Casting a perfect miniature with blue stuff
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- How to cast an almost perfect copy of a miniature with blue stuff and milliput.
You don’t need to mess around with liquids. It requires only a few minutes to create a copy and then only 4 hours to dry.
All the materials are pretty inexpensive.
I like the idea of building a box for the mold support. Good Idea for the clamps to press the mold together. However, some things you might consider to create a better finished product. Pour channels. I know you're not pouring anything, but they will give you room for the excess putty. Mold alignment pins. Just push a stick into the bottom half around the part to create holes that the top half will fill when pressed in. The resulting 'pins' will help keep the two soft halves in alignment. Also, consider smoothing out the material on the bottom half before pressing the top down. Part of the reason they are hard to separate after cooling is the rough surface texture of the bottom layer. Finally, allow the blue stuff to cool longer, or even put the mold in the refrigerator to speed the cooling. You got a lot of your distortion from pulling the mold apart while the blue stuff was still soft in the center.
Finally the music. Are we watching a diaper commercial?
don´t mind me, i just want to save this ,Thanks for all this tips
If you carve/cut small lines leading away from your model, the excess putty wont disrupt the mold, it will be pushed into the spew lines.
I use toothpicks to do this
Awesome tip thx
Thank you for sharing this! :)
thanks for tip
Pro tip. Before you press in your second blob of blue stuff, use a pen or rod to press some dimples in the area around the part. Then when you press in the second part of the blue stuff it will fill in those dimples. This will create registration points for the two halves to lock into so that your two mold halves will line up better.
And also let the first layer/half of blue stuff/mould harden up before adding the 2nd half/layer of hot/readied blue stuff right?
@@solodragun correct, My first try was hard to peel apart.
thanks for pro tip
Just use Lego for the mound frame
Thats what i do. Gives you much better flexibility on the size and shape and also means removing the mold is easy.
@@camy252camy3 i don't think you really need a frame for this stuff
I came to the comments just to say this. Have made hundreds of molds using legos.
@@stevehoff lego setup still going strong but I'm not really happy with the miliput standard. Is there a better alternative?
@@camy252camy3 try greenstuff, it's what most people use for miniatures :)
honestly this is the best method i have seen so far to make GOOD molds from blue stuff, great job and thank you for the idea! i will try it this weekend
That music, that dam music 🥹
This is the best video for learning how to make the best blue stuff molds.
I made a mess of one of my miniatures. Your frame is what I need. Thanks for showing this. I think I'm going to make a few from masonite, just picked up some clamps.
@Chopsy The Homicidal Maniac Yeah, I raided my daughters abundance of legos and made a nice frame, now I just need more Blue Stuff.
Awesome job! This is probably the best video i've seen on making 2 part molds with Blue Stuff/Oyumaru. I'm not 100% convinced Blue stuff is any different than Oyu. I've used both and if I didn't know any better I would say they are chemically the same. Except for the fact that Green Stuff does a better job of not sticking to surfaced. Still a great produce!
Thank you for a very encouraging video for me to have a go. And by it not turning out exactly perfect it demonstrated some pitfalls newcomers should watch out for. Very useful additional comments on here too.
And they were right about the music 😉
Lego base and blocks work good for the mold edging too. If you have enough blocks you can make a lid press that fits like a glove too I only recently starting casting bits like this but its pretty simple. First few I made i didnt use any oil or lego blocks and a bit too much epoxy but the bits came out great once cleaned up. Each bit from their has gotten better and better. I mainly just make extra purity seals and other tiny bits that you usually only get a few of per kit. Decking out all my units like a mad man~
I am 5 years late, but thanks for the demo.
Along with the comments, this upload is very helpful.
wonderful, one of the BETTER instructional video's. Just what I needed. THANK YOU!
Ya I have done this process a few times and Legos works best for building a frame.
Matthew Walker and do u still use a clamp ?
Bro, add a notch to any side of the box interior and you can match the halves up easier latter. Could label your molds while still hot also if your gonna make a master caste to re-use.
34 minutes of that music will drive everyone bonkers 🥴
you re welcome ;)
Wish I could hear what you're saying, the music is too loud and made me freaking mental...other than that, a good video.
Yeah why dont you play some cool music. This shit sounds like a commercial for Betty Crocker
And edit your video so we dont have to waste a bunch of time watching you knead the dough and shit like that
@@jrmatthee111 You can skip ahead bruh
I just have a bowl of ice water handy. I dip the bottom half of the mold in it for a minute so it hardens completely, before I smash the top half on to it. Then I dip the whole thing in ice water. This way I do not have to use any oil, or wait any more than one minute, and best of all the two parts separate quite easily because they never melted together.
The most difficult part for me is trying to press the object exactly halfway into the bottom mold. I get sloppy results if I press it too deep. I like the tip EpicSpire gave, which is putting sprue lines around the object for overflow drainage, but it’s also quite easy to remove the top half after the first smashing, and scrape out extra putty, so it will have just the right amount on second pressing (then put weight on it and let it sit for hours).
The music is so amazing you should make it louder next time
😀
Could the box made out of Lego instead of wood ?
just curious ... I read that you can thin milliput with isopropanol or methylated spirit. Maybe this makes it easier to cast it?
Um, I really do not understand why you cant let the the bottom layer of blue stuff harden up before you apply the other half of a new layer of hot blue stuff? Seems like this would make a much more easily seperatable mould?
Contact with hot glue stuff slightly reactivates the cool part
Awesome n helpfull video but The music's so loud/speaking too quiet that on occasions its hard to make sense. But anyways, great video! :)
HAH! As much as GW charges? Nah, make all the molds you want!!
Yeah I also thinks that it can go cheapper this way than actually buying GW model :)
I use small lego bricks on a lego base for making the surrounds...its easier and faster and re usable
How precise are the parts, are they as precise as making them using silicone and resin?
Still a fantastic video !!
Nice tutorial, I see people filling both sides of the mold with milliput as you did but also people filling only 1 side, what difference does it make? I need to cast some shields of which I don't really care about the back part, should I only fill the front side?
Good ideas. Music too loud to hear you speak.
Mold shell with lego blocks then it lines up really nicely
Hello. Have you tried to replace miliput with acetone melted GW sprues? They seem to have simillar properties: they are like plastiscine but they harden.
Blue stuff is plastic, too. I woul fear it reacts with the sprue goo
Wow what overkill. I'm surprised you didn't put it in a vacuum chamber
A vacuum chamber is a bit tricky to make, or expensive to buy. I think this method is a step above the normal quick method of just squeezing the two halves together by hand, but nowhere near as difficult as setting up a vacuum chamber.
great video mate very interesting thanks
Thinking about getting a deff dread sprue, and using this method to make more deff dreads, and killa kahns.
im doing this but for carnifexes.
Each to their own, but would a dusting of talcum powder be cheaper and less messy than oil?
before the end i had to stop as the music was so annoying i'm afraid
You're missing the registration keys on the first part. I'm not sure if the wooden box is needed
Take heart. All the negative comments about the music is a reaction from the constant droning of the background notes repeated over and over and over again - it gets irritating because we actually find your information very useful but we are having a bit of a hard time fighting to hear your tutorial. This is because even with 3D printers and such, miniatures are still very pricey for those wishing to get into tabletop gaming and other things. It would be nice if you can neutralize this mishap since this information is useful, not only for hobbyist but also for the younger generation that are looking to explore their own creativity in the future. Look at it this way, even big movie producers have to vet, correct and reshoot their movies to gauge positive reactions for their movies. If I can hazard a request, try not to use fast forward in the videos. A lot of tutorials do use fast forward to show how things are made, but for a regular viewer who wants to follow along, the fast forward bit works just as bad as the music since frankly it sucks. The human brain can only process so much information while watching as well as also trying to understand what is going on. Not a lot of content providers understand this, that watching a fast forward video will leave the viewer subconsciously agitated, vexed, and negative. This is because viewers do come back and try to rewatch what they see, but knowing that they will have to go back to watching a video again that is difficult to watch because they have to struggle to see and hear, it will just leave them frustrated and looking for someone to blame. So take heart, you left a good video that everyone can use to explore their creativity but it gets a negative reaction because of the background music, and for me the fast forwarding bit because I usually try to follow along but it does gets hard to see the action when everything is moving too fast - maybe cut scenes would be better because those fast forwarded parts can be left up to the viewer's imagination.
really nice tutorial thanks man it will help me a lot ;)
Great :) I am gonna make a lot of additional weapons with this :D
good video get to the point tho, you talked about that piece of wood for like 5 minutes^^
Hello. Very nice, but what if my miniature (pilot 1/72) is bigger than original? I used milliput terracotta (I thought this only a color issue) maybe this the reason? Thanks.
What was that oil you said to use? Cause I'm having a devil of a time getting the pieces I want to make to mold well. And getting the mold apart is one of the frustrations. The other issue being sharp edges of the piece cutting through the mold when I press it all together.
I'm using some standard kitchen oil. It helps when separating the parts. For you first issue, may be the blue stuff is not hot enough. When it's rather cold then it is not really formable. And the second issue you might solve by using more blue stuff.
you've made using Blue Stuff look so hard,just heat,mold around the object BY HAND,then cover with second part,and press to make the mold ,making sure to get into all the recesses job done,no boxes,no waiting for glue to dryand bloody quicker than this video
How strong are the miliput copies?
You can drop them, no problem 👍🏻
This is a good question. I would expect Milliput to be too brittle/fragile. I would definitely expect some parts to break very easily. Perhaps I am wrong?
The strongest epoxy putty I have found is JB Weld Steel Stik, which is a super-strong material, but it's a little bit expensive and the working time is extremely short - like 2 minutes - then it becomes too tough to work at all. Also, there is a chemical reaction and it heats up - MUST wear gloves! It's too difficult to work with, but perhaps I will find a use for it one day.
You like wast your time. First, with a blue stuff is useless apply release agent because it detach itself. Second, it is superfluous make a containing box to build a mould with a blue stuff. Third, you forget to make the key points to join perfectly the two half moulds together. And last, use water to manage and join well the milliput pieces. Regards, 😄
I really like the video. I have been searching for a economical alternative to resin casting. One question for you tho...did you consider using LEGO to make the frame - its cheap, causes no frustration building, and is easy as heck. Thanks for the really thorough video.
Distilled Facts I’m afraid LEGO won’t stand the pressure applied by the clamps. Here pressure is key
Distilled Facts you can use Lego for the walls of your mould can but you have to glue it together to stop it popping apart also I find putting blue stuff in a jug of water then microwaving it works really well for making sure all of it is the same temperature and silicon grease works really well as a separation agent hope this is of some help
Thanks Rick, I'll try to glue them together. My son has lots so I'm sure he won't miss any. Tc
hope it works for you but i feel guilty now as your son probably wont thank me , i used super glue but hot glue may work and you may be able to remove it so your son doesn't kill me lol
No real nead to use a mould box, use alignment dimples and firm hand pressure and the parts come out fine provided you push the epoxy into the reccesses and don't overfill
overkill , you can just use blue stuff and the molds are fine
@@VeluBeru His is the most legit ive seen so far
I notice letting the milliput dry a little before moulding
Will epoxy adhesive/ glue/ liquid resin stick to the blue stuff?
From what I can tell the epoxy won't stick
to ensure it you could use some separator spray before putting the epoxy in. I used some kitchen oil 😉
@@Tuiscon Thanks. I'll try it out.
very informative but please remove the music as I have trouble hearing your voice over.
Alroofador I thought it would be soothing but yeah you might be right. But can’t change now, it’s in the video.
i wonder if liquit resin works for this mould, since they tend to heat up abit when curing
From what I've heard, the heat caused by the chemical reaction of the resin curing starts melting the blue stuff so you lose detail. If you do try it, make sure you have sprues added so the air can escape.
Quick question about the milliput, weight wise would i weigh the bit to get the amount of milliput I should use?
its damn light, you would need a very fine scale to measure that. I go with the eye ball method.
Too much nonsense. Just get to the point.
can you mold a whole minature in one time?
Yes, but it depends on the model/pose. Try it out, if it does not work simply make a larger mold for all the pieces.
@@Sgt40K sweet ill give it a shot thanks :)
what i thought, just get the mold of the entire sprue, ez , you have everything to enjoy getting that out of the sprue , like a normal kit, you can save the bits for another time (like the lychguard where you can make 10 models if you had 5 torsos more
I liked this. Using clamp pressure has got to help detail. Lose the music though......please.
make the box with lego it easier and faster
i've been casting for a while now but have a lot of problems with flash ruining some of the detail (i'm trying to cast small parts like heads with a lot of tiny details). How Do I fix this?
a m be careful of where you're putting your mold lines. Try putting the face in where most of the detail is actually in the mold and not on the sides.
a m for heads I do single mould one piece moulds just make a new nub from the spare Milliput. Use water to wet your hands and smooth
ty for the video :) (Pteranadon from discord)
how many can you make out of one bot of milliput?
Depends on the size of the model, but like 20 standard size models
is there any material that are like plastic i can use for this?
As far as I know, no. Everything is going to be a resin type material. If you find something, let us know.
Bro. You are making it way more complicated than it needs to be
I‘m a German may be that explains it a bit
What is the blue stuff ???
Blue Stuff. :-)
That's literally what it is called. Sold by Green Stuff World. I've heard that cool-melt glue sticks work too, which I have not tried myself, but I'm going to try it tomorrow.
Don't need all this messaging about with blue stuff
Hard to hear over the music 😐
I'm sorry but you said ummmmm so much... you rambled on for a long time, spent three minutes talking about the frame.
3:29, thats all the lod music i can stand, good bye.
How do you stick putty together? When youbmake more than one piece
Try using furniture polish as a releasing agent ....it's got bees wax in ....better than oil ....just saying!
With Blue stuff you don't need a release agent. The material doesn't stick to ANYTHING. Except maybe clothes? I've used it many times and have never found it to stick to anything; Mini, surface, fingers, etc.
Rob's Hobbys in this video, he made both halves before at the same time, so the 1st half was still soft. The halves would have bonded together as they dried.
I just wait for the 1st half to dry/harden, then I make the top half.
Please don’t use music it destroyed the video
But still, great video thank you!
Loose the background music. It interferes with your voice.
More muttering and repetitive kids show music please
stop whispering
Ok
Um what I'm um doing is um using um blue stuff um and um milliput um. And um I am um um going to um make this um.