t have any experience with... Here is a list of those that we have tested, and have passed
Cascade - Creative Options
Cascade - Odyssey
Fusion - Smart Drop
XL - all
All of these have passed over and over again - and we just don’t have problems. There have been others that originally passed, but after they changed for formula, have failed.
But don’t just take our word for it, throw some heat on a sample, throw water on it. See how it reacts!
If you do the glue down can you use a luan or plywood underlayment to bring the floor up to match the thickness of your previous floor? Would this compromise the waterproofness (making up words, lol) of the flooring?
what do you think? lol there is nothing locking the boards in p-lace and leaving ineviteble tiny spaces between them with wooden subfloor and specifically no underlay you mentioned, obviously at some point your wooden subfloor would be compromised, did you expect a different answer or ? No you get what you pay for my friend, if you want both get some SPC with rubber or atleast cork (preferably rubber ) underlay and never worry about it again, hope this helped but im dissapointed in your question tbh
I noticed the vinyl plank is very easy to damage the edges. What happens if you have a piece that is not going under the molding but is in the middle of the floor where 2 pieces are joined?
So you're talking about the click vinyl planking, right? As the 5mm loose lay - very difficult to damage. The click, yes - extremely easy to damage.
We currently have a builder customer of ours that is really sold on the click - no matter what we show and try to help them out with. Therefore, I actually have to send my brother (one of our best floating installers) to do their work. He will spend hours and hours cutting and replacing boards that get damaged during the install. (Then I have to listen to him complain about his wasted hours). ;)
Hey thank you for these videos, I have a question, in your opinion, I have a vinyl plank 8mm with a pad pre attached going on a wood subfloor, is it necessary to have additional underlay given these circumstances? Thank you
Mike Schlabs my pleasure!
So, a few questions..
What thickness and type of wood subfloor?
What is the joist spacing?
How flat (not level, but flat). As in if you had a 10’ flat bar - how many hills and valleys in the floor?
I assume this is a floating lvp? What does the installation instructions say?
@@GRFlooring I noticed that Mike hasn't gotten back to you with an answer. But I have a similar flooring situation and question about underlayment. I will be installing over hardwoods in one area, and installing over sub-floors that will be covered with 3/4" plywood to raise those floors to match the level of the hardwoods so that the adjoining floors levels match. Much of the LVP comes with a foam backing and the sellers say you don't need an underlayment. I feel like we might need one for sound and softness, and to protect the hardwoods for future rescue if desired. What are your thoughts?
I’m going back and forth with my designer trying to decide if I should go with LVP or Laminate. I know LVP is water resistance and Laminate supposedly scratch resistance, so hard to make the decision. What do you think about Cortona plus for LVP?
We have an uneven subfloor on power and jack foundation set in adobe. We know we need to do some evening out but perfection is impossible here. Which floor will show hide unevenness the most? We are thinking laminate because of the rigidity which we hope will float over imperfections better. Appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks!
Well, here is the conundrum. Laminate, yes is more rigid - but the challenge is that with rigidity comes the likelihood of breaking the tongue and groove. Most manufacturers will have a maximum tolerance of say 3/16" over 8'. And the reason is that repeatedly walking over the floor with voids under will actually cause the tongue and grove to break. Which will then cause the floor to gap and separate.
5mm Luxury Vinyl (not floating - as floating LVP would have the same challenges as the laminate) will conform to the subfloor. So it won't hide it, but it won't cause damage to the floor itself and should last a long time.
I'm finally going to start working on some videos starting today - so will do a quick one about this (as it's a great question - and I have a heave in the showroom floor, so easy to show!). Give me a few days and I will have that up!
Tile with area rugs is best IMO. Easy to change out rugs and never have to worry about tile and water....
Very informative. My kitchen floor has tile and they are cracked and a little uneven, there's one part that's stick out. Do you suggest removing the tiles and even out the subfloor or put some paddings over the tiles and put on vinyl planks?
Thank you,
It's always a balancing act - are you planning on living in the home for a while longer? Or is it a flip?
If you're going to be there for a while, I would suggest to remove the tile and patch the subfloor. It will give you the best results.
Whereas if you're not going to be there for a while longer - you could remove any loose tiles, fill that area in, then go over top. Would look as good, but if anything else pops or cracks, it will start telegraphing through to the floor.
@@GRFlooring thanks, I plan to live there for a couple more years so it sounds like patching the subfloor is the better solution. Side question, do you know what typically cause pops and cracks for tiles? Could it be tree roots going through the subfloor? Sorry if this is a silly question, I am new to this.
Not at all - never a silly question! Sorry for the delay, hadn’t gotten a notification that you had sent this!
The cracks and pops in ceramic tile are usually caused by one of three problems.
1 - improperly set tile. If there isn’t enough thinset, it wasn’t at the right consistency- or wasn’t properly set (pressed and moved to make sure that you get full contact) - the the tiles have a better chance of coming apart with shifting subfloor. Either by movement in the ground or humidity changes.
2 - improper subfloor. As per TTMAC, you are required to have a total thickness of 1-1/8” plywood under all tile flooring. The reason for this is that we need to minimize the amount of movement in the subfloor. If the tiles are properly set, but you have a lot of movement in the subfloor (by not having the right strength), it can pop and crack.
3 - shifting concrete. This is something we find in basements. The ground moves to the point where it pulls the tile apart. Other than using a decoupling mat (which costs more), move people roll the dice.
Forgive me father for I have sinned. I bought one of the earliest flexible vinyl plank and it did not hold up well at all...
Thanks for the video. Simple, to the point, and informative. Cheers.
I'm having trouble deciding Laminate or Hybrid Vinyl can you please tell me what way to go
Hybrid Vinyl?
@@GRFlooring in Australia rigid core (spc/wpc) flooring is called hybrid flooring. It makes research really hard and confusing because over here vinyl only refers to glue down!
Thanks for the video!
I've always wondered why they don't just put a laminate finish with the vinyl water resistant core...?
Well - they are trying.
The key to the durability in the laminate finish - is its hardness (which gives it the resistance to scratching). The problem with using that over a vinyl surface is that the vinyl will expand and contract with heat (think sun shining down on the floor, not the heat in the air). This movement would cause problems between the surface finish and the core itself, which would then delaminate or crack at the weakest point.
There are laminates coming to the market now that do have a greater tolerance for moisture - but so far I'm not really impressed.
Laminate flooring for me...thank you for answering that easily
Any time!
can you lay the luxury vinyl plank on cement?
You certainly can.
I am currently trying to decide between the three choices. Do I need to lay an underlayment down for any choice? Which would you recommend with children (spills) and a dog (nail scratches)?
Fair question!
My question back - what's more important to you, scratches on the surface - or edge swelling?
Dogs will cause LVP to scratch (possibly more so than the kids, but that's up to your kids! ;) ). But kids are more likely to spill water and not clean it up very quickly (at least with my kids).
Personally - I went 5mm Loose Lay glued down in my home. I don't have a dog, but have two boys. For as much as I love my boys, they do spill and drop stuff all over. I personally can handle some scratches (if anything gets too bad, I can just change the board) - but spills on a laminate, with the swelling of the edges, I wouldn't be able to take. I'd be replacing that floor over and over.
In fact, I was just (two weeks ago) looking at some rental properties - all of them had laminate. Every single suite - every one. In two buildings (one of 16 doors, one of 12) had warping of the boards due to water spilling, or not cleaning properly.
And - I wouldn't ever suggest click LVP unless I really didn't like you. ;)
GR Flooring vinyl don’t warp? I heard some laminates are waterproof like www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/quickstep-impressive-laminate?gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRASEiwAENqAPlRu_bPNOKtjd9yFCTaEZRdmhrrj6GRQDb25K54AuOAsxKJ2owaa4xoChqIQAvD_BwE. Opinions? I have to decide between vinyl or laminate for a property I will rent out. This laminate is rated highly and costs 30% less than the vinyl the joiner is recommending. Opinions?
Nixon Chan great question...I’m seeing more and more laminate (Pergo Outlast+-for example) that claim to be water resistant/water proof. I have 4 Labradors ( I know🙄)- one is still a puppy and has accidents at times. Also a 4 year old. Spills happen. I’m told if cleaned within a few hours that it’s considered waterproof? LVP concerns me due to large dogs’ nails. Would love to hear back on this! Thx
is LVP toxic? I heard they cannot even make it in USA so it is all made overseas and possible it can off-gas in your home once installed?
Good morning! That is definitely a topic that does not get enough conversation!
First of all, yes - there are definitely LVP lines that are made in the USA. The reason that 99% (a guess) is made overseas is more to cheap labour than it is to environmental concerns.
That being said - the issue of products made overseas is that there may not be the same quality controls and thoughts to environmental friendliness. Not pointing any fingers - but we are talking about some parts of the world that for years was using lead in baby toys...
So the two questions that must be asked when choosing an LVP (or any product, as many flooring options are mostly made overseas).
1 - Does the product contain any phthalates?
2 - Do you have Floorscore or any other 3rd party testing.
The reason you don't want ANY phthalates in your floor (taken from google)
"Most vinyl flooring contains chemicals called phthalates, many of which have been banned from children's products over concerns of negative health effects. Phthalates are used to soften plastic and vinyl and make them more flexible. But they're believed to be toxic and have been linked to a laundry list of ailments."
Then, the Floorscore or other certifications helps make sure that the suppliers & manufacturers are not trying to bring over sub-part products.
Hopefully this helps, but you're right - you really have to look and and ask questions from any flooring company before you buy!
Not toxic. Depends on which you have
Do you recommend luxury vinyl in basement bedrooms?
You certainly can - the only real downside in my opinion is that it provides to insulation. So if the floor is currently cold - the LVP won't change that.
can you use vinyl planks over tile floors?
You can, as long as..
1 - The tile is well adhered and not broken
2 - You should use Floor Patch (Ardex Feather Finish is what we use) to float over the floor, to fill in the grout joints.
How do people tell the difference between vinyl and laminate flooring from pictures alone? Especially if the design is similar? Any tips and tricks?
Thanks for reaching out, Alex. Unfortunately, there is no way to visually tell the two apart in a picture.
Hello. My question for you is what actually happens physically to laminate when liquid sits too long on the boards? Does it get bubbles along the edges of the board or what ?
Great question! If the water is on top of the boards - then nothing. The actual surface is pretty waterproof.
The issues arises that it never stays on the top, it will get to the edge. And the edges will allow the water/moisture to seep into the core or even under the floor itself.
So when the edges get moisture/water - then the boards swell. The floor will cup.
I’d be happy to send you some images if you’d like. Can show what the after effect is.
GR Flooring how long does the water have to sit generally to start warping the laminate? We have lvp in our current home and we are moving and unfortunately the builder only has three grey options, we are going with the laminate because of the warm woods offered. I am worried about how the laminate will handle and accidental glass of water dropping on the ground.
@@33ttpat10 You have the time between when the water hits the floor, and when it's not there anymore to wipe it up. Don't sweat if it's on the floor for 10sec while you grab a towel, but don't let a puddle sit from washing dishes for an hour every couple days.
Thank you for this! Very helpful.
Stairs and bathroom advice would be of interest to me.
Thank you great information in this video. One question. In a basement application, do you recommend putting LV directly on the slab or on a subfloor? I am not worried about cold floors, more comfort when walking. I have limited height in my basement. Water has been an issue 2x in the past 23 years, impacting about 25% of the floors.
Thank you,
Yes - as long as you don’t mind the fact that it won’t add any insulation to the floor. You will be fine.
If the floor moves / cracks - you can lift out the floor, fix the concrete or wood, and reinstall.
Is vinyl 100% plastic and is laminate a wood base made from MDF with plastic laminated on top?
The vinyl is usually a virgin vinyl (not recycled) with a print of wood or tile and then a finish (of more vinyl) on top. The Loose Lay versions have emulsified fiberglass in the core to give it stability.
Laminates are usually a High Density Fiberboard (HDF) with a print of wood or tile, and then a finish (usually aluminum oxide). This finish is more scratch resistant than the vinyl on the LVP, but not as flexible.
which of these shrinks and swells with humidity changes??
Deek 44 it is the laminate that is affected by the changes in humidity. There are some laminates that are affected less - but luxury vinyl plank is not affected at all by moisture.
@@GRFlooring Thank You, I will install luxury vinyl in my sun porch...had a lot of trouble with regular prego from the season changes.
Ahhhh, just to be sure - is it protected from the elements (as in completely closed in) or is it exposed??
@@GRFlooring It's in an enclosed porch, but unheated and not cooled in summer...gets hot and gets very cold in winter.
Well, I personally would have no problem using a 5mm Loose Lay product in there.
But even with the stability, it still is plastic, so it will expand during the summer and shrink during the winter. So just keep that in mind - it will still move.
It’s just that unlike laminate, the floor won’t get wrecked. It will still be fine.
very good explanation
Thank you!
How can you tell what kind of floor you have ? Laminate, LVP or something else. I still can’t tell by watching videos. Or how can you tell if they are sealed
Good morning! We carry all types of flooring - hardwood, laminate, carpet, tile, vinyl plank - anything to do with flooring.
By sealed - do you mean waterproof? Or stain resistant?
@@GRFlooring I didn’t know there was a stain resistant too. I meant waterproof but is there a way to tell if they are waterproof and/or stain resistant?
I want to turn my attached garage into a work out room. We do not park our truck in there, but the next owner may, so what would you recommend for a nice looking alternative to the concrete floor we stare at now??
5mm LVP. Glued down - and use PL subfloor adhesive on the edge to the overhead door.
One of the salespeople here have had it in theirs for the last 7 years. And every spring they use a pressure washer to clean - works great!
@@GRFlooring : Are they also parking on it?? Thank you very much for your help.
Does the floor have to be even. What if there is a slope?
Good morning,
It dosen't really have to be even - just flat. Any unevenness would of course still be there, but won't effect the floor.
Flatness is usually required to be within 3/8" or less over a 8' span.
Hi great video,
What about health hazards of both due to Formaldehyde in Laminates and Phthalates in LVPs?
Thank you!
You are very correct - this is (in my opinion) a ticking time bomb in the flooring industry... One of the downsides to this 'Race to the Bottom Price' that so many products are experiencing is causing/effecting suppliers to use more and more fillers and whatever else that's really bad!
Here's a link that I like about Phalates. www.ecocenter.org/healthy-stuff/reports/vinyl-floor-tiles/flooring_recommendations
Basically it really comes down to the store/supplier/mfg - holding the line on quality. Not only is recycled cored luxury vinyl less stable than virgin (basically moves more when exposed to changes in temperature), it's also very much more possible to have phalates. That's why all of our suppliers are A - reputable companies who aren't just stamping whatever on their boxes, they also are B - confirming that their products meet and or exceed requirements! (in LVP - that means phalate free).
I have an old friend who's a chemist, and have asked him in the past if there was a simple/inexpensive test that we could perform on our products before we allowed them in our warehouse. Unfortunately at this point, he tells me that it's pretty far beyond the reach of a simple flooring company. So we are reliant on our suppliers to hold the mfg to task. And I'm pretty confident that they are doing so.
That being said - I would LOVE to be able to do this as a standard test on every vinyl floor that we get (same as we do a moisture test on all hardwood flooring) to be 100% safe.
So read, ask questions and be safe!
Well Said Young Man, Thanks!
My pleasure!
Very informative, thank you
Thank you for the kind words!
The con is that installers in my area want area want to make $3-4 a foot profit for the plank itself and the $2.50 a foot to install it.....
Where do you live? I don’t even charge that for tile. Which takes more prep work and skill
It’s so hard to decide
Nyc Butterfly Braids Hair Story Podcast It is not hard to decide. Stay away from laminate. Things go bad quick with it. Water is always a bad idea with wood. Especially wood composite. I only use luxury vinyl click or glue down.
Will the peel and stick vinyl work well on in floor radiant heat?
No it will not, the stick down does not hold up in damp areas either. I worked for a high volume turn over apartment complex with over 1000 apartment buildings. The company had us installing that stick down vinyl knowing that within the year we would be required to replace. Then again section 8 housing does not get good products at least that was how it was in the early 1990s. Use a tile or product designed for both radiant heat from either electric floor heating or hydronic heating. You want a material that will hold and spread or radiate the heat evenly.
Very true - there have been many new types of peel and stick over the years, but the adhesive does have a lot of limitations.
And most of the testing that we’ve done - shows that it dosen’t stick overly well in wet areas either.
We just installed laminate in our kitchen. Im prayin hard daily for no leaks, & Im on constant lookout for any fresh spills. I woulda loved the vinyl floor, but can scratch easily. So, why dont they put out a flooring to combine the sturdy laminate, with the core of the vinyl for the moisture resistance?? Do they even make that product? If not, it would be a fantastic idea! Best of both worlds, & would draw SO many consumers! If they made that, I would do my whole house in it.
Ummmm didn’t mention if the Looselay was water resistant/proof ...!
Sorry for that confusion.
The loose lay, being a vinyl product, would have the same great water resistance as all other vinyl flooring options. Keep in mind that, depending on the amount of water, your subfloor may still be affected.
Good catch! Thanks for pointing that out.
@@GRFlooring ty for the reply...!
How do you install glue down laminate in the vicinity of a hearth? A stone hearth will take most of the heat from a fireplace, but I’d assume the adjacent laminate would be at least 95 degrees.
Installing almost anything (short of tile, stone, etc) all depends on the fireplace.
Each fireplace will have a zone where you cannot have any combustible material within that area. Usually in our part of the world, that’s where you use a hearth. As long as it’s the correct dimensions - you can go right up to it with anything, and it won’t get too warm to cause any problems.
The newer fireplaces are usually zero clearance - which means that you can go right up to it.
So, you will need to find out what the clearance zone is before you start installing any flooring there.
My kitchen floor is old sheet vinyl. I want to replace with vinyl tiles or planks. Currently my kitchen floor seems uneven and it squeeks and creeks. What could be causing this and can I put new vinyl flooring on top of this existing uneven, squeeking floor? If not how do you fix?
How old is the home - and do you know what subfloor is currently under the sheet vinyl?
@@GRFlooring townhouse is 25 yrs old and no clue what's under floor
Your best bet would be to remove the floor and subfloor - and install new. The squeaks might possibly be fixed with deck screws, but to fix the unevenness - unfortunately you are stuck with removal and reinstallation.
@@GRFlooring thanks
Holy sh**, I thought it was a pastor talking about the pros and cons of flooring too.
Times are tough, even the holy ones got to hussle I see.
Loooool..love your sense of humour!
What about waterproof laminate?
Good morning!
So far, our tests of waterproof laminate have shown us that it really isn't.
That being said - I do have another product that a manufacturer has requested testing, so I will be doing a video on that (as soon as we get time to do it!)
You sir....are a badass. Thank you!
No problem!
incorrect on vinyl top layer. Vinyls have a wear layer on top made of aluminum oxide, acrylic, or other material.
Some manufacturers use Aluminum Oxide, others use Ceramic Beads - and more. But they all still use the mil thickness for their durability rating. Those are additives that are meant to help...
@@GRFlooring yes, but there are many with 30, even 50ml wear layers. Examples are Supercore and Modin which are darned near indestructible
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
If the glue on the vinyl plank comes apart at 95 degrees does the floor fall apart on hot summer days?
Thanks for the great question. One of the advantages of Loose Lay is that the product doesn’t require glue. If you have a 2 or 3mm (that doesn’t have the fiberglass stabilization layer), you will have some movement and warping. The 5mm loose lay, however, will not be a problem as when it gets warm, the glue releases BUT when it cools down, the glue will grab again.
LVP all the way
Thanks for this!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the info. ✌🏼
Our pleasure! Thank you for watching.
great video. 👍
Thank you!
Aren't "Luxury" and "Vinyl" sort of mutually exclusive words?
Using the adjective “luxury” in this case is likely to differentiate from the early iterations of vinyl flooring, as construction and designs have both evolved quite a bit, even in recent years. We don’t specialize in etymology, though, so we just use the words the industry uses. Likely not the answer you’re looking for but it’s the best we can do.
Hope that clarifies things a little and thanks for watching.