not bein a jerk but you aren't ready for that big/fast of a wave yet, you keep bottoming out during the paddle because you aren't going for it balls-out on faster waves you need to lean slightly more forward and push your weight more to the front, then when you drop for a sec you stand up and carve into the face bigger/faster waves can intimidate you, but you gotta go "full commitment", hesitating or not going full commit will bottom you out every single time, the only separation between mushy beginner waves and intermediate is the courage and confidence to go balls-out full commitment every single time, that's how you build confidence to level up your skills and eventually surf double-triple overhead over sharp reefs
Yo bud! 😁 Thanks for watching/commenting and giving advice, always appreciated! I agree with you and no fence taken. However, I think a good start to be able to commit to the bigger waves and steeper drops is to be out there and get confutable with the surroundings! 🌊 I’m getting closer to have the confidence to go all in but in my opinion it’s a combination of many things that need to be combined to take of on bigger size waves. Recording with the mouth piece isn’t a confident booster but keep watching my clip and I think you will see me taking of on a head high wave soon! Peace 😎
Good sunset! Blessed
Epic! ❤ I love it!
not bein a jerk but you aren't ready for that big/fast of a wave yet, you keep bottoming out during the paddle because you aren't going for it balls-out
on faster waves you need to lean slightly more forward and push your weight more to the front, then when you drop for a sec you stand up and carve into the face
bigger/faster waves can intimidate you, but you gotta go "full commitment", hesitating or not going full commit will bottom you out every single time, the only separation between mushy beginner waves and intermediate is the courage and confidence to go balls-out full commitment every single time, that's how you build confidence to level up your skills and eventually surf double-triple overhead over sharp reefs
Yo bud! 😁 Thanks for watching/commenting and giving advice, always appreciated! I agree with you and no fence taken. However, I think a good start to be able to commit to the bigger waves and steeper drops is to be out there and get confutable with the surroundings! 🌊
I’m getting closer to have the confidence to go all in but in my opinion it’s a combination of many things that need to be combined to take of on bigger size waves. Recording with the mouth piece isn’t a confident booster but keep watching my clip and I think you will see me taking of on a head high wave soon! Peace 😎