The word is pronounced GAGE, sounds like cage. That being said, your grasp of English is excellent and I am always especially impressed with your handle on technical words that many English speakers don't use or even know. Your channel is amazing and so informative, you have taught me so much and I really appreciate your in depth explanations and the effort you put in to provide comprehensive understanding. Thank you as always.
Thank you for the science on this topic. I knew nothing on this topic before this video. This is now explaining why my spokes are constantly breaking. I now have to figure out what the needed tensions are to be and how to do it myself.
Speaking of indexes: I'm planning to make an easily searcheable (if that is a proper English phrase) index of all my videos - on my website. RUclips is lacking for the encyclopaedia-like stuff. It seems aimed towards entertainment, and the channel search function is often a hit and miss. :) Talked with my friend about it last evening. I have an idea. Relja
Thank you for your videos. I have long wanted to be able to talk about issues like this with a knowledgable bike mechanic but... sadly... the ones that I have met have either not understood their craft very well or were unwilling to take the time to explain things. Thank you again!
Definitely stress relieve. Spokes that are too short can cause breakage too. Also using a spoke tension gauge is important to not exceed max tension for the rim, or hub. Too much spoke tension can cause spoke breakage, or the rim to crack at the spoke holes, or eyelets to pull through. Small wheels, or wheels with extremely large hubs, or a combination thereof; For example ebike hub motors can benefit from rounded nipples and washers that allow the spokes to seat at a better angle. I.e Sapim Polyax, and DT swiss has an equivalent. This is another cause of breakage on ebike wheels.
Let me share my real experience. Spoke tension gauge is not needed because you can exceed the maximum tension. It's needed exactly for the opposite reason - so you can stay above the minimum tension. And keep the tension of the spokes as even as possible. Exceeding the standard for most rims maximum tension of 130 kgf requires quite a strong hands with a normal spoke wrench. Going over this tension with ease is only possible if you use two nipple washers and apply grease or oil between them. Neugent Cycling does this for deep racing carbon rims and goes to 145 kgf. You can probably find the video. My experience is with stainless steel eyelets on the rim, brass nipples and a layer of grease between them. If you have a non eyeleted aluminum rim, aluminum nipples and no grease or oil between them - I can not see how it can be possible to go over the maximum tension.
Since your video entitled "overpriced garbage" I have to say I trust you implicitly. My bike shop sells me regular constant guage spokes for £1.50 probably $2 not $1 - good old rip off Britain Anyway I'm getting lots of spokes popping on my back wheel just now seems at the flange on the left side and at the nipple on the right. Mind you it's the third rim on the same hub and original spokes so I guess the spokes have seen better days. Thanks for the videos, pleasure to watch them
OK now i understand why we have steel spokes as opposed to aluminium ones! Because you can formulate aluminium to a scary high tensile strength, but you can't have it resistant to repeat fatigue. Apparently polymer textile spokes are a thing now though, like wet noodles. Not sure whether a good thing, because the connection between the textile and the metal ends can be dubious.
Brilliant! I watched several videos on wheel lacing recently, by the most respected bike businesses, and although they discussed the spoke types and the tensions and stresses of different lacing patterns, they did not explain the details at all, of the different spoke types. Do you have ideas on how to pull the gears from the ebike motor without having to buy a special tool? Slamming it down did not separate the parts. Applying lube, then waiting, I can try. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on so many repair shop ideas!
1. We have a factory built wheel. 2. Rim starts to crack at about 7500 km on 2 holes. 3. At 10000 km over 20 holes have cracks, some spokes are completely lose. - The rim is replaced with a much stronger one. - Spoke tension is set at the minimum possible - 65 kgf at non drive side and 95 kgf at drive side. 4. At 13500 km 2 spokes brake. - Broken spokes are both non drive side leading spokes. - All non drive side spokes are replaced. - Spokes are set this time are set on the other extreme - to the maximum tension possible - 130 kgf drive side and 100 kgf non drive side. As you can see now the non drive side is at higher tension than the drive side before (100 against 90). 5. Even before 14000 km 2 spokes brake again. - Broken spokes are again both non drive side leading spokes. How do you explain that? As you can see, increasing is expected to at least make the situation better, but in fact the result is a total failure... And you say - do not use thicker spokes, but get "double butted", or whatever they are called (sapim race, for example), spokes.
The word is pronounced GAGE, sounds like cage. That being said, your grasp of English is excellent and I am always especially impressed with your handle on technical words that many English speakers don't use or even know. Your channel is amazing and so informative, you have taught me so much and I really appreciate your in depth explanations and the effort you put in to provide comprehensive understanding. Thank you as always.
Thank you for the science on this topic. I knew nothing on this topic before this video. This is now explaining why my spokes are constantly breaking. I now have to figure out what the needed tensions are to be and how to do it myself.
Excellent overview of a very complex system. This one goes in my keeper index!
Speaking of indexes:
I'm planning to make an easily searcheable (if that is a proper English phrase) index of all my videos - on my website. RUclips is lacking for the encyclopaedia-like stuff. It seems aimed towards entertainment, and the channel search function is often a hit and miss. :)
Talked with my friend about it last evening. I have an idea.
Relja
Here is the first version (still hundreds of videos left to add and sort):
www.bikegremlin.com/youtube/
Relja
thanks so much for doing this video despite the heat!
Thank you for your videos. I have long wanted to be able to talk about issues like this with a knowledgable bike mechanic but... sadly... the ones that I have met have either not understood their craft very well or were unwilling to take the time to explain things. Thank you again!
Definitely stress relieve. Spokes that are too short can cause breakage too. Also using a spoke tension gauge is important to not exceed max tension for the rim, or hub. Too much spoke tension can cause spoke breakage, or the rim to crack at the spoke holes, or eyelets to pull through. Small wheels, or wheels with extremely large hubs, or a combination thereof; For example ebike hub motors can benefit from rounded nipples and washers that allow the spokes to seat at a better angle. I.e Sapim Polyax, and DT swiss has an equivalent. This is another cause of breakage on ebike wheels.
Agree with most - good points. Just not sure about the rounded nipples. Bending spokes at the nipple entry section works effectivelly.
Relja
Let me share my real experience.
Spoke tension gauge is not needed because you can exceed the maximum tension. It's needed exactly for the opposite reason - so you can stay above the minimum tension. And keep the tension of the spokes as even as possible.
Exceeding the standard for most rims maximum tension of 130 kgf requires quite a strong hands with a normal spoke wrench. Going over this tension with ease is only possible if you use two nipple washers and apply grease or oil between them. Neugent Cycling does this for deep racing carbon rims and goes to 145 kgf. You can probably find the video.
My experience is with stainless steel eyelets on the rim, brass nipples and a layer of grease between them. If you have a non eyeleted aluminum rim, aluminum nipples and no grease or oil between them - I can not see how it can be possible to go over the maximum tension.
I am learning so much from your enthusiastic videos ! Thank you!
Добро урађено!
Awesome video on a very informative channel. Thank you a lot.
Thank you so much for your educating videos! :D
Since your video entitled "overpriced garbage" I have to say I trust you implicitly.
My bike shop sells me regular constant guage spokes for £1.50 probably $2 not $1 - good old rip off Britain
Anyway I'm getting lots of spokes popping on my back wheel just now seems at the flange on the left side and at the nipple on the right. Mind you it's the third rim on the same hub and original spokes so I guess the spokes have seen better days.
Thanks for the videos, pleasure to watch them
OK now i understand why we have steel spokes as opposed to aluminium ones! Because you can formulate aluminium to a scary high tensile strength, but you can't have it resistant to repeat fatigue.
Apparently polymer textile spokes are a thing now though, like wet noodles. Not sure whether a good thing, because the connection between the textile and the metal ends can be dubious.
Brilliant! I watched several videos on wheel lacing recently, by the most respected bike businesses, and although they discussed the spoke types and the tensions and stresses of different lacing patterns, they did not explain the details at all, of the different spoke types.
Do you have ideas on how to pull the gears from the ebike motor without having to buy a special tool? Slamming it down did not separate the parts. Applying lube, then waiting, I can try.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on so many repair shop ideas!
I should have posted on your forum :) as advised.
Remind me to thank you later.
:)
Isn't the spoke in a sense a good intended breaking point?
It’s the fatigue breaking we’re trying to prevent here. Spoke fatigue breaking brings no benefits, just problems.
Relja
@@BikeGremlinUS Makes perfect sense, thanks!
1. We have a factory built wheel.
2. Rim starts to crack at about 7500 km on 2 holes.
3. At 10000 km over 20 holes have cracks, some spokes are completely lose.
- The rim is replaced with a much stronger one.
- Spoke tension is set at the minimum possible - 65 kgf at non drive side and 95 kgf at drive side.
4. At 13500 km 2 spokes brake.
- Broken spokes are both non drive side leading spokes.
- All non drive side spokes are replaced.
- Spokes are set this time are set on the other extreme - to the maximum tension possible - 130 kgf drive side and 100 kgf non drive side. As you can see now the non drive side is at higher tension than the drive side before (100 against 90).
5. Even before 14000 km 2 spokes brake again.
- Broken spokes are again both non drive side leading spokes.
How do you explain that?
As you can see, increasing is expected to at least make the situation better, but in fact the result is a total failure...
And you say - do not use thicker spokes, but get "double butted", or whatever they are called (sapim race, for example), spokes.
Please use the bikegremlin.net forum for any questions and help.
Relja