Its best to solder wires to the rails from the outside. The reason is obvious: The deep flanges. If you solder outside there is no chance of the flanges derailing. Also, I use metal paper clips. I solder the wire to one end, drill the desired location hole, make a right angle bend on the paper clip and then solder the paper clip to the rails. The length of the paper clip extending below the layout allows easier and better wiring options.
Since my first introduction to model railroading was the 1980 Encyclopedia of Model Railroading, I was started in block electronics. While at the time I didn't have any railways, I planned many and enjoyed picking block sections. Then I got my first MR magazine and things changed forever. By the way, I had never thought of doing DCC blocks, but it is a spectacular idea. There is also an interesting thing at the end of the Encyclopedia: the first DCC system, Hornby's Zero 1, which, while far from the sound-equipped fleets of today, ran up to 16 silent locos.
Great how to video. Being an old school 'block man' I have my entire layout in blocks. One thing extra I do is not have a common rail to prevent any 'leakage' which does sometimes inexplicably happen. Keep up the good work
Yes it does. A bit more work but it ensures total isolation. Leakage will usually occur through a turnout, especially if you are using electrofrog Peco or similar.
I have never seen the clear insulating rail joiners before; just the orange ones sold by Atlas. If you don't have some already, a set of Needle Files come in handy for trackwork, rolling stock, & structures.
There is no major difference other then the black track being made from steel and the gray is made from something else, but yes, you could probably get electric blocks to work in this case.
Steel track can rust although If you're using them in a dry environment that usually isn't an issue, I've had bachmann black steel track for years and haven't had this issue.
Hey Harrison, First Off, instead of using those plastic insulated rail joints, I would use a Atlas snap saw and cut a 45° angle and use some Hot Glue to Hold into place! It's a Nice installment & Save A lot of time ripping out the track!!!! You can use a razor saw🪚or the Atlas snap saw. As Far as soldering, I would use a 25watt soldering iron then a High Watt Soldering Gun. Because it will melt the plastic ties! I Always solder to the outside of the Track and never inside the Track. Makes a Neater solder Too! Trust me on that!!!! Also, I Did notice a large Gap of the Track tie. I would use some HO Scale wooden tie with the small spike to Place it in. Makes it looks Better with the ties place in, without the large Gap!!!! Check out my advice!!!! 🚂🚃🚃🚃🚆🏍️💨📷🇺🇸
Its best to solder wires to the rails from the outside. The reason is obvious: The deep flanges. If you solder outside there is no chance of the flanges derailing. Also, I use metal paper clips. I solder the wire to one end, drill the desired location hole, make a right angle bend on the paper clip and then solder the paper clip to the rails. The length of the paper clip extending below the layout allows easier and better wiring options.
Since my first introduction to model railroading was the 1980 Encyclopedia of Model Railroading, I was started in block electronics. While at the time I didn't have any railways, I planned many and enjoyed picking block sections. Then I got my first MR magazine and things changed forever. By the way, I had never thought of doing DCC blocks, but it is a spectacular idea. There is also an interesting thing at the end of the Encyclopedia: the first DCC system, Hornby's Zero 1, which, while far from the sound-equipped fleets of today, ran up to 16 silent locos.
I usuallly solder the wire carefully to the outside to avoid flanges. Tinning the wire and cable is a good idea for sure :)
Great how to video. Being an old school 'block man' I have my entire layout in blocks. One thing extra I do is not have a common rail to prevent any 'leakage' which does sometimes inexplicably happen. Keep up the good work
Well I think it's a fantastic system however if you don't have a common rail doesn't that mean you need two wires to every block?
Yes it does. A bit more work but it ensures total isolation. Leakage will usually occur through a turnout, especially if you are using electrofrog Peco or similar.
Great how-to. It’s amazing what you can do with blocks. Can’t wait to see your expansion, where you’ll have to add more blocks. -Mark
Good job.
Installing plastic joiners in the tracks.
I have never seen the clear insulating rail joiners before; just the orange ones sold by Atlas. If you don't have some already, a set of Needle Files come in handy for trackwork, rolling stock, & structures.
Explained very well.
Extremely helpful, thanks 👍
Great video. It helped me a lot and answered my questions.
muy bien trabajo mi pana...para ser como decimos aquí un "chamín" trabajas muy bien...
if made a model train ho scale it would have 2 main tracks around the whole layout then you can run 2 trains easier
"Tin". Yea, outside rail soldering is preferable.
I like that CP loco on the table there
Hey there ! Great video , my dc layout runs out of power after a switch track , how do I fix this ? Do I need a stronger power block ?
Sounds like the switch has a bad connection. You could try adding some feeder wires to the back section of track.
Is that unleaded solder?
You don't use rerailers?
Haha, I'm all DC, I wonder if I could do this with EZ track!
buy use the ez track with gray roadbed ok not black
Brian Castle ROCK RXR 9 1. That big lot of track I have was a Christmas present 2. I do have some grey roadbed. 3. It's more expensive XD
There is no major difference other then the black track being made from steel and the gray is made from something else, but yes, you could probably get electric blocks to work in this case.
Scrumptious Model Trains I thought that the alloy track would rust if you don't clean it? Maybe I'm wrong, it was something like that
Steel track can rust although If you're using them in a dry environment that usually isn't an issue, I've had bachmann black steel track for years and haven't had this issue.
I love ho tains
That's way to complicated for me.
Hey Harrison, First Off, instead of using those plastic insulated rail joints, I would use a Atlas snap saw and cut a 45° angle and use some Hot Glue to Hold into place! It's a Nice installment & Save A lot of time ripping out the track!!!! You can use a razor saw🪚or the Atlas snap saw. As Far as soldering, I would use a 25watt soldering iron then a High Watt Soldering Gun. Because it will melt the plastic ties! I Always solder to the outside of the Track and never inside the Track. Makes a Neater solder Too! Trust me on that!!!! Also, I Did notice a large Gap of the Track tie. I would use some HO Scale wooden tie with the small spike to Place it in. Makes it looks Better with the ties place in, without the large Gap!!!! Check out my advice!!!! 🚂🚃🚃🚃🚆🏍️💨📷🇺🇸