I've seen a fair few wet blending tutorials on youtube, but this has to one of the best. I actually feel like you taught me something, unlike the others that just show me what wet blending is.
This Tutorial is outstanding. I've been trying my hand at wetblending for some time now, but only after seeing this video i've realized my past mistakes and finally pulled it off.
Thanks for the great video, but while I understand the concept of wet blending, I don't really understand how to apply it. I'm painting my space marines at the moment, and I'm not sure where I would apply wet blending while painting power armor.
Mid-roll ads are hit or miss. Sometimes it's a banner, sometimes it's a skippable ad, sometimes its a full ad, sometimes it's nothing, sometimes the viewer has adblock xD
I thought this was a very nice introduction to this technique, and I also appreciated that the ad was at a defined point rather than a random interruption. Have saved this for future reference.
The more you work two colors of any hue, the more blending will occur. When the two colors are not primary or are opposite on the color "triangle" then you run the risk of turning out a neutral grey. These colors are best faded using a pre-wetted technic, let dry, followed by a wash of the lighter color into the stronger color. (ex. orange faded into blue, blue being the primary, strong color, orange being the weak color.) For more dramatic bounce of fades of this nature, pull a third color over the secondary, such as yellow. Yellow being a root for orange, one of the primaries of orange, opposite to blue in the fade I exampled. Some of the *best* colors to fade with are any two colors on the same side of the color triangle, such as a primary and a secondary. (green and yellow, blue and green, yellow and orange, orange and red, red and purple)...
I want to shout out the book he opens at 4:13. Color and Light by Gurney. It is so helpful for basically every art form and it is the top book on color, light, composition, ect, that I've read.
I have ruined nearly 100 dollars worth of minis by now trying to wet blend them. Using good quality brushes with broad tips, thinning paints with vallejo thinner, multiple coats. I can achieve a good blend when practicing on a flat warhammer base, but as soon as I try it on a figure the results usually go to the garbage.
Are you just cleaning your brush inbetween each blend? The red/green blend around 5:40 looked like you were loading your brush with a bit more red and brown occasionally. Thanks for your help, whoever answers - appreciate it
so yesterday i was painting my first model ever and decided i had over-shaded and over-highlighted some areas. i tried getting my brush wet with water to soften it up and blend and it didnt work. so i decided to put some brush cleaner (not acetone but some non-dangerous alternative, it doesnt say what) and used that to melt off some layers and brushed it all around. Since there was a lot of black, it made my necrom very dirty and grimy looking, and had various stained/dirty patches which ended up looking pertty nice. My question is, is this an actual method? or is it just wet blending on crack?
All your videos are fantastic my man. I find myself watching your videos even when I know how to do the techniques already and always seem to learn another way of achieving the effect. Keep up the high quality stuff, you rock!
From my own experience, sounds like the paint is too thinned down. You may need to add a "paint base" to the paint you're using, this is the solution that houses the pigment. One of my "I don't have the cash for that stuff" tricks is to add either a thicker matt or hi-gloss finish to the paint, but it must be THICKER than the paint you are using. Although blending should smoothly blend, if the paint is too "liquid" it just becomes one uniform coat. Another tip would also be to do an initial layer and let it dry, go over it with the same color and then proceed to layer down the next paint, it gives a strong presentation of the initial color, and will not be faded out by the second coat. I went to school for art, not saying I know the whole subject matter, but these are some tricks we use to give the illusion of blending or to compensate for cheap paints that were too "watery".
I find everytime I go to add a second colour or even feather out the first with a wet brush that it's begun drying and their are tide marks ... :| I've tried retarder but can't figure out how to get it to mix well with my paints, feels too gloopy. Should I buy another bottle, is mine maybe a bad batch? Or should I use something else like a glaze medium?
Another thing you could try is flow improver; in my experience, flow improver tends to keep the paint thinner and wetter for longer than something like drying retarder. In general, most (if not all) flow improvers will call for them to be diluted to a specific percentage with water, which should also help you keep the paint wetter longer.
Seriously dont be nervous with wetblending the second you start pushing the paint around you'll go "Aha" and immediatly progress years in one mini. I tried it on my first ever model. Took little effort and immediatly started getting asked how long I've been painting to which I could reply three weeks. You can always strip if youre unhappy
Honestly grab a box of something cheap with like a lot of big flat or curved but low detail areas to practice the technique. Some kits are cheaper because the unit in game isn't very high value, so that is a good purchase for practicing on, because you get a lot of stuff to practice on for the lowest price. Then rather than paintthem altogether like you normally would, paint them one at a time because you will change your method in slight ways as you encounter problems, find better ways to do it and just become more comfortabel with the process. Don't be afraid to mess up. For small mistakes just dab on some water, leave it a moment, then use a synthetic brush (as it has firmer bristles) to rub away the mistake like a pencil eraser, if this isn't enough use your base colour to clean up. But even if you feel things have gotten so bad there is no saving it, you can always strip the miniature, re-prime it and go again if you want. I would also recommend the surface wetting method as a way of practicing off of mini's. Small ammount of retarder to water, wet but don't deluge the surface. Then apply your two colours one from each side, you will find they flow and blend into each other more smoothly on a wet surface, this is true even on a wet palette.
Shitty primaries marines are good for practising on and after you're finished with them you can take them to the garden and melt them down into a giant ball of plastic for being so shitty
Tiiiight.. expanding on this, I'd love to see a video on two brush, loaded brush and spit/void. Totally took my blends to the next level given we know when to use them.
Dude do you have any tips on how to manage to larger area when wet blending?!? Painting capes and cloaks for example, you base coat the whole thing and start to wet blend in the highlights and by the time you’ve gotten half way the base coat has dried :(
First, dry time extender is your friend. Second, break the piece down into smaller chunks. Instead of blending the whole thing, blend one fold at a time. Third, in that same vein, look at Scott's video on glazing, as that's also a part of getting a smooth blend.
Awesome channel dude! I just got into the 40k minis painting (painted my first 6 chaos marines he-he) and I'm constantly trying and testing any kind of techniques I can find. Any information that I can gather along the way really helps as I've never been an art person so to say, so at the beginning I had for all intents and purposes 0 knowledge as to how to actually paint. Happy to say, with a looot of research and practice I get better at it with each step and it feels awesome! So with that in mind, just wanted to drop by and say thanks for the vids - they are tons of help! Keep it up ^^
1:54 I was surprised several times during this video by the appreance of the huge brush. Was eagerly waiting what you are going to use that for. :) Anyway, superb tutorial, many thanks, I have learnt alot!
I love the effect of wet blending, but if I then have to highlight the blended area it's intimidating. Wet blending to do highlights and shadows is ok. But having to blend highlight colours of your blended colours... shivers.
I dont know what is going on. When i try to blend with all of these methods, either another colour is pushed/pulled away and no blending is happening. If there is too much water they tend make puddles. If there is less solvent, u will get stripes no matter what is the order of blending. The colours im trying to blend are gauss blaster green and moot green.
How viable is this technique for small figures like 20mm that I paint? I more or less learnt normal layering, but it does make sort of super clean and sharp paint which is not completely realistic. I was thinking about trying blending, but such small figures, with tiny wrinkles and item on them.. not sure if they give enough space to do this?
@@larry4014 Yeah, it does. It's best used for small areas though, because it's a bit less controlled and can be less smooth. But on the upside, it goes very quick.
What climate are you in? I can only accidentally wet blend when I go into a painting frenzy. Usually my paint dries nearly instantly due to the dry air where I live. How much drying retardant should be used to prevent this? A drop? A blob?
Great video, I like the way you explain the technique(maybe a bit too fast, but if you have not get it in the first watching you can go back and watch it again, miracles of the video :) ), giving to the directionality of the brush stroke the importance it has. Keep on doing such good videos, they are useful and interesting. :)
For anyone just learning how to wet blend and getting frustrated, the Privateer Press method works with similar results and is very easy to pull off. Fully base coat the area in one color, let it dry. Mix around 50:50 matte medium to paint (any medium that improves translucency will work, PP was big on matte medium) and then apply this mixture to about 25% of the surface you want to blend. Now take a clean damp brush and pull the still wet medium/paint across part of the base color surface to create a transition. This method does not take long to master and is very quick to apply, so great for horde armies - it works very well for both cloth and flat surfaces (like sword blades). True wet blending will produce a better gradient since the colors are mixed instead of layered so this isn’t a substitute for that technique.
Getting rid of the "mass tone" as you call it, (the strip of heavy paint that appears when working thickly) is so simple: Pull a second wide dry *clean* brush across the two colors in the direction of the brush strokes a few times. Note that the brush has to be wide enough to cover most of the fade, then all you will have to do is swipe a few times and the ridges of heavy paint are smoothed out.
Hi there. Firstly, great video and a big help. Im practicing on squares and it seems no matter how much i water down or use glaze medium i still get brush strokes. Ive tried using different brushes and applying different pressure with the brush but it doesnt seem to help. Any suggestions? Im using vallejo game colour. Thanks for any help
The first video I watched was useful, the second had me chuckling a bit, this video as the third I've watched just straight up has me laughing at your personality. Funny shit
@4:18 My toes just curled right up and my paint all curdled from the sheer amount of cringe. But hey, at least I know how to wet blend (that even sounds cringey now). *shudders
As someone that has been struggling for a while with wet blending, I'll give my two cents that maybe can help someone else: the base color can help a lot. Before blending, I paint with a slightly darker mix of the two colors, wait for it to dry and then do the blending on top of it. I find it helps obtaining a smoother blend. Of course, this works best with colors that mix well (i.e. blue and green or red and purple), weirder combination are still out of my reach!
Great video. I had a wererat mini sitting around for over a year and had always planned to attempt my first wet blend to go from a dark pink at his finger tips and fade into a lighter pink then to flesh tone. I finally got around to painting him and your video helped a lot. I think it turned out pretty well for a first attempt! Thank you.
What color of blue is used at 4:30 on the square? And the blue on the bird? That is the richest most vibrant blue I have ever seen. Please I'm desperate to know.
I thought you were just trying out a new way to transition with showing the end of a broomstick, after a couple of times I noticed it was just your head and hair lel
It's been a nightmare to paint with acrylics, if i wet the surface before applying paint and a little water it creates a border around the area i painted, add too much water and the paint will start to drip down, plus the paint and water on the figure dries in a few seconds. Think without using paint retarder all of this is useless and the working time of the paint is way too low, i even use a wet pallet to no avail.
Loving your vids Miniac - only stumbled across them last week and now watching them ALLLLL!!! Seriously man, awesome explanations, great detail and well paced. Love your mannerisms you're chucking in too *flicks tongue repeatedly*, and top production mate!! Keep up the great work =D
This is a technique I still need to play around with some more; in my initial attempts I actually found it quite intimidating since if it goes wrong, it goes spectacularly wrong and you wind up with a muddied color. Still, once you've become comfortable with it, its a great technique. On a semi-related note (because it does deal with the video) when you did that weird southern accent while searching through submission photos you sounded oddly like Matthew McConaughey.
Am I right in stating the following about the various techniques or am I wrong ? anyone please correct me if I am wrong. 1. Layering is a painting process whereby we apply lighter painted highlights on top of darker already dried base paint layers. (always lighter paint on top of darker dried paint). 2. Glazing is a painting process whereby we apply darker painted layers which are very thinned down onto already dried lighter paint layers (always darker on top of lighter). 3. Feathering (or dry blending) is a process whereby we have a dried base paint layer and we attempt to create a gradual colour transition of the paint we are applying to the dry base paint. The paint we are are applying has a thick starting point and then with a damp brush (damp with only water no paint) we then gradually spread the paint from it's starting point edge across the surface of the dried paint. The dried base paint may be darker than the paint we are applying for the feathering or vice-versa (I'm saying this because miiniwargaming guy from another said so ruclips.net/video/V8rXOl_m8ew/видео.html ). 4. Wet blending which is perhaps the most advanced technique has the aim of (like feathering) to create a gradual colour transition but unlike feathering we are spreading WET paint from darker to lighter paint (and vice-vera), such that ALL paint we are applying and mixing is wet throughout the process at all times and there maybe two or more lighter/darker paints used in the transition process (often wet paints with intermediate light/darkness are used in this process. Often a liquid retardant is used on the paints we are applying in order to keep the paints wet as we blend them into each other.
incorrect on number 2. glazing just refers to the consistency of the paint. I have seen plenty of pros glaze up to a higher color, its just less common and harder to do. also i would consider washes as part of layering and they obviously go darker. youre also missing the loaded brush and two brush blending techniques.
I'm guessing you mean the film, in which case I'm referencing this photo ( futurewarstories.blogspot.com/2015/04/the-weapons-of-sci-fi-morita-rifle.html ); the color of the uniform/body suit underneath is a light gray with a slight warm tone to it (something like Vallejo Game Color Cold Gray, which despite the name is actually a warm gray, or some GW Dawnstone mixed with a small amount of Ushabti Bone) while the armor is a dark gray-green, much like an olive drab (most dark olive drab colors should work). If you plan to use a wash for shading, I would recommend either Army Painter Military Shade or GW Coelia Greenshade with either Army Painter Dark Tone or Vallejo Model Wash Gray. Highlighting the body suit, I would go with adding in an off-white (like more Ushabti Bone or Vallejo Model Color Iraqi Sand) and the armor with something like Straken Green or Nurgling Green (GW), Vallejo Game Color Dead Flesh or Army Painter Necrotic Flesh.
Great tutorial! This inspires me to give it a serious try. Oh, and the slurping sound took me by surprise. But in a good way, though. The outtakes are hilarious! :-)
The problem I alwayhs have when trying to do this is that either my colours dry out before I can blend them, or they become too diluted with water and doesn't cover anything and just end up gathering in the crevices. Am I doing something wrong or am I just really, really bad at fining the optimal dilution for my paints?
@@digitalbear8809 Thanks a lot for the reply. I guess the paint medium evaporates slower than water or something. I'll try to practice some more to see if I can getthe hang of it!
Possibly a dumb question, but... how did you clean your brush so fast between colors? It almost looks like you do it in a single motion. It takes me a good 30-60 seconds to clean a brush, usually...
One thing he does well that I can't is he doesn't load the brush completely. It's probably a swish swish and dab the brush on a towel. Since he's wetblending, a little dampness is fine, and the color on the brush is part of the wet blend, so maybe he doesn't need to be as careful?
Scott, I’ve used Vallejo paints for decades and I am partial to them. I noticed you have a shit ton of Scale 75 paints. How do they stack up to Vallejo??
from what i understand scale 75 are gel based, so you can thin them into glazes with just water, and i guess they are really easy to paint over zenithal priming and for various wet blending techniques. citadel and vallejo have lower pigment counts as well, so you need a thinning medium to get a good glaze.
I have all their paint sets and they are a gel based paint so doing blends thinning them out etc is awesome so they’re better in that aspect compared to Vallejo paints the biggest problem with scale 75 is the paints separate pretty quick, so you have to shake them a TON to get the paints to come out mixed well onto your pallet.
Can someone tell me what he is mixing the water with for a longer wet surface? I'm from Germany and dont understand it and the subtitles says he is mixing it with regards XD
Sorry, textblock incoming: I tried wetblending...a lot...with my first mini, now on the second I already sat down for around 10 hours solely on wet blending a carpace of a tyranid. Granted I'm a noob and wet blending is considered somehow advanced and also the carpace is probably not an ideal space to try, but I feel that I need to get that tech at least somehow amateurishly down to get where I want to be. Now I've also watched tons of videos, some over and over, this included and my issue is the not mentioned steps in between. I know to put on a color with a medium (everyone says something else though and I've got all of them to use: glaze medium, retarder medium, flow improver, water), rinse out the brush and put on the other and then work towards each color. My issue there is: As soon as I reach one color with the other, it overwhelms the second color, like blending from black to blue: starting from black, the blue basically vanishes. Now I can stop in between and move from blue to black, cleaning out the brush first (cause if not, the same issue: I 'overwrite' one color with the other completely), but that also puts so much water on the mini over time and also does not really blend it together all that well. Other way around: starting from blue, every trace of black vanishes into a dark blue (but not only the transition: everything). I basically have no idea when to put the brush into water, when to wipe it dryer, when to leave it wet, when to add more color to a side, do that with water or simply go to the color and so on.
@@Shadenium1 it got better after I read a tip on reddit about using a wet towel to wipe. Honestly though its far from mastered, which mostly is connected to me trying to get better at other techniques, like glazing and layering. I did buy some retarded medium though and want to try ninjons technique from his latest video.
@@Shadenium1 basically after you swish out the second color, you wipe the excess water in a wet paper towel. With a dry one it was just too dry for wet blending. A wet paper towel helped. I guess it's similar if you lick the brush, as several painters do
No worries sir. Love your channel. I'm a long time gamer but only ever painted one mini before so trying to learn some things by watching. Thank you for all that you do. :)
I wanna wetblend for those sweet thicc transitions. Do you know if the Leviathan Bonesword on Games Workshop's display Hive Tyrant model is wet-blended, or feathered? Because that red-black blend with the white-pink highlights is just damn gorgeous...
"First a message from whichever sponsor bid the highest" *no message at all* 😂
This has helped me immensly! just gave it my first try and actually surprised how non scary it actually is
The horror... the horror. The tongue thing is back, and with no warning!
NO MERCY
I've seen a fair few wet blending tutorials on youtube, but this has to one of the best. I actually feel like you taught me something, unlike the others that just show me what wet blending is.
Thanks for the kind words!!
This Tutorial is outstanding. I've been trying my hand at wetblending for some time now, but only after seeing this video i've realized my past mistakes and finally pulled it off.
Soo...
Turns out I haven't been wet blending at all
Thanks for the great video, but while I understand the concept of wet blending, I don't really understand how to apply it. I'm painting my space marines at the moment, and I'm not sure where I would apply wet blending while painting power armor.
I've been wet blending my highlights in. It's tough and it takes a long time but it's the best I've gotten my highlights to look.
You both gained my respect and freaked out my girlfriend with that Hannibal Lector lick-n-pop.
mission accomplished
Another sick video. Thanks for keeping them hilarious and awesome!
No ad came up >:D
Mid-roll ads are hit or miss. Sometimes it's a banner, sometimes it's a skippable ad, sometimes its a full ad, sometimes it's nothing, sometimes the viewer has adblock xD
Turn off Adblock and support these tutorials!
I don't have AdBlock, the video just happened to continue normally. Ads are always hit or miss.
Wardude yep!
Wardude
Mine was a 4 min Paco Rabanne ad, I always watch the ads for channels I'm subbed to
I thought this was a very nice introduction to this technique, and I also appreciated that the ad was at a defined point rather than a random interruption. Have saved this for future reference.
The more you work two colors of any hue, the more blending will occur. When the two colors are not primary or are opposite on the color "triangle" then you run the risk of turning out a neutral grey. These colors are best faded using a pre-wetted technic, let dry, followed by a wash of the lighter color into the stronger color. (ex. orange faded into blue, blue being the primary, strong color, orange being the weak color.) For more dramatic bounce of fades of this nature, pull a third color over the secondary, such as yellow. Yellow being a root for orange, one of the primaries of orange, opposite to blue in the fade I exampled. Some of the *best* colors to fade with are any two colors on the same side of the color triangle, such as a primary and a secondary. (green and yellow, blue and green, yellow and orange, orange and red, red and purple)...
Thank you from my heart, your information made this video worth watching. Do you have a channel?
I wish you the best.
Maha
I want to shout out the book he opens at 4:13. Color and Light by Gurney. It is so helpful for basically every art form and it is the top book on color, light, composition, ect, that I've read.
THANK YOU! I just found this video, and was wondering about that! @Miniac no affiliate link for that one?
I have ruined nearly 100 dollars worth of minis by now trying to wet blend them. Using good quality brushes with broad tips, thinning paints with vallejo thinner, multiple coats. I can achieve a good blend when practicing on a flat warhammer base, but as soon as I try it on a figure the results usually go to the garbage.
Are you just cleaning your brush inbetween each blend? The red/green blend around 5:40 looked like you were loading your brush with a bit more red and brown occasionally.
Thanks for your help, whoever answers - appreciate it
so yesterday i was painting my first model ever and decided i had over-shaded and over-highlighted some areas. i tried getting my brush wet with water to soften it up and blend and it didnt work. so i decided to put some brush cleaner (not acetone but some non-dangerous alternative, it doesnt say what) and used that to melt off some layers and brushed it all around. Since there was a lot of black, it made my necrom very dirty and grimy looking, and had various stained/dirty patches which ended up looking pertty nice.
My question is, is this an actual method? or is it just wet blending on crack?
Thanks for this vid, I can wetblend to some degree, but I do not feel like I'm 100% in control so any videos on this are very helpfull.
I'm glad to be of help!
1:29 i thought for a moment: whats he doing with a bush of dry grass
Been taking metallics and colours, wet blending yellow to blue, it's been an incredible technique for getting a beetle-like carapace shine!
A lot of plebs get their shighlights confused with their hadows, but no bigger pleb than the governor of Wisconsin.
All your videos are fantastic my man. I find myself watching your videos even when I know how to do the techniques already and always seem to learn another way of achieving the effect. Keep up the high quality stuff, you rock!
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Slurping at the camera is a like from me.
The rest of the video was pretty helpful, so that's a subscribe from me.
Every time I try this it just straight mixes the paint and I get one solid plane of the mixed color. How do I avoid this?
From my own experience, sounds like the paint is too thinned down. You may need to add a "paint base" to the paint you're using, this is the solution that houses the pigment. One of my "I don't have the cash for that stuff" tricks is to add either a thicker matt or hi-gloss finish to the paint, but it must be THICKER than the paint you are using. Although blending should smoothly blend, if the paint is too "liquid" it just becomes one uniform coat. Another tip would also be to do an initial layer and let it dry, go over it with the same color and then proceed to layer down the next paint, it gives a strong presentation of the initial color, and will not be faded out by the second coat. I went to school for art, not saying I know the whole subject matter, but these are some tricks we use to give the illusion of blending or to compensate for cheap paints that were too "watery".
Dammit, now my brain hurts. Guess I need to ... paint more minis!
I find everytime I go to add a second colour or even feather out the first with a wet brush that it's begun drying and their are tide marks ... :| I've tried retarder but can't figure out how to get it to mix well with my paints, feels too gloopy. Should I buy another bottle, is mine maybe a bad batch? Or should I use something else like a glaze medium?
Another thing you could try is flow improver; in my experience, flow improver tends to keep the paint thinner and wetter for longer than something like drying retarder. In general, most (if not all) flow improvers will call for them to be diluted to a specific percentage with water, which should also help you keep the paint wetter longer.
Thanks for the detailed video, you saved me so much troubleshooting! I just started implementing this and I love the results :D
I still haven't been able to pull off a good wet blend. I'm sticking to glazing until I get some old useless minis. Anyone here play Tao?
I'm just still salty from going against them with my Dark Eldar from 7th.
I actually like the models.
Seriously dont be nervous with wetblending the second you start pushing the paint around you'll go "Aha" and immediatly progress years in one mini. I tried it on my first ever model. Took little effort and immediatly started getting asked how long I've been painting to which I could reply three weeks. You can always strip if youre unhappy
Honestly grab a box of something cheap with like a lot of big flat or curved but low detail areas to practice the technique. Some kits are cheaper because the unit in game isn't very high value, so that is a good purchase for practicing on, because you get a lot of stuff to practice on for the lowest price. Then rather than paintthem altogether like you normally would, paint them one at a time because you will change your method in slight ways as you encounter problems, find better ways to do it and just become more comfortabel with the process.
Don't be afraid to mess up. For small mistakes just dab on some water, leave it a moment, then use a synthetic brush (as it has firmer bristles) to rub away the mistake like a pencil eraser, if this isn't enough use your base colour to clean up. But even if you feel things have gotten so bad there is no saving it, you can always strip the miniature, re-prime it and go again if you want.
I would also recommend the surface wetting method as a way of practicing off of mini's. Small ammount of retarder to water, wet but don't deluge the surface. Then apply your two colours one from each side, you will find they flow and blend into each other more smoothly on a wet surface, this is true even on a wet palette.
Shitty primaries marines are good for practising on and after you're finished with them you can take them to the garden and melt them down into a giant ball of plastic for being so shitty
Tiiiight.. expanding on this, I'd love to see a video on two brush, loaded brush and spit/void. Totally took my blends to the next level given we know when to use them.
Dude do you have any tips on how to manage to larger area when wet blending?!? Painting capes and cloaks for example, you base coat the whole thing and start to wet blend in the highlights and by the time you’ve gotten half way the base coat has dried :(
First, dry time extender is your friend. Second, break the piece down into smaller chunks. Instead of blending the whole thing, blend one fold at a time. Third, in that same vein, look at Scott's video on glazing, as that's also a part of getting a smooth blend.
I love your stuff. It is always helpful. I virtually learned how to paint from you. Carry On!!!
@Miniac, could you provide link to the book you referenced? I'm looking for more stuff to fill my brain with.
Color and light by James Gurney
.
Awesome channel dude! I just got into the 40k minis painting (painted my first 6 chaos marines he-he) and I'm constantly trying and testing any kind of techniques I can find. Any information that I can gather along the way really helps as I've never been an art person so to say, so at the beginning I had for all intents and purposes 0 knowledge as to how to actually paint. Happy to say, with a looot of research and practice I get better at it with each step and it feels awesome! So with that in mind, just wanted to drop by and say thanks for the vids - they are tons of help! Keep it up ^^
Almost fell of my chair when I heard "Paint more minis"
Looked a way just at that moment
1:54 I was surprised several times during this video by the appreance of the huge brush. Was eagerly waiting what you are going to use that for. :) Anyway, superb tutorial, many thanks, I have learnt alot!
Wait, more water = faster drying time? really?
I love the effect of wet blending, but if I then have to highlight the blended area it's intimidating. Wet blending to do highlights and shadows is ok. But having to blend highlight colours of your blended colours... shivers.
Thank you so much
Just what I needed 👍
one of the most easy to understand demonstrate of technique, thank you for your work
Awesome vid/tip. But I've seen an number of painters continuously lick their brush. (or suck it?) What are they doing? Am I NOT seeing this correctly?
I dont know what is going on. When i try to blend with all of these methods, either another colour is pushed/pulled away and no blending is happening. If there is too much water they tend make puddles. If there is less solvent, u will get stripes no matter what is the order of blending. The colours im trying to blend are gauss blaster green and moot green.
You deserve waaay more subs dude
You're my hero
Miscast Terrain
I bid $1 NZD to be a sponsor
How viable is this technique for small figures like 20mm that I paint? I more or less learnt normal layering, but it does make sort of super clean and sharp paint which is not completely realistic. I was thinking about trying blending, but such small figures, with tiny wrinkles and item on them.. not sure if they give enough space to do this?
You can also load your brush with paint A, then dip the tip into paint B. As you apply you first get all B, then progressively more A.
This works?:'D
That's loaded brush technique.
@@larry4014 Yeah, it does. It's best used for small areas though, because it's a bit less controlled and can be less smooth. But on the upside, it goes very quick.
What climate are you in? I can only accidentally wet blend when I go into a painting frenzy. Usually my paint dries nearly instantly due to the dry air where I live.
How much drying retardant should be used to prevent this? A drop? A blob?
Great video, I like the way you explain the technique(maybe a bit too fast, but if you have not get it in the first watching you can go back and watch it again, miracles of the video :) ), giving to the directionality of the brush stroke the importance it has.
Keep on doing such good videos, they are useful and interesting. :)
For anyone just learning how to wet blend and getting frustrated, the Privateer Press method works with similar results and is very easy to pull off. Fully base coat the area in one color, let it dry. Mix around 50:50 matte medium to paint (any medium that improves translucency will work, PP was big on matte medium) and then apply this mixture to about 25% of the surface you want to blend. Now take a clean damp brush and pull the still wet medium/paint across part of the base color surface to create a transition. This method does not take long to master and is very quick to apply, so great for horde armies - it works very well for both cloth and flat surfaces (like sword blades). True wet blending will produce a better gradient since the colors are mixed instead of layered so this isn’t a substitute for that technique.
Getting rid of the "mass tone" as you call it, (the strip of heavy paint that appears when working thickly) is so simple: Pull a second wide dry *clean* brush across the two colors in the direction of the brush strokes a few times. Note that the brush has to be wide enough to cover most of the fade, then all you will have to do is swipe a few times and the ridges of heavy paint are smoothed out.
Hi there. Firstly, great video and a big help.
Im practicing on squares and it seems no matter how much i water down or use glaze medium i still get brush strokes. Ive tried using different brushes and applying different pressure with the brush but it doesnt seem to help. Any suggestions? Im using vallejo game colour.
Thanks for any help
The first video I watched was useful, the second had me chuckling a bit, this video as the third I've watched just straight up has me laughing at your personality. Funny shit
@4:18 My toes just curled right up and my paint all curdled from the sheer amount of cringe.
But hey, at least I know how to wet blend (that even sounds cringey now). *shudders
Could you wet blend with a glaze over a Metallic object to give like the image of a spell washing over the armor or a moving object reflecting off it?
As someone that has been struggling for a while with wet blending, I'll give my two cents that maybe can help someone else: the base color can help a lot. Before blending, I paint with a slightly darker mix of the two colors, wait for it to dry and then do the blending on top of it. I find it helps obtaining a smoother blend. Of course, this works best with colors that mix well (i.e. blue and green or red and purple), weirder combination are still out of my reach!
This video is helpful but does it apply to larger minis, like something that’s...I dunno, 4 inches wide and 7 inches long?
"We are Farmers" commercial bid the highest for me. 👍
Great video. I had a wererat mini sitting around for over a year and had always planned to attempt my first wet blend to go from a dark pink at his finger tips and fade into a lighter pink then to flesh tone. I finally got around to painting him and your video helped a lot. I think it turned out pretty well for a first attempt! Thank you.
Nice videos. You talk a lot about feathering. When are we gonna get a video on that? :)
What color of blue is used at 4:30 on the square? And the blue on the bird? That is the richest most vibrant blue I have ever seen. Please I'm desperate to know.
If TJ Miller and Logic had a baby it would be this guy.
Great tutorial.
Thanks this helps me cause I just started that’s a lot!!!
I thought you were just trying out a new way to transition with showing the end of a broomstick, after a couple of times I noticed it was just your head and hair lel
Fantastic video
It's been a nightmare to paint with acrylics, if i wet the surface before applying paint and a little water it creates a border around the area i painted, add too much water and the paint will start to drip down, plus the paint and water on the figure dries in a few seconds. Think without using paint retarder all of this is useless and the working time of the paint is way too low, i even use a wet pallet to no avail.
Loving your vids Miniac - only stumbled across them last week and now watching them ALLLLL!!!
Seriously man, awesome explanations, great detail and well paced. Love your mannerisms you're chucking in too *flicks tongue repeatedly*, and top production mate!! Keep up the great work =D
smirkingrevenge6 thank you!
Where did you buy those plastic squares for testing?
This is a technique I still need to play around with some more; in my initial attempts I actually found it quite intimidating since if it goes wrong, it goes spectacularly wrong and you wind up with a muddied color. Still, once you've become comfortable with it, its a great technique. On a semi-related note (because it does deal with the video) when you did that weird southern accent while searching through submission photos you sounded oddly like Matthew McConaughey.
My Matthew McConaughey impersonation is on point.
Am I right in stating the following about the various techniques or am I wrong ? anyone please correct me if I am wrong.
1. Layering is a painting process whereby we apply lighter painted highlights on top of darker already dried base paint layers. (always lighter paint on top of darker dried paint).
2. Glazing is a painting process whereby we apply darker painted layers which are very thinned down onto already dried lighter paint layers (always darker on top of lighter).
3. Feathering (or dry blending) is a process whereby we have a dried base paint layer and we attempt to create a gradual colour transition of the paint we are applying to the dry base paint. The paint we are are applying has a thick starting point and then with a damp brush (damp with only water no paint) we then gradually spread the paint from it's starting point edge across the surface of the dried paint. The dried base paint may be darker than the paint we are applying for the feathering or vice-versa (I'm saying this because miiniwargaming guy from another said so ruclips.net/video/V8rXOl_m8ew/видео.html ).
4. Wet blending which is perhaps the most advanced technique has the aim of (like feathering) to create a gradual colour transition but unlike feathering we are spreading WET paint from darker to lighter paint (and vice-vera), such that ALL paint we are applying and mixing is wet throughout the process at all times and there maybe two or more lighter/darker paints used in the transition process (often wet paints with intermediate light/darkness are used in this process. Often a liquid retardant is used on the paints we are applying in order to keep the paints wet as we blend them into each other.
incorrect on number 2. glazing just refers to the consistency of the paint. I have seen plenty of pros glaze up to a higher color, its just less common and harder to do. also i would consider washes as part of layering and they obviously go darker.
youre also missing the loaded brush and two brush blending techniques.
You my friend, are a dammed painting Genius.
He's more of a skilled media presenter of painting person. Masterpieces from geniuses are actually on coolminiornot website.
Did this get demonetized? For what reason lmao
Or maybe I’m an idiot but there was no ad and thats not on my end
Anyone know the mixture of water to paint for wet blending? Or is it just no water?
Tried this for 6 months before i gave up and bought an airbrush instead!
Well hopefully now it's easier to pull off!
Miniac its great for larger surfaces like cloaks/furs...still need to learn it for small areas, gems/eyes etc :p
i think u are supposed to use a bruch for eyes and gems and such for small areas like that
Hi, i recently got into Guard and wanted to paint them like the Mobile Infantry from Starship Troopers. What colors would i need for this?
I'm guessing you mean the film, in which case I'm referencing this photo ( futurewarstories.blogspot.com/2015/04/the-weapons-of-sci-fi-morita-rifle.html ); the color of the uniform/body suit underneath is a light gray with a slight warm tone to it (something like Vallejo Game Color Cold Gray, which despite the name is actually a warm gray, or some GW Dawnstone mixed with a small amount of Ushabti Bone) while the armor is a dark gray-green, much like an olive drab (most dark olive drab colors should work). If you plan to use a wash for shading, I would recommend either Army Painter Military Shade or GW Coelia Greenshade with either Army Painter Dark Tone or Vallejo Model Wash Gray. Highlighting the body suit, I would go with adding in an off-white (like more Ushabti Bone or Vallejo Model Color Iraqi Sand) and the armor with something like Straken Green or Nurgling Green (GW), Vallejo Game Color Dead Flesh or Army Painter Necrotic Flesh.
My nightmare. I lost count how many times I attempted this before and gave up .
Hopefully this makes it easier!
Crontrast
Here from your bearded dragon memorial vid. Baby scott!!
Great!
Great tutorial! This inspires me to give it a serious try. Oh, and the slurping sound took me by surprise. But in a good way, though. The outtakes are hilarious! :-)
Let me know how it goes!
The problem I alwayhs have when trying to do this is that either my colours dry out before I can blend them, or they become too diluted with water and doesn't cover anything and just end up gathering in the crevices.
Am I doing something wrong or am I just really, really bad at fining the optimal dilution for my paints?
@@digitalbear8809 Thanks a lot for the reply.
I guess the paint medium evaporates slower than water or something.
I'll try to practice some more to see if I can getthe hang of it!
@@digitalbear8809 I tried it one one of my chaos sorcerers, and after some practice, it worked!
Possibly a dumb question, but... how did you clean your brush so fast between colors? It almost looks like you do it in a single motion. It takes me a good 30-60 seconds to clean a brush, usually...
One thing he does well that I can't is he doesn't load the brush completely. It's probably a swish swish and dab the brush on a towel. Since he's wetblending, a little dampness is fine, and the color on the brush is part of the wet blend, so maybe he doesn't need to be as careful?
oh god not the tongue again! Useful vid thanks.
Thanks for the video, was just starting this technique :)
You're welcome!
Hey man, what's the wet pallet you use? Love the video's by the way, I've learned a lot.
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Great video man, thank you. Did you ever do the vids on glazes and feathering?
Now he did.
best wetblend tutorial out there. by far
Scott,
I’ve used Vallejo paints for decades and I am partial to them. I noticed you have a shit ton of Scale 75 paints. How do they stack up to Vallejo??
from what i understand scale 75 are gel based, so you can thin them into glazes with just water, and i guess they are really easy to paint over zenithal priming and for various wet blending techniques. citadel and vallejo have lower pigment counts as well, so you need a thinning medium to get a good glaze.
I have all their paint sets and they are a gel based paint so doing blends thinning them out etc is awesome so they’re better in that aspect compared to Vallejo paints the biggest problem with scale 75 is the paints separate pretty quick, so you have to shake them a TON to get the paints to come out mixed well onto your pallet.
Dude you seem totally plastered in this video 🤣 luv it
Can someone tell me what he is mixing the water with for a longer wet surface? I'm from Germany and dont understand it and the subtitles says he is mixing it with regards XD
"Retardant" - the one that slows down X.
What happened with the ad bro? xD
So we use two brushes when wet blending?
No
@@Miniac oh, i thought u were switching brushes. My bad.
This is super late to the gamer and I know know if anyone knows, but does anyone know what color theory book he was using? It looked pretty good.
Color and light by James Gurney.
Is it me or is yellow just a pain in the Butt to wet Blend?
Sorry, textblock incoming:
I tried wetblending...a lot...with my first mini, now on the second I already sat down for around 10 hours solely on wet blending a carpace of a tyranid. Granted I'm a noob and wet blending is considered somehow advanced and also the carpace is probably not an ideal space to try, but I feel that I need to get that tech at least somehow amateurishly down to get where I want to be.
Now I've also watched tons of videos, some over and over, this included and my issue is the not mentioned steps in between. I know to put on a color with a medium (everyone says something else though and I've got all of them to use: glaze medium, retarder medium, flow improver, water), rinse out the brush and put on the other and then work towards each color.
My issue there is: As soon as I reach one color with the other, it overwhelms the second color, like blending from black to blue: starting from black, the blue basically vanishes. Now I can stop in between and move from blue to black, cleaning out the brush first (cause if not, the same issue: I 'overwrite' one color with the other completely), but that also puts so much water on the mini over time and also does not really blend it together all that well. Other way around: starting from blue, every trace of black vanishes into a dark blue (but not only the transition: everything).
I basically have no idea when to put the brush into water, when to wipe it dryer, when to leave it wet, when to add more color to a side, do that with water or simply go to the color and so on.
Have you solved your problem 1 year afterwards?
@@Shadenium1 it got better after I read a tip on reddit about using a wet towel to wipe. Honestly though its far from mastered, which mostly is connected to me trying to get better at other techniques, like glazing and layering. I did buy some retarded medium though and want to try ninjons technique from his latest video.
@@MrStatistx What exactly do you do with wet towel?
@@Shadenium1 basically after you swish out the second color, you wipe the excess water in a wet paper towel. With a dry one it was just too dry for wet blending. A wet paper towel helped. I guess it's similar if you lick the brush, as several painters do
Very cool. Definitely needed this video.
is it just me or is there no sound on this vid anymore?
Does anyone know what wood elf model that is? It looks cool!
salibaba101 nomad prince from GW
FYI Your Twitch link is broken. :( It adds a "_" to the end of your link.
Thanks for letting me know!
No worries sir. Love your channel. I'm a long time gamer but only ever painted one mini before so trying to learn some things by watching. Thank you for all that you do. :)
Bob Ross would approve.
I wanna wetblend for those sweet thicc transitions.
Do you know if the Leviathan Bonesword on Games Workshop's display Hive Tyrant model is wet-blended, or feathered? Because that red-black blend with the white-pink highlights is just damn gorgeous...
This flat out doesn't work