What is going on? Your video on Lumenzia was the first time I saw that plug in and it's potential. Do you have a video creating the HDR action using lumenzia? I tried to do it, but was unscuccessful with getting the recording to track each step. A video on that would help out greatly! Thanks and thank you for the content.
Hey my friend, So when I first started this channel, I used Lumenzia to merge my hdr brackets as it was faster than going through LR or Enfuse. Over time though, people would ask me how to do the same functions in Lumenzia, but inside Photoshop. Since Lumenzia, at its basic level is luminosity masking, I figured out a way to create an action in PS that merges your brackets into one hdr image and that is what this video is for. For those who can't or don't want to buy Lumenzia but would like to merge hdr brackets. The video before this one is showing how to use custom actions already inside Lumenzia to merge your brackets. That video (linked below) will walk you hotkey through hotkey on how to setup Lumenzia actions so that you can utilize that how you'd like. I take 3 exposures at -2,0,+2 for my exteriors and 3 exp at -1,+1,+3 for my interiors. This action will allow you to merge thise 3 layers into one blended image. And if you wanted to do a different set of brackets, like 5 exp at 1 stop apart, you could take the same steps to blend those together using a various set of luminosity masking. I just prefer 3 exp because it's faster and the quality difference between 5 exp and 3 is negligible. ruclips.net/video/6D3xRJ_eXn4/видео.html
So glad I stumbled across your channel, your tutorials are next-level. Thanks to you my photo game is stepping up. I'm so grateful for the knowledge you share. I'm getting the editing process down but I'm struggling hard on efficiency in a house. I'm using Godox lights and trigger too but I have to use a stand, place the light, then run back to my camera to adjust flash settings on my trigger. I'd love to be able to move through a room like you do but when I tried that, my trigger kept overriding any changes I made to my hand-held flash. Any tips on overcoming this issue?
Hey my friend, thank you for your support and for coming to the channel, I really appreciate it! So what Godox flash and trigger are you using? I use an XPro trigger that allows me to change the settings from the trigger, but I never really use it; I just change the settings on the flash itself. What you're saying is that you're able to change the settings on the flash, but when you go to take the shot, the settings on the flash revert back to the settings that are on the trigger? That's interesting that that would happen and I figure it has to either be something that's in the settings, or a glitch between the 2 devices. Let me know what you have and I'll see if I can find some information on it. For now I'd recommend checking out this video, the guy has some solid advice that might help: ruclips.net/video/8BDrXcLbzCM/видео.html Or if that video doesn't help I'd recommend throwing up a question in the Godox Facebook User group. There are tons of people way more knowledgeable than me who might have the answer off the top of their head: facebook.com/groups/godoxusergroup
Not sure which trigger you are using but most triggers will have an option in settings that will allow you to override the trigger settings when you change the flash setting on a flash unit. Go to menu/shoot and choose the single-person icon. The multi-person and app options will not allow you to override the trigger from the flash unit. @@BrandonWattsREP
Thank you so much! It's cool to see that people enjoy this so much. I really just like working on images, so it's fun to be able to share that with everyone.
Thank you so much! Throw this action into a main action and there's no need to merge 3 exp brackets in LR or any other software anymore. Cuts out so much time when you're able to select all 3 exposures, plus all your flash shots in LR, drag them into PS as layers and just run a single action. Compared to having to send your 3 exps into Merge To HDR, having to wait for that, then sending as layers. That's too many steps when compounded across tens of thousands of image/layers a year.
This way has more control if you wanted to blend things in manually. If you blend through auto-hdr then you are forced to make adjustments to the whole image, whereas with this action you can brush in or out parts that you want over other parts. The time it takes to merge together is a lot faster as well. Since I use HDR in my flash/ambient workflow, I just select all my images including the flash shots, and let my action merge and blend everything together quickly. By using auto-hdr, you're adding another step as you have to select the files to merge into HDR, then merge through more software, before reselecting the new merged file with the flash files and drawing them in PS. That takes too much time when you're working on 100s of images.
@@BrandonWattsREP I had a question about aperture, what do you recommend for a large room? Do you pick different apertures for different types of rooms?
@@brokeforever tl;dr- I expose for my highlights which dictates the exposure triangle. Great question. So I typically focus on the floor at the half way point of the image with an f/stop of 6.3. This does several things all at once. -Gives focus that isn't too shallow and is good enough for REP. -Allows for more light to come in and hit the sensor, which means less flash power/battery power used per shot. -Want greater/deeper focus? You'll need to increase your flash power if you increase your f/stop. Nothing wrong with this, this is why I use a 600w. -Sticking to one aperture increases my speed in the house because then the only thing I have to worry about changing is the flash power from shot to shot. If you have the time, nothing wrong with playing with aperture in every room. You play with f/stop, you'll have to play with other settings. For example, want deeper focus with a higher f/stop but you only have limited battery left in your flash? You'll have to increase your iso if you don't want to sacrifice shutter speed/highlights. Go too high in your iso and you'll be stacking layer upon layer of high iso just to make an even grainy-er image. This is why I stick with 320, only going up to 400-500iso max. Since I stick to 320iso and shutter speed at 1/250 to capture my highlights, that leaves f/6.3 to wrangle it all in without being too shallow of focus, too grainy with iso, or too dark in the highlights. It seems like a lot but that's the exposure triangle. If your main focus is to have more focus (no pun intended) then you'll have to figure out what the next most important thing is for you. Less grainy of an image, better highlights, or flash power. I'll have to make a video on the exposure triangle for real estate photography. This is a lot to take in I am sure.
@@BrandonWattsREP yes a dedicated video would be great but that makes sense, I’ve been using f8 and it’s hard to get the exposure especially with a regular beginner flash.
@@brokeforever 6.3 just makes it easier to expose with flash than anything higher than that. It's not that it's impossible to do, it just takes more time to figure out the best settings for that f/stop. You increase your f/stop you increase your flash power which also increases the probability of harsh shadows. It's just a large combinations of factors, all of which leads to what is the easiest/fastest for the type of job. Need high-end? Take your time, increase your flash, drop your iso, increase your focal length. Want fast; open aperture, increase iso and deal with a slightly degraded image in terms of quality. Though fast doesn't always warrant the need for high-end quality so it's a pick and choose your battle type of thing.
hello brandon! Since yesterday I have been trying to pay on buymeacoffe for your action, but unfortunately my card is not accepted, despite the fact that I have received the code is verified for the payment. How can I get your share in another way? Thanks a lot, you are super! 💪
Your time and effort is much appreciated 🙌🏻.
My question is can we use the same action for 5 exposures?
Or it is more complicated?
Many thanks 🙏
Great presentation in a short timeframe.
👍
thanks so much i love thisss, one question can i use this with 5 bracket photos
What is going on? Your video on Lumenzia was the first time I saw that plug in and it's potential. Do you have a video creating the HDR action using lumenzia? I tried to do it, but was unscuccessful with getting the recording to track each step. A video on that would help out greatly! Thanks and thank you for the content.
Hey my friend,
So when I first started this channel, I used Lumenzia to merge my hdr brackets as it was faster than going through LR or Enfuse.
Over time though, people would ask me how to do the same functions in Lumenzia, but inside Photoshop. Since Lumenzia, at its basic level is luminosity masking, I figured out a way to create an action in PS that merges your brackets into one hdr image and that is what this video is for. For those who can't or don't want to buy Lumenzia but would like to merge hdr brackets.
The video before this one is showing how to use custom actions already inside Lumenzia to merge your brackets. That video (linked below) will walk you hotkey through hotkey on how to setup Lumenzia actions so that you can utilize that how you'd like.
I take 3 exposures at -2,0,+2 for my exteriors and 3 exp at -1,+1,+3 for my interiors. This action will allow you to merge thise 3 layers into one blended image. And if you wanted to do a different set of brackets, like 5 exp at 1 stop apart, you could take the same steps to blend those together using a various set of luminosity masking. I just prefer 3 exp because it's faster and the quality difference between 5 exp and 3 is negligible.
ruclips.net/video/6D3xRJ_eXn4/видео.html
So glad I stumbled across your channel, your tutorials are next-level. Thanks to you my photo game is stepping up. I'm so grateful for the knowledge you share. I'm getting the editing process down but I'm struggling hard on efficiency in a house. I'm using Godox lights and trigger too but I have to use a stand, place the light, then run back to my camera to adjust flash settings on my trigger. I'd love to be able to move through a room like you do but when I tried that, my trigger kept overriding any changes I made to my hand-held flash. Any tips on overcoming this issue?
Hey my friend, thank you for your support and for coming to the channel, I really appreciate it!
So what Godox flash and trigger are you using? I use an XPro trigger that allows me to change the settings from the trigger, but I never really use it; I just change the settings on the flash itself.
What you're saying is that you're able to change the settings on the flash, but when you go to take the shot, the settings on the flash revert back to the settings that are on the trigger?
That's interesting that that would happen and I figure it has to either be something that's in the settings, or a glitch between the 2 devices.
Let me know what you have and I'll see if I can find some information on it.
For now I'd recommend checking out this video, the guy has some solid advice that might help: ruclips.net/video/8BDrXcLbzCM/видео.html
Or if that video doesn't help I'd recommend throwing up a question in the Godox Facebook User group. There are tons of people way more knowledgeable than me who might have the answer off the top of their head: facebook.com/groups/godoxusergroup
Not sure which trigger you are using but most triggers will have an option in settings that will allow you to override the trigger settings when you change the flash setting on a flash unit. Go to menu/shoot and choose the single-person icon. The multi-person and app options will not allow you to override the trigger from the flash unit. @@BrandonWattsREP
@@curtstevens6178 Thank you for the information! I just checked my XPro trigger and indeed mine is set on the single-person icon.
Master piece! Great content like always. Thanks bro!
Thank you so much!
It's cool to see that people enjoy this so much. I really just like working on images, so it's fun to be able to share that with everyone.
Thank you my friend:)
You're quite welcome, always happy to help!
impressed - well done.
Thank you so much! Throw this action into a main action and there's no need to merge 3 exp brackets in LR or any other software anymore.
Cuts out so much time when you're able to select all 3 exposures, plus all your flash shots in LR, drag them into PS as layers and just run a single action.
Compared to having to send your 3 exps into Merge To HDR, having to wait for that, then sending as layers. That's too many steps when compounded across tens of thousands of image/layers a year.
in the action it says command Make Is not Available
Is there a big difference between the auto HDR function and this method?
This way has more control if you wanted to blend things in manually. If you blend through auto-hdr then you are forced to make adjustments to the whole image, whereas with this action you can brush in or out parts that you want over other parts. The time it takes to merge together is a lot faster as well. Since I use HDR in my flash/ambient workflow, I just select all my images including the flash shots, and let my action merge and blend everything together quickly. By using auto-hdr, you're adding another step as you have to select the files to merge into HDR, then merge through more software, before reselecting the new merged file with the flash files and drawing them in PS. That takes too much time when you're working on 100s of images.
Stunning images as always, super inspirational.
Thank you!!!
The better we all get with our work, the more we can all get paid :)
@@BrandonWattsREP I had a question about aperture, what do you recommend for a large room? Do you pick different apertures for different types of rooms?
@@brokeforever
tl;dr- I expose for my highlights which dictates the exposure triangle.
Great question. So I typically focus on the floor at the half way point of the image with an f/stop of 6.3.
This does several things all at once.
-Gives focus that isn't too shallow and is good enough for REP.
-Allows for more light to come in and hit the sensor, which means less flash power/battery power used per shot.
-Want greater/deeper focus? You'll need to increase your flash power if you increase your f/stop. Nothing wrong with this, this is why I use a 600w.
-Sticking to one aperture increases my speed in the house because then the only thing I have to worry about changing is the flash power from shot to shot.
If you have the time, nothing wrong with playing with aperture in every room. You play with f/stop, you'll have to play with other settings.
For example, want deeper focus with a higher f/stop but you only have limited battery left in your flash? You'll have to increase your iso if you don't want to sacrifice shutter speed/highlights.
Go too high in your iso and you'll be stacking layer upon layer of high iso just to make an even grainy-er image. This is why I stick with 320, only going up to 400-500iso max.
Since I stick to 320iso and shutter speed at 1/250 to capture my highlights, that leaves f/6.3 to wrangle it all in without being too shallow of focus, too grainy with iso, or too dark in the highlights.
It seems like a lot but that's the exposure triangle.
If your main focus is to have more focus (no pun intended) then you'll have to figure out what the next most important thing is for you. Less grainy of an image, better highlights, or flash power.
I'll have to make a video on the exposure triangle for real estate photography. This is a lot to take in I am sure.
@@BrandonWattsREP yes a dedicated video would be great but that makes sense, I’ve been using f8 and it’s hard to get the exposure especially with a regular beginner flash.
@@brokeforever 6.3 just makes it easier to expose with flash than anything higher than that. It's not that it's impossible to do, it just takes more time to figure out the best settings for that f/stop. You increase your f/stop you increase your flash power which also increases the probability of harsh shadows. It's just a large combinations of factors, all of which leads to what is the easiest/fastest for the type of job. Need high-end? Take your time, increase your flash, drop your iso, increase your focal length.
Want fast; open aperture, increase iso and deal with a slightly degraded image in terms of quality. Though fast doesn't always warrant the need for high-end quality so it's a pick and choose your battle type of thing.
hello brandon! Since yesterday I have been trying to pay on buymeacoffe for your action, but unfortunately my card is not accepted, despite the fact that I have received the code is verified for the payment. How can I get your share in another way? Thanks a lot, you are super! 💪
Weird that it doesn't send it to you for free. Shoot me an email and I'll send it over to you!
Brandon@definitivehdr.com