Need to get mine finished and on the dyno. Running flat tops, Mondello posiflow 4150 intake, Edelbrock heads, MSD setup, and roller cam with 531/538 230/236 @ 0.050 and 110 LSA. Should be a beast in a 64 Cutlass.
I have put a windage tray and put a FAST 2.0 EZ EFI fuel injection instead of the Q-fuel 750 and up graded to a MSD pro billet distributor and a 6AL digital box
Don Thomas with Panhandle Performance out of Amarillo, TX He is the one that built the motor He did all the work on the heads we had to put bigger springs in the heads the ones that came on the heads where not big enough for the cam i am running. The motor has a Eagle crank,scat H beam rods,Keith Black 10.5 to 1 pistons with floating pins the cam is a Comp mega mother thumper roller cam 107 Lobe Separation 102 Intake Centerline and a Pete Jackson gear drive instead of a timing chain the heads are Edelbrock rpm performance heads with Harland Sharp roller rockers and Comp push rods. It has a Milodon oil pump and a 8 quart oil pan the intake is a Edelbrock air gap dual plane manifold and I am running a electric water pump the motor was bored 30 over comes out to 461 cubic inch. the transmission going in the car is a TCI 6x 4L80e linked to a Moser Ford 9" with a Detroit Locker with 3.78 gears.
jon smith I always find it interesting that the guys who use Keith Black pistons always have great luck with them but then go onto any forum and ask if Keith Blacks would be okay for your build and all you ever get is "those hypers are junk, go forged or build an expensive grenade" haha. It always blows me away how so many people under estimate parts so often. Youd think everything but forged parts were made of tin foil with the way they talk hahaha
the car has all Hotchkis Suspension front and back Wilwood disc brakes front and back Pro comp coil over shocks in the front I had to run a CCP Hydro boost brake system because of the radical cam the motor doesn't make enough vacuum to run the vacuum booster. it has American Racing Torque Thrust 2 rims 245/45/17-17x8 rim front 295/45/17-17x11rim back Mickey Thompson ET street radial slicks back and Yokohama tires up front
@night stalker yeah belive it when I see it.. just watched a dyno of one of these "boat anchors" crank 717 ft/tq and 696 hp at 5k.. sure belive it when I see it.. you would get raked over the coals no question. Olds/ford/dodge that's were the real muscle cars are.
Zach Phelps you forgot about Buick and Pontiac and Chevy basically gm won the hp wars and had some of the best v8 of there time to bad the epa got involved
What brand valve covers are those? I have a set that was gave to me identical to those and the guy didn't know what they where for lol and have found nothing on them. My only thought is they were custom fabricated
That's a fucking beast, I bet it's all done by 5 grand too. Be a damn good puller with a little taller gears than a small block would need. Nice build. What's it run?
jdr ok The nickel content thing is just a myth, although it is true that Olds blocks are stronger than Chevy blocks, its not a significant difference, just that with Chevys theres so many 4-bolt blocks floating around that people really start underestimating the 2-bolt blocks just to talk up their own 4-bolt. Olds doesnt have that luxury (or stigma lol), we make due with our 2-bolt blocks and they work fine. Most 2-bolt Chevy blocks will work just fine as well but its a lot easier to sell rarer 4-bolt blocks and expensive main caps and girdles and forged parts if everyone believes their blocks and rotating asseblies are fragile Lol. A lot of people seriously underestimate the strength of factory parts based on hear-say from others. Olds builders run stock cast cranks up to 600 horsepower and they work fine. Chevy guys would shit a brick at the thought of it but, in all honesty its not nearly as unsafe as everyone makes it sound. Most Chevy guys will tell you stock parts "wont live above 5500rpm whatsoever" haha, its bull, but nobody wants to risk it so they buy the expensive forged stuff just to be safe. So thats the long answer haha. Sure its better to be safe than sorry but its pretty stupid to me seeing everyone flocking to fully forged rotating assemblies for street/strip builds that would be absolutely 100% safe on a cast rotating assembly Lol
***** I put all the parts that I put in the motor I could not find my cam tech sheet but if you need to know I can look it up thanks for looking at my motor
Who would want to drive a big ugly 98 or a toronado witch is a front wheel drive car and would be a waste because you would have to put big fat tires on the front of the car and I have seen rice burner cars with that set up and they look absolutely Hittites. Not to mention the chain drive on the toronado would not handle that horse power or torque so it would be the dumbest thing to put this motor in a 98 or a toronado unless you made it a rear drive car and that would take shit load of money and not feasible!
Need to get mine finished and on the dyno. Running flat tops, Mondello posiflow 4150 intake, Edelbrock heads, MSD setup, and roller cam with 531/538 230/236 @ 0.050 and 110 LSA. Should be a beast in a 64 Cutlass.
send me a link if you put a video on You tube I would like to see it.
I have put a windage tray and put a FAST 2.0 EZ EFI fuel injection instead of the Q-fuel 750 and up graded to a MSD pro billet distributor and a 6AL digital box
Don Thomas with Panhandle Performance out of Amarillo, TX He is the one that built the motor He did all the work on the heads we had to put bigger springs in the heads the ones that came on the heads where not big enough for the cam i am running. The motor has a Eagle crank,scat H beam rods,Keith Black 10.5 to 1 pistons with floating pins the cam is a Comp mega mother thumper roller cam 107 Lobe Separation 102 Intake Centerline and a Pete Jackson gear drive instead of a timing chain the heads are Edelbrock rpm performance heads with Harland Sharp roller rockers and Comp push rods. It has a Milodon oil pump and a 8 quart oil pan the intake is a Edelbrock air gap dual plane manifold and I am running a electric water pump the motor was bored 30 over comes out to 461 cubic inch. the transmission going in the car is a TCI 6x 4L80e linked to a Moser Ford 9" with a Detroit Locker with 3.78 gears.
jon smith I always find it interesting that the guys who use Keith Black pistons always have great luck with them but then go onto any forum and ask if Keith Blacks would be okay for your build and all you ever get is "those hypers are junk, go forged or build an expensive grenade" haha. It always blows me away how so many people under estimate parts so often. Youd think everything but forged parts were made of tin foil with the way they talk hahaha
Yeah I have heard that to I did not go for the hypereutectic I just got the forged pistons
the car has all Hotchkis Suspension front and back Wilwood disc brakes front and back Pro comp coil over shocks in the front I had to run a CCP Hydro boost brake system because of the radical cam the motor doesn't make enough vacuum to run the vacuum booster.
it has American Racing Torque Thrust 2 rims 245/45/17-17x8 rim front 295/45/17-17x11rim back Mickey Thompson ET street radial slicks back and Yokohama tires up front
@night stalker yeah belive it when I see it.. just watched a dyno of one of these "boat anchors" crank 717 ft/tq and 696 hp at 5k.. sure belive it when I see it.. you would get raked over the coals no question. Olds/ford/dodge that's were the real muscle cars are.
Zach Phelps you forgot about Buick and Pontiac and Chevy basically gm won the hp wars and had some of the best v8 of there time to bad the epa got involved
Good sounding motor boys! Almost identical numbers to my 410 Cleveland.
What brand valve covers are those? I have a set that was gave to me identical to those and the guy didn't know what they where for lol and have found nothing on them. My only thought is they were custom fabricated
yes they where I got them off ebay there is a guy that is making them for olds and Chevy's.
That's a fucking beast, I bet it's all done by 5 grand too. Be a damn good puller with a little taller gears than a small block would need. Nice build. What's it run?
Do you have to run a girdle on these two-bolt caps?
You can if you are going to go over 1000 hp I went with after market caps
No, since Olds blocks have a high nickel content, unlike the mush iron Chevy block are cast from
+john robert thats why chevy engines are cheaper but they arent bad engines for that
jdr ok The nickel content thing is just a myth, although it is true that Olds blocks are stronger than Chevy blocks, its not a significant difference, just that with Chevys theres so many 4-bolt blocks floating around that people really start underestimating the 2-bolt blocks just to talk up their own 4-bolt. Olds doesnt have that luxury (or stigma lol), we make due with our 2-bolt blocks and they work fine. Most 2-bolt Chevy blocks will work just fine as well but its a lot easier to sell rarer 4-bolt blocks and expensive main caps and girdles and forged parts if everyone believes their blocks and rotating asseblies are fragile Lol. A lot of people seriously underestimate the strength of factory parts based on hear-say from others. Olds builders run stock cast cranks up to 600 horsepower and they work fine. Chevy guys would shit a brick at the thought of it but, in all honesty its not nearly as unsafe as everyone makes it sound. Most Chevy guys will tell you stock parts "wont live above 5500rpm whatsoever" haha, its bull, but nobody wants to risk it so they buy the expensive forged stuff just to be safe. So thats the long answer haha. Sure its better to be safe than sorry but its pretty stupid to me seeing everyone flocking to fully forged rotating assemblies for street/strip builds that would be absolutely 100% safe on a cast rotating assembly Lol
Evan B Not a myth..Olds' blocks are harder..High nickel iron. Look it up. I agree with the rest of your reply.
What kind of heads, who did the work on them?
I put all the info on my page thanks
Hey Zach I don't know the make of the valve covers I got them off ebay a guy was making them for olds and Chevy's
*****
I put all the parts that I put in the motor I could not find my cam tech sheet but if you need to know I can look it up thanks for looking at my motor
LOL nice try, how about 411hp and 486 trq
Sure, I can see your Mopar maybe making 411h.p. Maybe..
olds 455 made 500 tq bone stock in the 60s/70s.
An engine that powerful belongs in a 98 or toronado, a cutlass what a waste.
Who would want to drive a big ugly 98 or a toronado witch is a front wheel drive car and would be a waste because you would have to put big fat tires on the front of the car and I have seen rice burner cars with that set up and they look absolutely Hittites. Not to mention the chain drive on the toronado would not handle that horse power or torque so it would be the dumbest thing to put this motor in a 98 or a toronado unless you made it a rear drive car and that would take shit load of money and not feasible!