How To LIGHT HALLWAYS for Real Estate Photography like a PRO!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- In this video, I'm going to show you how to light hallways like a pro! This is a very simple and easy technique that will help you create beautiful and realistic interior photos.
If you're looking to improve your interior photography skills, then this is the video for you! By following this easy tutorial, you'll be able to light hallways in a way that will give your photos a natural and realistic look. If you're looking to take your Interior Photography to the next level, then give this technique a try!
Don't forget to subscribe as new videos are in the works!
Let me know in the comments if you have any questions.
Real Estate Photography Gear I Use:
Sony A7iii (Photos) - amzn.to/3VHJKEL
Sony A7Siii (Photos & Videos) - amzn.to/3TzbKsp
DJI Mavic 3 (Main) - amzn.to/3VHJKEL
DJI Mavic 2 Pro (Backup) - amzn.to/3D9ipnY
Ronin RSC 2 W/ Raveneye - amzn.to/3Svm7gd
Godox ad600bm - amzn.to/3Tcqk9w
MacBook Air M1- 16gb mem/ 1tb ssd - amzn.to/3yURNnZ
🌮🌮🌮Want to buy me a taco to help support the channel?🌮🌮🌮
www.buymeacoffee.com/definiti...
🖥 Lumenzia (Affiliate Link): getdpd.com/cart/hoplink/21529...
🖥 Luminar Ai (Affiliate Link): skylum.grsm.io/xrkemmdzgu3396
📷 Definitivehdr.com
00:00 Introduction & Thank you
00:47 Photoshop
01:27 The Breakdown
06:37 Easy Window Pulls
09:29 Final Image 
Развлечения
![Natanael Cano x Oscar Maydon - Giza [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eXCS6-MSQ_Y/mqdefault.jpg)
It feels like Christmas morning when you post, another excellent edit. I don't think a photo of that location could get any better.
Lol you're the man! I appreciate it!
Brandon,
Yo! Two questions when you get a moment.
1) I see you running around with the AD600 in your videos. Do use that beast for shooting smaller rooms like bathrooms too? You must have some serious guns (*flex*) carrying that thing all day. ;-)
2) If you find the time, I would like to see how you shoot and light a large room. For example, an empty long basement. A room that would require multiple flash pops (4 or more) to evenly illuminate the entire room. I find it a challenge keep the illumination level equal during the post-processing process.
I lied, I have more questions. What services do you use to deliver images, invoice and such to clients/agents? Aryeo, ShowandTour, etc? Lastly, do you offer one-on-one paid training sessions?
Cheers…
P.S. Post your patron info in future videos.
Hey my friend, thank you for heading over and for the great questions.
1.) The 600 all day every day no other way lol. Small rooms, big rooms, hallways, closets are all with the 600. Typically I just drop the flash power to around 1/16 for bathrooms to 1/32 or less for closets and hallways. Picking up a smaller flash is too many steps and adds time that I don't want to waste.
2.) I can definitely do that and a video on it. It's basically the same process except your adding an additional side to side flash pop further down the room. Then use a layer mask to blend yourself out, group those layers and set it to screen. Then you can adjust the opacity if it's too bright.
3.) I use Aryeo for image delivery in conjunction with Square for invoices>
I don't currently offer paid sessions though I don't mind helping where I can. Shoot me an email to brandon@definitivehdr.com and.I'll get back to you.
I've never looked into Patreon. I'll have to add that to the list and see what they're all about.
Good topic - in the last few months I was getting frustrated with hallways. Recently I started just using a speed light in narrow halls, with the typical left & right flashed frames, but then added one more frame where I toss a foldable white reflector on the floor and aim the speed light straight down to the floor - the bounce results is soft, with good color and evenly lights the hallway from halfway up all the way to the ceiling, with no weird left / right shadow case from ceiling fixtures and no crossing of of the left and right flash framed blooms - it's one extra shot in the field, but I found the editing very quick and the results more pleasing to my eye. I always keep a foldable reflector in my bag anyway, so no extra gear. You can squat down in the frame with your remote trigger, or leave the light on a stand, set low and aimed straight down if you shoot from behind the camera - either way, you're not using the lower 1/3rd of that frame.
Dang, I have a reflector as well. I'm going to have to try this, thank you!
This is a great idea. Can you share the type of reflector you use
@@Highviewsport1 I have a basic round 5 in one foldable that fits in the computer flap in my camera backpack - but I always keep the black / white side on. I usually use it when I have colored ceilings to deal with, or when dealing with open beam ceilings. when bouncing from the floor for ceilings in the hallway - it doesn't take much power to get a real nice, clean white ceiling.
@@BrandonWattsREP Nice - I haven't ever had to use my AD 600 for this technique - basic speed light works most of the time - it's great, because it works no matter the floor covering or color. I like painting in the flash ceiling color / exposure and just leave the hallway lights off most of the time - not blooms!
Hey Brandon! Still browsing through your videos to pick up little nuggets haha. I noticed you're flash pops are being done in dark exposures and in other videos with your left / right flash pops they are in lit up exposures. Can you give us some tips in another video on when to utilise the 'screen' blending mode because whenever I do my back rooms or hallways I have to set them to lighten which messes with the colours, so I end up just using Normal blend mode with cleaner masking (takes longer to finish a shot). Also, do you have rough exposure settings you can share with us for these darker exposures? Might be worth doing another on location video when it's a large space with other rooms showing and your thought process. Thanks again and sorry for the long comment! 😂
Hey my friend. So I don't think I quite get what you are asking on this one.
Typically my camera settings are always the same at f6.4/iso320/1/250ss. This is so that my iso isn't too high, while also exposing for the windows and getting rid of any color casts all at the same time.
As for when I choose screen or lighten, I typically choose screen, set the layer to a black mask and brush in the area that I want. As you noticed, lighten tends to add discoloration unless the area your trying to lighten is full of light from top to bottom. And if you set to screen with no black mask, then the screen brightens up the entire image; which we don't want. So I add a black mask and brush in the area that I need.
I'm trying to get another shoot scheduled to where I not only have the house vacant, but I also don't have another shoot scheduled for immediately after.
If anything, I'm for sure going to do another shoot with my 360 camera attached to my chest while I photograph a house.
@@BrandonWattsREP Ahh I see now! I didn't realise the settings were never changed on your camera (your flash power is handling the light). I use a Godox AD200 Pro with the Godox H200R attachment. I don't think it outputs as much power as your AD600 so I'm normally shooting the ambient shot around F11, ISO 640-800 and SS to whatever the shot requires. For the flash pops I usually keep it at F11, ISO 640 and depending on the room I could be between 1/3 and 1/13ss and for window pulls around 1/10 and 1/30 ss.
what do you set WB to for flash?
Thanks for your wonderful tutorials. Would it be possible for you to share your action, not the one in Lumenzia?
Hey Alex, I'm working on both versions now. One will be on how to install Lumenzia, as I was recently asked on this.
The other will be on how to create the action without Lumenzia.
I prefer the look that comes from Lumenzia though the differences aren't that bad and I'm sure will still help out many.
@@BrandonWattsREP Thanks for your reply! Can't wait to see them.
Are you flashing mostly at 45°?
Typically yes but it's more about trying to angle it in a way that limits shadows being casted on to the wall you are trying to brighten up.
Most times its easy to not have unwanted shadows pop up into the image, other times you kind of have to play with the angle of the flash. It's always easy to have the shadows edited out though so it really depends on the house and whether or not I want to put in extra effort into minimizing the shadows or not.
I really like the final product that your technique employees and would love to incorporate that technique into my work flow. I think most would agree, however, that this technique involves quite a few steps. From an educational prospective I believe your tutorials would be far more affective if you could slowdown (yes I know one could alway stop and replay portions of the tutorial) and explain in more detail the reasoning upon which each step is employed. Again, I like your final product but find that attempting to follow is simply confusing and too difficult to follow, especially when comparing your tutorial approach to others in this rim of study. It might be beneficial to all if perhaps you could make a series of very brief tutorials, each focusing on just one or two elements which make up your technique. Thus gradually introducing the learner.