I'm afraid I'm with the 'it's not an anti backlash nut' brigade, the word anti means preventing, your nut isn't preventing anything, it's simply stopped it happening for the time being. Not that it's bad what you have done, I think it's fantastic. If you search for an 'anti' you will find its a very specific 2 piece device with springs in the middle pushing it apart. I like what you've done here, a self lubricating interference 'nut' and a tap made from the leadscrew without wrecking it, brilliant! I'm going to use this method to get rid of the backlash in my crossfeed screw, thank you. Oh yes, and another thank you for not talking to camera for half the video like far too many do on YT!
I hope you’re doing well! I have a couple of ideas for an auto disengaging lead screw nut that I’d like to share with you. Segmented Nut Design: This would involve the nut being split into 2 or 4 pieces, held together by a spring. When the screw hits a stop, a spreader cone would disengage the nut. Cone-Shaped Ramp Nut: In this idea, a cone-shaped ramp nut could be positioned at the end of the shaft or along it with a jam nut. A spring-loaded half nut would then roll up onto the ramp to disengage. I think both concepts could offer some interesting functionality. Let me know your thoughts, and if you’d like to chat further! Best, Dean
For all the effort, this is just a 'zero backlash' nut when manufactured. An 'anti backlash' nut has to compensate for the backlash that creeps in over use. And I don't see this happening in this.
@@davemwangi05 you can eliminate backlash by using a split nut in which one internal thread contacts the left flank of the external thread, and in which the other part of the nut contacts the right flank of the thread. Over time and during wear, you need to adjust the gap in the nut to get the threads touching both left and right again. Alternatively you can mount a second nut on the thread which can be adjusted tight into or away from the other nut to force one side to contact for each nut.
@@derrytoolsltd991 I've seen only those using a spring to actively control that gap. What do you think about the idea of using a spring to keep the gap versus your idea of always coming back to adjust the gap manually? which one is better?
Looking at the last few frames of your video I see that you left a slit in the delrin bushing, allowing it to be tightened by shimming in future. I think that subtle feature was missed by many people. It's a very good solution for your application. I manufactured delrin bushings in-situ a year or so ago by pouring fine delrin shavings into the gap between a 1/2" bolt and a 1" ID steel tube each side of a nosewheel leg support and then melted it in place by heating the steel tube with a propane torch and then tamping it down. After 4 or 5 repeats I had a pair of 3" long, hard, low-friction bushings cast into place that are a perfect fit and will last for a great many years. I fly that aircraft often. The pair of delrin-bushed bearings comprise the main pivot for the folding gear leg. This is not an ultralight or powered kite either - this is a heavy little 2-place airplane and that pair of delrin bushings takes all the landing loads on the nose leg without deforming. The inside of the steel tubing still has the seam where it was formed and the delrin molded perfectly around those deformations, thus locking it into place, so that only the pivot bolt turns and not the bushing.
@@MaxMakerChannel Meaning it is, at present, a zero backlash nut. After a few thousand cycles, guess what? Backlash will start creeping in. This is NOT an anti-backlash nut.
@@fbloggs Bwahahahah! Necrothread much in your spare time? Responding to two year old post. Funny stuff there! And by the way, he could have made an ACTUAL anti-backlash nut very easily by merely making the split nut AS a split nut, screwed together like a clamshell with a bit of space between allowing tightening to zero... over and over again instead of playing pyromaniac with torches and gobs of melted plastic. Bwahahahaah!
Yes, but the principal can be used to make it anti backlash... cut it into two and spring load the two halves together. Other solutions are also available.
Well... That seemed a bit pointless.. If you were going to cut into an acme rod anyway, why didn't you just cut out four slots, and then use the lathe to cut a taper to create a tap? Then you could have produced the same part, without the need to introduce weak points, fissures, and voids in the nut? Seems like a lot less work
If using a nut made of something other than metal was a viable option the manufactures would have jumped on it. It would only take a small amount of force to distort the thread in the plastic nut.
Nice... though I'm thinking as an alternative you could make a mold around the lead screw and use a resin similar to what is used in skateboard wheels.. then turn it. either way... that's pretty cool. thanks for sharing
+Max Musterman - the resin used in skateboard wheels is tough, durable easily molded. It's also used for many track systems, even roller coasters, camera dollies etc. It also comes in just about every color one can imagine. all types of hardness, etc. that and it was the first thing that came to mind. heh heh. But rather than melt it on. you could pour the resin. Any flavor you like... and get a sure fit. Just spray with a release agent and breaks free. Instant lead nut. You could even mold in mount screws if you had a jig set up. Of course this is all theory... I haven't tried it. But after seeing your video.. it sure seems plausible. Sounds plausible saying it out loud... seems possible thinking it over... what's your thought? You think it would work?
+chase Alright. Never came into contact with skateboards, but they look quite slippery. I always wanted to do a mold making project, so I think Ill might give this a try. Also got another build video planned with a linear actuator where I need a new nut.
+Andres Valdes That turns the screw into a tap. The slots cut the thread. You melt around the plain end and then turn the screw to the other end where you refine the thread by cutting it.
+C AZEVEDO Thanks, but I was not the first to have it. Apparently this was in a magazine a few years ago. I was only the first to make a video about it.
I really like your video. I want to make this anti-backlash nut for my metal lathe. I'm wondering where you get your POM (polyoxymethylene) for cheap. I found a place online with a 50mm(2") rod - 100mm(4") long for $200 USD! Thank you for any help. Also why do you cut the lead screw at the beginning of the video? I see that you show a tap by its side.
I found this rediculous amount at: www.goodfellow.com/catalogue/GFCat4I.php?ewd_token=ihnI1aLJ6EXFnv2OKOkpjYHTqkiOON&n=A96KRhswVf4z6bcwLzd4OfXdRWIomB&ewd_urlNo=GFCat411&Catite=OX317950&CatSearNum=1. I found a much more reasonable price on ebay 12" of 1.5" rod for $9. Thank you. I'm wondering why you cut the lead screw at the beginning of the video?
Great implementation, but have I missed something? Have you just made a long close-fitting nut, or is there some actual backlash adjustment there? Is there any backlash at all in this nut? I love the shortness & relevance of your video.
+Mark Smith When the nut cools down it shrinks around the lead screw and is in contact with both sides of the thread. I measured the backlash with a dial indicator and there is none recognisable.
Right, but that's technically not an anti-backlash nut, it's just a close fitting nut. It will wear and then backlash will emerge. An anti-backlash nut has a mechanism (typically a spring) that forces the nut to expand to take up the lash as it wears ...hence it's name. Tight nut =/= Anti-backlash nut.
+stoparret I know. We had this argument a while back. For an industrial machine this would not be good, but for my homemade CNC it lasted for 3 years now with no signs of wear. And if it does, I can make another set in an afternoon for little money. I saved the money over ballscrews which would have been a lot, because my leadscrews are 2m long.
Hi, really like this take on making anti backlash nuts. Maybe a bit off-topic but I see that you use these on what seems to be quite a large format cnc router? Are you happy enough with the speed and precision these standard trapezoidal lead screws provide? No whipping on the long axis?
No real anti-backlash mechanism and being made from plastic should last only a few weeks before wear is a problem. Why not just buy a real anti-backlash nut or if you don't want to pay then 3D print one that would be just as good (you can adjust the thread to give minimum tolerance) and would probably last just as long plus if it wears you can just print another.
Max Maker that would help....im a beginner toetal work and trying to build a wood cutting CNC...so once I seen all the equipment I realized I wasn't able to do that as easily. However, I'm curious what material you used for this?
I used POM, also known as Delrin. I did this before without the lathe. Looked like shit but it works. You can make the nut like in the video and keep it raw. Then you mount it to the CNC and fill the gap with polymorph or 2k epoxy putty.
Max Maker I'll look into that, I originally thought of using threaded rod, with two nuts, slightly separated, so it tightens up the "play". Any suggestions on if that would work better/worse? I'm currently in the process of researching and (pre)troubleshooting for my build over the next year or so.
Well, threaded rod works but its not that great. Really depends on your budget. My CNC cost 2500€ and it payed for itself by making prototypes with it.
Max Maker sorry but anti backlash means that there's some kind of mechanism that eliminate the slops by tensioning the threads of the nut. Maybe your nut has little backlash but it won't be completely eliminated
Paolo anti backlash means there is no backlash. How it achieves that does not matter. I can put a dial indicator next to my cnc and there is no change in deflection when moving back and forth.
That's just a nut with a low amount of slop... not an anti-backlash nut... And over time, with wear it won't even be that anymore... it will just be a nut...
This is dreadful. You dont even have the axis of the nut's shaft to the faces you have cut (watch it wobble its way down the leadscrew at the end). Why didnt you just use a solid piece and then tap it rather than poorly try and backfill it after clamping it around the leadscrew. The whole thing is exactly the wrong way to go about making a leadscrew nut, and it isnt even a zero backlash nut, or backlash reducing nut. Its just a nut.
It has zero backlash. Love it or hate it, but since it is a slight interference fit it has no backlash. The CNC has been running for 8 years now without any issues or noticeable wear. You can watch it run in a few of my videos. Back then, ball screws were quite expensive, so this was an affordable alternative.
@@MaxMakerChannel It might have very little backlash, but it cannot have zero backlash. It also is not an 'interference fit' of any sort (interference fits do not and cannot move, otherwise it is not an interference fit). Firstly there is nothing in the design that accounts for slight variations in the manufacture of the lead screw - it will not be perfect and this is one of the ways that backlash creeps in and why backlash will not be constant across the whole of a leadscrew (the exception being if it is precision ground to a very high standard). Secondly unless you have something that will keep tension across the two pressure faces of a thread like a split nut or a ballscrew system the second there is any discrepancy between one of the pressure faces on screw and nut you have backlash. It sounds like you have a solution that works much better than the stock T8 nuts, and this is working for you which is good, but that doesnt make it what you suggest it is - Anti-backlash. If it works as you say it does then it is just a T8 nut that is a close fit.
Did you reelly ask it I could buy an anti-backlash nut from Amazon? Plus, you're discounting the amount of labor involved, raw materials (how much does POM go for, who are my primary and secondary vendors?), capital equipment and supplies, and G&A (did you make that in one take, without any planning or prep?).
Watching this video is enough Prep. The pom used costs maybe 3€. I don´t thinl there is a 16mm 2 Flute P8 metric lead screw anti backlash nut on amazon.
Hm. Yeah. Uh, mind telling me what special energy drink you took to beat the devil at the the speed you moved to get that thing made in 3 min? And where can I order some? Gotta step on it and build a white two-story, 5 bedroom, 3 and a half bath colonial, with walnut trimmings, bay window, wet bar, and a basement bolling alley in about 3 days because I got some old high school chums from outta town unavoidably coming over by Friday to visit and spend a few nights and all along I've been fudging a lil about what kind of pad of my own I stay in and...I don't want them to think I'm some tinhorn who's nothing but all talk. Currently I live in mom's crib.
+Max Maker Well yeah, I figured as much it was something healthy of super epic proportions by the way you moved, faster than the speed of sound, by about 3 or 4 machs. (Ever raced bullets shot out of machine guns? Give it a try. I'm sure the results will be that I don't think even Ripley will believe it!) C'mon, give! Where ya get 'em? Told yah my pals will be over by Friday and I don't want to look bad when they arrive. Oh the disgrace I'll be in if I don't get them pills in a hurry!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSZB0KA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01FSZB0KA&linkCode=as2&tag=maxmak05-20&linkId=0ea8cdedb2b96e9f681141a166a294c5 Three pills a day plus 5000 Units of Vitamin D and you are golden.
I'm afraid I'm with the 'it's not an anti backlash nut' brigade, the word anti means preventing, your nut isn't preventing anything, it's simply stopped it happening for the time being. Not that it's bad what you have done, I think it's fantastic. If you search for an 'anti' you will find its a very specific 2 piece device with springs in the middle pushing it apart. I like what you've done here, a self lubricating interference 'nut' and a tap made from the leadscrew without wrecking it, brilliant! I'm going to use this method to get rid of the backlash in my crossfeed screw, thank you. Oh yes, and another thank you for not talking to camera for half the video like far too many do on YT!
Thanks for directly go to the point and not waste 10 mins talking.
+Marcos Ledesma burelli Thats what I do. Thanks for subscribing!
Maybe a 10 second introduction at least. Found this video by accident and I'm pretty confused about what I'm watching.
I hope you’re doing well! I have a couple of ideas for an auto disengaging lead screw nut that I’d like to share with you.
Segmented Nut Design: This would involve the nut being split into 2 or 4 pieces, held together by a spring. When the screw hits a stop, a spreader cone would disengage the nut.
Cone-Shaped Ramp Nut: In this idea, a cone-shaped ramp nut could be positioned at the end of the shaft or along it with a jam nut. A spring-loaded half nut would then roll up onto the ramp to disengage.
I think both concepts could offer some interesting functionality. Let me know your thoughts, and if you’d like to chat further!
Best,
Dean
For all the effort, this is just a 'zero backlash' nut when manufactured. An 'anti backlash' nut has to compensate for the backlash that creeps in over use. And I don't see this happening in this.
how is does antiblacklash works? Actively how?
@@davemwangi05 you can eliminate backlash by using a split nut in which one internal thread contacts the left flank of the external thread, and in which the other part of the nut contacts the right flank of the thread. Over time and during wear, you need to adjust the gap in the nut to get the threads touching both left and right again. Alternatively you can mount a second nut on the thread which can be adjusted tight into or away from the other nut to force one side to contact for each nut.
@@derrytoolsltd991 I've seen only those using a spring to actively control that gap. What do you think about the idea of using a spring to keep the gap versus your idea of always coming back to adjust the gap manually? which one is better?
Looking at the last few frames of your video I see that you left a slit in the delrin bushing, allowing it to be tightened by shimming in future. I think that subtle feature was missed by many people. It's a very good solution for your application.
I manufactured delrin bushings in-situ a year or so ago by pouring fine delrin shavings into the gap between a 1/2" bolt and a 1" ID steel tube each side of a nosewheel leg support and then melted it in place by heating the steel tube with a propane torch and then tamping it down. After 4 or 5 repeats I had a pair of 3" long, hard, low-friction bushings cast into place that are a perfect fit and will last for a great many years. I fly that aircraft often. The pair of delrin-bushed bearings comprise the main pivot for the folding gear leg. This is not an ultralight or powered kite either - this is a heavy little 2-place airplane and that pair of delrin bushings takes all the landing loads on the nose leg without deforming. The inside of the steel tubing still has the seam where it was formed and the delrin molded perfectly around those deformations, thus locking it into place, so that only the pivot bolt turns and not the bushing.
"Lets Make - A Cheap Anti-Backlash Nut for Lead Screws" Meanwhile me sitting looking at amazon where AB nits are literally $1 next day delivery
I would never had thought of doing this!
As others have stated this is simply a nut no anti backlash feature. However it is a very clever idea.
I can measure no backlash, so there is no backlash.
@@MaxMakerChannel Meaning it is, at present, a zero backlash nut. After a few thousand cycles, guess what? Backlash will start creeping in. This is NOT an anti-backlash nut.
@@tvideo1189 who cares? make a couple of spares and simply swap it out in a few years or when it exhibits backlash again.
@@fbloggs Bwahahahah! Necrothread much in your spare time? Responding to two year old post. Funny stuff there! And by the way, he could have made an ACTUAL anti-backlash nut very easily by merely making the split nut AS a split nut, screwed together like a clamshell with a bit of space between allowing tightening to zero... over and over again instead of playing pyromaniac with torches and gobs of melted plastic. Bwahahahaah!
Amazing editing. Backlash nut is good too, ha.
+joshmnky Thank you!
Made this today from a HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) Plastic Rod. thanks for the very good idea.
+Chris Amarillo Does it work?
It looks oke, but i'll have to test it on the machine to know.
Anti backlash? This is NOT anti backlash unless your talking about the first time you use it.
Yes, but the principal can be used to make it anti backlash... cut it into two and spring load the two halves together. Other solutions are also available.
This is very clever, entertaining too! :)
Thank you!
That's a godd idea. How many time will it work without backlash ? Have a idea of the initial cleareance ?
+CNCFONTAINE There is no clearance. It works on my cnc since 2013.
Ok, cool !
nice work. that cough? from the smoke? haha.
+SES NINE What cough? I had the garage door open. The fumes are not great.
@@MaxMakerChannel you coughed like an elephant sniffing pollen. Hehehehe.
for those less studied in mechanics, molding and machining, who simply want to get into CNC or the like... maybe explain what you're doing and why?
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing it!
+Mark Lindsay Thank you! I hope people can use this information.
Very creative, not the direction I expected!
+EvilPlagueDoctor thanks!
dumpstercnc sells 1/2"-10 ACTIVE anti-backlash nuts for $18. This one here isn't really anti-backlash.
Nicely done - thanks for sharing! :)
Your welcome!
Good vid'. What plastic was used?
Thanks. It was POM or Delrin.
Well... That seemed a bit pointless..
If you were going to cut into an acme rod anyway, why didn't you just cut out four slots, and then use the lathe to cut a taper to create a tap? Then you could have produced the same part, without the need to introduce weak points, fissures, and voids in the nut?
Seems like a lot less work
This way it is a very tight fit.
This is cheap but there is no stiffness and hardness. Thread will be ground and cause much more backlash.
From what material
Did you made the nut?
you just got a new subscriber
Welcome! What do you make?
Could probably 3d print this with Igus delrin filament.
My salvation friend.....thanks for sharing
If using a nut made of something other than metal was a viable option the manufactures would have jumped on it. It would only take a small amount of force to distort the thread in the plastic nut.
My CNC is still running and very well : )
@@MaxMakerChannel , I can see it working and holding up on softer materials but not on steel or aluminum unless the cuts are really small.
Nice...
though I'm thinking as an alternative you could make a mold around the lead screw and use a resin similar to what is used in skateboard wheels.. then turn it.
either way... that's pretty cool.
thanks for sharing
+chase Thats a cool idea. Why skateboard wheels?
+Max Musterman - the resin used in skateboard wheels is tough, durable easily molded. It's also used for many track systems, even roller coasters, camera dollies etc. It also comes in just about every color one can imagine. all types of hardness, etc.
that and it was the first thing that came to mind. heh heh.
But rather than melt it on. you could pour the resin. Any flavor you like... and get a sure fit. Just spray with a release agent and breaks free. Instant lead nut.
You could even mold in mount screws if you had a jig set up.
Of course this is all theory... I haven't tried it. But after seeing your video.. it sure seems plausible. Sounds plausible saying it out loud... seems possible thinking it over...
what's your thought? You think it would work?
+chase Alright. Never came into contact with skateboards, but they look quite slippery. I always wanted to do a mold making project, so I think Ill might give this a try. Also got another build video planned with a linear actuator where I need a new nut.
+Max Musterman - So looking forward to the new vids.
Good thing I subscribed!
Thanks!
I spent weeks trying to make this work. Under load the plastic distorts so it looks like backlash.
Maybe make the nut much longer?
@@MaxMakerChannel I didn’t have the room nor torque for the added drag.
i really interested with your cnc machine, you should make a video about that machine
+Gissa Giswara Will do at some point!
Nice work. What kind of plastic is that? Acetal ?
+Machinist Nick Yes Acetal or POM.
What is the purpose of sawing the tip of the screw at the beginning?
Thank you very much!
+Andres Valdes That turns the screw into a tap. The slots cut the thread. You melt around the plain end and then turn the screw to the other end where you refine the thread by cutting it.
Thank you so much.
great idea !
+C AZEVEDO Thanks, but I was not the first to have it. Apparently this was in a magazine a few years ago. I was only the first to make a video about it.
You really shouldn't be heating POM with a blowtorch- it releases tons of formaldehyde when it decomposes
So much love
nice idea
+V1P3R'S lab thanks
I really like your video. I want to make this anti-backlash nut for my metal lathe. I'm wondering where you get your POM (polyoxymethylene) for cheap. I found a place online with a 50mm(2") rod - 100mm(4") long for $200 USD! Thank you for any help. Also why do you cut the lead screw at the beginning of the video? I see that you show a tap by its side.
David Rice That is crazy! I don't know where you live but in Europe you pay 10-15€/$ for that amount. I bought mine on ebay.
I found this rediculous amount at: www.goodfellow.com/catalogue/GFCat4I.php?ewd_token=ihnI1aLJ6EXFnv2OKOkpjYHTqkiOON&n=A96KRhswVf4z6bcwLzd4OfXdRWIomB&ewd_urlNo=GFCat411&Catite=OX317950&CatSearNum=1. I found a much more reasonable price on ebay 12" of 1.5" rod for $9. Thank you. I'm wondering why you cut the lead screw at the beginning of the video?
+David Rice The cuts create cutting edges just like in a tap and die.
Great implementation, but have I missed something? Have you just made a long close-fitting nut, or is there some actual backlash adjustment there? Is there any backlash at all in this nut?
I love the shortness & relevance of your video.
+Mark Smith When the nut cools down it shrinks around the lead screw and is in contact with both sides of the thread. I measured the backlash with a dial indicator and there is none recognisable.
Right, but that's technically not an anti-backlash nut, it's just a close fitting nut. It will wear and then backlash will emerge. An anti-backlash nut has a mechanism (typically a spring) that forces the nut to expand to take up the lash as it wears ...hence it's name. Tight nut =/= Anti-backlash nut.
+stoparret I know. We had this argument a while back. For an industrial machine this would not be good, but for my homemade CNC it lasted for 3 years now with no signs of wear. And if it does, I can make another set in an afternoon for little money. I saved the money over ballscrews which would have been a lot, because my leadscrews are 2m long.
+Marion Peretti I mill Aluminium with this.
When you inevitably get measurable backlash, can you reheat and shrink this nut back onto the threads or is it thermo set?
you should try some polymorth, mouldable in hot water so no need for flames & toxic fumes.
I thought about that and I use it in my other videos, but POM is better for long term wear.
Its handy stuff but yeah ive never used to anywhere that it would wear
+RabKirk I love that stuff. So many applications where it saves your day.
polymorph is not very hard-wearing.
Hi, really like this take on making anti backlash nuts. Maybe a bit off-topic but I see that you use these on what seems to be quite a large format cnc router? Are you happy enough with the speed and precision these standard trapezoidal lead screws provide? No whipping on the long axis?
+Niels Samuels very very happy. There is no whipping since the steppers don't go fast enough. I would chose a bigger lead screw though. 25mm over 16.
Good to hear! What size steppers and what drivers do you use? you now use 16x4 screws right?
+Niels Samuels yes 16x4. See the instructable.
No real anti-backlash mechanism and being made from plastic should last only a few weeks before wear is a problem. Why not just buy a real anti-backlash nut or if you don't want to pay then 3D print one that would be just as good (you can adjust the thread to give minimum tolerance) and would probably last just as long plus if it wears you can just print another.
This nut is still fine to this day.
Don't just tap it, taps can make a looser fit
Presisi tentunya.
Nice but it is of no use if it is not mentioned what wa added in the nut & melted . So that no back lash occures .
Fairly obvious that it was most likely the same material as the nut, POM.
POM creates formaldehyde gas(toxic as fuck) when heated. Hope you used mask while doing this.
+Tomasz Węsierski No mask but I did near the garage opening and mostly held my breath and breathed outside.
Muito bom. perfeito. Que material é esse? Teflon?
POM or Delrin
Max Maker Obrigado por responder.... Os gases são tóxicos ou não tem problema?
Ne pas fumer... I don´t speak portoguese. The fumes are not good.
Max Maker Ok amigo. obrigado...
Si Amigo. Joao Gilberto pefeito!
Tap FTW
How exactly is this an anti-backlash nut?
All surfaces of the nut touch the leadscrew. Since they are in contact, there is no backlash.
these are not anit-backlash nuts, they are just nuts...
They are
This would be great...if it was cheap to make. Not like I have milling equipment already...hense why I'm trying to make it.
I made this in my local maker space.
Max Maker that would help....im a beginner toetal work and trying to build a wood cutting CNC...so once I seen all the equipment I realized I wasn't able to do that as easily. However, I'm curious what material you used for this?
I used POM, also known as Delrin. I did this before without the lathe. Looked like shit but it works. You can make the nut like in the video and keep it raw. Then you mount it to the CNC and fill the gap with polymorph or 2k epoxy putty.
Max Maker I'll look into that, I originally thought of using threaded rod, with two nuts, slightly separated, so it tightens up the "play". Any suggestions on if that would work better/worse? I'm currently in the process of researching and (pre)troubleshooting for my build over the next year or so.
Well, threaded rod works but its not that great. Really depends on your budget. My CNC cost 2500€ and it payed for itself by making prototypes with it.
that's not anti backlash..
+Paolo Yes it is. There is no backlash.
Max Maker sorry but anti backlash means that there's some kind of mechanism that eliminate the slops by tensioning the threads of the nut. Maybe your nut has little backlash but it won't be completely eliminated
Paolo anti backlash means there is no backlash. How it achieves that does not matter. I can put a dial indicator next to my cnc and there is no change in deflection when moving back and forth.
Eventually there will be backlash when the nut wears.
+J Mc Eventually. I make these in 30min.
That's just a nut with a low amount of slop... not an anti-backlash nut... And over time, with wear it won't even be that anymore... it will just be a nut...
Hey whatever works
This is dreadful. You dont even have the axis of the nut's shaft to the faces you have cut (watch it wobble its way down the leadscrew at the end). Why didnt you just use a solid piece and then tap it rather than poorly try and backfill it after clamping it around the leadscrew. The whole thing is exactly the wrong way to go about making a leadscrew nut, and it isnt even a zero backlash nut, or backlash reducing nut. Its just a nut.
It has zero backlash. Love it or hate it, but since it is a slight interference fit it has no backlash. The CNC has been running for 8 years now without any issues or noticeable wear. You can watch it run in a few of my videos. Back then, ball screws were quite expensive, so this was an affordable alternative.
@@MaxMakerChannel It might have very little backlash, but it cannot have zero backlash. It also is not an 'interference fit' of any sort (interference fits do not and cannot move, otherwise it is not an interference fit). Firstly there is nothing in the design that accounts for slight variations in the manufacture of the lead screw - it will not be perfect and this is one of the ways that backlash creeps in and why backlash will not be constant across the whole of a leadscrew (the exception being if it is precision ground to a very high standard). Secondly unless you have something that will keep tension across the two pressure faces of a thread like a split nut or a ballscrew system the second there is any discrepancy between one of the pressure faces on screw and nut you have backlash.
It sounds like you have a solution that works much better than the stock T8 nuts, and this is working for you which is good, but that doesnt make it what you suggest it is - Anti-backlash. If it works as you say it does then it is just a T8 nut that is a close fit.
cheap with a lathe... come on!
+pachanoid Use polymorph to mould it in position on your cnc.
Very well done. However when you consider time, labor, materials, etc., is it cheaper and more sensible to buy something similar from Amazon?
Can you buy something like this on amazon? It takes me about 30min to make a blank and another 20min on the lathe.
Did you reelly ask it I could buy an anti-backlash nut from Amazon? Plus, you're discounting the amount of labor involved, raw materials (how much does POM go for, who are my primary and secondary vendors?), capital equipment and supplies, and G&A (did you make that in one take, without any planning or prep?).
Watching this video is enough Prep. The pom used costs maybe 3€. I don´t thinl there is a 16mm 2 Flute P8 metric lead screw anti backlash nut on amazon.
"Watching the video is enough prep," says all I need to know.
Cost in Canada to import these is basically $40 each and if you have 3 axis like myself wearing out 4-6 mo it starts making sense
durability went home 🧐
Still works : )
👍👍👏
Cheap???
subscribe? fuck yea
+gigi172 Thank you!
We didn't see it working ???? I think its RUBBISH
jajajaj cheap
Hm. Yeah. Uh, mind telling me what special energy drink you took to beat the devil at the the speed you moved to get that thing made in 3 min? And where can I order some? Gotta step on it and build a white two-story, 5 bedroom, 3 and a half bath colonial, with walnut trimmings, bay window, wet bar, and a basement bolling alley in about 3 days because I got some old high school chums from outta town unavoidably coming over by Friday to visit and spend a few nights and all along I've been fudging a lil about what kind of pad of my own I stay in and...I don't want them to think I'm some tinhorn who's nothing but all talk. Currently I live in mom's crib.
SwarthySkinnedOne No alcohol, no caffeine, no medication, but vitamins.
+Max Maker
Well yeah, I figured as much it was something healthy of super epic proportions by the way you moved, faster than the speed of sound, by about 3 or 4 machs. (Ever raced bullets shot out of machine guns? Give it a try. I'm sure the results will be that I don't think even Ripley will believe it!) C'mon, give! Where ya get 'em? Told yah my pals will be over by Friday and I don't want to look bad when they arrive. Oh the disgrace I'll be in if I don't get them pills in a hurry!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSZB0KA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01FSZB0KA&linkCode=as2&tag=maxmak05-20&linkId=0ea8cdedb2b96e9f681141a166a294c5
Three pills a day plus 5000 Units of Vitamin D and you are golden.
+Max Maker
Thanks! You're a pal.
But 5000 units o...!?.Ddeeeyam!!
+SwarthySkinnedOne You can hardly overdose on Vitamin D. Anything extra is flushed out.
Cheap? Worst name for vid.